Proper Pant Length | A Guide To Men's Pant Breaks

[@The_Kavalier]

Just being able to define "pants break" will put you ahead of most of the men out there. Walk into a typical office building and prepare to cringe as you look around! Great video Brian!

[@hespokestyle]

😂

[@ronthompson2366]

@@hespokestyle said so well. ..it's horrible how many people, men, don't properly set the hem and break on thier trousers. From to short, to disgustingly long, dragging and horribly bunched up.... of course I also see way to many who don't tailor the fit to begin with through out the whole trouser. Kinda makes one wonder any more. You pay good money for a good pair of trousers, and you have no pride in their proper fit.

[@JulyFourth1776]

@@ronthompson2366 "too"

[@jacknjill3000]

Anymore

[@jacknjill3000]

Anymore

[@charlesyoung9980]

As a larger man, I must admit that my favorite type of break is Lunch Break. :)

[@hespokestyle]

Hahahaha. Nice.

[@JSerrato289]

God you made me snort loud

[@EPiK277]

Hahahaha good one

[@dynamicentry6157]

lol

[@moneikamccrory8526]

😂😂😂😂

[@BrockMcGoff]

Well done, Brian! I hope filming this inspired you to make more. I know how time consuming it is, especially for a perfectionist like you! Keep it up 👊🏼

[@hespokestyle]

The Modest Man thanks, my friend. Learning to let go!

[@davidedwards8282]

no break looks dorky on anybody

[@willsgaming1481]

ikr, its overrated, i like the full break

[@maureenhickey6180]

Tip....when you sit down the trs will go up 2 far if it is 2 short.

[@RealityHurts923]

Sad that so many offices are going more casual. I wish I could wear a suit everyday and not feel overdressed.

[@hespokestyle]

You do have to kind of play to the room a bit, unfortunately. Instead of a suit, why not try trousers and a blazer?

[@spicecrop]

Screw em. Do your thing. You'll be the best dresses and the other guys will feel under dresses.

[@timcorrell9863]

I completely agree with this. This is precisely what I would do.

[@patriot4786]

RealityHurts923 IKR!, we wish it was like the 1960s and before where people normally wear suites and had class

[@nutyyyy]

@@hespokestyle Why not go for a more casual suit, seems like a great opportunity to bring in some lighter tones ;)

[@frankd8204]

Seeing more and more of the no break pant length on younger men these days. As a gentleman over 50, I could never pull this look off, nor do I want to either. It definitely doesn't look good on overweight or short men in my opinion, especially when they get it too short and have it cropped. This looks ridiculous in my opnion, but fashion is fashion. Great educational video Brian, so thanks.

[@hespokestyle]

Thanks, Frank. Appreciate the comment and discussion. I am 41 years old, myself, and I am still a fan of no break. I'm lean so I feel it suits my body type, plus I am very much a proponent of classic style with a modern sensibility. It will be interesting to see how my tastes evolve as I get deeper into my 40s and closer to 50. The biggest change recently has been favoring pants with a single pleat!

[@lennartsb7575]

I personally do very like it without a break. In fact, I only have cropped or shortened trousers. I think it looks much more clean and elegant. But I’m 17 although I think even older people can pull this off, if they have the right proportions.

[@andrew1212w]

Full break for me on trouser length I think no break looks ridiculous on older guys like myself 😊

[@errorsofmodernism9715]

Oh come on, there are floods coming in the springtime because of global warming, you have to be ready with your pants stopping mid-calf where I come from...

[@michigan0207]

Does nobody do the military style break? When I was in the Marines they would have the back of the pants touch the top of the welt. And then they would have the front of the pants just touch the top of the laces. This gives a full length look without putting a break in the crease. It gives it a very sharp look.

[@MultiMrMiles]

thats imo the perfect break indeed, i have them and its awesome!

[@gat569]

Ooh rah!

[@dillonjeffares4434]

I disagree with the idea that no/minimum break is for fashion forward, younger men. I’ve often seen impeccably dressed men in their mid forties or older with little to no break on their trousers, because it’s the hallmark of well fitting trousers. When I look to see how well dressed a gentleman is, I sometimes don’t bother looking at the upper half at all. The shoes and trousers will say plenty...

