The Truth About: Acids in Skincare | Dr Sam in the City

FLAWLESS BRIGHTLY SERUM - NOW AVAILABLE ➯ drsambunting.c...
Many useful molecules in skincare are acids. At the most basic level an acid will exfoliate the skin by disrupting the bonds between surface skin cells, revealing juicier-looking, more light-reflective cells beneath. But the best acids will have extra benefits above and beyond this.
My favourite acids are:
Ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) : a brilliant all-rounder, it helps prevent UV damage, stimulates collagen assembly and reduces hyperpigmentation. I love Obagi and Skinceuticals products.
→ Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum: bit.ly/1VTI8F4
Retinoic acid (or Retin-A): The most effective anti-ageing ingredient we know, and it prevents and treats acne as a brilliant additional benefit.
Over-the-counter seek out retinol, retinaldehyde and new kid on the block retinyl retinoate. A bit of a cheat as not true acids, but we know they have many of the properties of the Big Daddy of retinoids retinoic acid, and are easier to tolerate so less scary to try without a dermatologist’s guidance.
→ Medik8 Retinol 3TR bit.ly/1S1j9J8
Azelaic acid: super-versatile yeast extract, this acid exfoliates, treats pigmentation AND redness, plus it blitzes blemishes. It's also safe in pregnancy and breast-feeding women.
The Epionce Lytic series and Sesderma Azelac range are two of the few that have this useful ingredient azelaic acid at a significant percentage.
→ Epionce Lytic TX: bit.ly/28Nny9q
→ Sesderma Azelac: amzn.to/28LVfHF
Lactic acid
An AHA which gently exfoliates whilst hydrating - so useful in dull-but-sensitive skin.
→ Obagi Nu-Derm Exfoderm Forte #4: bit.ly/25U7WHF
Salicylic acid A fat-soluble acid that's also anti-inflammatory, so great at getting into the pores to prevent and treat spots.
→ Obagi CLENZIderm: bit.ly/28KM1Zg
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As always thank you so much for watching and for all your support!
Disclaimer: The content seen in this video is provided only for medical educational purposes and is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Please seek professional help individually if you suffer from any dermatological condition. Due to the volume of patients seen in the clinic, and to the unique nature of skin, Dr Bunting is unable to respond to every query on these videos.

[@anonymous6594]

Would you consider doing a Part 2 this video to include glycolic and mandelic acids?

[@coma6484]

Yes

[@elliet2902]

im studying to become an aesthetician and this video was so helpful! please make more like these :) ps having subtitles really helps to process the information - thanks

[@jboop6]

Going back and watching old videos again, and this is such a great one! you deliver information in such an easy to digest way!

[@sammyw1407]

Something that may possibly interest you, is looking for Cybil Lenglore's site. It not simply shows you how you can make the bumps go away within a few days, you'll also be capable to "shed" that ugly dry skin and have a tight appearance by just minimally fine tuning how you actually eat.

[@wendispear410]

Well done! Thank you so much! I've learned more from watching 5 minutes of your videos than i have from going to derms over the course of my 48 years!

[@leandrozuanazzi6815]

Such an informative video! Loving this series. It would be great to hear more on how to combine different acids to achieve better results. Thank you for sharing.

[@anumk1738]

I would be interested in seeing your personal skin care routine, would you consider sharing it with us?

[@cindywebb7718]

Dr Sam this was so helpful! So kind of you to share this, I am still confused by some of it but that's because I'm not a dermatologist and why I'm saving hard for that appt with you. Thank you so much for helping me understand more and giving me hope that I can have beautiful skin one day soon xxxx

[@laurah3018]

Thanks for the advice will give the BHA and Retiniods a go see how I get on

[@randomlykaren6291]

Thank you for this video! I have watched several of your videos this evening and they are full of great information. I have quite a bit of redness in my cheeks and combination skin that is quite dry in some areas, especially in the Winter. Typically, to get rid of the dry skin and dullness, I have been using physical exfoliation and even purchased one of the spinning face brushes that have become so popular. Now I realize that this has probably just been worsening the redness. I will definitely set aside my physical exfoliants and try some chemical exfoliation instead.

