Replacing Trailblazer Power Steering Lines - Bad Leak FIXED

[@TheDaninator]

The Failblazer is living up to its name. It’s on a pretty impressive streak of failures. What have you replaced on your Trailblazers?

[@scotta8494]

Not a whole bunch of stuff...yet. mine has 198K and running strong. I am looking for leather/heated power seats for it...

[@mecalpsha4473]

@@scotta8494 They are BUILT WAY better than the front drive 4 banger vehicles...

[@reallyretro]

Where do i even begin? I purchased my 2005 Trailblazer in 2014 and ever since that time, I have had issue after issue with this thing. I will just sum it up like this, it was the worst purchase I ever made. The list of problems goes like this, new battery, new alternator,new shocks and struts, new starter, new water pump, new power steering cooler along with new lines, new clutch fan, along with every other regular maintenance this truck required. So yeah, it has been no cake walk.

[@mecalpsha4473]

@@reallyretro The biggest problem I have seen with them is people drive them and do no maintenance (and they seem to have a rough/hard life). More so than other vehicles (always really beat up looking).

[@googleman5945]

I purchased my 04 in 2015. Rear diff fluid @ 130. Water pump @ 140. Valve cover gasket & 1 injector 160. Shocks, struts, both sway bar links set, 1 wheel bearing @ 180. Now a power steering leak @ 195. I'm not mad at all. This is what's expected from older trucks. My lady said; get a new truck, I said; so my tools can collect dust...hell no. Lol

[@Echo024]

You know it’s a b***h of a job when all the videos start in daytime and end with darkness and crickets.

[@jacksonlindland4916]

I just did this job, I started roughly a week ago and devoted at least a few hours every day. The 8mm bolt in the steering rack that holds the high and low pressure lines was rounded, rusted and threaded into the rack so bad I had to replace the rack. Thankfully Dan took care of us on that one, too. So I ended up replacing the rack too. Big tip for getting the lines into the rack, run a single strip of electrical tape on the back side of the two lines when you are trying to fasten them down with the 8mm bolt into the rack, it worked like a charm in keeping the low pressure line from popping out of the brace groove. Thank you for the videos!

[@TheDaninator]

Good tip!

[@cburner_]

That sucks you had to replace the whole rack

[@markking4535]

Dropping the control arm is the key, worked great. I moved the new line away from the frame using zip ties to keep them in place. I used a threaded bolt to screw in to grab the old seals and pulled them out. Both seals need to be replaced even if you are only replacing one line. Place the new seals in the rack with the largest OD outward and lube with clean power steering fluid. Thank you for this video, it make for an easy job, a bit time consuming but satisfying.

[@97cammedgtp]

I’m tackling this job tomorrow for a guy I did the compression fitting fix on a year ago. The fittings hold up great but no there is more rusted spots. So now we’re just relaxing whole lines. Great video!!!

[@SpecialFXKing]

Awesome tutorial, ballsy to put a used set in but I respect that hustle!

[@dyardsale5475]

A neighbor asked me to do this for her. After seeing this no way am I going to do it. Thanks for the heads up.

[@Zer0_Cool69]

Well how hot is she

[@neverforget6657]

My neighbor got me😂

[@dyardsale5475]

I moved out 1 year ago.@@neverforget6657

[@rrrusted2883]

This video helped a lot! Awesome and thanks! Here are some tips that I found helpful as well. Use a lag bolt (about 1/2 and grind the point off) or coarse threaded bolt to screw into the cap seals to help pull them from the rack. Takes seconds. Trim the corner off the inner wheel well forward of the swing arm bolt for room to remove lines. I found that the new cap seals leaked like a sieve so I chucked those and opted for o-rings. So far, so good.

[@aaronrossi2286]

I just double flared and had a union spiced where line rusted thru 4 years later still working great

[@TheDaninator]

That works!

[@RageTurtle_Rage]

Kinda funny how every issue I've had with my TrailBlazer you just happen to have the exact video I'm looking for, from transmission swapping to replacing gaskets, I think you even had one where you replaced the fan clutch? My forward sprag in my 4L60E blew so been without reverse since December and have so may other issues that I haven't even gotten to fixing it yet. Picked up a cheap 4L60E transmission, exact one I got for like $180 on marketplace, poor dude left it outside so rebuild is very much needed, as much as I hate to say, I guess your FailBlazer has a lot in common with mine 😅

[@jeremykleven5010]

Awesome video. This guy is hilarious. Respect his patience. Very informative and straight to the point. Very nicely done.

