Steering Rack and Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement Tutorial

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
This video shows in detail how to replace your steering rack bushings and front sway bar bushings on a 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner. This job also applies to 1st Generation Toyota Tacoma's as they share the same steering rack specifications. The technique we use could also translate to other vehicles. We used Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings to replace the OEM steering rack bushings and we used Prothane polyurethane bushings to replace the OEM front sway bar and end link bushings.
*PARTS*
*Steering Rack Bushings
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*Here's another option for the steering rack bushings which is supposedly a higher quality than the Energy Suspension bushings. They are made by Whiteline: amzn.to/3PFidQm
*Sway Bar Bushings -
Prothane 18-1115 (These will work for 3rd Gen 4runners - 4runners use a 26mm bushing)
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Prothane #8.5118G (These will work for 1st Gen Tacomas - Tacomas use a 27mm bushing)
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*Clean Streak Degreaser
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*Brake Cleaner (Option to Clean Streak)
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*Mission Automotive Silicone Paste
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*Cotter Pin Set
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HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
In case you wanted to own your own balljoint press, this is the one I own and it works well. amzn.to/2P7gK9E
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*1/2" Regular Impact Extension Set
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*1/2” Drive Impact Swivel
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*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
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*1/2" Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*OTC Front End Service Kit
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*6 Ton Jack Stands
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*1/2" Breaker Bar
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*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
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*Ratchet Straps
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*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

In the video, we show some tools we rented from O'Reilly Auto Parts. We didn't end up using any of the adapters from the Honda kit so don't bother renting that one when you're ready to do the job.

[@damacknificent151]

Hi Timmy, if I have a slight movement from the rack and pinion, can this cause. Shimie or slight vibration in the front end going over 55 mph?

[@soundbites1152]

@@damacknificent151 If your steering wheel is shaking, then that's probably wheel balance issues and/or worn steering rack bushings.

[@spiedr0722]

Just got home from doing this job and LBJ’s on my wife’s 97 4Runner and just wanted to say thank you for helping me gain back the confidence to work on our cars.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hell yeah bro! That’s what we like to hear! Glad our video(s) were able to help you be successful! - Sean

[@helghit]

I love that every piece of maintenance or upgrade to my 4runner has led me to watching these videos, I've done everything from the tundra brake upgrade to these rack bushings with little to no trouble because of your attention to detail of these DIY's. Thanks man

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Hassan, great to hear you've made good use out of a lot of our videos. We love hearing this. Thanks for taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@Tisthenuke]

Just finished doing this with no trouble at all thanks to you Tim. All of your videos have incredible detail. Thanks for taking the time to make all of these videos

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great to hear you were able to knock this job out with the help of our video. You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment and share this with us.

[@RobZtaco]

Another amazing video! Finally had some time for much needed maintenance due to a leaky radiator and used your videos to replace inner and outer tie rods, LBJs, JBA UCAs, my ARB bumper, the steering rack bushings and the steering rack guide. You and Sean are a HUGE assest to our community! Thank you for the good work Tim!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Rob. Good to hear you've been helped by many of our videos. Great job doing all that. You saved boat loads of money doing it on your own rather than taking it to a shop. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@mattg520]

@@TimmyTheToolman what do the end links torque to?

[@marksimcoe4105]

Replaced my steering rack bushings this weekend with Whiteline. I would not have attempted this if I had not seen this video. Thanks so much for all of the videos. By the time I get finished replacing all the worn bushings and suspension components covered in your videos I'll have a completely rebuilt suspension! Also, I love the applause when the bushings pop out. Very cool.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mark, great to hear our video inspired you to tackle this job. You're very welcome and good luck with all the other work you have planned for your rig. Thanks for taking the time to comment and Happy Wrenching! Sean will appreciate your comment about the applause. He's the editing genius that adds all the special effects to our videos.

[@toddestelle1678]

Timmy, Thank you so much for making this video. I just replaced my rack and this was extremely helpful. I especially liked the suggestion to use the winch straps in order to pull the rack backward to access those stupid hose fittings. But anyway please know that your time and efforts to make this video were a huge help and blessing. Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Todd. We're glad you found the video so helpful and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@flying4thrills]

Just did this to my ‘97 with 378k miles. Once again you were my go to source for how to wrench on the 4Runner! Thanks as always Tim!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Frank and good job getting it done.

[@JesseGunzo]

Ever since I got my 98 4runner, I've been watching your videos. Been a lot of help. Thanks for making them.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear and you're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@ryanteegarden4099]

Most professional vehicle repair video I have ever seen, thank you very much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment Ryan. Sean and I are trying to put out very informative videos to limit any guesswork on how to get a certain repair or modification done. We're basically trying to be a one stop shop for people so they don't have to look elsewhere to get all the information they need to be successful. This is why we are including pages out of the Factory Service Manual, noting torque specs, tools needed, and part numbers so all the information is right there.

