Setting Up Models For Resin 3D Printing

[@JohnScottFore]

Just bought a resin printer and I'm a total NOOB! This video will be invaluable. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge. I'm looking forward to more.

[@justjarryd]

Glad this could help! :D I have more vids coming up in the next 2 weeks, including a "After process print cleaning" (Haven't posted in a while thanks to 2020)

[@jasonterry9343]

Perfect video, really. Would love to see a timelapse of the print/results of this setup man. Amazing.

[@justjarryd]

Thank you so much! Busy creating new content and an updated version of this video. Stay tuned. 😁

[@Benjamin-jb2nh]

Getting my printer tomorrow and this is the first video where it gets strait to the point and provide the info I needed!

[@Vonaan]

15:05 - The keep plug option is there to re-insert the plugs in the holes after cleaning and curing. This will restore texture if you can't create holes out of vision.

[@adrianhawley4909]

I have just learned sooo much. Thank you

[@Remmnever]

Great video! Maybe in a future video you can show your process of removing supports to mitigate scarring or damage. I’m new to resin printing and that would help a lot

[@justjarryd]

Great suggestion! Will be adding this to the list for sure! Can combine that with cleaning, different cure times, UV vs sunlight and tips and tricks in the post processing.

[@pimkokx9405]

Hey love the video and explanation. But would really also love to see the end results after printing. Keep up the great work 👍🏻

[@SilverFoxUnderscore]

That animation is incredibly well done and perfectly explains how the technology works

[@justjarryd]

Thank you so much! I am glad you like it. :D Currently working on a revised version. New content on the way.

[@redmax11]

this is some high quality tutorial ! thank you so much for the efforts

[@freakface1234]

I just got an elegoo mars this week and I'm nervous as all hell! This pretty much hit some of the points I was looking for. I want to create figures that you can snap into place, or even customizable, interchangeable parts for mech type figures. This video helped me gain some confidence and hopefully I can get through the beginners jitters!

[@justjarryd]

Really happy this video could help you! 😄 I have been recording new videos and will be back to regular posting soon. I will be doing a revised version of this video but be sure to check out my other video "RESIN 3D PRINTING THE CLEANUP!" which will help out a lot. Good luck! Give me a shout if you get stuck. Stay tuned for more videos coming soon!

[@TracksWithDax]

Thanks Jarryd. I just got a Photon S and it's pretty difficult... I haven't had a successful print yet (on my 5th attempt I think), but I'm not giving up, and this info will be key to my success!

[@justjarryd]

Glad I could help! Busy creating an updated version of this video. Will be ready in a couple weeks. Stay tuned!

[@jurgenvantomme]

Very interesting video! I don't have a 3D printer yet but this shows me how to make a good 3D print in the future.

[@justjarryd]

Glad this can help for future! 😃 More videos coming out about resin printing next week.

[@RyanKhoo]

Fantastic video man! the production quality on that DLP animation was great!

[@justjarryd]

Glad you enjoyed it! This video took a little longer but the extra effort was worth it!

[@jamesfulton3558]

Thanks mate. I’ve got my Phrozen mini on its way and I haven’t got a clue where to start. This really helped

[@justjarryd]

Glad this helped. :)

[@MightyHeidi]

Great video!! Thank you

[@eumesmo7524]

Very good explanation . Thank you for the video .

[@lovingfool2060]

I'm going to be new to 3D printing and this video is a great help. I'm stillhaving a hard time understanding what I'm looking for during the splicing process.

[@justjarryd]

Glad this video can help you out! I have a video just about slicing coming out end of this week. Stay tuned! 😄

[@dustinlewis8018]

just started printing with a phrozen sonic mini 4k Thank you for this I feel is a critical lesson thank you :D

[@mistletoekiss4327]

I am in the process of prepping for a big skeletal print on my photon so this helps a lot! Would love to see more of these!

[@justjarryd]

Glad this could help 😁 busy with a new intro and a bunch more vids coming starting next week. Will be doing a revised version of this video.