[@SuperYungap]

I love the “what now” within the first 5 secs 🏅that’s gold

[@AaronJohnson1979]

These 4.2 straight six trailblazers are spectacular engines man I've seen many of them just run and run

[@markofexcellence5209]

Mine is over 200,000 and the motor shows no signs of slowing down. In general the Envoy has been good to me

[@deanpountain5094]

260000 miles on mine still running 💪

[@andeligkriger]

My 2003 has just about hit 400,000km

[@jasonscardshop937]

Thank you so much for making this video I did this myself to my 07 it saved me about $600 keep making the great content

[@barryroman2542]

After watching this I decided to do the job. Success, took me about 5hrs. I replaced all three lines. I stuck with the oe version lines with button seals. Search out the video about removing the button seals with lag bolt. I spent an hour with a pick and got no where. That video was key. 2008 trailblazer 6cyl.

[@Mega_Mikey]

Thanks for this video man! I just picked up an '03 trailblazer after a suicidal deer took out my pontiac vibe. I was actually excited, like man my first SUV and despite being 17 years old with 232k miles, this thing is clean and in fantastic mechanical shape...well today I saw the dreaded brown power steering lines. I'm glad I saw your video, I think I'm gonna go ahead and try to splice in a piece of line with compression fittings, I don't feel like fiddling with all the extra stuff. (its cold out!)

[@davidlee9299]

Just a bit of advice... When all done replacing the line... And before starting the vehicle... Jack up fron ot truck to get wheels off the ground... Turn the wheels all the way to left and right.. do rhis 25 cycles... This will get the air out of the line.. and prevent the foaming and save the the pump... Now you can lower the truck and start engine... Oh. Check fluid levels as you turn the wheels... Do not let it get low.. that will let air back into the line.. this will save you from replacing the pump

[@KIDDYCATTG03]

Thank you so much Dan! I have been not at all looking forward to doing this but your tutorial has helped so so much!!! Very thorough and awesome. I think I can fix my Failblazer with ease....I hope!.... To Be Continued!!!

[@KIDDYCATTG03]

Guess What. He runs amazing. I am so happy. Thank you for the videos you share and all your hard work!!!!

[@pfjsuyehf]

Thanks for the great video! If you have trouble fishing a tube or pie through a hole, you can try to fish a clothes hanger through the destination hole (the hole you're trying to get the pipe into) at the other end, then connect your pipe to it with electrical tape, then pull the coat hanger and pipe or hose through. Also, putting electrical tape on the areas where you had already put Rustoleum is risky. The reason why is that with electrical tape, no matter how tight you wind it, water still will find a way in there! And when it does, it's living in there! So you can imagine the problems that can happen with that. You might be OK with your vehicle, but the Rustoleum should suffice on it's own, IMO. And it's usually when water "puddles" in areas that you have this rust phenomonom, and elec tape will only allow water to embed there and stay there longer rather than air dry off.

[@jyoung5502]

I'm battling lines spliced together with compression fittings. This is helpful as I'll be just replacing both the lines

[@karguy1720]

Helpful video. I tried this two years ago and gave up. I ended up paying shop $1000 to get it done. Dan should have used new hoses/pipes instead of installing old rusted hardware.

[@TheDaninator]

True, but when the parts are just sitting there for the picking off of my parts Trailblazer...

[@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885]

Did you pay $1K just for the pipes or also for the power steering pump? We had the 04 TB hoses and pump replaced at 45K miles ago - for $1135.00 and now the lines are rusted out again. Minnesota....

[@chrischoin7402]

After installing new power steering lines you have to leave the pump reservoir cap off or loose in order for the system to properly bleed the excess air. Leaving the cap on the pump reservoir will build pressure like a balloon with nowhere for the air bubbles to go. With the cap off you will see air bubbles rise and pop. Anyone doing this should expect to do that and even use a brake bleeder on the pump to eliminate air from the system.