[@johne.powell2463]

Doing this job on my 98 4Runner right now. Great write up and I appreciate the detail on the rental tools.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks John. Glad you like the video and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@itsquiteright]

Thank you for a very informative video. I was in the middle of this job and couldn't get the driver side bushing off of what I thought was a stud. Most if not all of the info I researched did not mention to take that bolt out, but to simply slide the rack off. My bolt was seized in there, and didn't appear to be removable. Went back and found this video with that key info. Finally got it out and the job went much smoother. Thank you so much for saving my rear. I guess it is time for me to get a service manual.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mike, yeah, the FSM is a very helpful reference to have. Search online and you'll be able to find a set. I looked for a while and bought the 2 volume set for my 2000 rig for $300. I thought that was pretty pricey, but at the time, those were the prices I was seeing for them. Hopefully you can find a set for much less. Glad our video was helpful to you. Take a look at the other videos we've made on my channel. You might find some other videos that could help you out.

[@thepitpatrol]

Hey Tim, just got through doing this to my '01 with 367,000. Just wanted to say thank you so much for taking the time to do these videos. You have literally saved me hours of labor because of being able look ahead at your videos. Don't know if these videos are monetized, but if they are I hope your making a lot off of them. They are certainly worth it. Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Shane. Great to hear our video helped you out. Yes, our channel is monetized so we are making some money for our efforts. Thanks for commenting. We appreciate it.

[@Redrobinstreet]

I did this job following your instructions and Thank You! I performed it on my 01 Tacoma 5vz-fe Ex cab. The only difference was the 19mm bolts on the steering rack passenger side were the other way with the bolt on bottom and screw on top. I did rent the ball joint and tie rod remover which are a MUST for this job. Definitely remove the tie rod for you skeptics out there. I did end up just using a large C clamp from Home Depot I had in the garage instead of the one in the kit. The HD C clamp is MUCH lighter and gives you more mobility if you don’t have an extra set of hands. But it just as easily popped the bushings out. Great detailed video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear the job went well for you Rick and our video helped out. Thanks for sharing your experience and tips for the job. Happy Wrenching!

[@mattr1365]

Love all your video's Tim. You've made working on my 3rd gen a breeze! Keep up the great work.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Matt. I reckon a DIYer type with a 3rd Gen 4runner that comes across our channel would be pretty stoked on how many videos we've made for these rigs. And, we're going to keep on making them. Happy Wrenching!

[@richardaguilar4204]

Thanks for the video Tim. I just performed this over the weekend and your step by step instructions are once again spot on. I'm now watching your CV re-boot and axel assy. installation as I noticed during the bushing work that the passenger side inner boot had started to tear and presence of grease around the area is evident. Driver side is not quite there yet but I believe that too will tear soon. Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Richard. Good to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and good luck with the CV reboot. Happy Wrenching!

[@andrewb2326]

HI Timmy, I swapped out my front sway bar bushes today. Previous owner had already done the steering rack bushes. You video was great and I followed the steps no probs. Looks great under there now with new bushes in place of the old wasted ones. Thank you very much, another successful job for me after watching you and Sean do it!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Andrew, good to hear our video helped you out. You're very welcome and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@ben2004511]

Hey Tim, know whether your getting 1k or 1millon views your helping and inspiring a lot of people. A childhood friend's father taught me about mechanics on motorcycles when I was a young teenager. I still think about all the lessons in the shop he taught me, some of those translating to life lessons. To this day I appreciate those little moments, and just the fact he sat down and took the time to teach me. Your videos, dedication, and attention to detail very much remind me of him. I appreciate what you do. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. It's people like you that help motivate us to keep making videos. Happy Wrenching and Learning!

[@EL-pz5rp]

Great Videos, I really appreciate all the time you've put into them! They've helped tremendously in fixing up my ol' '99 4Runner.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Erik, it's great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and letting us know.

[@johnschaefer4129]

thanks for another great, super detailed repair video. i had already done the sway bar and end links, and was able to to the rack bushings without taking down the tie rod or line. HUGE difference in ride and handling!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome and Good job!

[@PLEASE111111113]

Your videos are the go to resource, very well shot and narrated. Thank you, Timmy!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!

[@scubbarookie]

Thank you Tim and Sean. This video really helped out with the steering rack bushings! I also went with Energy Suspension, but went low-key black instead. This must have been an earlier video, because you guys rented the tools. I'm really glad to see the progression of Toyota Time... It's so great! 👍🚀

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Glad our video helped you get the job done. Yep, this was one of our first videos we filmed together. I have a whole lot more tools at my disposal now.

[@scuzzlebutt1980]

just wanted to say thank you and really appreciate the specs and all.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Thank you so much for answering. Really understand it now, I'll have to check mine, ill prob end up buying the same brand as you. Have a great night!

[@sierracascadebonsai]

Thanks for this video! Just did mine and it was very helpful. The steering is so much better now!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Brian. We're glad our video helped you out and you got good results from the repair. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@robertoberrios4681]

Very detailed video. Saved me time and $ on the installation. Thank you guys.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

+Roberto Berrios Our pleasure. Glad you found the video helpful.

[@aeok18109]

Thanks. This video is super clear in showing what needs to be done to complete the task.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ernesto Lugo You're welcome Ernesto. Good luck with the job.

[@shahsmerdis]

Great video guys! Thanks for doing this. Looking forward to more.

[@thomasligon3357]

Timmy, thanks for all the amazing videos. These are so helpful as I go through and do the maintenance on my 1st Gen Tacoma and 3rd gen 4runner. Even more impressive is the fact that you are doing these videos out of a garage packed with the clutter of life just like the rest of us. Well done sir!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment Thomas. Yeah, no huge shop with a fancy hydraulic lift for me, at least not yet. I do plan on moving from my current house, and I'm hoping to have a much larger space to work in that has a lift. I'm in my late 50's now, and I don't think I'll be wanting to be rolling around on my back on the cold concrete in my 60's and 70's. But, maybe I will. The goal is to have a property with a large outbuilding or at least enough land that I can have one built on it.

