Qidi plus 4 has a new design flaw and here is how to temporarily fix it. Bed blocking chamber heater

[@NoizieWorks]

Side note, this happens with and without the chamber fan it just takes a mm more and a bit of extra time. Unless the last part of the print is a few small things it's the same as rolling the dice.

[@JTs3DPrints]

@@NoizieWorks I looked at closely, lowering bed to lowest extent. Think one could 3d print a recessed self designed part with upwards facing fin that could press fit into air exit area, has horizontal fin that aims upwards at 80 degrees and splits some air facing downwards at 25 degree angle can even block some direct heat from uprights in region where it close to air outlet cutting down in radiant heat exposure of vertical, though expansion is already accounted for by design. This would be printed in PPS or maybe PET-CF. Think it will more evenly distribute air on top and under deck and prevent any issues when at 270mm to 280mm height objects, simple shallow press fits into the rectangular shape of heater air exit. Does not look like tall prints will always fail, but this one simple add should cure any chances of an issue….it would be very easy press fit design…. I am going to do test prints without and with that added in pps and also petcf when i get chance. I did notice after lowering bed they do have room for air except on tiny zone at like you said furthest or last 6mm. A press in high angle fin with added low angle fin should fix or remove any risk of issues this may cause

[@NoizieWorks]

@@JTs3DPrints great work brother

[@JTs3DPrints]

@@NoizieWorks going on my normal 7days off in work schedule will design a part and print and test it week out when I return home….. I have some PETCF that should work well, if not will grab 1/2 kilo of PPS. 97mm by 31.5 and has rounded lower corners rough fast measurements will design with to start one fin will aim upwars roughly 80 degrees other downwards about 25 degrees should be good test start n will flush fit be pretty shallow piece. Can even add a bit of side exhaust air flow to cover left front vertical edge allows some air to go towards front door as the bed moves in close to it…

[@802Garage]

Strange. I just left a comment that totally disappeared. Happens with comment replies a lot, but usually not first comments. At any rate, nice coverage of this issue. I have been speculating that they changed the overall dimensions of the printer late in the design process and that pushed the heater in further. stew675 was the first to make a code fix as far as I know. Just want to add that my Plus4 has still been great with no major issues not even a bearing problem. I was able to produce print in place bearings I designed myself with 0.01mm tolerances and print them without fusion. I was able to break them apart by hand and 1-2 balls with persuasion of a small screwdriver and they spin well within a minute of work. 0.02mm tolerances I can take off the build plate and break free by hand immediately. This level of precision is part of what I really wanted a printer like this for. I'm glad most issues are relatively small, but I definitely hope Qidi is working hard on revisions so that version 1.1 if you will is a nearly perfect printer.

[@NoizieWorks]

Probably the yt bot comment thing that deletes the wrong comments lol... Glad that yours is working great! But i would implement this code just to be sure.

[@GJBUAV]

thanks for bringing this up. been pleased so far with the printer - my first one so complete noob to the technology anyway. seems like a fix should be very straightforward for the manufacturer to push out a replacement part. luckily apart from a poop chute ive not printed anything over 100mm anyway. multiboard and wall art are currently in the queue - so hopefully by the time i'm needing to do something full height it will be sorted.

[@THEMANCAVE2023]

Thanks for sharing this man. I did not know how to fix it in code but I looked at the build plate and heater and was like um no that is no good. thanks works like a charm at 270 can do 273 but I dont want to push it

[@NoizieWorks]

@@THEMANCAVE2023 Nice!

[@geforce5591]

Going forward. I hope more companies involve more knowledgeable users early enough in product development before releasing to the masses. Such an easy way to avoid so many overlooked problems.

[@jasonholley3009]

If you wrap that chamber heater core in a layer or two of capton tape you shouldn't have to worry about any melting in combination with your new PA6-GF material.

[@NoizieWorks]

@@jasonholley3009 thanks for the tip!

