THE Ultimate Tiny-Whoop??? - Racerstar 67000rpm motors, Tri-blades, F3 board, Low-profile, BEAST!!!

[@natanaelbrunon2972]

Hello BamRamirezFPV, I have been wanting to build the drone in the video but was wondering if since it was made last year if there were any parts you have upgrade and if you would recommend them. Thank you

[@CiottiFPV]

Aren't those fat batteries something like triple the weight of the 200+ mah stick batteries? Why not cut the center battery hoop out of that frame which will let you put a stick battery horizontally down there for less weight and more Mah?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

so i think they're not quite that much heavier than the stick batteries, but since the only stick batteries i have have the smaller jst connector I can't compare them accurately. I think that to me the bigger issue is the normal whoop stick batteries come with the smaller 1.0 jst connector and what I experienced with those on my old nano qx models is that they simply can't deliver enough juice quickly enough through the smaller awg wires. the bigger mcpx connector is almost as good as a micro-losi in delivering juice quickly so that you actually get something closer to the full C discharge rate on the fatter batteries. But again, you might be right, I haven't done full testing on the weight/vs discharge ability to say definitively. The other great benefit though of the fat eachine batteries is that they're so cheap! the little 150mah ones are like 5 for $14 so I have a ton, and can fly them hard and fly through a lot of them in succession. (Not great for the motors but great fun to fly, lol)... i usually fly like 10 batteries in a row basically. The cheapest stick batteries I've found with decent C ratings are like $5 a piece.

[@CiottiFPV]

I just looked it up again and I don't know what I was smoking when I thought I saw the short fat batteries weighing so much more... They're pretty much the same as the sticks

[@BamRamirezFPV]

lol, no worries man, we all have those moments. but yeah, like i mentioned, I think having the larger awg connectors on both the battery and going to the flight controller is huge. I know some people are flying like super high C stick batteries with the smaller connector, and it works well too, but the price difference is too much for me to justify it since what it looks like to me is that they get roughly the same performance as i get on mine. Right now at 20g with this set up mine is basically a beast. I really do like the little eachine 150mah 45c batteries give you basically the best trade-offs on weight, power, flight time, and cost. I did try the 240mah batteries too, and those do add a bit more air time, but the trade off is maneuverability since the quad carries more weight into turns. happy flying man!

[@vino3741]

Hey Bam, I know this is an old vid so if you're still around replying, do you happen to have a link to any videos for installing the camera the way you did? or instructions for installing/mounting on the e011 frame? The link for the camera mount, I only noticed the frame, canpoy and blades so maybe I missed it. I'm fairly new at this and have only seen the vids with top mounts that seem to be easier to break. That seems like a perfect idea. Also, Is your link to the camera still a working link for the exact cam?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey Vino, Sorry for taking a bit to get back to you. I've been super busy with work. In terms of mounting the camera. I don't use a camera mount, I have mine mounted with little strips of double-sided foam tape on the back of the camera and wedged in the side to give it a better angle. I think I point at it in the video, but since it's hard to show as it's installed I didn't get into too much detail. I like using the foam because it helps absorb shock when you crash, so you're less likely to break the camera or anything and it's much lighter than hotglue or plastic or anything. The link for the camera is for a very slightly different version from Eachine, which I have used on a different build and I really really like. The one in the video is actually a Boldclash camera www.tmart.com/sl/5a5c10e0bd5e5 but it is a little more expensive than the one linked and a little heavier too. I definitely think that bottom mount is the way to go since it's less likely to get caught in something and break, and the hoops protect it too.

[@vino3741]

No worries at all. Ah, double sided foam tape, gotcha. Yeah, now that I've modded my first e011 I see how it can be done. I went with the top mount and canopy this time but I'm definitely doing the bottom mount next time, I really like that for that extra protection and lower profile. Thanks for the video and response bud!

[@BamRamirezFPV]

no problem! yeah, I have flown with both top mount and bottom and I think the two biggest advantages is that bottom mounted I was able to cut about 1.5grams off the weight, and if you mount it right the center of gravity falls almost perfectly in the middle, and without having something on top you get slightly better aerodynamics (at least as far as how it feels to me with less drag). The only downside I've found is that you get the hoops at the top of the frame when you're flying. I don't mind it much, but I know it does cut into the field of view.

[@vino3741]

right right. Yeah, I was wondering if there were much of the ducts within the FOV. But cutting that 1.5g is a decent amount of weight for these tiny little guys. I think it's a pretty good payoff for mb a little less view in the goggles. I think the only issue I'm having is that I picked up some Rakonheli 3 blade props that cause my left rear motor to wobble when I give a bit of throttle. I haven't figured out yet why it's happening.

