Pulled out my own well pump to change the check valve after pump is coming on every 20 minutes.

[@rusosure7]

Amazing work. You displayed a LOT of courage doing this yourself. BRAVO!

[@lv7603]

A one man operation muscle 💪. Well done sir.

[@kennylavay8492]

First suggestion a helper would have been nice. Plus if that were me i would have put in a new pump with all the work you did. My opinion but all in all nice job.

[@shelbydogg]

I had a new $800 pump but returned it after I saw that I had a Goulds pump. Now that I changed to roll pipe and have my rollers, I can change that pump in less than three hours.

[@shelbydogg]

This is a link to H2O Mechanic’s, KZbin channel: youtube.com/@h2omechanic?si=He9BZCGtbNq255Pe

[@alexm2833]

my well guy charged me 300$ for this, he was done in 30 minutes or so. He called that valve a "job security valve" and never puts it in himself unless the wells are very deep.

[@shelbydogg]

When I called the well company about five years ago, I didn’t know anything about Wells. The guy could tell by what I was asking. He said the minimum would’ve been $1000 to pull it up. So I watched H2O mechanic on KZbin and he taught me all about my pitless adapter and everything about wells. Also learned how to pull out my 30 year old electric furnace and install my own 3.5 ton heat pump and air handle on “KZbin University” and has been working great for 5 months so far. Your well guy must be a friend or relative.

[@musclecargarage8882]

Nice work. Is that the original pump and stick pipe??

[@shelbydogg]

Yes sir. This house is built in 93 and I bought a 12 years ago. As far as I know it’s the same pump that’s been in there 31 years. If you spend more money the first time did you be worth it to have a better quality part, especially since it is 200 feet in the ground before I learned about Wells KZbin university, well company was going to charge me $1000 just to pull it up out of the hole.

[@musclecargarage8882]

@shelbydogg OH ok cool. I got a well at my house also. I was curious on how long we'll pump usually last. I been at my house for 9 years and the house was built in 2014

[@shelbydogg]

@@musclecargarage8882 check out H2O Mechanic’s KZbin channel. Before I watched him, I knew nothing about my well or pitless adapter.

[@musclecargarage8882]

@@shelbydogg I'll check him out thanks

[@rlund3]

I wonder how many guys will understand "like a diode"?

[@shelbydogg]

Just as long as I know and you know what a diode is, I know I am not alone in the world. L O L.

[@arnoldromppai5395]

First off never put a check valve between the pitless an the pump. When you buy a new pump check an see if it has a check valve in it. If it do remove it. The only place you install a check valve is right at your presser tank brass tee were your well line hooks to. Being air or water cant flow back from the check valve it never going to drain back into the well. But once you pull the pitless off. All the water in the 1.25" black polly line an pump all that water will drain out of the line making it hundreds of ponds lighter. We're you can hand pull even 300' of line up by hand. Why they install check valves below pitless is so 99% of people have to call an pay big bucks to pull out there pump an put in a new one because line is so heavy with water you need a power drive to pull it. Never mind check valve fail at 45 below. You don't need any more then 1 1" check valve right at presser tank. It air locked it will never flow back but will soon as you pull pipe off pitless. 2nd if that happen to me at a place I bought an not a place I built from nothing. I wouldn't be doing what your doing today at -26 I just buy a 1" check valve. Well no I wouldn't I'd just get one from my stock pipe cut the black polly pipe off the length of check valve. At presser tank. Unscrew hose to pipe thread hose barb thread in a 1" x2" pipe nipple an screw the check valve on with arrow pointing to tank. Screw on hose barb fitting. Heat up black polly line push it on hose barb an clamp fast before polly cooled down to much to make a good seal. Job done. Ps if you have crap pvc chuck it out an buy a 300' roll of 1" or 1.25" red strip black polly pipe rated 175psi an install it. Pvc brakes easey an a pain when pump needs pulling. You have to cut it up unlike polly or pex. Here in nw Ont. Canada they charge 2000 to $3000 to pull your pump plus cost of pump witch in 700 to $1400 an unless they have a licesed electrician on staff the must call in a eletrical contractor to pull a permit an make the wire connections at pump an in a water tight junction box out side wall case. That a minimum extra $1800

[@arnoldromppai5395]

If the check valve gone you pull it up by hand no big deal no water in it

[@arnoldromppai5395]

We're your 1/8" stainless steel air craft safty cable? Go through eye on pump an hooks to well cap so when conection or fitting fails you don't loss the pump. You didn't take your rubber tork arester off the pvc an put it on your new pex pipe. You need that an set so it rubs well case to stop pump from turning on start up. You also need to lube up the rubber seal on pitless before putting together using Vaseline

[@kevinroberts9394]

Now the disappointing part you could have just put a check valve by the tank, without pulling the pump😂

[@shelbydogg]

I had to pull it up to see what was down there and how deep it was. Do it the right way the first time.

[@CerebralAilment]

Saved some coin there

[@josephgarasky909]

Should have hired a professional.

[@shelbydogg]

I am a professional. lol