The Rise and Rise of Dior

Dior has been on the brink of collapse so many times. From Yves to Galliano, to not one but two failing investors, the brands history is fraught with difficulties.Today this seems impossible, as one of the biggest brands on the market today and a very loyal following Dior seems untouchable. Especially with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones together as major names in themselves, it seems Dior is once again at the top of the pyramid (of Giza)
#dior #kimjones #christiandior
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch

[@understitchYT]

To watch the Dior Cosmetics video for all their history with that (including the Johnny Depp trials) click here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGrZf6p-hbGHq6s

[@gdanielpv]

I'm not a fan of Maria Grazia, but I can't deny she's doing her job, Wich ultimately is sell and make money. The art, risk and spectacle that Galliano and even Raf did with the brand would never be seen again in a march of embroidery dresses that are loved by the masses but are very far aways from a real couture world.

[@understitchYT]

I dont really understand why she is so disliked really, I think he is a very talented designer, I dont get why so many people arent a fan 🤷🏼‍♂️ I agree that raf and galliano at design were incredible, galliano was a true couturist while raf really understood how to modernise the classic motifs of the brand, cant wait to see where they go from here

[@jamesscalise4990]

@@understitchYT I mean she just makes old lady clothes, it's boring. Which sells haha, but if you're enthusiastic about the art of design she's not really who I'd look for. And I feel like I've tried with her.

[@understitchYT]

@@jamesscalise4990 Oh really? I always thought of it as just a vision of women that wanted to express femininity in a way thats not overtly sexual. Like Taylor Swift's early days but less country (does this make sense?)

[@jamesscalise4990]

@@understitchYT To me, Valentino is also doing that in a way that's a lot more boundary-pushing and smart. Still super romantic but not in a bland way

[@understitchYT]

​@@jamesscalise4990 I still see Valentino as more male gaze, its very floaty and feminine instead of overtly sexual, but theres something about it that reads like it's not from a womens pov, even though I know a lot of that DNA also came from Maria Grazia (and I really do love Pierre Paulo)

[@KellyfromMemphis]

Christian Dior literally was fashion from 1947-1962… all levels of society/retail copied Mr. Dior…best years of fashion in my opinion.

[@understitchYT]

He really was an absolute genius

[@agakozowska4928]

I can't express how much I admire your work! As someone who is following fashion trends, history and wrote a lot about it in academic terms this blows me away! The amount of time and skills needed to prepare each video... WOW! Watched almost all. So many inspirations, thank U. Waiting impatiently for all what's coming next 🖤

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much, I’m so glad that you enjoyed the videos, by the time the next video is out, I think it will be mid fashion week, as in two weeks time, so hopefully there will be videos on some exciting brands

[@sexydirrtymoney]

From a design standpoint, Dior is at the top of their game currently. But I have to say...as a consumer of Dior, the QUALITY of the products is not proportionate to the high price paid (which is the same problem with any luxury brand nowadays). It's really FAST FASHION for the wealthy!

[@understitchYT]

Literally over 50 or 60% of the comments I have on my Chanel videos about how the quality has dropped. It’s definitely not a Dior exclusive, Prada is having complaints, Gucci have had complaints. The only brand that I have not heard quality control complaints from is bottega Venetta 🤷

[@heartgappedteeth]

i’m currently a fashion student at a performing arts high school and your channel has helped me so much! From fashion history to timelines i’m really starting to learn so much from your videos and they come in handy during class. Love your videos, keep doing what you do!

[@understitchYT]

Thats such a kind thing to readc thank you so much and Im so glad to be of help to you and your studies 😇 where are you studying? (Like what city)

[@pacoceja4659]

I don't know about RISE and RISE, but certainly RISE and survive! Since John Galliano left, this brand has yet to capture THE WORLD! just as it did, when Galliano was at the helm. 🤷

[@understitchYT]

Idk Dior is one of the most talked about, esp with the resurrection of their monogram and with their new bags going hugely viral

[@alyssarikka9974]

Galliano was sooo talented with Dior!

[@understitchYT]

He truly was, what an awful end though

[@saravergara6636]

Was the Golden Edge of Dior!

[@seanyeo5514]

@mignoncat1 she was the prototypical social justice warrior - her ego was fed by bringing down people she perceived as undeservedly powerful with the use of identity politics. How striking it was that it occured at around the time social media was really blowing up on a global scale and giving such people a voice.