[@websurfer1585]

I think no break looks silly, like your trousers have shrunk, a break looks way better imo, aspecially when you consider trousers ride up slightly when you walk too, i don't se how no break can be considered 'modern' or more 'fashion forward' ?

[@jrlee31]

For the medium break look, I think that's an Allen Edmonds McAllister shoe. Are you using shoe trees in your shoes? Because I find them not in good shape. Just my observation.

[@gentwithin]

Hmm.. Interesting take on going with the house style of bespoke tailoring. Great video, Brian. Looking forward to seeing more!

[@hespokestyle]

Gentleman Within thanks, Khoi. IMO when you’re talking about a legendary tailor, you should want what that tailor is legendary for. In the case of Edward Sexton, that’s a strong shoulder and particular trouser length.

[@littleredcurious5044]

I always wear a slight break . It's a crisp look I feel

[@hespokestyle]

Awesome.

[@willsgaming1481]

I like the full break and im not that tall (5 foot 10 and a quarter and wears 32 or 33 inseam jeans, I am still growing tho bc im only just turned 17 2 weeks ago) nor am i fat anymore nor am I old, I am a teenager, full break just I like it. I think the no break look is a little too common. I see some thin guys who wear full break and they look not bad at all. I don't know why, many people just don't like the full break for some reason, it is underrated. Tall people or people with long legs just look very good with full break jeans.

[@jimmyb8021]

Would love to see a video or even advice specific to tailoring pants for boots (chelsee or dressy lace ups) vs regular shoes on dress pants. I love suits with boots but have a hard time figuring out what pant length to accomodate both...or if that's just not possible.

[@ppagandones4407]

I have 52 years old and use the Full Break , is Perfect For Me , Elegant , Traditional and Vintage

[@CLaop68]

Although clear and realistic, video lacks of good supportive information to make a choice. More examples on different body types and kind of trousers would be appreciated. I am subscribing to your channel willing for part number 2 of this topic.

[@OneTalaw]

Brian, nice content and yes most of the rules should be used as guidelines, however saying that in time the “fashion” of tapered no break will fade and those that embrace this fashion trend will in time regret this choice. The more “classic” style of a full break has stood the test of time and will continue long into the future.

[@markart157]

totally agree, same as the ultra slim fit suits that are just something trendy but in time the classic fit is also the one that lasts the longest.

[@LemurKrazy]

To my eye the full break looks classier.

[@samuel700]

I think this a personal style and of course style changes over time... @@LemurKrazy

[@matthoffman6962]

Slight break looks the best in my opinion. No break can work as well but it’s really fashion forward

[@zekiah2]

Hey I just want to know how 30 or 32 for buying clothes on line

[@q-storm767]

Hey Brian. I'm about average height (5' 9.5") and between 190 and 200 lbs but I don't look too overweight. Is the medium break a safe break for me?

[@jimklemens5018]

Yes.

[@willsgaming1481]

medium or full break looks great

[@KontryBoy706]

Slight break for me. Tapered. Show of my shoes and some of my socks. But still looking clean

[@jeffreyadams8345]

thanks, my suit I just got needs to have pants tailored, I am leaning toward full break, good video sir

[@hespokestyle]

Depends on your body type as much as your personal style. Glad this was helpful!

[@nathanchang7713]

Go for full break or quarter break. Full break is ugly

[@laundrymatsecurityguard8702]

When I see suit or tuexdo dragging on the floor I want to scream.

[@hespokestyle]

😁

[@elsa3dany1]

On point as always, I am just wishing for more content; but anyway it is fine for me to have less content but a quality one just like this! Keep it up!

[@hespokestyle]

Thank you so much. What would you consider "more"? We're planning at least twice a week to start.

[@Larry-qz3es]

Being a short man (5'5), I always opt for the no break in my pants/trousers. Tapering the leg as suggested to a 7.5 opening for the shoe/pant ratio.

[@ulfricthorsson8347]

Question: I wear combat boots All. Of. The. Time. I wear them at work and with my nice clothes. I fucked up my ankle when I was with the National Guard and need the support that my boots give. So what should I go with? The military style break where the front touches the curve of the boot and the back touches the top of the heel, or what?

