Sector Dials Are Back And This One Is A $115 STUNNER!

[@ilikewatches]

I have added an explanation of why I don't mention other brands in my content in my video description.

[@eurovnik]

The movement is based on the "Chinese standard" or Tongji movement. I think the fourth jewel on the wheel train bridge may be to do with the subsecond hand because the Chinese standard usually has sweep seconds. The striping on the bridges is additional decoration that you wouldn't usually find. The "Chinese standard" has a mixed reputation - a workhorse, not especially accurate and there can be qc issues. However the Merkur watches that I've had have been very well regulated (chronographs not three handers though) so they may do their own qc on the movements. Merkur do some unusual watches even if a bit homage-y. I have their pulsometer chronograph. Sure, it bears more than a passing resemblance to the Longines heritage monopusher pulsometer just with stick hands, but I could never wear that Longines because it's so big whereas the Merkur is based on the 1963's 38mm case so it fits really nicely.

[@ryanscott4488]

Yep, $20 Chinese standard movement, maybe $30 with the the finishing. And yes usually on watches of this design the fourth wheel has an extended pivot on which the sub seconds hand is placed. Biggest downside on these movements is somewhat low amplitude and inconsistent quality control (bits of fluff in the movement, inconsistent oiling, etc). Can’t personally speak towards their longevity, as the only watch I have with a variation of the Chinese standard movement is a $20 skeletonized pocket watch.

[@borbetomagus]

It might be Merkur's in-house Fanzhi M01D or M01X movement. Chinese Watch Wiki has a 'Chinese mechanical watch grades' page noting 75 (!) brands making a 'Chinese Standard Movement' in four grades: Baihua, Baolong, Baoshihua, Beifang, Beijixing, Boyang, Butterfly, Chuncheng, Chunhua, Chunlan, Chunlei, Chunyan, Dalian, DongFeng, Duoling, Guangzhou, Guihua, Honglian, Hongxing, Huanghe, Huaxi, Huguang, Jinji, Jinmao, Kongque, Kuihua, Kunlun, Lanhua(Tianjin), Linghua, Lingyang, Longfeng, Lushan, Meigui, Meihua, Meimei, Mengya, Milan, Mingzhu, Mudan, Qingyun, Qionghua, Sanhua, SanHuan, Sanyu, Sea-Gull, Shancheng, Shanghai, Shanhua, Shenhua(Changchun), Shizhu, Shuangling, Shuangxi, Shuangyu, Suzhou, Taihang, Taishan, Tianjin, Treasure, Wuhan, Xihu, Xinghuo, Xiongmao, Yanan, Yangcheng, Yanshan, Yinbei, Yingchun(Tianjin), Yinhua, Yulan, Yunque, Zhaozhouqiao, Zhenzhu, Zhongshan, Zhufeng, Zuanshi.

[@GDLOTKIDOG]

Your comment is full of beautiful knowledge! Thank You

[@lefroy1]

This channel is a menace! 😆Every time I click, I feel the longing for another watch and this is no exception. Love it!

[@AlexanderB.]

I do like some art deco design and I growing more and more fond of this coppery salmon colour and I love blued hands, whether they are genuinely thermally blued or painted. But apart from the mineral crystal the minute hand being much to small is my biggest gripe. And they should have but a simple dash in the place of the mutilated 6.

[@karlsenula9495]

I'm with you on the use of 'chopped' numerals ... always irks me and turns me off any watch when they do that ... the non-chopped numerals is to me one of the best reasons to get a Baltany Dirty Dozen over other brands.

[@shanephillips8735]

Love it. Not sure why Merkur seem to put a short hand on the small seconds. It was enough to put me off their D12, but don't think it would be a deal breaker on this one as everything else is so stunning.

[@jeremiahjohnson8343]

Merkur have updated this watch with longer hands that started shipping at the end of November. I think they still missed the mark (literally), but it looks better than the shorter ones.

