Spanish 110 shimming the Salisbury differential and calculating shims

Bearing dimensions
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[@gazzafloss]

As me old Dad always taught me "work smarter not harder", having some special tools to do the fiddly jobs makes life a lot easier Mike, especially when you can use them multiple times. Nice work...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Indeed!

[@888johnmac]

those dummy bearings were a stroke of genius .. handy to keep aside for a future axle rebuild

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Here are the dimensions cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/387a-382-s#Dimensions

[@GregPalmer2]

Nice job young man,when l did mine l bought two sets of bearing,grind the inside of one set to get the shims right. The old sets both Salisbury and rover front were no good,because l put in Elockers in front and rear diffs. Front was a dream,Salisbury was a nightmare taking it in and out on axle stands,being a senior citizen doesn't help the cause,it's done over 5000km now and all seems good and no clonks.😁😁😁

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Right on!

[@jameshargan2786]

Thanks Mike - helpful as always. I have been winding myself up to tackle this on my 110, and you have made it look a lot more accessible than the workshop manual does. Making Land Rover owner/mechanics better, one at a time. 👍🏼

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Great to hear!

[@craig_chaznibond452]

Brilliant. Working sitting down is always better!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

An old friend said to me many years ago, if you have to take your coat off to do a job, you are in the wrong job!

[@nickboylen6873]

There is a procedure detailing how much shimming is needed on one side depending on backlash to save trial and error. It should allow setting the shims just once. I’ll try to find it for you.

[@nickboylen6873]

I can’t find the manual I was looking for, but the Salisbury manuals say moving the ring gear 10thou closer to the pinion axis reduces backlash by 7 thou. So, with the preload already set and the pinion set at correct depth, you should be able to measure the preload, take 10 thou off the total backlash as required, then divide the remainder by 7 and that tells you how many tens of thou you need to add to the back side shims. In your case, you had 15thou, need 10, so had to reduce by 5thou. That would want about 8thou of shims moved from the right bearing to the left. So, the overall rebuild procedure is to fit the diff centre with bearings and no shims to the empty (no pinion) casing and check for endfloat as you showed, then add 5thou preload. That is the total centre shim pack thickness. Remove the centre, fit the pinion at the correct depth, then refit the centre with all the shims on the right (gear) side of the centre. Check the backlash. Subtract the require lash from the actual, divide by 7, then multiply that answer by 10 and that is how much you need to shift to the other side. Then check the backlash and contact pattern. No trial and error, should be much easier, especially with those dummy bearings or a set of reasonable old bearings honed to slip on and off easily. Those Britpart shims are terrible, but no surprise. The Indian Navy have a big aircraft carrier project and a big submarine project underway. With engineering like that, they may end up one and the same!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks - we did think of using old bearings but if you do not have a dedicated puller such as below www.amazon.ca/OTC-4520-Differential-Bearing-Puller/dp/B0015PMZN4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=otc+4520+differential+side+bearing+puller&qid=1632058944&sr=8-1 You almost destroy the bearings getting them off - and who would use old, worn bearings to set up a diff? As these are Dana 60 diffs I will not source shims in the US or local parts shop - cheaper and probably more accurate!

[@10beerman]

@@BritannicaRestorations I like the puller with the gismo to stop the "legs opening"... ooo-errrr missis.

[@garyborchert61]

Really good information on that shimmering stuff I have 2 differentials to fix as spare, I may evan have a clue now after watching your skills , nice 👌thanks Mike.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad it was helpful!

[@springy-2112]

It's good that you have JP but I hope he charges more for the general public . Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes he has some good contract jobs - and I always make sure my jobs are simple

[@grahameroberts8109]

Great work and advice Mike. Clever to have the faux bearings made. Cheers 👍🏻🙏🏽😷🦘

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad to help

[@dannydavis1964]

Good video a lot of information thanks😁👍

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No problem 👍

[@MrNineCherries]

oh my goodness, i can only dream of having that little play on my axle. 👍🏻 any like you described it, beauutifulll. 😎

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you like it!

[@davepearce6359]

Brilliant again. Thanks Mike. 😉👍🏻

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@denisscott3073]

Hi Mike 👍just saying thanks again for sharing this video update and information 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🚌🚌🚌

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No problem 👍

[@rickpalmer6143]

Off to my local precision machine shop this week!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Here are the dimentions cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/387a-382-s#Dimensions

[@rickpalmer6143]

Thanks E-mailed them this morning

[@peterjohnson2245]

When I did mine I removed the bearing cage, then used a tig to put heat into the bearing so they just came off with no damage to the shims. I came to the same conclusion, just use the same shims and it will all be good. That was 3yrs ago... I hope to have it on the road by Christmas... Got the alpine lights in the other week, the rear door went on today and the rear lights. Working my way forwards as best as I can but it is often 3 steps back because of those top quality parts we can get and rely on :(.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I know!

