SDI Eclik Factory Race Series comparison

This week we test what SDi's E-Click system can do to wake up the Fox Factory Race Series Live valves.
More info at www.eclikshocks.com
Big thank you to everyone that helped make this video:
Cesar @westcoastraptor
Wayne @offroad_guy_wayne
Eric @ericquiros8
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[@davejordan2337]

This is a game changer for sure. Looking forward to more vids. Keep up the good work.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

We have a few planned

[@jasonarend5396]

Great video! Looking forward to more videos on this system

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Thanks man.

[@frankforcier5848]

Thx Dirty. I would of never known about this without your videos. I ordered the SDI for my 2020 Raptor. Forged Offroad is installing. They'll also be tuning the Live Valves to give me the best overall. I'm running HD3 Deavers w Eiboch springs plus level kit and 4+ innovate wheels on 37's x 13.5 wide. I'll be taking it to Death Valley for 3 days a shortly after installation. I'm super excited to see how it runs. I'll let you know how it goes.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Thanks man. Something you wrote though. Did you say you have Eibachs plus a leveling collar? How much lift is that up front? Eibachs are right at the limit of what the stock front can handle. Anymore and your going they front boots and front axles more often.

[@mo_muscle3513]

Outstanding .... as usual .... 👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Thanks 🙏

[@T4nkcommander]

As always, excellent video. I have to say I think Baja + Desert was best - in Street + Normal for these particular obstacles, you had less rebound on the dip (good), but were blowing through the shock travel a lot more in general as compared to desert mode. Still way better that stock, but come up on a surprise hit and you'll eat up the travel whose limits you were already approaching. The added stiffness of the offroad settings made for a much flatter trajectory overall, and even with the donkey kick the front remained quite level and planted, right in the middle of travel where you'd want it to be. Now, running in 2H you could lose a bit of speed with the wheels off the ground, but if you are running against the clock you'd be running in 4H anyway. As a final note - you might remind your friend that acceleration, braking, shifting, throttle, and traction profiles are different between all the modes, and the offroad modes definitely provide better performance off-tarmac. My stickied guide on FordRaptor forum goes into detail on why, but you should always run the correct mode for the conditions you are in.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Some good points yeah. But that bucking the truck was doing when In Baja is never good and could results in some major loss of control. I would much rather use all the suspension than leave the ground like that. Specially considering this was replicating that surprise scenario. Now as far as drive modes. Yes they make things easier. But not needed. Gen1 has just one drive mode and it performs just as good without it. I loved the modes on my Gen2s. But now driving a Gen1 I find that the truck did a lot for me. Too much even and I had to relearn and get rid of some bad habits.

[@T4nkcommander]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Your braking distance will nearly double in the onroad modes - they actually make you do it at Raptor Assault (I've got videos up if you are curious). The offroad modes kill ABS, so that you get full stop on the brakes. Normal, Sport, and Weather will all use ABS no matter what, and thus increase braking distance offroad (not good). As far as the other stuff, while the throttle mapping is preference, the shift points are hard-controlled by the truck (excepting paddle shifters), and Baja mode is the only mode that gets Anti-lag for the turbos. So if you are pushing the truck the modes will make a big difference, all else equal.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

I’ve done Raptor assault and went thru the braking demonstration. ABS is never disabled. It’s intervention is Just reduced so the truck is more willing to lock up the tires. Will reduce braking distance but not by much. Drive modes make it easier to offroad. Throttle mapping, shift points, even air bag deployment force all change with the modes. Do you need them to get the same performance from the truck? No. But they make it so anyone with any experience level can have fun offroad and stay safe. Gen1 without any drives modes has been a total blast and way more enjoyable to drive. But it requires your attention. Driver skills and ability to control the truck are more important. I find that I enjoy the more analog way of off-roading better

