What Happened to the Jeep Comanche?!?

[@segarza]

Regarding the engine running bad, I would check for a drop in fuel pressure while your driving it using a mechanical gauge.

[@66gtoify]

What I like about all of you guys is that you drive old stuff. Makes me feel right at home. I have a 1998 Explorer, 2001 Tahoe and a 2004 Dakota. When I go anywhere I put on my mask so nobody knows who I am.

[@carlholland3819]

do your old trucks have 50k in parts in them too? they drive new 100k trucks to pull their old stuff. do you have 3 cuz 2 are always broken? i have a 94 toyota with 400k miles

[@66gtoify]

@@carlholland3819 Yep, my 2001 Tahoe is always broken down. As soon as I fix one thing something else brakes. This has been going on for almost 10 years. 1998 Explorer, 276,000 miles. Still going strong. 1992 Ranger I gave to my grand son 356000 miles going strong. 2004 Dakota, 88,000 going strong. I never know when any of these are going to give out. The Tahoe, Explorer and the Dakota aren't worth anything so i just keep driving them and am going to continue driving them until they quit. Can't afford anything new. Can't afford to keep up with the neighbors. Afraid to buy anything new, too expensive to have repaired and too hard and complicated to repair my self.

[@revxrock]

RUDY YOUR GRILL IS UPSIDE DOWN

[@teedawg2112]

No just flip your phone around 😉

[@Chris_at_Home]

That’s funny. I’ve had 3 Cherokees over the years, an 84,85 and 89. I stripped the 84 down and painted it. I had been driving it for over a year and someone came up to me and said”your grill is on upside down”

[@johnavonyates4105]

I love Comanches don't give up on this build. By the way Rudicon looked tough as nails today in Matt's video.

[@borg5424]

Rudy: I don't wanna get it on me! Also Rudy: I'll taste it!

[@martinhogan5970]

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@WW-wf8tu]

Well, there is that. And there is, you have this thing on a trailer(donor wagoner)and instead of bringing it to the shop and or in the shop,(so you are close to all your tools) the work is done 50-100 yards away from the shop. And only AFTER trying to carry it that far does he get a wheel barrow. 🤷‍♂ Planning does not seem to be his strong suit. 🤣 Which is why at the last minute he is trying to fix it for Easter which is when this was published. 🤔 Plan, KISS and the world can be an easy place to live in. 😉

[@triprodgers3343]

Good thing I didn't step in it...

[@joesephrich1924]

To a mechanic’s ear, it sounds like you possibly have a fuel delivery issue, ie. fuel pump on the fritz or plugged filter. I’d check/clean all your grounds as well. It also sounds like you might have a slight ignition timing issue, but that could stem from low fuel delivery under full throttle. If your exhaust smells excessively rich, it might be a timing issue such as your spark advance not advancing. I’ll be waiting to see what you find. Keep up the good work. Enjoy the content and also really digging the Charger.

[@manchurob6432]

Rudy is back! Missed your adventures.

[@johnpearson492]

I have a Renix Comanche. First thing you should check is to see if the header bolts for the intake and exhaust are tight. It is common for those bolts to be loose and cause a big intake leak. You did good to refresh all of the sensors and grounds.

[@bryantanderson5278]

I had the same thing happen with mine. But mine came down to a crack in my distributor cap, once it warmed up it started running like crap.

[@thelonewrangler1008]

I could type a whole novel about my experience with the 4.0 running like crap once it warms up but here's a super summarized version. For starters it's an 05 TJ and probably means absolutely nothing to your situation. It started with cam, crank, and 02 sensor codes. After replacing all of that she ran great for about a month but still got some random 02 codes. Then I found something about resetting the computer memory so it can re-learn the new sensors. (Disconnect the positive and touch it to the negative for 30 seconds to discharge the capacitors in the ecm and reconnect, turn ignition to on but not start, headlights on, headlights off, ignotion off) Ran great for a few weeks and then my alternator quit, bought a new one and still no charge. So then I dove into the wiring and found a bunch of ground terminals on the engine that weren't in the best shape and replaced those. Alternator started working and the 02 codes were finally gone but I was back to it going into limp mode after it warmed up but just getting getting crank sensor codes. After nearly setting the jeep on fire to collect the insurance money and countless nights combing through all the "expert opinions" on the forums I kept seeing something about non Mopar sensors being problematic. Luckily I still had my old original sensors and put them back in and reset the computer again without any expectations of it fixing the issue. Well it's been 3 months and she's running perfect for now🤞 Now I just have to tear half the motor apart to replace the rotten freeze plug I've been patching with jb weld to get me through winter. And yes it's an 05 with a rotten freeze plug because I guess jeep saved a ton of money using steel plugs instead of brass🤦‍♂️🤬 I'm sure my novel won't help you but it might help somebody with way less patience or mechanical aptitude than me to NOT buy an old-ish jeep

[@danimal865]

I may be wrong but didnt he say it was a renix jeep and wouldnt that mean its a v6?