[@litiviousspartus4611]

Yep

[@stevendurbin7562]

Nice video I don't watch it all the way through I got up to the point where you had the upper control arm removed. You're going to have to have that realign now you know. All in all good video dude.

[@jasonscardshop937]

This video really helped me out a lot with my 2007 also had to do transmission lines. Ohio winters can be brutal on cars love the content keep up the great work. Love the harbor freight reviews too

[@alexromero6911]

hi, i love your video on the power steering line. I found a better way to pull those lines out and install them. Pull out battery tray and loosen the fuse box and the wires can be moved towards the engine, it will give you a clear way.

[@mecalpsha4473]

Things I did on one I picked up at a good price (was Fan Clutch/Waterpump/Radiator/plugs/struts/tires/brakes/hoses/shocks/battery) - as live in South and Drive over 100+ Miles round trip into work, also the Serp belt/pulley/tensioner - NO Engine lights and *PAID FOR*

[@thomaswhite5871]

Wonder if spraying clearcoat paint on exposed metal lines before installing new ones would stop future corrosion? Instead of coating with grease

[@Your32Maker]

Thank you for your video... One of my hoses is soaked through, not leaking on ground yet.. you saved me hours of work...I've decided to put it on hold for now... :D :D :D ...

[@mecalpsha4473]

*TITLE is owned and a LINE or lines to FIX beats someone making $$$$$ of payments every month owing TENS of thousands*

[@jasongray949]

Amen

[@jasongray949]

Amen

[@adamlowe5305]

If you remove the battery and battery tray horn and the four 13 mm head bolts that hold the fuse box in place. Hold the fuse box up so you can finagle the line underneath all the wires and save yourself a ton of time and have them located properly.

[@eddievonpapen6306]

Just finished mine. 04 Envoy here in Vermont. At first it was going to be a repair at the main failure point; under the large rubber grommet held to the frame by two prong half round shaped clamp. Because of other affected/rusted areas I went with full replacement. It was brutal. I’m very new at this. If you live in the rust belt it will be hell. My upper control arms where out. I cut out the old lines from the wheel well and started installing them from the top to the right above the strut tower. Even after days of PB Blaster all of the 8 and 10 mm bolts that hold the lines will very difficult not to snap off or round off. The 10 mm under the fan shroud can be gotten with a 3/8 wobble attached to about 24/30 inches of extension. The two 8/10 that hold clamp down on top of the rail will likely round off unless you soak and wire brush repeatedly for days. The next is the large two pronged clamp and grommet which is attached to the side of the frame rail. It too will have issues, just lees then the other bolts. Last the 8 mm bolt holding the two lines into the rack. I removed the axel beforehand to do the seals. It’s possible to reach the rack bolt without doing that but I would imagine it would be much mir difficult. Hopefully you have small hands and can line up the socket with about a 6 inched extension to get to this horizontally/ dead on from the other side of the frame work while keeping the lines in places with the other hand. After market seals will likely leak. I used lines from Rock Auto that came with all the clamps, grommets and the two duck bill/ button rack seals. I purchased an extra two button seals for $6. But those seals leaked immediately after removing the old one with a threaded bolt.The lines were good the clamps nothing like the original ones so try to save any many of those as possible. For the duck bill seals, I would suggest that AC Delco part number 26080380 would preform better. Pre soak them in p.s fluid, flaps up. You do not need to remove the battery and the tray mount like some suggest. A long extension a d a 14 mm crows foot might work on the bottom of the pump for that line, the other is a tension clamp. Do not forget to replace the tiny o ring on top of the new line going back into the pump. Sorry if I’ve been scattered, just came down with Lyme. I used 1/4 drive magnet sockets and cheap nutters setters on the two hardest to access bolts. 3/8 to loosen everything. Be sure to seat all you sockets and wrenches as to avoid round. Do not over torque when tightening.

