Part 4 - How to Rebuild a Cummins 12 Valve 5.9L Diesel Engine - Cylinder Head and Crank

We'll install the crankshaft and cylinder head on our Cummins 6bt 12 valve diesel engine. This engine is being built for installation into a Chevrolet Suburban.
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[@specforged5651]

I love how your always ahead of the “negative comments.” Just goes to show you all of the dough bags on here these days. They always know more about it even though they probably don’t even know what half of this even is! Thanks for these videos.. good work! I really enjoy rebuilding these engines and seeing how other people do as well. No matter how many times I’ve done it, there’s always something useful or a trick to pick up each and every time. Thanks again!

[@aaronsmith8495]

Excellent work sir. More in-depth than most of us will ever need, and great job of paying attention to detail. Well done!

[@steelblackface]

Love working on these motors. I see a lot of these in the marine industry that I work in. In fact, I had to do a head job on one of these in a few days/weeks.

[@RacinJacin392]

Awesome videos. Thanks for posting them. BTW it's a myth that a straight extension changes torque. People like to use torque sticks as a example 'proving' that they do, but it is an apples to oranges comparison. Basically a static VS dynamic comparison. I digress. Thanks again for taking the time I will definitely refer to these videos when I tackle my refresh!

[@billmyers8572]

Super informative. Its like having a factory cummins repair manual without having to read it!! Thanks

[@Dover665E]

Great job. Good presentation and camera skills.

[@missingremote4388]

Much skill & a job well done.

[@keishagarcia2441]

Great video, keep up the good work.

[@billvadei9027]

Cheers bro. Nice video.

[@Driven716]

Any benefit to putting that shield with seal on the crank before dropping it in vs doing it after you drop the crank in?? Sorry just watching bunch of videos and learning on them.... thanks in advance and awesome job with explaining things in video

[@alexsean1936]

That was an awesome video. You are doing a great job teaching people like me. I have a question about gear timing. Is all you have to do is mark the gear before removing it and replace it as you found it called timing?

[@themechanicman3865]

Your timing is pretty much simple same thing as a gas motor they'll be a little. Or a little gas in the cam and in the crank gear there should be I have never rebuilt a diesel engine but I've done quite a few gas and I own I phoned about four or five diesels and I've worked pretty much everything besides rebuilding the whole motor I've done pretty much everything to them Transmissions gaskets all new seals turbochargers usually they run so good I don't have to get fully in depth to rebuild the whole thing but pretty much sometimes it's like I got to rebuild the whole thing if it's got an issue running and I would say if you're going to do an engine due a12 valve I have one right now that I own current Lee it's a 1997 and it's a very good engine 7 3 Powerstroke and the 73 IDI and 6.9 IDI are good but I think I like the 12 valve more good luck on whatever you build I don't think you can double-check yourself but I don't think that you have to do any other timing just add. Or that gas that's in the crank gear and in the cam gear should be all you need is it I have actually done the high pressure oil pump on a 7.3 powerstroke couple years ago and that's the gear that sits up on top of the intake and I can't remember if I had to put it back within time and I think I did I think I had to have the cam gear in line with the high pressure oil pump gear because the cam rides off the high pressure oil pump but that's on a 73 not on this one that's 12 valve haven't done a lot to the 12 M couple things here but that's on a 73 not on this one that's 12 valve haven't done a lot to the 12 M couple things here but that's on a 73 not on this one that's 12 valve haven't done a lot to the 12 M couple things here but that's on a 73 not on this one that's 12 valve haven't done a lot to the 12 M couple things here but that's on a 73 not on this one that's 12 valve haven't done a lot to the 12 M couple things here and there they but that's on a 73 not on this one that's 12 valve haven't done a lot to the 12 valve couple things here and but it's completely different engine from the Ford engines Chevy Exedra but diesels runoff compression and a lot of gas guys will be afraid to mess with the diesel and there's really no difference they're actually easier cuz you don't need spark to ignite the cylinder