[@thepubliceye]

@@danimal865 No renix is the computer on the older AMC jeeps inlin 6

[@williamwallace9826]

The problem is that none of the above applies to a Renix Comanche. The Renix ECU doesn't "learn" anything. It's a cold start, every time.

[@1darksky89]

I had a 1998 Jeep yj with 4.0 L six was running much like yours had a warped intake manifold got worse when hot Machined the head and put new throttle body injector ran like a top after

[@neilfromclearwaterfl81]

On the freeze plugs you might find that most often its owners who don't flush out and replace their coolant often enough that have problems with freeze plugs, radiators and heater cores. The anti-corrosion components in coolant do fail over time and the system then needs to be drained, flushed and refilled on a regular schedule before that happens. If you wait until the coolant tests out as bad then damage has most likely already started. I've only had freeze plug issues on used vehicles where the previous owners were lax in flushing the coolant. Same with brake fluid, after two years it has to be replaced to get the best service life from your brakes. On vehicles I've owned from new that have steel freeze plugs I've gone 20/30 years or longer without an issue just due to following best practice on coolant flushes. Never had a brake line rot out internally or had to replace a wheel cylinder/caliper either due to following a 2 year brake flush schedule. Some will counter that on brakes you only need to flush brake fluid if a test strip inserted in the reservoir shows its bad however that gives you a false sense of security since brake fluid does not recirculate back to the reservoir on most systems so you can end up with pockets of failed acidic brake fluid eating away at various components throughout the system even when a test strip indicates the fluid in the reservoir as good. Preventative maintenance is much more convenient and cost effective than waiting until something breaks. On a used vehicle even if the seller "claims" that maintenance is up to date I presume they are mistaken (or worse) and treat it like a vehicle that has not be serviced correctly for a long time. So far judging from what I've found most sellers over the past 50/60 years have been mistaken with a very rare few actually being correct. On the codes you really need to look past just code reading and start looking at the data logs after putting on your Dick Tracy hat otherwise you end up like Inspector Clouseau bumbling along and accidentally stumbling upon the solution after a prolonged ordeal. Glad you found the root cause in the bad grounds which is why I tell the kids to check all your grounds first before doing anything else. Best!

[@trjnsd6874]

! You found my '87 Wagoneer! Bought one new in San Diego. Definitely not off-roaded but good for two new kids and groceries in the rain. 195 hp 4.0! Has possibilities....

[@NickJensen200]

Mine was doing the same thing. Fixed it with a 5.3 😂

[@kevinanderson7067]

Rudy - Call the Bleepin jeep buddies and do an episode together to troubleshoot the Comanche problems. They could probably trouble shoot this blindfolded. Hope I'm not giving them too much credit but ''share'' each other as a resource to solve the problem. Love the videos you put out - keep learning as you go - you get better every episode.

[@daniellilly7399]

the early model engines used a soft lobe cam and over time the lobes junk out and do exactly what yours is doing you can replace the cam but i would go v8 or v6 my self

[@sigmanoir]

Janelle is the best girlfriend a guy could have. She is so supportive and gets right in there and helps out. Also she's awesome with a camera. Looking forward to the next video from EJS.

[@marcolopez8764]

Fuel pump for sure, I had the same issue.

[@lindagarner8411]

So good to see Janelle again!!

[@budgetyj9844]

By the way it’s behaving I would take a guess between the fuel pump is causing an issue or possible a fuel pressure regulator could be an issue too

[@SPHYNX99752]

I had the same thought. I was leaning towards the regulator, or fuel return line.

[@brunomortensen5841]

Or vakuum in the tank?

[@pharmmech]

Check the fuel filter first

[@chrisprattt]

Oh man your bring back my younger days of doing that stuff lol Thx man👊💯🙌🙏

[@allencharlei8351]

To me it seems like a fuel delivery issue

[@dave_n8pu]

Try changing the fuel pump with a known good one, that would confirm if the one in there now is good or bad, also check/change fuel filter(s).

