DeWalt DCD996 Hammer Drill Controller Repair

Update 9/24/21 - After many questions about the fuse size, style etc. I have looked into this further. It is more than one marking variation for these 1206 SMD fuses. Little-fuse shows V as a 3.15A but it seems these could be 30A based on a few details and comparing to a different manufacturer. I will add links below just to show the potential correct fuse and I may even have a update video about this shortly. I apologize for any confusion.
In this video we take a deep look into a faulty DeWalt DCD996. This drill will not work at all. No light, no motor movement. This repair took over 2 hours total with over 1 hour of footage and of course I tried to shorten as much as possible. I tried with best of my ability to show as much detail as possible with the shortest possible time result. In the end we do have a successful repair and it will be interesting to find out if anyone else has this same issue. Please comment below if your drill had a similar issue with it. Hope you find this video helpful and thanks for watching!
This is links to possible 30A 1206 SMD Fuse replacements?
eBay Link to 30A SMD Fuse:
ebay.us/W8WL5B
Mouser link if interested:
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...
Newark Link to 30A SMD 1206 Fuse:
www.newark.com/bourns/sf-1206...
Digi-Key Link to 30A SMD 1206 Fuse:
www.digikey.com/en/products/d...
BTW: I have some Amazon links to some of my favorite tools and items on the bench.
Any links you click on helps support the Channel and I greatly appreciate it!
DeWalt Cordless Gyroscopic Screwdriver if needed: amzn.to/3Eevk8f
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Board Holder if needed: amzn.to/3881akA
Northridge Fix Affiliate Links. Any purchase you make with below links helps support the channel. Thanks for your support!
NF AMTECH NC-559-V2 Flux 10mL if needed:
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[@jklong03]

I am a retired MSEE who now "plays" with RC brushless motors and esc's as part of my hobbies of Quadcopters and aircraft. So refreshing to see someone who loves to tinker and hates the throw away attitude of today! Excellent skills and I especially like the way you show how Google'ing the part # and verifying the components is an essential part of this type of work! Hand salute and a hearty well done from this retired USAF Officer 👍

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Wow! What a honor. Thanks so much sir for your service and your comment!

[@jklong03]

@@ThriftyToolShed my pleasure. I have a diverse background and enjoy the experience of salvage. I have a couple of RC tools that I think may be adaptable for your interests. Let me know how I could send you a link (not a affiliate type😉, not selling anything) to them when you get a chance. Have a great Sunday!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@jklong03 Absolutely. [e-mail]

[@PoisonIvyHurts]

🍺

[@ruinunes8251]

I don’t have any dewalt drill but I watched it anyway. Another machine saved from landfill. Well done.

[@HighPeakVideo]

👍👍👍👍👍 Very helpful video, as like many others I had the exact same issue. DeWalt DCD996 found in skip. Thanks to your video I only needed to remove silicone in the area of the fuses, carefully using a pin, but the inner horizontal fuse came up with the silicone, and the other vertical fuse while attached was not connected at the lower end. Both soldered down and drill works fine. The fuses used in manufacture have connections on the end sides, but insufficient connection area on the underside, so they don't seem suitable for surface mounting. The replacement fuse used in your second video had more pad on the underside.

[@seanbegbie9255]

My second dewat just failed (still under warranty, sent it away for repair - 3 week wait!!) so watched your video and decided to try and fix the first one. Fuses had lifted as per your video, easy fix with small soldering iron. Thanks a heaps!, saved me buying a third drill!.

[@_RocketRooster]

Thanks for this video! I have the same drill and same issue and while removing the silicon had the exact same fuse pop up. That was a few months back and this video has given me motivation to get back on it and hopefully get the same results as you. You got a new subscriber out of the deal to boot! :)

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Thanks so much for this. This is also my exact problem. Both devices lifted off the board very easily as I removed the rubberized coating. Hoping to finish the repair tomorrow. This must be a common problem because the new part (for the whole assembly) is currently $205 and I bought a new 998 for less than that.

[@JuanOrtiz-pp5uf]

Great video, had the drill in the storage room ready for recycle for almost 2 years lol (Great drill so I didn’t want to give up on it) started to get ready to through it out and then I came across your video and fixed it back in action appreciate the help great video!! Lol now have to get back to cleaning out the storage I stopped and fixed drill first!

[@pandorsdesigns4350]

HI. THanks for this. Followed your instructions and now my drill working like a charm once again. Much appreciated

[@jdmccorful]

As your usural, great job. My initial thought before you broke in was the control switch. When you open up the drill, saw all the electronics and changed my mind. I think the biggest problem with equipment like this is that people try to use it with the concept that it is a full fledge HD. Actually more to the contrary. Can't be drilling concrete sills with that all day for sure. Those two fuses are the proof verses heat. Don't think its a good application in my mind. No matter what, great job with the work on your part.Thanks for the look.

[@_RocketRooster]

After reading some of the comments this is no doubt a common issue! Thanks again for the video!

