#353

[@jpopelish]

Three suggestions. When wrapping a chain to prevent vertical split, wrap as many times as you have chain, instead of a single loop. This reduces the chances of snapping the chain. Plunge cut should be perpendicular to the tree, rather than parallel to the ground. Leave the hinge wider on the side you want to pull the tree toward, as it falls. Could have missed the maple tree.

[@fxnepilogue]

I’d agree, I’m no expert, but as far as aiming this tree, he aimed it right where it fell as far as I could tell.

[@therollingrocker672]

These are all really great suggestions.

[@chaswarren4097]

Also clean up your notch. The video shows a dutchman on the camera side which will cause the hinge to snap really early

[@wallyworld817]

Gots ta have holdin' woods! Surprised you didn't use a humboldt directional cut, no wedges? Got sky hung instead definitely the least of the 2 evils!

[@zackhendo5926]

@@wallyworld817 Why would you wedge with that much tension?

[@crosshairstare]

Terry Hale does excellent, detailed videos and has a wealth of practical knowledge, not funny or quirky at all, but very concise and well explained concepts and a lot of different scenarios... definitely a good source of info.

[@sylvianations69]

Thanks

[@falfield]

Well explained - and pleased that you gave the credit Terry Hale deserves at the end - he has a mastery of theory, clarity of expression and dry wit that are an unmatched combination. Thank You.

[@j.pvandersandt2188]

My golden rule is respected all leans tree with respect Be safe all time Look a round you and that's all saved For all your workers equipment Thanks From Woody Cut South Africa 🇿🇦

[@johnhartwick2367]

I log in Michigan everyday. Buckin billy Ray on KZbin best I've ever seen hands down.

[@gordpedersen543]

100% agreed

[@pablitoramos10]

@@gordpedersen543 1000000% agreed

[@MartinParsons-tr6wi]

No contest

[@dougreid2351]

Terry HALE is a fabulous teacher. As much as I enjoy your company, and as much as you have taught me, this is the biggest boon. Thanks!!!

[@thomasdesmond2248]

Love it Mike. Way to admit your own shortcomings and refer to someone who you believe gives great advice. That's why I like you so much and have such respect for you. God bless

[@markcrawford2]

Another great video! Put the chain around the tree with the hook on one side and hook the tractor to the other side of the tree. When you pull it allows the tree to twist off the base! Great tactic i have been using lately to overcome these.

[@gipper759]

Thanks Mike for a step by step explanation of a bore cut, sometimes just getting the basic info is good to have before getting real technical. Your vid came up when i typed in bore cut, I knew I came to the right place.

[@dougreid2351]

Nice work! Direct and honest. And linking so openly and honestly to Terry HALE was a great community service. I am liking and subscribing in part for your work and in part because you turned viewers to Terry HALE. Thanks again.

[@alanross3435]

Thanks for the link. Great idea about using the chain, will add that to my carry-all kit! A person can never learn too much! We hope you and Melissa had a fun Valentine's Day!✌🏻️

[@hubertyoung1938]

Great video bro. Thanks for sharing. Lol. Was just about to go and cut a path in my 80 acres, when I ran across this presentation. I'm glad I did. Blessings.

[@justinhebert5155]

some good advice, thank you. that undercut hinge made me nervous the whole time though! glad everything went okay

[@TheWatchmen001]

Ya me too. Don't ever want to cut past the back of your hinge.

[@kenk3102]

...Mike...thanks for a well explained video on how to cut a "leaner"....I have a big red oak on my property that needs to be cut and it is a leaner....your video gives me the confidence and the safety points to watch out for to get the job done... 🙂

[@woodcutter1742]

Glad you went with the plung cut and trigger method. I use that method even with straight trees. The fast fall helps the tree get through the tree canopy snags. I liked the chain around the tree. Food for thought leave your hinge thicker on the side you want it to fall.

[@ScottLRoyal]

GOL confirmed that plunging 90+% of my trees is a safe idea. It's the odd balls I don't plunge, like the bent over birches.

[@yokohamamike1041]

Nice job explaining the steps in bringing down that tree, Thanks!

[@williammcgilton2897]

Appreciate you taking the time to help with my thoughts on this and humble enough to share Terry... Thanks

[@eagleeye1542]

You popped out that piece of wood, and out of my mouth I said out loud man you better clean that up.. The next thing you say I'm going to clean that up... Good Man!