[@brandonmoore9373]

My YJ had this very same problem. It turned out to be the strainer in the tank getting filled with junk. It would run great for the first couple minutes when the junk settles to the bottom then cut out.

[@johnkeech9937]

My thoughts exactly. .possible fuel filter plugging or pump gitn super weak. .

[@ssu7653]

Try changing filters/strain for the fuel, if you got water in the fuel those filter clog up REAL fast

[@robertquackenbush5547]

I was thinking the samething during the test drive Rudy

[@jimjohnson7886]

Rudy I love your channel. I did not read all of the comments so this may have been said already. My 1989 Cherokee with the 4,0 had the same problem where it would not rev up. If it has a catalytic converter it is plugged. To fix it disconnect the rear exhaust pipe. Take a long bar and ram it in the converter. I used a long digging bar. Keep doing this until you break through the other side. You want to have a large hole all the way through the converter. Reattach the exhaust pipe and your go to go.

[@ahndajong]

Did you check fuel pressure? I would also check compression. Someone made a comment about the exhaust system and I agree with that.

[@barrychandler5250]

I have a 88 comanche 2 WD. 70,000 original miles with bad wiring harness, the under hood part. Been to Talahassee pic-a-part and several others. Unable to locate old jeep comanchee or cherokee sport. How do you find so many parts cars. I am 70 as of last week and would love to get my comanche running again.

[@whatsoutthere6822]

I knew it was the transfer case when he shifted it into park. I heard the parking pawl grind. They do the same thing if you cram it into park while moving too fast. ;)

[@SPHYNX99752]

My exact thoughts.

[@bdalton0295]

Check the timing once it warms up. My 88xj had issues with that. I've also had the same transfer case problem.

[@chadpietsch4683]

Love the channel, Actually as a life long jeep guy I ran 258’s for a long time and all I had experience with was the 4.0 HO and I thought it was garbage, threw 2 rods in ours. Then just this year I bought a Renix Comanche. I absolutely live it. 224 at 2500 vs 3-4k in the Ho for 225. Deletable emissions, everything is simple.

[@robertquackenbush5547]

Rudy anytime Janelle shows up in your videos makes them better 😊

[@TurkeySandwichJr]

Robert you are being weird again

[@robertquackenbush5547]

@@TurkeySandwichJr just staing the truth dude

[@dandahermitseals5582]

Ya might wanna check your gas cap. Mine did the same thing and I swapped the gas cap. Problem solved. That model had the remix ecm in it Mopar upgraded them. All these vehicles have electrical Grimlins Dandahermit

[@Chadh90]

Rudy I wish you did more videos. Watching some of the stuff you do inspires me to be more creative with my on-going JLU build.

[@Voyagersk9]

That’s such a cool truck! I love it! Hope you can figure out the issue! The lift and tires look amazing!

[@TheOneAlaskanRedOktober]

The two most common problems with the RENIX 4.0L. are CPS and fuel ballast resistor. Known problems with "new" CPS. Only get the NAPA or OEM ones, others have quality issues. Ballast resistor can be bypassed to make it run until you get a new one. Cruiser54 is a great resource for the Comanche. Almost all of the problems(and fixes) in one place. I love mine, and hope to see yours on the trail soon.

[@CaliBorn73]

When he listed off what all he replaced I immediately thought the same on the CPS. And +1 on Cruiser, dude's a Renix professor.

[@babelsalot]

Same thing here. My 90 XJ ran just like the comanche, replaced the CPS and didn't help. My issues came from the harness. 23 year old Mopar wiring against a hot block does some serious damage. I diag'd the wiring and values were good, until one time they weren't. The engine would heat the wiring and short it out, but intermittently. I suggest pulling the CPS wiring harness all the way back and check it.

[@DB-yj3qc]

👍 I was trying to remember it's correct name that dang ballast resistor if it corroded, cracked or damaged. A replacement one years ago was a PTA to find in early 2000s.

[@jonaathansimons7938]

The fuel pump ballast resistor is only there to reduce fuel pump noise...delete the silly thing on any wheeler! X2 on Cruiser54's Mostly Renix info stash, invaluable for any Renix owner.

[@jeffereybradford7704]

Did you check the coil? There was a recall on them in the early 90's. Had 2 go bad on me with 2 different symptoms. One, intermittent miss under a load causing reduced power and the other engine would only run at idle.