[@howquick]

Thanks for doing this video. I’ve just found the exact same issue in my Dewalt drill of the same model 👍

[@flawedhonda]

thank you so much. this was my exact problem and i jumped it with a pair of tweasers to test it and it works perfect. just gotta solder it on and it will be brand new again

[@rickybird8415]

What did you jump exactly

[@samuelpiccola7880]

Thank you so much! This was the exact issue I had and the fix worked like a charm. Thanks so much for diagnosing, fixing, and sharing! Helped a lot

[@olivierj.2435]

Same here ! Amazing how often this problem happens. I suspect a robot problem on the assembly line for this pcb board.

[@Dan-K]

I watched this video (and your other one) twice through and decided to spend $9 (with shipping) for two of these fuses, figuring that would be a minor expense to try this repair... $35 eBay "unused, for parts" drill + fuse + time = $44 DCD791! Thank you for this!

[@samsungsexy7164]

Clearly narrated good quality repair video. I have just subscribed 😊 I have a Milwaukee Impact Wrench which looks like dead! Now have some hope👍

[@Roffepuck]

Had the exact same issuse, with my 996. That tiny little forward mounted fuse was loose in the silicone gunk. Soldered it back on, without scraping off anything else, and it's ALIVE!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[@MrWally2600]

Your my new best friend! Dewalt might want to know about this. Exactly the same here and I fixed it. NICE WORK!

[@jlewis184]

Looks like the 30A fuse from AEM, F1206HC30A0TM. Great work!

[@MicRuLerZ]

Thank you for the brilliant information

[@greatscott2007]

mine quit on me yesterday must be a common problem. You know you cannot buy just the control board without the motor. It cost more than the drill! I will be repairing mine as well. Thanks for the video

[@ibringthelastwords1358]

You soldered them without a heat gun!? This guy is a legend :)

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your kind comment! That hot air is handy for sure though! 🤣

[@ASiri-wg7cy]

Thanks so much for taking your time and post this. The fuse on mine was loose just like in your video, so It got to be a common issue with this drill. I didn't remove all the white silicone from the board. I only dug it enough to expose the solder, then go over with a heat gun. That was all I had to do to melt the solder and it was good again.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome job, thanks for your helpful comment!

[@chrishayes5755]

wow, lots of skill applied to get that baby goin again. it's a nice drill I have a similar one.

[@kenjisasaki1606]

Thank you for this great tutorial! My DCD 996 quit in middle of a job. I had to buy a DCD 998 to finish the project. I was about to trash the 996 but came across your video and decided to take a look. I found the exact same fuses were lifted off the board. I think it’s a factory surface-mount issue. Doing further research online, more than usual numbers of 996 are dying in this manner. This indicates a major design or manufacturing problem. I’ve only used my 996 on two projects, drilling about 45 holes in one year. It died a week after the warranty expired!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Wow. I have to say when I posted the first video on this model, I did not know if many would have the same issue or even find it helpful. It has been quite popular for my small channel to hit around 5K views in a few months says alot. It must be pretty common. I have also had many viewers like yourself commenting similar issue found with theirs. Thanks for sharing!

[@peteryoomla156]

Same experience here... I bought en DCD 999 to get going... will now try to repair the DCD996 ... which died 2 weeks out of warranty....

[@timothyjewett625]

@@ThriftyToolShed I have had 3 DCD996 drills fail with I believe the same issue from overheating. The light comes on when I click the trigger but the motor doesn’t engage. It is super annoying. This video is awesome but a little more adept than my skill level for electronics so I will end up just buying a 998. I have heard bad things about the 999’s chuck

[@johnhill3507]

Another great video, thanks for the info. ...that was fun

[@michaelbowman513]

My exact problem. You are a genius. Thanks for the video

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Glad it helped, thanks for your kind comment!

[@zulkiflikun377]

Happy to watch sir❤

[@OMARENGG22]

You did great job and helped a lot. I wish someone fixes A Parkside brushless drill that i have not working.

[@adan5317]

Just fixed my dcs367 all thanks to your video

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Excellent!

[@user-xv6qd6ev2h]

Thank youvery much for the video, had exactly the same drill and exactly the same issue! Even though i sent it to dewalt they said it was not possible to repair! Saved me lots of messing about and money!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome job! Thanks for sharing. So glad it helped!

[@hardkore360]

I've seen this on multiple tools, and my theory is that the fuses fall off after being dropped. The stress of the joints after numerous uses causes them to become lose due to overheating, then the shock of the drop just causes them to dislodge from the board. NICE VID!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I mentioned in one of the videos about this that this is my thoughts as well. I feel like the board around the Mosfets will get so hot (at times) that surrounding components can easily pop up or be bumped off if dropped etc. My buddy mentioned on this one when I asked that he did in fact drop it right after using it pretty hard and it stopped working! Thanks for your comment!

[@Koger4]

This fixed my drill thanks

[@abelfernandez1493]

Thank you so much . you are the best. it was exactly the problem .

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Glad it helped. Awesome job and Thanks for sharing!

