The Rise and Fall-ish of Paco Rabanne

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Paco Rabanne, known now only as Rabanne, was once one of the biggest brands of the 1960s, but after failing to innovate designs into the 1980s its been a slow decline into fashion obscurity, fully closing in the 2000s. However, while that happened, the fragrance side of the business stayed booming, allowing for the brand name to continue to hold value up until an eventual rebrand after Paco Rabanne's passing in 2023. The rebrand has been going shakily so far, it's not bad inherently, but it's lacking that cohesion that's necessary to bring people back to a sleeping beauty brand. In this video I offer suggestions on how exactly I would move forward.
Affiliate Links for Books Used:
Rabanne (1994) Has The Countdown Begun? Through Darkness to Enlightenment: amzn.to/4alduxH
Rabanne (1999) Journey: amzn.to/3QqNo5e
Rabanne (1999) Le Feu du Ciel: amzn.to/3QwAnH4
Steele (2004) Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion: amzn.to/3y4D5NI
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch
Unless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.

[@understitchYT]

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[@TrvisXXIII]

No idea why this channel isn’t bigger. There’s hours of content on here I wanna binge watch, but don’t have the time

[@chelseagirl278]

it should be at least 1M!!

[@understitchYT]

Im glad you want to binge them all 🥰 I neevr expected to find so many people interested in all the nerdy little details that interest me, Im so grateful for that 🥰

[@Squishmitten5]

This content is great for working! You don’t have to miss out just bc you can’t WATCH it. I love to listen then watch

[@marieberg4456]

I couldn’t agree more, this is the most high quality and best researched fashion channel on KZbin.

[@scpatl4now]

The only thing I remember about Paco Rabanne was their fragrance that they sold. I didn't much care for it, but I do remember it

[@understitchYT]

I mean I guess their quote was right 🤣

[@indoora]

The way you pronounced his name before stating his passing was beautiful.

[@Mitch-Alex]

I noticed that too

[@understitchYT]

Aw thank you, I just wanted to be respectful

[@Viviano_Magami]

I really HATE when corporate left out the given name the second after the founder died and use "growth" to describe the brand's future.

[@understitchYT]

Its overplayed now

[@martijnkeisers5900]

The graphics on the television screen shows me how much fun you have making these videos! Thank you again and greetings from Amsterdam! ❤

[@understitchYT]

Yeah this was a fun one to edit actually, I got a kick out of the tv screen bit 🤣

[@martijnkeisers5900]

@@understitchYT Obviously 😄😄

[@GarbageDayProductions]

this channel is phenomenal and deserves so much more subscribers. the amount of research and passion in each video is phenomenal

[@understitchYT]

Thats so kind thank you so much 🥰

[@pheebsbee1280]

Staple fragrances in every pharmacy cabinet 😊

[@understitchYT]

Its not a pharmacy without it 🤣

[@joseluisrodriguezritte2734]

Waking up to a new video from Understitch!!!… priceless!!! Keep them coming, your videos are very eye opening!!!.. much appreciated from Mexico!!

[@understitchYT]

Gracias!! Im glad you enjoy them 🥰

[@elproject3343]

I don’t even care about all this but her voice makes everything sounds SO interesting 😊

[@understitchYT]

Aww thank you 🥰

[@AskMiko]

My memories of the brand beyond fragrances is well tailored menswear: sweaters, casual wear that seemed to contrast nicely with his fragrances. I wish men moved more towards tailored clothing again vs. athletic and streetwear because both can coexist

[@understitchYT]

It could work for paco too because thats what he used to wear, but of course, its really the consistency and merchandising that makes that harder to rely on

[@preciousmartindale4364]

I found this channel and I feel in ❤ not only does it give you business advice but, also give you an insight on the high's and low's.

[@understitchYT]

Im glad you enjoyed it, I just want that kind of information accessible to all 🤍

[@welcomemoyo92]

I've said it before and I'll say it again... Brilliant work!!! I love when you share ideas on how things can be better.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much 🥰

[@MLGBGermany]

Love your content first of all ♥ (Paco) Rabanne's story is so fascinating, I knew very little about it but you've opened a new world. The collab with HM was fun, vibrant and giving disco vibes - too bad I couldn't put my hands on it!

