Thrustmaster T248 - 1st impression Talk and Drive! Some stuff you need to know!!!

[@SimRacingCorner]

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[@JoeGaffey]

I won a T248 in a RaceRoom stream. Impressed enough so far to delay my DD ambitions for a while. Coming from a g29 definitely getting more and stronger feels. Pedals are a nice step up too.

[@Thunspeed]

Does the wheel turns faster than G29?

[@JoeGaffey]

@@Thunspeed Yes I would say so.

[@Thunspeed]

@@JoeGaffey Thanks! 👍🏻

[@stratcat3216]

I went from G29 to full belt drive (no gears like this wheel) and am happy for it. (CSL ELite wheel base)

[@jdemunter5235]

I just got this wheel after a t150 with G29 pedals. Although many may say the t300 is a better buy I chose this because it is 7 years newer. It means longer support and probably much more improvement. I find it enough of an improvement to call it an upgrade. Great plug and play allround wheel if the fanatec and the like stuff is too hard on your wallet.

[@pascalrofeldt7571]

I turned the fbb down and its way more realistic to me. Judging as a normal driver, no real life racing or something, but that wheel puts so mich strength into it. But im new to all this, may change my mind someday :))

[@n003326]

same, i actually thought the wheel was malfunctioning the way i had to fight it but i later found out that that was the ffb and is meant to do that for the immersion. still tinker with that sweet spot

[@onsendoggo]

Me too. When I first got the T248, I thought 100% FFB on FFB profile 1 was the best set up. Boys, I had no idea how wrong I was. I don't know about you guys but I find that 65% on FFB profile 1 is closer to my real life experience. If anyone still reading this, please share your settings I will definitely check it out!

[@EspenFrafalne]

Yeah, 100% FFB on WRC 10 seem perfect if you want a GOOD workout, LOL! I read some instructions on setting it up for WRC 10, which amongst many tweaks recommended to put the "overall force" down to 65% on the wheel, and 75% in WRC 10. It did increase 1 of the settings in WRC 10 to 135%, but most of them were lowered considerably. I have not yet found the perfect setting, but at least it is a lot better than having everything on 100%, LOL!

[@MrMightyZ]

Seems nice and quiet compared to my old G27 but those paddles sound like hydraulic stamps! “PUH-CHUCK!”😁

[@JohnnyEMatos]

I just ordered a second hand T248 for $230 USD in great conditions, it's only missing the table mount but I have one that fits from my current T80, which is a pain in the ass to drive, so I sure can't complain about any of the cons

[@tiag8983]

quick question did the t248 go down in price? they're all 200 for me including pedals fully new

[@mula9058]

@@tiag8983i bought a brand new one for $299.99 so i don’t think so unless you looking for a refurbished or used one

[@stratcat3216]

Well done video. very informative and to the point. Thanks.

[@FruitLoop2020]

In AMS2, I’ve found the display on the wheel won’t change

[@MrMightyZ]

(5th review I clicked on but 1st that sounds non-sponsored👍)

[@combatwombat594]

If my wheel hadn't broke and I was just looking at an upgrade, I probably wouldn't have bought this. But if you're in the same boat as me, where you're wheel is kind of janky and you need something new, this wheel really is good. If you're coming from a T150 or G29, it at least feels like an upgrade when you use it.

[@f0nbyr334]

I just upgraded from a broken trx and I have to say it does feel smoother, just a little less than what I expected but its still nice to be able to play again

[@combatwombat594]

@@f0nbyr334 It does just feel like it lacks something. I feel like it's because they gave it some higher end features, while still making the entire thing plastic. As I said in my original comment, I would never have bought it if it weren't for my T150 taking a shit on me basically. It's still technically usable, but that's a long story lol I do have to say, the pedals that come with the T248 are almost loadcell quality tho. With the stiff black spring inserted in the brake, it gives great feel that's able to be replicated a lot more than any other cheaper offerings

[@tiag8983]

​@@combatwombat594 you can replace the wheel with a nice wheel and make it feel much better

[@combatwombat594]

@@tiag8983 not without tearing the entire thing apart, which isn't something I'm willing to do with it unfortunately. They put the damn things together with 100+ screws and it just isn't worth the frustration to me

[@gurkenmarmelade3137]

@@combatwombat594 is it better for drifting than the g29?

[@bp5462]

When I try to play assetto Corsa competizion my clutch is the gas and my gas is the clutch if I try to invert it in the settings it makes the gas the break and the break the clutch I can’t switch it to make it correct in the settings. (PS5)

[@SimRacingCorner]

Read the manual, you can flip that using the button on the wheelbase.

