Shelby GT350 Voodoo Engine Tear Down Investigation

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Update: alright ya'll. Motor has been back together for 9 months and currently has about 36 track hours on it. Been tearing up tracks all summer long without a hiccup. Rebuild has been a huge success so far. Video from a recent track day showing the beast in action: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZnGk6inp72jm9U Original pin: So short block is with Tim at MPR Racing Engines getting sleeved and an upgraded rotating assembly. Custom diamond pistons, billet connecting rods, ARP bolts, etc. Also getting machined, cleaned, etc. The head went to RGR to get their port and polish job along with upgraded Ferrea super alloy exhaust valves, Ti retainers, bronze guides and stiffer PAC Racing springs. Will be having AED help me with (3) tunes - one for 93, one for E85, and one for VP100. It should be a monster when all back together. Edit to answer some common questions: 1. Car ran the OEM motorcraft 5W-50. Was changed every 6-8 hours. Planning on Amsoil Dominator 15W-50 for the new engine. 2. This was exclusively track car once we hit about 13K miles on the odometer. Spent most of its life north 5K rpm. 3. Motor was 100% stock. No tune, e85, CAT, etc. 4. Did not use oil from what I was able to gather (including up until the end).

[@johnrunion7258]

Your not messing around,that build should give it a long and happy life.

[@papajoewil10]

Subbed

[@freethinkingamerican80]

Stock is about 525ish? What power #s are you expecting after the rebuild?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@freethinkingamerican80 She's back together and ripping up the local tracks. Putting down 540 to the wheels on a conservative road racing tune. Dyno video coming soon

[@dy3812]

@@honeybadgershenanigans How much did the new engine rebuild cost you?

[@ISFASTER]

12,000 track miles 😳😳😳. Props to you for driving her like she’s meant to be driven! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@400hpmustang]

I've always thought of the Voodoo as a pretty stout engine and for 12k track miles, overall the engine components held up. Accept for the piece of valve spring. Thanks for putting together the vid.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

That was my conclusion as well. There's room to be had just like production to be had, but Ford did a great job.

[@laptimzmotorsports8359]

Dude....excellent job documenting this process. Keep em coming!!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yep! Hope to share all I can throughout the process. Lots of good stuff that I think will help calm folks who are worried about the voodoo as well provide realistic expectations of a refresh cost

[@JustinAEgan]

@@honeybadgershenanigans ... 'The big question that sits in the shadows, in the back of my mind. Why do so many people Take the GT350 to the track - when Ford made the GT350R, for exactly that venue? Captain Obvious - already spanked me... A. B. C. A. cost of the GT350R B. availability - seems most GT350R will 'never' be driven (at all) - they will be in collections, forever! C. Dealer gouging; mark-up was/is criminal

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@JustinAEgan Pretty much hit the nail on the head. The R is cool, but hard to get, has expensive bits to repair if broken (wheels get really abused on track), and they're 7-15K more depending on how much market adjustment you paid. This car is a standard GT350 and it really didn't take much to get it up to par with an R (wheels, tires, and springs) in terms of performance. Collectability is an entirely different story, tho :)

[@alanhardman2447]

Pretty tough engine in my estimation! Especially considering its life up to the present. Subscribed and watching!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Agreed. They've gotten a bad rep, but they're damn stout. People forget this engine wasn't built with the end goals to drive half a million miles, but withstand abuse on a race track while still being street friendly. Even the toughest race engines don't last long on...

[@RacerX-124]

Race track survivability like this just a few decades ago was a fairy tale.

[@watsonanthony8438]

@@honeybadgershenanigans terminator cobras take anything 🤣🤣

[@Powertoolz]

Well built motor. 12k track miles is an insane amount if laps. Hats off to you sir.

[@adrianw3985]

I used to work in an Engine shop. Your wear and tear doesn't look abnormal. Looks like the engine is holding up pretty nicely, other then that one valve spring defect. I would just make sure to get any metal bits out of the oil pan, screen, and just replace the oil pump. You don't want to have anymore metal bits floating around in the engine or oil passages. I know this probably seems obvious, just make sure no more loose metal particles are in there anywhere. Maybe spend the money to have it professionally cleansed in an engine shop. You would be surprised where little metal bit might be hiding still...

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Block is off at MPR Racing Engines getting the works. It should be in good shape and free of any particles 😁 also replacing the oil pan for piece of mind

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

Valve springs are ass especially with these I don’t know how ford DIDNT catch on to it with this but hey just one more reason for it to show right back up in the shop eh 😂

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

This sounds like a nightmare but in a good way it opens up the idea of needing horsepower parts 😂

[@chrisdaigle5410]

12,000 track miles is an eternity.

[@-Wreckanize-]

Seriously, that's like 100K street miles.

[@a29s12]

@@-Wreckanize- way more than that.

[@bikinchris]

@Andrew Schwab True. There is no racing team that would run an engine that long. There is no way he is not down a lot on power at 12,000 miles. He should be SUPER proud the engine lasted that long in race use.

[@shotokanslammer1]

12,000 track miles on a high revving engine makes it more like 150,000 street miles.

[@lucasjohnson3780]

@@bikinchris GT3 series engines are rated for these miles. R8 V10 race spec is good for 12.4k miles, AMG V8 is 12.7k

[@nwtrackaddicts]

Thanks for taking one huge leap for the voodoo community Kevin!!😎

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Hopefully I'll lots of good data for you by the time you need to refresh Grab R!

[@nwtrackaddicts]

@@honeybadgershenanigans you better throw vit on the Dyno to tune. Need to see the power increase from the heads. Definitely want to do that when finally change the OP gears.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Oh it will be. Shaun at AED will be tuning it. Plan to run separate 93, E85 and 100 tunes. Lots of dyno time for the beast

[@overheadcam32]

Impressive mechanic work. I wouldn’t have the confidence to tear into a mod motor like this. Good luck.👍

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

thanks brother. Been a fun ride so far!