[@gregb8404]

I had to jump on here and say thank you for putting together this overly helpful video. I did everything you did and everything turned out perfect all the down to the torque specs.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Greg. Great to hear the job went well for you. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!

[@harindersaini4873]

Thanks for great video, it helped me in changing the bushings on my 1st gen tundra.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Harinder. Good to hear our video helped you out.

[@osleimonteiro5726]

Perfect, will help me a lot in the process of changing the bushings of my 4runner97 São Paulo - Brazil

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I had a high school friend who was living in Sao Paulo for a while. One day I'd like to visit Brazil and Sao Paulo will definitely be a place I'd like to check out. Good luck with the bushing replacements and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@quacktony]

great videos as always Tim. I was able to replace mine on the tacoma. the Tacomas sway bar D brackets have bolts on both ends. having that big c clamp was useful AF.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad the video helped you out Ricardo. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@geronimoagarraspito5174]

awesome video very detailed and clear. thanks guys.

[@iadgreen28]

Hi Timmy. Just fought the rack back in. That C-clamp is heavy as hell so I ended up using one of the longer steering rack bolts and the two washers and pressing in the bushings that way. Fighting that middle section back into place with new bushings is tough but once I had it clear I used ratchet straps to pinch the rack in further so I could get my bolts started. Thanks for the awesome video as always!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Saroun, glad to hear you got the job done. Sometimes things fight us but we fight back and win the war. Great job getting it done. Happy Wrenching!

[@SJsAdv]

You guys make this look sort of easy.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

With the right tools, it's not a hard job but an extra set of hands is nice. If you don't own a balljoint press or a puller you can rent them at many auto parts stores for free. Get a buddy or family member to help you and you should be able to knock it out no problem. The center perpendicular bolt is the hardest one to remove on the steering rack. The other two on the passenger and driver sides are easy to remove.

[@charliepham6889]

Thank you Timmy the Toolman very good every Video you make for the work you do is Fantastic Thanks agian

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Charlie Pham You’re welcome Charlie. We’re glad you like the video. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@nighthawkdotcom]

Very helpful video. Although I took forever to to finish “ not for the novice “, I did notice a significant improvement in steering wheel play when driving.. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out. Good job getting it done.

[@peters4144]

Super informative. Thank you.

[@christopherbrown5338]

I just did this recently. I didn't touch the tie rods. I removed the 10mm bolt on the steering shaft so it could move a little up & down. When I had the bolts removed ( I slid in from the driver side) I just gave the outward, backside of the tire a strike from my knee and out popped the rack with all the clearance I needed. I love your videos!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job.

[@kalinsheytanov5402]

Great video! Just wanted to add that it is also applicable for Land Cruiser Prado 90/95 around the same years of manufacturing. They have the same rack and front suspension.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video Kalin and thanks for sharing this info.

[@zimarokas]

Well done Timmy .great video thanks for sharing.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and we're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!

[@Hvids99]

Thanks for the tutorial Tim! I completed these tasks a few days ago and did run into one big issue when replacing the rack bushings - the nut (that is supposed to welded to the frame) for the vertical bolt was broken off and somewhat loose. This allowed the vertical bolt (and nut) to move sided to side in the frame. It looked like someone put a socket on it and broke the weld and then reinstalled it. This allowed for movement of the entire rack horizontally. My solution was to install the rack with everything snug and then tack weld the nut in one spot (so not to melt the polyurethane bushing). Then I loosed up the rack again and pulled it rearward and added additional welds to secure the nut. Millermatic 211 to the rescue. Afterwards the steering was tight and precise.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job fixing someone else's screw-up. I have to admit, though, when we were making this video, I did try to get the nut off. I didn't know it was welded, but I figured it out pretty quick and stopped cranking on it.

[@dennisranck1613]

Very thorough video. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Dennis. Glad you like the video.

[@ngkm2]

Great video thanks for taking your time on making this video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Nero. Take a look at our other videos because we've accumulated a pretty good collection so far and you might find something else that will help you out.

[@donmynack]

Thanks for this vid, glad its still out here!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. As long as the internet is around, our videos will be available.

[@johnremus]

Always helpful brotha! Didn't do my Rack bushings, but swapped out my sway bar bushings today and knew you had a video I could double check really quick for torque specs and tips.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear John. How's life in SoCal with the new job? We're actually in LA right now but heading home today. We did Venice Beach, Disneyland, Universal Studios, Catalina Island and visited a friend of mine.

[@johnremus]

@@TimmyTheToolman Sounds like that was a busy trip! Things are great for me, super busy at the job - but all good stuff

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@johnremus Good to hear.

[@michaelcbakker]

Thanks for the great vid! I replaced my bushings using this :)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Good job getting it done!

[@rigbino]

Great video, thank you for posting TIM!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome.

[@Sami-bc9iv]

Great job as usual. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You got it Sami, 🤙🏼

[@theroadcheaplytraveled4417]

Hey love the videos! Now that you have been running polyurethane a while, what do you thing? Im curious to why people are going to this verses OEM bushings? Thanks again!

