The Best Engine Degreaser??? Gunk vs Walmart vs Motor Medic vs CRC and More...

[@RepairGeek]

Here are links to the products that I used in this video: CRC "Pro-Strength": amzn.to/3zoouZl Gunk Foam: amzn.to/3ktSqNj Gunk Original: amzn.to/2WvB76F My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same. I source all of my service data from the same place that professional shops do. You can as well: www.pntrac.com/t/SENKSUZKRktD...

[@carcinogenic5297]

Hi, any chance to send a link of the last iterm which motor medic spray paint please bcz I couldn't find it online to buy it. Thanks

[@RadioReprised]

Autozone, checker and o' Reilly's are all owned by the same company so it makes sense they are the same chemicals.

[@billcrisp1804]

@@carcinogenic5297 Just looked it up (Jul '24) and Advance Auto carries it. $3.99 on sale. Also looks to be marketed as Valvoline Pyroil Engine Degreaser, same price

[@markm0000]

Motor Medic doesn’t sell that degreaser anymore. It’s a rebadged can of Gunk original. It was cheap because there’re just getting rid of inventory. Anyways I looked up the MSDS on the Gunk original and it’s pretty much 90% Diesel and 10% Kerosene.

[@summerforever6736]

So we could just go diesel and kerosene and mix it at home??

[@markm0000]

@@summerforever6736 Nah just diesel on a rag is fine to get grunge off parts. Then if you want spray a little brake clean to make them super clean. That’s what I’ve been doing for a while now and it’s perfectly fine.

[@Cherokee93]

@@markm0000so I could just put diesel in a spray bottle it’ll work just as good?

[@dannaocana5507]

⁠@@markm0000brake cleaner gets toxic at high temperatures tho, careful.

[@pavel9652]

You are the hero we don't deserve! 😎 I just watched dozens of your videos, starting from rust treatment to head gasket diagnosis and replacement, and I am blown away by your knowledge! Live long and prosper!

[@motto58]

Great report, Repair Geek! Excellent research as far as I can tell. Keeping as many parameters constant as possible, comparing performance objectively, and ranking on price if needed. Well done. I am so grateful! And telling how it is, i.e. using just diesel and kero to improvise, proves you're not tied to any manufacturer or brand! Really rare these days, hope folk recognize this! I, as some others, of course, we all would want to see more: e.g. how do these products perform on "baked-on" oils and grease. Hey critics: if you don't find people who do it for you, why don't YOU do it and publish your results? Merry Xmas, Matthias.

[@donaldspeck9212]

Suggestion Try your test on heat baked grease/oils. Just like on a engine block

[@ahole5407]

MEK is your friend

[@FreeYourBrains]

I totally agree, back in Europe when i was little all the mechanics would wash dirty motor parts in a 50/50 blend of gasoline and diesel

[@rhoodj]

Hahahaha 😮😂 old school are better most of time

[@kstimberwolf1588]

Great info !! It would be so hard to accurately reproduce real world gunk under the hood. However you did as best as you could without going to a junk yard to do this test. Good job!!

[@SmlyWenr]

I’d say a good way of simulating the under the hood conditions would be to get it hot enough to bake on

[@WickedG5150]

@@SmlyWenr Yes, you can even use OVEN CLEANER and get the same results!

[@All-about-everything]

@@SmlyWenr exactly. Which means this a useless experiment

[@cheifDeisel]

Excellent video and I like how you tested more than just the effectiveness of the cleaner but also it's effects on different materials that it may come into contact with. That said, I'd like to address a couple possible flaws in your methodology. First, I would have primed the test pieces and allowed the paint to fully cure in order to more accurately simulate an automotive finish. The difference in hardness and adhesion between a one day old paint job and a one week old paint job is staggering. In all likelihood, none of those degreasers would have even dulled the gloss on a primed and cured paint job. Second, I would have followed the manufacturers instructions for the use of each product. Settling on a 5-minute working time for all products really only makes sense if the end user is the type of person who's going to let it sit on there for 5 minutes, regardless of what the instructions on the back of the bottle say. Those people are dummies and I feel safe in saying that because they're not here. Anyone watching this video is going to follow the directions on the back of the bottle. That's why they're here, they're intelligent, inquisitive and they want the best results. Third, I would have baked on the grime slurry. That stuff's not hard to remove just because it's inherently sticky or sludgy, it's hard to remove because it gets baked on. You don't have to hit it with a blowtorch, although I suspect that would remove a good deal of it in itself, but a couple 1 hour sessions in the toaster oven at about 200°F would have really done the trick to get it good and stuck and would've more accurately represented real life under the hood conditions. Again, great video. I look forward to hopefully seeing an updated version of these tests.