[@tylerthomas9567]

Nice work! Great video, I love the voodoo motors. As your putting it back together, definitely throw in some billet oil pump gears. MMR makes an awesome oil pump for the voodoo motor. The billet oil pump gears will give you very consistent oil pressure particularly in the really high revs. Good luck!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Thanks! Got a new oil pump ready to go on once I get the block and heads back

[@scottybear6265]

Do what you exactly did and you found more to the story and investigate finding issues that needed to addressed and rectified, nice job. I would let you work on my 5.0 liter coyote

[@G5Ckxew]

It's nice to see someone else with the balls to tear into a Voodoo. It would be a shame to do all that work and not sleeve the block, but that's just my preference. Keep it up! Subscribed

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Went full send. Will have more details in the coming weeks - but shes getting the works :)

[@Jack-z6j4q]

I’d love to see and hear more about how everything goes. Maybe some more videos when you get your short block back, etc? Appreciate the transparency and discussion throughout the year down. Solid stuff here, hope you do more. Subbed!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Thanks, brother! Will keep you updated. Hopefully reassembly will be happening in the next 3 weeks (waiting on parts to come back).

[@ilandman4evr]

Awesome vid. imo I would sleeve it because that wear is only going to get worst over time. You drive it like you stole with is great. Upgraded the bearings & connecting rods would sure be nice too. Since you are already have it apart why not. . Good luck

[@HotShotHaven]

The fretting on the backside of the main bearings definitely means that the block is quivering under load..

[@dustrussell5783]

What a great engine!!! 12k track miles around 8k rpm... Wow engine looks marvelous....

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Agreed. This engine took so much abuse. Loving version mk 2 as well.

[@cobrasvt347]

Right out of the box I tore down my brand new voodoo, had MMR install their ductile iron sleeves, and ordered forged pistons, rods, ARP 2000 studs and a Cometic gaskets. Hopefully I've eliminated any future problems with the 5.2. Time will tell

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

There seemed to be a big problem with the cylinders - a sleeved block should have fixed that. I'm most worried about the valve train, though. Did you make any changes there?

[@HornetVF103]

You just experienced the life of an NHRA team every day. A complete tear down.

[@roberttinsey7411]

I have a super important question. Where can I get that dog bed? I've been looking for one just like that for my dog.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Ha! They’re from Costco. Haven’t seen them in a while. I’ve been keeping an eye out for them as well

[@AA-nf2jl]

Really cool video, as a gt350 owner I like learning anything I can about the car, especially the engine.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I'm the same way. This felt like a good opportunity to share with others. Happy to hear you liked it! They'll be a good reassembly video coming once I get it back together.

[@tylerdurden8939]

i already like your channel dude, i have a 17 gt premium manual but what you have is what i wish i could have got so bad, lol. that and i wish i had the balls to take my own engine apart.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Thanks for the kind words, brother. Keep up the hustle and you'll get there. Been having a blast with this project. It's complete madness, but learning tons. Taking an engine apart isn't too bad if you have the service manual. Walks you through it step by step

[@tylerdurden8939]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Yea, i don't doubt it. I have a f150 with a 3 valve 5.4 so i may attempt it on that first. It is starting to use a little oil. It is a 2010 with 60k miles. Thanks for the advice, i would definitely get the manual. I farm so i already have a nice shop with a good selection of tools.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Good call. Lucky on access to the good shop and tools. That's half the battle!

[@thewrightchannel938]

I wish I had your knowledge! I have a 2016 was told the noise is piston slap however it’s getting louder and I’m afraid I’m going to be up the creek!😞

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Have you taken it to the dealer? There's a tune update that will help with piston slap

[@1darryloflife]

I would install a modified water pump as the standard pumps tend to cavitate in the eye of the pump. The small impeller is inly plastic and not a very good design. I have the Miami engine which gained 2 inches of mercury at idle by putting a proper impeller on the standard pump.

[@nfarnell1]

One persons opinion: clearly the engine is performing at it's limit, the wear I see is not terrible considering. If I were asked how to improve the durability I would suggest a much better oil, and more frequent change. Also I would back the rev limiter down 500 rpm. Any engine has a limit on loaded RPM, very weird things happen when the energy to drive a reciprocating mass exceeds the structural limit of the bearings containing that energy. Extreme heat is produced in very small points, best to be very careful regarding the oil and it's cooling. good luck .

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Adding additional oil cooling, capacity and changing to a racing oil. Hopefully that'll help.

[@krisstathakopoulos7409]

And I also salute you for driving and treating that car like a race car cause that what it is 👍🏻

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Appreciate it brother. So many don't understand the difference between daily driving, running it hard on the streed and then heavy duty road course work. Very different things.

[@ApexxPredatorr]

Great vid Kev, thanks for sharing!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Thanks, Nick!

[@lju3428]

take it to McFarland machining and let Cleetus dingleberry hone that thing

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

the last time Cleetus and crew worked on a Ford it didn't go so well :)

[@montev4]

Clitorus McFartleskeet

[@brakesforsnakes757]

@@montev4 😂

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

Cleetus has a track record of blowing shit up that dates back to before his KZbin channel was a thing 😂

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

Cleetus finna give him the special watch him add too much boost to an already stock motor yeah that’s the cleetus way whatever I lose in terms of parts I make up in horsepower 😂

[@true8189]

Is it possible a piece of the oil pump gear itself broke off/chipped and caused this?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I wondered this. But the oil pump wear definitely looks like it had impact on all the major scuff/scoring points, so not sure. Wish I knew tho. Chicken or the egg. Haha

[@dilldowschwagginz2674]

Very solid design. The voodoo is already a legend

[@zstanz5868]

You mentioned a little wear from piston slap. Was yours audible? Mine mostly diminishes after 3K rpm or once engine is hot. Very curious as that's the only long term reliability concern for my car. I've been fortunate with little to no oil consumption.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I never noticed it, tbh. I listened for it, but never heard it. Generally speaking, the engine was fairly quiet. I wouldn't worry about it. Run it hard and enjoy it. A lot of folks don't realize the abuse mine went through. Big different in track miles at tracks like COTA and Road Atlanta than heavy duty street driving. Run it hard, brother!