[@powertoolsrepair]

Very good and inforamtive video, it`s sad that dont worked for my drill, but fuse was loose to...

[@levelliberation6155]

Thank you good sir, exactly what I needed to for three individuals drills with the same issue. I looked pretty hard to find something, and this video was the only one I found addressing this issue. Great pride in your work. I am new sub that doesn't throw away things either, and I appreciate seeing an intelligent mind willing to invest the time.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your comment.

[@Calahan65]

I have the same drill and exact same problem .hopefully this works

[@jamiljamshery3996]

Thanks for sharing this very informative, i have some dewalt impact drivers and a plainer, i think they all have same controller, this could be a common issue, I'm going try to fix them,

[@georgedavall9449]

Awesome !!! @09:57, and 11:05; hands like a surgeon! 😮👍 Nice work!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thank you so much for your kind comment!

[@georgedavall9449]

@@ThriftyToolShed Hi friend, I just heard back from DeWalt Service center that they cannot fix my 20 Volt jobsite fan, as it is out of warranty, and no parts available. They will send it back to me, and I would send it to you, merely as a “Source for Video” material?!? Your talent might be able to fix it? Might be worth a try? PLEASE Let me know. Sorry for comment out in the comment sections, but I didn’t see a link for e-mail, etc? Thanks!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@georgedavall9449 Hi, It might make a good repair video thanks for the consideration. [e-mail]

[@levistrnad2965]

MAN I wish I saw this video before I started on my little project... I broke off some components and ended up reflowing a lot of the components which was difficult because of the silicone.

[@RMFP87]

Nice work! I'll have to look at those fuses on a drill that our maintenance crew gave up on. I was given 3 drills minus a gear box, and a grinder that they didn't have time to repair. Any ideas on what might be a common fault on the flex volt grinder?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have not worked on a Flex Volt grinder yet, sorry. Several people have commented that they also had issues with these fuses on the drill, so seems to be an fairly common issue with these. Thanks for your comment. Best of luck to ya!

[@vinnylewis4568]

Brilliant stuff! I have one that may have a short across the phases. I haven't cleaned out the silicone as yet just started testing those heat sinks at 7:52. The meter beeps indicating a short for about 4 seconds before the reading goes to the 0.435v value. This is a brand new DCD 996 that never worked fresh out of the box by the way. After seeing the readings, as soon as I connect the battery there is a "POP" like a circuit tripping. Disconnect battery and test again and the Its the same 4 sec beep until back to 0.435v Any ideas what may be wrong and if its worth cleaning out and proceeding further?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your kind comment. I can't remember for sure while working on this, but it may be a capacitor across the input causing the pop and meter to show that way.

[@RM-rz3ph]

thank you Sir

[@kennyhuang-no6gq]

I have fixed my drill with same problem, but after a few holes drilled, it stopped working again. I am not sure if that is the soldering problem or something else. What kind of chips are those anyways? Anyway to find them if they need to be replaced?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I mentioned in the follow up video that I believe it is a 30A fuse. There is some confusion on the marking because some manufacturers use the same marking for the 3.15A rating and some use it for 30A. I did order a 30A fuse and replace this one in the following video.

[@petermcnull409]

100% exactly this happened to me whilst drill was under extreme load for long and got bumped. Exactly both those fuses came loose. Now i will take it to cellphone repair guy to solder them back.

[@jaimerosado3697]

Good job

[@kravenmoorhead5634]

Thank you so very much for this video. I'm having trouble finding these fuses to purchase, I would greatly appreciate it if you could steer me in the right direction. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and for doing it in such a laid back and relaxed manner.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks so much for your comment! Unfortunately I do not have any information about these to reference to say for 100% sure. I did not replace these to know for sure. Looking back at the video that was a 2.5mm screwdriver tip I was using and the fuse looked smaller than that in one direction and longer than that width the other direction. I would guess 1206 package? I would measure yours to know for sure. So in other words using calibers etc. See if yours match a certain known SMD dimension such as 603 or 1206. You can look these SMD sizes up on Google etc. 1206 is close so something like these below might work, but be sure to double check by measuring, these is just an example of what may work! Best of luck to ya! amzn.to/3hqsMbD

[@kravenmoorhead5634]

@@ThriftyToolShed Ok, thank you. Unfortunately both of mine were blown, I've already purchased a new impact, I just thought it might be fun to tinker with the old one and see if I might be able to get her going again. I appreciate the fast reply, have a great weekend.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Sorry, I am looking more into this. The V SMD fuses have more than one value. The more I look into these, I believe these could be made by a different manufacturer than little fuse and V is 30A? Disregard the 3.15A link please. I will delete it as to not cause confusion.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@kravenmoorhead5634 Now looking at this, I am thinking it could be fuses similar to these 30A 1206? eBay Link to 30A SMD Fuse: ebay.us/W8WL5B this is a Mouser link if interested: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AEM/F1206HB30V024TM?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugdM3Jnpj%252B5t5Q2cP9RsCA0JwNfgxAEr1F9oXw7YIQmJg%3D%3D

[@kravenmoorhead5634]

@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you very much! This helps tremendously, i sure appreciate your hard work resaerching this.