[@jamessaund]

Hi Gary and All, the movement I would imagine is the same handwound they have been putting in their other 38mm vintage style watches with the crosshair dials and such. They refer to it as an in-house movement called the Fanzhi M01D

[@jamesm1061]

Aaaaand just purchased, Cheers! (11/11 sale gang it’s $90) Oh, and it’s an homage to the Balkin X Worn & Wound collaboration from 2020. 100 pieces limited make.

[@a.z.c.681]

Not Balkin but Baltic.

[@dunderhay9169]

I have this movement in a military homage by Seizenn, it was very similar to yours on the timegrapher and after a couple of months I still love it 👍

[@simontore6759]

Ever since I’ve seen Merkur coming out with this I was waiting on this review. Finally it’s here absolute stunner. Man the sector dial in salmon and hand winding dress watch seems perfect to me. Also the hands a awesome

[@ilikewatches]

It is a good one for sure!

[@glennevans6213]

Had to just go and watch the video on the big screen rather than my phone to check if it really looked that good and it did. I'll certainly be looking to add one to my collection as I have always wanted a salmon dial. Thanks for another great video.

[@ilikewatches]

My pleasure! Thanks for watching!

[@gefthetalkingmongoose]

I can find several very similar 'sector dial' watches including by Longines but the handset, which looks great, is very Jaeger-LeCoultre.

[@syniekos]

I had my eye on this watch for sometime, thanks for reviewing it Gary. I will probably end up buying it now.

[@nitina8564]

Beautiful looking watch there. This channel has introduced me to a lot of watches i wouldn't have discovered on my own.

[@davelowey3074]

Hi Gary, i believe the movement is a Chinese unified movement, modified to have a sub seconds dial, they're ok, looks better with decorated bridges too. They do make that movement automatic also, it's in alot of basic fake watches costing around $20 but the finishing and workmanship in this watch is day and night.

[@ilikewatches]

Good knowledge! Thank you

[@Itsmemulder]

I was really looking forward to getting this one, first saw it as a concept from Merkur, as I really want a salmon dial dressy watch ! But that 12.6 thickness and the unknown movement that can break any day is too much. Looking forward to you reviewing the San Martin chronograph (I see it on your shelf), they have a salmon dial version which maybe the one for me.

[@EscapeWheel]

shameless plug, I've got that San martin Chrono in Salmon coming to my channel very soon :) as for the thickness, it wears really well for 12.6mm thick...id say at least 2.5mm of that is crystal. I've also got this same watch coming up for review as well. it's a nice one for sure.

[@Itsmemulder]

@@EscapeWheel looking forward to those reviews 🙏🏼 !!

[@iiBourneHD]

Nice review! The crown is the Merkur logo. What kind of puts me off is the random name "Pierre Paulin". They should have kept the Merkur branding in my opinion.

[@itsZdan]

its not random, he does explain it

[@iiBourneHD]

@@itsZdan I mean yeah, it is a name of a French industrial designer. But still it seems a little odd that a Chinese watch brand uses his name as their sub brand. Given it is better than the usual Chinese watch brand name haha!

[@itsZdan]

@@iiBourneHD its an Art Deco designer so i feel its appropriate name for an Art Deco inspired brand

[@iiBourneHD]

@@itsZdan I guess it makes more sense now. Thanks for the clarification.

[@WatchesOnWood]

I'm in the UK so all i think of when i hear merkur is Mecure Hotels! 😂

[@christianaviles2199]

Definitely would be better with a nice domed or top hat sapphire. The hands are a little short too. But the dial definitely steals the show. And great value.

[@yourneighborkevin]

Salmon dial! I love salmon dials. With the spare hands and the small seconds, this is one of my favorite looks. Glad salmon dials are not more common. The color doesn’t work in everything, but here it’s perfect.

[@tomergel]

Good review again Gary ! Have it in my Ali basket for a long time, love this dial, make me think of the Lorier Safari, which i love too...