[@zstanz5868]

@@honeybadgershenanigans thanks for the reply sir, not overly concerned, was just curious based on what you saw. I daily mine, and definitely enjoy it. Looking to get my feet wet on some track days!

[@americathegreat1811]

Looks good for 12K track miles. Maybe upgrade cooling everywhere you can?

[@Bodhi7007]

Hi, in the technical spec it says, the engine is equipped with serial port injection, is it a true port injection? If it's a true Port injection type, then why is Ford performance recommending Oil catch cans for both driver and passenger side of the GT350? please confirm the fuel injection type on the GT350 engine. Thanks!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

It does have true port injection. My understanding is you don't want oil vapor inside the combustion chamber when you're pushing the engine hard. It's not so much to keep the valves clean, but more about the combustion chamber.

[@MustangGuru]

How did that piece of valve spring get past the screen on the oil pump pickup in the pan? That must be damaged to.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Answered above, but the screen was intact. So no idea what did the OPG damage. Isolated incidents?

[@davidkosa]

I would be interested to know how the journals and bores measure out. Is an overbore necessary or just a hone? Likewise for the crank journals. Do you need new cams?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I'll ask Tim next time I talk to him (he's doing my short block machining). We're sleeving the block, so doing some fairly big upgrades. No new cams this time around. OEM ones are in great shape and no aftermarket replacements available yet.

[@FutureGameLight]

would you say that the new vodoo gen 2 is better for these problems? i want a new gt350 with the predator block but i dont know how good the engine really is or better said how long it will last. i will of course use the best oil and change it as accordingly, maybe track it once or twice per year on the nürburgring and only drive it on back roads in the summer as a fun car. i live in germany so i cant really get a fast replacement if the engine would blow up. so this could ruin my hole summer thats why i want the new engine block in the first place but i dont know if it would be worth it.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

The new block will help with some of the issues (mostly relating crankcase pressures and cylinder/ringland issues), but it won't fix all. The 2019-2020 motors seem to be fairing much better, but there doesn't seem to be a batch that are having valve spring issues. How long it will last is a crap shoot, IMHO. These engines are extremely stout and can take a lot of abuse. You can't really guarantee yourself protection with these cars. There isn't a specific model year, type of use, etc. I know 2016s with 60k+ trouble free miles and 2020s that have broken within 200. The 2019-2020s are probably a safer bet, but I wouldn't bet the farm on any model year.

[@FutureGameLight]

@@honeybadgershenanigans totally understand what you mean and thanks for your opinion it helped quiet a bit. btw is the gt500 over all more solid just because of the other crank used? or is this just another internet myth

[@canadianmarauder1923]

I was wondering why you couldn’t just give it a quick hone yourself and reassemble short block with new bearings and rings? I been trying to figure out how to do a half decent light hone on my 03 4v modular at home. I know it’s not recommended without torque plates but I can’t afford to get a shop to build it for me

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

A dingleberry hone should work for you. And we didn't do it ourselves because these Voodoo blocks have a plasma coating on the cylinder walls that can't be honed (well, not recommended). That and the Detroit tolerances mean there is a good amount of improvement to be had from better balancing, tolerances and machining. All together, we should have engine with beefier parts a smoother rotating assembly, which will handle RPM better.

[@scottcritchlow2542]

Thanks for the video. I've heard of valve spring problems before so I guess there is some truth to it. I'm assuming your's is a '16 or early '17 since you have a spin on filter. Anyway, as others have said that valve spring piece would have had to make it through the pickup screen and the filter to damage the journals or mains. My guess is some casting flash broke from inside the pump and caused the pump damage. The filter would've caught it. When you rebuild make sure to take the pump apart and debur the edges to clean up any junk. Can't wait to see the rebuild. Have you rebuilt a mod motor before?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

yep. She's an early 2017. My guess is flashing going through the pump as well. And nope, haven't rebuilt a mod-motor yet. I am cheating a bit, though. RGR has the heads and MPR Racing has the shortblock, so all I'll need to do is put back together, degree the cams and re-dress. Going to be absolutely wild - especially with the oiling improvements

[@scottcritchlow2542]

Awesome can't wait to see it go back together. Building a motor isn't that hard at all. Just debur/clean and check clearances. Curious to see how you degree the cams on a motor with VCT. I've done it multiple times on early mod motors. Anyway a rebuild for H4115 is a ways off. Can't wait to see the video.

[@fujimandkimyates3206]

The cylinder walls have a thing called cross hatching that helps pulled oil up the cylinders.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Voodoo cylinder walls actually use a special plasma arc coating for increased hardness, so the "cross hatching" isn't really applicable. They're super smooth and require a special piston ring that ford developed specifically for the block.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

It actually makes aftermarket builds of this engine really hard to get right. New block is sleeved and uses a custom set of diamond pistons and rings. You're not supposed to hone/bore out this block. Once the cylinder walls scored up out of spec, Ford recommends starting with a new block. I chose to sleeve instead, but that has led to some unique challenges as well.