[@All3N.25]

Deciding on getting the t300rs gt and the t248 but cant make my mind on what to get. Because the t248 offers a better and reliable pedals than the t300rs since it uses a magnets rather than potentiometer where dust can ruin its accuracy while the t300rs offers a better shaped wheel, a better ffb and faster centering speed but a not so reliablr pedals and overheating issues. Can you help me decide what to buy

[@egyardiya]

I've been wondering about the same thing for a couple of weeks now, here's my take. If you can get the t300rs gt with warranty, go for it. I'm sure you know by now about the unreliability issues plaguing the t300rs. The way I see the t248 is that it's supposed to replace the t150 in the market and sometime in the future the t248 will cost the same or at least as close as the t150 today while in the other hand the t300rs had already reached its lowest price and is now waiting for a replacement. All I'm saying is that the t300rs is supposed to be a better product than the t248 but they're priced the same because the t248 is still really new. I decided to get myself a t300rs a few days ago based on these. Hope this helps :)

[@RacingTherapy]

@@egyardiya What's your first impressions of the T300? Thinking on getting the t300 gt edition for my PS5

[@egyardiya]

@@RacingTherapy to be honest this is my first wheel ever and therefore I'm not sure whether or not my opinion counts. That being said, I absolutely love t300 ( I have the gt version too) especially after the recent firmware update that introduces the "boost" function. Seriously I can't believe not that many people talk about this boost thing. IMO the boost thing is a game changer and it makes the wheel feels like a different and better wheel. But I'm not sure if it's available outside of PC, but it's still a very good wheel even without the boost feature especially in the price range and I'm sure you'd be happy with it.

[@RacingTherapy]

@@egyardiya i think I'm getting the T300 GT Edition as well, then later I'll upgrade to TLC-M Pedals if i find it necessary Thank you for your reply my friend.

[@teawizard]

@@RacingTherapy what did you go for mate? Just looking!

[@WarpaintStudios]

just a comment about where you mentioned resistance instead of "rumble" when going round corners, is this a thing with ALL wheels? even the DD wheels due to the gears (and whatever DD uses) only being able to do one or the other or is this what DD elimiates and can do both? if that is the case then i think a rumble feature (like that in controllers) would be best added to wheels (in the wheel, not the base) to simulate vibration on the track and everything else is FFB.

[@SimRacingCorner]

This occurs as the motor has hit its peak output. More powerful motors (Direct Drive) can provide both weight resistance and FFB effects at the same time.

[@WarpaintStudios]

@@SimRacingCorner oh ok, so in theory, could you reduce the amount of ffb that goes to resistance and increase the road feel so that there is room for both on corners? (assuming a game has the settings to do so). Just thinking of possible ways to maximise the feel on a lower budget wheel. I'm waiting on delivery of a T248 as upgrading from a logitech wingman but couldn't afford to go up to DD as paying on credit

[@SimRacingCorner]

@@WarpaintStudios In theory, yes. But understand that the FFB strength setting scales like a volume across everything. So lowered FFB means lighter weight resistance, and lighter FFB effects.

[@WarpaintStudios]

@@SimRacingCorner ah, ok. I'll just have to have a play around and see what i'm willing to sacrifice, power or feeling everything (though it's not like i've had a feel of road and corners at the sae time anyway on my wingman) 😅

[@gergelykoszegi9541]

Have you tried setting spring & damper force to 0? It gave nonticable more detail on t300

[@SimRacingCorner]

I do know what you mean, I had those at 0 in this test.

[@JoeGaffey]

Definitely feels better to me with these at zero. Sluggish and heavy otherwise.

[@kissofracing5588]

why

[@jjpython]

i own one, and the cheaper t128, i totally agree with you, i am sure its the driver for the wheel thats the limiting factor, its a great wheel, but could do better

[@ads427]

on amazon as of today (29/10/21) the T300 wheel & pedal set is cheaper than the T248 (£294 vs £315!)

[@ads427]

T150 Pro is £240

[@SimRacingCorner]

Yes, I also checked the prices after publishing and the T300 is currently lower (a few days back the T300RS bundle was £279). Interestingly I bought my TMX Pro for just £148, new, directly from Thrustmaster a couple of years ago in the Friday sale. If you track the prices they can swing significantly. Even the G29 I picked up from Curry's in a sale was just £118. Happy days if you get your timing right!

[@ads427]

@@SimRacingCorner prices are always shifting up and down!! For my money speed on track is down to the pedals anyway. Load cell pedals plus pretty much any FFB wheel is winable in a game if u are a decent driver in the first place

[@epidemicz]

@@ads427 any suggestions if you don't have the last bit sorted out yet?

[@rocky-cz2yy]

I have this wheel setup please tell me why pedals are so hard to press is it good or bad or it will get smoother while gaming

[@edwardjosephx]

@@rocky-cz2yy nope stays pretty hard tbh

[@thecutelaptalo3934]

When he said 300 pound wheelbase my American dumbass thought he was talking about weight

[@sbc5731]

Lmaooooo

[@szabolcstorok5856]

Hey, could you please tell me what FFB settings you used ingame in this video? Would help me a lot to know

[@SimRacingCorner]

GAIN: 80, LFB: 20, FX: 50, DAMPING: 0, MSS: 0

[@szabolcstorok5856]

@@SimRacingCorner Thanks!

