The Secret oil plug! How to install camshaft bearings and frost plugs

The oil plug most first time builders miss, or don’t know about. Episode 2 of building a small block Chevy start to finish!

[@royosborn7869]

I come here for the content- the glare is NOT a big deal to me. Thanks for the work you do to put these videos together.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for understanding Roy. We will work at getting better.AG

[@TimothyArnott-m7z]

Yea Roy, I'm with you....AG is used to me commenting often, but presentation was never an issue for me.....I'm a seasoned engine builder, AG's CONTENT is what I'm here for.....I dont necessarily need perfect lighting.......unless he's trying to focus on a specific thing......LOVE GOLDS GARAGE!!

[@Mr688895]

Thank you for sharing your process. I have been a mechanic for 35 years and I still enjoy watching someone sharing their experience.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Mr. I am sure i could learn somethings from you as well. AG>

[@edpetrocelli2633]

I wish I had a dollar for every time I saw cam bearings installed with the holes lined up. I do line up the rear hole and split the front holes at 12 o`clock. I was told about cam bearing position about 40 yrs ago before I knew the reasoning for it, the info came from a friend that was buddies with a guy named Jr. Johnson. We all stand on the shoulders of the men who came before us no matter what we build and I think our generation is just as significant as our fathers was. I enjoy your videos very much.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Great comment, thanks Ed.AG

[@mrho4speed]

Thanks for another well done video. The minor glare is nothing compared to the knowledge you are sharing!!!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for your support 4speed.AG

[@billfioretti3013]

Thank you, Alan. More helpful tips. Here's one from me, sir. I see you're using standard coolant block plugs. I've always used radiator-style drain petcocks in place of those. Makes it so much easier when it comes time to drain the coolant. Keep up the great work!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Bill. Yes petcocks are a good idea, i have used them on race engines in the past.AG

[@Richard76-pp6ic]

Thanks Allan. Look forward for the next video..

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Richard, Episode 3 will be published soon.AG

[@100amps]

Great video. Glare wasn't really a problem. Looking forward to the next one(s). It's good to see you actually doing the task which is much better than show and tell after it's done.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks 100, yes, we are learning that, so we do intend to do more of it. We will show as much detail of the build as we can.AG

[@shane-222]

Good choice on stroke, with those iron heads the 3.48 stroke will be a little more rev happy. Don’t be shy on compression and cam size with that light truck!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for commenting Shane.AG

[@mj_slender6717]

Enjoy listening to your knowledge not studio quality videos. Got a fan for life!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Very nice MJ. Thanks for sticking with me. AG

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

AG, I like the little 1/16 hole in the oil passage plug behind the cam gear. I am kinda surprised you are not a fan. I know it ran fine without it but I figure a little more oil back there can't be a bad thing.

[@goldsgarage8236]

good point Ronnie, thanks for commenting. AG

[@James-jn3rb]

hello Mr Gold. I went to The School of Automotive Machinist in Houston Tx. And there they taught us when tapping a hole for a pipe plug, run the tap in till 4 threads are showing. When you do this the pipe plug will end up flush. Just for your benefit. Thank you.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks James, that is a good rule of thumb. I will apply it next time for sure. Thanks for contributing.AG

[@kimmorrison9169]

great video Al, you never see this typically

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Kim. That is why I felt I should point it out. Thanks for watching and commenting.AG

[@yurimodin7333]

great video, no prob about the glare.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Juri, i think we have it fixed now.AG

[@dejock70]

Al the glare was fine. I had no problem watching the video and following along. You're a gentleman and a very conscientious guy. But don't let the commenters lead you around by the nose. You'll never make all of them happy. You don't need to make all of them happy. Take what they say with a grain of salt. Keep doing what you're doing. We all appreciate you. I'm doing my first build. I'm getting my block back from the machine shop any day now. I'll be watching and rewatching I'm sure every video in this series. Thanks for doing this. Now, I also a request/suggestion. Feel free to take mine with a grain of salt. I saw you use the "goop" on the freeze plug. What exactly was the goop??? One thing a lot of you guys take for granted is that we know which goop to use for which application. I know I don't know that at all. So it's a small thing but whenever you're applying something out of a jar or a can or a tube, do us newbies a favor and let us know what it is. I'm scared to death to put the wrong goop in the wrong place so I would really appreciate some direction when it comes to that. Thanks Al!!!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Dejock. First, thanks for your support. For sure, i should have described what "goop" is. It is Permatex Thread Sealant, # 80634. I will show that in the next video. There are other sealants that work also. AG