[@livinglife8196]

Cool video!

[@youngbloodbuilt]

Much appreciated.

[@MrSawadeh]

Thank you for your video . This proof my theory against friends thoughts . Main question ; what’s the easiest way to remove the casing Silicon without causing damage !

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It's soft and it can be removed by carefully picking at it with a very small flat screwdriver or pick. It is best to use a tiny plastic wedge to pick with, but it's hard to find something plastic that is small and still strong enough to do the job. I just try to go easy and slow with a jewelers sceewdriver and it starts clearing out in no time.

[@muattt83]

Good job thanks

[@deankdx]

Thanks for the video! i have a trigger issue i bet is just dirty contacts inside. with your video it gives me confidence to clean them(only working on max speed occasionally, sometimes doesn't work at all etc) what is that white glue type stuff for? protection from dirt/elements or vibration or water or something else?

[@deankdx]

I FOUND MY ISSUE! it's the E CLUTCH, it's just how it is on the lowest setting on the clutch. I only just bought this tool 2nd hand and didn't know about the E Clutch cutting the motor power. however, this video was great, i cleaned the cases while it was apart, cleaned the light switch and trigger and reverse lever and am now confident it was well worth taking apart to just clean it.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome job! Thanks for sharing.

[@mackenziepetrie8874]

Thanks !

[@10mmaeda]

Thank you for your video. I have a dcd791 XR. The small fuses are ok but I see that when I press the trigger, the drill starts spinning then stops and remains stuck. Pressing the trigger multiple times wont make it start unless moving the the shaft by hand a bit. When the drill is stuck and l press the trigger, the lights near the battery light for a moment. I saw in your video the hall sensor issue Could you recommend me where to search or what could it be faulty?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have not worked on that exact issue myself to say for sure. I shared the only repair on this type I have ever done on this video. I did not have any other issues. I would, however, look into the feedback hall sensors with a similar issue you described here. I would atleast check that first. It could be a controller issue or motor issue of course, but the most common and the less major of all these is the hall sensors. First just checking the connector for good connection and cleaning with a good contact cleaner could help? Best of luck to ya!

[@10mmaeda]

I found the problem. An small hall sensor in the rear of the motor jumped off (due to a big hit). I should replace it but a quick search in the web doesn't show me any exact result. The tiny hall effect sensor with three pins is labelled as "w32 O24A". Could you please advice how to search?. What does w32 O24A mean? Thanks

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome, glad you found it. Does it look like these? I can find W32? I am not fimiliar with these... images.app.goo.gl/SHL9Qqrjqs77XNPP9

[@chris58468]

Massive thanks, just saved my drill after watching this video. Is it just poor design that these can come away from the board before any overtemp cutout kicks in

[@ThriftyToolShed]

That is a possibility for sure. I have only seen this one time. The more comments like this on the video it will show itself as others have the same issue. When I first decided to post the video, of course I was concerned it was a weird issue and maybe not something that would help many. It actually maybe more of a common issue than I first thought. Glad it helped. Excellent job getting yours back going. Thanks for your comment!

[@mikewinstone7361]

viewed this Video as i had bought a non working model 996 as i like to tinker, however as the fuses were so small i accentually fused them together as my soldering iron is not that small, I thought well here goes and as they are on the same circuit what harm can it do but hi presto it worked so the solder is acting like a fuse

[@betsyjames416]

Don’t know if you answer questions but here goes I have a def 787 impact won’t run fuses seem fine but motor has 0 resistance windings not heated or burnt would u say motor is bad thanks for your videos may god bless

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have not worked on that exact model,but if it is brushless the motor phase to phase reading will have low resistance, but maybe not zero. If they are all balanced (all read equally low) the motor maybe ok. When checking phase to phase and comparing the ohm reading if they are much different then the motor is likely bad. Thanks for your kind comment and God Bless!

[@onlyeyeno]

Thanks for taking the time and effort of making and sharing this excellent video and sharing Your knowledge. I have a question for anyone who knows (and I apologise if it's obvious and or stupid), would it have been "OK" to just "short" the pads where the fuses had lifted, and just test if the motor would run. Just as a "simpler way" to "fault check" ?? To possibly avoid having to "fiddle" with soldering the "minute" fuses only to discover that the fault was elsewhere ?? ((or to suspect that You had "bodged" Your "micro-soldering" ;)) Best regards

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Well as a last ditch effort I have done that. The biggest draw back being if something else caused the fuse to really blow then it's not protected and it could be a catastrophic pop. If you want to take the risk then you can try it. I would typically try to come up with a solution to still protect if possible such as temporary soldered in wire and a 30A automotive fuse etc If possible. Thanks for your kind comment. Best of luck to ya!