[@jzz6342]

Dior by Maria Grazia is basic, boring, replicable and not necesasarily pretty (some silhouettes, cuts, and ornamentation don't look fancy or aesthetic). Buts just my opinion. Also, I understand that she has achieved good sales, but having good sales is not synonymous with quality, and also is not synonymous with customers having good taste, on the contrary, most buy in an "aspirational" way and anything that is "in trend (The same applies to the case of Virginie Viard at Chanel)

[@understitchYT]

Shes definitely not an extreme designer for sure, not as crazy as many other top designers, but I think she does well for her client, even if her client isnt myself. Saying that I don't think she is as unmemorable as Virginie is

[@jzz6342]

@@understitchYT The difference is that Maria Grazia has a background, which is Valentino, where she did a good job in general (even though she shared the creative direction of the house with Pier Paolo). Virginie's case is different, although she did her job well as director of the Chanel workshops, her work as a designer is downright mediocre. Probably the perception that we all have of Maria Grazia, as "super basic/boring/ugly", is because compared to what previous Dior designers did, hers seem to be designs that anyone else who has a fashion (design) background could do. But if we forget that it is the house of Dior, we would probably "accept" his work in a better way. Finally, about Chanel, I would like Natacha Ramsay-Levi like crative director, I really like her work in Chloé, and I would like to see what he could do with the budget and possibilities that a big house like Chanel has.

[@understitchYT]

@@jzz6342 I really agree, Chanel is so creatively disinteresting and has been for a while really. I'd be happy with Natacha, it's definitely be along the same lines but refreshed. Or I really would kill to see Craig Green there and reinvent the quilting aspect of the design, which is something Coco brought to the brand many decades ago, butcould be expanded on to modernise the brand I think

[@jzz6342]

@@understitchYT Bertrand Guyon (ex Schiaparelli) would be other good option for Chanel, I like his work in Schiaparelli. I miss the Karl Lagerfeld shows. Even in those collections where the designs were not the most interesting, the whole performance (set design, background music, etc.) elevated the experience. But even Karl's "lazier" collections are better than Virginie's in my opinion.

[@understitchYT]

@@jzz6342 Yeah for sure, he really reinvented Chanel back in the 80s and kept it up for a few decades before the clothes got tiring, but as that happened the sets got phenomenally big to offset it. It was a clever way to keep the product that sells while getting the press that a show provides

[@patrice7p]

Love your videos and your articulate , pleasant yet sharp narrative

[@understitchYT]

Tysm. im so glad you enjoyed the video 💖

[@namelesss7354]

We need a rise & fall & rise of John Galliano! (He definitely deserves his spot at Margiela)

[@understitchYT]

He has his own label so he is very much on my list

[@KaTheMagician]

@@k0bb ha the best are usually "mentally unstable in some way" I am a fine artist and Picasso, Bacon, and Basquiat all had their obvious demons but still absolute cream of the crop not making excuse just seems to be something that's built into the DNA of maverick level creatives for better or worse *coughs* Kanye

[@KaTheMagician]

@@k0bb There is no plea these people absolutely are who the are and it is what is

[@KaTheMagician]

@@k0bb true

[@tramline31]

LOVE you commentary! Please could you do one on Schiaparelli?

[@understitchYT]

I’m so far behind on editing and scripting, where I should be, but Schiaparelli is on my original list for the upcoming few weeks, whether we will get to see it during fashion week, or after, is up to pure time at this point because when I tell you I have not stopped in MONTHS Im not kidding 🤣😂

[@tramline31]

@@understitchYT omg hi! Take your time, I will be front and centre whenever your Schiaparelli one comes out haha. I love your approach to these videos - credit where it’s due, dragging when it’s necessary 😭😂 looking forward to your future video drops x

[@jhoover3098]

I keep meaning to ask, have you read Miss Dior by Justine Picardie? It’s ostensibly a bio of Christian Dior’s sister, and her work for the French Résistance in WWII. But it’s also a book about how the couture houses survived the war. It’s unique, and priceless. I think you would enjoy it if you’ve not read it :)

[@understitchYT]

Oh that’s so interesting, I love reading, I will definitely try to pick this up

[@muchumoja]

I found a lot of criticism/ comparison to Galliano during Raf’s period at Dior but let me tell you going into the Dior store while Raf was at the helm was breathtaking. That was all it took for me to become a fan. Everything looked so sleek, sharp and just…expensive!

[@understitchYT]

I really agree, Raf era Dior was so clean, but I can understand why that didnt fit with their mostly maximalist, mostly feminine leaning customer and why he got the criticism he did. But if you take it for what it is, its extremely impressive as an interpretation

[@just_cade]

I think Kim Jones is doing a great job, but MGC is not. The Dior woman is _supposed_ to be high romance, drama, and innovation. Her designs are not exciting or unique, nor are they very feminine or innovative.

[@understitchYT]

I honestly think its a male vs female gaze thing. I see male gaze femininity like in Valentino (love) and female gaze femininity in Dior - both totally valid points of view ofc, but its something we rarely get to see in high high fashion so it’s exciting to me

[@fashionmusings]

love this series on different designers! dior has definitely gone through its changes and evolution for sure. great video :)

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much! Youre right Dior has changed so much to get where it is, and ut still keeps the house codes which I find so interesting

[@flazada]

I am not the biggest fashion girly....... however I keep binge watching these videos! I'm OBSESSED! Thank you for the education!