[@joshuasamson2900]

some helpful tips. jack the front end up so both tires are off the ground, easier to turn and less chance of flat spotting your tires from bleeding. When bleeding leave the cap off the power steering pump, but while bleeding make sure the reservoir doesn't go empty. But if you like taking showers in power steering fluid leave the cap on, or slowly very slowly take the cap off so air will come out and not a shower of power steering fluid. Great video tho, thanks

[@TheDaninator]

Great tips! Thanks

[@raysquires17]

After much searching and finally putting dye in the system, it looks like the leak is in that rubber grommet up by the strut tower... not sure if I really want to tackle this, ugh !

[@ladraper7134]

That's probably where the leak is. Mine leaked there. I tried to replace the lines but twisted off bolt that hold lines into steering column.

[@MechTech5000]

The seals in the steering rack do you have to take the old ones out? I'm having a hell of a time taking them out.

[@joegingerich159]

Would it be easier just to run some line with flared ends from point A to point B instead of trying to make the factory pre bent piece fit?

[@paulg444]

Was that a 5/8 in wrench at the pump high pressure side ?

[@patricmalone1645]

Awesome detail and explanation. Thank you

[@springwellssw]

Terrible engineering on those trailblazers. Just terrible!! I'm going through the same issue.... After watching this video , that's a tough job I don't think I want to put myself through.... Thanks for the video

[@samking5615]

I have 3 trail blazers of that era. All 3 rusted same place . since the rusted are was localized to just the tower I just spiced in New sections with compression fittings . much easier than replacing that whole line and equally as good. The cooler will go next and aftermaket cooler again easier and cheaper than a New gm cooler.

[@AHLive215]

great video. I have a question. when you say cooler line, It doesn't actually go to the cooler correct. that line goes back to the pump correct.

[@BROWN_XPOSURE_esheee_shombra_]

So the hose for the cooling system is what is messed up on mine the godamned thing foams bubbles like crazy I have to replace fluid every 1000 miles just today it was almost dry

[@lmtsmt847]

Wish you would have showed how to get over shock tower

[@MartinRosendahl]

How did you get the high pressure line to go in (to the rack)? I got all my lines out and got the new ones run, just can't get the high pressure one to plug into the rack. The low pressure one is no problem. Whats the trick?

[@TheDaninator]

I'm not sure of a trick to get it in. I had the same trouble, but was eventually able to get it to back in. It was a bear for sure.

[@DAUltimateSACRIFICE]

Im having trouble out of my high pressure line as well... i found out that my 1st thread may be a tad stripped, thread would start then once it was going ok it would jump back out and I'd keep starting over... i found out after trying to bend it a lil to get it in straight, i saw i made a crease in the line.. and trying to undo my problem it snapped in two.. smh!!! High pressure line is killing me.. i wish i could make a rubber hose connector near the fitting so it would be essier to manipulate

[@MartinRosendahl]

I figured out the trick. Easiest way is to remove the oil seals where the lines plug into the rack and replace them with 2 new seals. Put the new seals onto the lines first and then press the lines in. To remove the old seals, use a ⅜ x ¾ coarse thread bolt and spin it into the seals. Use a long extension over the half shaft boot to thread them in, and then a flat bar from the side to pry them out. They'll come right out without damaging the rack ports at all. I had bought new aftermarket lines on Amazon and the high pressure side didn't need a new seal, it is designed with a flange on the end of the line and you put an o ring over it, but you have to remove the oil seal and leave it out in order to be able to push the new line in with the flange on the end

[@jamesbarlowjr.3762]

@@MartinRosendahl so do you have to replace the seals or no in the rack? Thanks

[@MartinRosendahl]

@@jamesbarlowjr.3762 I did.

[@brettsuydam7457]

What now is a pretty common phrase I say to my Trailblazer

[@Koldatt]

Its funny because BOOYAH Is a pretty common one round here

[@bryanbrunet9703]

Need to do this and an AC compressor. Maybe I'll just get rid of it, this looks like a huge job.