[@Maxxis1941]

Super Clean foam would have ranked #1 (by far) if you'd tested it. Extra benefit to it: it's VOC free and biodegradable.

[@christopherdominguez845]

Does it mess with the rubber?

[@Maxxis1941]

​@@christopherdominguez845 Nope. Rubber is fine with it since it's VOC free/free of chemicals that'll eat rubber.

[@Eye_4_An_Eye]

Why is this important? Well, because your engine has three main things: paint, rubber and aluminum. This is the perfect video to know what will and won't harm your car. Excellent testing especially for rubber because of hoses and gromits and what not. Made me feel confident about cleaning my engine now

[@specialks1953]

I appreciate your dedication and your efforts on this but... Nothing I ever want to degrease is fresh sludge. I want to know what works on real, old world, engine block and other frame surface like I have under the hoods that I own or work on. Thank you for your video and the information you shared here! Many good points and much information but not much benefit for cleaning OLD crap off an OLD engine or surrounding frame work. I still give a thumb up.

[@RepairGeek]

It crossed my mind to put that metal plate in my oven and bake it. Unfortunately I would have been killed by my fiancee before this video ever went live.

[@missnickelbee7789]

@@RepairGeek LOL.. OMG you are a Keeper!!

[@taylormaid6721]

@@RepairGeek lol, i wouldve used a heat gun, heater or blow dryer. I was actually waiting on you to say you would be heating it dry a bit. who knows maybe you have or will in the future.

[@haydenb8853]

​@@RepairGeektoaster oven from thrift store

[@ashokmoghe8035]

Great way to showcase the tests and results. I like that after going into the details of the methodology, you directly jumped into sharing the ranking accompanied by the corresponding results footage. Unlike some other channels that put you through watching all the test footage before sharing the conclusions, I like your style. Keep up and waiting for more videos.

[@BBBILLY86]

Great post! I have 4 motors to degrease. Olds 350, chevy 350, 454 and 305. 3 on the stands and 1 in the car. Overwhelmed by the task and potential cost. This helped out big time!!!!.

[@joelquaintance9025]

Good comparison test. I wish that more KZbin videos were as honest and informative. Too many are advertisements.

[@junkyardsearcher6407]

I also love your channel, I found it yesterday and haven’t been able to turn away from these product comparisons! Thanks!

[@williamcolson3765]

I just used gunk on my old truck...did spray with water or anything, I wiped with clean clothes & was very pleased...the grease came of. However, I like your tests and will test others,too. Thanks for your efforts!

[@hexdmy1089]

You guys are missing one important detail , yes these degreasers have diesel and / or kerosine but they also have an emulsifier so that they will disperse or can be “rinsed off” with water. That’s why it turns white when you rinse . Not sure if they still sell it but Gunk used to sell a concentrate that you could mix yourself with solvent or kerosine or diesel.

[@jeffgriffith7003]

I deal mostly in baked on deposits and the gel type Gunk Engine degreaser is top notch and Easy Off oven cleaner seems to be even stronger.

[@DonKelleyMusic]

This is AMAZING! You should have a million likes for such a thorough, scientific analysis!

[@creditrepairwizards]

Mixing kerosene and diesel 50/50 can be useful for cleaning purposes, especially for removing heavy grease and grime. Here’s a simple guide to help you mix them safely: Gather Materials: Kerosene Diesel A clean container (preferably metal or plastic) A funnel (optional) Mixing Ratio: A common ratio for cleaning purposes is 50% kerosene and 50% diesel1. This mixture is effective for cleaning and degreasing. Mixing Process: Pour the kerosene into the container first. Slowly add the diesel while stirring the mixture constantly to ensure it is well combined. Safety Precautions: Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes. Wear protective gloves and eyewear to prevent skin and eye contact. Keep the mixture away from open flames or sparks as both kerosene and diesel are flammable. Application: Apply the mixture to the surface you want to clean using a brush or cloth. Allow it to sit for a few minutes to break down the grease and grime. Wipe off the residue with a clean cloth or rinse with water if appropriate.

[@mattrowan2680]

Great job again! I couldn't find any of the Motor Medic in stock anywhere. Another poster mentioned that MM doesn't make it any longer. So have to go with with the Gunk...but I've been using the Gunk for a long time so it's an old friend. And you're right ... it definitely is stinky.

