Porsche 928 32V timing belt replacement.

a quick timing belt setup on a 32V porsche 928.

[@MrMagsimus]

Absolute professional and great video to watch , as an s4 owner I value this

[@am9275]

Very nice video and great information. Thank you

[@pablogimenez8369]

Awesome video Colin!!!

[@niacal4nia]

My Contitech timing belt on my 1986 Porsche 928 is 18 years old with less than 30000 miles on the belt ( weekend car garaged in Southern California). last I checked the tension was fine without any cracks. The new EPDM belts last way longer than the original belts used in the 80s and don't crack but shed rubber.

[@cjensan]

The contitech belts are garbage and stetch like crazy when hot. I would never risk an interference engine when a good gates belt is $36 with a belt that old. The longest I'd run it is 7 years. If you tried to price out the cost of valves on the 85/86 heads you would likely feel the same.

[@niacal4nia]

@@cjensan The cost of replacing timing belts every 4-5 years = Engine rebuild on a 32 valve after 18 years.

[@cjensan]

Not true. Especially on the 85/86. The 85/86 valves are insanely expensive. A full set last I checked was around $4k. A proper head job is 1200-1800 on top of that. The labor is much higher as well. I'd prefer to do things at appropriate intervals and not have to risk a major failure.

[@emielisgoed]

No problems at all so far with contitech belt. Although mine is 1 year old, not 18 haha

[@niacal4nia]

Getting close to 20 years. .My records showing timing belt replaced. on 4/20/2003. cleaning the distribute caps, I checked the belt tension using the aftermarket tensioner tool and was fine and belt look good as new without any cracks.

[@drblast]

Excellent video

[@realdata1378]

Can you do a video on how to set "initial" and "top dead center timing?" is factory settings 31 degrees before top dead center at 3,000 rpms? 36 degress at 5,000 rpms BTDC? What is "initial speed" at idle set at 6 degrees? Can you show how to set idle speed?

[@cjensan]

Hello, Every year of 928 has different timing degrees desired. For example, a 1981 US spec 4.5L is 23 degrees BTDC at 3k. All 928s achieve full advance at 3k rpm. A general rule of thumb is to set the advance at 10 BTDC at idle and adjust up and down from there. Idle speed on 78-84 16V engines is 850rpm +/- 50rpm. I can do a video on this in the future as I will be setting up my 78. But it's a ways out. I'm happy to help you set up your car before a video if you send me a message [e-mail]

[@michaellamp1729]

Great video, but I have a question. Why are you suggesting three teeth from top dead center? Most all other instructions I have seen do not mention this? I may be interpreting those instructions incorrectly. Thanks!

[@michaellamp1729]

Never mind. 3 teeth is 45 degrees from TDC. Again, great video!

[@cjensan]

@@michaellamp1729 I was just going to explain when I saw your reply. Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@user-gy8ff4wq9r]

after u run the motor , for u to check the timming again do u have to tear down the whole front end again to check the timming and adjust the cam timmiing let me know thanks , it s all 928 timming belt the same length for the different motor let meknow thanks

[@cjensan]

To check and adjust timing after, you only need to remove the upper timing belt covers when using the 32Ver tool. All 928s have the same length of timing belt. However, the 78-82 use a square tooth belt. The 1983-95 use a HTD belt.

[@MGRracing]

Is this the better engine to work on out of the two? Looks like the cams are on the heads rather than inside the cam carriers like the 16v

[@sly59vette]

Great Video! Any videos on using the PK32V'r tool?

[@cjensan]

Porken has a great set of instructions on his site. liftbars.com/32v.htm#32Vr I could do a video on that but want to discuss that with him first.

[@rassergio7109]

where can i buy a overhaulling kit for porsche 928

[@cjensan]

Either [e-mail] or [e-mail]

[@giannirocco7492]

The engine looks crazy clean,any tips on how to get results comparable to the engine we see here?

[@cjensan]

Lots of elbow grease! This engine had redone cylinder heads so they were run through a jet washer. After that I used some scotch brite pads with some brake cleaner to remove the last bits of dirt. It helps to remove the slight surface corrosion and leave a nice brushed akuminum look as well

[@giannirocco7492]

@@cjensan you certainly get my compliments and respect!

[@cjensan]

Thank you. 😁

[@danparr]

Can you elaborate on balancing bank/bank compression with cams timing? What's the rule? Give advance to reduce compression or the opposite? Set to the higher possible value on both banks or else? Can this method be used to fine-adjust timing without using a dial on the cams or a PK32V'r? Thanks.

[@cjensan]

Advancing the cams will increase compression numbers, retarding will decrease. It is best to use the PK32Ver to set the timing and have a good base setting. Then doing a hot compression test to balance the banks. Compression testers have a vast variation between them. That coupled with different camshafts there is not a set number to go after.

[@danparr]

@@cjensan Not a set number, I meant the higher compression value you can get equal on both banks on a given motor using the same tester. Which can be different from one engine to another. Me think that if you readjust cams timing (following compression values) AFTER you have used the PK32VR you may as well start by setting the cams pos. at mid point in the cam gears then do directly the compression thing without having to use the PK32VR, since you will "overwrite" its adjustment anyway following the compression tests.

[@cjensan]

@@danparr Setting with the 32Ver gets you very close. If done correctly the numbers hot are balanced. The test is to ensure that your numbers are balanced and if any adjustment is needed it will be a small amount.

[@charliedadoun5972]

Where’s Mr Jensans shop?

[@cjensan]

I'm in BC Canada. In the 100 mile house area.

[@gazfish]

Some debate on the S2 16v being non interference for anyone playing along.

[@cjensan]

Ive replaced a broken camshaft on a 1984 928S2 (dual dizzy) with no bent valves. I've also personally owned an 85 928S2 dual dizzy and set every cylinder to TDC and rotated the cams when doing the belt job. There was zero interference and car ran great after. Ive seen reports of later S2s (85/86) that have bent valves and always best to treat every engine as if its interference. But its likely those with interference have had prior work done such as a skimmed head which removes that tiny bit of clearance and makes them interference. But to date I have yet to have a stock untouched one be interference.