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you like them! And thank you for commenting again, I really appreciate it 🥰

[@69newfish]

Maria Grazia is the worst designer that Dior has ever had.

[@understitchYT]

I don’t think so, she’s very simple, but at least it is her interpretation of the original codes of the house, she doesn’t feel the need to show excess to get her vision across

[@theunpopularbeauty4744]

9:06 That's strange because in Japan and in the Sinosphere here we LOVEEEEEEE SS07 Geisha Couture. If you don't believe me, a nobody from East Asia, you can take a look at YYYOKOOO's reaction video "We stan John Galliano's Geisha Haute Couture Collection for Dior". And next time, please don't try to be offended for the culture you are not familiar with, you may find it cool, but the people in that cultural sphere certainly do not. We have our own voices, if there's an issue, we will be the first to speak.

[@understitchYT]

Youre totally right that theres not a lot of complaint about that sort of thing from Asia (I lived in Korea for 7 years, so I know this from first hand experience). However, the second generation in the west is still sensitive towards this, especially things like the sexualisation of asian cultures. So, youre right that its not offensive to all, but its still has received retrospective critique because of its tokenism

[@Psychosisproject]

Maria is making Dior money. But in my opinion, she is just as bland as Sarah Burton for McQueen and Virgini Viard for Chanel. And she is ruining the brand with her version of Valentino 2.0

[@understitchYT]

That’s so funny, I really enjoy Sarah, and I enjoy Maria, I think they both bring their own perspective to their brands, I wasn’t keen on either at first, but they grew on me

[@Psychosisproject]

@understitch, their own brand is so far off base that sometimes it seems almost disrespectful to Christian and Lee. I don't want minor references sprinkled here and there for labels like that. Give me fantasty. I will say Sarah Burtons menswear for McQueen is breathtaking. But everything MGC has designed for the most part has been garbage. The only collections that were like "okay" were resort 2023, spring 2021 couture, fall 2020 couture, spring 2018 couture, and spring 2017 couture. She's done 39 collections so far. And 5/39 is definitely not a passing grade in my book.

[@lenuag]

You' re really good. Thank for you videos, thank for precious voice and all your work. It's always a pleasure, to learn many things about Fashion, designer... I wish you the best ! Love from France ! PS : The last Dior Men fashion show was incredible !

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much! Thats such a kind compliment, I get so self conscious about my voice 😅

[@patrice7p]

I hope Dior will keep the feminine, waist accentuated silhouette. Being a curvy hourglass, this silhouette fits my body best, feminism or not…

[@understitchYT]

Feminism is just equity. Its inclusive of the right to choose everything onesself. If you like it and you chose it freely, its feminism

[@Hashisan_Murakami]

John Galliano did it better tbh ❤

[@understitchYT]

From a design standpoint, he is such a talented designer for sure, his point of view is so unique and captivating while being so technically innovatove

[@JozefEtienne]

Love the video but honestly hate MGC work at Dior. It’s sells so I guess she’s doing good in theory but it is unimaginable dull and even tacky at times.

[@understitchYT]

I never really understood why she was so widely disliked (though ofc everyone is entitled to their opinion), I think she is good for dior, and I think she speaks to, their female demographic really well,

[@69newfish]

Btw That look from Rihanna on the Met gala (8:51) is not from Galliano’s Dior, that’s him for Margiela

[@marcusvalino5031]

your really great at what you do..keep it up with the video's plz n thx

[@Kinglystateof]

FASHIONDAY SUNDAY HERE AT UNDERSTITCH!!!

[@understitchYT]

FASH-UNDAY

[@hosnythegreat2599]

Thanks for the info Madam!

[@understitchYT]

Thanks for watching

[@rebel063]

When the Dior menswear is better than the womenswear 🥴

[@understitchYT]

Same with Fendi, they both have much stronger mens, although I actually really enjoy MGCs Dior, I know it’s not for everyone

[@karolinakuc4783]

11:42 I think this one is fine. And I think that Spring Couture 2012 is beautiful

[@understitchYT]

Thats fair, fashion aesthetically is objective 🥰

[@Sonmmmxuan]

i don't care what anyone said, spring 2012 was one of Dior's best couture collection

[@Soda3000Pop]

I love John Galliano ❤

[@understitchYT]

Hes very talented

[@Soda3000Pop]

I love the Dior monogram bag, hope to see a lot more of them!❤

[@understitchYT]

They make such beautiful things

[@user-tk3fx6lu5u]

I absolutely love your videos. Where do you recommend watching high quality videos of old shows? The sources you use are so crisp!

[@understitchYT]

I tried to leave everyone’s watermark on, so you can find it, but I really heavily recommend FashionTV or FTV on KZbin

[@mariposa1933]

That runway in Egypt is the best runway show I’ve ever seen. Epic.