[@nickynorton]

Again another great informative video 👏

[@andrew6061]

I just messaged qidi asking about this and whether it be a replacement shroud that is redesigned or partial refund because it wont do as advertised it dosen't say heated chamber unless you go passed the 270 mark

[@NoizieWorks]

Interested in the response

[@andrew6061]

​@@NoizieWorks Their response Thank you for expressing your concerns and bringing this to our attention. We're aware of the chamber heat error and we will be addressing it in the next firmware update.I want to also assure you that the machine is designed with built-in safety features, including a temperature protection system for the chamber heater. Rest assured, the printer is solidly built, so there are no concerns regarding the hardware. We appreciate your feedback and are committed to improving your experience.

[@NoizieWorks]

@@andrew6061 ... how the hell do you fix hardware issues in firmware

[@andrew6061]

@NoizieWorks exactly what I said in my response that they need to recall or when patched, will be false advertisement because we can't hit the 280 mark when printing because we need the heated chamber i also suggested replacement parts sent out for it but we will see what is said

[@NoizieWorks]

@andrew6061 In all my conversations as a reviewer, they are thankful but have a big avoidance to admit failure or act on it in a constructive way. They fixed the Q1pro but i'm not sure if sending replacement parts to existing customers when not broken is very high on the list. This indeed warrants a replacement part as it's fundamentally "broken". I can understand it, it's expensive but even creality does better if it's a factory fault.

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

Please contact Qidi directly and suggest to add a second exit slot in the shroud, so that when one is blocked, the other one will work

[@NoizieWorks]

I did, talk a lot to them. I hope they listen instead of thanking me...

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

@@NoizieWorks they usually do, see the changes in the Q1 between the first units and the ones 3 months after release. They corrected basically everything.

[@NoizieWorks]

@olafmarzocchi6194 They probably will, i just hope they do something for the existing owners on this problem. Except for a macro, a replacement part seems to be the only option unless you consider hacking into the shroud a fix. I'm fine leaving it like it is to be honest. Feel free to give your opinion on this.

[@DownUnderTechReview]

@@NoizieWorks For many of us who bought early we are waiting on our bonus gifts to come in about a months time, it would be nice if they would send us a replacement shroud that has wider/extra vent holes to fix this issue.

[@NoizieWorks]

@DownUnderTechReview got an answer from my contact and they are going to fix it in firmware... so it sounds like they are just going to do what i did unless there is some other klipper magic. It doesn't sound like new parts anytime soon for batch 1 users.

[@MinionAtTheGate]

Thank you for your excellent presentation. Qidi has a history of sending new models out with serious design and component flaws. Didn't they have to recall a model because it was so bad they had to take them all back and redesign them? For something as basic as the build plate. A problem with the assembly quality or an occasional defective component is one thing but always sending new models out for the customers to beta test is a ridiculous business practice. It will be interesting if all the sponsored KZbin marketing videos will be enough to counter the horrible reputation they are building. For only a few hundred dollars you can become a beta tester for Qidi - no thanks.

[@NoizieWorks]

@MinionAtTheGate That's exactly how i feel now, it's free content so I'm not complaining but i feel sorry for all the batch 1 buyers for sure.

[@MinionAtTheGate]

@@NoizieWorks Seems to be the trend for many companies to rush products to market that are unusable, look at video games. I guess for Qidi it reflects in their prices

[@NoizieWorks]

Games are awful these days... Indeed, pricing is reflecting the quality at the moment.

[@Doc_Fitz]

It is my understanding, that as of November 9, 2024 I should : 1. Update Pluse4 firmware 2. Glue a loose linear bearing on the tool head X axis AND, if I live in a county with 110 volt mains 3. Contact Qidi to get a new power board for the chamber heater 4. Install that new power board or find or pay someone to install it for me then a 759 US dollar 3D printer will be as specified

[@NoizieWorks]

Something like that or and that's what i would recommend, wait a few months on the new batch.

[@nickynorton]

For QIDI they need to make the discharge duct 2X the thickness of the bed edge Silly that the unit is glued I would take a dremmel and cut UP 20-30 mm

[@802Garage]

What's extra strange is the outlet is taller than the bed edge, but there's a divider flap of sorts inside that basically cuts it in half. I'm assuming the didn't want the hot air touching all the way down to the bottom of the duct and hitting a wall, but that flap could have been a later revision as well which is now causing the issue. It's definitely an easy fix one way or another.

[@NoizieWorks]

@@802Garage yup, i think even drilling some extra holes would be enough

[@Maschine_Fuhrer]

Todays update fixed this. At least thats what description said.

