Replacing a Hayward ColorLogic Pool Light for Less Than $100 - DIY

I just replaced my overpriced, broken down, Hayward ColorLogic pool light with this very nice LED Light for less than $100. Saved myself over $700! Here's how I did it.
Here's a link to the new fixture:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07T65711S?...

[@GlenYouGo]

UPDATE: It's now been two years since I made this video and the light is still going strong, except, I think it's time to change the battery in the remote. I appreciate all of the wonderful comments and the great suggested improvements on my original ideas. And I appreciate the warnings about the possibility of rust forming from the circuit board. I will remove it from the mount soon and check on that. At the time of install the possibility of rust did occur to me, but I figured that the inside of the light had already been filled with water for at least two years and there was no sign of rust, so I didn't worry about.

[@OvernightSuccess721]

Thank you for doing and recording this so that others like me can "stand on your shoulders." I did this thanks to what this video showed me what I would be up against. Pool company quoted $1200 for light plus labor. This would have been my 3rd one. 1st one last 16 months. 2nd one lasted 18 months. No way I was going to pay out another $1200+ to Hayward after such a poor product. This last one was 20% full of water when I gutted it and turned it into a $1200 niche adapter. Pro tips: I would HIGHLY recommend you cut out all the electronics out. The electronics will corrode and rust in the pool. They have all sorts of chemicals like lead and mercury that you do not want leaking into your pool. The added bonus is that will leave you with a sizeable hole in the center which allows you to pass the cable without having to cut that notch you did near the 8'o'clock location. Lastly, be sure to sand or shaving any rough or sharp edges left after the "surgery" because they will be dangerous to you as you handle the plastic, and they can also cut into the cables as the cables wiggle due to water movement while the pool is in use over time if you pass them through the center hole like I did. Bonus: I was able to do it all without draining my pool in just 1 weekend.

[@GlenYouGo]

Wow! Sounds like you got it dialed in right. If I had to do it again, I wouldn't drain the pool either knowing what I know now and how it is all set up. Being this was experimental at the time, I drained the pool for 3 reasons. 1. I was having the calcium line on the tile bead blasted off by a pro, so I wanted to make it real easy on them to do the work. 2. Because pool is 8 feet deep on that end and I didn't think I could tread water and experiment with the light and the mount to figure how to work it the best way. 3. Because I wear glasses, I wouldn't be able to see under water to do the mounting work. Probably a 4th reason, the water was the original water from when the pool was built about 5 years ago and chemically it was very difficult to keep it balance, so it needed a fresh water change anyway.

[@robertoc6374]

Thank you for making this DIY vid friend. I just replaced my Hayward garbage that lasted 3yrs. Replacement was $1200 at my local pool store. The Amazon replacement was $51 bucks and a weekend of following your steps. I bought 2 extra Amazon 45w replacement lamps in case they discontinue this model and harness setup. I have at least 5-10yrs of not having to worry about my pool light. Thanks again for taking the time.

[@GlenYouGo]

That is awesome! Glad I could help.

[@GlenYouGo]

UPDATE: It’s been over a year and the light is working just fine! Thanks for all the wonderful comments and suggestions. This is my first youtube video and I had a blast doing it. I appreciate y’all taking the time to watch. My wife keeps bugging me to make more as I’m always coming up with creative ways to accomplish home projects.

[@jamesfowler4th]

This is the best video on this subject. For those worried about the electronics, just keep digging once you cut the lens off. There are some grey round posts inside holding the circuit board down. Buzz those off and pull it out cutting the two brass conductors coming in from the backside (same area where you cut off the cord from the back). Buzz off the prism. Then pry the LED board off. I ended up cutting the whole back out around the LED panel and it still left me room to mount the bracket. Mainly because I'm using a small waterproof junction box* and was worried about it fitting through a cable notch like this videographer did. *Junction box (amazon description: 2Pcs IP68 Waterproof Electrical Junction Box Outdoor Underground Wire Connector Junction Boxes for 2 or 3 Pin Cables Ø 0.23-0.47 Inch). I wrapped the whole connection in silicone tape. As the videographer states, these are disposable. If the connection doesn't hold up, so what. I'll try something else. I can fail 10-15 times before I exceed the cost of one hayward. With all the videos on here, I'm shocked there isn't some sort of class action suit against hayward. Afterthoughts: Because I gutted the chassis more than this video suggests there was significant space between the ends of the hardware. I used the exact same nuts/bolts as in this video. If I ever have to replace, I think I would cut some standoffs from one of those rigid reusable nylon drinking straws. As I tightened the nuts the bracket would flex. It took some time to get it tight but not too tight. Also, if you do what I did, it's better to mark up the holes for the bracket from the back of the old light chassis. The holes like up with some slanted parts if you try to drill from the front.

