Second Bespoke Shoe Fitting With Daniel Wegan From Gaziano & Girling | Kirby Allison

Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, had the chance to meet up with Daniel Wegan, of Gaziano & Girling, while both were in San Antonio for the Trunk Show. Daniel was able to go through the second fitting with Kirby for his first bespoke pair of black captoe Oxfords from Gaziano and Girling.
Gaziano & Girling is a unique shoe company. Founded in 2006 by Tony Gaziano & Dean Girling, it has become the most innovative and versatile shoemaker in England, combining handcrafting and manufacturing skills to put itself at the top of both the bespoke and benchmade industries.
Visit their website here: www.gazianogirling.com/
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[@declanbartlette3074]

Kirby: "It's tragic to see this happen." (11:08) I couldn't agree more.

[@kirbyallison]

Hahah. Yeah... worst part ever. But as Daniel says, "this is what apprentices are for." hahaha

[@kirbyallison]

Exciting video! Make sure you check out the first fitting from London!

[@dr.danger9559]

Hello sir, it would be a great help for me if u can make a vedio on types of synthetic leather and pure leather ....what can be purchased and what we shouldn't, if possible how to identify them....... thank's👔

[@brandonbentley8532]

Whenever I watch a Kirby Allison video I want to polish my shoes and go for a walk...

[@kirbyallison]

Haha. Please do! Bravo!!

[@ex-libtard2328]

I enjoy your shoe fitting videos. Very informative and interesting to watch.

[@kirbyallison]

Thanks Brock! They run kianda long... but I feel it's better to capture it all and let the viewer fast-forward to increase playback speed.

[@albriseno2428]

Great video Kirby! I am glad I had the opportunity to meet Daniel in San Antonio. That was a great trunk show and look forward to the next one.

[@kirbyallison]

Great! Thanks, Al!

[@ClearReason]

Great video! It's been exciting seeing the process of these shoes from the start. I look forward to the final shoe

[@kirbyallison]

We've drug out the fittings a bit... I should pick up the final "trial shoe" (which can be worn) when I am in London in two weeks. Then, it's onto the final.

[@e24mpwr]

Genuinely interesting - thanks!

[@kirbyallison]

Thanks, Lee!

[@mohamedmahfouz1404]

Perfection

[@henryginthang5551]

Looks exquisitely part of you. OMG it's pretty.!!!

[@peakbhookong7277]

I wish i could learn these bespoke shoes making skill. It look really fun and passionate.

[@ianmedium]

Wonderful Kirby though I have to avert my eyes as he does a Freddie Kruger on them! :)

[@azlansharom7011]

Kirby, do you think with the advent of 3D printing and laser scanning etc, that Last making might come under threat of ‘automation’? One would imagine you could get an ‘exact replica’ of a person’s foot with these modern techniques.

[@jleif7736]

every single single thing in this world is under threat of automation.

[@charliebowen5071]

It already is..., my cousin works in in the trade and they have moved from a last maker named Larry who was 89 when he retired and no apprentice.... 3D printer is their method and the shoes are not cheap

[@Steve-lt1op]

Exact replica doesn't necessarily translate to a proper fit.

[@KennyAIngram]

Really...yenno...interesting video.

[@sheilagibson982]

The toe cap seems a bit odd to me!

[@locutusdborg126]

Angular.

[@75acropole]

Definitely. Doesn’t look very good. It looks a bit artificial, fancy for the sake of it

[@karlailin]

Love to see the final product !! there is so much finishing. I missed the part where Daniel mentions, what he uses as filler instead of cork. Can someone please tell me what's that.

[@locutusdborg126]

Tarred felt.

[@ducknamedchuck]

What exactly does Daniel Vegan use as the material instead of cork? Was a bit hard to hear, was is tar felt? thx much!

[@RevJamesCostello]

I would like to know what other bespoke shoemakers think of Daniel’s methods. They appear to be extremely thorough to an almost scientific degree. I hope you will review the final product. It would be good to know if all the effort was worth it or if you prefer the more traditional, ‘intuitive’ methods employed by the likes of Dominic Casey and so on.

[@kirbyallison]

I can tell you that Daniel is very high-respected for his approach. But, you're right, every bespoke shoemaker has their own approach. Dominic Casey has been doing it for so long that he has a better intuition about it that seems to work out. But even on my first fitting, he's having to make some adjustments. It's almost my opinion that it's best to smoke the adjustments out on a trial pair of shoes because no bespoke shoemaker likes remaking an almost-finished pair. By the time the shoe has been constructed and welting has been completed, the only thing outstanding is finishing the bottoms and polishing the shoes. In the scope of what it takes to make a pair of shoes, this is the final 10-20% of the process. Rather late in the game to make adjustments...

[@krollic]

I felt lightheaded when he carved up those shoes. 😫

[@kirbyallison]

Yeah... the audio of it... yikes!

[@GrandMoffTarkinsTeaDispenser]

The hat looks great on you!

[@kirbyallison]

Thanks!

[@bartderuyck]

Thanks for the fantastic insight into the bespoke process, Kirby. Small question: in the intro your trouser length is very short. A conscious decision?