[@RepairGeek]

I looked high and low for links to it with out much success.

[@jean-pierredejon5696]

I just bought the last can of motor medic on the shelf at my Walmart in brandon Florida today.

[@91rss]

diesel and dunk 50/50 mix, the gunk allows the mix to rinse off, or diesel first then gunk. Orielys used to be dry cleaning fluid,, works great for stains on clothes.

[@amc31b]

Cool video. I use super clean all purpose cleaner degreaser mixed at 2:1 with water rather than anything in a can.

[@1stChaCha]

A motor would bake all that grime on. But I love that you did the 24-hour test!!

[@leemarchant7191]

Thanks for doing this! Really appreciate this and the brake parts cleaner. One that I would be curious about is Schaeffer Citrol and how it fits in.

[@steveseger5642]

Great video. I tried them all, and Gunk Original is the best.

[@garysimmons5520]

I used to use a cheap kerosene based cleaner when my engine was pretty dirty then I'd use simple green to maintain.... thanks for the test

[@kevinisawake]

JUST BOUGHT SOME GUNK - Thanks Brother for the video. You are my brother bro. Anytime.

[@hertzer2000]

Mighty Boss is great. I get this shit called Tornado 50 from St. Albans, WV. It beats anything I've ever used. Have a nice day.

[@james10739]

I never felt like that stuff helped much it seems like the pressure washer is doing almost all the work

[@AWIERD1]

I think giving an average time to all the brands was a mistake because of different formulations have different consistencies which would effect the test results. After all your testing which cleaner cleans best not what's best in ten minutes.

[@RalphGohl]

Try paint thinner or varsol in a spray bottle. Better than all those commercial products and won't damage paint a bit.

[@mediocreman2]

Purple power and oven cleaner would be interesting to test

[@shaun8256]

Dawn! Great controlled test now let's see a real world test.

[@GainingDespair]

Yeah, super tech spray is trash Bought some because it was $1.50 cheaper than Gunk when I was at the store. Not only did the product not do anything, it screwed up my painted valve cover like yours showed. At first I wondered if it was always like that, but when I rubbed my hand on the back side of the cover it was perfectly smooth where as it felt, and looked bubbly on the front and sides =/ This upsets me, wish I new before hand lol

[@mcjok88]

RG, great, practical review. Concise and clear. Thank you.

[@ronspencer676]

You can actually do the same thing with regular ol wd-40 its a patroleum based lube/rust breaker and almost immediately devolves grease. But it also leaves a greasey smeary finish Best to just leave it soak in then hit it with a power wash or hose But engine degreaser and oven cleaner do ok too lol

[@Void_777]

Thanks, you saved me & a lot of other people time, money & problems.💯🤝

[@sacalvetti]

Thanks again for this video. I Love to see comparisons, because the evidence is right before your eyes!! ;) The time you invested into doing this research and comparison is definitely Greatly appreciated! God bless!! ~ Sarah

[@FreedomLovinLady]

nice job, very informative. I wonder how simple green and purple power would fair in these tests. Those seem to be the main ones not tested. I also use hot soapy water (with degreasing dish soap), no way this can hurt the rubber, plastic and metal parts. Thanks for your efforts 😊😊💖

[@katiedotson704]

I really need to clean the entire engine bay and undercarriage of my 1st Gen and you just confirmed my thoughts. Star off with the kerosene/diesel and let it soak for few minutes. The use Dawn dish detergent to remove the kerosene/diesel and hopefully the undesirable, self-manifesting, coat of ugly will leave also.

[@FreedomLovinLady]

@@katiedotson704 I cleaned my 1st gen Tundra engine bay a couple of weeks ago and used a process similar to the Chris Fix method (he has a good video on it) to make sure I didn't hurt anything. It's not complete as I had a leaking valve cover gasket that has since been fixed. Mostly I used the warm soapy water so far, but now I'm going to go back and finish getting the oil from under the valve cover area and down to the manifold. I'll use a degreaser and then warm soapy water to get the bottom areas. I cleaned all the items I could reach, painted areas, plastic, and metal and then shined each one with non greasy plastic protectant, waterless paint wax or a bit of Mother's chrome silver polish or a wire wheel (each cleaner to its intended area) ... and the results are very nice, it looks so much closer to the engine I remember from back when it was new. No mechanic spills or road grime, it's not perfect but wow it looks so much better. Next time I'll get some longer reach brushes to get the parts out of my reach. Us girls have to work a but harder to get to everything under the hood it feels like, but that's OK, a reliable and great looking truck is worth it. I even replaced the cold air intake system and cleaned the throttle body while I was in there and will be replacing the spark plugs this week. 149k miles is just warning up for a Toyota 🙋‍♀️💖😊

