Panic Mode Day 36

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[@ellesmerewildwood4858]

I've been repairing and restoring classic auto instruments for 40 some years and you did exactly what I would have done on those gauge dial dots. As for the straight line, what I normally do in these cases is to use a water based matt paint and the toothpick just like you did on the dots. Thin down the paint so it has a nice flow then apply the paint to the line with the toothpick being as careful as you can. If you go a little astray, don't worry, let the paint fully dry then go back with sharp exacto blade and carefully pick off the bits you went off the line, being water based paint it will be easy to 'scratch' the excess white paint off the black background without damaging the black. I also notice there's a bit of fade on the black part of the dial where the dial is exposed to light through the lenses. I overcome that with a very light coat or two of clear coat MATT spray which evens out the finish. That might all be a lot of trouble for you to go to but that's what I've always done to restore dials in that sort of condition and they always come up beautiful. I watch all your videos but I don't do body work, engines, gearboxes or transmissions, I do instruments, so most of the the time I don't have anything of relevance to contribute in the comments other than the rooster. Make sure the speedo mainshaft is spinning freely and check if the speedo has an oiler, some of the old speedo did and some didn't. That poor old speedo needs some love and lube too. Most of the metal frame speedos of that era had the oiler because the frame itself was the bearing. I've got several AC speedo here and only one has the oiler. Strange because all Stewart Warner metal frame speedo has the oiler. They stopped using the oiler when they changed to a sintered bronze bearing. If there's no oiler, I would take the speedo apart and clean and relube the mainshaft which would mean recalibration but you won't be able to do that so you can still oil the mechanism from under the magnet by adding a few drops of oils as you spin the shaft which you can do bin spinning the speedo cable with a drill. Anyway, sorry about the wall of writing, I hope you can find something of value there.

[@ElderlyIron]

I appreciate it, not only for me, but for the others who may come by it as well.

[@burlatsdemontaigne6147]

The legend that is... Mr. Cunningham! *Smacks jukebox*

[@xcop4511]

I never get tired of watching Jeff do stuff... xCop

[@ImpalamansGarage]

That's going to be the best NAPCO truck in the nation.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

That Electoral voting process is the best !

[@theda850two]

Everyone loves it when a plan comes together! :) ❤

[@DanEBoyd]

Remain calm, all is well!

[@rodmacisaac5963]

Thanks Jeff 😎👍

[@MrJim0823]

Thanks Jeff

[@darrinfry2251]

I want to see the test drive.Let's go jeff😊

[@wolvesone]

at least those gauges did not have radium paint like aircraft gauges did

[@GrandsonofKong]

Fan Sensor idea..how about and "tee" off the Radiator Drain Bung? Should be near enough to the Return Hose to get an decent temp? 🤔

[@glenharper3136]

Thanks for the video.

[@Kickinpony66]

I was thinking, when you mentioned laying down Hush Mat on the dash (when you were getting ready to install the ignition switch); "Will the Hush Mat silence his cursing, if he slips with the tool?" 😉😉

[@JE-hm7jw]

go Man go !

[@danwesterberg3956]

can we get a Tony update when you get a chance? thanks

[@J.n.A.1993]

THERE you are! Okay me watch video now. :)

[@user-hs5eh8tg9u]

If you tape cardboard over the fins, you can avoid bending them and then having to straighten them later.

[@ElderlyIron]

That was under the fan and shroud. This is the one with the fan and shroud. The other radiator was stand alone and a separate fan. I'll get to useless shrouds with electric fans later!

[@donley8416]

I put my tee were temperature sending unit went and put relay on rad surport

[@Gordonseries385]

👍 🐓

[@user-qc5mz8fc7x]

What’s up Jeff? Computa trouble

[@cleroyster2610]

Do you have any kids??