[@dejock70]

@@goldsgarage8236 Thank you!! This was a good example. I'm not really familiar with that thread sealer product. For that application I would have been guessing whether to use gasket maker, silicone, RTV. I would have guessed wrong maybe. This is not to say I'm shooting in the dark. I read the labels on the different products, Google and KZbin the stuff but sometimes still after all that I'm not 100% sure what to use. That comes with the experience that I don't have yet. Might even be a good subject for a standalone video. Black, grey, red gasket maker. Blue, red, orange, purple thread lockers, anti-seize, RTV, silicone, and others. When, where, how to use each. Anyway, thanks for being so responsive. It's much appreciated.

[@edlip125]

Great videos! Any merit to measuring the distance to the center of the cam bearing oil relief groove and centering the bearing feed hole accordingly?

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

I measure the width of the journal and width of bearing find the difference (usually 1/32 either side of bearing) and set it there. In reality you can eyeball the difference on either side of the bearing and just center it in the journal

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the question Ed. You can do that but it is tricky measuring in there. i usually just stop short, then check for the alignment before the finishing blow. AG

[@edlip125]

@@goldsgarage8236 Thanks AG. Keep up the great work.

[@dadatschool]

A lens cleaning is in order. Use the eyeglass spritz and cleaning cloth; that will solve or greatly diminish the glare and flaring.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks dad. I will try that for sure.AG

[@philthelawnman]

I have always let my machine shop put in my plugs and my brass plugs for the sandcast/freeze plugs. Never once have I done the cam bearings and now new fear unlocked I was going to but not now. I wouldn't want to buy a engine because I clocked it wrong. Hopefully I have time to finish my sons 350 four bolt main before Christmas.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Phil. Don't worry about that. i was pointing out the ideal location to clock the oil hole but there are millions of engines out there where the bearings are installed randomly, without paying attention to where the oil hole is and they are fine. I think it would be more important if you had very high valve spring forces. AG

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

Phil, it's very easy to clock the oil holes. 2 to 3 o'clock is "best" but anywhere from 1 to 4 is good. So just draw a line like he showed you to get you in the right zone and drive it. You will be right on the money.

[@ottyrobert]

I'm familiar with the need to check main bearing and rod bearing clearance. But is a similar check for the cam bearings to the cam clearance required/recommended? I have to think that at some point there's too much or too little clearance there, but I'm not sure I've ever seen this addressed.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good question Robert. The cam bearings are a standard size, as are the cam journals. Typically, test fitting the camshaft is sufficient. AG

[@ottyrobert]

@@goldsgarage8236 Thank you for the reply. Is this because of the 1 piece nature of the cam bearing? I ask because aside from align boring the mains or grinding the crank journals undersize, I suppose the same could be said of the main and rod journals and bearings with regard to standard sizing. In other words, if the crank journals, mains, and rods are all stock/standard sizes, we still measure clearances. Beside the cam bearings being 1 piece bearings, the other difference I see that may influence the criticality of clearances is the load on the bearings. I would imagine that the valve springs can apply significant load on the cam and bearing interface, but I have to assume that this load is much less than what is seen at the rod and main bearings, making clearances more critical there?

[@jube455]

If you had decided to clearance the block for a 383, would you consider setting the new rotating assembly in place in order to mark where the material needs to be removed?? That way when sent to the machine shop a lot of the debris would be removed when they wash it.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good question. i would also mock it us and clearance it myself before bringing it to the MS. You are correct, you don't want to be grinding after the engine has been cleaned.AG

[@ccurrell]

Great Job. I am enjoying this detailed series. I have never built an engine but want to so the details you are showing are exactly what I need. I am also reading a David Vizard book to learn more. I am struggling to find information and more specifically the math equations to help with the planning stages. Being meticulous in the planning stages will mean no surprises during assembly. Do you believe there is a benefit in removing sharp edges from the block to help with oil return? Are there advantages to chamfering oil return holes?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for watching Chris, we will make several videos of this engine as it progresses. Hopefully you will find them helpful.AG