[@KletusTheFetus]

Just an idea but check harness plugs and see if they have wiggle room. Chased an issue with my 4.0 GC forever. Was the harness plug on the coil intermittently wiggling loose

[@codystelzer5700]

Seems to be a fuel related issue to me. Could be wrong but a good place to start anyway.

[@robbiewitzke4386]

I had a 96 yj doing the same thing before turned out the injector harness was bad got some new pigtails and solved the problem good luck!

[@jeremyjmailloux]

Check the engine grounds by the dipstick tube. shite ground will cause lots of weird running issues.

[@nocrackhere]

6:16 your girl popping in to say its broken, is CLASSIC

[@Voyagersk9]

Don’t give up on it! I would love to see more content with the truck!

[@brandonlloyd1935]

Had a similar issue idle fine falls flat on its fave under load. Final diagnosis was a bad stator in the distributor. Replaced the distributor and has ran great ever since

[@motownXJdad9565]

ok so heres my take on your Waggy, just like my 1987 2 dr XJ, its a holy grail wagoneer, its the last year of AMC, and the first year of the 4.0 in the XJs. now, if youre really lucky it will have the factory towing package with the rear Dana44 and limited slip diff like my XJ, which was only available 87-90 in XJs, its much more common in MJ Comanches. your Boston is awesome he should be in every video👍👍

[@meaninglessvalue7778]

Got me an 88 2dr just swapped from closed to open cooling system this weekend and upgraded the trac bar and mount. Got a small coolant leak from the waterpump inlet tube, should have used pipe sealer rather than Teflon tape😑

[@ozzy7926]

Not sure if this is your issue but sounds like an O2 sensor issue. My 99 TJ 4.0 had a o2 sensor go bad and at certain speeds it would pop and backfire and I would feel it under my feet. Replaced the o2 sensor and my issue was fixed. This was 10 or so years ago. And it still runs good today.

[@reddog543211]

Great video guys....excellent content.....fixing and repairs....thanks for sharing this with us

[@my75bowtie]

Had the same issue with my 02 TJ and it ended up being the crank sensor. It was replaced with a new cheap sensor that didn't work. Ended up getting an OEM and ensure proper air gap and good as new.

[@941Earl]

Distributor or the breaker plate under the cap.

[@Motormike2025]

Thanks for sharing 👍. And happy Easter to you and your family.

[@AFloridaSon]

Did everyone going to EJS wait until the last few days to get their rigs ready?

[@MattsOffRoadRecovery]

Yes. Pretty odd question. Lol

[@jasonstrout4502]

Of course they did. When else would everybody start fixing their stuff. If you don't have a deadline, no project ever gets done. I thought everyone knew that.

[@AFloridaSon]

@@jasonstrout4502 Very true. I've been guilty of it myself.

[@AFloridaSon]

@@MattsOffRoadRecovery OMG, I got a reply from MORR on Rudy's channel. This is the best Easter ever - lol. Happy Easter MORR crew

[@evanwalker6258]

I had the same issue on my ‘88 Wagoneer Limited, a twin to the one you’ve got. And it ended up being the flex plate, if you swapped flex plates with the new transmission make sure it’s one from another renix, and ones from the parts stores do not work either, the holes are punched incorrectly

[@charlesm8834]

Rudy, I know very little about cars, but I have encountered a situation where a clogged exhaust caused similar things. The one I seen had a Muddobbers nest in it. Just a possible issue. You’ll figure it out 👍👍

[@DiscoFang]

Good idea but our ears tell us different though.

[@kyleandhaydenmarsh]

I had a 95 ZJ with the 4.0 It did the exact same thing your MJ is doing. It ran fine at cold temp until warm. I replaced the o2 sensor. Has been fine ever since.

[@jamesbigham9036]

Rudy it seems like a fuel pick up issue because it doesn't seem to get enough fuel when you push on the throttle. Something seems to be restricting fuel. I know you will get it figured out. I hope you guys have a good time at Easter Jeep. Are you going to be building a rock crawler for Janelle? In my opinion she definitely needs one because I know she will be great at it

[@ninalaurie1887]

I had that once, it ended up being the fuel pump on mine, good luck.