[@ronthompson2366]

To short.... but I stick to the military teaching. ..7/8 inch break, and 1/4 inch above the welt of the shoe (at the heel) to just touching the heel and no more than a 1/4 inch below the welt of the shoe at the heel. Yes, it requires a fuller width through the leg and no cuff. If the rest of the trouser is properly fit. The leg will hang properly.

[@federanger]

loved it hope you put out content on a regular basis , cause your channel is by far the most interesting in the menswear space

[@hespokestyle]

That's the plan and thank you for the compliments! KZbin is a priority for us this year and we've got 11 videos already shot and in the can. You can expect at least two a week - Tuesdays and Thursdays - possibly more and a live show is in the works. Any topics or format you'd like to see in a live show?

[@federanger]

yes reviews of the products of Hss website

[@hespokestyle]

You talking general reviews of clothing and brands? Or about the items we have in the HSS Shop? Not sure reviews of our own stuff would be totally unbiased, you know? 😀

[@federanger]

the ones on the HSS shop , you can review your own stuff with out being one sided , for examples the watches you can review them and also educate others that are getting intwo watches , or a quick review on the books you carry etc

[@hespokestyle]

Alright, cool. Glad to hear your perspective. It's a balancing act - definitely don't want to come off as only promoting our own stuff.

[@JannaCoumoundouroslilacpop]

Great video! Thank you for posting. I am a dress designer and don't do menswear but this helped me with hemming some pants. Super helpful!

[@timcorrell9863]

I like full break best but medium break is also good. I would avoid slight break and no break is the worst. No break reminds me of that fool Pee Wee Herman.

[@beardzebub6341]

Thank you! This was really helpful!

[@hespokestyle]

You got it, James.

[@n.h187]

I currently only wear two brakes. The shivering brake( similar to slight brake) and no brake. Always cuffed to show some sartorial knowledge as most guys only wear hemmed. For a future video, how about taking about collars. E.g. Different types of collars (Cutaway, button down etc) and which tie knots go with what. (Double four in hand 😉)

[@hespokestyle]

Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely planning to do a shirt collar guide.

[@josephcampese5347]

Wow, sartorial! I learned a new word. Thank you.

[@wadebolderman3250]

Truly a timeless suit of clothes must incorporate not trendy or fad related aspects, but a look that says I’ve been doing this for a long time. I am so tired of all these so called experts on KZbin that are in their late twenties to early thirties and constantly are fad chasers, mostly. Gents Lounge to name one. You know what you’re talking about and I appreciate that!

[@hespokestyle]

Preach, brother. Appreciate your comment and support. Over the past year, I've dedicated a lot of time to the channel precisely for some of the reasons you name and also because anyone can pretend to be whatever they want on Instagram. However, put a camera on them and listen to what they have to say (or don't) and you very quickly find out who they really are.

[@wadebolderman3250]

Very true indeed. Keep up the great work!

[@lexisworld7232]

Hey Brian I recently started to watch your videos to up my satirical game and enjoy them very much. I never knew you were from Schenectady; so am I. I grew up in the amount Pleasant area! Keep up the great work

[@hespokestyle]

Hey, Dan! Awesome! Glad to meet you and nice to hear you're enjoying the videos. Cheers.

[@MrHadluve]

No BREAK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! give me A bREAKKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@hespokestyle]

Ha

[@willsgaming1481]

buy longer pants if you want a break lol

[@VinnyLePes]

I wish you had quickly defined what break means and what you were referring to in each image, I ended up just having to look all that up to understand anything in this video.

[@extraecclesiamnullasalus4148]

Great video! I have a quick question, how big should the tapered leg hole be for the slight break? You stated 7”-7.5” for the no break and I was wondering what it would be for the slight break. Thanks for the help!

[@JB-gt4lr]

My slacks are perfect it’s just when I sit down they show a little less or a inch ,is this fine ??

[@JB-gt4lr]

Inch of ankle that fine ??

[@hespokestyle]

Yes. That’s what happens when you sit down and your knees bend. Do not overthink this.

[@danni231]

loved this video Brian! Very informative, particularly the part about embracing the style of a well known tailoring house!

