PART 13 - Sump & Release Valves - How to Build a CB Performance 2017cc Builder’s Choice VW Engine

Here I'm attaching the slim line CB Performance oil sump and the two oil pressure release valves. This was filmed a little out of sequence as I was waiting to solve my push rod tube problems that are shown in the previous clip.

[@chrisbegger8684]

I stumbked across your vids, and I am hooked! you're like the English version of EZGZ, lots of rambling, a bit of story telling, but overall, great info, and like GZ, you don't edit out struggles and mistakes, you show us how to work around them. Keep up the good work, and I look forward to more cool English names for things like " Jubilee Clip" for a hose clamp.

[@aircooledanything2415]

Hahahahaha. That's a compliment and a half. I'm honoured. I'll be sure to keep the starnge local names for parts a coming.

[@darrells56]

I believe it was in the instructions with the CB oil pump , the spring and piston beside the oil pump are not to be used with a full flow system. Only install the front one or flywheel end.

[@gregoryperkins2180]

Im putting together a turbo 2387 here in florida. i will be running the cb double pass pump with a drysump tank and 3 oil coolers. 2 coolers on the pump's first pass with a filter , then to the oil tank. out of the 8quart tank to the bearings. the 3rd 16 pass oil cooler with a fan will come off the stock location halfway back on the case then back into the engine for cam and lifter cooling through the cam center bearing. they engine could go as much as 500 horses and it will take good oil to keep it together. All the fans will be controlled by a single adjustable thermostat put into the fins on the 1st oil cooler.

[@aircooledanything2415]

Man that sounds amazing. What a setup. The cooling alone is monster job, BUT you gotta keep that baby cool right? Especially in Florida.

[@gregoryperkins2180]

@@aircooledanything2415 yea vw's are are clearly the cold weather king. even the buses are great in the snow. where i live the coldest winter day is you summer day. cant really add much to the air cooling except keeping hot air out of the engine bay. this means keeping turbo heat out. the exhaust side of the turbo is outside while the carburetor is inside. for those cold winter days on warmup the thermostat will leave the fans off. good job on your build. ive learn much.

[@charliemessenger6537]

It’s a moot point now but you can get thinner nylok nuts. That and a thin SS washer can really help when you’re short on threads. Another really handy tool set is a 1/4” female ratchet handle with multiple bits (flat, Phillips, Allen’s, Torxs). Good for tight spots like the jubilee clamp. Gotten me out of a lot of tough spots. Definitely a thermal bypass valve on the oil cooler, especially in UK climate.

[@aircooledanything2415]

All great information and definitely a good idea to get a female ratchet. On the list.

[@masbeetleboy9169]

This motor is going into a bus? Then use an extra, external oil cooler/thermostat/fan combo for sure. I would suggest this for a bug but Iwould see it as a must for a bus.

[@aircooledanything2415]

That's exactly what my friends are saying, and that's the plan for sure.I have an Atomic Cooler lined up and a thermostat.

[@aircooledanything2415]

I can see a comment from Mike Hammer in my notifications, but for some reason unknown to me it's not showing up here. I see you have sent a link to the Gene Berg oil pressure release oil pump cover. We ird that you send that as I already bought one last week. Mainly because fo the oil line routing issues I'm currently having with the moustache bar.

[@mikehammer4546]

Don’t know why links don’t show up but the Gene Berg FF oil pump cover has a oil pressure relief built in. Once the oil temp comes up to the correct temp the bypass opens up. This protects the external oil filter and dog house oil cooler when the oil is too thick.

[@aircooledanything2415]

@@mikehammer4546 Thanks Mike. Yep I got one and I;ve had to modify it a bit - tap the 3/8 NPT a bit deeper (for clearance) and open up the oil entry (on the cover) to match the CB pump. Not got it bolted on yet. That post will follow soon.

[@doubled398]

Geneburg did all the testing back in the day and he claims he found the stock oil cooler system to work better than any exterior cooler. Also no oil cooler is going to control head temperatures. He also wasn't a fan of gauges nothing beats a sensor and a light for oil temp and pressure. Sensor temp can be checked on your stove with a thermometer and some boiling water. But at the end of the day the best way is the way that works best for you.

[@aircooledanything2415]

Gene Berg was a true legend - ahead of his time. I’m a huge fan of keeping things simple and stock. Which is why this engine is a bit of a mystery to me 😂. There is so much conflicting information online about the best way to approach it.

[@bedlamite42]

If you keep the oiling system in the stock configuration, Gene Berg was right. However, if you do Bob Hoover's oil system mods that supply much more oil to the heads, it cools the heads down and lubricates the valves better, but since that heat is transferred to the oil, it also requires additional cooling. I've seen enough that every engine I build will have HVX mods, extra oil returns from the valve covers, and an external oil cooler and thermostat.

[@bedlamite42]

Didn't realize this was for a bus. Definitely use an external oil cooler (Setrab), bypass thermostat, and oil filter. Did you use the CB 2242 camshaft? 248 is too much duration for a bus motor, you may find it's sluggish at low rpm. I would have recommended an Engle FK-65 (236) with more lift from 1.4 rockers (.478")

[@aircooledanything2415]

Yeah it’s a 248 degree duration cam - 2242. Sluggish at low revs is no good. That’s a disaster if that’s the case. I spoke extensively with the guys at CB and this is the setup they recommended. Damn.