[@kd6836]

That’s what I did. 😆

[@hughgriffiths5837]

Great video! Good reminder of the center plunge cut before releasing it. Sometimes you can make your hinge wider on the side you want it to turn - it’s a pivot point wherein the tree will twist on the thicker side of your hinge and turn in that direction. It can help to further pinpoint and direct the path of the fell. Another point on a sawmill front - given the stress you mentioned at the beginning of the video on each side of the tree, it makes for a LOUSY saw log that will show its stress by releasing it while sawing lumber. This tree, regardless of the diameter, is best run through the splitter! Keep up the good work guys! 👊🏼

[@OutdoorsWithTheMorgans]

Agree, just wait and see though, when I split those rounds there will be 50 comments "you idiot you should have saved that for a saw log" lol. I remember first time I had a guy come here with a mill, saved a couple logs like this and the boards looked like bananas as soon as they came off the mill

[@hughgriffiths5837]

At least you know that we know, and we know that they don’t? 🤔😂🤪 lol Keep keeping on Mike! 👍🏼💪🏼

[@larrykluckoutdoors8227]

Mike, I get that on my videos also

[@steppoffaith8426]

Hugh Griffiths on a normal fell your right. But hard leaner like this gravity is in control already so smallest henge possible is key for not barber chairing.

[@jestillwell1964]

I was thinking the same about leaving the hinge wider on the far side so it would help guide the tree that direction. I could not tell if the face cut was directly in line with the lean or aiming more towards the gap.

[@slytrader]

Mike, Since watching your videos I got more curious about cutting down trees. I've watch a few videos on tree cutting and consider myself very lucking I never did a lot of tree cutting. when I was younger. This activity would of exposed me to many dangers I was not aware of, thanks.

[@zeke1eod]

You went home with same number of holes you started with, so that is a absolute win! Good information, thanks for sharing. God bless

[@rayperoni4142]

Very useful and pertinent tips. Your explanations and the way you express yourself are great and it help viewers like me to understand very much.THANKS

[@michaeldougfir9807]

Hi Mike, Personally I think you are off to a very good start. I was waiting to hear about any effort at barber chair prevention. And you did it! If I may suggest... when you take your tractor back there, try this first: take a peavey/cant hook with you. If you have nothing bigger than the LogOX then take that. Can you extend the length of the LogOX for more leverage? I just want to suggest trying to roll the tree out of the crown of the tree it fell into. So often the falling tree hits off center. If it hit a bit to the right, stand on the left. Put your tool on it and lift. Try to roll it to the right. If the description shows it should roll to the left, then stand on the right. This is what many of us do around here. If this doesn't work or seems too scary, then go for it with the tractor. I just hope you will use a longer chain or cable. If the tree flops around a lot we want it to miss you and your equipment.

[@curtisshores9243]

🤔

[@kevin_ps_144.1]

I think you probably saved my life with the advice here. Thank you!

[@calvingauthier9856]

Calvin in Kuwait dreaming about 6 acre home in Idaho. Love your video's Mike! Great information. Thank You!

[@daveyjoweaver5183]

A very good video. I live on my 8 acres of woods and have been losing many trees. Mostly oaks, red and white. I also use wood stoves and often cut fallen limbs to start and end the wood burning season. The big stuff for those cold days. Burnt quite a bit when the temps got down to 2 degrees and I have 3 stoves going. So I've run across all different kinds of learns, breaks and hollow trees. You pointed out some things that are stuck in my mind now. I am as safe as possible but how often we forget certain things. I clear an escape route always, sharp saw and the like. When you think you have things planed out anything can happen. Like the time a top dead limb, as I heard it breaking, made me not want to run since I didn't know which way it was going. Had to be a good hundred feet this old dead oak. So I hugged the tree and the 4" x 15 foot limb landed about three feet behind me. SPOOKY! My hard hat would have been like a cardboard box had it hit me. I was lucky this widow maker didn't make me one! I learned a valuable lesson. Now I let those trees trim themselves or fall down own their own. The bark falls off and the top limbs fall down and then I will cut it down and always with a friend or two who can spot me. So you made some very good and important points. My Thanks! I'm tuned in now so I'll stay in touch! Peace and a great spring! DaveyJO in Pa.

[@ccbphot11]

Good video Mr. Morgan. I have cut thousands of trees over the last 30 years in an almost identical manner as you demonstrated save one detail. I never thought to put a chain around the trunk. The instant I saw you do it I thought 'Holy Cow! Why didn't I ever think of that? It's so obvious!" Thank you for the video and the new pointer.