[@major7551]

Merkur make good watch but jesus, the customer service is so bad. If you have a problem with a watch, expect to lose your money and get no help. Got sent a broken watch by them and they were ignoring me and not helping at all.

[@anonimushbosh]

Use PayPal. They’ll make sure you get a full refund and even cover your return costs - for up to 180 days.

[@major7551]

@@anonimushbosh I did. That's how I resolved my issue but it was a real hassle that Merkur sent a broken watch and wouldn't help. Just warning others of the experience I had

[@waris3732]

@@major7551 did you raise a dispute on AliExpress? What happened? I'd like to know

[@BosworthMcG]

Yeah, any follow up on your dispute?

[@major7551]

@@waris3732 I contacted them immediately, after 2 weeks of back and forth of them asking of videos and pictures/ignoring me and not responding to my emails. I waited a month then I sent them 3 more emails that if they did not respond then I will raise a dispute on paypal and intiated a return but the return packaging to china cost over $50 for me so in the end I just took the hit and got the watch repaired myself for $40 Lesson learned. Research customer service before buying but the watch was good after repairing.

[@cosmodoc]

I own this watch and it’s just beautiful! Even more so on a black leather strap! Thank you for showing the movement!

[@grahamsmith1382]

Great looking watch, love the dial. I have a 50’s Elco with a very similar dial (mine does not work)

[@richarddsmarais3865]

Movement looks like a SeaGull 1701, fairly basic movement but generally reliable. Most Parnis watches with small second dial use that movement.Cheers

[@borbetomagus]

The Sea-Gull 1701 appears to be an automatic movement, while this is manually wound. It looks like a high grade version of a 'Chinese Standard Movement' (Tongji) - numerous Chinese companies have (still?) made them - but Merkur's website says it's an 'In House Movement Made By Merkur'. (Fanzhi?) The Seizenn Pilot Watch (aka the 'Merkur-12 King Kong') uses a Fanzhi M01D movement, which could very well be re-purposed for the Pierre Paulin Levee watch.

[@Jason-hv4eu]

That is a nice looking watch! Unfortunately, I would not purchase it. The handset is too short.

[@zolohakaWatch]

Love the build quality of this watch😍

[@waynesellers4078]

I can't make up my mind if I like this more or the baltany bubble back with the linen dial

[@obscuredbysilence3237]

I wanted this one in white but I am scared to buy from Merkur again. I had a similar issue with really bad customer service from Merkur. My watch(different design, also salmon dial) had a hair wrapped around where the hands are connected plus the crown didn’t have the logo as in pictures on their website at the time. Emailing them for months and you get really bad English replies..they will reply every 3rd email maybe, and ignore you through all the other channels listed on their website, and avoid a straight answer, ignore most of the issues you mentioned. In the end, I just wouldn’t trust them to send it back. They offered $10 to fix the watch but it costs €10 just to change the battery in Ireland. So yea, watches look nice, really nice, but if you get a bad one, forget about it. Oh yea, there is another guy that ordered through AliEx and they sent him 2 faulty watches with hanging hands before the 3rd one worked. Dial design slightly changes with each new batch they make. Oh yea, they also tried to deny the hair inside the watch saying there is no way it would pass their quality control. I have noticed as soon as I looked at the watch. So yeah, good luck everyone :)

[@scatterbrain9490]

Thanks

[@Mr1121628]

is it just me, or does that caseback O-ring seem way too far inside the case? In theory, that means the area outside of the O-ring isnt necessarily that waterproof, meaning water could get in, and go around the movement to the dial or through the crown stem area and still get into the movement? Maybe its missing a second outer O-ring? Ive definitely never seen a caseback O-ring that far away from the edge of the caseback! Great video either way! And the dial looks awesome!

[@Miginath]

I think your video caused the Ali Express sold Salmon sector dial to sell out.

[@TheFranticgamer]

Looks decent. I don’t like the strap color/dial combination. Wonder if it was on a darker strap it may look better.