[@mandyclarkson2579]

Thank you for posting this. I use aha/BHA's on a daily basis and was worried I might be using too many products. 👍🏻

[@DrSamBunting]

An incremental programme should let you know where your skin's threshold lies. Go slow and steady.

[@missVmilne]

Nailed it ! Terrific facts brought to life. Thanks so much for sharing. Please keep posting : )

[@gvaanang]

Exceptional Channel ,Hey Doc what about Kojic Acid and Glycolic Acid.....No Details on That............

[@Babystahp95]

Could you also do a video on acids for acne. How is glycolic acid useful for acne? And please do mention Kojic acid!! Thankyou Dr. Sam

[@licinylopes8755]

saniya gulati and Hydroquinone

[@vatishacarney2270]

I'm about to try TO mandelic acid, as they recommended it for my sensitive, acne prone skin. I've already had great results using their niacinamide!

[@michelleminnis7237]

I love all the science!!! Thank you!

[@DrSamBunting]

I'm so glad to hear! Thank you so much for watching

[@Dee-cg1bv]

Serious question from a woman of color, Why would anyone want to produce less melanin?

[@snkfrk10]

Fantastic video! Thank you so much for your educational approach rather than just "recommendations"

[@DrSamBunting]

I'm so glad, thank you for watching!

[@jlynnyyc]

Could you do a video like this about face oils?

[@epictemptation7350]

Why haven't I discovered this channel much earlier

[@nicoleboddington8055]

Thank you, Dr Sam. I love your videos and appreciate the way you explain things. Helps make sense of what can be really confusing :)

[@DrSamBunting]

Yay!

[@mimmiholms4124]

Great video as always Dr. Sam. Informative and clear. I'm not sure why people tend to mix these acids together but as you say: it's good to know the difference and what results to expect. Have a great day! That Luxurious Feeling

[@DrSamBunting]

Thanks! Loving the feedback x

[@MaryChrapliwy]

Found you today and have watched a few of your videos, excellent content

[@sarae9506]

Thank you! This was very helpful!

[@ml2mercer2011]

Thanks Dr. Sam! Very well described and thought out video. Appreciate your time! Continued success! Lisa

[@DrSamBunting]

Thank-you!

[@kristinaw6654]

Very informative. I enjoyed this video and your explanation on various acids. I use Neostrata glycolic acid but am going to introduce The Ordinary Lactic Acid and their otc Retinol. I also use Vit c 23% suspension by the Ordinary, just working out how often to use all these in a week, whether daily or alternating. A video on layering, ph and wait times would be helpful.

[@Percephone475]

Thank you for your advice ! That was what I was looking for !!

[@LadyGeming]

I use retinoid at night and AHA in the morning.. I have no skin issues ... shall I add azelaic acid to my routine and where to insert it? With retinoid or with AHA? Planning to use L-ascorbic acid in morning routine as well.. thanks for the answer. Love your wonderful channel i am happy that I found it 🤗

[@chaithrashetty5061]

thank u for such a small but extremely informative video

[@missf79]

Thanks! This was such an informative video, really useful!! X

[@DrSamBunting]

Thank-you! Glad you're enjoying the videos.

[@mariejoseepitre409]

I really enjoy your video, I am quite new to your channel, I've also watched you on the Telegraph. I was wondering if you could demystify the use of multiple acids together by giving some examples of what coild be mixed with what, such as azelaic acid with tretinoine for example. Thank you it really is helpful!!

[@DrSamBunting]

+Marie Josee Pitre So glad you've found us! Your video ideas are noted. :)

[@paulaarmstrong5127]

Thank you so much for producing these really helpful skincare videos! I've been following your advice regarding cleansing and treating skin prone to breakouts and I've noticed such an improvement in my skin as well as saving myself a fortune on unnecessary products. If possible, could you make a video about the best make up to use on acne-prone skin? I'm curious about what types / brands of bronzer / blusher are best as I noticed that you said powder formulations aren't great for acne prone skin. Thanks so much!