[@brandonberkmortel9558]

Thanks for the solution. Im hoping qidi at least releases a firmware soon that will have this fix as a temporary solution so everyone gets it OTA . Loving my plus 4 so far tho. Print quality is great.

[@NoizieWorks]

Great machine, sadly feels a bit rushed.

[@DK-vx1zc]

Thank you for all of your efforts!

[@jamesclay2584]

would Drilled holes between the rails on the side of the bed ( allowing air to flow better under the bed), correct the issue w/o damaging the bed, allowing max height build?

[@NoizieWorks]

@jamesclay2584 I would not attempt something like that, if you have a bit of patience then you will probably like the new shroud that's in the last phase of testing. This weekend is should be ready to post it

[@ChrumkavySuchar]

Uff, I would be so pissed to lost a print like this :D . Crazy. But Qidi have kinda good reputation of fixing stuff, so, i am curious how they will patch this up :)

[@NoizieWorks]

@ChrumkavySuchar Me too. I forwarded this to my contact so he will be very happy to hear me again 😅

[@helixxharpell]

Looking back on this video, we're all lucky the Plus4 didn't catch fire! Hopefully Qidis will be sending out new relay boards soon!

[@NoizieWorks]

@helixxharpell i got an update, don't expect new boards. Apparently the power setting was incorrect from the start and they never wanted it to be this high of an output. They are not planning to change the power setting in the future so .4 it is.

[@helixxharpell]

​@NoizieWorks That's not what the folks over on Reddit are saying. Qidi doesn't have the correct relays spec'd and just a firmware change won't make it safer. I would scan both Qidi subreddits for all our posts on this. Thank you for all you do btw! *Hillbilly Engineer*

[@NoizieWorks]

@@helixxharpell Ow i am brother and it's going to get adressed in my new chamber heater video. I agree that the ssr is the problem and not the output power, why would you power limit a ptc heater to less then 1/3 right? Another cheap "fix'

[@helixxharpell]

​@NoizieWorks Exactly! Firmware adjustments can't make up for poorly spec'd parts! FIRE SAFETY CANNOT BE TAKEN LIGHTLY! 😮 And I can't say enough great things about you guys who catch these things. 😃👍🏻

[@NoizieWorks]

@helixxharpell thank you, i appreciate the compliment. It's a community effort for sure keeping them accountable. I actually mentioned it on a video i shared in my community tab. Reviewers need to start making time to follow up more over time and the video topic just nailed it. I honestly don't know how some channels can keep posting so many reviews on a short window without getting brainfarts left and right.

[@THEMANCAVE2023]

So I removed heater and modified heater exit duct seems to.work now

[@NoizieWorks]

Is it glued in? Did you take pictures you can share and how easy is it to take it out? Insta,fb or email if you fancy a chat

[@rorywquin]

good catch

[@NoizieWorks]

@@rorywquin not mine but a catch indeed

[@mocarver]

If Qidi begins to ship new 4 Plus units with all the issues resolved that you created vids about, how would a would be buyer know?

[@802Garage]

They wouldn't. It will just work. 😂

[@NoizieWorks]

It would definitely make my life easier 😆

[@redcupra]

great video agian is there any chance you can a step by step gide to level bed thanks

[@NoizieWorks]

thanks bud! you can see mee do it in the first video. It's basicly following the steps and turn the knobs until you have resistance on the paper.

[@werpu12]

As far as I can see is that this is a huge design mistake, taking the plate away also is counter productive because the hot air then would go straight into the print material maybe causing stringing and deformation, the only way would be to route the air flow differently which of course would need a wider chamber to add some kind of hose to move the air into another direction. Also making it slightly wider to leave a gap between the metal plate and the vent would be the best solution to fix this, but apparently they did not want to change the design, you probably can retrofit it with a hack on the case to add a bulk and move the heating element slightly out of the old case and leaving a bigger hole open! and introduce a gap! or by widening the case which probably would be the best fix anyway Qidi probably added the plate as a quick fix last minute but the engineers did not think about the repercussions of blocking the heating vent entirely.Either way until someone fixes it probably turning off the heating element might be the best solution the heatplate itself can retain some temperature, some people added fans to their Bambus to get a better heat distribution and let the heat plate do its job. Might also be a hack, if your print becomes bigger simply only use the plate and add a fan!

