Rogeti RG 1 geared tripod head [and accessories]

Keith Cooper looks at the RG-1 geared tripod head from Rogeti.
The gearing gives smooth movement. The head supports up to 10kg and only weighs some 680g
Ideal for architectural photography, there is a more detailed review on the website at www.northlight-images.co.uk/ro...
The TSE frame shown for use with TS-E tilt/shift lenses are reviewed at www.northlight-images.co.uk/ro...
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[@ellisvener5337]

Thanks Keith, Have you compared it to the Arca-Swiss C1?

[@KeithCooper]

Only if someone sends me an Arca-Swiss C1 :-) No way can I afford to buy such stuff... Almost all my reviews and tests are dependent on the generosity of people lending me kit

[@NorbertoNORBYRossi]

I would like to purchase a RG-1 Geared Head. I saw that there is the Mark 2 version and the Mark 3 version. Unfortunately on your site there are no technical specifications, but only a photograph for which you do not understand the difference. It is an important purchase and I would like not to be wrong. Waiting for your information, I greet you.

[@KeithCooper]

I'm afraid I only tested the Mk1 - which works really well I've asked Rogeti for more details, which I'll add to the review if I get them. I don't actually sell stuff at all - there are just my reviews www.northlight-images.co.uk/rogeti-rg-1-geared-tripod-head-review/

[@KeithCooper]

I asked Rogeti about this and they said: "The main platform of mark3 has a new appearance. More teeth at the Both ends of the rolling gear were cut off to avoid scratching your thumb when turning the geared rolling knob. Many changes inside to improve the bearing capacity and the quality of fit." I'll see if I can get one to compare with the old one, which, as I say, works fine for me ... I'm using it on a job later today.

[@NorbertoNORBYRossi]

@@KeithCooper I asked ROGETI for information and they replied: Thanks for reaching us. Q:What are the differences between RG-1 mark2 and mark3 you can see from the outside? A:The main platform has a new appearance. More teeth at the Both ends of the rolling gear were cut off to avoid scratching your thumb when turning the geared rolling knob. Q:What are the differences between RG-1 mark2 and mark3 inside? A:Many changes inside to improve the bearing capacity and the quality of fit.

[@ateliercunha2876]

Hi Keith I would like to know if you can give your opinion on this head versus the Manfrotto 405, if you have also tried it. Thanks.

[@KeithCooper]

I've not tried the manfrotto, but have a similar Benro one. www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-benro-gd3wh-geared-head/ The RG-1, with all it's levels and style of movement, is a completely different layout which I find much better for architectural/interior photos. www.northlight-images.co.uk/rogeti-rg-1-geared-tripod-head-review/ However, the Benro is one I tend to use use for industrial work. The RG-1 gives me more accurate results more easily when I'm doing architectural/interior work, and matches with my TSE frame and L bracket. The GD3WH has clutches making it easier for more varied angles So I use both, but for different work...

[@ateliercunha2876]

@@KeithCooper Thanks Keith. If I understand you correctly, you use the Benro head when you want to work faster, also because of the ease of grips and quick movements if necessary (like the Manfrotto 405 and 410). And Rogeti when you need more precision (like the Arca Swiss and others with great precision). However, could you do all your work with just your Benro head without major problems? Do you put this Benro in terms of performance and build quality (not price) more in line with the Manfrotto 405 (€500-600) or 410 (€200-250)? I had a 410 a few years ago and it wasn't really accurate. The quick plate system had a somewhat difficult mechanism to use that required a lot of habituation and made me once drop my camera. I sold that head and have been using a Novoflex ball head ever since, but now I'm starting to need a geared head again for architectural and interior work.

[@KeithCooper]

I used the Benro before I got the RG-1, so yes, I could use it. The RG-1 gets me a higher proportion of 'spot on' images in terms of levelling - the position of the adjustments just suit what I need when doing architectural work. Speed has relatively little to do with it - the benro is just easier and more convenient to set to different angles. Having clutches is a lot easier than not in this respect. Cost does not generally feature in my comparisons (I don't really track prices, especially of Manfrotto stuff, which often just seems high ;-) - both are good and solid. For general work, and in harsher conditions I'll happily use a basic ball head from one of my K&F tripods ;-) All are Arca style bases.

[@ateliercunha2876]

@@KeithCooper Thanks Keith. I'm enlightened .-)

[@borromine]

How does this compare with the Arca D4?

[@KeithCooper]

Sorry - I've never used a D4

[@jeanm7115]

Thank you for your detailed review. I have a question though. Regarding TSE frame & plate, as it shows there are marks 17/24 and 50. for panning. Does that replace the functionality of the shift purpose on the lens? if so then I can combine the 2 ideas for stitching. at first use the shift on the lens 3 photos, then rotate and another 3 shift photos. I don't know if I made my question clear.

[@KeithCooper]

Glad it was of interest. It is a completely different function. Shift is used to change the framing without moving the camera in any way, whilst panning changes the direction the camera is pointing in. You can use both, but it depends on what you do with the images when you process them. I have two videos explaining left-right and diagonal shifting which show combining panning and shift as examples. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWqclKaFj7RnhrM kzbin.info/www/bejne/innJgKiGpJWLodU I only tend to use up/down stitching for making slightly larger images. For a wide panoramic image I much prefer toy shoot multiple (panned) shots and then decide on the geometry afterwards. A strong left/right shift with a wide lens really emphasises the natural distortion of a rectilinear projection - it also includes the far regions of the image circle, and lower image quality.