[@TruckTaxiMoveIt]

I've seen chains pop under load ...

[@marlinmcgehee9789]

@@TruckTaxiMoveIt I've done it. Make at least 2 wraps.

[@michaelgallagher380]

I am a million miles away from being any good at felling trees, but the very first one I tried to cut down, I failed to pay any attention to what the wind was doing. It can have a huge impact on where the tree might land. Looks like you had a calm day there. Thanks for all your great vids!

[@firebird77clonefirebird89]

Wind is a huge factor

[@waynelewis881]

Thank you for this video, Mike. I lost a very good friend to a barber chair. He was cutting alone, so we’ll never know exactly what happened, but he was an intelligent and experienced woodsman. I know we all have our moments of feeling invincible, but we’re not.

[@andrewerickson9664]

Not if you have a 395 Husqvarna, that saw cuts fast enough through no barber chair

[@markfowler6276]

Wow, sorry to hear that. I have a bunch of leaders and older dead trees it keeps me on my toes.

[@michaelreeves8340]

@@andrewerickson9664 🤪🤪🤪🤪

[@archiescott2229]

@@andrewerickson9664 it helps

[@SmileyDN]

Thanks from Australia, you’re info keeps people alive, don’t stop sharing your knowledge 👍

[@chesterlauck734]

Mike, having found your channel last evening and enjoying it very much, I happened on this one today and I must say that you did a very good job bring up some very important points. As a saw instructor for wildland sawers, I can say there will always be the comments that include too much hinge, plunge cut too high or low, too much wood left in the trigger (which is easy to realize) when making your plunge cut and the trigger fails prematurely. Thanks again for pointing out some very important points in your video. My only comment would be to keep your notch as clean as possible and be careful with overcutting it, it can change the entire dynamic of how the tree performs. Keep the videos coming

[@Killinit33]

And much misinformation

[@mikeallenma78]

@@Killinit33 Not gonna elaborate? Or, just picking vids and comments to spout off?

[@douglas9607]

Terrific video. I had watched Terry Hale's just before watching your's. Terry was good classroom theory stuff and your's was practical application. Great!!!! Thank you, Mike

[@garybenedict3673]

Mike (clap) one of your best videos the chain is a great idea it’s also a safety factor if it barberchairs prematurely and cherry tends to it protects you if the fibers let go at operator level thank you and be safe my son.

[@jestillwell1964]

This is a false safety measure. You need to take into account what the break point of the chain is and try to calculate the weight of the tree and the force that will be exerted on the chain. You will only be able to guess at this. He said there were dead limbs high up, but it looked like the trunk had plenty of moisture in it. The last thing I would want is peices of steel flying at my head faster than I could blink.

[@nateperagallo8611]

@@jestillwell1964 Gary had a point. He didnt say it was good what he did, he just said it was his best video....which leaves in question the content quality of the rest of the videos lol.

[@balanced4harvest552]

@@jestillwell1964 I lost a cousin from a chain snapping and hitting him on the head while pulling with his tractor. The safer way is to attach the chain to cause it to roll off the stump. But if there's too much hinge left it's a problem. Since it was NoT a Veneer Bolt it could have been notched to change its direction of fall to avoid hanging up, causing it to rotate slightly on the stump.

[@wilmarh1973]

Yes, thank you Mike, for those tips you mentioned I wouldn't have even considered some if those tips like the plunge cut, very good tip to do 🤔👏❤😊

[@douglas1391]

Kudos for the Terry Hale recommendation. He has the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Learned more about technique from him than I did in felling school.

[@kenmarchlenski4477]

You're a good teacher. Thank you!

[@cheaphomesteading]

it’s amazing how many professionals watch KZbin videos about how to cut downs trees and comment negatively. Great video

[@treeguyable]

I comment a lot, sometimes just to share a different angle, trying not to be negative, been at it, climbing and running the business for 30 yrs, several hurricanes, thousands of trees, and I try to learn something from these guys who haven't done a 20 th of what I have, I don't even call myself a professional, just scared, and slow, methodical, kept me and my guys safe for decades. If I show up to someones job, and think something dangerous is being performed, I'll jump in with some quick opinion, don't want to see anyone get hurt, prop. damage.

[@nateperagallo8611]

Ya know, just maybe its because they see someone doing it wrong and don't want others do the same and get hurt. More amazing is how many people have a youtube channel and suddenly become tree experts just because they can make money with videos. Why make a how to video when you don't know how to?