[@MrMalzers]

awesome awesome awesome guide man. Many thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

My pleasure. Glad you found it helpful.

[@craigchenevert5598]

Really appreciate the videos. They are fantastic!!! My mechanic says that I need the rack guide replaced. With the wheels on the ground, I don’t sense any play in the tie rod either front to back or up and down. How do I know that I need the guide replaced? And if so do I need to replace cap nut and locking ring? Will the updated guide and spring work with the original cap nut and locking ring? Many thanks for your help!!!

[@echosierraenroute]

the metal lines feeding the tie rod by the U bracket on the passenger side are directly in my way of the 19mm bolt? i have a 98 4 runner sr5, kinda strange cuz every video ive seen those metal feed lines arent in their way but its directly in my way of backing out the top 19mm from the u bracket bushing bracket... i have to remove it...

[@kuumomi08]

Thank you timmy great video 🤙🏽

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Glad you like the video.

[@soundbites1152]

Hey Timmy, I did the steering rack and sway bar bushings and replaced end links in June of this year with ES bushing kits. The sway bar and end link bushings are fine. I've done this a few times on my 2000 4Runner since it likes to eat parts, apparently. This time around, the "D" shaped bushing that goes on the passenger side of the steering rack was poorly manufactured and there is considerable slop allowing the rack to move up and down when turning the steering wheel. It's not as bad as the OEM rubber bushings, but I shouldn't be seeing this much movement, either. I found a few other folks posting on the various forums with the same issue as me and the ES kit. I purchased a Whiteline steering rack bushing kit, Part #W12978, and it is MUCH higher quality and the bushings have a noticeably firmer durometer than the ES kit. This solved the bushing slop on that "D" shaped bushing. After this experience, and after receiving the Whiteline front LCA bushings and seeing the amazing quality they bring with all their products, I will be a Whiteline customer for all my bushing needs from now on. Hope this information helps others. Thanks again for another great video. Cheers!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing this. I'm going to make a note in the video description suggesting people buy the Whiteline kit instead. Thanks!

[@briancunningham7610]

Great detailed video, guys! I knocked out my valve cover gaskets, cam plugs and half moons last weekend and plan to do this job+lower ball joints next weekend. When's the timing belt/water pump video coming?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Brian, I would like the challenge of doing the timing belt and water pump but I bought my truck with 111,000 miles on it and the previous owners got them replaced a short time before I bought it. So, my truck has around 141,000 miles now and I'm probably not going to do it until I get around 200,000 miles on the odometer. That's provided something like a water pump leak or something else forces me to tear into the front of the engine beforehand. I have seen one video on KZbin that was pretty good, but when we get around to doing it on my truck or Sean's, we'll give way more detail and information in our video so it will make it easier for people to accomplish the task with a higher level of success. Glad you're liking the videos we're putting out.

[@jrbegay7757]

Thanks for your videos! Just did mine I went with Total Chaos bushing and it was a pain to get the bushing in

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. I didn't know Total Chaos made bushings for this application.

[@CrayCrayRedneck]

Empire of the Sun. I dig it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep! Good song!

[@iburstabean]

Finished this yesterday, took 8 hours. Thanks Timmy and Sean

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Good job getting it done.

[@iburstabean]

@@TimmyTheToolman 3 months later, I now have a leak where the steering column goes down into the rack. Looked around on T4R.org and couldn't find anyone trying to replace the seals. Would you attempt replacing the seals or just go for a whole new rack? i.imgur.com/I3D38QN.png My leak looks similar to this image I found on the forum, but it's the bright red ATF, not yellow

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@iburstabean I've never tried to service the seals on the steering rack so I wouldn't be any help to you. If it were me and the leak wasn't terrible, I'd just keep driving it as is and not worry about it. But, if it starts really losing ATF quickly, that's the time to address it. My steering rack leaks out from the side shaft areas and ATF pools in the boots. But, since the leak isn't that bad requiring to constantly add fluid, I ignore it and carry on.

[@iburstabean]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the response. My leak is very bad, dripping pretty quickly. I have to refill the reservoir every 3 days or so, which leads me to think it's a bigger problem than just the seal it's coming out of (just inside that dust cover in the photo). Driver's side boot was torn for an indeterminate amount of time before I realized and replaced it so who knows how much dirt got in and how much damage was caused. Probably looking at a new rack down the road anyways nearing the 200k mark.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@iburstabean Gotcha. I think it's time to replace it then. People do go with aftermarket, but lots of guys end up regretting that decision because they fail prematurely. I would recommend only buying an OEM rack from Toylta. I think online pricing is right around $500. But, they come with new inner tie rods and inner tie rods cost around $300 for a pair if you buy them separately. So, it's not a bad deal. We have a video for swapping out a steering rack.

[@johnwaldron7647]

Thanks again !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@user-ss6zt2mo1l]

Great video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Greg. We appreciate you taking the time to comment.

[@johnathanritter3968]

would it be easier if you dropped the whole rack itself and did the bushings on the bench?

[@sansaeteurn5027]

For the passenger bolts for the sway bar bracket I found that going from the wheel well is a easy way to get to them with an extension and a swivel socket for anyone that needs to do it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing.