[@titaniumapple1]

Great video - a video on mitigating warping during and after curing would be VERY helpful. Thin, flat parts for engineering are basically impossible to keep flat, even with excessive well-placed supports!

[@justjarryd]

Sounds good! This can make for a great video! Will need to get some industrial resin to help with the explaining (different resins have different shrinkages so those that shrink less will be better with engineering). Definitely adding this to the list! Thank you.

[@titaniumapple1]

@@justjarryd Great, looking forward to it!

[@vasili1207]

Easy fix don't model flat pieces use styrene sheet just print the details. Then glue to styrene

[@christopherpowell8193]

Awesome tutorial Jarryd.

[@marcosney4116]

Nice and clear video. thank you very much

[@justjarryd]

Glad I could help. Will be doing another revised video soon.

[@bobmeiners448]

Thanks. Haven’t done my first print yet. This helps alot

[@cwtjones]

Thanks for sharing. Very informative and easy to understand.

[@justjarryd]

Glad this could help! Been busy creating a revised version (should be up soon but life is crazy)

[@staceycandace2067]

Great video, really informative 👏

[@justjarryd]

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it! :)

[@protothis]

Really nice video, must say I really enjoy you're presentation style and voice (nice and relaxed :)). As for the most important part (the content). Was exactly what I was looking for, would have liked to see a bit more details about hole placement (I noticed you placed the holes at the part of the model facing towards the buildplate, any reason in particular for this?). Keep up the good videos. As for video's I would like to see might be nice to do a printer calibration video (how to find settings that work for your printer).

[@wicek3d]

I recommend Lychee slicer :) Amazing software and is excellent with finding unsopported islands automatically.

[@justjarryd]

Definitely a good recommendation. This video was meant to be a general idea of setting up models. Busy working on a video for just slicing and will be including Lychee. :)

[@W.Keeling]

great video you have a new sub, like others have said, would be nice to see the work flow to the end with the printed model

[@cameronyoung2004]

I like. Thanks. You have a good audio voice.

[@justjarryd]

Thank you! 🙏😁

[@CptGingerbeardKayakFishing]

Sick duuude! Yeeew sick video! 🤘

[@justjarryd]

Appreciate it!! Thanks bruuuu.

[@chrisharvie-smith486]

Keeping the holes is so you can print them. Then when the inside of the print is drained you can put them back in & cure the model closed again. If you line them up & note where they came from the surface will match. For items with larger flat faces such as boxes, gears would the bottom be best against the build plate for the flatest side? For large area rigid build plate is this a bit risky it will try & cement itself on & be difficult to remove but OK for flexible magnetic plates ? Thanks for the useful guide !😁

[@MartinAaberge]

Thanks :) 😊 I just started this journey and I’m about to print a magic wand. Curious to hear how you would set that up. I am thinking about splitting it in half and printing both parts in one go.

[@kurtvillcheck6449]

Wow awesome video!

[@Jevfandrew]

Hey man, this is such a great video. I really appreciate all your explanation, very helpful for us 3D print newbies here. I have a question regarding the fume of the resin, do you have any tips on how to print safely in a small room without any ventilation? I heard the SLA resin can have a very bad effect on health.

[@justjarryd]

Hey thanks man, I really appreciate that! I responded earlier but I don't think I really answered your question. I print in a tiny room, so here is what I do: - I limit removing the lid to avoid letting the fumes out. - When removing the lid I make sure that my windows and doors are open. - Having a mask with a filter for chemicals and fine particles really helps. I mainly use the Phrozen SM4K which has no air filter and I prefer that. No air movement during printing and I ventilate when I remove the print. Hope that helps. :)

[@danovski]

Hello, im making a rotary mechanical part for a prototype but had a lot of difficulties printing it. the orientation and supports posed a problem as the part had small crevices in which its hard to cut the supports as well as hard to maintain it centrifugally balanced. I know its quite a lot but this is such a big wall for my prototyping adventure and would love to see you do a video on it. I could send the 3D file :D

[@justjarryd]

Hi, thank you for your comment. This could be a video on it's own because there is A LOT of information regarding this. In short, mechanical parts don't always work well with resin printing (shinkage, warping, heat fractures, etc.). I think this would be a great video to make, "how to print mechanical parts" but I will need to get extra tools and different resins first.