[@OutdoorsWithTheMorgans]

@@nateperagallo8611, I'm guessing you missed the part when I said "this is not a how to video" lol. I love how the "experts" are quick to criticize yet offer nothing. It cracks me up, so many people in the tree business believe in their head they are the best in their profession. Yet truth be told there are hacks in every trade. I have seen 20 year dozer operators that could barely hit the ground with the blade. Same goes for every profession.

[@uMpzZ26e03]

Thanks for sharing. I don't know almost anything about falling trees but for my reference, this procedure has possible improvement: 1) the horizontal front cut itself was way too deep. It had to be much more precise so the miter cut and horizontal cut meet together. 2) falling tree direction maybe could be controlled by somewhat larger hinge on the side we wish it to go more, if tree was healthy. However in this rotten core case that would be real gambling and probably not particularly safe to count on. 3) the chain around the trunk was really a good decision, although with rotten tree there was no guarantee. So the author's comment "run from that tree" is valuable as pure gold. 4) The decision of hinge width, as perfecty explained in video, was a life savior in this case. Generally this example is not exactly the typical falling of a leaner, particularly because of rotten core complication and other tree obstacle.

[@steveperry1344]

i'm sittin here watching and like i was right there with ya,my heart was racing a bit. tree cutting is always dangerous work. we were shown the bore cut method but i never cared for it or used it. retired now so i just watch you guys on youtube. be safe out there, steve

[@davidsprocket5141]

A little tip, on trees that have a thick bark (big Ash) or just to be certain that the backstrap area is solid I take a vertical slice of the bark off of the tree where my release cut will be. This lets me see exactly how much holding wood there is as I cut out to the backstrap. I release the backstrap with a cut from the tip of the bar (standing back) at a point just below the bore cut, this is so the saw won't catch on the falling tree and go for a flip in the air. Good link , I have watched all his videos.

[@kenbroughton9743]

Thanks for the video Mike. Good idea about the chain or strap...I've never done that, but will the next time. I have only used the bore cut method for the first time last year. It worked fine. I was from the city 30 years ago and had never cut down trees. When I bought a Husky chainsaw back then (still using it ), the safety instructional manual gave directions to take down leaners, and I have used that method for years very succesfully. They advise to make a 'double notch' sort of intersecting each other with the point facing the direction you want to fall the tree. Then do your felling cut (an inch or so above bottom of hinge) The manual related that doing this 'double hinge' will allow the tree to start falling 'slowly' to give you time to get out of the way. I found this to be true every time. I wonder if anyone else out there has used this method? If so, please comment. Perhaps the bore method is better.??? I also wonder Mike, if you had left a little more hinge on the far side and not much on your side, if the tree would have twisted right missing the maple? I have used this method and found it can really help changing a trees desired direction. Keep up the videos and keep safe. And like Columbo..."just one more thing sir!"" You said the first thing you do is clear an escape route. That's the second thing I do, and the first is to say a prayer for safety. God Bless!

[@suziehartwright]

Great info thank you! 😉👍 And thanks for referring the other video.

[@timeric1272]

Some wedges in the bore cut might have helped push it where you wanted it to go before you cut the strap. Im amazed at the difference they make.

[@chicovenom9526]

being honest and humble counts a lot ... specially cutting trees Thanks for the tips sr..

[@mfsolutions]

I have trained as a logger by the swedes and softwoods are so much easier to cut than hardwoods. I like the way you take your time and show folks how to do it right. One thig I could add (others may have already made the comment but here is my 2cents... your hinge controls the direction of the fall when you do your plunge cut make sure you are equally offset from your hinge or it will not fall straight... you hung up on the maple because you lost the far side of your hinge in the plunge cut. You can actually rotate a straight softwood 30 degrees by cutting the hinge on the side away from the direction you want it to turn. So here cutting the hinge on the near side would turn it away from the maple. Great video and I love the idea of the strap to prevent barber chairing (chains and chainsaws don't mix!) and the fact you checked for widow makers (rotten limbs).

[@josephgonzalez6233]

That's how I always do it. Control your hinge. And I do cherry all the time

[@jessel8833]

agreed. I wouldn't have done a plunge cut. Wedges can help direct a tree if need be, as well. In this situation, after putting in front cut on side exactly where you want to fall, then go to back & start cutting on that opposite side. Leaving a little more holding wood on side of tree you want it to pull to, you can achieve the drop you want. Regardless, good to share as much info with other folks, so if they're not using a professional, they have some good extra knowledge provided ahead of time.