[@pandaboy7001]

Thanks for the video. I have the same drill which had a piece of swarf shorting out vcc and ground on the connector on the board in the back of the motor. Removed the swarf and the light now comes on but no motor spin. Looking for blown parts on the mother board I noticed there is a resistor that looks blown and I can't see the value. Can't find anything on the net regarding these boards. Any chance you can help me find the value? I can send you a picture of location on the board etc.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Sorry, I do not have this drill. It belonged to a friend I repaired it for a while ago. All I have is the video itself for reference of the board. Maybe someone else on here may possibly be working on one and have it opened up as well. You can post the question and photo of it on the Thrifty Tool Shed Facebook page " On the bench" and see if the photos can get help from others in the group also. Best of luck to ya!

[@pandaboy7001]

@@ThriftyToolShed hey, no worries. Thanks alot for the reply.

[@nicoledesma918]

Nice video! I've also an issue with my DCD996 related with the light module. Some months ago started to be always on, but now even the drill is stalling... After disassembly the drill and disconnecting the 4 wire connector (red, black purple and black) of the light module, the drill works again!! (without light ofcourse), anyone can measure the voltage between the red & black, and the purple and black??? I measure: Red - Black: 20v (19,98v) Purple - Black: First seconds after pusing the main switch 2,8v, and after all 1,8v I want to be sure if purchasing a new light module will repair the tool.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your comment. I no longer have this drill it belongs to a friend of mine. If anyone else has one apart hopefully they will share the information. I know the corrosion was bad on the light module on this one I worked on. After cleaning with some contact cleaner it started back working but the board was corroded really bad. Best of luck to ya!

[@nicoledesma918]

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the answer. Let's wait if anyone have theirs diassembled, and can measure that. In my case the light module is pristine, that's what makes the failure more estrange!

[@mtpockets7352]

Is their something on that board that would keep it from switching to hammer mode?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Nothing that I am aware of. I did not work on this part to say 100%, but I thought the speed selector as well as hammer mode is all done in the planetary gearbox assembly?

[@fliptwentyfour6145]

same issue with mine thanks!

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for sharing!

[@petermcnull409]

Can i take out the electronics and replace the trigger with a dcd 785 trigger?? Yes i will loose the electronic clutch. Any pointers please? Thank you

[@ThriftyToolShed]

No. The DCD785 is brushed. It will not work on brushless tools.

[@asaspicer4114]

Youre killing me! Lol i love your videos! But you typically stop short and find the issue before showing me what my issue could be lol. I have various dewalt brushless tools id like to diagnose and repair but i cant find ANY videos that show any more than this one does on how to diagnose the control circuit on these potted boards. I have a dcs571 that has the identical controller setup as this, i did every test you showed in this video along with cleaning and i still cant get it to work... fuses are also fine. Could you PLEASE make a video on what to look for and test on the dewalt brushless control circuit?! Ill pay you handsomely! Lol

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your feedback. I guess that is something to work on, but I can't change much. Nothing is planned or pre thought out at all on repairs. It is simply me working on something and recording most of it. The repair is the repair. This video here for example, I was picking away the potting and the fuse was tombstoned. I found it as you seen real time. I guess it was no trouble shooting on this one. I don't have DeWalt tools myself so it won't be too many DeWalt repairs as compared to Ego etc. over the years. I do have a couple of actual troubleshooting videos made for the EGO 56V blower and battery over the years. I only posted this video on the DeWalt in case it was a common issue and it may help others. It actually did end up being a very common issue with the controllers. I did share an update video on this because I believe the fuse is really a 30A. The markings can be confusing depending on the manufacturers of these SMD fuses. If I do come across more DeWalt tools for repair I will keep this in mind. I have worked on things all my life and enjoy it and will do it as long as I am able. The video and editing I don't enjoy as much so I don't know how much longer I will continue that part. Thanks for your comment!

[@asaspicer4114]

@@ThriftyToolShed i know, I was just giving you grief. Like I said I thoroughly enjoy your videos! Keep up the good work! Whenever I have an issue with a tool or battery, your channel is the very first one I check for help. Great job

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@asaspicer4114 Awesome! Thanks for your kind comment!

[@asaspicer4114]

Absolutely. I must ask though, if you hadn't found those bad fuses, and they checked out okay... after every other test you've shown in the video, what would be your next test for a non functioning tool?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@asaspicer4114 Typically I would make sure the motor itself seemed to test oK phase to phase. It will be really low ohms. Just make sure all 3 or similar. After that make sure the motor driver circuit is not shorted to ground or each other. This may require resoldering the motor leads. If it has a hall feedback on the back of the motor make sure it is connected well and no corrosion. I also check for corrosion all over the board in general. Best of luck to ya!