[@understitchYT]

It really was so spectacular

[@emanuelcarvalho8510]

kim on the mens line is doing AMAZING I never watch the mens fashion season, tbh.... but Dior is the only show that I always look forward to watch, and he always deliver

[@KaTheMagician]

Kim is insane you can see the craftmanship in the cuts as soon as you look

[@understitchYT]

He really is very talented, Im glad he has managed to transfer that to Dior, I think its more successful than his work at Louis. But I cant put my finger on why that is? Maybe the lighter colour palette, maybe his design is more matured now, maybe its the team around him??

[@KaTheMagician]

@@understitchYT very good question compared to other extremely talented designers it's almost like you can feel something else coming off and through the clothes that I don't have an explanation for similar to Marine in that way

[@understitchYT]

@@KaTheMagician Back in the vuitton days I would've disagreed because it was so hit and miss for me, but these days he seems to be really doing a great job and it looks like his design style really matches what they were looking for - actually to me it looks like a great extension of the work Kris was doing, which I. appreciate because I always loved his work

[@a.senayzenebe481]

The women's line at Dior is not at all a fan fav nor does it make the delight of critics or potential clients. Considering Dior's advertising budget how accurate (or truthful) is the mainstream media's/connaisseurs'' take on the women's line? Their accessories are generally dope and have always been. However, the idea that you can't put out creative collections each season that push the aesthetic boundairies that keep the interest of the customer/audience and still make wearable and innovative products for the shops has been debunked over and over by others (eg: McQueen for McQueen, Galliano for Dior and Marc Jacobs for MJ or LV ). So what's the women's line for Dior's excuse? The reality is these houses have big budgets, so we expect more. In my opinion the women's line at Dior is disappointing to say the least. Ps: Raf was magic for Dior's womenswear

[@understitchYT]

Creative and commercial don’t tend to be easily done simultaneously, it really does take a true genius to do that

[@saravergara6636]

SORRY BUT egyptian Haute Couture 04 Colletion of Gallianos was the most beautifull and unique show in Dior's history

[@understitchYT]

It was absolutely beautiful, and I remember enjoying it at the time, but in retrospect, I don’t think it would fly today

[@Y_ang423]

Always love to see your updates and all your videos are so well made. Would love to hear what your thoughts are on Thom Browne. It has been my favourite brands for a decade and after joining Zegna, something had changed but I couldn’t pinpoint what. Something is different.

[@understitchYT]

Youre about to be very happy come couture week 🤌

[@sigisings]

I've said this before, but Raf had a better sense of what the house meant and how to modernize it. In the the shadow of Galliano, he could hardly survive the pressure and comparisons. Today, his work looks so much fresher and exciting to that of Maria Grazia. That's not say she's a bad designer. I think she'd be ideal at Fendi, for instance. LMVH would survive just fine if allowed one brand to be NOT commercial.

[@understitchYT]

Raf’s work was vefore its time, it just was not appreciated enough at all and its such a shame, I can only imagine how hard that mustve been on him to have bad reviews in a row despite his really innovative collections. I agree that MGC would be great at Fendi definitley, but I do enjoy her Dior, it definitely fills that gap that we have at the moment, and somehow shes managed to make buzz (both good and bad) around really quite simple clothes. I can see why she is so successful definitely. Though, someone else commented that she wouldnt be as impactful at a less famous label and i think that they had a point too. Its the brands history and her context within it that I find interesting

[@sigisings]

@@understitchYT did you happen to see the DIOR: Designer of Dreams show? Several of MCG's creations were on display, the simplest pieces in the show. Overall, it was really wonderful to see these clothes up close, and also the 'Toiles' , which were in themselves works of art. So much of what bills itself as Couture today is simply overpriced RTW! That's fine. Just call it what it is.

[@understitchYT]

@@sigisings I didnt see it and I really want to, Id love to see the toiles in person, I find their process so fascinating

[@sigisings]

@@understitchYT It really is. The Fashion Institute of Technology Museum then presented an exhibition of DIOR and BALENCIAGA, with side by side comparisons by the original designers through Galliano and Nicolas Ghesquiere. A fascinating show!

[@understitchYT]

@@sigisings Im sure I can catch pictures online if I dont get to go because it sounds so COLLDDDD

[@BerzinskyRules]

I come back to Spring 2012 Couture collection often for its quiet, luxe glamour.

[@Contessa_Savannah]

The era of Galliano is unforgettable. Between him and McQueen fashion in the late 90s and early 2000s was an artistic experience that still delivered amazing fashion. How he went out was such disgrace and disappointment.

[@understitchYT]

Especially after the fashion world moved mountains to make him successful in the first place

[@JesseLCH]

mgc is trash but kim jones is otherworldly and brought a jolt of life to dior homme

[@understitchYT]

In my head I read this as Machine Gun Kelly and was very confused 💀💀

[@cookiesarelikeaboss]

Make a video about Kim Jones please. i personally find his design style is visible in all his work, a blend of creative concepts with subtle wearable execution and attention to detail. Would like to know more about the designer's rise as he has been appointed to creatively lead multiple large fashion houses in recent years.