[@dustinaubry6442]

Thank you soo much for this video I have a 2008 i6 with currently 246k on it and my just started leaking cus of a rust hole

[@Snowdog216]

Great video, thanks! At 4:50 - I had the leak of the pipe under the rubber retaining block. I cut the bad part out and put in a piece of brake line with two compression fittings. Its been working fine for 2 years. I had to cut like a 1/2 inch of the block off as the compression fittings take up some of that space. There is another video on that procedure. Not trolling or being critical just my two cents. At 4:50 I would not bend the bracket out as the screwdriver slips it hits the wire harnesses. The plastic covers might crack more than they already are and maybe a wire breaks. No idea if that is common, just a risk I prefer to avoid. When I did the line patch, I took off the bracket. There is a bolt that holds the bracket on. Will be rusty, use PB Blaster the day before. Use a box wrench and work it back and forth. Using a breaker bar will most likely break the bolt head off. This way you can clean out the rubber block, the lines and the area under the block. Let it dry out. I drilled holes in the rubber block to let more air circulate. Also not sure how you did it, but leave the block off the lines until you get the lines attached, this allows more play. After the lines are attached to the rack, put the rubber block back on and reattach the bracket.

[@waynethomas1726]

I bought a new pressure line which comes with 2 new seals that go in the rack. Is says to remove them with a pick tool. What would you do, keeping in mind how far down the rack is from the top, the only way to access the seals, would you, if the seals didn't leak before, reuse them or take the extra time and remove and replace the seals? Thanks.

[@briansautoshinellc]

Where does the green O ring go? I gotta do this soon

[@lukekenzakoski8313]

How did you get those o rings out is our problem

[@justingodfrey7443]

FYI I have to change those lines in my Ole ladies trailblazer. Some owner before used compression fitting and it was leaking like crazy. I was able to tighten the compression fittings quite a bit and stopped the leaking, but I feel compression fitting work loose due to engine vibration and isn't a good fix.

[@HeriB1994]

How long did it take for both lines? I'll only have to replace one.. the one in the front near the pulley

[@optimusdawgs1]

Hey what would you charge for this job and where are you located?😊

[@BaronLewdWickVonJunz]

10:11 I am having the same trouble with my friends Trail Blazer getting those lines and holes and nut lined up. Question do the lines slide in on their own? Or does the bolt push the lines in as I wrench it back in?

[@dontblinkgaming8942]

Since it’s under pressure would there be a torque spec for each of the bolts or would it not matter

[@waltersantamaria4622]

Do you know the steering houses kit part number?

[@drewzak01]

This vid saved me lol, I've been working on both of my Trailblazers and o was dreading this repair

[@432b86ed]

I bought an '03 Envoy SLT(same as Trailblazer) that spent much of its life in Michigan. It had migrated here to California when I bought it 3 years ago. Rust had taken out the return ( _LOW_ pressure) PS line where it lays along the top of the frame. Accessing the rotted section was easy through the rubber inner fender flap in the LF wheel-well. I unbolted its clamp, lifted the line and cut out the bad section (3-4 inches). For a patch-in piece I cut a 6" section out of a steel braided faucet connector hose, slid it into place and fastened the ends using 4 small hose clamps - 2 on each end. This "repair" is something I'm not particularly proud of but it has held tight and been leak free for the last 3 years. Just my 2 cents here -- or rather 5 bucks at Home depot. Btw, aside from a coilpack this work vehicle has been trouble free. I can live with the noisy sway bar links and the sometimes inaccurate fuel gauge. It still looks and drives great for the $1200 I paid for it. Ymmv.

[@ufoabove]

I wish I had seen your repair a week ago. I drove over to my Daughter's place and didn't have any power steering when I got there. Line rusted out where you said. I put a piece of brake line in with compression fittings. I thought there should be a way to use rubber hose to do the repair and put hose clamps on, two on each end, opposite direction of each other

[@432b86ed]

Before the braided rubber hose method I tried and failed with hard compression fittings and soft copper tubing. I couldn't get one of the joints to seal properly. This was probably just due to the imperfect condition of the existing line, but after the second furrel I simply got tired of screwing with it. What amazed me was that the pump survived being run sans fluid for so long. Glad you're back on the road.

[@samking5615]

Exactly what I did . 30 mins done.

[@samking5615]

Did three hard splice repairs. No leaks yet.

[@JohnB-kv4gf]

#432b86ed Great idea, I may try exactly that on my 2003 once I find out if it is the low pressure vs the high pressure side.

[@timothyfelix8879]

BRILLIANT IDEA! When Purchasing a New Vehicle, can I have The ENTIRE FRAME AND ALL METAL PARTS Sprayed with Rustolium Paint!🤔🤔👍👌🥰🤪🤪🤪😶🧐😎👩‍⚖️👨‍⚖️😎🇺🇸.