[@richardmatthews2630]

Could you please tell me a link or site where I could get a replacement controller for the dewalt brushless chainsaw please. I don't have your skills but I've checked what I can and I'm certain it's a controller problem. I live in Ireland and can't get any stockists through Google. Thanks a million

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Unfortunately these are very expensive. They are often not cost effective, If you can even find them at all. This is an example from eReplacements. This is an example and you would have to look at your specific model. Item# 8 looks like the controller and it's pricey! www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dccs690m1-type-40v-lith-chain-parts-c-1009_566350_566958.html

[@richardmatthews2630]

Thanks for your response much appreciated my model is the 18v DCM565 and they do not list that one but thanks again

[@richardmatthews2630]

The controller has 94m52m-0000b made in Thailand written on it

[@Vision-sb4yq]

Do you know if all dewalt drills have the same control unit pcb? I was thinking of finding a cheap used drill and just swap the full control unit by unsoldering the motor, battery plug and light module. Would that work? Thanks

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I would imagine many have similarities, but how many (if any) are identical I am not sure.

[@Vision-sb4yq]

@@ThriftyToolShed ok so I've managed to get a 796 model, the overall PCB section is very similar except for the 2 wire going to the front of the chuck, not sure what it actually do. Tmw I will swap it see if it works.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@Vision-sb4yq I mentioned a little bit about the sensor with 2 wires in one of the videos on this hammer drill. I don't know much about it since I never had to work on it,but it seems to be a torque sensor. www.ebay.com/itm/332833466943?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eOeDjVDyRvq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=D_qZMHXJQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I assume it gives feedback to the board for the torque selector?

[@Vision-sb4yq]

Ok so so far it kind of work. It control the motor ok but the light is stuck on the ON mode. I will reassemble the lot now without the E Clutch and see how it behave.

[@ChikytoWeb]

Excellent. I have problem with the LED, that never turn off. Can you help me please.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Sometimes it is corrosion on the board around the switch. I have had luck after cleaning the corrosion.

[@renesimard1319]

🐐

[@greatscott2007]

tore mine down didn not find any problems with the board wondering if youve had other issues like the trigger

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have not with this model. Those 2 fuses in the area shown have been the highest commented issue I have seen since video was posted.

[@PoisonIvyHurts]

So if that gear you spun does not spin, the motor is shot?..I have a dcd985 with a gear that won't spin..it overheated and the brush inside crumbled.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

If you are asking about the shaft of the motor, yes it should turn easy. You may feel the magnets force as it pulses around turning it or if it's a brushed model you may feel the brushes drag a little on the commutator.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

BTW If you know for a fact the brush crumbled then some parts and pieces of that brush could be internally locking the rotor down or even the brush holder could be stuck against the commutator bars.

[@PoisonIvyHurts]

@@ThriftyToolShed ty, I will dig deeper..the brush fell apart and it looks a little burned where the brush was sitting.

[@michalzeman965]

Hello Boy😁 help me pleas! I have DCF899. I have a problem, after replacing the fuses it blows. when measuring the mosfet, they are permeable between all directions. Can mosfets be replaced? Thanks

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Hi, I have not tried to replace the mosfets on this as this one only had the fuse issue. I have on other controllers like the EGO blowers that I have videos on. I did end up putting a 30A fuse in this drill since I did find out some markings are not the same from manufacturer to Manufacturer.... Crazy. That is why I did the follow up video. The Mosfets look like it will take a lot of heat to remove with all the heat sinking around it for sure.

[@michalzeman965]

@@ThriftyToolShed thanks you are boss😉

[@mihaildumitrescu2588]

I have the exact problem like here , but when i sold the new one's, it's seem like i have a shortcut... i think but i didnt test it , the mosfet might be damaged .

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Is the new fuse a 30A? I did a follow up video and I edited the description on this video to show that I found out more than one manufacturer uses those same fuse markings and some are 30A. So I shared that in the follow up video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5fWkpmVd61oeas

[@betsyjames416]

Sir I ask about def 787 brushless impact it was flooded there is very little corrosion nothing works when you pull trigger I check those fuses they good but there are 3 parts that looks like those fuses just to the left of them they have battery voltage to the right side of them but 0 volts on the left side is that normal also the armeter was stuck when I first got it I don’t know if those three things are fuses thank u for your help

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have not worked on that model, but it sounds like those could be fuses. Are they white with a marking?

[@betsyjames416]

No markings they are between the red positive wire and a square black thing that has r002 markings

[@betsyjames416]

They look like those fuses but have a slight brown color in the middle

[@ThriftyToolShed]

@@betsyjames416 Seems like it could be a fuse if in-between the positive and a R002 resistor. The brown spot maybe a sign of hot spot? Hard to say for sure since I have not worked on one before though.

[@betsyjames416]

Thank you for your help may God continue to bless you and your family

[@adambrockett3313]

By any chance do you do this as a profession? Have the same drill, with the same problem. But I know nothing about electronics or sodering. I can't seem to find anyone locally that works on them and really don't want to have to buy a new one since mine is only 4 years old. It's never been outside or wet. Once I'm done with it, it goes right back in my toolbox at the shop. Loved the video, hope to hear back from you.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for your kind comment! I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Hopefully you can come across a friend that can solder and with help of video hopefully be able to help you. Best of luck to you with yours!

[@adambrockett3313]

@@ThriftyToolShed I figured this was probably more of a hobby for you..lol But yes, that's my next step. I was talking to a buddy today and he thinks his friend who is pretty handy with electronics should be able to help. Figure I'll send him a link of your video and hope for the best. Thanks for the quick response!

