Suzuki 2.5 HP Outboard: Drive Shaft Stuck In Powerhead Fix/Solution.

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Stuck Drive Shaft Cost
Splined Coupler - $13.95
Head Gasket - $22.18
Crankcase Gasket - $27.79
Water Pump Housing - $11.79
Water Pump Impeller - $17.61
Water Pump O-Ring - $2.27
Water Pump Pin - $1.14
Valve Cover Gasket - $5.04
Carb Gasket - $2.50
Under Oil Seal Plate - $6.37
Crank Shaft Oil Seal - $33.93
Drive Shaft Oil Seal - $16.54
Drive Shaft Gasket - $9.14
TOTAL - $170.25 + Tax + Shipping
If you are trying to remove the powerhead, work on the lower unit, or replace the water pump/impeller, and the drive shaft will not come out of the powerhead, then you are in trouble. Basically, water has made its way to the splined connector that attaches the crankshaft on the powerhead to the main shaft. If in saltwater, it basically ends up corrosion welding itself together. Because of the location of the connector, you have no way to access it unless you get it separated. I walk through a few ways of trying to get it separated, and then a nuclear solution which requires damaging your water pump and impeller. I also included how to get the corroded connector separated from the drive shaft and the crank shaft using a die grinder.
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KEY WEST KAYAK FISHING: Equipment Used
The RODS AND REELS:
1) Esky Rods - Spinning 7' (Med 12-15lb Saltwater) - Slow Parabolic Action - Solid Carbon - Fuji Guides(8) and Reel Seat.
- Quantum Cabo 4000
-20lb Power Pro
2) Esky Rods - Spinning 7' (Med/Hvy 15-20lb Saltwater) - Fast Action - Solid Carbon - Fuji Guides(8) and Reel Seat.
- Quantum Cabo 5000
-30lb Power Pro
3) Esky Rods - Spinning 7' (Med 12-15lb Saltwater) - Med Fast Action - Solid Carbon - Fuji Guides(8) and Reel Seat.
- Quantum Cabo 6000
-50lb Power Pro
4) Esky Rods - Spinning 6'4" (25-30lb Saltwater) - Mod-Fast Action - Solid Carbon - Fuji Guides(9) and Reel Seat.
- Shimano Torium 16
-65lb Power Pro
Esky Rods
3414 Duck Avenue,#8
Key West, Florida 33040
305-896-4637
[e-mail]
www.eskyrods.com/
The Kayaks
1) 2010 Wilderness Systems Tarpon 140.
2) 2012 Hobie Adventure Island (BLUE) w/ Outboard Motor Mount
- 2010 Suzuki 2.5 HP 4-Stroke Outboard
- Lowrance Hook-5
3) 2012 Hobie Adventure Island (RED) w/ Outboard Motor Mount
- 2018 Suzuki 2.5 HP 4-Stroke Outboard
- Lowrance Hook-5
The Rods/Reels (RETIRED)
1) 7' MH Shimano Teramar, TMS-X70MH, Line Wt. 10-20lb, Lure Wt 1/2-1 1/2oz, Power: Medium Heavy, Action: Extra Fast
- Penn Conflict 4000
- Power Pro 20lb
- Power Pro 10lb
- Andes 15lb pink mono
2) 7' H Shimano Teramar, TMS-F70H, Line Wt. 15-20lb, Lure Wt 1/2-2oz, Power: Heavy, Action: Med Fast
- Penn Conflict 6000
- Power Pro 65lb
3) 5'8" XH Shimano Treval Jigging Trigger Rod, TVC-58XH, Line Wt. 80-200, Lure Wt, 160 - 270grams, PowerExtra Heavy
- Shimano Torium 16
- Power Pro 65lb
4) 7'6" M Hurricane Calico Jack IM7, CAJ-457, Line Wt. 8-17lb, Lure Wt 3/8-3/4oz, Power: Medium
- Shimano Solstace 4000 FI
- Power Pro 20lb
5) 6' Ande Tournament Stand Up Rod, ASU-601A SDRMH, Line Wt. 20-50, Power: Medium Heavy
- Shimano TLD-30A 2-Speed
- Power Pro 65lb
6) 6'6" Shimano Trevala, TVC-66MH, Line Wt. 50-100lb, Jig Wt 50-100g, Power: Medium Heavy, Action: Medium Fast
- Abu Garcia 6500C3
- Power Pro 30lb
7) 7' Shimano Trevala, TVC-70ML, Line Wt. 20-50lb, Jig Wt 55-135g, Power: Medium Light, Action: Medium Fast
- Abu Garcia 6500C3
- Power Pro 30lb
Plus a few other misc saltwater rigs that are used sparingly and some Bass rigs which I won't use in salt water.
Cast Nets
-5' 3/8" Plastic enclosed weights
-6' 3/16" Super Spreader SS-1000 1 lb per foot
-7' 3/8" Mako 1lb per foot
Filming
GoPro Hero 8 Black
GoPro Hero 7 Black
GoPro Hero 4 Black with Sennheiser MKE2 Elements waterproof microphone.
GoPro Hero 4 Silver
GoPro Hero 3 Black
Panasonic G7
-14-42mm F3.5-5.8
-20mm F1.7
Software: Adobe Premeire Elements and Photoshop Elements
The Car - 2009 Honda Fit Base Model - 5 Speed Manual, Yakima Roof Rack.
The Motorcycle - 1997 BMW F650
Header Graphic Created By: Jeff Kaphingst (www.jeffthedesigner.com) (www.rack30.com)