[@dragonext2001]

Unfortunately this doesn't help solve my current problem. Due to lack of money and a power steering leak I have to replace my line with ones from the junkyard. I'm there now trying to understand how to get the middle metal bracket off the middle of the frame under the pulleys. The bolt holding the bracket is in top not the side making it impossible to get a tool onto it.

[@TheDaninator]

That is a tricky spot for sure. Hope you’re able to get it

[@dragonext2001]

@TheDaninator unfortunately I had to give up. Now I'm just trying to figure out if there's a way yo repair or replace the rubber section of the line without removing the entire line. I've seen videos of someone using compression fittings and what I assume was a hydraulic line to replace the rubber section. I tried everything else I seen like wrapping it several times with F4 tape( popped like a 🎈), hose clamping a larger hose ontop of the line(still leaked). I even tried wrapping it with F4 tape and hose clamping another hose ontop and still the tape popped and leaked out just took a few more minutes. I'm hesitant to try using compression fittings with a hydraulic line coz it'll require cutting the meta line removing the original rubber hose. If it don't work I would have made a even bigger problem.

[@ellingtonsk]

Praise the Lord you did it!

[@dannyboettger8482]

How did u get those seals in at the rack? I have been fighting it for days and I replaced rack and pinion those little things fall out when you put those hoses in u lost one , now i am waiting for new ones

[@TheDaninator]

Danny Boettger I don’t recall having trouble getting the seals in. It was the line fitting I had most trouble with.

[@dannyboettger8482]

I used the seals that was in there and whrn i put the lines in one fell out. So i am at a loss. So i purchased new hoses for the customer and wortied that the new lines with the new seals will do the same thing.

[@ladraper7134]

@@TheDaninator Can I bypass that fn steering column. I want to burn this thing with a bic lighter, slowly so I can enjoy watching parts melt.

[@JohnB-kv4gf]

​@@ladraper7134😂

[@ChristyMK]

How long did this repair take to do in real time?

[@TheDaninator]

I would plan on an afternoon to do this repair.

[@timothypaulo7060]

How bad is a rack replacement on this beast? Is it doable with jack stands , good hand tools.. or is it better with jack stands , good tools , a bottle of bourbon , and a one way ticket to the boneyard?

[@TheDaninator]

Timothy Paulo a rack replacement is pretty straight forward. Pert-near simple if you’re good with a wrench. A lot of steps but not hard in my opinion. I have a video of it on my channel.

[@dannyibarra4477]

Outstanding bruh! I have a 2003 Tb leaking from underneath some where in the middle of the frame . Looks like its leaking some where in the soft line . But anyways thanks for doing the video . I know it will help me . Will let you know out come.

[@fourthlaxer4557]

This probably saved me from killing someone! Hello shop with lift! Here I come! Yes i'm bent over

[@icet6668]

Lube ??

[@jimcricket71]

Yep $675

[@danielw.4588]

amen to that brother it's a pass from me. I am not trying it.

[@victormontalvo4239]

Tengo fuga en conectores que van en cremallera ¿Que lleva un oring o que empaque lleva tendrán una foto o algo

[@dustin0133]

What wrench is at 3:15?

[@robertbogie3300]

I got something going on with the wife's 2005 Trail Blazer...massive leak from the power steering line or pump, don't know which one so far. Guess I'm crawling under the car after filling up the PS reservoir to see what's leaking. If it's the PS line leaking like in the video, I'm inclined to splice a high pressure hose to bridge the rusted part of the line if that is where the leak is. See if that fixes the problem. If its the PS pump then I guess I'm in for the long haul to replace it!

[@dn41287]

I watched another video guy cut the lines where they were rusted near the clamp holding them to the wheel well and repaired the lines using section of new line and brass compression fittings. wont work for me as the lines are to badly rusted. I'm wondering if it would be easier to cut the new lines and install them then use the compression fittings to rejoin them at the wheel well. would that make it easier to get the new lines in wouldn't have to deal with getting them over the strut?