[@joetardo8321]

Had a similar prob with my 4.0 check compression before and after it heats up, mine was running 50 ish psi cold and dropped under 20 hot it was a cracked block…… I hope urs is a more simple prob! Good Luck

[@gritsmcgee9137]

Could it be as simple as a gunked up fuel filter? I know almost nothing about mechanic work, but it reminds me of an old work truck I once had to drive around. Good luck sir and happy Easter to you and yours.

[@gilbertsantos2969]

I have worked on a few Comanches with that problem found it to be the exhaust system not enough compression for the motor or not enough getting out good luck

[@JDoors]

I bought a Comanche when they came out. Specced it to be an economical commute vehicle for the Winter months and nothing else planned for it. Few options, 4x4 but nothing off-road-ee. 4 cyl. with the 5 speed manual. Whoa did I love that vehicle and used the livin' heck outta it. Had more adventures than I ever dreamed of (including a couple of saved-my-ass moments). Owned it for, like, ten years, no major mechanical issues, but rust finally hit, and things like the headliner dropping, just age issues. Then I got t-boned. Sad day.

[@kevbev1524]

My first vehicle I bought after graduation was a 1984 wagoner limited select-trac, Put a 4" rancho lift and wheeled it. Nice way to grow up. I think it's the blinker fluid sensor, if it shorts out it'll start running like a blinker, off and on, off and on. Have a hippidy hoppidy holiday 😊

[@richglenn3729]

Blinker fluid is only on the early Dodge Vipers. True fact, you can see the fluid level in a little tube in the headlights. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gonIZX-IqshknJI

[@dozersgarage5420]

My 89 Comanche did similar, I found two issues. The hose disconnected from the fuel pump in the tank, and the bolt for the TPS was stripped and not holding it in place. A clamp on the hose and a heli-coil in the throttle body solved the issues. Hope this helps point the right direction.

[@willanderson5088]

My grandpa had one of these until he couldn’t drive anymore. I’d love to have one some day. Cool little truck

[@Yes_This_Is_Dog]

Comanche club is the place to go, post a thread about how yours is running and they will have your problem Also go to cruiser 54’s renix tips

[@AFloridaSon]

Rudy tastes unknown liquid. Starts whole new pandemic. 😂

[@outlawbillionairez9780]

Andromeda Fluid. 😶‍🌫️

[@alaskanfamilyoutbackadvent5743]

😂

[@genedwg6689]

Following the lead of the Car Wizard, taste to determine the fluid

[@northernmichiganoverland]

Check and make sure the intake is not sucking air? I had similar symptoms and was a cracked intake runner.

[@unnamed255]

Hey! I did a 2.5 to 4.0 engine swap (tho it was a HO 4.0) and I had similar issues with the o2 sensor. (There were chewed up wires and a bad sensor too) I wish luck finding it out from Hungary✌🏼

[@samuelhylton5842]

I had the same issue! I know you said you tried a crank position sensor, but I would try another one. I went down the list like you did, to the point I was pulling my hair out. Warrantied my crank position sensor, replaced it again and fixed it. Best of luck, let us know what you find.

[@matthewmccarty7071]

My 93 Cherokee was having similar issues. Ended up that cat came apart and clogged the muffler. I don’t remember what they used in the older 4.0 but I issues with my 06 wrangler running poorly and it was oil pump drive assembly was worn so it kept loosing the timing. Hope this helps.

[@AllAroundGarage88]

Check the distributor In those years I'm pretty sure it's a renix generation the distributor not only does timing but it messes with the fuel as well. I had the same problem in my 90 cherokee and my buddies 89 cherokee.

[@Mitzi209]

I'd be looking at the spark side coil distributor leads, coils do brake down when they get hot and under load but will run fine at idle

[@BillGilson-de7dh]

Had S10 chev pickup do same thing acted like a fuel problem, was a bad coil going out

[@allmightygreat1892]

Yes me too. Got close to 1000000 miles total pass 3 trucks. Every time its been ignition modular

[@daveyridesadirtbike]

I had an 87 with a similar running issue. The mounting tab on the distributor housing broke and allowed the distributor to slide out and twist under load. It would run at idle and wot but got progressively worse and finally wouldn’t run at wot. New distributor and a spacer so that the mounting tab tightened flush was the answer for mine.

[@mikescott3377]

Great to seeing you are back! What about the C 10?