[@russellbowman8051]

GREAT VALUABLE SAFETY INFORMATION!!👍👊

[@sponge850bobette7]

Thank you for the video. I noticed the roots and wondered if they are also a danger factor. After seeing this I would of walked away. I do not have as much experience as you do. Thank’s.

[@lambda4931]

Really good info. The chain is a good idea. Good explanation of why the back cut needs to be a little high. Thanks

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Hey Mike, very informative video. Check out who you was referring too and I have watched lot of his videos several times, always good to keep fresh on what can happen out there. You all keep putting out the good videos, WEEYALL (yes it is a word down here) will keep watching them. Thanks for sharing.

[@andrewpardoe7269]

Great video I have lots of severe lean trees on my land with potential hang ups going to think twice now before I tackle the big ones start off small to perfect the technique!

[@toddbrewer8215]

I have found sharpening every time I fuel increases chain life. The chain states cooler and your day goes faster.

[@darrenschmidt3479]

todd Brewer I disagree

[@toddbrewer8215]

@@darrenschmidt3479 Just out of curiosity why?

[@darrenschmidt3479]

As long as you Sharpen it right and don’t cut dirty wood you should only have to file once or twice a day every time you fuel up would just file off metal that’s already sharp and waste lots of time

[@toddbrewer8215]

@@darrenschmidt3479 I only take enough metal off to fine tune the edge. Takes about 2 minutes to touch up a 20 inch bar. But the time a super sharp saw saves makes that 2 minutes back real easy. I don't want to discredit your opinion though. Your reasons are valid.

[@darrenschmidt3479]

Yeah I gotcha seems like we have differences I run a 36” with a full comp or full skip so it would take longer, and typically I’m in fir or cedar so it’s not to hard on chains so they don’t dull up very fast

[@RBnPA]

Thank you for your video! I’ve been searching for videos on dangerous leaning trees especially the ones that look easy. I have one similar but up top the branches grew 90 degrees from the lean. Initially I thought it would be simple but now I’m not so sure. From your video I realize that you must take all factors into consideration. Thanks again!

[@user-yi4fv3qw3q]

Great job Mike. Felling trees takes time and practice. It's very dangerous. Love the videos

[@davidbrown1672]

Great video. Picked up a few lessons.

[@lawrencebarwick4085]

I wish we all had the chance to chat about this, or have a "tractor" to help, some of us have been winging it for 26 years...thats life!

[@treeguyable]

First couple were head scratchers, but after 9 hurricanes and thousands of these, 30 yrs, just another tree, but they are way more fun 60 ft up, with a stihl 066 in your hand, over a shed, and a, fence, and a pool near by.

[@kevinbyrne4538]

I volunteer to maintain a public park that's full of hung-up trees and leaners, so I'm always looking for videos like this one. Thanks for recording, editing, and posting it.

[@danmcleod1360]

Very informative, good watch, thank you.

[@JohnWhite-si4xc]

worked at it a long time 40 years with my grandfather and great grandfather and father

[@dmacwv]

Great idea using the chain. Coincidentally, I could’ve used that this morning! I had a decent sized twisted leaner that had barberchaired about 10’ up. Fell where I wanted, but snarled up some good firewood rounds.

[@eliahjannicky819]

Good video Mike. One suggestion for any tree, leaning or otherwise, is to peel off some bark and sound the tree with your axe or pounder before making any cuts. Listening to the sound can help determine if the tree may be rotten inside. I do this where the hinge will be as a visual as well, looking for cracks etc. But lots of good safety tips for doing a dangerous job that a lot of people underestimate.

[@mariolofaro8330]

Glad I found your video. I have a tree at work that has three of those four hazards. Actually four if you count the brand new fencing near it.

[@Mikepower1978]

Man you need to improve 3 important aspects. 1/ your scarf. You had an overcut on the horizontal. This weakened your hinge in two ways. Firstly the overcut went half way through your vertical holding wood in your hinge. Secondly the tree HAD to pop its hinge as it came over and compressed in the overcut. Get those hinges spotless clean man! 2/ Take more care and accuracy on your bore cut. Make sure you have a perfectly even hinge of appropriate size. If your trying to put language into a heavy leaner of this size you might leave 2" of hinge wood. But that varies infinitely from Tree to Tree, situation to situation. Also cut out more of the bore to your back strap. You will get a faster, cleaner, gentler and more controlled release. If your strap is through the tension wood proper you only need 2" on a tree that size. 3/ release your bored and cut tree by cutting your back strap BELOW your bore. Or else expect to have your saw taken out of your hands one day. Also gives better release properties. Good on you for trying man, but be careful if you havnt had a master cutter teaching you. 🙏👍

[@robertfudge9745]

I was going to say that it's bad set up

[@1974jrod]

Yup his back cut should have been a couple inches higher than the notched cut, and cut perpendicular to the lean of the tree. That tree easily could have slid backwards the way he cut. Hang ups suck too. He should have cleared the way first. Definitely a novice for sure.