[@crazydhawkins]

This video was a true life saver! We followed your wonderful step by step instructions and replaced our light with the Hayward which was only $66 and the light looks wonderful!!! Thanks for the video!

[@GlenYouGo]

Awesome! Thanks for letting me know!

[@brianmiller6587]

Awesome fix! Better than the original. Thanks for the post!

[@ericgirard846]

I have two Hayward lights that both died. Same story. No way I wanted to drop 2k+ on new ones. I watched this video several times and did some reading on the reviews of the light and decided to give it a go. I ended up buying two 12x12 acrylic sheets and using a router to cut perfect circles the same diameter as the old lights. There are screws on the top and bottom of my niche so it made it a little cleaner for me. This video saved me from making another large investment. Thank you!

[@GlenYouGo]

Wow! Great job! You are absolutely welcome!

[@pauljones348]

First off I have to say wow I am truly impressed with your detail in this video. I have the same issue as many others and am glad to see another possible solution to address this situation with. I have not tried this yet as I am still in the trouble shooting phase but thanks great video

[@GlenYouGo]

Thanks Paul! There are definitely other options out there and I hope you find one that works best for you.

[@larryaltman6411]

G K - Thanks for creating this KZbin! I replaced my 120VAC Hayward with the Eapmic 12V 45W Pool Light, and CNBRIGHTER Waterproof 12V AC Transformer. I control the light with a WiFi plug (mounted in a weather resistant GFCI outlet) activated by my Amazon Echo that feeds an outdoor boom box which stays outside. "Alexa, turn the pool light on". Quickly turning off and on the AC power will step the pool light through common colors (remote control is not needed). The color change feature works when using Alexa voice commands. 😊 The installation was easy!

[@lilchapo5154]

Love the light also the sound effect for party mode good job

[@GlenYouGo]

Haha, thanks!

[@chrisllang8055]

Outstanding Ingenuity !!!! I'm sure you could stabilize that mount wobble with some silicone backing or rubber gasket cut out from a 12 x 12 rubber sheet.

[@GlenYouGo]

Great idea!

[@toddrebhahn3293]

Thanks! Just this weekend I used this video as the basis for replacement of our Color logic light that hasn't worked for years. I had a few differences in my install, but this was a HUGE help. My Dremel tool was very useful!

[@GlenYouGo]

That is fantastic! Happy swim season to you!

[@fromabove9774]

Sweet video you saved me about $1000. I pulled out the circuit board, leaving only the old LEDs which are sealed. I drilled the new bracket using the 4 outmost posts through the outer ring of the old light, some mods with the oscillating tool to get it flush. This allowed me to use the included screws. I would have bought a new Hayward but for the price and awful reviews forget about it! Shame on Hayward. This was easy to do thanks!

[@GlenYouGo]

Great job! I'm glad I could help!

[@scottscott5301]

GREAT video thank you!

[@GlenYouGo]

You are welcome!

[@firebearva]

Hayward is such a ripoff when it comes to their ColorLogic light. My light lasted just past the warranty and I refuse to pay their inflated price for a replacement ($1,000. plus installation). I would attempt to do what you did, but I'm 71 and disabled, so I will live without a pool light which is a luxury not a necessity. Thank you for an excellent video.

[@derarmahmoud1677]

hello Mr. GK, how did you connect the power cord please? that's the only step I am missing LOL. can you please tell me how it was done? thanks

[@jamescrutchfield512]

Update: OK I also replaced my Hayward Color logic pool light with this same light in GK's video. I put the mounting bracket on the back of the light and it keeps the pool light from moving. It fits inside the niche. I removed the Hayward light completely and the screw for the new light fit right into the niche. I used splices for the wire that I had to heat shrink. Then I put more heat shrink of the entire cable about 6" past both ends of the previous heat shrink, and used a torch to seal the heat shrink. I had to buy the transformer at a cost of about $95.00 and the light cost me about $75.00. Light has been working fine for about 3 weeks now and I am very happy that I have fixed the problem, saved $800.00 and satisfied the new code that calls for all new pool lights to be low voltage.