[@indraperdana1259]

My ailang, aesop and sea-gull seems to be working just fine.

[@rava2107]

According to Merkur the movement is a self developed movement and I think it bears a similarity to the 6497 movement from eta.

[@erikvermeulen9295]

That is a good looking watch and it seems to be well made. Fantastic color combination on that strap.

[@gillyharwoodl70]

I bought this watch a few months ago as I wanted a salmon dial in my collection . It’s a great looking watch and the movement gives less than 5 seconds a day 👍🏽. K1 mineral glass is not ideal would prefer sapphire however the dome shape crystal and dial blew me away. The strap is the let down here.. changed it to a vintage dark grey leather strap which looks amazing .

[@RobinhoodarrowsRHA]

For the price this knocks it out of the park! With a few tweeks it "could" be a real champ... Movement, as you mention, raises the first question marks. Sapphire would be nice too but hey ho. My biggest bug bear is with the hands. Theyre just not long enough. Surely a hand should meet its respective marker track? The hour hand is almost there but the minute hand is woefully short. While on the subject of hands imo the tip of the seconds hand should be pointed not blunt. We are talking the smallest increment of time after all. Other than that the case inc drilled lugs and the overall quality is amazing for a timepiece at this pricepoint. atb, Kev

[@ilikewatches]

Good feedback! thanks....appreciate your ongoing support!

[@trooperbill]

pp is made by merkeur, so its a merkeur crown

[@clintwareham179]

Not my thing Gary but anyone should be more than pleased to receive this as a gift. The dial is a looker. The movement is a bit of a leap of faith but altogether it's nice watch. Good job fella👍

[@Reclaimtherainbow_Gen9]

Nice looking watch for sure! Definitely skeptical with the movement though. & Like you said people will pay the premium for sapphire. At that point they might as well use Acrylic and include some Polywatch with the packaging lol.

[@samuellinchen5793]

Brilliant review 💯. Keep up the good work.

[@charlesdavis405]

The crown looks like a Swiss made Sector logo.

[@kobusvanrensburg4092]

Its pretty, for sure. BUT For every Steeldive, there's a Mysterious Code. For every San Martin, there a Gqxysto. Let's face it, these guys make decent watches for the price, but my goodness - the names they come up with.

[@Mabbs079]

Really nice watch. I love the mont blanc mono pusher salmon dial. I'd also, as a second option take the Baltic bi compax worn n wound salmon dial. Probably not going to pay the price for either of those, so this could scratch an itch.

[@TomasWatchReviews]

looks incredible. Would not pay that much for mineral crystal watch though..

[@ilikewatches]

Yeah, that is a real shame....it sticks out so much too

[@WatchesOnWood]

hi Gary, I seem to have problem commenting. for the movement try sza sza1 or zsh

[@WatchesOnWood]

it's a "shanghai" movement. other references are: 17 or 19 zuan zsh / zse /ss7

[@ilikewatches]

Awesome! thanks for this

[@WatchesOnWood]

@@ilikewatches no worries. I finally got there with posting my comment. you tube kept removing it so I must have been using some wording that was triggering their algorithm! Also, side note, I bought a Seiko Superior off Andy, who "looked after me" when i mentioned your name - thank you!

[@sanderbrugman8157]

It looks like the AS1130 or the Unitas 6325, the movement is used since ww2

[@silvankamm05]

What is the original watch that Merkur did an hommage on? I could not find it, is it a Grönefeld 1941? Thanks

[@zimtage1744]

I have to buy this. I have a very similar UMF Ruhla. Is that what this is going for?

[@brianmsahin]

A very nice looking watch Gary. Looks FAR more expensive than it is for sure. Interesting that they can use a real brand name as long as the brand owners don't make watches. Now, I'm just waiting for the release of my Kentucky Fried Chicken watch to wear on Saturday night while watching the telly! 🐔🍗😜

[@ilikewatches]

It's just a name at the end of the day and as long as it's not already registered anyone can use it...They aren't referencing the actual french designer so no issues there either.