[@TheDaninator]

That would be easier for sure. Compression fittings work well, but in the end it's a splice. You have to go with what peace of mind you can work with.

[@straightdooshbags1786]

I'm about to do a set of these lines at work. Shop Key calls it a 2.6 hour job, this should be interesting.

[@t00ls742]

4:29 ...dont pry that bracket back, just unbolt it...10mm socket on a ratchet...first unbolt the ground wire that is beside it , the the bracket will unbolt and come right off

[@thehigsy]

Hi.. how long did take approx to replace the lines ?

[@TheDaninator]

Took me a few hours by myself

[@thehigsy]

@@TheDaninator if you don't mind me asking , how much did the hoses cost ? I just called the dealership and the price is unbelievable

[@TheDaninator]

I pulled them off of my parts trailblazer, so I don't know how much they'd cost.

[@factsdontcareaboutfeelings9384]

@@thehigsy I just ordered all 3 lines from amazon for 120 when the places like autozone wanted about 100 for just one line.

[@jimbill6205]

O ring on power steering line connection to rack. Lost all fluid in short order. Drip drip..... anyone know a part number? Old o ring deformed on one side, evidently from the factory the joint is severely side loaded.

[@stevestarr6395]

Hey Daninator. What size is the O ring on the end going into the pump? TIA!

[@TheDaninator]

I'm sorry, I have no idea, lol.

[@stevestarr6395]

@@TheDaninator Thanks anyway!

[@tom.p1986]

I had a f150 that would leak power steering fluid only when the wheels weren't straight. I had to remember to park with the wheels straight or Id end up with a huge puddle on my driveway

[@timothypaulo7060]

Just finished putting my hoses in. This video was a big help. It was still a pain, but the trick with dropping the upper control arm and bending the inner fender did make it easier. I still have to hook up the lines on the rack. . I'm tempted to go the extra step and take out the axle shaft to get clearance to get my hands in there . I'm on the fence with that though. I'll see how much of a pain it is to hook up the lines first! Great video.. Thanks for sharing!

[@TheDaninator]

Awesome! Glad the video helped you out.

[@paulg444]

Great work, not sure what the advantage is of having those hard aluminum lines. That fluid is basically a hydraulic oil. I properly psi rated oil resistant hose is a better solution.

[@machineing80]

If anyone watches this,when youre turning the wheel to get air out of the system, leave the cap off and you wont blow the return line off the pump..

[@chrismoore5307]

Thank you for a great informational video, well done!

[@jasonlinder9923]

Good vid thanku

[@pearlwavey9051]

Man that's good work👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏾.. How long was that job🤔???

[@TheDaninator]

It took a few of hours of actual wrenching/letting paint dry.

[@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885]

@@TheDaninator yeah the local mechanic recorded 3 hours to replace the power steering TB lines -

[@jameshall4385]

your parts truck keeps giving. how much money do you think it has saved you so far?

[@TheDaninator]

James Hall I’d say easily $1,500, and I’m taking more parts in future videos.

[@jameshall4385]

pick that carcass clean, like a thanksgiving turkey. then boil the bones for soup

[@mecalpsha4473]

@@TheDaninator *owning it OUTRIGHT = PRICELESS*

[@cace1968]

Thank you very much. Great vídeo, very helpfull.

[@jasongray949]

Thanks for the video doing it in a couple of days not looking forward to it

[@Koldatt]

Very many thanks man. You do good

[@mecalpsha4473]

Forgot got to mention, Changed Transmission Fluid/Filter and replaced the grommet in the Trans (something YOU need to do). Along with DIFF Fluids and Trans Case....

[@eddiereichel9354]

100% anyone doing this job just cut the line. It goes in and out through the wheel well. I have done 4 of these the exact same way and how it holds up is great. I know others that have done it and has lasted for years. I mean if you have the flare tool just use a flare union instead but compression fittings will hold up as good as any flare. It is so much easier to do in 2 pieces. If you cut it it can be done in about an hour.

[@dn41287]

Thanks I was considering this approach .I plan to cut the new lines where they would attach to the wheel well then install each piece separately and use compression fittings to rejoin the lines is this how you did it?

[@eddiereichel9354]

@@dn41287 Yep you cut the line in front of the strut tower. Standing looking ad driver side it will be on left side.