[@RacerX-124]

That engine held up quite well. Did you get a chance to check the main and connecting rod bores? I'm curious how much they distort over a given time with the piston speed and inertia force they're coping with. Also curious how the camshaft housing is holding up. I had a hunch they'd bore those larger and add bearings, but my hunch seems to be wrong.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Unfortunately not. I didn't have the tools to measure it at the time, so I had Tim take care of that. The engine will be coming back out in a couple of weeks for winter maintenance and I'll be doing some investigative stuff. Don't plan to disassemble the rotating assembly since the oil analysis keeps coming up with ultra low wear indicators, but I will be taking the cams out.

[@RacerX-124]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Thanks for the reply! I'm curious how those cam bores held up. I saw below that you went ahead and upgraded the rotating assembly. Did you keep the factory rotating assembly?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@RacerX-124 I have 5 of the original pistons/rods/bearings left

[@RacerX-124]

Were 3 bad or just selling them to others? Thanks for your time.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@RacerX-124 mostly went to friends and family that helped with the rebuild :)

[@GR018]

HB, Any way to identify the voodoo engine casting #'s while engine is still in the car? My 2016 350R is missing the sticker on the valve cover that people like to use as a Gen 1 or 2 identifier. My car came with 30k miles on it and was a Ford test fleet car. Trying to see if it's an original engine. Ford won't tell me much.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

did you find the thread on Mustang6G? I know there's a way to decipher the engine codes - but I don't personally know it

[@GR018]

@honeybadgershenanigans a 6g member told me the VIN is stamped on the block just above the oil pan on the rear drivers side. Sure enough, there it was. My car has the original engine. Thx for asking. I enjoy watching your car adventures.

[@octalicious]

I think that engine held up really well given the track time you put into it. I have one suggestion for the heads at the machine shop, not a reliability thing but had you considered porting and polishing the intake and exhaust runners for smoother air flow? Also I probably missed it but what clued you into this issue with the broken spring in the first place? Thanks I enjoyed watching the video, keep up the great work

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

The heads are at RGR getting the works. Port and polish, ferrea super alloy exhaust valves, FP intake valves, bronze guides, Ti retainers and stiffer PAC Racing springs. They should be rowdy! And I first found the scored oil pump gear and housing, then found the spring fragment in the oil pan and then finally traced it to the #6 valve spring.

[@sheaton954]

Great video. What type of oil do you run? Hear so many complaints about piston slap on the voodoo engines I always wondered what type of wear you might see on the pistons.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I used the OEM fluid. Never worried about it much because I changed the fluid every 6-8 hours. Plan to go with Amsoil in the next round because of the focus in shear strength. And I think the piston slap is inevitable given the forged pistons and Detroit tolerances in the engine blueprinting. Excited to see if there is a difference when the tolerances are much tighter (race specs)

[@scottbarker9058]

@@honeybadgershenanigans NICE COV. I HAVE A STOC 2016...N IT WILL REMAIN THAT WAY...1 QUEST......I FOUND 3 DIFFR. GRADES OF AMSOIL. WHICH 1 WOULD U PREFER;THE OEM.....THE H.D.....OR THE SIGNATURE SERIES????

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@scottbarker9058 When I spoke to the Amsoil reps, they recommended their Signature Series for a street driven car www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-50-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/

[@cbidwell91]

I was just going to recommend switching to AMSOIL for this engine as well. We have a local shop building Voodoo engines over 1000 whp and the tuner told me they use AMSOIL exclusively. I'm sure that may also be customer specific and could be changed, but they see good results. I'm an AMSOIL dealer, so if you're interested and haven't already spoken with a dealer, feel free to message me or follow my link. facebook.com/camsoil

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@cbidwell91 will be in touch in the near future!

[@JC-gw3yo]

So how did the piece of broken spring get past the pick up screen on the oil pump ?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I don't think that part did...but I'm guessing smaller pieces of it did. Upon further inspection of the springs after I got the heads back from RGR, I found that 5 intake springs had been chipped at the very top.

[@JC-gw3yo]

@@honeybadgershenanigans sounds like the spring supplier screwed up...it is hard to make things these days... too bad it had to effect you.. but I would make sure there is a strainer screen in the system...the best

[@loneliness1210]

Great video! Just got my 350 a few days ago to replace the GT for summer track days. is there anything I need to keep in mind in order to keep the lifecycle of this engine? Thanks for sharing your findings and Looking for more updates!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Congrats on the purchase! I'd highly suggest running Amsoil if you're tracking. Better shear strength. If you're willing to void the warranty, I'd upgrade the oil pump gear and crank sprocket. From what I've been able to find out, the biggest weak link of the voodoo is the valve train. Stiffer springs and accompanying parts would be a good idea. But if you're okay with letting dealers take care of things, I'd leave it stock

[@loneliness1210]

Honey Badger thanks! great advice! Just registered for the mustang6g, waiting for approval. Will keep following and supporting your videos!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Thanks! I appreciate it! Holler if you have any additional questions. Always up to talk shop!

[@michaeldean3660]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Awesome info you put out there. I saw the recommendation of tear down and rebuild every 40 hours. Guessing that is 40 extreme track hours? I plan to run 2-3 track days (4-20 minute sessions) per summer, but not likely at the extreme level you are running and some spirited winding road fun. Was thinking change brake fluid every 3 track days, and obviously engine oil. Any suggestions on rear end and transmission fluid changes? Any other suggestions if keeping stock through warranty period? Any and all suggestions appreciated.

[@Michael_00001]

So safe to say that without any track use and only spirited driving with the occasional canyon run, and with only 6k miles on my 2017 GT350... it's essentially still new.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

For sure. These engines are stout. I wouldn't be worried!

[@Michael_00001]

@@honeybadgershenanigans I'm not worried in the least bit! Now if you listen to Shelby Exotics channel... 🙄

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Some really want those clicks and views

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

Imma have to check out this new video with this thing in action I just have to see what this thing has done now that the internals can actually handle the pressures 😂

[@y2kcobrar]

Have you noticed any gear whine from the trans? My 17 with 32k daily miles on it started to...