[@brianmsahin]

@@ilikewatches Yes, very true, still imagine a KFC watch., what do you think? 😂

[@karlsenula9495]

@@brianmsahin... sounds finger likin' good? (Or is that trademarked?)

[@brianmsahin]

@@karlsenula9495 Lol. Maybe..

[@Mrcxlixo]

I'm not very keen into salmon dials, it's just a question of preference but it doesn´t make me stop and find out more. Nevertheless I always get a bit worried when I see a double domed mineral crystal... sorry but it's not my cup of tea. Anyway, nice review. It's always interesting knowing this brands exist.

[@Cellodan]

It’s beautiful. I bought it, but sold it fairly quickly due to the short hands. Just didn’t look right to me…

[@trafalgarlaw7109]

When I saw the thumbnail I thought that this could be a great alternative to the merkur salmon dial. But after I realized that this watch is made by merkur as well I don't really know what I should think about this watch. Movements are very important for me and I don't want to buy a watch that has a movement with a unreliable reputation..

[@jonasnaeyaert3738]

Should really have sapphire.

[@Trex100]

Looks sweet.

[@handsomewong2469]

Modern yet classic !

[@blackpig52]

That dial is superb,love it,but would be so much better in a high polished case

[@jonathanmabry4587]

Absolutely beautiful dial! There is nothing quite like a nice dress watch. Unfortunately my life doesn't permit many occasions for them. I'm more a utilitarian watch guy. I seem to gravitate towards divers.

[@AwkwardHorology]

This watch is a beauty! I found that the name definitely suits the design 🙂

[@charlestillery6327]

Very nice, good timepiece.

[@kshithijsrinath]

Love your content😊 Please try and check out this brand called knot, they are a Japanese brand. They have just released a limited edition chronograph that has a platinum dial, a case that is made by the same manufacturer that makes cases for grand seiko and also has a seiko 8R chronograph movement. It is one of the best value and best finished watch I have seen for under 1500$.

[@jaquino6786]

Case looks exactly like the Baltic HMS002

[@mrclicky5320]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control sector 'homage'. What do I win??? 😛

[@alexprendido2023]

Beautiful watch

[@originalboondi]

Looks like a 6498 movement?

[@TinBin-Craig]

nice watch that dial is brill cheers

[@thewatchmission7693]

Wow that looks pretty good

[@stavros_katsopr]

I think i miss something like a zero at the end, then add an extra "k", then you reach the price of the original. Not bad at all to get it at this price, right? 😉 Cheers Gary!

[@wojtekmajdanski1488]

Any one knows from which watch they take inspiration?

[@ilikewatches]

Patek

[@briangeorge7965]

Nice looking watch. Cheers G

[@fayasmuhammedali]

Great looking piece!💯💯

[@coldude2559]

I like it and the name isn't that bad either 👍

[@jerryglasses2229]

Love sectors. Cant afford that new Omega.

[@grahamphillips3099]

That little bit of 6 underneath the seconds dial is a deal breaker for me

[@davidcooper8621]

This appears to be the Merkur dirty dozen watch with a very attractive dial. Same size, finishing and drilled lugs. This isn't a criticism as I like my Merkur apart from short second hand which unfortunately this watch also has

[@multipl3]

Absolutely stunning!

[@3rdstone1]

I only have two very subjective opinions against this watch: The dial colour isn't my thing personally, I'd prefer a silver version as an option here. But that's just a matter of personal taste. But the branding.. Pierre Paulin is a ridiculous name on a watch IMHO, esp. a Chinese watch. I mean, why not use their brand name Merkur instead which is a quite decent branding (way better than lots of Chinese watch names)? Skip the PP silliness and brand all the models Merkur. Otherwise this seems like quite a nice watch for the money. The quality of the movement is of course an open question as well. Great review as usual, Gary.