[@understitchYT]

I think he is really interesting too. I dont have a series designated to designers yet, but I definitely have that in the pocket for the future

[@TheDiamondLife90]

not offensive - xtra FABULOUS!

[@understitchYT]

💃🏼

[@zanekhpsa3543]

Please do the rise of Yves saint Lauren

[@understitchYT]

I have to!

[@liliisnolili]

i got intersted in diors history after jimin became their global ambassador so thank youu so much for this, it`s a very good video!!!

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed it! I think Jimin fots in fairly well with Kims vision too 🥰

[@KaTheMagician]

It may be an obvious/choice request and I don't know if you are working on it but could you please do a video on HBA (Hood By Air)/Shayne Oliver I cannot think of any other young black designers that are as technically skilled and already impactful in the short time that they have existed and would love to hear your take... anyway love this vid and haven't even finished it yet lol nobody cuts suit pants or suits, in general, the way Kim Jones does for skinny guys the aesthetic is chef kiss and I almost cried when I tried everything on it fit so well lol

[@understitchYT]

HBA is on my dhortterm list (as in I want to do it soon) but Im actually really behind for getting ready for fshion week that Im worried I may have to skip a week of upload and if I do I think it might have to be hood by air 😰

[@sarahb7933]

Oh, I second this! Been fascinated by HBA since high school. 😂

[@understitchYT]

@@sarahb7933 you'll be excited by the video Im scripting now 🤫

[@sarahb7933]

@@understitchYT Danggg, let me turn that notifications bell on real quick! Haha. I appreciate your work!

[@KaTheMagician]

@@sarahb7933 that's two votes I love the amount of time and research @understitch puts into each designer feels like taking and elective at CSM, Parsons, Bunka or Antrewp lol

[@LennyCartwright]

I absolutely despise Maria Grazia Chiuri as artistic director for Dior

[@understitchYT]

it seems a lot of people do

[@1000_O]

About the Egyptian themed runways... As an Egyptian myself, I disagree, It is not a secret that Egypt nowadays is not known for having any kind of cultural ties related with arts, fashion etc... I think any kind of approach that elevates Egyptian heritage is totally welcomed as long as its done from a ''cultural appreciation'' perspective and is open to take actual Egyptian's opinions in consideration, it is a country that shined due to their artistry and interesting mythology, that sadly, now is almost completely shattered due to censorships and hateful mindsets that have been implemented... ANYWAY GREAT VIDEO AS ALWAYS!

[@understitchYT]

Youre very much right, its interesting how perspectives can change on stuff in the past, what once was seen as fine can become controversial and then be totally fine again. Its all about how something is labelled and perceived, something which often these brands have no control over. I think if I was to remake this video today, I would make more of a point about that, just because this period was all about the shock factor and selling little clothes on purpose. im glad you lked the video and thank you for your perspective

[@karol72474]

all i know is im super obssessed with their new srping line and im heartbroken i cant afford it, cause that line was like it was created for me, it fits my style so well !

[@understitchYT]

I was actually so impressed with the menswear show, it was surprisingly really well done

[@sawmookabaw]

Raf Simons definitely should come back to Dior again!

[@understitchYT]

Its so upsetting to look back on it now and realise that the world just wasnt ready

[@noewrestle7939]

Hi! Thanks for this really informative video about the brand!! I got curious about the Brand and wanted to know more about it after Jimin became their new global ambassador. Glad I found your video which taught me quite a lot about their history!

[@understitchYT]

Thats great, Im so glad to hear Kpop brought you to me 💕💕

[@CarmenBelcher]

Not a fan of dior women but dior men is so beautiful! I’d wear that

[@understitchYT]

Have you been in store? The womens makes so much more swnse in store

[@blackathena1565]

I'm surprised you didn't talk about the massive influence the documentary, Dior and I! I would also posit that MGC isn't widely loved. I think a few love her, a few hate her and most are ambivalent in that she makes clothes that sell.

[@understitchYT]

It’s a great documentary, fs

[@loriloretta7639]

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, not an insult, particularly in America where we are a melting pot and borrow from other cultures all the time, that's how we learn and grow. Is a Japanese chef who prepares French cuisine guilty of culture appropriation, I think not.

[@loriloretta7639]

although I unfortunately am aware most people would disagree with my opinion! Hope none of you have ever worn a Kaftan!!! You bad cultural appropriators!!! LMFAO

[@understitchYT]

Cultural appropriation at the moment is having another wave of critique, people are saying that it is gatekeeping creation, I think it’s an interesting take, I’m glad that I have watched several TikTok‘s on it to understand some opinions, because it really made me think

[@jenniferariesta6464]

@@understitchYT you made such awesome videos (i’m binging them atm!) but yeah, the bit about cultural appropriation is too simplistic. I don’t think Galliano set out to riddicule those cultures he celebrated on his designs, despite his other dodgy behaviors. I would be proud to see my culture shown off in the global stage like that.