[@samuelzamora1691]

Me gustaría qué lo tradugeran en español

[@miguelmiquel5497]

just wondering why you did'nt have the head powder and block powder coated? ceramic coatings on other parts etc....ps. thanks for the video

[@jiggyjim4098]

Loving this series! I've been seriously considering a 6BT into a 1987 Chevy 4 door cab long bed 4x4. I've rebuilt my share of gas engines, never a diesel. I'm curious, no deck shaving or head shaving for a diesel or was this one just in that great a shape? For 250,xxx miles it looks amazing, I was surprised to see the crosshatch still in the bores and the bearing wear.

[@MdubFrederson]

Was just in great shape. Its not uncommon for things to get a little out of plane with those cast iron blocks and heads. Usually guys will replace all of the factory valve seats while the thing is apart though. Those factory seats have been known to drop.

[@whittaker727]

No mention of setting valve lash?

[@alexsails80]

Do you oil the threads and under the head of the bolt or they go in dry?

[@danlorencz82]

Why wouldn't you torque down the head before installing the rocker arms

[@Precisionmobile]

the big rocker pedestal bolts thread into block as well

[@jkuri89]

Im freshening up my 97 12v. Can i reuse my factory rod bots, main bolts and head bolts? Some say i can some say they are stretched and i cant reuse

[@Jonesys]

Yes, you can reuse the bolts.

[@claytonfisher8128]

Re-using head bolts ?

[@watermalanblew]

Ever have any issues with felpro head gasket ?

[@xmanie02]

Mmmh you know very well what you doing brother where can I get rebuild kit for 6bt

[@mschmitty24]

I’m at this point on a 215hp 12 valve. Do the pistons stay in the block while it’s upside down or did you secure them ?

[@Jonesys]

They stay in the block

[@glennrivers2323]

I wish I could find out from somebody that knows what's a good safe kit to buy for a 12 valve 5.9 Cummins

[@MdubFrederson]

Just get the stuff that says "cummins" on the box if you're unsure.

[@justinkairo4988]

Can anyone tell me the rod bearing clearance spec (Min and Max) for 94 Cummins from a truck.

[@R.E.HILL_]

thrust/end play check done off camera?

[@Jonesys]

Yes, all the clearances were verified.

[@Bbgptak]

Did u reuse the oil head bolts?

[@Jonesys]

Yes the head bolts were reused.

[@duffman1241]

Did you check them for stretching

[@vaffanculosergio3901]

Regardless if I knew the mileage headstuds I replace that's one thing I for sure dont want breaking

[@JohnSmith-qj4cf]

Where do I get rear oil pick up tube please

[@jrewing8012]

Geno's maybe

[@MdubFrederson]

Anyone who makes a negative comment about the extension has no idea how inaccurate bolts torques are.

[@robertparrish5542]

Just wonder how well that felpro head gasket worked out for you. ??

[@matthewjones8620]

I just blew a felpro gasket

[@cubenitup]

Why not put head studs??

[@Jonesys]

This build will not require head studs. It will only see 25 psi max boost.

[@hussaalotaibi]

that is wrong you have to tight the crank shaft before any piston fit because you cant read the backlash of crank

[@Jonesys]

It is not a problem to check the crank thrust with the rods hooked up. It is often verified when the engine is installed in the vehicle. Thrust issues are most often found with manual transmission applications.

[@johnhawkins8049]

seems like it would be an extra step if you were to plasti-gauge the crank and it be out of spec. then you would have to bang those pistons back out along with the crank. just constructive criticism

[@wackowacko8931]

I hope you aren't reusing torque to yield head bolts. If they are (generally any bolt that uses an angle gauge as part of the torquing process is torque to yield), they they should have been replaced with new ones during the rebuild. Those head bolts look like they are the ones that came with the motor. Yes, there are people out there that have reused torque to yield head bolts without issue, but it generally isn't a smart thing to do because they can break while in service.

[@Jonesys]

They are not torque to yield bolts and can be reused.