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed it and it made you interested about PB, he was such an interesting person

[@aom9802]

Jean Patou got its last nail on the coffin when it became “Patou.” Getting rid of the first name is always the legal maneuver before the brand’s funeral. I’m afraid the same thing is happening with Rabanne. IMO, the only worthwhile thing Paco Rabanne ever sold under his name was perfumer Michael Hy’s creation- Calandre. Paco Rabanne was not a creator nor an artist. He was an opportunistic money-maker, like many “artists” of his generation. May he rest in peace.

[@understitchYT]

I dont think its fair to say Rabanne wasnt a creator because he certainly was in things like the paper dresses, chains and oversize sequins. But he just couldnt translate that into a modern style for the future decades That said Im very sad about both Rabanne and Patou lost their first names, both had more personality previously, now they feel more corporate and sterile, we really dont need more lvmh-esque brands

[@aom9802]

@@understitchYT There was nothing unique or special about Paco Rabanne’s paper dresses. Paper dresses have been around for hundreds of years. In modern times, you could even pick up a paper dress at your nearby Kentucky Fried Chicken! Google the Recollections blog article about the history of paper dresses- it’s hilarious!

[@kaboombox1581]

Great essay. I had always been told that while Rabanne was credited with designing all the costumes for Barbarella he had actually only done the the shimmering green tiled dress/leotard. It was only later that I found out that the garment was only inspired by Rabanne and actually designed by Fonteray. I used to love Paco Rabanne pour homme when I was in high school and university.

[@understitchYT]

Its wild how pervasive that rumour is considering the answer was in the credits! Tbh Im not really a fan of the perfume personally, but the clothes are such good quality, I was so impressed

[@markjohnson2257]

Great video as usual!!! I completely agree with you in regards to Rabonne not having a cohesive message with their clothing. I really like some of the designs but it is all over the place.

[@understitchYT]

Its really a shame because with the elements they have they can really translate that into a concise world and I do think the design team in general can do it, they just need a Billy Childish to Julien Dossena’s Tracy Emin (someone to curate the output, both in product and in promotion)

[@monsieurhoneybones]

I don't mean to sound repetitve, but, yet again another great video. To me, the big three from that era (in terms of ushering in modernism and what became the "mod look" of that era were Cardin, Rabane, and Gernreich. It would be also be amazing to see the rise and fall of Pierre Cardin as well as Cardin's repetoire is also legendary. ty.

[@understitchYT]

If this is your kind of repetitive I hope you never stop 🥰🥰 Im glad you always like the videos and I agree with your three, but Id add Mary Quant and Andre Couregges too tbh, maybe even Biba for London too, in terms of retailing. Such a legendary time

[@movieclipsforthevibes]

I LOVE this channel, I work in commercial production and binged 15+ videos before an interview with a fashion show company. They conducted the interview in an archive closet (lol) and I didn’t get the job but at least I could drop some knowledge on iconic shows!

[@understitchYT]

Oh that makes me so happy to hear! Did you get the job!

[@movieclipsforthevibes]

@@understitchYT Sadly no, but at least it helped me find this channel!

[@Psychocoko]

Thank youuuuuu. Been waiting for that one

[@understitchYT]

I hope you liked it

[@aaronjanlistanco]

since they change the name of the fashion house from PACO RABANNE to just RABANNE it's a crime to disrespected monsieur Paco Rabanne Hoping to change it back again to PACO RABANNE

[@understitchYT]

I hope they do change it back, but given how well the beauty adopted the name, I dont think its necessary for success if they brand the fashion retailing side as well as the cosmetics did

[@CanuckCatwalk]

Had no idea that Rabanne launched a makeup line! I will be making some purchases 👀

[@understitchYT]

I want to try it so badly now too!

