Solarez UV Resin vs Polyurethane - Which Is Better?

I compare using a UV resin to polyurethane. The resin is called I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer by Solarez, a brand owned by Wahoo International. The resin cures using UV rays from the sun or a UV light. I show you how to use the Solarez compared to how to use polyurethane. I also give you my opinion as to which one might be best
NOTE- I recommend using a respirator when working with these type products. I left my respirator at my daughters house, so I didn’t have it at the time I made this video.

[@kakuize]

Hi, great video. I make cast stone from wooden moulds. I basically pour concrete into a wooden mould to get the desired shape. 1 mould is capable of 10-15 castings using traditional varnish. I varnish moulds to protect wooden mould from the concrete. However, it takes about a day for it to cure. Do you think if I use Solarez that might reduce the time in varnishing ?

[@Ray_Here]

I think it should work. When you apply the solarez, it is a thin liquid so you would have to apply thin coats so it doesn’t pool in the bottom of the bowl. It should cure very quickly though so it shouldn’t take long. It may dry with a slight orange peel effect. I have been told that multiple coats reduces that effect. The other thing is that Solarez is expensive, but it goes a long way. If you try it, please let me know how it works.

[@kakuize]

@@Ray_Here Thanks a lot. I'll let you know.

[@geolisadrag-racing2349]

yes, i have used a solarez product in a similar fashion.. Check out their website, they have more than one product. Also, with this product, for coating your moulds, or other use on wood; be careful not to over sand. Leave a little rough for better adhesion and just do extra coats to get as smooth as you'd like your moulds to be. i sand to 120, vacuum the surface, and then go go over it with a card scraper. i then applied the 1st coat with a white scotch brite pad in a circular motion. If you over sand, some people say the dust can fill the pores, preventing adhesion. Personally, I think sanding with to high a grit tends to almost burnish pine, making the surface too slick for good adhesion. Good Luck~ ♿Lisa🔨

[@tannertucker22]

I have spoken to the inventors severals times. They are very good guys. I also play the guitar coincidently. I am a wood turner. I haven’t used that specific solorez product, but I did buy 4 others or one or two that they developed for me. I haven’t found the other products to cure well when applied in thin coats. Apparently this is due to oxygen inhibition retarding the curing process. If I cover the wet finish with plastic wrap the solarez would cure as hard as a rock - limiting the exposure to oxygen. This practice however was not practical for round cylindrical forms. Maybe that is what this newe product is supposed to overcome.

[@Ray_Here]

Interesting. Thanks Tanner!

[@michaelhchannel7412]

Although sunlight is free, you may want to consider purchasing a portable UV light if you continue using Solarez UV Resin. You can work day and night.

[@Ray_Here]

Agree! I’m just not sure I’m going to use the Solarez that often. Just finished a guitar neck with Boiled linseed oil. Love the simple stuff!!

[@tannertucker22]

Thank you. Was it rock hard cure/solid or did it take a gummy fingerprint? Thank you.

[@Ray_Here]

Rock hard!

[@markwilson2013]

Hi , do you know how hard the resin is please when cured? Do you also know if it is UV stable and non yellowing?

[@Ray_Here]

It cures very hard. I will give you two suggestions. Go to a channel called Highline Guitars. He has a few comparison videos that you may be interested in. You should probably contact the Solarez folks about the UV stability.

[@markwilson2013]

Thank you for getting back to me, your videos are very good, thanks again

[@lkj974]

If you level sand after every coat you will make slow progress. Just knock the tops of the bumps down with light scuff sanding. Wait til you have put several coats on before level sanding. Do the scuff sanding by hand.

[@Ray_Here]

Thanks for the tip! I’m assuming you mean when using the Solarez. I’m working on a guitar now and will give it a try. How many coats do you recommend?

[@lkj974]

Sorry I didn’t reply sooner. I should qualify: I know a bit about instrument finishing and finishing in general, but I am not an expert. I have worked with polyurethane, water and solvent based, sprayed lacquer, shellac: brushed on and french polish. Tru oil on guitar necks. Zpoxy: a really good and underutilized product. My sprayed lacquer (water based) was in the context of a 3 mo guitar building class. The teacher was an experienced luthier who worked at L’Arrivee for many years in the finishing department. That was when I found out that sanding between coats is very light. His method was to use 600 grit wet dry sand paper and use it dry. Scuff sanding about an hour or two after spraying each coat, a little more after the guitar had sat overnight and the lacquer was harder. The whole process of scuff sanding was done in a few minutes, then back to the spraying booth. I know I am talking about a different material here and different finishes would need a somewhat different schedule but I believe the general process is the same for any finish that is laid on is many thin layers. It certainly applies to polyurethane. I had applied polyurethane finishes several times before attending that class and did it much the same way as you did it, except I did not use a power sander. I did use 220 grit and hand sanding. I got there in the end but I felt like it was incredibly inefficient and I wondered if I was going about the sanding properly. After taking that class I would say I was not. The thing is, as you apply successive layers small bumps will get buried by subsequent layers especially if you knock the tops off when scuff sanding. If you try to level them after each coat you will take down everything in the local area and very likely burn through the finish because it is still very thin at that point. I don’t think any finisher would use a power sander and 220 for scuff sanding: much too aggressive! And they would stay away from edges and corners because they will burn through 10 times faster than flatter areas. I don’t know if you are familiar with the youtube channel “highline guitars”. He has many videos specifically about Solarez (evidently there are 2 topcoat products, with different properties) and he talks about both. Lots and lots of excellent information on Solarez and finishing in general. He really seems to know his stuff and he explains things very well. If you haven’t seen his videos I think you will find them really helpful.

[@Ray_Here]

Thanks for your very detailed response! I am familiar with Highline Guitars. He is a great resource. That where I learned about Solarez. It caught my attention because I don’t do spray finishes. Although I’m going to spray pain a guitar. I’m going to attempt to do that with spray cans. I’ll use the Solarez over the paint. I enjoy the learning process and trying new things. Thanks again for your great response!

[@lkj974]

@@Ray_Here I am considering trying solarez over paint on the back and sides of a baritone uke I am building. I will be interested to know how that goes for you. I have developed a severe allergy to solvents of almost any kind so that makes spraying a finish very risky for me. It’s too bad, I do think brushing a finish aggravates the problems of unlevelness building up as you apply coats. But that is the hand I’ve been dealt. I have been working my way through every video Highline has done mentioning Solarez and there is good information in all of them. About other finishes as well.

[@blackbirdpie217]

Maybe a third coat of solarez would yield a look more comparable to the three coats of PU you put on the other piece??

[@Ray_Here]

Perhaps it would. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@DanielRodriguez-eh1qd]

Can you use the us resin over painted surfaces?

[@Ray_Here]

My understanding is that you can but I haven’t tried it yet.

[@xenod1066]

How do the costs compare?

[@Ray_Here]

A pint of Solarez is about $50 vs a quart of Poly which is about $12.

[@hamjohn8737]

Where is the guitar?

[@Ray_Here]

Great question. I completed the kit and the finish was fine but there was no way I could get it to stay in tune. I tried everything. I finally called the vendor who said they weren’t happy with what they were receiving from the factory so they sent me one from a different factory. I fret leveled, polished and finished the neck and that’s as far as I’ve gotten. I let my granddaughter bang on the first one so she stays away from my other guitars.

[@drewjohnson4673]

Your family must be glad you are not paid by the piece.

[@Ray_Here]

Not sure what you mean. My purpose is to try different things and learn. I never build anything for anyone for money, though I get offers to do so. If I did, you would be dead on and my income per hour would be a disaster!! Thanks for watching!