[@murraya007able]

Great video I used it to change mine just now,i didn't have a bushing pusher kit but after cutting the face off the bushing it pushed out with tapping with a hammer(I did spray lube on first tho) also I left the tie rods on and also only undone the sway bar ends so it can move out of the way when needed.Super video would have been much harder if didn't see it.thanks :)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad our video helped you out. People have said you can do the job leaving the tie rods connected, but since I have the pullers and it's so easy to break them free, I figured why not disconnect them so it's that much easier to manipulate the steering rack while we're working on it. If you're not replacing the bushings on the sway bar, I can see keeping it attached, but it's also not something that hard to remove so we decided to get it out of the way so there would be more room to work.

[@00civic1]

Thank you sir, saved me $360 today. Now I can get an alignment

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Luis. Glad our video helped you out.

[@key-bn1xx]

just something I'd like to share that made removing the passenger side sway bar bracket out easier where the exhaust pipe is in the way, i got the nut and bolt out going over the frame rail through the rubber splash guard in the wheel well. i used a 3/8 ratchet with two 3inch extension and 12mm short socket. I live on an island so rust is everywhere and getting the nut and bolt to break free through the wheel well made it easier for me to get better leverage

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Cool, thanks for sharing this.

[@moeman2274]

Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You’re welcome! We hope you’re subscribed!

[@jkdsteve]

Great video! I happened to notice while I was under my truck doing other stuff that the horizontal busing on mine is looking very worn and have a little play in my steering...hoping this will solve it? I am doing tie rod ends too, since I think the drivers side one pops a bit...then it's off to the shop for alignment.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video Steve. Worn steering rack bushings can definitely cause play in your steering. Good luck with the job and let me know how it turns out for you. Happy Wrenching!

[@echosierraenroute]

it also looks like i wont be able to pull out the really long bolt with the 22mm nut on the drivers side, it looks like it will hit my front differential?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Evan, your rig probably has a differential drop installed. All you have to do is remove remove the two differential mount bolts, then remove the diff drop pucks and you can raise the differential out of the way to get that bolt out.

[@ramireznico]

Good video, I used to work in 3rd gen 4 runner and land cruiser prado jz90 or 95 that shares same platform of 3rd gen four runner and I all ready change that bushings but de play still there , something on steering column its happening and steering wheel still plays side to side all ball joints are new and oem ones.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Check out this forum write-up. I think this might fix you issue. www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/161689-diagnose-fix-steering-play-rattle.html

[@kingkonginthetrunk]

Noticed steering in our 3rd gen has been really bad lately. Get under while GF turns back and forth -- yep bushings are mush and rack is moving A LOT! Can't wait to get this done and feel the improvements. What would you say to doing the job without unhooking the tie rods? Thanks again!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Ian, you'll definitely notice an improvement after doing this job. Unhooking the tie rods makes it much easier to maneuver the rack around. It's worth the trouble in my opinion. If you don't own a puller, just rent one at an auto parts store for free. Don't forget to lock your steering before you start taking thing apart. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!

[@echo8287]

Timmy, I am fixing to change my inner and outer tie rods on a 1999 Tacoma. I think I'll change all these bushing too as it has 210,000 miles on it. How much more trouble is it to just take the rack off to do the bushing and what if any issues will I have disconnecting the fluid lines? I have a 20 ton press if I need it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I wouldn't remove the rack from the vehicle. Those fluid lines can be on there pretty tight so I wouldn't mess with them unless I had to. The steering rack bushings aren't in there that tight at all. A 20 ton press is WAY OVERKILL. The balljoint C-press does the job really well. The C-press is a bulky tool, but if you have the front end of your rig jacked up high enough, you'll have plenty of room to work with the C-press to get the job done.

[@appleanthony]

Would replacing bushings on a 2002 4Runner 2WD be the same parts and labor? Love the videos BTW. Motivates me to work on my Runner more. Keep up the good work

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Anthony, as far as I know, the steering rack and sway bar for a 2WD should be the same as a 4WD. I don't see why Toyota would make the 2WD version any different, and in my 2000 Factory Service Manual, I didn't see any notations that the 2WD was different from the 4WD. So, you should be able use the same part numbers and steps we show to do this job on your 2WD 4runner. Thanks for the comment. Hearing our videos motivate you to work on your rig more makes us happy. Our main goal is to empower people to do their own repairs so they can save money and learn more about auto mechanics. We also hope the knowledge you gain on our channel is used to help others out who could use some wrenching help to avoid the high labor costs at dealerships and other shops.

[@israelrodriguez6986]

Hi Timmy, if i may ask what is the purpose for replacing the sway bar end link bushings. Like what is the use or purpose of that end link anyway, and why is it important to replace it, even upgrade it. Thank you so much!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The end links are just how the sway bar connects to each side of the vehicle. The end link bushings are meant to cushion and flex with the articulation of the sway bar. The sway bar needs to flex to work properly. Over time, those bushings get dried out and deteriorate. Replacing them or upgrading them helps keep the sway bar flexing properly with the movement of the vehicle. If the sway bar was just bolted directly to the frame metal to metal, it would make a hell of a noise and the sway bar would end up breaking from the force transferred to it at as the body moves. The sway bars purpose is to limit body roll on turns to help you keep control of your vehicle. Some people take it off their rig altogether but they just affected how their vehicle will handle in a pretty big way.