[@GlenYouGo]

Sounds like you did a great job on it! I glad I could be a help to you.

[@miguelsanchez4052]

For the next cable splicing occasion try the 3M 23 Self Bonding Electrical Tape. It's safer and more tough for this type of jobs.

[@GlenYouGo]

Great tip! Thanks!

[@john-zf2zi]

I did check the wires coming from the pool light, there were two wires,not three as I thought. I have to leave Florida for a month and will do what you did when I get back in September.

[@ND2380-d3o]

What method did you use to remove the calcium build up on tile?

[@tomvarney3949]

GK- first thanks for the video. I've gone through two Haywards in 6 years. This is on my list and I've been looking at that light on Amazon. Can you tell me if I can use my existing transformer? Was your old Hayward wired into a transformer? My wiring comes from the light, to the transformer, to the breaker, to a 110 light switch in the house. That is my current set up. I'd have to turn the switch on and off to change the color of the Hayward. Just wondering if I could use this same switch to turn it of and on and use the remote to change the colors.

[@GlenYouGo]

As long as your transformer has the 12 volt output, it should work with no problem. I use my Hayward keypad to turn it on and then the remote it came with to change colors and modes. I don't see why you couldn't use the light switch to at least turn it on.

[@lgsinnovationsllc3117]

Also from Phoenix. My Hayward has a 120v light. Did you have to add/change a transformer at the controller to add this 12V light?

[@williadawilliams]

JUST a QUESTION. Will the circuit board from the old light that you screwed into get corroded? I didn't see any rubber seal between the new light and the old light housing. You showed that there was a little wobble space when you shook it which means that water was going to get inside. Can you clarify that a little more please. Thanks, and great DIY video.

[@miguelsanchez4052]

So, besides the price, on your opinion is this light more or less brighten than the old Hayward? The illumination is as "deep" as the H.? The angle of illumination is wider or narrow than H? About the refraction of the light on the surface compared with the H, which one is more noticeable or even annoying? Thanks for your time.

[@GlenYouGo]

Unfortunately, the Hayward wasn’t working when we moved so I can’t compare the two.

[@fullmotiondriver]

My concern with this method is the circuit board exposure to the pool water. How will pool chemicals interact chemically it? Can the old circuit board be remove from the back plate?

[@sahrens1]

No.. It cannot be removed.

[@jamescrutchfield512]

I live in Phoenix and my Hayward pool light also stopped working last week. I ordered the same light you did but it does not come with the transformer. Where did you get your transformer? Thanks

[@GlenYouGo]

Transformer was already installed and was powering the Hayward light.

[@robertlucas3728]

Hello G K ... Quick question just to be sure, the OG Hayward wires are black and white (and the ground which I am assuming you didn't connect), the new light you recommended has a red and a blue, how did you connect the two? what color to what color? Thanks BL

[@GlenYouGo]

Sorry for the late reply but I honestly can’t remember at this point. I hope you figured it out.

[@jamescrutchfield512]

On mine (transformer) it should say what voltage is what color. Make sure you use 12 volts. It says this on the light. I used red for the hot and blue for the common (neutral)

[@manofdogrucudavut]

Woudnt clipping against the code ?

[@brandonanderson4336]

Does it work with your Heyward keypad to change the colors, or do you have to use the remote it comes with.

[@GlenYouGo]

It turns on with the Hayward keypad, but I have to change colors or modes with the remote it came with.

[@john-zf2zi]

The wire coming from your transformer must have had 3 wires 1 being a ground wire. The wires coming from the light only have 2 wires What did you do with the ground wire coming from the transformer?

[@GlenYouGo]

That's a great question. I left the transformer connected exactly as it was so I only dealt with the two wires at the fixture.

[@brandonmike28]

You don’t need it in DC voltage. DC voltage is only 2 wires. AC voltage is 3 wires.

[@berminghamsimplice4424]

I have a salt water pool and worried about the exposed motherboard sitting in the water. Worried about it corroding and musing with the chemicals in the pool. Any advice?

[@GlenYouGo]

Thanks for the question. I think no matter if it's chlorine or salt water you would run a risk of that happening, but with 10,000 gallons of water I would imagine that the risk is minimal as far as being toxic to you or your guests.

[@jamescrutchfield512]

I was able to remove my old color logic completley.