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I havent. Any specific gear/RPM?

[@wldtang]

Will you be doing a video of reassembly? You plan to upgrade hardware or you stock head and main bolts? I’m looking for torque values of stock head bolts

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yep. Will be detailing the assembly much more closely than the tear down. We've upgraded pretty much everything to ARP hardware. Torque values for the heads are: Stage 1: 22 lb ft Stage 2: 37 lb ft Stage 3: Additional 90 degrees Stage 4: Additional 90 degrees

[@wldtang]

Honey Badger thanks Do you have torque specs for main caps?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Traveling this week. But will share once I get a chance to look it up

[@G5Ckxew]

@@wldtang Message me tomorrow. I'm away from home but I have the official manual

[@wldtang]

stylac Can you send the manual to [e-mail]?

[@wardog-jo8wf]

I own a gt350 n i love it but am really scared that I might have to rebuild the engine one day is there a way i can prevent these kind of problems from happening? (I check its oil always n i have a catch can in the driver side)

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

not really. The engines are super stout, so failures are most often related to bad parts. That said, just make sure the oil filter is put on correctly when doing oil changes. That seems to be the main thing the average person can stay on top of. Unfortunately the rest of it is mostly luck of the draw.

[@rjhick1]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Do you know how you could fix the oil burning issue that some GT350s have? I think its great that you tear down the engine. I wish I could do this, I just dont have the skills or the equipment.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@rjhick1 From what I've seen, it appears to be most often related to the rings/cylinder walls on some. Sometimes a valve, but mostly a ring land failure. Unknown if it's ultimately a piston or block failure, though. Not much you can do to prevent it. But you can see it with a boroscope

[@garypeatling7927]

What's oil strainer like

[@garypeatling7927]

Remember on old VW oil pump used to wear on crank wasnt easy to see

[@soverythirsty8272]

How much of the scouring could be due to oil starvation? I only ask because that's something we're hearing lots of reports of.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

In the oil pump? Or do you mean in the cylinders?

[@soverythirsty8272]

​@@honeybadgershenanigans Sorry, the cams and the rod bearings.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@soverythirsty8272 ahh, I saw very little evidence of scoring on the cams/rod bearing. No evidence of oil starve from what I saw. The Voodoo has a pretty good OEM oil pickup/windage tray/oil pan design, so I'd be surprised of seeing issues with it. I could imagine issues with 5.0s, though.

[@soverythirsty8272]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Good to know, thanks!

[@whitefoxcoupe2024]

I’m looking for a good service manual for the coyote. I’m doing oil pump gears and cam swap. What do u suggest? I’m amazed at your progression.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I ordered mine from [e-mail]. I highly recommend the one with hyperlinks. There's a lot of cross-referencing in the service manual, so looking things up separately would be a nightmare. Hyperlinks make it easy!

[@excelerater]

As a DIY builder myself there is a bunch of upgrades one can do depending on budget. Pistons,rings,bearing,rods,valves ,blueprinted machine work are all on the table for me .I prob would only reuse the crank and block here if it were me all the small parts would be swapped for better shit

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I ended up going full send. The shortblock is at MPR Racing Engines getting sleeved with new pistons, rods, etc. She's being built for a long life of abuse :)

[@sarahdell4042]

Does Ford cover these motors, if you keep them stock but track the car? I’ve seen a fair amount of these blown up.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yep. They'll even pay for the tow truck to drive it from the track to the dealer

[@dawnmetsala3631]

I would NEVER buy a used one>

[@Blondell54]

The discoloration on the backs of the rod & man bearings is irrelevant. New valve spring, oil pump, rod & main bearings and gasket set with careful re-assembly. How did that piece of valve spring make it past the oil pump pickup? Attach a few magnets inside of the oil pan...

[@arekingi]

No way the whole piece got past the pickup screen; it would have immediately destroyed the oil pump and would never have made it past the oil filter or bearings intact. I would bet a small sliver just managed to squeeze through the pickup screen, and is probably in the oil filter along with the chips off of the oil pump gears. The motor surviving with nothing much more than a broken oil pump and some light damage to the snout of the crank is a damned miracle of you ask me.

[@Blondell54]

@@arekingi It had to have been pulled through the pickup screen, it did damage the oil pump.. The piece of valve spring had to have broken while the engine was running..

[@JohnDiMartino]

Why do you keep focusing on the back of the rod and main bearings and quickly show the real wear surface? That is not the wear surface, unless it spun a bearing no wear occurs there.... 12,000 hard miles and that engine looks pretty worn, not sure what oil you are running and what your oil change interval is but my guess is you aren’t maintaining it in line with the beating you are placing on it. 70 track hours on a stock engine with fresh oil before every event it shouldn’t look that bad.

[@HENSLEYDMB]

I think the back shows heat dissipation much better than the wear surface. From my experience anyway, I was a master certified technician for 12 years, many engine builds under my belt.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

William said it. The bearing wear itself is pretty damn good. Journals are smooth, etc. I was highlighting how hot things were getting.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Oil changed every 6-8 hours. Ford recommends a tear down and rebuild every 40 hours, so I think it's doing pretty good all things considered.

[@counti41]

Steel starts to change color from 400-800 degrees if its getting that hot the aluminum and babit layers on the journal side would smear all over the crank journal. The back of the bearing should get no work(heat) to it. The wear isn't too horrible on the journal surface tho. The damage could have been worse tho!.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@counti41 depends on the alloy. The bearings are super soft, so they react to heat much easier than say the crank.