[@KeyWestKayakFishing]

STUCK DRIVE SHAFT COST Splined Coupler - $13.95 Head Gasket - $22.18 Crankcase Gasket - $27.79 Water Pump Housing - $11.79 Water Pump Impeller - $17.61 Water Pump O-Ring - $2.27 Water Pump Pin - $1.14 Valve Cover Gasket - $5.04 Carb Gasket - $2.50 Under Oil Seal Plate - $6.37 Crank Shaft Oil Seal - $33.93 Drive Shaft Oil Seal - $16.54 Drive Shaft Gasket - $9.14 TOTAL - $170.25 + Tax + Shipping

[@canigetachannel]

Very nice Steve. Hundred seventy bucks is way less than the alternatives. I've never owned an outboard engine. Those Suzukis are perfect for your application! I love your motorized Kayak and the places you take it (deep offshore, mind blown). I really wish I could go there, it's so beautiful (bucket list item). I have enjoyed your videos for a few years now, (since Key West days) as well as the products I've acquired from you. Your business practices are excellent, logistics and all! I really appreciate you, so thanks. p.s. I was born there (most southeastern place in the lower 48, on the NAS), also coincidentally, I've lived in the Sacramento area of California (all of the places you've mentioned, delta and all). Fished most of the rivers and coasts along the west of north America. Right now I'm on the Olympic Peninsula and doing a lot of fishing here. Two species I haven't yet acquired in western North America are true Sockeye Salmon (might have to go to Canada), not Kokanee (there's a lot of Kokanee in Lake Tahoe) and the Giant Pacific Red Octopus. The octopus is massive and scary! They can easily lift a 400lb. rock off of the bottom to get dungeness crab, their favorite food. Stay awesome, wish me luck buddy, Thanks.

[@1werewolf]

Goggled a 2.5 hp Suzuki outboard...$819.00. Options were to replace or DIY. Labor would have killed cost. Good decision.

[@malpaguaymas9976]

number part please - Splined Coupler - $13.95

[@megatron2956]

Is this a kit?

[@basketofdeplorables4253]

I used to work on out boards quite a bit. When that happened I used to cut a slit at the front of the midsection with a saws all deep enough to cut the shaft. Then pull it apart. Weld the slit in the midsection. On a small engine like this I would even weld the shaft back together if the rest of it looked ok.

[@antrigen1480]

2-4-C marine grease with PTFE, its your friend! I have encountered corrosion like that before so I know what a impressive job you did. Grats and Greetings from Punta Gorda!

[@mindfulkayaker7737]

Good morning Steve I own a Yamaha 2.5 hp motor that I would like to donate to you I live in Miami close to the homestead If by any chance you are traveling close to my home you may let me know

[@mikecheck1256]

Good man. 👍

[@josephprimavera2545]

You are a very patient mechanic. Great job!

[@velocity800]

that's why its always wise to run the motor on a tub with tap water after every outing, to flush out the salt water residue inside.

[@chucksmith5002]

You seem to know what your doing that can save you some money. Enjoyed it Steve

[@1werewolf]

Btw, good video. Love these DIY videos. Best way to learn is by doing.

[@craigarnold323]

Try a product called Freeze Off and a torch. Heat the area if there are no seals to save, then hit with the Freeze Off, when the metal cools it pulls in the lubricants in the Freeze Off and helps loosen the corroded parts. I did this to a Brownie unit with a Honda engine and it took a few days of doing this but saved the engine, good luck.