[@danovski]

@@justjarryd That would sound amazing, I think many would love to see that happen. I already have a part that has some deformations on the first layers. Syraia tech Blu is amazing in this regard. As soon as I'm getting the new Elegoo Saturn I'm printing some mechanical Accessories that if successful, will go on kickstarter :)

[@kieran1845]

Thank you

[@justjarryd]

Busy with an updated version. Stay tuned.

[@kieran1845]

@@justjarryd thank you!

[@mcride1]

Great video, can you do similar process for lychee?

[@justjarryd]

Yes, definitely. Will make one soon.

[@cameronyoung2004]

Just keep going

[@justjarryd]

Thanks! I intend to. :) Might do an updated version of this video soon.

[@jrzero100]

My only problem is the joints never fit I have to sandpaper and sandpaper.

[@justjarryd]

Different resins have different shrink values. Once you are used to the resin that you use most then you can build in a tolerance to minimise the amount of sanding, but there will almost always be some sanding to get it right. For ball and socket joints, connect the parts first and then UV cure.

[@alekasantaros9779]

Hi I have a problem with my resin 3d print. My prints don't print with flat surface at the part that face the plate the are mess up in these place how can I fix it?

[@konyik6667]

How can you scale the models while print part by part?

[@davidreneau9259]

Great tutorial. Can a little suction mess up the fep of the resin printer. Asking because I have some complex models

[@justjarryd]

Thank you so much! Stay tuned for the revised version dropping in a few weeks. And to answer your question: A little suction force won't mess up the FEP but it will damage your print and you can have a blow-out. Avoid any suction force by adding some drain holes. You can close the holes very easy with a drop of resin and cure to close it off. Will be touching on this process in a future vid. What can damage your FEP sheet is repetitive printing of the same model in the same place. If I need to print a few copies of the same file then I save out a couple versions where I simply move them around the build plate. Hope this helps! Happy printing!

[@Bomber-Trebor]

i got an ressin printer for birthday and i have a problem i have some moddles i want to print but they are in an format the printer can't use can you please help me

[@justjarryd]

Hi there! Happy birthday! :) What printer did you get? So, printers will accept a file from their preferred slicer. For example a Phrozen or Elegoo machine will use Chitubox and accept a .CTB file. 3D files will be supplied in "STL" format and you will have to support, slice and save in the file your machine will accept.

[@Bomber-Trebor]

@@justjarryd i have the nova 3D elfin2 mono se (Thanks for your help)

[@Bomber-Trebor]

​@@justjarryd and as far as i know does .CWS files work because of the alredy installed test files

[@justjarryd]

@@Bomber-Trebor No problem! :) Great little machine. You will want to use Lychee or Chitubox to slice your model then. Save out at their native files after slicing and not a 3D file. I don't have a video on using Lychee but there are a few on KZbin. Best of luck and let me know if you get stuck. :)

[@justjarryd]

@@Bomber-Trebor .CWS was from Creation WorkShop. Not sure if they are still running but yes that would be an example of a sliced file. 2 best slicers to use are Chitubox and Lychee (which your machine should be native to)

[@dreadgarr]

do you cut your own models? meaning big models on the photon zero?..

[@justjarryd]

I do. Busy making a video to show the process of how to cut and key models.

[@mikemouchiha1504]

@Jarryd Muir - Creative Obsession whats a Good Modeling Software to use for the Anycubic Photon Mono X?

[@justjarryd]

What type of modeling are you wanting to do? Characters, environments or CAD?