[@DrSamBunting]

Great to hear! It's on the list.

[@salomebaker.3463]

Ok Dr Sam!

[@sleepaidradio8054]

Thank you so much for your beneficial video Dr. 😊

[@traceys8960]

Love the video, v informative but how much is too much acid use to avoid disrupting barrier function? If using AHA as a chemical means of exfoliation how often & what % acid should an average person go for? Is acid toning after every cleanse really a good idea?

[@joannwilliams4801]

This is excellent. Thank you!!

[@denisemeyer646]

This is a great video but didn’t see a link for lactic acid products

[@kathypinnow7079]

I just found you on KZbin and love your videos! Are there acids that should not be used together?

[@Zyjal]

Thank you so much for these videos! :)

[@sheiladerooy7204]

great explanation, thank you.

[@monicaroy9565]

Tks for such genuine information in this ocean of such false informations!!

[@nourabenamor4152]

Yes helpful indeed. Thank you

[@melupof]

I love your videos! How often do you use acids? I also would love to know what do you think about alcohol denat in skincare and makeup. Thanks! 😍❤️

[@lucindapeterson8225]

Thank you for sharing.Your videos are very very helpfull.

[@Nzp6959]

This is the best acids explained vid👏....all other are in such a hurry😏 Thanks you so so much👍

[@DrSamBunting]

Thanks for watching!

[@deirdreosullivan725]

Great video can you recommend products for each type of acid please? ?

[@shanicross1]

How should I incorporate vitamin c with other acids? Do AHA's inactivate vitamin c and vice versa? Love your channel Thank you

[@FongYukYu]

I know this is a super-old comment, but Vit C doesn't interact with AHAs. That being said, everyone's skin is different & concentrations will affect your reaction. I have been using both for months with no adverse effects, though my skin is fairly non-reactive.

[@katiespurgeon3993]

Awesome video...really informative

[@monicaroy9565]

Dr Can u suggest some drugstore vitamin c products plz!!

[@MyHoneybunny11]

Thank you so much..It was very first time I understood which acid does what??

[@aiai-j7i]

I am a new subscriber...so glad I have foud your channel...you are elegant and educated, love it! I started using retinol 0.025% since 2 weeks and so far my skin is fine with it. I have couperose on my cheeks and dehydrated skin; I have melasma on my forehead and lower cheeks. I was wondering if I should just stay away from acids all together? Ok, I am going to watch another one of your videos now. Am going to buy the Toleriane hydrating cleanser you just recommended in another video. Thank you!

[@marcmuller993]

another great video! love your passion and your videos!

[@bellarose8511]

Interesting vid. I heard that long term use of Retin A will thin the dermis causing issues. What do you think? thx

[@smg992]

Very informative, thanks! I have persistent white comedones on my forehead- any product that will stop the formation? Thanks xx

[@nicolasmith365]

Thanks Dr Sam for another excellent video!!! I have a question about the Obagi CLENZiderm salicylic acid product......is it the Pore Therapy toner that you are recommending?

[@theresar4085]

Hi Dr Sam! I would like to know how often do you apply AHAs and also what other AHA products do you recommend besides the Exfoderm Forte? Thank you so much for the videos!

[@iamneverwrong6635]

Dr Sam, how soon after using an acid toner can I apply my facial lotion or cream? Does the skin have to be completely dry or still be a bit damp from the toner or acid pad? Thanks for any tips and advice you can give...best!

[@AudreyNataliaKosmar]

Theoretically you don't have to wait. Acids usually works instantly with the enzymes on your skin

[@SkinFits]

This is the first time I’ve heard anyone recommend AHAs in the morning, as for the sun sensitivity that will occur. Can you elaborate on it?

[@queenbee244]

well if you are staying home then perhaps you can

[@DimitriosKvs]

Forgotten glycolic acid? That's a pretty serious mistake for a professional.