[@marksimcoe4105]

So I completed replacing my steering rack bushings with Whiteline poly this weekend and had an unexpected result. The new bushings are great. Significantly improved precision and almost no wandering. I'm very impressed with the result. But, when I drove vehicle the steering wheel was canted to the left about 90 degrees. Before replacing the bushings it was canted to the right between 5 -10 degrees straight from an alignment by the dealer. Another thing to note is that I think I remember (not 100% sure) being able to turn the wheels before and after I disconnected the tie rod. In retrospect I don't understand how this was possible. The steering was definitely locked which I also confirmed after completing the installation. Another thing is that when I parked the vehicle the steering wheel was straight but, when the lock was engaged it was canted to the left about 90 degrees. I was not concerned that the wheel was not absolutely straight as I thought locking it was the most important part. What I can't figure out is it possible that the steering wheel is now off and by this much. Other than the rack the only thing disconnected was the drivers side tie rod so I would think the alignment could not be off (but then how could the steering wheel be off either?). The only way the steering wheel should be off is if by locking the wheel somehow it is then independent of the steering rack (but then why would the instructions say to lock it in the first place). I'm stumped and I need to understand how this could happen to be able to understand whether or not the alignment is now off and how to correct the alignment of the steering wheel. Any ideas on how this could happen?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You are not off that much. You can correct this by removing the steering wheel and reattaching it one notch or two to the right or you can correct this by lifting the lower rag joint half off the steering rack splined shat and turning it one or two notches to the right. You would do either of these techniques with the wheels pointed straight ahead. We have the steering wheel replacement video or the steering rack replacement video that will show you how to do either of these techniques to get your steering wheel more centered. What you have to know is it can't be far off because you locked your steering wheel. Maybe the reason for the new steering wheel position was due to the fact that the bushings were wasted and steering rack wasn't properly centered like it is now. I wouldn't stress on it. Do either of things I said to get your steering wheel more centered. If it's still a tiny bit off, you can get it more perfectly centered the next time you get an alignment.

[@marksimcoe4105]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. I just finished watching the steering wheel video and I too plan on replacing my worn out wheel so the video was timely and very helpful. Thanks for doing these videos they really are a life saver if you are doing the repairs yourself. I did think the bushings felt pretty mushy when I examined after removal. I guess a little movement of the rack translates into a rather big change in the orientation of the wheel. Thanks for the feedback.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@marksimcoe4105 You're welcome. Good luck with the steering wheel swap.

[@cameronnorton5898]

Did you notice any changes in handling after doing this job? My T4R has a shaky front end, so I am gonna do brakes, bearings, ball joints and bushings. Would you recommend the poly bushings vs oem?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Cameron, my steering felt much tighter and responsive afterward. Both OEM and aftermarket poly bushings are good. Poly bushings are much more affordable than buying OEM rubber bushings and that's why most go with aftermarket. The poly will last you a long time so I would say go with poly for the money savings.

[@marksimcoe4105]

So I posted a question on the steering rack replacement video asking if I needed to remove the two joints holding the rag joint together or the one bolt underneath the rag joint where the steering rack spline is mated to the upper part of the steering wheel shaft. I think it's the one bolt at the spline and then I would lift shaft up a little and rotate the shaft to the right one or more notches to re-center the steering wheel. But, I want to make sure. Thanks in advance for your help.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I answered your question in the steering rack replacement video. Check it out.

[@Buzz-bv3rj]

great job and helpful as i seem to be doing the same jobs on mine !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Buzz, good luck with the job and let me know how it goes for you.

[@Buzz-bv3rj]

thank you , i've got vehicle pull to right on acceleration and pulls to the left on deceleration ? change up/lower ball joints , wheel bearings and rear control arm bushing and link . still does it . but a bushing is bad in rear control arm , guess its the next project . would love to talk and ask a few questions.

[@Buzz-bv3rj]

rear sway bar bushings and link , lower rear control(trailing) arm bushing is bad

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We have a video for replacing the rear lower control arm bushings. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKKQna2BbKiDgbM If your rear upper control arm bushings are bad, it would be the same procedure. Use the ratchet straps to pull the rearend in the correct direction to take tension off the bolts. Remove the arm and press out the bushings like we show in the video. If you want to talk on the phone, give me your email address and I'll send you my phone number.

[@Buzz-bv3rj]

thank you , hope it solves the issue

[@jmtcol5280]

Hello Timmy the Tool man Toyota! Been watching your videos for a few years now and they've helped me out a bunch! Cheers to you guys. I wanted to ask you about the perpendicular bolt bushing sleeve for the rack. Do you remember if that was a snug fit on the bolt to the inner sleeve bushing? When I installed my energy suspension bushing kit I purchased the black bushing kit instead of the red (not a fan of red) which came with a few different sleeve options for the perpendicular bolt. I ended up using the sleeve with the widest inner diameter so the bolt would clear( was not tight though ) and looked like yours was the same size in this video vs the other two which had thicker inner diameter walls and the bolt wouldn't clear. One of those I wanted to drill out a little more so the bolt would be snug but didn't have the tools:( After installation I noticed some slight play in the rack. I ordered the red kit and confirmed the perpendicular bolt sleeve is the same size as the one I used.... any thoughts?? Thanks Tim, Jared Trujillo, Denver, Colorado

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The rack is going to have some play due to the bushings. I think when the bolts are tightened, it captures the sleeve so the sleeve can't move. So, I don't think it matters if the bolt doesn't fit super tight in the sleeve because there is no movement that's going to be happening. Great to hear our videos are helping you out Jared. Happy Wrenching.