[@flymetotheup9904]

Jisoo top the top fashion influencer with $180 millions MIV for fashion week 2023 so far. Blackpink is big in fashion world not just fashion they become global brand ambassador from toothpaste, electronic, game, automobiles, food brand it's piling up.

[@understitchYT]

That is the Korean way with sponsorships. Unfortunately, they do so many that it comes across as quite inauthentic to westerners, but its very normalised in korea

[@venusdoom90]

How is taking very prominent parts of some cultural aesthetic and reinventing it offensive? I never understood that, If anything it should be flattering. Besides since when someone 'owns' a certain aesthetic anyway? Cultural differences SHOULD be given an omage to and celebrated, I hate how sensitive fashion world has become.

[@understitchYT]

I think its kind of case by case wether it reads as appreciative or appropriating tbh, its a tough line to walk

[@MaisonLafitte]

Well said. Elevating come parts of some cultures esthetic by other cultures is normal in civilisation of the West. That is why it's so creative - there are so many styles and esthetics.

[@jenniferariesta6464]

Hear hear

[@jamesscalise4990]

Also, Diors revenue isn't actually 53 billion with the brand alone. That's factoring in Dior SE's its stake in LVMH. Dior on its own certainly makes less than 15B

[@understitchYT]

And that figure is from LVMH so it's definitely framed that way to make them look good

[@kylesosa3562]

No, business of fashion had a segment about how LVMH is building its own Chanel challenger in house with its rapid revenue rising in the last 5 years it almost has a revenue of 8 Billion Euros while Chanel has a revenue of 16 Billion Euros.

[@understitchYT]

@@kylesosa3562 I meant the figure that I used in the video

[@jamesscalise4990]

@@kylesosa3562 yes, I’m aware. This vid said Dior has 52B in revenue when Dior’s is much lower than that

[@kylesosa3562]

@@understitchYT Yeah I also recall in one of your older videos you said Bernard Arnault is ruining fashion by buying up all these fashion houses but also don't forget most of the brands were dying out e.g on the brink of bankruptcy and some losing popularity when he bought them he actually brought them to the level they are on the only exceptions are those in which he tried hostile takeovers and failed such as Gucci and Hermes and the ones he acquired actually needed it or it's doubtful they would be relevant or heck even present today.

[@justme-fe2sf]

Thank you for one more lovely video. I personally am not fond of Maria Grazia and her work which to me at least says very little Dior, but perhaps their sales are good and if they are who am I to argue?

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed it :)

[@justme-fe2sf]

@@understitchYT I enjoy all your videos they are so well researched , produced and relevant .

[@understitchYT]

@@justme-fe2sf thats so kind, thank you so much :)

[@Angelina6518]

I miss their classic cotton knit men’s pajamas. Can’t find them anywhere!

[@understitchYT]

Thats such a shame!

[@jettookoff]

the way you glanced over hedi...

[@understitchYT]

I would like to do a whole video on Dior Homme/Mens tbh

[@jettookoff]

@@understitchYT can't wait

[@dharling97]

Not gonna lie, I took an interest in your channel and videos, when Park Jimin joined them. Watching a bunch of different videos, and they are so interesting and well made, even for people like me that knows little to nothing about fashion 😅

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad that you find my videos accessible, fashion can be quite haughty, so I wanted to avoid that while not losing any of the information

[@thejokerking9268]

As a man, I don’t like some of the popular luxury sections they have for us. A lot of “old money” style luxury brands like Hermes and Dior are either 3 styles: Streetwear culture, Gay-coded, or fem-coded which target what I feel women would want men to wear. None of the styles I find fitting for a more traditional masculine style. There aren’t any sophisticated ideas being brought to the table which is a shame to me.

[@understitchYT]

The menswear market in the west is simply too small for them to cater the range to the western clientele. Nearly every brand at this size produces menswear for the asian market where a much higher percentage of the male demographic actively buys luxury goods. What youre saying is feminine, gay coded or streetwear is largely based on what those brands think their asian customer will like. If you're not into it, why not stick to brands that more directly target you?

[@thejokerking9268]

@@understitchYT I can’t find any brands that target towards me. That’s the problem

[@janey5338]

Jisoo x Dior 💖

[@Oscar-gp8em]

Galliano did not design the Lady Dior bag. Ferret did. Not sure where this mistake comes from.

[@understitchYT]

Made this video a long time ago, but pretty sure I said that yeah. But it wasn't widely popular until Diana carried it at the Met event when she wore the first Galliano Dior dress. So he didn't design it, but he was the CD when it became popularised

[@jenniferariesta6464]

8:57 never get why nowadays we look back at fashion inspired by the many diverse culture in the world as negative. Art and creativity should be boundless. I dont think the designer set out to diminish those cultures when he made the looks. In fact, it was being celebrated.