[@BamRamirezFPV]

um, issues with the rear motor? that sounds strange. I mean I'm sure you've tried it, but it's worth checking out to see if the prop is balanced by taking it off the motor and using a pin to spin it (horizontally) if it always "lands" with the same two props down then one of those two props might be heavier than the others and you might need to shave off just a tiny bit of weight on it using either very fine grit sand paper or scraping the edge just a little with an exacto knife, to shave a tiny tiny bit of weight off. Second you may also blow on it hard and see if the prop spins as long as the other three, if it doesn't it might be an issue with the brushes of the motor being damaged/burned out, or the hoop being a little bent which can make the prop rub. If all fails, I definitely would recommend changing out the motor. These little 615 motors wear out fast, like I start noticing a difference after around 20 batteries or so, and by 50, the flight times get a bit shorter, so I end up swapping them out around that point.

[@qumefox]

Only suggestion i'd have would be to move the camera forwards a bit so the ducts are less of an view obstruction, and shift the battery backwards a little to compensate for the weight shift from moving the camera farther from the CG.

[@BamRamirezFPV]

that's not a bad suggestion, my only issue would be on how to secure the camera a bit forward without adding too much weight. With these whoops weight is just so important. I personally don't mind seeing the ducts because I'm flying it mostly fast indoors, so they help with proximity too. Right now the center of weight distribution on this one is almost exact.

[@Tidges01]

i see a lot of snow on my low profile tiny whoop. whenever i throttle my visibility goes down. how can is help this?

[@toddspeck9415]

Awesome!

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Thanks Todd! I hope you found this helpful!

[@marksherman630]

Hey Bam, is there any way to get battery voltage (VFAS) on your Taranis for this quad? I've turned everything on, but no luck.

[@BamRamirezFPV]

hey mark, do you have the e010s board? on mine the Vbat voltage works perfectly. I've never had any issues with it on my taranis.

[@marksherman630]

Yes. I just got the e010S. I have 2 other 5" quads set up with FRsky receivers and no problem getting the flight battery Voltage (use it to get Taranis warnings when bat gets below 3.7 V/cell.) I must be forgetting to do something in my set up?

[@marksherman630]

Just thought - do you run this guy on PPM or SBUS? That's the only difference I can see. Others are on SBUS, but this one bound to radio on PPM???

[@BamRamirezFPV]

hm, that's interesting, it could be the board but there might be something not turned on in betaflight. I can look at how mine is set up tomorrow. But for now I would check: in the set-up tab to make sure the telemetry is set up, that in the voltage meter tab that it is reading from the onboard adc... those two would be the first things i would check. Also in the receiver tab I would check to see if channel 8 (or maybe 7) is showing activity (i think that's the one that sends the telemetry to the taranis, if I'm not mistaken). it might also be something in the ports... tomorrow morning though I can check to see if I see anything else.

[@marksherman630]

Cool, thx. Check whether PPM or SBUS set as well, that may be it. My 1st FRsky quad with a brushed board so I just left it PPM.

[@matteomaravita4060]

Which is your max flight time? I have issue with slightly different configuration (VTX03 and Chaos motors) that I can fly only 1 min before start to lose height and become unstable...

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey Matteo, I can usually get around 3 minutes of decent flight time, and 2mins 30seconds if i'm flying very hard and fast. How many flights have you done with your motors? I find that with these high rpm 615mm motors they start to lose performance after as little as 20 flights... once you get to 40 flights or so your flight times go down a lot. I flew my first set of motors around 50 full batteries and I was starting to get 1 minute flight times even with fully charged new batteries. As soon as I swapped in new motors it went back to 3 minute flights.

[@matteomaravita4060]

Hey, thanks for the suggestion! In reality the motors are new even if they are not the racestar... I've ordered new racestar motors (even if lower Krpm, the 67Krpm are in backorder) and I will try again!

[@РоманС-ш5щ]

Как настроить E010S с Turnigy 9XR ?

[@stex2005]

What do you think about putting a EF-01 on the top of it?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Stefano Dalla Gasperina so I personally think that the tx01 is just a little too big and heavy to really get the most put of this quad. I also don't like top mounted cameras on a whoop since it messes with the stability in my opinion. that said, in my other mod video I linked a different camera on this, I can't remember the model number but it's in the description for the other vid. it's small enough and light enough to mount either on top or at the front too, and it comes with a whip dipole too so it lowers the weight too. :)

[@stex2005]

BamRamirezFPV Same for EF-01 or similar right? The thing is that I own a EF-01 and before mounting it I wanted to have some feedbacks

[@BamRamirezFPV]

sorry, yeah, i thought you'd said tx01 and even that one is too heavy in my opinion (and that one is only 4.5g). The EF-01 is *definitely* way too heavy since if I remember correctly (i own three of them) it's like 6g. If at all possible, i would recommend something under 4g. These are the two that I have tried that work really well: www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX01S-NTSC-Mini-5_8G-40CH-25MW-VTX-600TVL-13-Cmos-FPV-Camera-p-1139788.html?p=0Y29113406588201512O www.banggood.com/CM275T-5_8G-25mW-48CH-NTSCPAL-Mini-VTX-600TVL-FPV-Camera-for-DIY-Micro-FPV-Racer-p-1102464.html?p=0Y29113406588201512O the EF-01 is a great camera in terms of image quality and transmission, I use it on my ex100 and a couple of larger micros with 8520 motors, but for the little 615 motors you'll probably burn them out really quickly if you use it. and your quad will probably fly fairly slowly.