[@mikemouchiha1504]

@@justjarryd to be honest, I'm trying to do Small Sculptures, from the Chest torso and up, and I also wanna do some 3D Designs for Masks that completely cover the whole Face, I hadn't quite figured out a kind of Sculpting Software for the Photon Mono X

[@justjarryd]

@@mikemouchiha1504 there are a few programs that can be great for this type of work. Most 3D programs will export STL files which is what you need to slice before printing. 1. Blender would be the obvious choice and highly recommended. It is free and crazy powerful. 2. Sculptris is the baby version of Zbrush and can be really useful. Those are 2 free options, and I personally use Blender and Zbrush. Zbrush is the industry standard for sculpting but is pricey if you are just wanting to do this as a hobby.

[@mikemouchiha1504]

@@justjarryd Hey im just Reading this Comment, in Sincerest, I Really do Appreciate your Advice. no one has actually bothered too reply to my Question, knowing i have no Knowledge when it comes to 3D Printing (not even UncleJesse, replied to my email, nor did MakerMuse, you'd think they would offer some kind of Advice, to Help New Hobbyist begin they're Journey in the 3D World Especially as KZbin Fans there are so many options . i was Stuck, even when i Look for the Answer it was Never a Clear Answer just Basic Responses like use TinkerCad or use this and That I Just didn't wanna take the Risk of Learning a New Software, only to find out i cant 3D Print due to 3D Formats all I'm trying to do is Expand my Creativity Side, and Virtually be able to Create Physical Art Work, thanks Again for your Genuine Comment

[@justjarryd]

@@mikemouchiha1504 my pleasure! I am glad I could help. :) I have some videos lined up geared towards making sculptures for 3D printing. I am only recently getting back into making videos for this channel. Will be sharing a lot more content soon! Watch this space!

[@gurolonur]

Hi, I have car model and at he scale that I want to print some thin parts won't came out correct...How can I fix them?

[@justjarryd]

Hi there, this depends on the final size/ scale, print settings and resin used. Some resins have a higher viscosity that will struggle to print thinner walls or at lower microns. How does the print fail?

[@gregorychard]

G'day How would you do a rounded object which is virtually the size of the print plate? I can rotate it a little on the z axis and it is already angled on the x and y arises. Happy3dmodeling Greg

[@justjarryd]

Hi Greg, sorry for the late reply. By rounded, do you mean a sphere or a disk like the bottom of a DnD mini?

[@gregorychard]

@@justjarryd G'day @Jarrod When I was referring to, would be a disc shaped object. Thanks for your response, but I worked it out myself. It turned out great, BTW, with your guidance from your videos. Your are going to be 'my man to go to' in the future, if you don't mind. I'm keeping a volumeof your videos, under 'saved' in my files, as a help to me in the future. As we would say in Aussie, 'you'rebonzzamate'. Translation: You are a fantastic friend! Greg

[@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774]

hey there, for resin workflow is it necessary to hollow? or solid?= or make some desicion? I am more focus on 3D modelling and scultpint, have strong use of zbrush, but not for 3D printing...so I would like to know what desicion should I make? to planning my worfflow..I know that in PLA 3d model for 3D printing proabably you should inflate or make solid the mesh, making a little bulky cause can break sometimes...In resin all it is perfect and smooth ?

[@justjarryd]

I would suggest making your models hollow every chance you get. The reasons why are mainly because it saves on resin and the other is the prevent cracking on the surface because the outer part of your model cools down quicker than the inside causing stress. Hollowing a model is very straight forward and can be done inside of the slicers. Make sure you add a drainage hole at the base of your model (closest to the build plate). Resin can print fine details like DnD mini's, and FDM (PLA) machines can print large models cheaply. I too am a 3D artist and use 3D printers for fun.

[@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774]

@@justjarryd for miniatures is always best to separate pieces using some sort of keying (pinning-hollowing pieces) ? thx

[@justjarryd]

@@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774 Having the model separated would make it easier to print and give you better details because you can minimize the overhangs. 28mm Minis are very small and sometimes it is more effort to try and print it separately than to print it all at once. Larger models benefit from splitting. However, splitting and keying is not an option for most 3D printer users because you need to know how to 3D model. This is why more and more models are pre supported and split for easy printing. Since you are a 3D artist then you can split and key your own models. I will be releasing a video on splitting and keying in Zbrush in 3 weeks time.