[@understitchYT]

I dont think the darkening of the models skin can be excused tho 😬

[@alejandromolinac]

You know people tan?….. since I am vaguely Mediterranean…. I can be super pale ….. spend a week in South Beach I get dark!…. And it’s a show!

[@petzezos]

I really wonder why the consumers buy M. Grazia's clothes. Is it because the DIOR logo is more attractive than the lifeless designs themselves? There is no fun or fantasy in her collections, except for some WOKE contradictive messages like "Capitalism is not her" at their latest show. I mean Maria Grazia is "FIGHTING" capitalism being the head director of THE MOST luxurious PARIS brands out there!! And she get praised from every major media publication for that "social justice" bs ( sorry the language my dear @understitch ) . Meanwhile if you read the KZbin comments under her collections, people are tearing her clothes to SHREADS!! (except of course for some timid consumers who always cheer for anything labeled).

[@understitchYT]

People are often vitriolic to work they dont understand, if the comments under the videos are frustrating, I recommend not reading them. She does her job, she has transferred the Dior aesthetic into something very commercial and yet discussion achieving, so even though its not as creative previous CDs its certainly successful

[@petzezos]

@@understitchYT Actually i like reading people's comments there is a RAW reality in them. I simply cannot understand the fuss about what she brings in the table that is so successful/unique/praised. And believe me when i say this i want to understand this success. What am i missing here? Cause at the end of the day all i see is a perfect, co-ordinated & well oiled "social media" machine that pushes every SAFE collection she presents, while every established fashion critic has only good things to say. She should be praised instead for keeping things safe/same/simple in the house and not as a fashion/revolutionary pioneer of some sort.

[@hansmir5443]

Galliano run out of ideas and went crazy

[@KireDale87]

I have to say, this is the first time I'm hearing Galliano's Egypt collection being considered offensive. It's still being actively revered on social media and in pop culture in general as the epitome of '00s ornate luxury. The culture it references is a dead culture...and it's not a culture that's been eradicated by Western colonialism, like Inca or Aztek cultures. This makes it just as offensive as referencing classical greek and Roman cultures. I can see how by today's standards it can be considered too costumy, but offensive and appropriating? I'm not convinced.

[@understitchYT]

Theres a lot to this one obviously because it is an ancient culture and egypt currently profits from it still, so I can see arguements for both sides

[@jonathanlatouche7013]

Same exact any better

[@merc7paul]

Only reason I even looked at Dior was pop smoke..rip

[@ImaneBou30]

Maria gracia is killing Dior

[@understitchYT]

She’s making a lot of profits for them

[@asourpo1yphony]

I miss galliano for dior...

[@understitchYT]

It was incredible, have you seen any irl? Like in a museum? It's just breathtaking

[@asourpo1yphony]

@understitchYT I wish! Only fashion exhibition i went to was schaparelli in NY which was also amazing

[@understitchYT]

@@asourpo1yphony Oh then I'm jealous of you, I've not seen an original Schiap irl yet, but there's still time

[@zeinab9222]

just wanted to say, im egyptian (american) and i dont find the egyptian inspired look offensive at all.

[@understitchYT]

The galliano one? Thats okay, not everyone will find everything offensive, but its still good to be careful

[@ImaneBou30]

RAF Simones was the best designer for Dior since mark bohan

[@understitchYT]

I actually really agree, I really wish that he was more appreciated in his time

[@slavajonsson9773]

How is using ancient Egyptian culture offensive? To who? That culture has been dead since about 30 BC. There's no one to offend.

[@understitchYT]

It’s risky to use another culture to make profit

[@alejandromolinac]

Gee…. Like pants and “heels” which were originally used for horse back riding?….. only the creatively dull and tragically uninteresting utter second hand buzzwords like “cultural appropriation”

[@whynot7802]

The FALL and FALL of dior

[@understitchYT]

You think?

[@4u2nvskin58]

John is the ONLY person who took Dior into an amazing direction. Everyone after him has failed

[@understitchYT]

His Dior time thanks to Arnault changed fashion as we know it today, a truly fascinating period

[@jonathanlatouche7013]

21:208 continent

[@redwithblackstripes]

The egyptian, geisha, and native american lines were absolutely fine, people getting out of their way to get offended on the behalf of others for no reason at all is starting to become really passé...

[@nairobideservesbetter507]

The concert outfits Kim jones designed for BTS are literally my favorite thing ever I honestly was hoping they would become Dior ambassadors not LV and now jimin is a Dior ambassador which is unexpected?!? I was hoping JHOPE would go to Dior he has so many iconic Dior moments!