[@t.d.186]

Worst notch cut I saw on 100 YT clips.

[@thunderpooch]

Oh good grief, there is no perfect way because unless you scan the tree, all your supposed perfect techniques could backfire because you're all cutting blind. You're all assuming what kind of wood is in any given tree. And this one went about as tame as it could have. The fact is there are no experts. The "know it all's" are often the ones fatally injured Sure, you can always improve your technique so you give yourself the best chance, but some trees have rot and weak spots and a so called "perfect cut" could actually result in a more dangerous situation than what an amateur would have done

[@thunderpooch]

Always be prepared to react and run where you need to. So many experts move at a snail's pace and end up hurt because they're shocked that a tree isn't behaving according to their "perfect techniques" Hubris kills Anyone sail? It's like claiming your boat shouldn't capsize if you turn in properly and trim your sail 🤦 once again, what's occuring in the water and in the air can't always be addressed with perfect techniques. You have to adjust in real time and be ready for seemingly odd events

[@joequillun7790]

I'm a novice, and appreciate your time and knowledge making this video. Thanks a bunch.

[@jukeseyable]

as a novice the only thing you can take from this is the theory. that is some of the sloppiest cutting ive seen in a long time, the face cut was badly undercut. and the back cut angled and sloping. ad a saw as blunt as this kept him in the danger zone. how not to do it

[@mikeallenma78]

@@jukeseyable Just went to watch your vid on the matter, but there isn't one.

[@larrycainjr]

I know this isn’t a current video but it’s well done! Thanks, Mike!

[@charleslopez2914]

Nice to see a video by someone who knows what they are doing for a change. The one thing I might have done in addition would have been a vertical plunge cut to see if there was rot and how bad. If the tree is really rotten you have to nibble away slowly making the undercut to keep from getting pinched. As another commenter said, if you cut the hinge thin or off on the one side as it's starting to go sometimes you can turn them a little extra.

[@spiritintheforest]

Also consider using a Humboldt notch which puts the notch in a reverse triangle below the hinge instead of in the same plane of the cut. Significantly reduces the risk of the tree kicking back as it falls. In this case it would have also ensured that the base of the tree landed on the ground instead of hanging on the stump when the tree hung up on that other tree.

[@u.sonomabeach6528]

I was thinking Humboldt as well with a bore back cut

[@michaelkokiri5962]

Great video with lots to learn. Thank you.

[@phaedrus6891]

Thanks for this. I am still never cutting down anything like this ever. Saw way too many accidents here on KZbin lol.

[@bdmenne]

Thanks for the good cut and recommendation!

[@ForgottenHillbilly]

I was really surprised to see you put that chain around the tree. A lot of people don't know that. I was a logger for quite some time and I have ran a saw since I was 13 yrs old. I have ran into a lot of people who really need to learn a few things that think they know well enough. There are just so many things one has to consider before you sink a saw into a tree but for someone like myself it becomes such second nature or more like instinct without much thought. After all these yrs it still amazes me in a way how something like this can become second nature to us. That being said no one is ever too good to get their killing! One word of advice though if I may give it. Any time you are worried about a barber chair you might try a bit longer chain and wrap it multiple times over a decent little span. Make sure it has good hooks and it's not a bad idea to put a load boomer on it. (Make sure it's no wimpy chain also) Also sometimes on your felling cut you can come in a little high but on a sharp angle. That gives you something to help hold the tree from kicking back so fast. It's never a guarantee as I have saw trees do some crazy things but it just might make that difference. Of course this isn't something i'd recommend in certain situations and especially if you plan to use a felling wedge or wedges. As they say we never get too old to learn but seems like you are doing pretty well. Be safe and happy cutting!

[@bombadiltreefarms314]

Excellent, excellent demonstration and discussion, especially your comments about discovering a rotten center. The only time I lost a saw to a falling tree was sticking my bar into a large, heavily leaning tree to initiate the bore cut. Soon as the bar tip entered heart rot the saw kerf collapsed pinching my saw. My textbook perfect rear holding strap then immediately ripped down the stump into the top of a large root allowing the tree to fall. As always, I had a clear escape route prepared and safely got out of the way. Not so for my beautiful $700 saw. Before cutting the notch, I suspected that the center was rotten and should have followed your advice to walk away from such trees. Thanks for such a valuable video.