[@mihaildumitrescu2588]

On my board its a shortcut , i believe one of the mosfets its damaged . So i bought i mainboard from 886 ... and its missing the wires for the flash ( it is jus the small one from the top , at the 996 there are 2 additional from the bottom mainboard) ... i dont know if its risky to try to change the mosfets from the good board 886 on the 996 ... or just to try to put the wires on the 886 ... ( i dont know if the 886 board has oll the smd-s to do the same thing ..... even if the boards are alike around 99% .

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I am not familiar with the differences between the two enough to say!

[@mihaildumitrescu2588]

@@ThriftyToolShed i did put the wires from the 996 to 886 and the boards are 99% identical , i hope that it will work like 996 , if not ... i will let it without led and ...dont know for sure whats for those 2 wires from board to the mechanicals .

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It could be what they call the torque sensor you are talking about? This is a rough picture of one from eBay... www.ebay.com/itm/332833466943?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eOeDjVDyRvq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=D_qZMHXJQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[@mihaildumitrescu2588]

@@ThriftyToolShed the cables that are conected to this , its also conected to the flash ; i did managed ... to change the wires from the faulty to this 886 board ( practically there are the same ) but now i noticed that sometimes its stoping like something cuts the power and the power knob doesnt look to make any change in the force ...less or more when it screws... , and i dont k ow if its from that piece that you showed me or from the gear shift ... or from the board ( i did overheat it and maybe ... broked something else ...) What does that senzor manage ?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

It seems to be feedback for torque, but as I shared earlier I did not touch that part other than unplugging it to work on the board. So I remembered it was there, but that's all. I only worked on the fuse as shown in the video.

[@evelynsia460]

I would like to buy the multi electric tester, and soldering gun, flux, solder. My principles in life, "it's never late to learn anything u wanted to know." Never late in anything. I want to know how many watts for the solder gun, what is d best solder, and cheap multi electric tester, but can do d job.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have many links in video descriptions of items I find helpful. I really like the Kaiweets meters for the money. I have videos on the Kaiweets and have a coupon code in those videos description if interested. I would go with at least 60W iron for day to day use and a large 200W for heavy high current components. I also have the 65W Hakko and 200W Weller in most video descriptions. Solder I use a good flux core leaded 63/37. Also low melt solder helps removing large and difficult components as well. If you have any questions about any of these you can't find a link to in my videos just let me know. Have fun, Best of luck to ya and Merry Christmas!

[@abdalqadr1]

❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@Brian-vi3li]

This happened my dcd996 yesterday morning.. not a good start to the day.

[@give_guns_a2_chance499]

Same issue here

[@bernhardneubuser8163]

Great video! I have a dead Festool T18+3 in which the motor controller is dead. It is covered in some hard black stuff (instead of the white silicone in the Dewalt). Has anyone got an idea how to remove that black stuff to get access to the electronic parts? I already tried heating without any luck. Seems to be some kind of resin.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Great question. I have not had any luck with the black hard epoxy style potting like the one that I showed on the EGO mower controller. Most things that would remove it would likely hurt the board as well.

[@bernhardneubuser8163]

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the reply. Since I otherwise can only throw the controller away I will give it a final brutal attack and report if I get any success (or hindsight idea).

[@bernhardneubuser8163]

I found this video that recommends treating epoxy podding compound by "cooking" it in a waterbath: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZqzlmmcabSbbqc. While this may damage some components I indeed managed to remove the epoxy, scraping it away with a screwdriver. I had to reheat about 8 times. One smd resistor and a 6 pin device come off. The 6 pin device was not my fault; it stuck better to the epoxy than the solder held it in place. The controller has 12 MOSFETs (AON 6716), which appears to be ok, and uses a microchips PIC 33FJ32MC204 as controller. I will report if I get it to work again.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I have seen the water boiling trick, I have not actually tried it. I always said I would look for some old pots for possibly testing this one day at the second hand store or something. I have tried a small toaster oven I keep in the garage for times such as these and I have tried to cook up to around 240⁰F and it still was a pain and I did give up on the last large board I tried since the connector started to get soft and deform so it seems I could have let it get over 250⁰F. I liked the toaster oven convenience, but it may be hard to keep these under 250⁰? Good to know you seem to have luck with boiling!

[@toseefhayat1396]

how can i run my DCD996 without battery? i have this drill without battery.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I actually do not have this drill since I have given it back to my friend so I can not say for sure. You would have to investigate which terminals on the pack are used by the drill and see what else it needs besides the 20V. Most tools do look at the ID terminal to know which pack is installed as well as the health of the pack. Some tools may use the TH or thermal terminal, but usually just the charger. I have a video on a 20V max battery repair and it briefly goes into detail of the terminals and what I believe they are for, it may help.