[@jeanm7115]

@@KeithCooper Thank you Keith Cooper for your reply and for the other video. I want to explain more what I would like to be able to do if I buy this gear head + panoramic plate + TSE Frame and how to use it with 24mm TS lens. I will talk about 2 examples and each example has 2 sets of photos to stitch. I imagine I have the 24mm TS with camera and the lens is mounted on the TSE frame. The TSE frame mounted on the Panoramic rail at the correct mark. And the Panoramic rail on tripod. It doesn't matter if the examples explained below were taken portrait or landscape, I just want to understand if it is a good idea for even getting wider panoramic view. Example 1: No shift applied during this example. Take one shot, rotate the Panoramic rail (supposedly nodal point is already correct) then take the second shot. Stitch. This is simple Example 2: Applying shift on the lens (lens is fixed being attached to TSE Frame so the camera body/sensor is moving) Take 3 shots to cover the scene from left to right. Rotate the Panoramic rail to the right estimate a good overlap from where the 3rd photo of the 1st set has stopped (we still have the nodal point correct). Take another 3 shots from left to right by applying again shift on the lens. Stitch 3 photos of set 1, stitch 3 photos of set 2 and stitch results of both (or stitch all 6 photos at once) The result is much wider than in example 1 or even of each set of 3 photos in the 2nd example. Is the example 2 possible without Parallax? I feel it should be correct in my theory but unfortunately I cannot test it. Giving more detailed explanation I hope I did a good presentation. I am budgeting to buy it and more info is always good. Thank you once again.

[@KeithCooper]

I'm not sure why you'd do this - it seems like making extra work for a potentially worse result? I can't see why you would make left/right stitched sets and then stitch these, as opposed to just turning the camera to portrait mode, taking 6 (or whatever) overlapping images and stitching these. The shift seems redundant here, unless you use vertical shift for the lens in portrait mode to get the vertical composition and take a panned set of shifted images (all shifted by the same amount) and stitch them. The fall-off in quality and rectilinear distortion means that I rarely ever use left/right shifts for wide panoramics, for large prints. See this article for more about this www.northlight-images.co.uk/tutorial-large-black-white-print-harbour-staithes/ PS - It's a lot easier for me to reply via email than the rather clunky YT comments system... (mail links on any of my articles)

[@jeanm7115]

@@KeithCooper Thank you Keith for sparing time to answer my questions. Basically I was trying to make use of the TSE frame + TS lens together with The Panoramic rail. Otherwise true, just a normal pano-rail and normal lens is a cheaper and less work. But true if Shift vertical with pan horizontal makes sense if final result comes out great. Thanks for the article you sent me, it's a long one I will read it carefully. Cheers.

[@jdh_images]

Great review Keith - will the frame fit any arca-swiss head ?

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks - I don't know of any reason it shouldn't, but then again I've very few to test it against. I used to use the frame on a Benro one.

[@urtedavid]

Hi!, very cool video. Thanks for that. I have some questions about the maximum weight capacity of this head. The MKII version specifications says that can upload up to 12Kg. I usually shot with a Linhof Master Technika and with a Pentax 67 medium format camera. I currently have a Manfrotto 229 3D Super Pro that can upload up to 12Kg too and I didn't find any issue during using my large or medium format cameras with it. Do you know if it would handle well this type of equipment? I am looking for a precise and fluid tripod head. I love de gear head systems and my dream is to have an Arca-Swiss C1 Cube, but it cost a lot... Maybe some day, in the future. But I found the Rogeti's gear head can maybe do the job quite good and precise. So, maybe you can tell me more about the load capacity of this head and If you think that will handle with zero problems a 4x5 large format camera kit, like a Linhof Technika. Thanks for all, best regards,

[@KeithCooper]

Glad it was of interest, but I'm afraid I don't use any big kit like that.

[@karpenterken1]

Ridiculous to try to show movements of a tripod head while being held in your hand or held down by hand onto a table top. Put the thing on a tripod to properly show the movements and features.

[@KeithCooper]

Disagree - the video is only really intended to show the type and range of movement. It supports the written review to give a feel for what the mount does, and its scale. Putting it on a tripod would show nothing else that this doesn't. Sorry it's not to your liking, even though this was one of my first attempts at video, I'd do it broadly the same if I did it again - which given I've a new mount from them to test won't be too far in the future.

[@karpenterken1]

@@KeithCooper I don't think you understand what I'm saying. To accurately portray the movements of a tripod head, you can't hold it in your hand without moving the whole head while trying to show how it moves in a particular way. That's why you need to show the movements while mounted on a stable tripod, like it would be in actual use without hand movements disturbing what you're trying to get the viewer to understand. As you said, the type and range of movement, the viewer can't get a good visual understanding of while it's also moving around in your hands. Forget what you know about the product. Think from a viewer's perspective and make it easily understandable or easily relatable. That's my constructive criticism/advice that hopefully helps you in the future.