[@kevinmartin894]

You need to work on lining up the scarf cuts better

[@kevincerce5056]

Hey, x New Yorker here, from Long Island, my wife and I retired to S Fla in 2015, I have the same tree problems except for one thing, all palm trees on a half-acre of land. By the way, this video was published on our 44th anniversary.

[@johnreinburg859]

Mike, thanks for excellent information concerning the cut of a tree leaning.

[@johnkomosa4089]

Beautiful Cherry. I am sure it will produce some beautiful lumber as I have sawed much smaller with success. Love that Black cherry. Thanks for the tips. I am a better sawer now. Adding to my knowledge tool box= increased safety. Safety #1 Thanks

[@timwerner7066]

Thanks for making this Video Mike. I watched it and then one you recommended to watch in the link below. Very informative and needed for those who drop trees. I am one of those people and have a leaner that I've been avoiding to cut because of this reason. I have never made a bore cut before but will now practice on other trees with this method until I am comfortable with it. I will then drop that leaner knowing how to proceed. Thanks again Mike. I appreciate your videos.

[@V3ND10L4]

Thanks for the video. One of the better videos I've seen. And thanks for the link to the other video!

[@millermikeman]

Excellent video, keep them coming

[@troyeager8877]

I just cut a leaner down tonight. I wish I would of seen this before. I did my notch and back cut above. But I've never done a plunge cut. Chain idea was nice too.

[@justanamerican9024]

As a logger/forester for 50yrs, here is what I noticed: it takes around 2500 large trees cut to get to a level of 'professional' feller. The trick is to live through cutting the first 2500 to get to that point. Training is very important, luck sure helps.

[@jonsealartist]

I’m😅😅😅😅

[@jonsealartist]

Q

[@77ragingbull]

Hey, you did a good job on this video. you were honest about your personal experience and in the end the tree did what you expected. I hope you dont mind if i suggest that if you are in an area where you have to hike in.. Use a tow strap and shackle to wrap the tree. they are much lighter to carry than a chain and typically much stronger than a large ratchet strap. I would have probably gone with a h Humboldt style face cut aimed a bit more in the direction of intended fall but what you did worked just fine. Like i said before. Good video! Good explanations and thanks for not being just another Jack wagon with a saw. Nice work!

[@brucealvarez9263]

Excellent video Mike. Funny that you mentioned the saw wasn't as sharp as you believed since I had thought the same thing just a few seconds before that text showed up. Not kicking the chips like I've seen your saws do before. Shows just how easily they can become less sharp even when you are careful to stay out of the dirt. I watched Terry's video, you are right, very instructive. I've bookmarked his KZbin page for future viewing/reference.

[@randyscrafts8575]

Fantabulous job. I have a heavy leaner about 18"-20" diameter at chest height 100' ish tall with a rotted spot at ground level to about 18" high and 16" wide. Fortunately the direction of fall won't hurt anything if it goes on it's own. Cut level sounds solid but the barber chair is scary. My guess is the rot goes further. I cut down another tree that had about 3" of solid parameter but the inside was completely rotted away. That tree was 23" diameter. Have before and after pictures of it. Rotted trees are scary. The whole thing can come apart like the world trade center taking you with it. Another one had over 30' length of center rot. It split and partially collapsed under it's own weight half way up as it was falling. Here's a arborist trade tip: If the tree looks pregnant somewhere it's probably rotted inside at that point and somewhat above and below that point. Strongly recommend an experienced arborist remove those for ya. You may spend a couple grand but you'll still be alive and unharmed.

[@davidwisowaty1914]

Should mention the Dutchman and how it affects direction of the fall along with the holding wood for the hinge.

[@Mikzone-zb6jk]

There's a Dutchman in that cut..

[@horstspiess1744]

@@Mikzone-zb6jk Z

[@simontrangmar4537]

Wow - that was amazing. Thank you very much for sharing this. Simon / Australia

[@goerizal1]

i learned quite a lot here. thanks.

[@f9qo]

Appreciate your vid. Maybe it was already mentioned, but I was taught to trip the holding strap from slightly below the line of your back cut. It removes or minimizes the possibility of an irregular split grabbing your saw as the tree starts to go over. I guess that can happen.