[@joshuaraleigh8545]

What coating do you have on your garage floor? Have you been satisfied with it

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I have the $555 DIY kit from Garage Flooring LLC. I LOVE it. Tough and very cost effective. Plus, Justin (who runs Garage Flooring LLC) worked with me when I installed it wrong the first try. Highly recommend

[@joshuaraleigh8545]

Honey Badger Thanks for the advice man

[@sebbonxxsebbon6824]

That is a big piece of metal off the spring, crap dude.

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

Sebbonx Xsebbon yeah that spring was a little too stiff for itself 😂

[@n3163]

Hi, I need your help immediately plz... how much would it cost me to rebuild an engine on at 17 mustang GT350? The engine is blown.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Oooh....that's a hard question to answer. Do you know what's wrong with it specifically? Cylinder walls good? pistons/rods good? Could cost anywhere from $1-2K for some refresh items all the way to $20K for a full build :)

[@dparm1984]

Had you been getting oil analyses with regularity?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Not on the v1 engine. I have since the rebuild. Every oil change now

[@dparm1984]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Great. Would be curious to track those over time. Assume you post them on BITOG?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@dparm1984 I've posted them in my rebuild thread. Here's the first one from a trip to VIR and Road Atlanta www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gt350-engine-refresh-time.115139/page-31#post-2612312

[@spadethebarber8696]

did ur gt350 have any oil consumption at all?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

a tiny bit. But nothing I worried about - maybe quarter quart every oil change (mine wasn't ever really daily driven tho)

[@Khalid_Sbawi]

Hey Honey Badger, first it is very rare to see someone really using those cars to their potential! Idk if you could help me out on this,, I own a 2016 GT350 with about 23k miles on the odometer, its on its second engine as the first went out on the 1st owner due to oil leakage (A recall issue that he didnt respond to) so ford changed the engine. Now after 10k miles put on the engine by me, i'm facing an issue regarding camshaft position sensor. A month ago after a spirited weekend drive (My car rarely goes out its very lightly used) I have made several pulls, red-lining the heck out of it for a good 5-6 pulls. I stopped and noticed a weird ghost cam like idle and while cruising it changes its exhaust note weirdly. I drove back home and the next day a check engine light comes on. i scanned it and the codes for camshaft position sensor popped on both banks. I searched and found your video on those bad engine harness wires. So i took the car to a professional mechanic I've been dealing with for a while to check on that. I'd like to get know what are the possibilities that this is a phaser/cam gears failure vs a harness failure or a position sensor. and what would you recommend in case it is an internal failure to do as a preventative maintenance for this not to happen again in the future. The mechanic explained that as per his test the wiring harness are good and its very unlikely to be the sensors or solenoids. based on your experience what this issue could be and again what would you recommend to do in a case of an engine tear down. Btw, my car has a long tube headers from Kooks + a dyno tune that has been on it for the past 6 months. Appreciate your support as you've been dealing with this car for a good bit and abusing the heck out of it.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I've had quite a few chats with owners that have had a sensor problem (same code you have) and all but 1 have been the wiring harness. The one behind the airbox is the most susceptible. Which specific code did you throw? The cable isn't likely fully broken, but shorting. This can lead to it failing intermittently (i.e. passing a test) but still being bad.

[@Khalid_Sbawi]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Thanks alot for replying,, the codes i'm getting are P0013 & P0020,, and because my car has an engine replacement from the dealer 2 yrs ago i'm afraid they jacked up the wiring, so i ordered a full engine wiring harness and to be sure and safe i ordered a set of VCT solenoids in case it wasn't a harness thing. I hope it is this and not an internal damage to phasers or timing belt skipping or going bad.. however still that would be rare since the thing is fairly new and i'm crazy about oil changes as i do those every 1000 miles.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

​@@Khalid_Sbawi It's throwing both at the same time? That's interesting. Those are on opposite sides of the engine (the two most outer ones). Still very possible that both connections are having issues at the same, bit definitely not the norm. I seriously doubt its internal. Even if it was, there's not much that can go seriously wrong. It just advances/retards the timing to one position instead of being variable. Engine wouldn't run at all if something more major happened. Curious to hear what you find

[@Khalid_Sbawi]

Honey Badger yeah i know even the mechanic said its weird, i’ll update you soon after i get the wiring harness and start tearing it apart Thanks alot man

[@Khalid_Sbawi]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Hey man its been a while, long story short it was indeed a wiring harness issue. Swapped the engine harness issue completly gone! Thank you alot for putting up that clip on YT without it it would have been a nightmare for me

[@Avalanche2]

There is no way that can get into the oil pump - whatever got into the pump would have to get through the pickup screen.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I took apart the oil pan this weekend after seeing your comment. My assumption was the screen was damaged, but you got me curious. Screen was intact. More confused than when I started. Wonder if the valve spring part and the OPG damage were isolated incidents?

[@Avalanche2]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Yeah - it sucks but I think you might have two separate things going on - although it could be that a real tiny piece of that spring or some fragments got through the screen.

[@scottharter1161]

That large piece of valve spring obviously did not leave the oil pan once it made its way there in the oil drain downs. I assume that the large piece didn't break off cleanly; probably more like a shatter, and one or more smaller pieces came away as well. Any pieces small enough to fit through the pickup must have been what caused the UPG damage, but would have gone straight to the oil filter, right? If you still have the filter, cut it open and take a look. Either way, its probably a good idea to tank the block while its bare in case there are pieces that haven't made it down to the pan yet just waiting to eat another pump gear.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@scottharter1161 I opened up the oil filter and didn't see anything. Don't think it happened during the last oil change. My guess is it's been that way for at least a little while. Block is getting lots of work done MPR Racing Engines, so she's definitely getting taken care of :)

[@joshruby]

I would say the piece that broke off the spring had some smaller clips with it that went through pump.