[@stex2005]

BamRamirezFPV Ok definitely thank you

[@qumefox]

I'd recommend an EF-02, since they're only 3.4g and are 800tvl and have pretty good dynamic range.. But they're kind of hard to find now for some reason. I bought some from banggood originally but they've pulled them for some reason. Last couple I got came from ebay. It's the same camera the e010s comes with.

[@jlolment]

Do you use custom PIDs? Can you share them if you do? I made something similar but have a lot of wobble I'm having trouble ironing out

[@tatumalexzander7742]

not sure if anyone cares but if you're stoned like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the latest movies and series on Instaflixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend for the last weeks =)

[@zekebenson6366]

@Tatum Alexzander Yup, I've been watching on Instaflixxer for months myself :)

[@matigo4649]

how much battery life?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey Matigo, with the 150mah 45c eachine batteries I normally use, the battery life is around 3minutes or so. You can get 3.5min or 4min flight times with the 240mah batteries they sell, but they do add some weight so the flight characteristics change a little bit. I have the batteries I use linked in the description. hope that helps!

[@Louis-lu5wh]

@@BamRamirezFPV that A lot of c’s😂

[@JC-zg2id]

Can the original e010 fc handle the current of these racerstar motors?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

since these are still 615 motors, I would say, probably yes. That said, I would recommend using 2 blade props to not burn them out too soon, or have too much amp draw from the board. (All you have to do is cut two blades off the 4 blade props, and actually, in my opinion that helps performance with the high rpm/kv motors)

[@13Danielx]

what flight times are you getting with this setup?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

hey Daniel, with this set-up and the 150mAh 45c batteries, I'm getting roughly 3.5 minutes of *hard* flying like you see at the start of the video, and that's usually because I never let my batteries get below 3.6v because I don't want to damage them. I've tried it out with the e011 battery which is 240mAh 30c batteries, and due to the higher weight tradeoff vs capacity, I will get 4minutes or so, but the quad feels different. With the lighter battery it feels like an F1 car, with the heavy battery it feels like a muscle car. (if that makes sense)

[@13Danielx]

Thanks for the reply Bam

[@mrguppy1016]

Good shit U should try the cockroach frame

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Thanks bro! I'm not sure I know what the cockroach frame is, who sells it?

[@nikolidzeshulgin7893]

newbeedrone

[@KyleGoesUp]

Cool thumbnail

[@BamRamirezFPV]

thank you!

[@viliussmilgys6826]

intro song??

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey man, sorry for taking a bit to get back to you. I believe the intro song is called, Park Bench by Gunnar Oflsen, if i'm not mistaken. Hope that helps!

[@jandomingo9806]

what is that in kv?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey Jan, Unfortunately, for these small ones they don't state what the kv is for the motors. I think the very rough simple equation is something like RPM/Volt for an unloaded motor. But usually that's used more for brushless motors than for brushed motors. So let's say that on a full battery 4.2v, at no load, the conversion might be something like (and don't quote me on this, I could be wrong in how I'm thinking about it) 67,000/4.2 = 15,952kv for these motors. That said the rpm/v conversion is only a rough estimate, because kv is really a reflection of a motor constant per volt and the math gets a bit more complicated. Hope this helps!

[@jandomingo9806]

reason being i have 18000kv motors n yours seemed faster... maybe your flying in a confined space thats y it seems fast

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey Jan, So again, it sort of defines how you look at kv, for example, like I said, if kv is measured with a full battery at 4.2v then these motors are 16000kv, but if it's measured at the native 3.7v for a 1s lipo, then these are 18,108kv motors... so they might be the same as the ones you have, it's hard to tell because they don't state specific kv. The thing that I can say is that i have now flown these in a bigger space too, my apt lobby, and they are extremely fast. Specially when you pair them with the triblades, you get perfectly smooth control and punch outs. I'm definitely sold. They make the 59,000rpm racerstars seem slow by comparison. =)

[@jandomingo9806]

i think yours feel faster as im running stock e010 fc and tx atm. but plenty fast enough

[@BamRamirezFPV]

yeah, that definitely makes sense too. the f3 board running betaflight definitely helps getting the maximum performance out of these motors. =) happy flying man!

[@vhanafii4663]

can i use this motor with stock fc ?