[@NoizieWorks]

@@werpu12 they "fixed" it in a firmware update today. It's in the comments tab.

[@THEMANCAVE2023]

Just tested some Peek-a bench works well

[@NoizieWorks]

Did you answer my previous question? Didn't show if you did but is the fan glued in like they say?

[@sethputrelo3748]

Thanks for this. I've been waffling on ordering one of these, but with the bearing issue and now this, I'm holding off for now.

[@NoizieWorks]

It's again nothing that can't be fixed but unfortunate nonetheless

[@KevThaBest]

Considering everything up to this point, would you recommend the Plus 4, or the Q1 pro for a great all around(quality/speed/ multi filament type) first printer? Currently have a Neptune 4 pro and it’s been amazing but the quality isn’t really there (could be my tune however). Or would you recommend going to Bambi? Thank you!

[@NoizieWorks]

@@KevThaBest all depends on the size, you want bigger qidi if not both good options

[@JTs3DPrints]

@@KevThaBest Have both without doubt Plus4. Both are good printers but Plus 4 footprint so much better and something to be said about glass

[@DaltoeMusic]

Thanks for your amazing advice and videos! I am a complete novice with 3D printing and decided to purchase the Qidi Plus 4. My first two prints on the machine were amazing... but unfortunately my third print failed because of the following G-Code error message... "gcode error:!! Error evaluating 'gcode macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'polygon'." I can't figure out if it is purely a bed mesh problem, or an issue with the sliced file (or both). I have restarted the machine, reset factory defaults, calibrating a new bed mesh and even tried creating a completely new slice file... but nothing seems to be working! I suspect it might be an issue with the slicing gcode (and not the printer hardware). I tested this by running a volumetric flow test model and it started printing just fine before cancelling the print. I would really appreciate help with this so I can start the print asap. Happy to share logs and files if that helps. Thanks a bunch!!

[@NoizieWorks]

Hi dude! What slicer are you using?

[@DaltoeMusic]

G'day @@NoizieWorks I have been using Qidi Studio... But I think I found the issue/s. I managed to mess up the bed mesh calibration file and uploaded the original printer.config file. However, I think the main issue was actually the file name and /or associated folder names. For some reason I decided to use a "#" in the STL file name, which was translated to the 3MF and g-code files. Changing the file name and performing a new auto level seems to have worked. The job is currently printing, but I think the Z axis is still a fraction too high. Now I am trying to figure out how to properly re-home the bed to get a good z-offset. Thanks so much for replying! I was starting to lose my mind 😂

[@NoizieWorks]

@DaltoeMusic strange characters are a no go on these type of deals for sure! You can set the Z offset during the print, it remembers that value an i have set it to -0.04mm on mine.

[@DaltoeMusic]

Thanks dude! I will try that and see how it's goes. Keep up the good work, you're a champion for helping others like this. Cheers

[@NoizieWorks]

@DaltoeMusic Thanks bud! I love what i do, no biggy 😉

[@Wrangler11]

As I am a newb to 3D printing and this is my first printer please forgive any mistakes I am making here. I received this printer 1 week ago so some updates may have already happened. The heater on my unit is attached via a screw or the top of it. At the air outlet on the heater it is slip horizontally pushing most of the heated air is pushed out of the lower part of the register a lesser amount of heated air flows out the upper part of the register which is open to the upper area of the sheet metal support under the print base. Additionally the wires no longer are catching on the protrusion on the right side as it has been smoothed down flush with the right side.

[@NoizieWorks]

Good to know! I also have a screw on top and i think you could take the cover off but the fan itself is glued in. Or at least that's what somebody told me didn't check myself.

[@PVCLime]

Thanks! Have one of these on my way. Probably by friday. Has you say, I will not print anything past 270 untill I do :P Think this printer has everything amd is doing great! Looking forward to build finished products in Nylon!