[@sj1605]

My dermatologist is in a hurry to run out the door. I have to stop him to ask what about my exfoliants. When do I use them? Do I sill need to use them? And he just answers sure use it and doesn’t even ask what I use.

[@trueosmondfan]

Wow, this was such a helpful and informative video, thank you! I'm in my 50's and was very good about always using a good moisturizer since I was 16. I'm fortunate not to any visible lines and wrinkles but do have a few deep set lines on my forehead. I'm not too worried about the wrinkles on my face but would like to start exfoliating my skin. Unfortunately, I have very dry and sensitive skin and am afraid of how the "acids" would affect my face. I overcame rosacea a few years ago by using mostly natural products as creams and moisturizers. Can you suggest any "gentle" products that would not irratate and harm my skin? I'm afraid of the rosecea coming back. Thank you for any suggestions you can think of.

[@cheekysmile2557]

Quick question Dr Sam can I use salicylic acid and aha acids in the same week on different days? Or is it safer to keep switching between both each week? Thanks 💕

[@sabrinacoolest]

Can u do skincare products do's and don'ts for pregnant women

[@katsm-wo9704]

Excellent information

[@NessaWrafter]

Hi Dr Sam - what do you think of The Ordinary's Azelaic Acid?

[@AudreyNataliaKosmar]

I heard they don't help much with rosacea as in like curing it but it definitely didn't irritate people either. I saw many good reviews about La Roche Posay Intense AR serum and people said it was helping their rosacea (the ET types, mostly).

[@AudreyNataliaKosmar]

+stephanie sprinkle if i have rosacea on my cheeks and they are dry .. Will azelaic acid be good? I want it to work for my rosacea but do not want to dry my cheeks even more.

[@sanx189]

I find it works best for fungal acne, the type where you get tiny bumps not typical pimples. Azelaic acid doesn't function like AHAs or BHAs but more like a retinoid helping skin turnover rate

[@anthrogal19]

There's research behind the prescription strength (15%) on rosacea but after 15 weeks. I'm giving TO's version a shot on my skin knowing that it will probably take longer to see an effect (on my rosacea) because it's not as strong. I only use a pea size amount and don't have any problems with it--I'm thinking others might be using too much.

[@KatrinaLovesAdrian]

Dr Sam could you please do a video on deodorants? I know this is weird but I am curious as to your point of view on natural vs store brand, which are the best for sensitive skin, etc. I have used several natural deodorants that all made my armpits red, raw and angry inflammed.

[@galato4234]

Thank you for your informative videos. Could you please suggest another vitamin C product than Skinceutical and Obaggi. Thank you.

[@roserose-qx2yu]

hi doc...I am in Jamaica can u tell me what brand suncreams can I use thanks much love your video...

[@LaStellaIa]

Very very helpful vid. Thank you :)

[@DrSamBunting]

So glad to hear that. Thanks for following! x

[@gvaanang]

Exceptional Channel ,Hey Doc what about Kojic Acid and Glycolic Acid.....No Details on That............

[@yam406406]

what is the best acid for anti ageing? retinol or glycolic acid

[@shannonkimbro8211]

What do you think about a 10 percent Mandelic serum for melasma? Is Lactic acid better?. My skin in sensitive so that is why I have been using the Mandelic acid.

[@MissPixieNoir]

I think this will be my new favourite channel! :D It's so refreshing to see someone from the medical field on KZbin. How do you become a Cosmetic Dermatologist? I'm currently studying to become a Medical Aesthetician but I think Dermatology might be for me. I've also been taking courses at the International Institute of Anti Ageing, do you think the knowledge I've gained will help me get into the Dermatology field? I would be very grateful for you reply :) x

[@AudreyNataliaKosmar]

Hi pixie! Medical esthetician is different from cosmetic dermatologist. To be a cosmetic dermatologist you have to go through medical school and then continue with dermatology residency.