[@T4nkcommander]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad The only way to improve braking and acceleration (via shift points) is by changing drive modes. So assuming you are driving equally well, if you are in Baja mode (or offroad mode in the Gen 1) you will drive faster and be more safe. Better braking is pretty simple. Safer any way you slice it, and being able to brake later saves you time. Better shift points is also pretty obvious. In the end, more people opt for what feels fun than what is actually best, but factually Baja mode is the best mode for bajaing. Had a number of people argue the point with me at the local track, but laptimes don't lie. Almost all of them come back on their own accord and tell me Baja 4H works best. Last point - the Gen 1 is nowhere near analog - both the Gen 1 and Gen 2's computer logic is the same. Both are interfering with your driving no matter what, the only difference is that the Gen 1 is less user friendly in telling you what it is doing. That offroad button is doing all the braking and shift point calibrations the Gen 2 offroad modes do, but less dialed-in. If you don't hit that button, you keep the street config, which means ABS at full bore and shifting points not optimized for the dirt. Fine if you are screwing around, not what you want for serious driving.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Baja mode was by far my favorite mode. Most don’t like it because it’s for the aggressive driver. It comes alive when you really want to run fast and get in and off the brakes quick. Shit I barely used brakes in Baja mode. But Gen1 with its hydraulic steering and just overall far less electronics is way more enjoyable. The power curve is more consistent, no lag to get back on power. And braking only matter on a track. On real trails, when shit hits the fan, you just need yo cut speed and get back in the throttle to get the nose up. I’ve never been a track guy. Give me 100 miles of open trails and I’m happy. Put me on a short course and I’m bored.

[@dolivares81]

SDI products are just insane!

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

It’s what Live Valves should have been at launch

[@briankennedy7049]

Your videos are great. Can you provide the Camburg coil bucket part number for Gen1 to run live valve? I've completely change my focus away from aftermarket 3.0s and toward Gen1e-Click.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

It’s brand new and not yet on their website. Will check with my buddy and see when they are going to post it up.

[@svt5446]

Buckets are up on the site, Part # CAM-110216

[@brayton6683]

Great video man love your content since you're all about offroad can you please make a video giving us your first impressions on the all new 2023 Ford bronco DR- "desert racer "that has a coyote V8 engine 🏜 which got announced the other day which is basically a race truck you can buy off Ford

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Would love to man. But that’s one i need to see in person. The Bronco R is something else and was an extremely capable rig. The DR is something very different and need a closer look than just pics or spec sheet.

[@Gilgalad007]

Helio, do you happen to know what 3rd break light Cesar is running? It appeared that his right and left amber lights were flashing, which could be an artifact of LEDs and camera frame rate, but the flash pattern appeared to change, making me think that they really were flashing, which I've not seen before. Searching online, I come across several options similar to the GJ Motorsports 3rd break light kit, equipped with Baja Design S2s, but those would be solid on, not flashing, unless I'm missing a wiring harness option. Any suggestions by chance? My own suspension upgrades are coming along well enough that now I need to focus on amber lighting and a good radio, thus the inquiry. Respectfully.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

he's running the GJ setup, He's just added a flasher module and that requires a 2nd switchl. I don't recommend it for off-roading. Solid amber lights are the best. Flasher tend to cause some to get headaches and get really annoying when your chasing someone down with flashers.

[@gutz6681]

great detailed vid

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Thanks man

[@grgoss1]

Great vid, thanks all. In terms of baselining, No E-Click - live valves vs frs 3.0's on this test. What were you seeing?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Not sure I understand the scenario you asking about. We did do Live valve Vs FRS on the last video. What scenarios do you mean?

[@grgoss1]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad I'll check that out. Without the E clik, I was curious how live valve compares to FRS 3.0. Then overlay the addition to EClik to bring out the best in each. I

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Yeah, last video covered that man.

[@grgoss1]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad I looked before asking, but didn't see it. Do you recall the name of the vid?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

There are only 2 SDI Eclick videos on my channel. The first video that’s only a few weeks old has the comparisons your looking for

[@Ellacost831]

Is Ceaser running stock springs up front?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

He’s running Fox Race series Live Valve shocks with the adjustable collar. No stock shocks on his truck

[@ThunderJarvis]

I have the non live valve blue Fox 3.0 coilovers in my 2018 Raptor. What’s the best way to go with E-Clik? Do I need to upgrade to the live valve FRS?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Your in a tough spot honestly from a cost standpoint. We saw that stock live valves out performed the FRS live valves with Eclick. Mainly the rear FRS shocks have that very restrictive 1 way valve that slows them down big time. If you have the money, FRS live valves up front with stock live valves in the rear is the optimum setup. You can do all live valve FRS too if you wanted but that gets expensive. SDI was also making live valve retrofit kits too where they can take just about any shock and add a new remote reservoir with a live valve solenoid on it. That could work for the front FRS shocks. But not the rear because of their dual line setup.