[@kirbyallison]

You know... I thought the same thing while watching the video and was a little embarrassed. Not usually, but I'm going to take a second look.

[@karldelavigne8134]

I noticed that too. I had a very old tailor (born in the 1890s) who insisted that trousers should not break above the shoes, but his aesthetic was a very 1920s one when ankle boots were more common. Kirby's trouser length in this video give him a very unflattering gait.

[@soulandwit5029]

Kirby, as always, an amazing video. Thank you for your wonderful content! I have a question about the instep padding Daniel mentions. Is this padding embedded in the tongue? Or is it attached to the tongue separately, like one would with, say, a Pedag tongue pad?

[@kirbyallison]

The instep is the tongue padding. The other area I speak about Daniel adding significant support is to the arch, which is the soft underside of the foot. He does this through the molding of the insole to the last and the hard counters of the shoe, which extend quite far beyond the norm on Daniel's work.

[@soulandwit5029]

@@kirbyallison Thank you so much for your thoughtful response, Kirby! This is very helpful! I look forward to your and The Hanger Project's continued success!

[@bmwman5]

How much did the bespoke shoe cost?

[@jaylauch6854]

Long time viewer, first comment. I own a few pairs of decent ready to wear - AE, Cole Haan, etc. I never knew that bespoke makers produce a fitting shoe from “scraps”. But even those, albeit just seeing them in a video on an iPad, look high quality. And then he cuts them up. ,y question is - for someone like me who isn’t discerning would these fitting shoes be wearable had he not cut them up?

[@sebastiankalsnes9090]

The answer in general is yes, it is a fully functional shoe. It would not last as long as the final bespoke shoe as it may be constructed using lesser leathers, but it will still be fully wearable.

[@Judahmangi]

How much does a pair of shoes like this cost?

[@nowornever2504]

Hi Kirby - what’s the best bespoke shoe maker for you thus far in terms of fit and quality?

[@locutusdborg126]

Kirby has relationships with many shoe brands so he will not answer that question.

[@AmatriceBand]

he didn't like the square angles toe. me too. wish i could see the end result

[@MarketingMagic1]

Can someone help, I can't see the rest of this process anywhere, it seems to stop after the second fitting. Is there a third fitting and maybe a final shoe video, please?

[@kirbyallison]

Unfortunately the shoes were abandoned when Daniel left

[@MarketingMagic1]

@@kirbyallison Ah. I see. Thanks for replying, I was driving myself mad searching for the video. Love the videos, keep up the good work!

[@furdiebant]

Very unique toe shape

[@kirbyallison]

The toe shape will evolve past the fitting shoe. Because the toe shape is purely aesthetic, it doesn't affect fit and can always be rasped down.

[@DrAdd1999]

Would you say these or George Cleverley

[@camshaft4456]

Sorry bu what is with that suit you are wearing? The jacket is a size too small and the trousers at least 5cm too short. Very strange, that’s no add for bespoke work!

[@Honesty001]

Beautiful show need little more workout on Direction

[@davidmaly6606]

6:16

[@matlindell5022]

It seems that these shoes are by far too big for your feet.it would be really interesting to review the final model with your others bespoke shoes.How do you explain that for example dimitri only needs 5 measurements to build a comfortable bespoke shoe?

[@kirbyallison]

Well, Mat, Dimitri also had to completely remake my first pair. And most all bespoke makers never "nail" the first pair. It took two or three pairs of my Cleverley's until I'd say that the last really stabilized. Daniel puts the work on the front-end to minimize any adjustments to the final shoe, which is very expensive. And that said, he can do it on less fittings if the client requires it.

[@matlindell5022]

Do you mean you are not totally satisfied with your Gomez?regarding the RTW what is the hierarchy between Cleverley,Gaziano Vass?

[@ShepProudfoot]

First

[@dimitrip7362]

Damn

[@kirbyallison]

@@dimitrip7362 Hahaha.

[@dimitrip7362]

@@kirbyallison love your work. Keep it up!

[@brandonbentley8532]

When he started cutting...oof...cringe! I know the shoe was a work in process but...

[@kirbyallison]

hahaha. Yes... totally agree.

[@dianeaustin2414]

Why were your pants so short?

[@austind3459]

someone has big feet :)

[@1061shrink1061]

I cant get past the intro! As you walk into the exterior door, your trousers look about 2" short by anyones measure. Showing a little sock on a slim trouser cut near the shoe is one thing, but these are not slim, they are regular width hemmed trousers, and I can see half your leg! What gives?

[@S_F_R_]

Style is personal. I wouldn't go that high with my trousers but ...

[@1061shrink1061]

Just odd for someone that supports classic mens style and follows pretty much all the conventional norms for how clothes should fit. These trousers frankly look ill fitting.

[@kirbyallison]

Well, in this case, I agree. I'm going to take another look at the trouser inseam. Maybe I was wearing them higher than normal.

[@1061shrink1061]

Kirby Allison not my usual Approach to KZbin, I tend not to be critical. It was more of a surprise than anything else, I’ve come to expect such detail from you!

[@gabrieleamornim960]

Luv ur feet

[@manamez]

You don't have a small foot, but the shoe looks stubby.

[@jojjeja9371]

A f.... shoe? Pkease guys?