[@johnrobertson7583]

The reason to employ the tactic of releasing the trigger above your borecut, is if you are in the habit of using wedges...as are all wildland sawyers...you wont damage them.

[@splittinnstuff6571]

Good job, worked out pretty good. Only thing id like to say is that I prefer to cut the strap with the tip of my bar, that way I can stand alittle further away. These heavy leaners are some scary stuff

[@AvgJoe0007]

Good way to lose your leg with a kickback.

[@splittinnstuff6571]

@@AvgJoe0007 if you dont know how to run a saw properly. Cutting with the tip isnt bad at all

[@AvgJoe0007]

@@splittinnstuff6571 Ya, but 99% of people watching these are inexperienced amateurs. They will take your advice, use the top instead of the bottom of the bar tip, and sever an artery. Safety first. Of course I have done exactly what you do. But I just don't recommend it to others.

[@splittinnstuff6571]

@@AvgJoe0007 I do hear you, but advanced tree felling isnt really for amateurs anyway. Just doing the plunge cut can kick pretty hard, moreso than cutting the strap with the tip Id say

[@jerrygmarchantmarchant141]

Have had great success using chains and come along

[@Richard-mz7qu]

It may not have gone a s planned, but no one is hurt and the resolution is doable. thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[@domenicoperrella3501]

Richard A Maybe, but he doesn't show us how he resolved the danger he created. We don't really know if he pulled the tree loose safely and someone doing what he did after watching this video would have a more dangerous tree than he started with and no real guidance on how to get the tree free from the other one. The hinge is still attached. If you pull with the tractor, will you succeed in tearing that hinge or will you need to come back and try to partially cut the hinge? If the latter and you don't know what you're doing a whole lot better than I do, you can't really be sure what will happen when you cut into that hinge. Source: I'm an idiot and tried something similar once. The tree was under a lot of torque from a large branch sticking off to one side. When I cut through the stump end the rest of the tree swung off of the tree out was hung on and I had an 18" diameter battering ram coming at me. Next thing I knew, the tree and I, as well as my saw and helmet were all in new places, I had no idea how the tree managed to pivot to get where it ended up and-miraculously-the moron (me) was totally uninjured. So, I learned a bit about the dangers of cutting trees that have talked with other trees. I won't be doing that again.

[@mightyconker3903]

Noones hurt for now. That things still out there

[@regsparkes6507]

Mike, if you're going to use a tractor,.make it the '55 and a long chain!

[@426superbee4]

OR A BULLDOZER ON EM

[@slpip]

I am not a tree professional but better than most pros, you too. If I want to drop any dangerous tree orientation to prevent barber chair and back kick, I would use a rope with a wrench to pull the tree in the drop direction. I would consider the height of the cutting position on the tree. To drop a leaning tree like this, there are two drop directions, front drop or side drop depending on the drop space. You provided good information even better than any tree pros. Thanks.

[@jeffery19677]

ALWAYS have a chain file in your kit to fit your saw. Then you can take 5 minutes and sharpen when you see that your saw is dull.. Better than that , Sharpen your saw with a couple of licks with the file before you go to the woods.

[@jimm_kirkk728]

Great comment on the wrap of chain above the cut. The excess could have been wrapped around and tightened with a load binder. That technique works well with a good strong rope too, fairly thick 3/4 inch or greater, either nylon braid or manila. It also is a good technique to use if pulling on the tree prior to cutting down. The bore cut works but on smaller diameter trees (8 inch or less) a bore cut can be hard to start properly, so wrapping above the cut is a smart and safe method to use.

[@rtoguidver3651]

Trees are unpredictable, it doesn't always go according to plan..

[@keithshwalbe6981]

Helpful refreshing honesty dear fellow.

[@vanhelsing8776]

The very first thing I would have done was have someone with me just in case something went wrong.

[@andrewmacintosh2613]

I'm guessing you ain't an arborist. Small tree. No hazards around. If that tree were to fall on you...you most likely don't have experience. But if you think its dangerous to fell the tree... Then don't do it alone!

[@pilottbaldwin]

Excellent video! I’ve learned a lot!

[@SlotCarRacerOhio]

Great video Mike. Although I will probably never run into a tree in this bad of a condition, I was wondering--- what would you do if you did not have tractors to fall back onto? Thanks, Charlie

[@ComfyBe]

Probably have a pro tree feller cut the tree down.

[@davidwyby]

Pro fallers have trucks for cutting those, but they’re dangerous no matter what.