[@AudreyNataliaKosmar]

Your knowledge in skincare (anatomy, physiology, pathophysiology of skin) will definitely help. But during medical school we are also trained to understand various other medical conditions (pediatrics, surgery, opthalmology, forensics, internal medicine, emergency medicine, ENT, and so many others). Please take note that going into dermatology residency is never easy, regardless of the country. It is one of the most highly sought after residency. I just finished medical school and thinking about becoming medical aesthetician by taking some courses on lasers etc.

[@brugernavnnummer100]

Hi doctor Sam. I'm wondering how acids (exfoliations) will work with my freckles. I'm naturally fair with freckles (Scandinavian), but I don't want to 'loose' my freckles! :)

[@Chicpea101]

Hi Dr Sam, another great video - thank you for sharing. Please help,I think I may have rosacea, is it ok to use ahas & BHAs with this condition? Or is it best to avoid all acids if rosacea is an issue. Thanks again for your videos x

[@Daria-dg5el]

Love your videos. thanks!

[@DrSamBunting]

Thank you so much for your support!

[@korinnemcchesney4545]

I just found your channel and am so glad I did!! I have been really reaching skincare for the last couple of months and have switched to a all natural skincare routine. I have been oil cleansing and have made my own skincare products and just started using Sunscreen. I have little bumps all over my face because of dehydrated skin and clogged pores as o was using a makeup wipe and only cleansing in the day and would be done. I was prescribed clindamicin and trentanoin but have hesitated to start. Should I start it or try my natural skincare products and stick to my new routine. I've been eating very healthy now to cleanse my body too. Eliminating sugar, dairy and trying gluten free . I was thing of ordering the ordinary line of products too. What are your thoughts? HELP!!

[@lapharmacie98]

Mmmmm gotta love chemistry

[@sadierodz3144]

Hi Dr. Sam! I love your informative videos! Do you recommend not using these acids in a toner? I was about to order a glycolic acid toner, and you nipped that! Thx

[@DrSamBunting]

I prefer leave-on products where the dose is more controlled.

[@claram14]

Hi Sam. Have you tried P50? And what are your thoughts about it? Thank you

[@myratraney]

Dr Sam, thank you so much for this review. You have given us great information. I drank the Obagi kool-aid due to severe şun damage . I'm 64 & I was part of baby boomers generation where we boiled our skin under the sun completely unprotected. OUCH !! Having said all that , I'm looking for a maintenance program past Obagi Skin Care Treatment. I will always use Retin A but looking for something I can use to keep pigmentation absent . Can you help me? Till next time, Myra

[@msl5131]

"To keep pigmentation absent" stay out of the sun and apply sunscreen religiously, every day. This is the primary way to keep pigmentation from reoccurring. Add a Vitamin C to your morning routine as it helps scavenge free radicals & bumps up your bodies ability to protect itself from the sun. Niacinamide (derivative of Vitamin B3) is also good as it suppresses melanin from reaching the surface & protects skin from further UV damage.

[@ivaneteroark710]

What do you think of the ordinary line?

[@drsakshisargam]

Dr. Sam, thanks for such an informative video! I use Finacea (15% azelaic acid gel) for Rosacea and adult acne but it stings like crazy for the first 20 minutes every time I use it and is not decreasing with continuous usage. Should I discontinue it? Thank you so much!

[@abovetheclouds1771]

I have the La-Roche-Posay Redermic R & Avenes' NEW Retional product ,love both these skin care products. Do you know what their difference is? Thank you

[@moriahjohnthejohnsons718]

This doctor does answer questions. See Dr. Dray instead

[@phuonghull]

Dr. Sam, Can you go over acid peel and how safe/often it is to use as a regimen?

[@UGICHAND]

Hi, I am a physician myself and love your channel. I wanted to know, can I combine glycolic acid (drunk elephant glycolic acid serum) with 0.04% retin a? can i use them everyday together or should i alternate them on nights? I current use 0.04% retin a at night and drunk elephant vit c serum in the morning and want to add glycolic acid to my skin care routine.