[@jackstickney9388]

I’m installing a new OEM rack on Friday. Do you think it would be worth it to swap the bushings with energy suspension ones, or stick with the new OEM bushings supplied?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jack, I'd just stick the OEM bushings. Getting poly bushings is an option for those with worn OEM bushings. Those OEM bushings will last you a very long time.

[@iamoutofideas13]

Ya'll rock.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you think so Robert.

[@Ashoud_Anobetah]

I'm gonna do this job soon but i intend on dropping the entire rack and work on it outside.. I'll do a full steering fluid flush at the same time

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good luck with the job.

[@josephagosta7554]

Hi Tim, I noticed when removing Right side(passenger) sway bar bracket on my 2002 Tacoma TRD that the Bracket nut and bolt had threads worn off. Not sure if this is due to order of attachment. Do I have to remove sway bar end links first in order to successfully replace sway bar bracket bushings? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, you don't have to remove the end links to remove the bushing brackets. Sounds like someone might have cross threaded them at one point if the threads are messed up.

[@gurugulvadi4902]

Thanks Timmy for the excellent video and explanation. Could you pl send me what service manual are you using as I cant find one to buy. Please send a cover photo and any info wher i can get one. thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just do a search on Ebay for your year. For example: "1999 Toyota 4runner Factor Service Manual".

[@gstmike01]

Great video! Curious did you end up putting the bolt back in for the steering rack lines? Didn't see it in the video but I assumed you did and didn't leave them floating

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, we put that bolt back in to hold the power steering line bracket on the inside of the driver side frame rail.

[@michaeldoherty6026]

Question!!! How could i find all the hardware to replace when i do this job everything is quite rusty?? Love your videos about to tackle my timing belt thanks to your video and would like to do this one next lmk if you know and have a minute THANKS!!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Toyota might still sell the hardware. Your local dealer might be able to help you out.

[@christopherowens401]

I am planning to do the steering rack and sway bar bushing job as well as new end links and low-ball joints on a 2006 Toyota Sequoia. It seems like a good idea to combine them but is there an order of opposition you would recommend?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I haven't worked on a Sequoia yet but I assume it would be the same procedure. Get the sway bar out of the way, do the steering rack bushings first and then do the sway bar bushings second.

[@ramireznico]

Hi Tym I follow your channel in Costa Rica I got a question about the steering column it clunks and have play in the steering wheel do you ever fix the intermediate shaft or know what the problem is or how to fix. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Juan Ramirez Hey Juan this is a fairly common problem that people experience. One possibiltiy is the steering shaft is made in such a way that it will collapse in a front end collision. The two piece shaft develops play and will cause that clunk. Some people drill a hole into the two pieces and put a rolled steel pin and other will put a couple tack welds. There are write-ups on this fix you can find by doing an online search. Another possibilty is the steering rack guide. Once they adjust or replace the guide, the clunk goes away. We have a video for replacing the steering rack guide. It could also be worn out tie rods too.

[@tiger7419]

Hi Timmy, I really need your help. I have 1998 toyota 4runner 4 cyclinder manual. After I replace the drive shaft and the drum brake. It's start have a death wobble(it's come and go at the highway speed) I bought it to several mechanic(even a suspension specialist) but they can't figure out the problem is. When it's has a death wobble the brake wont engage properly(I need to pull over to complete stop to stop the death wobble before I can drive again)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I take it you're talking about the rear driveshaft? First of all, why did you replace the driveshaft? Did you replace it with a used driveshaft or a new driveshaft? The driveshaft is balanced and maybe something is wrong with the driveshaft balancing. During the installation of the driveshaft, did you ever remove the slip yoke off the driveshaft. The reason why I'm asking is the slip yoke and main shaft are balanced as a unit. If you took off the slip yoke and didn't put it back in the same spot, the balancing will be off and could cause a vibration problem. But I forgot to ask, describe what you mean by a death wobble. It is in the front end of the vehicle or the back end? Now for the brakes, what exactly did you replace for the rear drum brakes?

[@backroadseeker08]

Tim, how do you like the 4600 Bilsteins on your truck? Debating between those on stock springs (mine is an 01) or the popular OME 880/906 springs with 4Runner specific Bilstein 5100's. Planning on using this video along with your lower ball joint one soon!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey James, the 4600s have been good. I sort of wish I went with a little more lift in the rear than the 99 Tall Springs gave me. I think the OME 906 offer a 2" lift in the rear which would have been better because I regularly carry a bunch of gear in the back of my rig and my springs starts to sag from the weight. I guess it depends how you use your rig. If you're like me and carry a bunch of weight regularly, you might be better off with the OME set-up with Bilstein 5100's.

[@konnerng2650]

Just a random question for you or anyone really. Is the addco sway bars for rear and front worth the cost? I want to switch to poly bushings to reduce body roll, and since I'm down there I'd like to know if their sway bars are better than stock?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sorry but we don't know anything about Addco sway bars.

[@klacow]

your videos as going to be a great resource , I am currently going to rebuild the entire front and rear suspension on my "new" 98.... PS, did you resecure your power steering line ?:}

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not to toot our own horn but I agree with you that our videos will help you out a lot with all your planned work. Yes, we did re-secure the power steering line bracket on the inside of the driver side frame rail. We probably just failed to show us reattaching it in the video. Good luck with all the work.