[@jamesbarlowjr.3762]

@@eddiereichel9354 Sounds much easier. What size compression fittings? 3/8? Thanks

[@timothyfelix8879]

🤔💥👨‍🎓! Can we invent a watersnake type aperatus with torque connections because ASE CERTIFICATION IS NEEDED FOR SUCH A LONG HARD JOB! OR IS IT! Yes, yes it is! Also, can we use Rustolium Spray Paint to prevent iron oxide buildup?

[@Wildbear28]

Same exact leak on mine (2004) however..I think I'm just gonna cut it..put a rubber hose over, clamp down..hopefully save me time ,money, and the headache...

[@ladraper7134]

I tried to bypass with rubber hose and it blew quickly bc it was the high pressure side. I tried to replace the line but I saw it going into the steer tower. I want to cut and bypass it. Did you have to mess with that fn tower?

[@sweetcup6694]

Keep the cap on the reservoir loose when bleeding.

[@stevegrand4665]

Ty great video

[@aidantheapexgamer7134]

I was gonna watch your video but then saw I would have to watch 97 ads.

[@t00ls742]

he missed showing the most important part....the seals that go in the rack....make sure you dont damage them putting them in....or , you will be taking those lines back off the rack and replacing them

[@timothypaulo7060]

Hey daninator , fixed the hose leak, but there is still a leak , a major leak. In the rack! Any good ideas to put a bandaid on a heart attack? It’s an 05 with an absolute crap-Ton of miles(216,000 to be exact) my daughter bought it a year ago for 2 grand. And it’s been decent so far. .. it does have a slight lower engine knock for a couple minutes at start up. But oil pressure is good, a/c is cold, rubber is good , radio is loud. But man , I’m stuck, brother. 216k ? Man , i don’t even want to know what’s waitin after that rack unit replacement. What’s next? Tranny? Transfer case? She loves the truck, but man I’m a wonderin if it ain’t time for that big ole magnet in the sky to muckle onto it and take it away!! Lol..

[@TheDaninator]

Is the leak where the two lines go into the rack or where? The two lines that go into the rack have little "button" seals that can easily fall out and get misplaced. I had that happen to me once!

[@timothypaulo7060]

The Daninator no sir. It was a hard fought battle getting the old cup seals out, the new lines went in ok, a bitch to line up. But your teachings were perfect. .. all went sweet . The work I did was leak free. Solved at least 40 percent of the leak. But once I bled the system, a large puddle appeared , far away from the hose zone. This is something far different . I think the rack has gone off to the happy hunting ground

[@TheDaninator]

Bummer! Well, if your daughter is in love with the Trailblazer model, there are plenty of inexpensive ones to be had on Craigslist. Lol

[@timothypaulo7060]

The Daninator you ever change a rack in one of these?

[@timothypaulo7060]

400 bucks for a re-man.. I don’t know . I’m up in the air if I would tackle it.

[@arbucklebryon4335]

06 trailblazer has this problem. If i had to i could do it ,i replaced them on my Santa fe. I'm going to save myself some misery and spend the money to have a shop do it😂

[@tronglieu3931]

You know you own a POS when you have to have a spare car for parts. Change my mind!

[@TheDaninator]

Well, you see... I... uh... it's... um... well... Sorry, can't change it.

[@thefinalgrind]

Eh that's easy. The 29k$ Lambo parts car ended up being a perfect match to fix up the 53k$ Lambo that was "half wrecked" and almost totaled via the dealer. Took 2 months from start to finish but ended up with it flipped it for 130k$. However, more on your point, the Old Man would say "If your plan to "Fix That" is you robbing from one turd& smashing it all into another..... then you'll end up with one big piece of shit my son. Save your time and money, go buy a new fucking truck." Lol

[@jared7897]

It's embarrassing that engineers have so many years of schooling but can't understand that putting the body in the way of a long control arm bolt is beyond impractical. I shouldn't have to use crude methods to re-engineer a car and bend the body just to get the bolt out. Weaving the new lines in is a shit show as well.

[@vbvini]

I have this truck . fun times . lol

[@kfg92311]

I am not looking forward to replacing the mainline. Fingers crossed.