[@katiedotson704]

@@FreedomLovinLady My 30 yr old girl just turned over 300K. I rebuilt the starter last year and at this point I have the alternator on my bench. I should have already had it back on but the thought of scrubbing, sanding, and painting it came to mind. I had almost talked myself out of it til I found out there is a paint color called Cummins Beige. Now, I couldn’t turn that down. Then one thing led to another. I don’t know if others think it’s a good idea, but any time I replace or repair a part that is external to the engine, I use a paint pen and write the date and mileage on the part for future reference. I’m changing the interior color and am planning on taking the dash cover out to paint it after alternator gets back in. I’m trying to talk myself out of painting valve cover but I’m pretty sure I know how that’s gonna go. You wouldn’t happen to know where I could get a Truck Bidet for a reasonable price, would you? 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@FreedomLovinLady]

@@katiedotson704 wow 300k and 30 years on the road, that's great, writing the dates on parts sounds like a good idea, i also keep a file of reciepts and write notes in the toyota maintenence book that came with the truck from the factory. you might get the valve covers powder coated instead of painting them, it's supposed to keep temps under the hood down more and help efficiency (plus it looks looks way cool and protects the parts) my next big project is to get the roof painted before summer heat sets in, an injury a few years ago got me behind on polishing and waxing, so i must repaint the roof before it decides to chip or peal which is way worse than just having worn down clear coat... oh well, nobody is prefect and the truck still runs crazy good 😊🙋‍♀️💖🥳🇺🇲

[@JG-zb7om]

Very useful information. Thank you! Please keep making videos.

[@99Isopropyl]

Can't thank you enough for doing these tests.

[@troybrake5686]

Kerosene and wire brush is what we always used and it always worked

[@Atlas.X9X]

Great test, I appreciate the details. Thanks for sharing.

[@JK-Handyman]

great job on the video! keep up the good reviewing!

[@catfisher420]

You should mix dirt with your gunk mixture and then bake it on each piece at 400°.

[@TheGoodMedicine]

K2 AKRA 770 ML (K177) - engine cleaner nothing beats this

[@godbluffvdgg]

Thanks for the reviews...If I can find the motor medic :boom, The Gunk is next...:)

[@brianamaez8505]

Great job good sir!, liked the whole experiment step

[@JeffJetton-v5m]

You videos are awesome. Keep up the good work.

[@timothynewkirk2654]

As a kid in the 50s you could buy Gunk but you had to add your own karocine. Newk from Kentucky

[@KJfreshh69]

Should of let the panel dry for weeks so it sets hard. I need a degreaser for cleaning gas and oil trucks. Haven’t found anything yet that works

[@caseyrobinette805]

Solid video 👍🏻

[@guyfroml]

Great video, thorough testing. Thanks!

[@christinadenkins2817]

Thank You for your time and this video !!!

[@jasonp3253]

Just a suggestion, easyoff oven cleaner and simple green. Also, try baking these at about 500 degrees for 30min to make it harder.

[@RepairGeek]

You willing to supply the oven because my fiance wasn't 🤣

[@davidnelson6893]

@@RepairGeek HA

[@HonestLivingLLC]

Really good review and research appreciate that.

[@josh33025]

Nice I got alot of those og gunk cans so I picked the right one!

[@fretho8410]

Not exactly a revelation thar acetone and kerosene works well dissolving oil and grease. Would like to see a part 2 with only non-VOC degreasers, including Bilt Hamber Surfex HD.

[@letsdosomething6691]

Can you test these all again on copper wire, wire sheathing, cast iron, and steal please? This video was awesome btw.

[@sewingmachinemastery]

Great video, may I ask you How to clean engine safety if the can contain 90% diesel and kerosene?

[@TheRogerKyle]

What's not safe about diesel or kerosene? Gunk directions say to spray down with water after

[@mrjoehimself]

Thorough, love it, thank you!

[@ItsmeDelS.C.born1966]

So with the O'Reilly just make sure you rinse it off good then it won't do anything to the rubber just don't let it sit 24 hours?

[@stans5270]

45 years ago at the garage that I worked at, used kerosene in their Safety-Kleen parts cleaner bath. The owner wouldn't spring for the Safety-Kleen brand cleaner.