[@80sruler]

I’ve been doing #1 more and more - especially with slim fit jeans/pants

[@hespokestyle]

If it fits your body type, that's the right way to go.

[@roskes]

Fantastic video. I've learned from experience that the style you get early in the morning is always longer than the one you get through the day. In my case medium or slight break always becomes no break after a few hours, depending on the fabric. Bear that in mind!

[@observelistennlearn1415]

No breaks, makes me too conscious. Reminds me when I used to get pick on about my puddle jumper looks as a kid. Lol!

[@hespokestyle]

Well, the problem with no break and having that "puddle jumper" look is that your pants probably weren't tapered. In order to pull off the no-break look, your pants have a have a taper to them.

[@observelistennlearn1415]

@@hespokestyle thank u!

[@hespokestyle]

You got it!

[@peterreedman]

Brian, you are a man of greatness and we owe a debt of gratitude to you for your fine video and wise council. Full Break Thank you

[@hespokestyle]

Haha, you're much too kind. Thanks for the comment.

[@amywalker7515]

When you go for the shortest length pant, you have nowhere to go if the fashion trends change. You can't get them tailored longer.

[@MsTuliplady]

Thanks! Today I went suit shopping with my father, and I was as useful as a toddler at the auto mechanics. My dad hadnt bought a suit in at least 2 decades. Times have changed! Good to know this stuff

[@I_ahm_Jade]

My question is how do one achieve these different trouser length. From your wait to what point on your ankles should your tailor aim for to achieve these different lengths? Pls I know my question is coming 6years late but I really appreciate an answer

[@dogman1ism]

Do trousers always have to be tapered. I’m 5’10” 132 pound. Should I taper? I have a half break.

[@DTUFINOPhotography]

what to do when, you have the right length when wearing shoes and chukkas, but now wear a high 6 inch combat dress boot and the pants just bunch at the bottom / top of the boot?

[@ΜάνοςΚαρτσάκης-σ5ω]

Great video as always. I have a quick question. Do you think that one of those lengths looks better than others while being seated? Thanks in advance.

[@Tyronieus]

Slight break for me. Looking forward to Tuesdays and Thursdays Brian.

[@hespokestyle]

Tyrone E thanks, my man. Stay tuned!

[@slowworld8951]

ngl i might be dumb but i didn’t realize a difference between any of them after the first very tapered one 😹

[@angelicafoster670]

how should the break look when i'm sitting down in suit pants , they tend to show some skin when i sit down, all guidelines show proper length when standing but none when sitting down.

[@luvsharmachem3981]

What to do if i have a little muscular thighs and narrow calves the pants i get always look narrowed

[@fifaworld95]

Like your channel and content, looking forward to see more new videos of u ;)

[@hespokestyle]

Adau Chan thanks so much! New video out today at noon!

[@thegrey53]

Wow, you were so young here I almost did not recognise you.

[@Bbnvts]

Styles are relative to circumstances. Nobody can teach style

[@dominijerzboi]

@He Spoke Style at the @1:42 mark when you said that the leg open when tapered should be around 7 to 7.5 opening. This taper should it begin around the knee, blew the knee, or at the ankle? Is this rule for all types of pants: jeans, chinos, dress slacks?

[@hespokestyle]

It really depends on you. A taper should be gradual. Depending on how wide (or not) the trousers are at the thigh, starting at the knee could be fine. It's the same for all types of pants, in general. For example, I actually had a pair of my APC New Standard jeans tapered. They fit great in the thigh but the leg opening was too wide for my taste. My tailor started the taper from the knee in that case.

[@cbrand777]

Very informative.

[@quietatse]

Those Burgundy whole cuts are 👌👌👌

[@smoothoperator7023]

Anything but that skinny leg "high water" look!!! 😣

[@MsTuliplady]

This. In the 80s, us kids did anything to avoid high waters, as it implied that your parents were too poor to adequately buy you clothes to accommodate your growth spurts. Now men and women are all into high waters. Full break for me please!

[@Lovemusic856]

MsTuliplady I totally agree! It even seem ridiculous the “high water” look.