[@BosworthMcG]

This also comes in a silver dial color way

[@3rdstone1]

@@BosworthMcG Ah, ok. I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the info.

[@sagen888]

Good Morninng! or... uh, I mean Good Night!

[@ilikewatches]

MORNING! :)

[@Shpeil]

Is that second hand stuttering at 4:10? Nice dial for sure, and nice price... but I can't live with the truncated "6"! Petty, I know...

[@nintendokings]

The case and dial are superb. But after tax this is not what I’d call a bargain given it’s Chinese, mineral, and cheap movement

[@johndudley5761]

Very nice Spector watch , excellent review considering you are American , strange accent though !

[@rosomak8244]

The movement is the so called "Chinese standard movement" otherwise known as Tongji. Looks like a higher grade manufacturing one. The lowest grade of those can be found in the cheapest possible mechanical watches.

[@grahambawden4060]

Unknown non hacking movement, mineral crystal with no AR, but a wonderful dial and overall look and well priced. Your review was excellent but leaves us with a bit of a conundrum, do the failings overide the positives. Not sure this way. 👎👍⌚🙄

[@jeanlefranc3817]

Nice watch. Sure, the movement is very basic, but coming in at less than $150 with more than okay finishing, it makes one wonder why one should pay North of €800 for a salmon dial Tissot Heritage 1938. The only downside is the faux French branding, with the very daft « Levée » inscription which makes no sense at all on the dial of a watch. In an ideal world, there would be no branding at all, a fully sterile dial, with only the Merkur logo on the crown.

[@jupa7166]

Sector dials are easier to make, just throw a hand on a right wheel and it is done.

[@joshn.5625]

Minute hand is way too short

[@sonyleo]

The "problem" with Chinese brands in cases like this watch is that they give little information about the movement they use, so doubts arise and that's why you don't buy it.

[@snakeplissken5480]

that looks like an aprilia lion head logo on the back , how odd

[@normandbissonnette8865]

I like the colour of the dial, but this is not for me.

[@Sam------]

vintage IWC homage? not 100% sure

[@pdmotors5027]

I am sure it’s a reasonable quality item, but the design is just not lighting my fire, to each their own.

[@brinx8634]

It's OK, but unlike you, I'm not smitten .

[@zillsburyy1]

yes govna. not bad for the money

[@chrisb9360]

Weird name/brand choice given there's already a Paulin watch company.

[@racamon]

Alas, the hands are too short and the name is putting me off. Watch looks good, why does it need to steal names of French designers or what not. The name will not sell it, the design will. Chinese just cannot understand that.

[@anonimushbosh]

I object to your refusing to identify the original design. If it’s an homage in the usual sense (basically a copy) then clearly the OG deserves to be credited and if it’s an homage in the dictionary sense (takes inspiration from & pays respect to) why imply it’s a full-on rip-off by calling it an homage? More to the point though the curious viewer deserves to be told. I found a few vintage watches including ones by Omega, IWC & JLC that resemble this but all had significant differences.

[@ilikewatches]

I'll give you the benefit of the doubt because I'm assuming you don't know the history of me mentioning the other original brands and how it has led to me losing my first channel which had 11k subscribers and took me 9 months to build up and that the culprit attempted recently to persuade KZbin to remove this channel for the same reason. This has been well covered in other videos.

[@ilikewatches]

I've now added an explanation in my video description to help people understand my motives.

[@anonimushbosh]

@@ilikewatches No, but I did hear you mention a previous channel that was 'unceremoniously' deleted and wondered what you meant. I'll put it down to over-zealous youtube politics then.

[@anonimushbosh]

@@ilikewatches Just read it... I get it now. Sounds like a bit of a nightmare.

[@ilikewatches]

Unbelievable nightmare….I have to now tread very very carefully…I hope you understand

[@ashneel]

the fuck is Pierre Paulin lol

[@Hbiiii]

Completely longines sector design

[@M_MTsc]

That’s a Russian movement

[@minnkonamike6658]

Beautiful dial indeed