[@tilioforeign]

This channel is a gem, I cherish it a lot

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much 🥰

[@feartheanxiety]

I hope you make a video about Givenchy!

[@understitchYT]

I definitely want to

[@nhlakaaa7048]

Ugh I love your stuff man!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🥰

[@Gian_Valkiri]

The Paco Rabanne not making the Barbarella costume was a shock to me, in my graduation 2 professors of fashion history lectured that Rabanne was the costume designer of that movie

[@understitchYT]

Its such a pervasive rumour, I also thought it before researching for this video and finding both the original costumiers and the (actually several, I only show one in the video) academic journals

[@natashacutmore7005]

I had no idea Paco Rabanne made clothes until I was about 18... All I'd seen growing up were (the very memorable) adds for fragrances.

[@understitchYT]

I went into Harvey Nichols to ask about it recently and it seems youre in the majority with that 🤣

[@evgeniiiii]

This 2008 Moscow show lady is Veronika Jeanvie.

[@understitchYT]

omg thank you so much! I searched so hard and came up with nothing, I found her on Instagram now, shes still going!

[@Mitch-Alex]

Yeah I noticed recently that the "Paco" was removed. It can be a little confusing to the general masses if the brand isn't super recognizable. Like people will always know Dior, is Christian. Mostly my experiences with the brand is seeing their 1 Million fragrance at every perfume store or kiosk. That golden bottle.

[@understitchYT]

To be fair brands like Dior would use their last name for a lot of ventures or projects well before they fully dropped the 'cristian' it was already called Dior colloquially. Paco Rabanne never really had that before the name drop, so its more jarring

[@RICKYakaZEPHYR]

The 2012 relaunch was a total ripoff of McQueen’s silhouettes in Plato’s Atlantis collection.

[@understitchYT]

I dont personlly agree, that kind of semi-formal silhoutte was already popularised by then in brands like burberry prorsum, I just think it was too generic for the time

[@hansmir5443]

Great program 👏👏👏

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much

[@inesnascimento5140]

Could you do a video about self-portrait? Thank you, really love this channel ✨✨

[@understitchYT]

Their branding has been so good, but their price point worries me, maybe theyll make a good video for that reason 🤣

[@skatingmermaid]

26:08 😁 and after a few weeks I can confirm the first impression on the lipstick and I will definitely buy another one and one of those 2 pan eyeshadows!

[@understitchYT]

I really want to get some for myself

[@debspringchannel831]

Love your content, can you possibly cover Escada, Thierry Mugler, Ninna Ricci?

[@understitchYT]

Oh allll of the above, I adore Harris Reed at Nina Ricci so much

[@leoniebelle709]

i’d love for you to do a video on versace 🥺

[@understitchYT]

Oh I definitely will one day

[@peterjason4491]

Wonderful video

[@understitchYT]

Thank you

[@managhurlish]

I am so glad this video exists because not too long ago, after scrolling through their Instagram page, did I come to the realization that the brand had become too stagnant and is still relying on Paco's signature patterns and styles in almost all their campaigns and heavily in their accessories instead of innovating on his early ideals, especially in metal wear......in a world where that was the goal, Gianni would not have been the one to create oroton.....I just hope they focus on innovating the use of unorthodox materials in a grand style for their couture to put them back on the map.....I want them to go the Viktor and Rolf route : put on very splashy, innovate couture shows and stop focusing too much on being commercial, to make the beauty and fragrance offering more desirable, as you already alluded to. Honestly, I love the boho style for their rtw line and would like it if it is made the central style of the rtw, mixed a bit with the retrofuturism style as a differentiator. Anyways, thank you for an enjoyable watch♥️

[@understitchYT]

I agree with what you said but I think the opposite would work best. Id love to see a development of disposable clothes instead of couture. Not plastic or damaging clothes, but something like compostable flip flops or even glasses. I think itd be so innovative to see something that fits with the overconsumption without causing as much lasting damage

[@managhurlish]