[@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774]

@@justjarryd 28 mm and 36 mm is not good to separate (because is more effort to try print them)? ahh ok I was very confuse, I think always to keep always separation via keying-pinning tecnique... Yep I would like to know a good video to separate via keying-pinning models , take notes, special because I ve not experience in 3D printing, I use zbrush years ago , I can learn easy 3D printing...I guess...but I need practice of course, you can use zbrush very well ,but need some technique and notes for understanding what happened in 3D printing workflow! thx dude!!!

[@justjarryd]

@@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774 pleasure man! It comes down to personal preference if you want to split or not. This is the internet, there are going to be some people that will disagree with me but if the model is really small like a low resolution 28mm mini then I am not going to waste 3hrs of my time splitting and keying it BUT if I paid good money for a super high resolution model then I might just give it a couple hours of my time to slit it. (most paid models come split already.) Splitting will always give better results. But on something so small, are those results really worth the extra hours? (If you are doing it for a job then obviously go with what gives you the best results.)

[@anthonystrydom1656]

Hi. I bought a pattern and need to print it in multiple parts on the Halot One but cant seem to get the sizes right as one piece is bigger than the other and does not want to fit into each other. Do you have any advise for me?

[@justjarryd]

Hi there! By pattern do you mean a 3D file? Most 3D files should be set up correctly however there are the odd occasions where they forget to export the correct sizes. I would add all the files into your 3D program of choice eg. Meshmixer and pre assemble your model. Often times the scale is off by x10 or x100 based on the scene scale from the program they exported from. But if that is not the case it could be that your program is auto scaling to automatically fit the build plate. BUT what is most likely happening is that the resin you are using has a very high shrink value and could be messing with very fine parts or measurements. Will need some more info if that advice doesn't help you out. What resin are you using, what slicer are you using and what file are you trying to print? Thanks :)

[@anthonystrydom1656]

@@justjarryd thank you for the reply. I am using halot box and use the water washable creality resin. Think i will try the Meshmixer route. It is a stl model that i want to print of the nintendo character, has 81 pieces

[@BrianBlakGuldager]

How did you set up the photon zero in the programs?

[@justjarryd]

Anycubic printers use their own slicing software, Photon Workshop. It will have all the profiles there.

[@dodobarbar]

Oh, boy. You made some fundamental mistakes! Though, you made this video 9-month ago. So I guess you learn in mean time :-) Let me give you a tip. If you use a Sphere as a Contact Shape, be careful to set it in a way that a sphere pops-out of the model just a tiny bit. In your case the sphere is totally "immersed" in the model. So it's absolutely useless! The point is that the sphere remains intact while the support breaks at the connection point between the sphere and the support cone. After the break-off you will have a model with tiny bumps (from spheres) that you can easily sand/file off. In your method the support will break between the model and the support cone, and often the model will be chipped! A contact sphere act as a "damping" if you will.

[@justjarryd]

Thanks, that is a good tip. Actually, I've been wanting to make a updated version of this video because it was one of my first videos. I do hope you liked some parts of the video tho.

[@justjarryd]

Any other "funamental mistakes", please let me know. :)

[@dodobarbar]

@@justjarryd Sure the "explanatory" graphics at the beginning -top-notch!

[@dodobarbar]

@@justjarryd It's the way how you position your models. Plus, you really don't want ANY island to remain unsupported. Though there are rare exceptions. But it's hard to explain through these comments. But, hey... good work! Keep going.

[@ZealousDragon]

Can anyone identify the printer on the table in the background shot? @0:32 #jarrydmuir

[@justjarryd]

That was a Photon Mini. Don't think they are around anymore. Tiny build size, good for DnD mini's or rings.

[@adcrafts9999]

Great video! 👌

[@justjarryd]

Glad you liked the video! :D Much appreciated, ty!