[@ThunderJarvis]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad please help me clear something up here. Mine has the blue coilover 3.0 front and back. Those aren’t live valve right? When you said the stock live valve outperformed the FRS live valve with E-Clik I think you are referring to the 2019 and up shocks and not the blue ones I have. Do the stock 2019 rear shocks fit my 2018 truck without mods? Thank you 🙏

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

That’s correct. The 2019-2020 have the orange live valve shocks with the 2022+ have orange and black. The stock live valves from a 2019-2020 raptor will outperform the Fox FRS shocks. Specially if you get the SDI tune on the shocks. Blue shocks are just conventional shocks and cannot even be retrofitted for live valve.

[@ThunderJarvis]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thank you for the clarification. Have a great weekend. 👍😎

[@nickcadwell5402]

New camera? Vid quality phenomenal

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Lol. Had a pro share footage with us

[@bjmcdole6294]

How many miles are on the white Gen2? Thanks

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

I’ll have to check with him. But I thinks it’s well over 40k

[@bjmcdole6294]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Nice! Appreciate the response! I just passed 29k a couple days ago. I don’t anticipate any issues. Im always curious about others experiences. I’ll probably due a 30k “Urban Raptor” video

[@johnheath4305]

how does the Fox Live valve listen to the Raptor Modes and the SDI E-Clik at the same time?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

They don’t. SDI takes over control of the shocks

[@raulgallardo1659]

Hey Helio, do you have any suggestions on a replacement steering rack for the gen 1’s? Preferably a new one. I think mine is starting to go out and want to replace it

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Stock racks is really your best option. Cheap to replace. If you in SoCal, there are a few shops that can give you stronger options but they expensive

[@raulgallardo1659]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad was definitely thinking of going OEM but cant seem to find a new one. Whats your take on a remanufactured one?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

They can be just as good. And now a days we have limited choices

[@raulgallardo1659]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad true that. Thanks for your input

[@Antho-R22]

What box does Cesar have in the top of the RPG carrier? I’m using to splash cans at the moment but couldn’t find a box to fit properly up there. Any info would be awesome!

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

I’ll see if he can comment on what he used

[@Antho-R22]

Thanks! Also, cool to see these comparison videos. I’m not sure anyone can argue that more options to finely set your shocks is a bad thing.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Right. Specially when the system can do it all for you too and keep it simple

[@westcoastraptors4792]

Yeti Loadout go box

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Thanks Cesar

[@banderson8040]

For you guys who were actually driving the trucks Do you see a noticeable difference between the stock revalved live valve with eclick vs FRS live valve with eclick ?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

There is a difference. Below 50 mph, the stock LV with Eclick perform better offroad. The rear shocks are faster and the truck stays flatter. Over 50mph, the FRS LV with Eclick start performing better. Mainly because with the FRS shocks can have the front end be higher. The stock LV are limited by the stock springs at a much lower height. So you start hitting bottom quick at over 50 mph. We’ve also heard that the FRS LV rears have a check valve that slows down their performance and that’s why at slower speeds they are not as good in the rear.

[@banderson8040]

What if I update front and back with geisers and icons to give it some height ? Reason why I’m asking is, if the difference isn’t that crazy I rather save 4K and keep my stock shocks than getting a FRS

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

I don’t recommend Geisers with Live Valve. Specially if you also want a Cush ride on the street. The combination, even with Eclick, is too stiff and you loose speed of the shock offroad and a soft ride on pavement. Shock collars, or even Eibachs are the better option. For the rear, icons is a good choice as well, they are softer than Deavers and configurable in case you change your mind later

[@banderson8040]

Interesting ! That’s good to know I already have eibachs I was just thinking about adding a little bit more height with the geisers. Adding the 1.5 perch collars with the eibachs sounds like a bad idea ?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

No, that’s a really bad idea. 1.5 is the limit of what the stock axles can take. Anymore and your boots are going to fail early. When I had Geisers on my Gen2, I had both axles boots fail within a week of each other after only 15k miles of running Geisers. Your talking about what is already a 1.5 raise that’s is a little stiff and making them stiffer and doubling the height. Your truck will ride awful, wont articulate right, and you axles will fail quick.