@@understitchYT Well, we can all at least agree that we want to see innovation from the house. Rabanne, in my eyes, is too synonymous with inovation (love this word lol😂), tech and science, that seeing it in this repetitivly static state honestly frustrates me. Unlike many sleeping beauty heritage houses out there, I think of Rabanne as one of the few perfect ones, as in, it does not take so much to live up to Mr. Rabanne's legacy because his house DNA is an open book: simply make the unwearable wearable and chic, and gag the fashion world while doing so. For any creative director not to be able to live up to this unrestrictive legacy is sad to see. Mr. Rabanne achieved so much with very little effort (comparatively), because his goal was innovative chic, and I'll be happy to see this house code lived up to in any possible way (though, I would love to see it done at the highest form of fashion, in my opinion. Let's imagine a world where Rabanne gives us couture week blockbuster ✨innovative✨ clothes, and ✨ innovative✨ disposable clothes for rtw, what do you think?😅)

[@saint9715]

i remember people being upset when Saint Laurent dropped “Yves”

[@understitchYT]

Thats what started the trend yeah

[@laureldreams]

they need a statement bag, they can conveniently place the perfume in there or even make a mini bag for their perfume

[@understitchYT]

I was about to disagree, but imagine if they made a chainmail bag SPECIFICALLY for one of the perfumes, Id wear the crap out of that

[@EXOL_1485]

You decided to release two(!) Videos on the day I move to a new house. I'm late aa

[@understitchYT]

Oh nooooo I wouldve released three if I had known, just so you can listen when you unpack

[@EXOL_1485]

@understitchYT that's so nice of you aaa. I've unpacked everything while streaming all your vids already!

[@zaasfromparis]

I worked with their team and the problem is that the collections looks very cheap, they try to follow trends without following following them which is very confusing, They hire very shitty store managers , in Paris most of their clerks left for other brands. Customer service is awful. It’s very painful to see because the legacy is incredible

[@understitchYT]

Oh interesting that their store managers are leaving, I didnt know this. On the topic of quality though, I really adore my shirt from 2021, it’s such a beautifully sturdy cotton and I wear it very regularly. Actually, since I made this video I have bought a tie from the brand and Im very happy with that too

[@JustFred.]

@understitch, could you please do an episode on Olivier Rousteing and Balmain ? Pretty Please lol 🤣 Great Video btw.

[@understitchYT]

Would make an interesting video, but I don’t know if theyre buzz worthy enough

[@massimosquecco8956]

Around 08:29, for what I know, 1 or 2 Barbarella costumes were bought chez Rabanne "without" is official involvement, all the rest was not from his atelier. I believe, but not sure, that the green corset is actually his. What I well remember is when they stopped the production of Metal: people went literally crazy, and become apt to anything to buy the last original bottles. It was funny because a friend of my fell in the frenzy, and short after an article appeared on US Vogue about this scarcity. We were still in the pre-internet era, so I cannot imagine how huge was the rabid search for this peculiar scent. Everybody talks about Angel, Opium, Chanel 5, for me Metal was really addictive. You are absolutely right about Arora: this was a huge misyake of incompetent managers, for sure! For me, born when he started his business, and student of arts, he will be always dear to me because of a HC collection of the 80s (86?87?88?) when he put on the catwalk 4 models walking together with the reproduction of a painting of George de la Tour fraction in 4. With Metal, this is why he is so dear to me. Forgot to mention his New Age lectures he made here in Amsterdam which were sensational. Couldn't came in, because it was overly packed, but the papers had written about for weeks: nobody had enough at that point in time...

[@massimosquecco8956]

PS Good report lady: I really wish to buy clothes from them, but until now they had too expensive items or rubbish. The Marketeers are the culprits, as always are, and Lanvin is the best exemple since Claude Montana times... till now. They shoud make studies on the University about the mistakes in that enterprice, where the name is still so big that almost hides the management incompetence!