[@myvenusinuranus]

@@MsTuliplady yeah, if you wore pants like that in the 80's you'd be ridiculed to no end. I call it the Pee Wee Herman look but it's the style now.......super skinny pants that are too short

[@kungvubeatmaking3401]

I don’t like the no break option although it is contemporary. For once it makes the fabric look boring. Just look at any famous portrait painting, the artists love wavy fabric. In addition it reveals a lot of sock once you are sitting or cross legs. And I always feel like I grew too fast as a teenager walking around with flood trousers.

[@Michael-pk5pp]

Agree, think you are correct; thanks.

[@Razzzordback]

My only advice if we wear even tapered pants no break lenght maybe dont work if pants dont have cuffs because they dont have weight and stick to our sock and go up. And i agree cuffed pants dont work well with slight break

[@hespokestyle]

Thanks for chiming in

[@astromoosie]

I have some fall/winter style pants from club Monaco with a non-cuffed pant leg. My legs are relatively short to my body. Would you recommend a no break hem for these pants?

[@hespokestyle]

Tough one. If you have short legs, the last think you want to do is to make them shorter. So I'd say that although you may like the look of no brea, ultimately, you have to dress your body. In your case, I'd probably suggest a medium break. It will help elongate your legs.

[@herbertsmagon5777]

are you using dye in your hair in this video? im new here.

[@markmandel6738]

I would have found it a whole lot easier to understand if you had told us what "break" means here. Sure, it's probably very informative if you're already know half of what it's about, but NOT IF YOU DON'T!

[@stephen4347]

I like the no break with a cuff.

[@vincewu9757]

Do slim suits usually come with a tapered pant leg?

[@hespokestyle]

Typically everything is proportionate.

[@djyoyo169]

Rolling pant looks very terrible pants to loose

[@tangchiprathomo819]

I think No Brake is the best option for me.

[@chronometa]

At 5'4.5 with an athletic build. I like slight break for my chinos or dress pants. Medium break for jeans.

[@bubbie23jw]

time for a update version

[@Met9171]

What do you mean by that the leg needs to be taped/tapered?Last question,am I doing justice to myself if I tailor my jeans according to where must the jean reach at the leg bottom while sitting down preferebly under those two bones at the sides of the leg?Is it right or must it be above those bones?

[@rightmarker1]

Men wear TROUSERS ffs - ‘pants’ are what you wear underneath. A short trouser hem break makes you look like an American or, worse, a Canadian. The trouser hem should break well on the shoe but not so much it goes too close to the shoe heel at the rear. A good tailor will take care of this.

[@tadmore]

Great tips! This is very useful and people can use this for requesting their pant hems online.

[@evilspock4714]

No Break is the way to go. Women literally drool when they see tapered pants with no break.

[@hespokestyle]

Do you have scientific data to back that claim up?

[@evilspock4714]

He Spoke Style No, it’s bro science.

[@hespokestyle]

@@evilspock4714 Hahahaha.

[@moreshwara]

Awesome ! Only cream layer of people working in corporates in India 🇮🇳 may think about this. Very nice information. It will be more comprehensive if full shape of the pant is shown. Thanks for🙏💕 making me to think on style of pants.

[@wysiwyg2489]

Why the first pair of pants has a longer right leg? 1:09 1:16, I would ask the taylor of the second pair of pants my money back, the way they were stitched, see right leg, is too tight and looks terrible. Sorry, I don't want to sound like a snob but if you want to look on this type of details, you must start with the fundamentals.

[@lordass4007]

Glad to have you back Brian, Keep em coming

[@hespokestyle]

Thanks, William. More on the way. Tune in on Thursday!

[@michaels1527]

thanks for the video! im looking to get a custom suit for my wedding. What is the standard leg opening for a slight break pant. I like the fitted tapered look and im thinking about a 7 inch leg opening. I just don't want it to be too aggressive since its a suit and not skinny jeans. Im 5'9 and 185 pounds. Do you think a 7 would work without being too much or could 8 work without losing the tapered fit look?

[@qarhsi]

great one brian! but there are wrongs - shorter than no break, i.e. above the ankle and those that are longer than a full break. for trousers, ppl should stick to these 4. for casual pants however, there is more leeway.