[@NoizieWorks]

Put the code on it and you don't have to throw the dice. Spoiler alert, somebody already lost lol

[@b3owu1f]

So.. I am just turning on my chamber.. to pre heart. Within 15 seconds.. the chamber shows 140c and then I get this ADC out of range error and shuts down printer. WTF is going on with this? Is this a sensor malfunction and I got one of the bad sensor printers? Just got my printer too. Only got a couple prints and this keeps happening now. I was going to change my printer.cfg to 180 or something.. because I dont know why its tripping so fast.

[@NoizieWorks]

@b3owu1f are you talking about the chamber protection sensor? Could be that it came loose and is touching the heatsink.

[@JohnDoe-ot5ir]

I must of did something wrong because when I did this, my printer would no longer print. It stopped before bed level and would just idle with nozzle at 140 degrees. I'll try again as I'm sure it's something I did. Thanks for the info

[@NoizieWorks]

@JohnDoe-ot5ir waiting for filament? There needs be be filament in the printhead and push the cutter so that's the only filament it will use to test this out.

[@OZtwo]

Yeah I was wondering about that as I saw it as some issue down the line. On another possible issue: on the left side we have the power connector on the main plate. It is rubbing on a screw. Have you seen any issue with that? (Edit: sorry, but you didn't show us how/if it works by doing the same 270 plate level print?)

[@NoizieWorks]

the bed cable is rubbing on a stud on the right and the aux fan if that's what you mean. So far not an issue with 200 hours on it. On the left there is only power to the fan.

[@NoizieWorks]

btw, your in the fb group to right?

[@OZtwo]

@@NoizieWorks (well, looking at pictures here so left could be right..but thanks..only 5 more months until I buy it! find all issues :) )

[@OZtwo]

@@NoizieWorks Yes. JM :)

[@NoizieWorks]

@@OZtwo imo i would also wait it out, especially with this now. Very interested now in the qid box! Hope they send me one early this time, so far it's a we have no info... So anybody claiming anything is wrong. Q1 that's it.

[@arjanlenoir5058]

I think this needs a redesign of the channel and/or heater position. I should not be too difficult to make that air to flow elsewhere without any negative effect on the chamber heating.

[@NoizieWorks]

@@arjanlenoir5058 i made a redesign brother, kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpSspn6YZdB7jaM

[@arjanlenoir5058]

@NoizieWorks I see now. I am a little behind on your channel I guess ;-)

[@NoizieWorks]

@arjanlenoir5058 take all the time you need, i run a giveaway at the moment so be sure to enter it!

[@willofthemaker]

Thanks for this. Was hoping to wait but within 4 weeks all my other printers started having random problems. Ukmed the trigger and just got it set up. Crazy they didnt think this through. Why cant this be fixed with firmware? Im at least thinking the software fix to turn off the heater would be a firmware band aid fix. Obviously a new vent design is needed at the hardware level for a proper fix

[@NoizieWorks]

It can if you drop the buildheight with 10mm but i think that's not what we want. Unless there is some magical klipper setting or just disabling the safety feature all together which is also not an option. I don't speak klipper so maybe they can do something but a re design is the way to go i think. At least there is a temporary fix.

[@Wrangler11]

Your information is wonderful and I appreciate everything you are doing to keep us informed. When given us technical information could you please slow down so that we can understand what you are saying and apply the information ourselves. Than you.

[@NoizieWorks]

Thank you and got it!

[@Jerrie-Lenore]

The KZbin video speed modifier works great for this. Have used it many times for follow along work!

[@TheScottcool]

Wow so glad i did'nt buy this , so riddled with problems , might buy once they have fixed all the problems people are having with this printer.

[@martinskamla6789]

How this gets missed is wild…. Like All this would need is a test print of the full volume

[@NoizieWorks]

Pretty much, not even an actual print. I have done it with no filament untill then just to test it and yup! It's a problem

[@theFPVgeek]

More chamber heater-related issues BUT now a bigger problem than this. Looks like 110v users have a potential fire hazard. SSRs are burning up because when using 110v the SSR can overheat and burn up b/c it's a 220v spec'd board. Using 110v cause too much of an amp draw burning up the related board. Qidi released a "fix," which is basically a hack to circumvent the hardware issue. The new firmware restricts the chamber heater output to 40%. Supposedly previously it was capped at 70%. What sucks what happens to those 110v users that don't know about this??? I heard an email went out to 110v customers but I know I didn't receive one and I purchased direct. I just happen to be lurking Qidi social media groups as saw the issue.