[@lucasxavier3564]

cracked the case ... hello JB weld plastic bond ... gotta take your inner shade tree mechanic all the way out

[@hansgruber2509]

That is a major design flaw, not using a SS spline coupler in that location. That saves Suzuki $1 in manufacturing and costs the end user $100s in labor costs to fix it

[@FrankLadd]

An o -ring to compress the seal on the shaft might work than the metal compression spring. I think the best lube for the splines would be anhydrous lanolin. It is a terible shame a machist somewhere is not making and supplying bronze couplers for the motor as an after market part.

[@11ccom]

Coupler: Needs to be stainless steel or brass. Call and tell Suzuki...they might make one. Also, you can measure exactly where the impeller pin is and drill thru the aluminum lower housing, plastic impeller housing and impeller (3/16 or 1/4 drill bit) cover hole with jbweld or whatever when done. Use jbweld or epoxy or 3m 5300 and a small drill bit to fasten to the pin and take it out. Also the coupler seal needs to be stainless. Also maybe fill that cavity with never seize or silicone or 5300 (oil the shaft if 5300) to help keep the water out. Or never seize every year.

[@chessyman6973]

If when you had the outboard hanging upside down I think if you had loosened the bolts that hold the power head without removing them and then used an air hammer with a bit ground to fit the power head bolts in some fashion, then used the air hammer on the bolts it would have broken loose with the shock the air hammer provides. The air hammer could have been used in the same fashion when winching on the trailer.

[@ThatYoutubebloke]

never bang or hang your motor while the propeller and worm gears are attached, there is a c clamp on the end of the shift, it can break off causing damage to the grove in the shaft, it can also put fragments into the gear. Take the prop and gears out, then clamp a hose onto the shaft and hang or use a puller on it.

[@martinr6107]

A 50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Best penetrating fluid ever.

[@Rockabuy2002]

Garbage can would be a option for me. Huge effort. More to come when you reassemble. Just looked at price of new… around a $1000.

[@wegottafishdude]

🤘🏻😎🤘🏻 Awesome stuff dude

[@AnglerPPU]

sh33t now i think i have problem like this because my water pump need replace,,and my shaft stuck like this video,,,

[@motorikiller3150]

i want ot bay the engine for some project, do you want to it?

[@fadlyfr8276]

Ada jual karet sel nya ngk?

[@davidsawyer7880]

In no way am I implying that you did anything wrong. Especially considering your limited tools. A superior seal may be available in the market place. It might be used in an entirely different function/field such as agriculture or industrial applications. Once needed a roller bearing. Went to a Bearing Wholesaler and they used a micrometer to get the dimensions and hooked me up. The other thought is shrink tube over the coupler. No idea if that would work. The best shrink tubing has silicone inside and it oozes out when contracting. A few other things for those that read comments. Never ever use sand paper on any surface that needs to be dimensionally tolerant. Scouring pads and elbow grease is the only way to go. One is only as good as their tools. A micrometer that is $20.00 is not the way to go. Run by a machine shop and let them measure what ever needs measuring. A couple thousands in a seal is not good. Tight lines Steve.

[@SSHitMan]

Seems like a lot to try to save an $800 motor!

[@jeffheffner6196]

I would like some Esky Root Beer 🍺 in the box 📦 behind you. 😂

[@ShayneHodgson-uy2fi]

Think I will stick with Johnson Evinrude outboards…… Piss poor quality by Suzuki to see corrosion such as this, eight months out of warranty 😳🙄

[@SproozGooz]

yo the real question is why do you need so much rolled oats?

[@kynndarrnwilliamson7073]

Mix with chum makes it last longer

[@jonrydquist9246]

Your landlord probably wouldn't like that first image.

[@208miuwu]

Put some Heat to it. Get a torch and repaint later

[@thomasway5882]

The miracle of grease use it

[@jayjohnson9668]

Looks like you have a full blown Cluster##@$&*((%@ going on right there!😎

[@freshlysaltedfishing8500]

Emotional damage

[@chuckerroo5977]

lol. the crazy shit we do to save a few bucks

[@chuckerroo5977]

it would of been cheaper to buy a new motor considering lost wages. but you did make $ from youtube which helps. however now you know that motor inside and out.

[@velocity800]

Agaiiiin??????

[@1werewolf]

Looks like you are destroying that engine, unless you have done this before or worked for Suzuki. Remember keep a good trolling motor as a back up...Lol...