[@hespokestyle]

Ishraq Haider cropped is what I’d call the shorter than no break. I do say that I’m talking about the four most common lengths, not all of them. I’ve never heard of anything longer than a full break...

[@qarhsi]

He Spoke Style yes you're right. I think cropped territory isn't the way to go. Ofc there's nth longer than a full break, but some ppl wear pants so long that they become multiple full breaks LOL :p

[@peterjewels]

I sell suits for a living and work with tailors everyday. Half the time is like pulling teeth to get guys to have the pants altered to be a proper break length. It’s really just that they’re uneducated on proper fashion. It would be nice for them if they watched this video. It’s hard to watch sometimes.

[@styzoom]

There is nothing uglier than fluffy flowing pant legs, that said I find it more and more annoying to see guys with ankle high pant legs. I am back to no break with a slightly longer back.

[@thomasmargolis3313]

Your fellow arbiters of "good taste" are in agreement. On the other side, there are those, ie producer Michael, that possess the wealth to dress, act and behave as they wish, and do. Interesting.

[@xxInanimateObjectxx]

More content Brian 👍

[@hespokestyle]

Coming up, my man! Tune in on Thursday. I mentioned to another commenter that we're prioritizing KZbin this year and we have 11 videos in the can already and queued up. You can expect two a week - Tuesdays and Thursdays - to start and more once we get settled in, including a live show on Fridays. Speaking of that, any particular format you'd be interested in seeing with a live show?

[@Charlezard.]

I didn't know about these. I feel like I only ever see the full break and I've never liked it. It looks like your pants are too long. I learned from this that I like the slight break.

[@dlhussain81]

Yep no break is my choice. Don’t like trousers rubbing against my shoes

[@danielduggan5405]

Little or no break for me depending on the look and function of the piece I'm going for. It took me visits to 3 different tailors, though, to find one who gave me the desired look with proper length and taper. For some reason, though adequate, they seemed to err in the conservative direction.

[@1525boy]

Another excellent, informative video.

[@hespokestyle]

Many thanks, Harsha. Appreciate the comment.

[@diedericho]

Thanks, love those burdeaux full cut shoes. What are those?

[@lennypignatello7493]

For me ,Being a slightly stocky but not heavy but short I feel a full break makes me look heavier I go with median or slight just Curious if anyone feels the same?

[@hespokestyle]

You can never go wrong with a medium break. It all depends on your body and how the pants look on you.

[@lennypignatello7493]

He Spoke Style What are you think about the new style of material looks like a canvas wingtip/Oxford shoe looks really nice comes in multiple colors

[@pecsbadman]

I feel the same. A cuff makes you look shorter, just like low- waisted slacks do. You want you legs to look as long as possible if you're shorter. Higher-waisted slacks and no cuffs help that, IMHO.

[@lennypignatello7493]

reh052052 Exactly like 12 in the fall break and if you’re a guy like myself makes you look shorter

[@pecsbadman]

Slight break, no cuff for me. I'm about 5'9" and wear a 30" inseam off the rack. It cracks he up to see shorter guys who wear their slacks way too long and they step on them in the back. It's like they tell themselves, "I'm not short, I wear pants with a 34" inseam!" Also, those cuffs look disproportionately wide/deep for the opening of the pant leg. What are they, 1.5 inches?

[@hespokestyle]

2" cuff. For me, cuff or no cuff is more dependent on the purpose of the suit. Is it meant for more formal occasions? No cuff. Everyday wear. Cuff.

[@jonro09]

Really enjoyed this video. Look forward to receiving more.

[@MrLmfboy]

I saw guys on street wearing sneakers to match the suit pants , is that full break or medium break ?

[@JuanCarlos-fy3xp]

Let me kindly observe that you need to improve the look of those shoes. Other than that, thanks for the advices. Love your approach.

[@martinichris2878]

Hey Brain. Does it make a difference if you wear it with boots ?

[@calvinfranklin5052]

What about those whole cuts you're wearing with the plaid pants?

[@philmcchrystal1670]

I think they’re called trousers, just sayin’

[@shreedhars1393]

Brother please Tell me the measurements of your shirt and pant... please it helps me

[@sarasnara865]

Thank you Brian, you explained it so well.