[@randomcitizen2384]

Mine was doing the same thing. I had used Amazon crank position sensor, O’Reilly‘s crank position sensor and auto zone crank position sensor. All of them were garbage and did the same thing. There were no Mopar crank position sensors to be found anywhere so I got one from NAPA and like magic. It all started working again. I later found a Mopar sensor from Puerto Rico and ordered it just to have it in case I could never find one again. I checked the resistance on all the different sensors and there was a wide range on all of them but the least resistance I found was the Eclin brand from NAPA was almost identical to the brand new Mopar sensor, just because the sensor is new does not mean it’s any good. Stick with OEM if at all possible.

[@coreydallara8778]

My daughter’s 90 fj was doing similar. She had a vacuum leak on the little hose that goes from the throttle body to the aic. The fitting was broken. We also did cap, rotor, plugs but the vacuum leak was the culprit on herds

[@cs1814]

Check the distributor for shaft play had the same issue with my renix and had too much play in it when the engine got hot causing a pickup issue in the distributor

[@rhysgray1233]

The only things you didn't check was the pick up in the dizzy and the oxygen sensors, I have had those go bad in the past causing similar issues

[@Paul-nq3xb]

As far as the 231 transfer case, I found several 208 transfer cases in customers vehicles that when the shift fork got worn out that coming to a stop (like a stop light) the excessive wear in the fork allowed the annulus gear to slide forward on the shaft spines (inertia) into neutral. A quick fix to drive it home/shop is to shift it into four wheel drive. You may have experienced the same scenario with the broken shift fork on the 231 and it’s range fork shift hub. Of course you weren’t able to shift it with a broken fork.

[@wackowacko8931]

Some possible sources are intake manifold gasket, EGR valve, water in the gas tank - especially if it runs ok cold but gets bad when warm.

[@randy1336]

It could be a bunch of things that make it run rough like that. I've had a clogged up catalytic converter cause problems like that. It idols fine, but when you try to increase the air flow (especially after it has warmed up) it just chokes up the engine and runs crappy. It's pretty easy to just open up the exhaust somewhere upstream of the catalytic converter and see if that makes a difference. Good luck finding the problem.

[@Cobes_347]

My buddy’s 92 Cherokee had that problem we did a fuel regulator off the fuel real and a new fuel pump seemed to fix all the weird running problems. Maybe would say a exhaust intake gasket might be in the works if it’s popping out the intake. Or could have a busted up exhaust manifold. Those would be the first place I would look. If you can too. Thought a fuel pressure regulator on there and see if it’s dropping when on the gas.

[@Wizzard033]

1. Distributor/coil/ground 2. jumped time a tooth 3. Wiring woes I've just chased that gremlin on one of my G20 TBI Chevy's

[@aaronhill7197]

Are the stock fender flairs moved up further or what? If so i think i might have to find some

[@captcurt31]

It was a great idea to leave the drip pan sitting directly under the transfer case to soften the blow as it fell free. I wonder if the mystery fluid makes good rust inhibitor? That part of the video made a real SPLASH.

[@Mikey45013]

Running issue is a vacuum line going to the firewall had same issue with mine

[@richardcarnahan6335]

Hey Rudy, sounds like a fuel problem. Either a bad pump clogged filter. Or possibly a collapsing fuel line. Or possibly a air leak in the lines. Does that have a fuel return line. I’ve seen a clogged fuel return line cause excessive pressure causing weird issues. I hope that helps.

[@rockyledbetter9818]

I was told when my XJ done that it was because there is a critical ground in the clock spring I replaced my clock spring and the issue has gone away. Before that I replaced TP sensor, Crank Sensor, new plug wires cap ect, nothing seemed to ever clear it up. Since yours is missing maybe it's the culprit?

[@josephmarten5398]

Did you check compression? I had an issue similar to this once that was a cracked intake valve seat. It would run fine at idle, then start sputtering and running terrible under load - basically any time the cylinder pressures were high enough.

[@raattaway]

My CJ7 was doing something similar and after replacing most of the parts you mentioned, I finally replaced the Ignition control module and like magic the problem was solved. Just a thought..

[@UnholiestJedi]

Aka broken. Love the summation & delivery, Janelle

[@k4fun64]

My 91 Cherokee developed a small miss. We found #6 plug fouled out and replaced it... only for it to do it again. And got worse as time went on. A compression check showed bad on #6 only. Ended up a hole in the piston. Hopefully yours isn't that serious, but might be worth a check. Really enjoy the videos!!!