[@bowesman1000]

I had my light replaced today by Blue Hippo in SW Fla with a Hayward colorlogic LPCUS11050 and it did cost 900 with installation and a two year guarantee. three other pool contractors wanted 1,250 to 1,500 for Pentair Intellibrite installed and it wasn't going to interface with Aqualogic without a diode board, 100 bucks. The Hayward that i replaced was installed in 2006 and it wasn't tripping GFI and wasn't leaking at all. It had just reached its life end and was still lighting but flickered in and out. I will be listing the old one on ebay for parts only and will get someone to buy it. Crossing my fingers on new design Hayward for getting a few years out of it. I would have tackled your avenue of repair if my neuropathy in hands and feet didn't have me all cramped up. Hope all is still going well with yours. T Y

[@michaelsullivan1561]

I am also in SW Florda, Cape Coral. I have the same exact problem, and the whole pool is only two years old. Very disappointing.

[@GlenYouGo]

Holy smokes! I hope it lasts for you. Next time, pay my airfare and I'll come to Florida and replace it for you with this one. :)

[@saschakunz3556]

I just bought that light and will try to replace my damaged Hayward one tomorrow. Did you leave your Hayward Transformer in place?

[@GlenYouGo]

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I used the Hayward Power Supply so I could still use the Hayward remote that controls everything.

[@mannynieto21]

Awesome video. I will be receiving the same light tomorrow.I also am replacing the same Hayward light as yours.my question is did you plug and play or did you have to install the conversion kit to 12V? Thanks in advance😊

[@GlenYouGo]

Hi Manule, I'm glad you found the video helpful. To your question, I used my existing power supply which is the Intermatic Model PX100 with 12/13VAC output. I measured the voltage at the point where I cut the wire to the old Hayward light and it was 12.8VAC. I hope that helps.

[@mannynieto21]

@@GlenYouGo I will measure voltage as well.Im assuming It will be the same voltage as its the same hayward light as what you replaced .thank you so much once again,have a great weekend.....will update when I install....

[@mjd6172]

@GK are you able to ground the new light? On Amazon it is only showing 2 wires.

[@GlenYouGo]

It is only 2 wires. It’s twelve volt so I believe the grounding for the circuit takes place in the transformer.

[@jamescrutchfield512]

There is no need to ground low voltage.

[@carlospasos5432]

There's so many issues and questions I see. But my biggest is draining the water. Would that nit offset the price of just getting a new Hayward bulb? I get them for 400$

[@GlenYouGo]

My water bill was $86 more than usual if I remember correctly, plus the light hasn't sprung a leak like the Haywards do. Even if it does, the fix is only $80 instead of another $400. Now that I have it set up and I know how to install it, I wouldn't drain the water again if I need to replace it.

[@john-zf2zi]

I have 14 volts going to the light, the futures say 12 volts will it be ok getting 14 ?

[@GlenYouGo]

I’m not and electrician but the two volt variation shouldn’t be a problem.

[@miguelsanchez4052]

Some AC transformes has the option to be set at 12v or 14v, normally 12v is selected if the lights are relative close to it (near 30 ft or less) and 14v if are at more distance. (50ft). The reason is the relation distance/drop of tension in low voltage. However 14v is ok for most of 12v lights.

[@AyoHype]

Why would you splice the wires and use liquid tape instead of just running the new light cable to the junction box or transformer that the original lights were ran to?

[@GlenYouGo]

I appreciate the question. If I recall, the chord that comes attached to the light is only 1.5 meters long and I have about a 60ft run, so it made sense to me to use the existing cable.

[@AyoHype]

@@GlenYouGo ahhh I see

[@AeroSonicBlue5959]

Will this work with multiple lights? Will they color sync?

[@GlenYouGo]

I don't think so.

[@john-zf2zi]

I did this just as he said, works great. Then I helped my neighbor and we did his pool light. Not hard

[@GlenYouGo]

Awesome! I'm glad it helped!

[@dadthefixerflorida]

Do you have to drain the pool for this? I thought that you could normally remove the light with the power off. You could do all of this with the light on the edge of the pool. Someone correct me please?

[@GlenYouGo]

No, you do not have to drain the pool for this. I drained it for 3 reasons. 1. I was having the calcium line on the tile blown off by a pro, so I wanted to make it real easy on them. 2. Because pool is 8 feet deep on that end and I didn't think I could tread water and experiment with the light and the mount to figure how to work it the best way. 3. Because I wear glasses, I wouldn't be able to see under water to do the mounting work. I hope that helps.