[@NoizieWorks]

I'm aware and i will adress it early next week

[@802Garage]

Already "fixed" by the firmware update, but a far from ideal solution honestly. Should at least be safe, but slower to heat.

[@theFPVgeek]

@@802Garage yeah saw that but like you said, IMO, "far from ideal." I believe it's a temporary solution with a disaster waiting to happen if Qidi doesn't address this correctly. What if a 110v user doesn't continuously monitor social media and or update their firmware often? They have a high probability of burning their printer up or, much worse, burning things down around the printer. You cannot trust safety through software. What if an update accidentally removes that restriction? A minor software update oversight can have huge implications....remember the Crowdstrike update, if you don't look it up. It's not 3D printer related, but still.

[@NoizieWorks]

@theFPVgeek Highly aware of it, everything will be addressed in the video 😉

[@802Garage]

@@theFPVgeek While I think you are catastrophizing a bit in this particular scenario, I agree with many of your points and addressed the same concerns to Qidi around allowing users to continue using old boards and that they can't rely on users updating firmware. I told them they should essentially contact every buyer and make such updates mandatory. They told me they have contacted all buyers and told them to update as well as to request replacement boards and heaters if they have any issues. To be honest there isn't a huge amount more they can do, since anyone who doesn't get the message wouldn't for any other type of recall. The one step further they probably should take is publicly announcing the issue, which I think they should. I told them they need to be one step ahead of social media on this. We'll see if it matters or not. Trust me we have been talking about your same concerns for many days now on the Disk-chord as well as finding solutions. They can't undo shipping out the printers, but they are at least shipping out free parts to anyone and the firmware fix should be a permanent fix even if I would prefer a different fix. The Q1 Pro uses the same heater board and they have no issues with burning up, so as long as the overall power draw isn't far greater it should be reliable. Time will tell.

[@DANIELGENG-v5o]

This makes me wonder if companies like Qidi even test their machines or if they just rush them to the market.

[@NoizieWorks]

@DANIELGENG-v5o I think the main problem is the lack of beta testers but to be fair, this is just one of those things you just stumble on the crap way. Engineers on the other hand should know better then this.

[@Kumonte]

​@NoizieWorks first thanks for the videos , second - this happens to most companies , at least from time to time, iPhone 16 having issues , remember Samsung ?... bmw , Volkswagen, windows.... I'm saying this probably because i haven't had any issues with mine 😅. But your work is very important and useful so thank you again. Going to drill holes now 😅

[@DANIELGENG-v5o]

@@NoizieWorks True

[@DANIELGENG-v5o]

@@Kumonte Good point, but I mean if bambu lab can have the urge to delay the new printer to Q1 of 2025, I wouldn't see why these companies won't just give a little more time into it. Honestly, the Q1 Pro right now has the best quality in my opinion. The plus 4 print quality (to be honest) isn't even that good.

[@NoizieWorks]

Yeah the printhead is very heavy if i have to point my finger to something. Inputshaper results are not that great.

[@colencasey7761]

why not just drill a couple of holes in the sides of the heating duct

[@Maschine_Fuhrer]

😮

[@NoizieWorks]

@@colencasey7761 feel free to try it out and share these findings

[@jonathan2966]

I'm surprised no one is talking about the X and Y drivers, which are permanently at over 100°C. It seems clear to me that there's a lack of cooling on the motherboard, no? At least for the life of these.

[@nickynorton]

The TMC2240 has an internal thermal protection. If the die temperature exceeds 165°C (typical value), a fault indication a fault flag (ot in DRV_STATUS) is raised and the driver is three-stated until the junction temperature drops below approximately 145°C (typical value). After that, the driver is re-enabled

[@NoizieWorks]

they are rated to work in higher temps so technically it's fine, from what i hear 160c

[@Jerrie-Lenore]

There is a plate replacement mod to put in an 80mm board fan, quiet and cool!

[@jonathan2966]

@@Jerrie-Lenore Even if these drivers support 100°, I would definitely do this mod!

[@warmfreeze]

2800+ hours on my q1 pro and i have NEVER maxed my Z height yet.. so i see this as a non-issue for 99.8% of people..