[@understitchYT]

I read a lot about Barbarella to make sure it was all correct and as it was truly none of it was Rabanne and the green number I included soecifically in this video because the video on screen is the costumiers that made it, that is the original. I dont think Ive ever smelt Metal, I would really love to, I know it has an incredible following Im so glad you enjoyed the video 🥰

[@indradavis1713]

My mother wore Metal. It smelled like a bus station, like 10:45 aluminum and exhaust fumes- but fancy. It gave me headaches. She loved it.

[@photokunstler]

It’s so nebulous figuring out what PR ends up being, all most of think of is the metal pallets dresses and/or the metal hoods. I really want them to do well but man, it’s just so hard to see. where they are going. I thought for a little bit in the early 2020s that they were having a moment, but no I have no idea what they are representing. I really hope they stick around for a while longer.

[@understitchYT]

I think truthfully those ring dresses are just so hard to sell, theyre trying to diversify, but I dont know how smart theyre being about it

[@matsudaseiko]

THE FETISH KING WE BRITS JUST LOVED HIM !!!! ^0^

[@understitchYT]

Hahahha

[@Chloe-vi5mb]

I only know of paco rabanne from their 1million perfume advert it’s a horrible perfume but genius marketing

[@understitchYT]

I wonder if itll ever push past that

[@hansmir5443]

This line was amazing. But the crazy is that they went the way Pier Cardin did! Just put a label on any thing and sell it! Eventually it cheapened the line. I don’t see any fashion in their clothing. I think they are using AI. 😂😂

[@understitchYT]

I'm so upset about pierre cardin honestly, one of the best 60s designers

[@SamueLewis1991]

can you do a video one day on giorgio armani nobody talks much of him

[@understitchYT]

Id love to, itll certainly be a big project tho, may be a while, Im working on two big projects concurrently rn

[@FNFNFN99KKK]

Can you make a video about Gigi Hadid's Guest In Residence?

[@understitchYT]

I keep thinking of it, Im between a few celeb brands though, brad Pitt’s, atelier jolie, guest in resodence, house of dereon and lamb

[@delthomas6479]

YOU sound like you could fix them. Go on.... Make yourself available - for the right fee of course. 😊

[@understitchYT]

Im perceptive and I have good ideas in general because of that, I think I could help consult in that regard, but heading a legacy company like this is such a huge responsibility with so many people to please, itd be a hard learning curve for sure

[@delthomas6479]

@@understitchYT I understand what you mean. However, never be intimidated by anyone or anything's size. Remember the biblical story of David and Goliath. It's not about size, it's the belief and determination. I've never met you but from watching your videos, it's clear your extremely knowledgeable and capable and I and many others belive in you. You don't need to please everyone, only the ones that matter - including yourself. All learning, no matter how hard, is a good thing. Now, go write a pitch and present it to them. (This will be baby food for you). You'll be the best thing that ever happened to them. Best foot forward and good luck. You got this. 😊

[@manuelcoria4255]

they should hire me as cd

[@understitchYT]

You’d have to fight me for that job

[@murrvvmurr]

Vous m'avez dit de pas dire (silent H)ardy!

[@understitchYT]

Comme le ‘s’ dans yves 🤷

[@aaronjanlistanco]

same fate of FERRAGAMO that should be stay the name of SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

[@understitchYT]

Oh 1000000% percent, ferragamo should not have changed names

[@uschilou]

❤

[@understitchYT]

🤍

[@gogocarter_]

.

[@understitchYT]

,

[@hawksandsparrows]

That horrid Miley song is called Doctor not Nurse😂

[@understitchYT]

Maybe it shouldve been dentist 🤣🤣

[@organicsludgeqt7037]

I was with you until the AI, metaverse stuff. That would be a disaster for them, and does not appeal to the current generation, at all. It’s seen as tacky and gimmicky.

[@understitchYT]

I think someone needs to break that barrier into it being cool, I mean itll eventually happen anyway, and Rabanne seems to be in a good place to try for it

[@dawnsalois]

Metal was lovely. Light floral and feminine. Drew men like a pile of cash in the street. Didnt smell like food, sorry.

[@understitchYT]

Hard to launder though 🤣