[@alleyoop1234]

I see there is wear marks above the centre oil galley that the timing gear made, that is an area I always grind back to prevent that potential wear point. Just a silly Q, but if you tap the front plugs, then why not thread that plug above the rear main?🤔

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Alleyoop. Those marks behind the gear were already there, but yes, you should always check that. Second question, that plug actually bottoms against a step, so it can't go any further in that direction. it would be a little trickier because of where it is. Also there would be oil pressure on both sides of it so net = zero force on it, neglecting the pressure drop in the filter. Have you ever seen that done? AG

[@alleyoop1234]

@@goldsgarage8236 Thank you for the reply Al. No, I have never seen anyone tap that hole, it was just a thought that ran through my head at the time. That is a really nice cam bearing tool, a bit nicer than the one I built in high school. But mine works on SBC, BBC, and W engines too.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks. AG

[@davestarr7112]

Yes, the glare is evident ... much more so now that you pointed it out .... but it poses no problem at all to me. I have a quick question. There used to be (perhaps still is) a practice many folks believed in of painting the inside of the block with Rust-O-Leum brown primer. Some folks have even advocated painting the inside with a finish coat of Rust-O-leum ... the supposed benefit is to help oil return more quickly to the sump. Any thoughts on these practices, pro or con?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good question Dave. I have seen instances where the paint lifted off the cast iron and clogged up the oil flow. It was popular but I haven't seen it much lately. I think the oil will drain back fine without it, so i don't see the benefit of doing it.AG

[@davestarr7112]

@@goldsgarage8236 OK yjamks. I thought the idea had gone out of fashion (after all I don't think oil draining down the bare cast iron would be that much slower than oil over a painted surface, but I wanted to hear an experienced opinion.

[@ericuncapher9922]

Great video. I have a question.. The holes in the lifter valley for oil drain back? Or are they for venting oil from the crankshaft?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Eric, I think they are mainly for drain back, they also pour oil on the camshaft, however I would think venting takes place everywhere it can find a path from high pressure to low pressure. AG

[@ericuncapher9922]

@goldsgarage8236 I wonder because they sell threaded pipe for those holes. And I saw them in the past in boat engines.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for pointing that out Eric. The threaded pipes would be used to prevent oil from draining in that location and force it to the front and back of the block. i think they do that to reduce windage losses, as that oil would get tangled up in the crankshaft. I certainly would not do that when using a flat tappet cam. AG

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

​@goldsgarage8236 that is a racing trick to reduce oil drag on the crankshaft. Certainly unnecessary on a street engine.

[@mikeheggem9488]

Looks like you were using the cheapo low carbon galley plugs . My machine shop used those on one of my builds . Chinese cam went flat and during disassembly the hexes in the plugs rounded out. (Lots of fun) Got some high carbon plugs with black oxide coating , more like what the factory used. Hopefully no more damage on removal.

[@daleolson3506]

You don’t block off the by pass on the oil filter adapter?

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

You don't want to do that on a customers engine because if they are lax on oil changes and the engine gets starved for oil from a dirty blocked oil filter it would come back on the builder.

[@jamescereda2628]

I gotta 327.350hp corvette engine in my 65 chevelle. If I stroke it, what will be the difference of hp/tork?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good question James. If you stroke it to 383 (including a .030" overbore), you will add 56 cu. in. For a street performance engine you should reasonably expect to make about 1.15 HP per cu. in and 1.18 ft. lb. torque, so 56x1.15=64HP and 56x 1.18=66ft.lb. torque. AG

[@philthelawnman]

327 with a 302 chevy crank and high compression would be fun also.

[@johnpye7177]

I'm starting to get the room and a clean table.

