1995 Range Rover Softdash Rover v8 35DLM8 Distributor issues

[@normanstephens5391]

Thanks for the interesting. Diagnosis and Cure. Although it made you jump ay one point.⚡⚡ See you in the next one.

[@DuncMcNutt]

Recently subscribed to your channel. Finding your stuff both interesting and a good laugh. Lots brings back memories. Such as fighting to remove the rotor a pulling the bob weights apart! Then trying to put everything back together. 😂 and first start up after engine swaps etc. Seat ecumenical removals and fixes. Not currently got any Range Rovers but got a F2 for my sins. Keep up the good work.

[@churchhouseclassics]

Thank you 👍🍻

[@eddieflores2852]

Dam good video!! I am having the exact same issues on both my 88/89!! Let u know if the bug was bad!!! Thank u chappie!!!

[@jameswelbourne2038]

14.08.....were you looking for a spark? The lug lead wasn't connected to your tester......?

[@churchhouseclassics]

Good spot, what you are seeing here is me repeating all the tests I had already done off camera and then making an episode from it. The rotor was faulty however 🤦‍♂️

[@peteturier3389]

Dontcha just love a 28kV whack in the morning🤣

[@Leo-dk4we]

I find Rover V8's generally very reliable apart from everything you've just been playing with and everything to do with Hotwire injection system

[@churchhouseclassics]

Hotwire isn't so bad, the factory ROM covers quite a lot of the testing that you might need to do. The Lucas 35dlm8 is ok too but they will wear out and there isn't a lot you can do except replace the baseplate. The rest seems pretty hardy

[@KTM-d7d]

my rotor arm has a few mm of play in which it doesn't spring back, if i keep moving it clockwise then it springs back partially but a portion of the play is un sprung. should I be concerned?

[@churchhouseclassics]

It sounds like the top half of the shaft is binding against the main shaft that runs through the distributor. email me if you want to discuss further

[@allanfranco4464]

WHY DONT YOU HAVE A BENCH VISE SO IT CAN HOLD DISTRIBUTOR FOR YOU AND SAND PAPER SHAFT SO ROTOR DOESNT GET STUCK ,AND USE A OHM METER OR MULTIMETER TO CHECK IF ROTOR IS GROUNDING OUT SHORTED TO GROUND AINT ALL THAT HARD, BUT THANKS FOR THE VIDEO HELPFUL TO THOSE WHO HAVE LITTLE KNOWLEDGE THANKS AGAIN AND THE F WORD DOESNT FIX ANYTHING IT JUST SHOWS YOUR FRUSTRATION UNPROFESSIONAL???

[@churchhouseclassics]

I do have a bench vice, not sure what is wrong with working on the bench though. Sand paper and machined surfaces is probably not the best idea though. I would prefer cleaning up the surfaces and establishing if they are worn due to lack of lubrication. The rotor is grounding under very high voltage, think in the region of 40k volts. Easier and a shed load less painful to swap the cap and rotor for known good items to isolate the faulty component. The issue I had here though is that the faulty part was supplied by a superb UK supplier and I hadn't had anything supplied by him fail in the past. It kind of surprised me. F word is part of my workshop and channel, I am not particularly foul mouthed and certainly not when in company. I like to think that I use it to comedic effect. Unprofessional? maybe so but thanks for watching .👍

[@johnnieveight4925]

But what would cause the coil lead to one minute spark and run to then after a 5 minute run the engine shuts off, test if there’s a spark from the coil lead to earth and nothing?

[@churchhouseclassics]

Is the ignition coil red hot when it stops sparking? if so that would be over heating and then failing. Many other causes including cheap cap and rotor. Email me if you need more detail