[@NoizieWorks]

@warmfreeze That's a correct observation

[@ClickyCraft]

👍👍👍

[@SimonPlatten]

I got a QIDI Plus 4 today, I cannot load filament, something is stopping it from getting from the outside of the printer to the inside PTFE tube.

[@NoizieWorks]

Did you place the small bit of ptfe tube that came with the printer in the hole as mentioned in the instructions? If so it's blocked with something. Maybe the tangle sensor is defective.

[@SimonPlatten]

@@NoizieWorks I couldn't find the PTFE tube with the printer, I searched the box and packaging, couldn't see it, however I have since solved that issue by cutting the filament and trying again.

[@NoizieWorks]

@@SimonPlatten great

[@SimonPlatten]

New problem now, I have both QIDISlicer and OrcaSlicer, both are doing the same I import an STL file which almost fills the plate, but when I export it to gcode and try to print, what I get is scaled to a fraction of the required size, what could explain this?

[@jochenmeulenyzer4302]

Dag Yves ;-)

[@NoizieWorks]

Dag Jochen! Nu weet je waarom het er zo uit ziet 😉

[@marek5812]

Just cut a piece of plastic on the side to make an extra exit when the front is blocked. No thanks, no need.

[@bombswabs3041]

Did you mean "Design flaw" ?

[@NoizieWorks]

Yes thank you lol adjusted!

[@motordude67]

The good old "fix your new printer yourself" routine. Looking forward to the new Bambu with their "works at it should right out of the box" philosophy.

[@NoizieWorks]

@motordude67 I hope it is, probably going to pay for it to.

[@gemrough]

So stick with Bambu… got it!!

[@NoizieWorks]

@@gemrough that's another way to put it 😆

[@frankthebum]

the machine is a fire hazard !!! My SSR started to smoke like Cheech&Chong when i turned on ther chamber heater from the dryer settings !!!!

[@NoizieWorks]

@frankthebum1061 sounds like a defective ssr but not good at all! Wrong voltage setting psu?

[@Patriot1790]

1. Why would they not test this. That's just un-excusable. 2. This is why I never buy a printer at release.

[@NoizieWorks]

No clue and i agree! Burned hard on the K1 in the day.

[@802Garage]

At least it has a thermal runaway sensor!

[@Tom-wp9ix]

That doesn’t sound like a fix bro all you did is turn off the heater. So this thing doesn’t print 305x305 and it doesn’t print 280 tall. You also had to fix other parts? Why would anyone buy this

[@NoizieWorks]

@Tom-wp9ix I'm just the messenger brother, you rather waste a day/spool trying to find it out yourself? Until there is a decent fix, this should at least help you make the 280mm. It's up to qidi imo to do something about it and come up with solid a solution.

[@Tom-wp9ix]

@@NoizieWorks I’m agreeing with you! I can’t believe they didn’t test this. They should recall these and get it all fixed

[@NoizieWorks]

@@Tom-wp9ix recall isn't necessary but a revision with parts send to the first batch owners would be nice.

[@802Garage]

You could still print 280 tall, including something that requires the chamber heater. Unless you have something with very large layers with a particularly difficult filament in the last 15-20mm it's very unlikely to cause issues. Still a big annoyance though especially for those who won't know about this problem before losing a print.

[@somhunt5446]

@@802Garage could not have said it better, this is the measured response for Plus 4 owners. Noizie explained the situation and potential solutions for the current build and future heater flow improvements. Yes, QIDI should have done a better FMECA. Granted the solution Noize demonstrated by the community will more than suffice to complete a print > 277mm in height due to the residual heat within the chamber.

[@Doc_Fitz]

Your solutions are to complicated. All Qidi lawyers have to do is send new stickers for the front of the build plate 305* 305* 270 mm. and changes their advertising.

[@NoizieWorks]

You are right! Not to 270 but a design change in the heater is necessary

[@freedomofmotion]

Absolute madness. Compounded by the fact that it's glued in. Why wouldn't they design it with side ventilation? 😂 I'm still happy with the printer but no wonder it's so cheap for the specification. Saves money by not testing it 😅

[@NoizieWorks]

Community FTW!

[@ClickyCraft]

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