[@los___santos]

Can i use this motor with controller ?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I do have a video showing a Ridgid brushless motor driven with a cheap controller. I would think it could be done the same. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5Kwnop9o55qfJI

[@GMAWarrior]

Good evening Excellent video, I have a similar problem with Dewalt DCD796, I already checked the fuses the two fuses, but they are in good condition, I measured some resistors, everything seems to be in good condition. I found out, when I disconnect the molex connector that goes to the motor, I assume it is the motor positioning sensor (the Light comes on), but wanting to change the intensity of the light, the change is not made. I measured the impedance of each phase of the motor, marking 1.3 Ω each phase, therefore I discard the motor. I want to assume that some capacitor or other component on the control board was damaged. Someone pass this on? 😱 Best Regards.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Thanks for sharing. I will ask why you thought the motor is bad? Did you mean across each of the 3 leads of the BLDC motor you were reading 1.3 ohms? As long as they are low like that and balanced, it sounds like it maybe fine? I believe the one in this video was less than 1 ohm, but similar.

[@andrewgirgis2108]

Hi i have dcd778 electric board damaged (broken)is there any way to use the motor again 😢

[@ThriftyToolShed]

So you mean run the motor again by using it for something else?

[@andrewgirgis2108]

@@ThriftyToolShed yes exactly with a new electronic board or something else you suggest!?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I believe this is a brushless or BLDC Motor and I have shown in videos running a similar brushless motor before on some Ridgid tools. I believe I used a BLDC controller to show running a Ridgid brushless drill motor and I even had enough room in a Ridgid jigsaw to install it and still use it. If you have 3 leads for the windings it's easy to hook up. I use a sensorless or hall less controller so you only need the 3 winding wires. It's super easy. Sometimes even the little cheap hobby type will work fine at the 20V or 5S voltage level. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppbPoZyfasppq8U

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Ridgid drill running motor video below. I had to remove the built in controller board from this type and solder wires on the 3 windings, but it may not be like that with yours? kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5Kwnop9o55qfJI

[@CARLOSAUGUSTO-nt6oq]

Thenks . My 996 stop Power. Im repar

[@t.hussain6278]

What us rpm of the bldc motor - without the chuck assembly?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I did not check. I am not sure.

[@t.hussain6278]

@@ThriftyToolShed ok

[@chris746568462]

I'm pretty sure the cable and sensor in the gearbox is for the torque selector on these drills. I have two of these, from what I can see it doesn't have a mechanical torque mechanism in the gearbox. It is normally done with spring loaded balls against tabs on the final drive ring gear. This drill does not have that. Instead I think the selector just tells the controller to cut the motor at a stall current then jitter to simulate the classic mechanical type.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Yes, I believe it is also. That is a feature that has now become much more common. We have some comments down below with some conversation about the sensor as well. Thanks for sharing!

[@PRz-gu1qv]

I have plenty of DeWalt XR tools, there's some serious problem with it, trigger broke in more that 4 different power tools as is integrated with an engine repair is not profitable

Hello. I have this card too. Defective. Burn a resistor on it. His name is not read. Can you help me.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Hi, I no longer have this drill. It belonged to a friend. All I have for reference is the footage in this video and the follow up video on the repair.

I understand. Is there a circuit diagram online?

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Oh how I wish. You can't find schematics for anything made these days it seems. That's one of the main reasons I share when I do have something broken on the bench. So we can learn as much as possible, especially when many viewers share as well in the comments or videos of their own.

Thank you

[@alexandres8846]

The big problem with brushless tools is their very complex and delicate control electronics. They cannot be repaired and the entire circuit must be replaced. Brushed motor tools are extremely robust and their 4-pole versions are very powerful, which is why they still exist. many dewalt xrp series tools 15 or 20 years old working today.

[@_RocketRooster]

You say they can't be repaired and you just watched a video of one that was repaired. lol

[@adipmh7302]

Pentru viitor te rog activeaza subtritarea...

[@secondlife1970]

If someone wants to see how to fix a different type of failure for dead brushless DeWalt drill, with the brushless driver board troubleshooting details, see here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWqspGWopNCVi7M.

[@ThriftyToolShed]

Awesome find. I guess these controllers are plagued with more than one issue. It's crazy how many viewers expressed the same failure as I showed in the video. I had no idea if it was common at the time. Thanks for sharing another issue as well.

[@secondlife1970]

Thank you@@ThriftyToolShed for the appreciations, I like to share my findings, the more we save and reuse the better is for everybody.

[@jernejloknar8011]

This comment needs more exposure and upvotes, thanks.

While i am the first one who made a video about this repair my video is the least watched one....

[@ThriftyToolShed]

I could not find any repair information or video while searching on this drill before working on it for my friend. I had a lot to learn and share as we learned together. I made a mistake on the fuse size and had to record an update video about the repair. If you had a video out, make sure that keywords help with search especially the smaller the channel the more keywords help is when viewers search. We all win when we can see repairs and information as we fix things instead of throwing out!

@@ThriftyToolShed Maybe regions, maybe language, maybe me.. Who knows. Here is mine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hV6xY5ubds5obaM