[@rickarda9232]

No wonder the valvesprings are the first thing to go on those engines revving to 8000rpm...

[@Mr.Beastforpresident]

Rickard A Someone needs to make a ( Double rocker arm ) kit to eliminate the valve springs all together. No chance of Valve Floatation, No chance of broken Valve Springs and less cam wear. The best High RPM Valvetrain ever created.

[@austin125psnetwork]

The wear on the pistons isn't piston slap. It's called piston thrust. It's very normal.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Probably a mixture of both. Given that piston slap is caused by the piston rocking side-to-side directly wearing those services, it's definitely causing wear. But normal use will of course also cause similar wear

[@djarodupont2086]

I argee with @austin124psnetwork, at 5:35 you showed the other side of the cylinder, which has no apparent marks. If it was piston slap, the cylinder walls would more or less have the same amount off damage, on yours it seems like it only has one side damaged, indicating thrust wear. I also think the running hours and wear on the pistons with the black anti-friction coating are way to low to make any marks from slap. It’s a high revving engine with shorter stroke, they’re prone to the wear you’re showing.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Djaro Dupont hmm. This is an interesting point. There was a bit of it hit on the top side, just not nearly as much. Hopefully with the new setup we can reduce wear rates on the cylinder walls a bit.

[@austin125psnetwork]

@@honeybadgershenanigans with my father's blown alcohol small block wear on the top side is always gonna be there, but it's always worse on the thrust side of the piston.

[@austin125psnetwork]

@@mikec9112 thrust is top and bottom of the piston, not forward to backward.

[@scottieray]

Considering the amount of track time that you put on this production motor it's pretty impressive except for the oil gear pump which is a weakness. But just imagine how much of an equivalent Porsche engine would cost to rebuild..

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Agreed. These types of things can be hard to interpret because theres such a difference between casual track time, weekend warrior, and racing environments. Outside of the valve spring and OPG, this engine still had tons of life left.

[@scottieray]

@@honeybadgershenanigans People forget these are highly tuned straight from Ford. This was never meant to really be a "daily driver" even it is capable of that. I have a 2017 GT with 6-Speed and am really impressed with the 'lowly' Coyote. The Voodoo is something special.

[@JustinAEgan]

Just a reminder...as far as it goes "production motor it's pretty impressive"...is not exactly true? All GT350 engines, according to Ford, are hand assembled, signed - traceable back to "a specific person/team". Names etched on the fuel rails and Shock tower connector. www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/who-is-your-gt350s-fpc-voodoo-engine-builder.37029/

[@njfinests]

Looks like an oil follow problem. Not enough oil going to vital parts!!! A better oil is suggested & a better oil flow pump

[@gothamems5628]

Fantastic video!

[@phazongoast]

this is very informative for me when i decide to get mine. i dont think ill use it for what its intended to do, ill baby mine since the focus is the track bitch. but this is nice to see that with full abuse the damage is minimal and manageable

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

For sure. For a low production engine, it's doing well with the abuse. However, I imagine some folks will want to look into the Gen 2 updates as they're cutting down on oil consumption

[@NiiCo415]

Are those iron mains?

[@will0510]

How bout some pics of the intake manifold due to direct injection with carbon build up. Itll be nice to see how bad it is. Thanks for the vid

[@177SCmaro]

I believe these engines use both port and direct injection partly for that reason.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@@177SCmaro The Voodoo is port injected only. Intake manifold is clean and the back of the intake valves looked great - nice and clean. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any pics of them

[@177SCmaro]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Maybe they're going to go direct later on then, like they did with the coyote.

[@will0510]

Honey Badger WOW no build up!! Thats incredible. Did you install oil separators?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yep. I ran the FP separators. Going to be running a Peterson breather for the next build

[@bm717252]

What what cause of the engine failure?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

No engine failure. Was running fine when I took apart. As mentioned in the video, I did a rebuild due to finding a chipped valve spring and the track miles.

[@kaloyanbg2799]

Just asking to be sure it 5.2 l v8 90 degree engine

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

This is 5.2 with flat plane crank out of a 2017 GT350. At the time, it was completely stock.

[@Pistol755]

That seems to be a gen 1 block?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yep

[@Pistol755]

@@honeybadgershenanigans Ok yeah I’ve recently had a gen3 voodoo block built with my 2013 mustang gt heads, crank and timing components

[@tom91722]

What oil did you run?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I ran the OEM Motocraft. Will be running Amsoil after the refresh

[@FlatPlaneCranky]

Also look at Driven Racing Oil.....I just purchased 12 quarts, and then using an Amsoil Oil filter for my 2017 whipple charged Mustang GT. The oil that I would consider from Amsoil is the High zinc Dominator 15w-50 oil..... which is the head to head from Driven Racing Oil.....thank you for sharing this video!! @@honeybadgershenanigans

[@alanhernandez1631]

Is that motor drysumped?

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Nope. GT500 pan/pickup and oil pump

[@wkjeeping9053]

I hope you rebuilt the motor anyways and you did sweet

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yessir. Been a monster since. Been having a blast with it all year

[@timmayer8723]

12,000 miles of track racing??? You now are the proud owner of a cast aluminum boat anchor.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

nope. She's been running strong for the last 9 months. Tons of life left

[@RSDX99]

12,000 track miles is a lot of abuse. I would be happy with the results you found in my track day car. IMO that's about equal to 150,000 or more street miles.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Only complaints from me is that you can't hone the block (because of the spray in coating) and that a valve spring broke. But we're fixing both of those going forward. Other than that, I'm happy with it!

