That time I took a massive avoidable fall sport climbing! A near miss! Lanyard vs quickdraw!

[@anthonymagnani4100]

Thx for heads up on that one.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Pleasure 👊

[@Dutton86]

"Is a lanyard better for that job?".. "It could well be" 😂 How big was the whip?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Was pretty big. It was a long time ago but I guess 10m.

[@drqazlop]

Not big enough

[@rellify3]

Ever since your original video on this event, I've started just taking my lanyard when I'm cheating up a route 🤷‍♂️ a bit more effort, but makes me feel better. I still clean with a quick draw.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice one 👊

[@DerrickNedzelMtnBike]

Whoa, yikes! I could see that happening to me too. I’ll keep using my lanyard! Thanks for the great lesson!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Pleasure 👊

[@johtso1]

Yikes! What method were you using to clean the anchor and at what stage did this happen? Clearly you were still tied in, and it sounds like the rope was no longer clipped to the anchor? Was the rope burn from grabbing the belayer's side of the rope on the way down?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Wasn’t cleaning the anchor, was clip sticking a very run out route. The rope burn was because I was holding the rope to clip stick and it took a mo to realise what was going on and letting go. I was still tied in and on belay.

[@johtso1]

@@JBMountainSkills ah that makes sense! even using a proper lanyard I feel a little sketched out clip sticking up routes with the crazy amounts of slack you introduce into the system. Just using a quickdraw to go in hard.. yeah probably playing things a little fast and loose.. but that's the sport climbing style :) I've used the other end of my rope in the past to help aid up a route with some redundancy, but the faff obviously increases exponentially, I'm sure you've got a video all about that

[@lewy5378]

I use a skinny draw, only because I don't have any decent sport draws though.

[@DevinH-64]

I haven't heard of an accident, but a problem I see with lanyards is forgetting to tie into them, then tethering off while only on by a gear loop. Awareness and distractions, no matter how many layers of safety in your system, if you're distracted or lacking awareness you can have issues. Sometimes, a false sense of safety is a bad thing, simplicity can be safer.

[@SergieRachmaninoff]

I've never seen anyone rack a lanyard by girth hitching it to a gear loop. It's either hitched to the belay loop all day, or carabiner on the gear loop with both ends free, and therefore immediately noticeable if it isn't on your belay loop (I'd never do this anyway). Unless I'm misunderstanding you?

[@DevinH-64]

@@SergieRachmaninoff ya, Girth hitched to a gear loop.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Maybe. If something can happen, one day it will! If I'm using a lanyard it's on properly before I set off.