[@understitchYT]

Yeah I dont think dior have made the best choices for their kpop ambassadors, seemingly just going with the one that moves the most product instead of someone that actually has the same vibe as the company

[@omwisswissam5082]

Wow

[@understitchYT]

Oh wow

[@simochau132]

She still Italian Féminine Désigner

[@understitchYT]

Yeah I see that, shes more italian than the brand has seen before

[@duchessedeberne3909]

I hear Haute le Mode disagree 😂 There is a rumour if you pronounce Maria Grazie three times in front of a mirror at midnight, he appears!

[@understitchYT]

I respect his opinion though. Hes coming at it from a design perspective and Im coming at it from a business perspective. She has merits, but they aren’t necessarily in reinvention

[@GK-up6xz]

The world of fashion would have been richer had Dior never existed

[@understitchYT]

You think so?

[@GK-up6xz]

@@understitchYT what do I know 😂. I feel the path would have been richer if the industry had gone the Balenciaga rather than ‘New Look’… but then again we perhaps wouldn’t have gotten YSL…

[@gordonw4542]

Hi understitch, I can see why Galliano used " I hate Jew and Asian" drunken speak. He was try to break his contract with LVMH because of the huge workload of 32 collection a year consider a normal fashion do at most 3 collection a year. Getting fired was his goal . Although the owner of LVMH is Christian would let it round off his shoulder that could not be said of the close knit jew fashion community in Paris and rich Asian buyers. He Arnault had to fired Galliano before the backlash from those two groups. It is also clear that being designer of Dior is also a political position as the reputation of France.

[@understitchYT]

The more time that goes past the more I think this could be true. Even when Galliano first signed there was huge concern over his wellbeing at this job because it was such a huge task, same with McQueen. Its a lot of pressure, to be the face of a new era of fashion and they got little to no guidance on how to do it. Of course Galliano was paid extremely well and was Arnault’s favourite, but that had really changed by the time he made those statements because in the end Dior wasnt selling. They sold their cash cow bags and perfumes, so they were okay, but the clothese sold very very badly and that must have affected his work environment

[@gordonw4542]

Hi Understitch To understanding a suppose contract that Galliano signed perhaps without a lawyer. We have look at LVMH the publicly traded company. When the profit drop every so lightly, the share of the company drop as well. The share always own by greedy stupid people. Therefore it is critical to push the designer to make more fashion that are saleable to the target market to help perfume and handbag sale. Share company always demand ever increase profit to new level hence Galliano have “make show” on the runway. Galliano contract would be like very draconian. For example a contract 25 years designer service ,a set service standard fee regardless the number collections needed. If the designer decided leave the service on his own accord (he the designer )will cover lost revenue determine by LVMH managment. Its a watertight contract however there a loophole. Getting fired. I think Galliano took advise from a lawyer to get fired. to escape the contract..@@understitchYT

[@alexanderzhukov3773]

There is nothing wrong with galliano collections. The whole history of humanity is all about cultural appropriation in multiple ways. That's how culture works. Nowadays even yoga is considered to be a cultural appropriation

[@understitchYT]

Even if you see nothing wrong with the clothes, the blackface is still pretty obviously bad

[@jonathanlatouche7013]

19:09

[@jonathanlatouche7013]

21:20

[@jonathanlatouche7013]

9:59

[@Asoftenkameshee]

well this aged poorly 🤔

[@Soda3000Pop]

It’s retail suicide to speak negatively about Jewish people, look what happened to Kanye West, he made a comment In going defcon 4 on the Jews, he went from a billionaire to millionaire in one day! It’s stupidity ❤

[@understitchYT]

Its so bigoted

[@bangtanssera]

So happy Jimin officially became a Dior ambassador, the rise of bangtan and rise and rise of dior, slayyyy

[@bzztthundaa]

🖤🖤🖤

[@understitchYT]

❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥

[@zinebzanouba6959]

👍

[@understitchYT]

🤌

[@kham6006]

Nothing offensive about any of his themes -it’s art -grow up

[@understitchYT]

You mean with Kim?

[@4stpm215]

Jisoo should have been on the thumbnail..bts aint even the ga of dior

[@janey5338]

True. Jisoo 💖

[@understitchYT]

Yeah youre right, Ill try to remember to add her when Im back from holiday 💕

[@nadias6435]

I love Maria Grazia's designs. Everything is impeccable and not flashy/tacky. Galliano was like a costume designer on crack. It was a spectacle but it was unwearable and frilly.

[@understitchYT]

I honestly love both, I think they both have their own take on what the codes of the house was, and they interpreted them personally, and I respect that

[@MaisonLafitte]

95% of Galliano Design's were perfectly wearable. Childish comments about everything creative and flamboyant being effect of crack not hard work and great imagination is unnecessary. If you love MGC design then you are very lucky - you can have very similar cloths from your closest supermarket. And white t-shirt with cheesy slogans you can find for a penny online. 😬

[@lilamayoral1031]

Fascinating how the fashion industry is Surviving wokeness..

[@alejandromolinac]

Well these are high end brands…. Most “woke” dummies can’t afford it…. They just whine and look to the internet to learn what they need tl be outraged about….