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

@ darton sleeves are going in as we speak

[@rickely2208]

Have u thought or is there any lighter cranks Ava for this car

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

I haven't looked into it. No one from what I've seen has done much development in that area. Didn't want to be the first 😁

[@austin125psnetwork]

I'd put a system 1 remote oil filter. They really are the bees knees. You never have to buy another filter (you just clean the element) and you can check for shavings anytime you want.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Got one in last weekend along with my accusump accumulator

[@sachellebabbar9005]

Always be suspicious of someone that makes you cringe with the phrase "bees knees".

[@wattsenough]

Excellent tear-down video. But in my spare time going forward, I would be watching KZbin videos or grabbing a burger.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

there's plenty of that :)

[@hdz12ez]

Casting flash maybe? That would be small enough to get ground into dust and come out with the oil when changed. No way it was that piece of spring. That looked pretty large on camera.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

This is my guess as well. Some folks have hypothesized that it could be a part of the spring (separate from the part I showed on camera), but the break is pretty clean. I'd bet on flashing. But who knows

[@dwizzleusa4202]

Just use a high grade full synthetic change oil after every track use so many novice racers neglect this most important thing is keep fresh oil in any motor that is used at tracks especially the voodoo with 8200 rpm red line.. you be amazed at how many people don't change oil more often.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

For sure. This car got an oil change every 6-8 hours of run time. I know guys that have driven 3k miles, run a track day and then keep driving until the oil change light comes on 😬😬

[@paulsawicki7015]

Great video thank you for the info.

[@matthewcalifana488]

Liter H beam con rods ? Do Not sacrafice Strench for lite .

[@2VintageRacer2]

Thanks for your good tech. Well done.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

most welcome! thanks for watching!

[@morjo02]

did Ford warrant the engine ??

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

If you mean before I tore it all apart, they would have. But nothing had technically failed yet. I tore into it add a billet OPG and it's snowballed from there.

[@Mr.Beastforpresident]

Someone needs to make a ( Double rocker arm ) kit to eliminate the valve springs all together. No chance of Valve Floatation, No chance of broken Valve Springs and less cam wear. The best High RPM Valvetrain ever created.

[@hpkntnw]

Since it’s fully torn down you might as well do a set of rods and pistons. Maybe something a bit more light weight a Carrillo rods mahle pistons. Not cheap but with the wear you have on those pistons it’s only going to get worse if you slap them back in as the coating is worn off them. Not only will it be more reliable it will be even more rev happy if you take some weight out of those components.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

That's the plan. Putting in custom diamond pistons and billet rods. Total weight will be a tad lighter, but much stronger!

[@duanemari11]

Bad luck on the harness and valve spring but, overall everything looks pretty decent. My guess would be without the valve spring issue the lifecycle could double? What are your thoughts on Castol? I've been running Castrol Edge 5w50 since my first oil change. Noticed a good amount of tracked 350's running it and silk screen all over at Ford Racing School.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yep. Bearings could show some better wear, but they're not really anything to concerned about. I would most definitely recommend keeping an eye on the valve springs (or keep RPMs a bit lower). I know Castrol is good stuff. I plan to run Amsoil in the refreshed engine and see if it shows less breakdown.

[@rodneytatman449]

What you are seeing in the cylinder bores is light scuffing, not scoring. Which isn't unusual given the use of the engine. Also the wear you are showing on the skirts is entirely normal for a short skirt piston. The coating used is meant to wear away to avoid metal-metal contact.

[@3star2nr]

Thats actually pretty damn good for a track only car

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Yeah. Outside of the valve spring, it was perfect. Lots of folks don't realize what the difference is between track miles and street miles.

[@toddkennedy3929]

honestly what do you expect after 12,000!!! TRACK MILES that is insane

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

lots of keyboard warriors :)

[@joeyjojojr.shabadoo915]

Those are some scary looking cam journals. I have torn apart Rb26's out of Skyline GTR's that have suffered far more valvetrain abuse than a V-Motor and all cam journals look brand new. We had to fight too much oil in the head in RB's but it looks like Ford is starving the heads for oil and creating a ton of heat in the valvetrain and breaking springs and even cam caps on other's builds.

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Hopefully V2 of this motor handles the abuse better!

[@joeyjojojr.shabadoo915]

@@honeybadgershenanigans I am by no means a DOHC Ford Guy and as I said above, my DOHC experience is mainly Turbo Inline 6's, but from what you have learned about your own motor and from what others have been saying that have experienced similar valvetrain problems with the Voodoo and their GT350's, can this be something as simple as an oiling issue ? OR, has Ford sent out a bunch of valve springs and camshafts/caps that are made from materials that are better suited to their sub-6500 RPM cross-plane crankshaft counterparts and made the silly mistake of assuming that 8500 RPM wasn't going to be a problem ?

[@joeyjojojr.shabadoo915]

@@honeybadgershenanigans It's also quite sad to see that Ford didn't opt to Dry Sump the Voodoo, considering the RPM range. My fanboi leanings aside, if Chevy could find it within themselves to Dry Sump the LS7 (a pushrod motor), if for nothing more than ground clearance, Ford should have found it in their hearts to do the same for the GT350 and increase the capacity and volume to solve a number of potential problems considering the marketing and heritage of the car in question.

[@angelobovara317]

Love this stuff. Liked

[@christopherjurkiewicz3903]

I think Diamond pistons are a mistake.....you should go with Mahle Motorsport and OE rings along with DLC pins

[@honeybadgershenanigans]

Motor has been together for about 6 months now with the diamond pistons. Been punishing it all summer long at the track and it's been great. We'll re-evaluate when it is time to do a refresh, but so far, so good.

[@TechnikMeister2]

It needs a complete rebuild, the main bearing caps have been overheated so they will need replacing. The crank will need a 20 thou grind. All the bearings are shot. It was close to welding the big end caps to the crank. So the rods will also need replacing. Basically its fucked. Throw it all away and put in a 427 Ford Motorsport Windsor crate motor and have some reliable fun.