[@sergiovilla3061]

Awesome video! really helped allot. i just did this replacement, and now im having issues when making a right turn. any time i make a right turn i hear a thud as the wheels rotate. on the freeway any slight movement to the right makes a really bad thudding sound as well that can be felt in the floor board. my tie rod ends are new as well. when turning the steering wheel at stationary theres no noise only when in motion. any idea of what i could have done wrong? thanks again for taking the time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Have you gotten somebody to turn the steering wheel for you back and forth while you're underneath the rig looking at the steering rack? A bad thudding sound is more than a little worrisome. I've never heard of this happening to anyone else after performing this job.

[@sergiovilla3061]

@@TimmyTheToolman i appreciate the reply! and yes i have had some one turn the wheel, i didn't notice any play in the rack and pinion. the thudding comes from the left side where i removed the tie rod from. which is really odd to me, i have never heard this sound before unless from a bad cv axle but thats more of a clicking. which you do you hear on ocassion. before this i have never heard this sound on my 4runner. my next step was to re adjust all this over again. one big difference though is i did do this on ramps wheels on . as well as had to turn the steering wheel to get the rack to realign to center. all this was after i had gotten home and it was already being worked on :(

[@raylauk5686]

@@sergiovilla3061 Did you end up finding out what was wrong?

[@monkeyspank2270]

How have the bushings lasted on your ride oh might Timmy the Toolman? I have had good and bad luck with them in the past and wanted to check in now this video had some years on it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They have held up fine. No issues and I probably have around 60,000 miles on them.

[@danielkerr5763]

I ordered the bushing in the description and just went to put them on my 2000 4runner they are way too big to fit in the factory brackets. Do i need different brackets or different bushings.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Daniel, I screwed up and steered you wrong. 3rd Gen 4runners use a 26mm sway bar bushing and Tacomas use a 27mm sway bar bushing. I made the correction in the video description and added the link to the kit you need for your 4runner. I feel bad this happened. Send me an email with the email address you use for PayPal and I'll reimburse you the money so you don't have to bother sending that kit back. Maybe you know of someone with a 1st Gen Tacoma who can use them. Or, if you have Venmo, I can send you the money that way as well. Here's my email address: [e-mail]

[@hortod1]

Hi Tim and Sean - if I wanted to do this and replace the inner tie rods, would I need to buy them separately or do they come with the oem rack? Thanks guys--

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A Toyota OEM steering rack comes with new inner tie rods.

[@davidc5316]

I just did this job, and when I pulled the boot off the end of the rack to get to the cross member bolt, I lost some fluid out of the end. Is that power steering fluid that I can just top of in the engine compartment? Or something else? Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's power steering fluid. Your seal is leaking some. You just top off the power steering fluid reseevoir.

[@joker9099]

Hi Timmy my wifes truck has a (death wobble) when breaking at highway speeds we took it to a mechanic he said its the bushings but asking your opinion?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

launch pad Usually a wobble during breaking has to do with uneven break pad deposits on the front rotors. Some think the rotor is actually warped but that's a misconception. If I were you, I'd replace the front brake pads and either have the rotors turned at a shop to have a new machined surface for the brake pads or just get yourself a new set of rotors. I wish we had a video for this but our Tundra Brake Upgrade video will show you most of what you need to do this job. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmndqmCgabp1i9E For this job, you're not replacing the calipers so you just have to compress the caliper pistons to make room for the new pads. To start, check the level of brake fluid in your master cylinder. If it's at the max level, draw some brake fluid out with a syringe or turkey baster to the minimum level. When you compress the pistons, the brake fluid has to go somewhere and it's going to return to the master cylinder. If you don't draw out fluid, the master cylinder will overflow. Keep the master cylinder cap off and compress one of the calipers. To compress the cylinders, keep one of the old pads in the caliper and either use a large channel locks or a c-clamp to compress the pistons until they're fully retracted. You put one jaw of the channel lock on the body of the caliper and the other jaw on the brake pad and squeeze. The jaw of the channel lock could mar the surface of the caliper so you could put a folded up rag between the jaw and caliper body If you want. If using a c-clamp, capture the brake pad and caliper body and screw down until the calipers are retracted. Now do the same with the other side. Check the level in the master cylinder. If the fluid level is pretty high, draw more brake fluid out so you don't overflow it when you compress the other caliper. For the rest of the job, follow the TBU video. If you get OEM Toyota pads, they will come with two metal shims. The one with the slots cut out goes against the brake pad and then the other one goes on top of that. That inner slotted shim should be coated in caliper grease on both sides. You'll also want caliper grease on the friction points of the brake pad pins to allow free movement of the pads. If you want, some people opt to buy a second set of brake pad springs so the pads are less likely to drag. So, you'll have a return spring upper and lower if that makes sense. I hope this ends up being your fix. It is definitely the first thing I would try. Worn steering rack bushings or would cause you sloppy steering at all times, not just when you're braking.

[@LM-47]

does this make a difference? is it worthwhile? thanks Timmy, these vids are very helpful

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it makes a big difference if the bushings are worn, especially for the steering rack. It will tighten up your steering and make it more responsive. If the sway bar bushings are severely worn, you'll get less body roll in the turns after you renew them.