[@ChromesConsoles]

Aweasome Video! I can just imagine if we could have the same suspension as you on our Gen1! it would be Sickkkkk, also including the LIME GREEEEEEEEEEN 👌👌👌👌

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

A live valved mid travel setup would be interesting

[@neilcastelli7505]

I never use Baja Mode. Sport Mode / 2H / Trac control off / Manual shift all day baby

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Try that on a truck with Live Valve and it’s a nasty rough ride. On my 17, 2wd sport was by far my favorite mode. On the LV truck Baja all the way, perfect for aggressive driving

[@bjmcdole6294]

I didn't know Baja mode decreased the airbags by 50%

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

same here. but it checks out.

[@FxULLePIXZ]

Whats wrong with ko2s?

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

EVERYTHING!! Grip sucks on dirt and gets worse as they get older. They wear way too quick and most stock tires barely make it to 20k with any off-roading. And as they age their grip on the wet gets down right dangerous

[@T4nkcommander]

They are pretty much the worst in every category as compared to their competitors. If you offroad, expect to get a max life of 20k miles before they are toast. Their traction in all environments is pretty sad.

[@FxULLePIXZ]

@@T4nkcommander ive litteraly never heard of any of that

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

What do you drive? How often do you offroad and where? If all you do is street driving, you will get decent mileage from the tire. Grip will still suffer in the wet, but sports toy KO2s do well in snow. We don’t get much snow here but when we do get rain, I had no grip. I’ve gone they 2 sets of KO2s. First set was bald at 24k miles and chucked real bad on the way there. 2nd set barely got 14k miles and dealer warranty replaced them. There are a lot of guys will say it’s a great tire but maybe see trails once or twice a year. For the rest of us that go out every other week, we know better and have direct experience as well as seen all of our buddies have the same problems

[@FxULLePIXZ]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad interesting i drive a 2014 silverado i go out at least once a month so i should be good.

[@kylegoldston]

Keep your thumbs out of the wheel if you like using them!

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

The Gen2 with their electronic steering don’t have problems with torque steer like hydraulic racks do so. That being said you can have the death Shake which is far worse than torque steer

[@kylegoldston]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad The steering shaft will transmit plenty of torque to destroy your thumbs regardless of dampers or assistance, In an accident if the front wheels are impacted. * The Above warning doesn't consider full hydraulics*

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

The eletronic rack completely mutes majority of it. I know from personal experience running the trails over rough terrain. Eletronic steer is is almost numb sometimes when it works right. When it doesn’t though, it’s worse that a hydraulic rack. Essentially the rack as an eletronic motor that mimics what the front wheels are doing but heavily dampened. But when it glitches, you get the full power of the motors into your hands.

[@kylegoldston]

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad There is a shaft running through the motor, the motor is stronger than you. The motor can provide some resistance but once overcome your thumbs are responsible for the balance of the forces beyond motor stall TQ or Hyd. Relief valve PSI. All the energy between max PS effort and broken parts goes through your thumbs...just saying.

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

Yeah, but that steering side acts more like a clutch rather than a direct connection. 90% of the force is numbed out. Software is used to introduce some feedback back in to make it feel more natural. And that’s what’s probably fooling you. That all being said, I keep my thumbs up and don’t wrap them around. Mainly because of the torque steer on my Gen1. But on the Gen2 over rough terrain and even in an accident my thumbs were fine. Only time I had problem was when the steering glitches out and I got full eletronic motor on my hands. And at that point the steering wheel is shacking so bad that your thumb position don’t matter and it’s going to catch your hand period.

[@svt5446]

You guys need to stop putting out these vids...my pants can only get so tight 🤣

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

🤣🤣🤣🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@dnohay]

FIRST!

[@KeepItDirtyOffRoad]

But did you actually watch the video?