[@vhanafii4663]

e010

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Yep, you can definitely use these motors with the original FC, sorry for taking so long to answer, I just saw your comment now.

[@alessandroammenti2384]

how's the image quality of the tx01s versus the e010s's ef02?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

Hey Alessandro! so, the ef-02 has a much better image quality, not only because it's 800tvl compared to 600tvl for the tx01s, but also because it deals with dynamic range/light changes much much better. The only real reason I don't use it is because of how tall and heavy the cloverleaf is. I've thought about potentially separating the boards and using small 26awg wire to connect them instead, so I can use my ef-02 as a low-profile camera like this one, but I haven't had the chance to do it, and i'm worried I'll somehow kill the tx or something. as a camera the ef-02 is just plain better, it's just hard to mount in other ways than top mount. So if image quality is the most important part to you, then i'd go with that one, but if you want to have better weight distribution and a low-profile, then the tx01s is the better choice (though I would shorten the wires from the tx to the camera) Hope that helps! Happy flying!

[@alessandroammenti2384]

BamRamirez7 banggood doesn't sell the ef02 anymore, so i was thinking about buying the tx01 but now i think i will buy the tx01s. i will build your same setup but with a beecore fc instead of the e010s fc and i will also try this 1.5mm cf stiffener m.banggood.com/CNC-3K-Pure-Carbon-Fiber-Stiffener-For-Eachine-E010-E010C-E010S-Blade-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-p-1143360.html?rmmds=detail-bottom-alsolike . and i think i will buy the 240mah 45c for more flight time. thank you for making this video and Happy flying!

[@BamRamirezFPV]

sounds great! I'm really surprised they're not selling the ef-02, that's so crazy to me. It was basically their best camera. Maybe it was too popular? who knows, that makes me sad actually. I haven't tried the beecore, but i've heard good things about it. Let me know how it works out. I really like the e010s fc, to me it's perfectly set up. I considered getting the carbon stiffener but I decided that having the lowest weight possible was more important for performance. I think even in huge crashes the frame is stiff enough to not break and to perform as it should on mine. I might get the stiffener but actually to use it as a standalone frame for a non-ducted whoop. I might make that build at some point. =) let me know how it works out!

[@jandomingo9806]

Alessandro Ammenti i like the low profile look and probably have less drag from but seeing the ducts at the top vs the bottom is kinda weird. im just usto seeing the ducts below. but i really want to try low profile 1 day.

[@BamRamirezFPV]

i have flown both and i think in terms of performance, the lower drag and better weight distribution from the camera mounted at the front bottom and the tx below the vtx really does help the performance overall. I think it's totally worth it. I felt that after just a couple of flights I didn't even notice the ducts at all when flying. =)

[@magicmark9500]

Hey all. I have the same Quad, and I'm trying to use it with a 3.7V 240mAh 45C Battery. This battery has different plug(little thinner then the original) and I have a problem. When I plug in the battery, the rotors starts immediately at full throttle. No led indicator, just the props going crazy. Any suggestion? All parts are stock.

[@BamRamirezFPV]

hey Mark, i think you might want to make sure you are plugging in your battery the right way. I know that sounds odd to say, but I know that with brushed motors if you have accidentally reversed the polarity, and have managed not to burn out the board or some other component the motors will spin up as soon as you plug in the battery. If you're using the original motors and haven't accidentally swapped places/crossed wires that might be what is happening. Check to make sure that when you're plugging it in you're plugging in red to red, black to black, or in other words, positive to positive, negative to negative. Second possible cause, could be that you might have changed a setting in cleanflight/betaflight. You have to make sure the board is set to "brushed" in the settings, and you need to turn off air-mode so that the motors don't spin up immediately. Hope this helps, and hope your camera didn't get burned out.

[@magicmark9500]

BamRamirezFPV IT did sound odd, but the polarity was the problem. :D The plug seemed better the other way....(im so embarassed). Anyway... I didn't burn anything so all good now. Thanks again for the fast reply! Happy flying!

[@BamRamirezFPV]

no problem dude, glad I could help!

[@scottstreeter4555]

If the polarity is switch or reversed the motors will start. continuous current. If that helps.

[@wildcard.-]

9:11 Six hundred dollars!?

[@BamRamirezFPV]

lol, sorry I think I meant to say "6 or so dollars" and just mumbled.

[@alexc3330]

Interesting, but your pitch is tooooooo sloooooow

[@LeROYtheLAMA]

24min of saying how awesome the parts are and not a sec of flight time.. How is anyone taking this serious when you are sponsored by/affiliated with the seller?

[@YodaWhat]

I just wanted to hear it fly and you covered that up with stupid music. Ugh.

[@BamRamirezFPV]

sorry man, the camera doesn't output sound so the dvr is just silent/white noise, so I add music because otherwise it's even more boring.