[@stacypalmer8002]

Good morning dr Sam was wondering how many times a week do u use these acids xxx

[@Zyjal]

I would definitely be interested in this too... a Biologique Recherche facialist told me I exfoliated too much and damaged my epidermis :(

[@DrSamBunting]

There's no hard and fast rule. Start slowly and with little amounts.Build up amount and frequency over the course of 4-6 weeks. Introduce one active ingredient at a time.

[@tedoymisojos]

Exelent thank you. Im also looking for a short video to introduce my mother to skincare, she doesnt know anything technical, she just mainly use face wash and moisturizer; if you could recommend one that would be great, though ill be looking around your channel.

[@patapreku6219]

Liz Torres 0

[@AudreyNataliaKosmar]

+ Liz Torres What about Angie from HotAndFlashy? She has great skincare videos for women over 50

[@noutakka]

Very helpful video, thank you! I'm a bit surprised you did not mention glycolic acid (although similar I would guess with lactic in terms of results). Is there a reason for that?

[@cindywebb7718]

It was mentioned at 0:45 xx

[@starbritegirl]

I think she means that glycolic acid will exfoliate but it doesn't have additional benefits like the acids she prefers

[@lalaithan]

I know this is an old video but some of the links in the description are broken.

[@madscavite8484]

Hi Doctor Sam!Is it ok for nursing moms using BHA?

[@Zyjal]

Hi Dr Bunting, I know this is an old video, not sure if you'll see this question but I went to Biologique Recherche and they told me I should stop using acids (retinol included) because I "don't need them yet" (I'm 29) and they are making my skin sensitive. I know you can't make a judgement based on my skin, but have you come across this point of view? Are BR wrong? Thank you!

[@animeperspective9866]

which acid would be good for open pores caused by use of cocoa butter on face.

[@animeperspective9866]

went to a derm and she told me that i do have good ski. But she can see that some pores of mines have been dilated because of the cocoa butter. So she reccomended me neutrogena with 2% salacylic acid and retin a 0.01%. But to be safe i want to get a second dermathogist decision

[@angelas4507]

Retinol has had an amazing effect on reducing my pores. Products containing niacinimide are also supposed to be great for pore reduction.

[@angelartamesia2]

I want to buy CeraVe's foaming or SA cleanser and I want to use the SA cleanser but, I'm not sure which one should I use? Please help! I have sensitive, acne-prone, oily T zone, dry, normal cheeks after moisturizer facial skin. Neutrogena's hydraulic acid hydro boost's moisturizer made my face burn even without redness, is it because I used Neutrogena's serum with has hydraulic acid and the hydraulic acid overwhelmed my skin? If possible can I ask a few more questions to figure out my picky skin?

[@crystalmarie7709]

Does kojic acid exfoliate? or is it just lightening?

[@tinumaliakal2896]

Hi Dr Sam. I use Alpha lipoic acid. Is it a good one to be used. Is it the same as lactic acid?

[@JVSwailesBoudicca]

Really, really helpful, thank you.....

[@DrSamBunting]

+Artlovin' “Boudicca” Always delighted to hear that! Thank you for watching!

[@pilotjones9866]

Hi doctor, are you allowed to 100% mix ascorbic acid powder with 2% salicylic acid?

[@priyar9666]

Hello Dr Sam. Just subscribed to your channel. I wanted to know is aha's and salicylic acid safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding?

[@michaelgulliver214]

Can you use azelic acid and retinol?

[@swatchy-5436]

Hello Dr, thanks for the interesting video. After watching it, I thought it might be a good idea to stop using my 2% BHA lotion since I am pregnant, and switch to one of the two azelaic acid products you recommend, but when I check the ingredients, Epionce Lytic TX contains 1.95% salicylic acid, and Sesderma Azelac contains retinol, so these do not seem the best choices at this point for me. Do you have other suggestions?

[@ancasova6438]

Hi Dr, Sam! could i use retinol with glycolic acid toner in the same rutine, at night?