[@dadthefixerflorida]

@@GlenYouGo one more question… Do I need to buy a transformer to chance the power signal? Some people commented on that. I was planning to do it exactly like yours and I have the exact same fixture, in Florida, installed in 2019.

[@GlenYouGo]

@@dadthefixerflorida , thanks for the question. If your Color Logic fixture is 12 volts, you should not have to buy a different transformer. If it's 120 volts you will have to by one. The 12 volt transformers have power output that can be set to 12v or 14v, depending on how long the run of wire is from the transformer to the light. Longer the run, you suffer some voltage drop. It's best to measure voltage at the end of the run and see where it's at. I hope that helps.

[@mykeyprophet9614]

How much water bill was to refill the pool after empty ?

[@GlenYouGo]

My regular water/sewer bill is around $73.00 a month. The bill during the pool filling month $118.30. I was expecting it to be much worse so I'm pretty happy.

[@lilchapo5154]

I know were I live(n.cali) they have off peak months were water not that much to fill a pool I have a 25,000 gallon pool believe it or not it cost me 80 bucks to fill during the winter time not bad I was expecting alot more

[@thorax4u]

I don't thinkbi ever got the led changer...

[@barryhadar4486]

How’s the light working for you it’s good?

[@GlenYouGo]

It's doing great! It was 90 degrees yesterday in Phoenix and we were swimming with the dogs last night. The light was awesome to have!

[@GlenYouGo]

Another year has passed and it's still working great!

[@EricSmith-gn7nd]

Warning Any time u don’t something like this your liable

[@oj4253]

Is still working?

[@GlenYouGo]

Yes! Still going strong!

[@oj4253]

@@GlenYouGo good to hear. I got mine today but the grommet on the light was halfway in and halfway out. I am going to return it and see if it was a one off. I'm just so scared shock someone in the water just save a few bucks.

[@GlenYouGo]

@@oj4253 Mine is low voltage so there really isn't a risk of shocking anyone. Make sure you are routing any wiring through a GFCI circuit. As I said in the video, I'm not an electrician. Consult your local codes and hire someone if you're really unsure.

[@oj4253]

@@GlenYouGo no dought I have the same haward light. I do have it with GFI as well. I completed my install and actually removed the mother board so I wouldn't have any metals slowly getting in the salt pool. Great video lots of help.

[@scottp6825]

My Hayward dies after the first season and after the warranty expired.

[@GlenYouGo]

Of course. I am very sorry.

[@philipjohnson882]

Doing the cord like that is dangerous, illegal everywhere in the US and just lazy. Oh and that was alot of extra work you did to convert the nich when blue square mnfg makes an adapter

[@jamescrutchfield512]

Phillip: I wouldn't say lazy, but yes there are better methods like the one I used with heat shrink. As long as it is 12 volts, the danger is minimal, which by the way is the new code for swimming pool lights. The swimming pool companies were the one's who made this change. It wasn't the electrical inspectors.

[@OvernightSuccess721]

Can you post link or model number to that adapter from blue square mnfg?

[@drewlu1342]

I actually hate Hayward products now specifically because of this niche they designed so that people are forced to buy their lights only which are completely overpriced pieces of junk. My pool was built in 2019 and im sure my builder which is a hayward supplier was told by hayward to start building their pools with these niches so people will be forced to re purchase their shitty lights. Now im stuck with this crappy niche for the pool and i have colorlogic a spa light that needs to be replaced also. Havent even looked into that one but im sure its the same bs.

[@GlenYouGo]

I completely agree. That is exactly why I went this route and made the video to hopefully help other frustrated color logic owner's out with an alternative to the Hayward niche.

[@jimcarter2324]

Splicing the wires in that method is not only a violation of NEC code, but also completely unsafe. Sure you saved $100 dollars, but it's going to cost you thousands in a lawsuit when that liquid tape fails.

[@aarondavid9763]

It's only 12-14 volts. Would that really cause harm?

[@jamescrutchfield512]

Jim if was still 120 volts you would be correct as far as safety goes. I used Heat shrink on my splice, and then I covered up the splice with even more heat shrink. The light uses 12 volts so it is now much safer.

[@JT-jg8le]

It's only 12v

[@Andrewfixit859]

You are not an electrician and you should not give this advice. If you were you would not. For example, if someone just did it like that and had 120 volts, it would not work well. There is a code for a reason. Plus the brand. Exactly what brand are you trusting your life to ?

[@TheFrayman]

100%

[@brandencheney4624]

Not legal