[@peterjohnson2245]

Tried to fit a set of wipac lights as i was fed up with the non brand ones falling to bits as they dont use UV stable plastic. 1 out of 3 screw holes line up and the drain in the rubber is at 9 oclock rather than 6, then round the moulding was so rubbish that the cant retain bulbs, they pop out. I dont want the LED kits and rebuilt the tub for the original light hole size not the larger ones. Still might go down the route of the metal MOD lights if I can complete the set.

[@10beerman]

I had a pack of shims for an LT230 from Ashcrofts that were all over the place. Once you measure them and you know the actual size of the shim the jobs easy.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yeap!

[@MikeRatcliffe24]

You may be just the gent to answer a question such as this, in some land-rover manual's it says to "Consult the case markings and bearing cap markings to put the correct cap on each side" or something similar, whilst giving a very vague diagram. Any tips on where to find the case markings? ie @9:40 in the video the cap marking is "7 vertical" on the case it will be under the rusty spot 2" to the right of the generic "L1" stamping that looks like a horizontal 7 just to confuse us.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Best to mark the caps before removing! I would clamp them to the casing and feel with your fingers and make sure there is no overlap - the originals would have been machined in pairs There is no hard and fast way of finding out apart from feeling

[@jameskerr5756]

Great job Mike. It's such a 'shim' you're not over here in Carlisle, Cumbria. I could use your expertise greatly. Got an LT85 that you need ear defenders for when in use, as well as many many other things needing attention. 🥴

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks 👍

[@adriancrabones5011]

Hi , this is great info , I’m gonna be attempting to do this myself ( never done it before 😅) I get the gist of what needs to be done I think 🤔, but one question , what is the purpose of the casing clamp ? I know it widens the casing to make it easier to pop the diff out but is it necessary for setting the shims , ie releasing it would make the pressure from the side greater , is that like a preload on the bearings ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I am working on an updated series of diff repairs and shimming at the moment part 2 will be up later today IF you are replacing the bearings with new Timkin, then the old shims should be correct - do not mix sides! If the bearings are worn, then the diff can come out easy, but as there should be a 5 thou preload on them, you need to stretch the casing - hammering bearings in is not an option!

[@hyhgtsssassfilj]

I think I’ve reached my limit of understanding what you’re talking about. 😁 Going to have to watch a few times as I got lost after the shims to stop the side to side movement. I don’t think I would attempt this when I get my own LR. I’ll just hand it over to some expert and hand over the dosh. 😂

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yeap, it is not a beginners job!

[@stephenellis6651]

Mike, who manufacturers the anti seize you use? Would copper slip do the same job? Kind regards, Stephen

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes

[@bigm383]

Presactly!

[@mickpospiech1363]

That's a coincidence. I've just come in from the shed after trying to find the cause of the whining underneath my 110. Thought it was rear output bearing of trans box but now think it could be diff. Growls a bit. Also doesn't always turn when I spin either wheel? Look forward to you rebuilding the salisbury axle.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The rebuild will be a winter project (not long now lol!) Mike

[@gregorydobson4307]

Cheers for another interesting video, what are your thoughts on replacing worn planet gears on the Salisbury diffs.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I find it is the shims that get worn - the gears are pretty good

[@SeriousSchitt]

Hi Mike, Is a Salisbury diff and a Dana 60 diff one and the same, are they? Thanks

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes to a degree - As far as I know the Dana 60 had a different pinion setup

[@ViDiaz]

Hello Mike, just a simple question to make, but maybe not so easy to answer if you had never the case... where is the Salisbury weakest point? I refer only about the diff mechanism, not axles, cases, etc, only crown, satellites, planetaries... The thing is a friend with a 200Tdi Defender 110 had a problem the other day, I saw on his Salisbury diff, a hole in the middle of the cover/pan, like something went from the inside to outside, that broken thing made like a "window" just in the middle and the owner never realized until I smelled gear oil when I was close to his Defender... He checked the oil level, was not so low, almost to good level, he applied some cold weld stuff to cover the hole but some days later the diff broke, don't know what, but to keep driving he had to dismantle the prop shaft and the two axles and engage the diff lock to go home again... A broken pinion gear or so?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good question to which I have no answer! I have seen a lot of clunky diffs, but not one that has been destroyed apart from lack of lubrication Maybe someone has a comment to this question?