[@goldsgarage8236]

That's great, i guess I made my point. thanks John.AG

[@adamoneill-n6h]

Oil filter bypass should go in not restricting the port

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

That man has been building engines for 50 years. He can put his oil filter adapter any way he wants

[@adamoneill-n6h]

@Hillbillygarage1215 yes he can. Doesn't mean he can't view options

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

​@adamoneill-n6h actually I'm just razzing you. I turn it the other way and I noticed his the factory way. I just figured if he reinstalls it that way, it probably makes no difference. LOL

[@adamoneill-n6h]

@@Hillbillygarage1215 to be honest I was just shocked how he said it. He's pretty technical on everything and that was however it fits. Figured he would be consistent on it. Now does it make a difference. Made sense to me when I was taught. But the Oiling system is always a debate like hv or hp oils pumps

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

@@adamoneill-n6h the only advantage that would make sense to me is if the bypass valve actually directs the oil into a swirl path. Alternately is it better for the oil to be able to go around both ways? I don't know the if that helps or not? I chamfer the oil entry to the left and right so I put the bypass on the outside.

[@Glenn-mq8ts]

Freeze Plugs?

[@philthelawnman]

Those are the open holes in the block exterior that lead to the water jacket part of your block. The holes are actually part of casting to get sand out of the block at the foundry. As amazing as any engine has ever been the primitive technology of pouring a liquid Iron or aluminum block is more impressive to me than the recent space X return landing. Hope that helps.

[@Glenn-mq8ts]

@@philthelawnman yes, I just never heard them called "frost" plugs. Maybe it's a regional thing.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

Go to the parts store and ask for a set of freeze plugs and see what they hand you

[@Glenn-mq8ts]

@@Hillbillygarage1215 well, first they're going to ask, year and make.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

@Glenn-mq8ts yeh and if it's 4x4 and does it have A/C. LOL

[@markmcmullen1371]

👍👍👍

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Mark.AG

[@dspencer1409]

There are no freeze plugs, the manufacturer has no provisions for freeze damage. The "block" is a cylinder case and the "freeze plugs" are soft plugs/core plugs and are necessary, the water jacket cavity mold is indexed thru the cylinder case outer wall, the molds are 2 cylinder segments that lock together and makes the can tunnel and water jacket. The soft plug lugs that protrude thru the cylinder case core plug openings and this makes the core "self supporting"

[@goldsgarage8236]

Great explanation D. Did you work in the foundry at one time? anyway, thanks for contributing to my channel. I will point that out in a future video. AG

[@johnmilner7603]

So the camera man knows about the light glare but doesn’t turn the light out to get rid of the glare.😮

[@toddbrown2236]

Terrific video, Alan. Lots of good information here, as usual. An interesting side note regarding freeze plug installation... I used to own a 1958 MGA Roadster that I restored with my dad. I had the engine (its original 1500 cc 4 cylinder) professionally rebuilt by a machine shop here in Michigan. They did a fine job, but not long after the restoration was complete and I started driving the car, I noticed a small puddle of coolant on my shop floor after every drive. It was not significant at first, but over a short period of time the puddle grew from a few drops to a puddle 10 inches or so in diameter. As I searched for the source of the leak, I was surprised to find it coming from one of the freeze plugs which was not fully seated in the block. A few taps of the hammer on a large socket, like you mentioned, and viola', no more leak. My guess is that during the build process the freeze plug was not fully seated which eventually caused it to further migrate out of the hole until it started leaking. Thanks for making and posting these videos. They are not only interesting but also very informative. Great content. Looking forward to your next video.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Todd, very informative comment. They are a lot harder to get to when the engine is in the car.AG

[@DeanStewart-t4v]

Glare issue, no big deal.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Dean.AG

[@philstar905]

Hey My Friend! You can always fix the lighting with the editing, that way you don’t have to buy a whole lighting kit, you guys are killing! Thank you for giving me the confidence and the knowledge to build my own car! 🦾🙏

[@cliffwright9842]

I see others use light cover defuser's for the fluorescent or switch to led tubes, they're more efficient too. Those halo lamps that go up behind the camera might fix everything. Another great tech video Alan.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for understanding and supporting my channel Phil.AG

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the tip Cliff.AG

[@daleolson3506]

You don’t block off the by pass on the oil filter adapter?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the question Dale, sometimes but not normally. Once the engine is delivered i don't have control of how it it driven or maintained. Oil that bypasses the filter is better than no oil. It might also cause a burst oil filter on a cold start. That said, it is a decision call. AG