[@24ozz]

Can i use these products to clean pulleys? My power steering exploded and there gunk all in the pulleys.

[@MindDezign]

Great great video! I use foaming tire cleaner for engine cleaner

[@TheRogerKyle]

Really? Does it cut heavy oil crud?

[@GTRJASON77]

Great review!

[@andrewbentley1136]

Wish panels had been heated before trying to clean...also like to see heated bare cast aluminum. Have a pulled aluminum LB that is caked in oil. Pressure washed with hot water and trying to clean and so far only used strait simple green but going to get the Pro HD SG. Also going to try fast orange on it as what I have. B12 works but evaporates so fast and not trying to poison yard so something like SG or Dawn be ideal. Either way TU for vid. Thanks! ...edit Dawn ended up working best as initial cleaner. Have to brush using small fingernail like cleaner brush and toothbrush but want it as clean as possible before teardown.

[@ThomasNappo]

Great job...well done😊

[@jasonmorales5408]

Excellent video 👏🏽👏🏽

[@caseycallender845]

I wouldn't want to spray the kerosene diesel stuff on anything under the hood. Yeah, it will clean. But dirt sticks to diesel and kerosene very very well. The next cleaning is going to be a duzy..

[@notSusNugget]

Brilliant video

[@thor777mx]

Pretty sure you used oreillys spraying clip for the autozone comparison? So oreillys is better?

[@joecox9958]

many thanks! but you get to use a table at last for summary!!! you seems missing supertech in your list,

[@Oosik91]

Think about it kerosene or diesel is great at cleaning motorcycle chains with o-rings, safe to use and will get all the gunk off.

[@FJBsaidcornpop]

What about on a heated part/engine. Does heat activate the claning chemicals to clean better?

[@phildoleebowitz5335]

Thank you fuzzy head, great review

[@petertorregrossa4447]

It would have been more accurate if u followed the directions on the can. If it says 2 mins then do it for 2mins. The manufacturer put those instructions there after they did their own timed testing to find how the product works best.

[@jeffhetich5777]

great vidio, but i use diesal mixed with simple green

[@AM-tz6sy]

Extremely helpful

[@jamesdaple9951]

Thanks Dude for your test

[@duncnt121scotty]

Great video.. well done..

[@joecox9958]

Read Walmart review the #1 got 1 star because it doesn't resolve the oil. You might want to comment or add the resolve as one of compare factor.

[@digablesoul]

Well done! Thumbed you and subscribed!

[@truthfilterforyoutube8218]

No brush and actually bake it on....just like your engine does.....huge difference

[@ericweis9771]

Very helpful. Thank you.

[@Fletcher938]

you need to get a motor from a car that's been sitting for years so all the oil and grease have been dried in by heat and humidity, then we'll see how well they do, that gunk your cleaning is still wet you could wash that off with a strong hose.

[@dannymann8649]

Test it in a salvage yard. Your test surface hasn't been sitting for years and been subject to engine temperature going from winter conditions to summer and normal operating temperature of an engine. At least put your test panel with the grime you created in the oven for days at 180 degree's. Coat it again and bake it some more. Also an engine surface is porous.

[@RepairGeek]

So Gunk original didn't clean better than the foaming cleaners?

[@jonjondelacruz5463]

Thanks!

[@Rick356A]

It is the dried on grime that is the problem, less stuff & add some dirt leave it to dry, then you will have what you get in an engine bay!!!!!!

[@timothynewkirk2654]

Where do you buy the Motor Medic? Newk from Kentucky

[@onelliadurbin1654]

Will be nice if you line them up the cans to see them well

[@Calendyr]

Would parts cleaner be a good choice too?

[@RepairGeek]

That depends on how it would react with the plastics and the paints.

[@Calendyr]

@@RepairGeek That is why I am asking ;) I watch a lot of youtuber mechanics channels and they all use parts cleaners when they do oil changes to clean the oil pan and oil fiter after installation to remove the oil drips. I am wondering if that could be extented to the entire engine block. Gunk Original seems to do a good job but options are good.

[@brianstauffacher]

But you cannot give us a link to motor medic engine degreaser?

[@NalakaWijewardana]

Why don't use berner engin digreaser

[@davidnelson6893]

COOL TEST

[@georgetorres9282]

wish you would have added BLACK MAGIC engine cleaner

[@terrancegillen6468]

Great videos great job thanks repair geek

[@iiMOHAMMEDii]

Thanks, bro

[@iknowyourebrokeauto468]

Should have put some dirt in there most oils that build up have dirt that makes it cake like it does