sewing raw edges on woven fabrics: part 1

Hi everyone, today I'll go over a few different options for raw edge seams on woven fabrics plus a little chit chat. As always I thank you for being here and links are below.
My measurement info for reference:
Height 5'3"
weight 138 LB
bust 38"
waist 34"
hips 39"
Patterns:
Tessuti Naia pants:
www.tessuti-shop.com/collecti...
Cris Wood Sews Envelope dress:
criswoodsews.com/products/env...
Pattern Emporium Sun kissed Kaftan:
patternemporium.com/products/...
Sew Liberated Studio Tunic:
sewliberated.com/products/stu...
Raw Edges on knits Video: • Adding raw edges to kn...
Cris Wood Sews Envelope dress video:
• cris wood sews: Envelo...
Pattern Emporium Sunkissed Kaftan video:
• I made them twice but ...
My Ko-Fi
ko-fi.com/thebigsewalong93302
My instagram
/ therealbigsewalong

[@Sabine69]

❤❤❤ Thank you!

[@BethS-LA]

This is very helpful, thank you! The bias insertion technique is nice.

[@valeriebishop561]

YES this is very helpful! I haven't done any sewing for garments in many years other than mending or slight alterations. It's calling to me big time. Thank you!

[@thebigsewalong]

Yay! 😀

[@redkbikerider]

When I signed up for an intro to pottery I made a Studio Tunic from mid wgt herringbone twill denim and now love if for around the house too! I'm not usually a fan of facings so I was going to use bias trim instead but then I found some sturdy but lighter wgt cotton in my stash to use for the facings so went as per pattern. Lovely big pockets are great for holding a small knitting project too!

[@thebigsewalong]

I’m in love with those big pockets!

[@julieparrish6051]

For armholes, necklines and pants/skirt hems, I've had very happy results with bias strips sewn right down the center along the pattern stitch/fold line (along the armhole and neckline stitching line and about half-inch above the chosen hem length). You can press the main fabric to the back, with serged edge or whatever, or you can press everything inwards and do an edgestitch close to the fold to keep in place. I did this on a top and skirt pieced together with various batik fabrics so was able to use different coordinating fabrics for the bias. I think I simply folded bias over the waistline and stitched it down, but would include an inner piece of on-grain fabric next time to give the waistband more stability against the bias tendency to stretch.

[@thebigsewalong]

Thanks Julie. I was originally thinking about just sewing the facings to the wrong side (wrong sides together) then trimming the edges down but I now I think I’ll use this method foe more stability anyway thank you so much for the tips!!

[@robyn3349]

Thank you, Gini! Experimentation is the name of the game!❤🎉

[@thebigsewalong]

I love a good experiment!!

[@bluegrassdreams2seams510]

Gini: interesting tests. I don’t know that I’ve done this type of seams before but I like the results😊

[@thebigsewalong]

Thanks Cheryl. I like the look we’ll see how they wear 🤔

[@k3of5ks]

Hi Ginnie. I made the Studio Tunic last year and need to make another. I chose a linen/cotton bottom weight and it didn't have enough drape. Just recently gave it away to Potter friend who uses it as an apron. Will use 100 percent linen next make. Finally made the S9907 Simplicity pants and I cannot say enough great things. Cant seem to take them off. LOVE them. Had to work doubly hard on the shortening tho. Couldn't take away 3" in one place so split it up. Watch for the length. Big 4 drafts on the taller side. Hem facings are also nice. Happy Sunday!

[@thebigsewalong]

Oh thanks for the tips on S9907 those will be coming up for me soon what fabric did you use?

[@k3of5ks]

@@thebigsewalong Thrifted 100% linen duvet cover in forest green. Best guess is approximately shirt weight. I hope this helps.

[@judithritner9696]

Hi Gini, those pants are so cute on you. They inspired me to use some cotton/linen gathered waist, wide leg pants that I own, but never wear. I think using two folds (like soft pleats) instead of the front gathers I might be able to change them enough that I might wear them😁! I was thinking of using a TG pants pattern to redesign the pants to have a slimmer leg. This would be so much easier, and if I don’t like it I can still open the seams and recut them using OPRAH or something similar. The demo of all the frayed edge seams was great. I haven’t tried the frayed edges as I feel they just add bulk and look messy on me😏. I really look forward to a review/demo of the Studio Tunic,I think I would wear it often.🤗 thank you again for another super helpful video. 😘🩷

[@thebigsewalong]

Thanks Judith! I think your idea for the pants remake sounds perfect, as you said, if you don’t like it you can always go back to your original idea. I love a good frayed edge but I have to admit it can be a little hit or miss in terms of how the finished project looks once you have it on. I come up with ideas that I think will be really cool and edgy and they do look that way sometimes but then when I put them on I’m like “oh nooooo”

[@charlottemccaig578]

Those pants are a great fit on you! I just looked at their pants patterns the other day. I kept telling myself I already have patterns similar so I don't buy but now.....I think these are just different enough. Guess I'll wander back over to Tessuti, lol. I also have the Studio Tunic pattern all printed out for over a year and still haven't made it. I even opened up a bunch of denim jeans so I can sew them into yardage for the tunic. Really looking forward to seeing yours next week. Big kiss to Claude!

[@thebigsewalong]

Hi Charlotte Claude says hello 👋 🐶 I really debated buying another pants pattern as I have SO many but I’m glad I got this one I really love the way they look and they’re super comfy. They are meant to have a bit of a dropped crotch but it was too low for me so I had to shorten it a bit to get them to fit this way.

[@marymclaughlin1907]

What brand of pinking shears do you use Mark? I learned to sew in the days before people had sergers so I often used pinking shears. I was frustrated with how slow they were. Do you have any tips on using them? Have you ever had a pair sharpened? Have you ever used a rotary cutter with a pinking blade? I have not thanks for your video. It was interesting and informative as always!

[@thebigsewalong]

Hi Mary I too learned to use pinking shears waaaaay back mine are from Kai scissors kaiscissors.com/product/kai-5350-9-inch-pinking-shears/ These are soooo much easier to use than the old metal kind I had for ages. They are lightweight and smooth cutting so it goes a lot faster I’ve never had them sharpened. Although all of my Kai scissors stay pretty sharp for a long time (I have three pair) I’ve never used a pinked rotary blade but I’ve been tempted to get one.

[@carolbibby3089]

Wouldn't the raw edges keep fraying to the seam? I have a pair of jeans with raw edges, but after one wash, I could see I'd be trimming them after every wash. I've sewn a row of stitching just above where the fraying starts. I'd like to know how the examples you've shown wear. Must look at the Tessuti pants pattern,as they fit you really well.

[@thebigsewalong]

Yes they will keep fraying every time you wash them I used the linking shears to mitigate that a bit but we shall see. I’m going to wash my samples a few more times and see what happens I’ll keep you all posted 🤗

[@carolbibby3089]

I’ll be interested to see the outcome 😊

[@AuntBecsCreations]

So you have raw edges on the outside of the garments? You said wrong sides together so that is what I am envisioning.

[@thebigsewalong]

Yes exactly. I should have been more clear about that I’ll try to find some ready to wear pics for next week 🤗

[@janfranklin2114]

I now have FOMO with those two patterns 😖

[@thebigsewalong]

😂😂😂

[@ellenyoungbluth7696]

So these are exposed seams I assume, since you continue to describe them as sewing wrong sides together.

[@thebigsewalong]

Hi Ellen, yes these would be exposed seams in fact I should have called them that for more clarity. 😂