[@davidetchellsetchells4692]

Timing chain, cam position sensor. And there is a small Allen or torx screw on the renix throttle body to set idle A/F ratio. Ask me how I know😂

[@fullmetaldetectorist8031]

Make sure the valves are lifting rite, iv had a rounded cam lobe in a sb Chevy 350 that would backfire from the intake

[@troy510]

I have an older land rover that does the same thing as Rudy's jeep. It even makes that exact same backfire popping sound. I have gone threw the whole fuel system, Fuel pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator, It makes 40 psi like it should at the rail. I tested all the injectors and they all worked, so didn't replace them. All new NGK spark plugs and wires. The truck will run great all day, Then like a switch it will do what rudy's jeep does. Just loses all power but will idle rough. It throws O2 sensor codes that say it's a lean condition. Idk if it's just a bad batch of O2 sensors when I replaced them? Or if it really is running lean, Or exhaust only being plugged up sometimes? But all the exhaust seems to run fine all the way threw. No exhaust leaks either, I can't figure it out, Might just try replacing the entire exhaust system. Maybe the CAT is getting plugged up or something.

[@tmwz64stang]

I had one. The sock filter on the end of the fuel pump disintegrated and plugged up the pump. Shit would run fine sometimes, sometimes it’d run like yours. It would still build good fuel pressure. But the flow wasn’t there. Might be worth checking out.

[@xdpreacher5917]

Sounds like mine on a start up when the fuel rail gets too hot, for me even though my coolant temp says about 210 it will still run that rough with that much power sounding the same and insulating the fuel rail fixed that for me atleast and could be something to check out

[@tylervincent4559]

Do you try key method to check for codes , to me it sounds like a sensor but you've replaced most of those. Could be wiring issues, MAP vacuum hose , vacuum leak

[@EfOneAddict]

Fuel pump (check pressure at Shrader valve on fuel rail), vacuum leak. Also, I’ve had bad (new) crank position sensors. I know they’re pain to replace but I would try installing a known good one. I also recommend OE or OEM for that particular sensor.

[@mawuho1566]

Sorry for my bad technical English in advance. I had a similar behaving car a few years ago. It was the ABS sensor in the rear axel (I'm not sure if your Comanche has got ABS) which was coroded and sent false signals to the main computer.... Took us quite some time and tries to find but after changing it the car was driving fine (normal throttle response) and is still today. All the best from Germany, Maximilian.

[@LanceMorris]

I battled a renix jeep with a very similar issue. Extended crank, then when it fired it would run fine for a while. After it came up to temp it would run like junk and fall on it's face at full throttle. Mine ended up being a weak spring in the fuel pressure regulator. I installed one for a GM TBI system think it was a 14lb spring. Ran like a top after that. Good luck!

[@app4902]

It seems like a timing issue if it’s backfiring and stuff. Mine did something similar and I replaced the cam position sensor to fix it. It comes with a distributor on mine but I don’t have a remix

[@willbaxter5272]

I say fuel delivery and/or timing. Good luck. I love the Comanche, don't give up on it.

[@TheChevyman383]

My 96 Cherokee started running like that after 3 years of no problems. Seems like after it gets warm it starts acting up but stop let it sit a few min then it’s fine til it warms up again. I’ve replaced everything you named off and still can’t figure it out!

[@roadrunner3281]

FWIW: My 94 XJ had similar issues as your Comanche. Turned out to be the Cat Converter was pretty plugged / clogged up. Replaced it, and then it ran fine.

[@goreerh]

That’s doing the exact same thing my Ford ranger did win the ignition module went bad. It would get warm and act crazy. Could also be a weak fuel pump/clogged filter.

[@jh77sly]

This is classic ignition module issue. Seen this on every ford/chevy/dodge I've ever been a part of working on with this exact issue.

[@puppieeeee]

On my 87 Renix, I had a similar hesitation on acceleration, but not quite as bad. I chased and changed nearly everything like you. The last two things i changed before the problem went away was the O2 sensor and the vacuum harness. I think it may have been the O2, but don't really know since I changed them at the same time.

[@kiwibrett]

2 thoughts, vacuum leak or half blocked fuel filter. For vac leak test, get the motor running rough, then spray tiny bursts of butane close in around the induction system. If the engine note smooths, shes sucking in butane at that spot instead of air. Long bbq lighters with the flint disabled should be quite accurate and reach difficult places. Face shield on, extinguisher beside you and definitely outdoors with pauses to let unburnt butane disapate. But ive never had an issue doing it with due care - and am safely in New Zealand!