[@gshort4707]

Makes me wonder how they set these up in the factory. Do they use a simliar tool to the one JP made and have teams of people with dial gauges? Can't think how something like that could be automated but maybe I'm wrong. I had the same problem with some swivel shims I bought. The 3 thou ones were the same size as the 5 thou. Britpart again. Graham

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not sure how they do them at the factory, but they would have to do it fast - I cannot see them trial fitting bearings and then removing them again

[@tonypacke6954]

Over in UKistan Brit part are £1.30 for 10 x .005" and genuine Land Rover are £9.30 for 5 x .005". I would hope the LR ones do actually measure to .005".

[@BritannicaRestorations]

We can get the shims pretty cheap here in North America land www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-j8129242

[@gregdyar6451]

But a patient on those dummy bearings mike... or sell them to britpart.. What sort of dial gauge is that one your using. Are you better off getting the original shims than using bit part ones or do you just measure before use thanks.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I learned my lesson on this as to not trust what the part 'says' it is, and they do require individual measurements dial gauge www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373667554630?hash=item5700526546:g:SVYAAOSwoxtgllQ- Stand www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08QJKLV6J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I like this mag mount as it has a bloody good magnet and a small footprint rather than the big square block as is quite common

[@tristanhagerty2006]

Mike sorry I’m a little late to the party, but I’ve got a question about your famous crown rustproofing. I’ve just stripped all the paint of my galvanised side trim, but I’m sure if removed some of the galvanised plate itself so it will rust in time. Can I use crown on it to “seal it” Thanks Tristan

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes I think it would work - depends on what trim and how abused it gets

[@tristanhagerty2006]

@@BritannicaRestorations it’s just standard galvy side trim. But I think I’ve dug beyond the galvy so ide love to protect it somehow from rust. Great vid as always

[@vincentpoole7588]

Mike. Buying aftermarket Britpart items, is like me trusting a CAN$5 thermostat ? Save the old Rangie LSE used front axle, so can be coated with "ICT R-10" sir ! V.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I try to buy OEM where possible - but sometimes Britpart is the only alternative LR shims come in packs of 10 at £47 a pack! So that would be over £200 for a set of 4 sizes !

[@upscaleshack]

People who set up a lot of Dana axles use a set of old bearings bored slightly larger so they're no longer a press fit. Called setup bearings. Same concept as the dummy bearings you made. Question: Would shims from a Dana 60 work? They are very cheap in the states, as the Dana axles are everywhere and you can find them on Amazon.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes, I have seen that system used, but why use old worn bearings? You could be a bit out with the shimming - so the best way would be to use new bearings and hone them out - it is a 0.002" press fit on the diff so quite a bit to hone out on hardened steel - hence the dummy bearings

[@upscaleshack]

@@BritannicaRestorations Couple of reasons. One is cost, the old bearings are free. But second is access to a machinist. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a JP, sadly (I miss the days when every small town had a competent blacksmith/machinist). Your way is clearly more precise for someone doing it repeatedly.

[@bigm383]

You’re lucky to have a good machinist nearby…it seems to be a dying art.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Indeed it is! And someone who is interested in my projects!

[@bigm383]

@@BritannicaRestorations You always present him as a good bloke who’s interested in your jobs. When I was a young bloke there was a machinist in every suburb. I didn’t really know what I was doing, nor did I have the equipment to assess things so I used to take things like brake discs to the machinist for a quick skim. It was still cheaper than paying a mechanic!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

People ask me why I have no lathe, but where do you stop? Then you need a miller, surface grinder, honing machine AND all the tooling! JP tells me the price of some of the chucks and special tools needed and it is eye watering!! Not to mention the skill set needed to use all these machines! Better to give jobs to some skilled and set up - but as you say - getting few and far between now

[@bigm383]

@@BritannicaRestorations Yes, that’s equivalent to another garage space worth of tools. Plus they’re pretty dangerous.

[@Defender110SLO]

Mike o whay do you live so farrrr and away. I have 2 difs to fix. Cheers King Mike 🥃

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Pop them in the post lol!

[@Defender110SLO]

@@BritannicaRestorationsIn my opinion, it would be cheaper if I put them in a suitcase and bring them myself. LoL

[@srpacific]

Why is your diff spreader mounted completely the wrong way

[@BritannicaRestorations]

There are 2 styles

[@THEGAMING_TANKER]

I have never managed to remove the bearings without damaging the shims.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The carrier for the Diff is a bad design - you cannot get a regular bearing puller under the bearing However there is a recent design that does the job but it is not cheap www.amazon.ca/GXL-Carrier-Pinion-Bearing-Clamshell/dp/B01N6SZ742 When I get the other axle in the shop I may buy one to give it a go

[@dariuszrad4559]

Mike możesz włączyć napisy po polsku dziękuję za odpowiedź pozdrawiam serdecznie.