[@johngreek]

300$ in my country , is it good for my first PC setup ?

[@RonBurrgundy]

is it smaller than T300 Ferrari Integral Racing Wheel Alcantara Edition ?

[@SimRacingCorner]

Yes it is

[@RonBurrgundy]

@@SimRacingCorner Understood. Thank you. I hat T300 ferrari Alcantara and it was 2 small for me, this one seems even smaller. Very sad.

[@noxdg]

Is the t248 compatible with Thrustmaster’s Sim Hub?

[@OnlyInMiami305]

I was torn between getting the T248 and the t300rs GT. So I guess I should spend the extra money and get the T300rs gt

[@TheMaGe-]

bad move

[@szabolcstorok5856]

@@TheMaGe- why? Im on the same boat as him

[@CSS_Fifty]

​@@TheMaGe- How come?

[@goranmajnaric556]

T300 - Batter base, more ffb power, smoother, changeble wheel T248 - more option and buttons on wheel and lcd, batter pedals, cheaper, and for now less malfunction products. Compare to t150 it worth the money by a lot, but to T300 thats your choice. I would say if you plan spend and upgrade your sim rig more, go for T300, And if you are just buying as an entry to sim racing, and not sure will you be interested that much, go for T248 its more complete product. From what i looked over internet T248 most expensive but it is best entry level product. And it is upgrade over the Logitech.

[@szabolcstorok5856]

@@goranmajnaric556 Yeah the price in my country is exactly the same between the two wheels, and I think I'll just go with the T300 since I already had a G29, and my reason for upgrading is the loud noise and constant vibrations in the G29 wheel. But still, the T248 would be also an amazing option, as it has better pedals. I think I'll just wait and think it through which one to get

[@morrisjms]

is the a way to make the clicking sound less?

[@SimRacingCorner]

No

[@eefm99]

Put something behind that can "absorb" the noise.

[@Mopantsu]

Yes. But you have to take the rim apart and use electrical tape on the contacts. There is a video on KZbin showing how to do it.

[@tamilgun3409]

Why is the steering so heavy? Its harder to trun

[@Dcully]

Hi guys my brother git this wheel today and he's saying sensitivity is way too low in AMS 2 , is there anything she is missing? Firmware is updated etc, there doesn't seem to be a control scheme for it in AMS 2 , any advice I can pass on? He is totally new to simracing.

[@SimRacingCorner]

It sounds like he didn't run the wheel calibration in the game settings.

[@Dcully]

@@SimRacingCorner thanks a lot I'll pass it on , keep up the great content

[@Dcully]

@@SimRacingCorner thanks ive said this to him already, if you get a chance would you mind sharing your t248 settings for AMS2 please.

[@SimRacingCorner]

@@Dcully The only thing I can add, is make sure the Control Scheme is set to 'Custom'. Gain 80, LFB 10, FX 60, Dampening 0

[@Dcully]

@@SimRacingCorner thanks a lot

[@Sabre_Wulf1]

Been looking for a cheap wheel to just casual gt7...this looks to tick the boxes..but..those clicks. I play at night with family in bed...

[@krzysztofcylwich2817]

The paddles are SO loud jesus

[@mattalford3932]

First off how did you even get your pc to recognize the wheel lol. Works great on my ps4. Won't work on my pc.

[@SimRacingCorner]

Did you install the PC drivers and update the firmware?

[@mattalford3932]

@@SimRacingCorner yeah I went to thrustmaster. Downloaded the driver package. Ran it, but nothing happens after I restart my pc when prompted. I've seen a bunch of people saying they are having the same issue, but no fix.

[@mattalford3932]

I'm going to try again today. It's weird. My thrustmaster t150 worked out of the box. The t248 works great on my ps4 pro.

[@SimRacingCorner]

@@mattalford3932 Have you also updated the firmware. I needed to do that before my PC recognised the wheel.

[@mattalford3932]

@@SimRacingCorner that's the weird part. When I click on the firmware download it just tells me how to download the driver package. I see people using this wheel on pc all the time so I'll figure it out lol.

[@yellowdust6007]

does it run well on fh5?

[@SimRacingCorner]

Yes

[@brulaapgaapmeester8052]

I'm not in the market for this wheel, probably will order a CSL DD soon, coming from a T300, but regardless of that, I really couldn't live with the noise the shifters make. Such a loud and cheap sounding plastic click, people in neighbouring countries can hear it.

[@brulaapgaapmeester8052]

@@____________________ok A couple of minutes ago I ordered a CSL DD, not interesting I know, but I ordered the WRC wheel to go with it, not the McLaren GT3, though I wanted to, but it also has very loud shifters. That's the only reason I don't want it. Magnetic shifter always have a certain click, but the more expensive ones sound a bit more civilized IMO. A German reviewer actually tested the sound of the McLaren and measured 75 dBA for the shifters. That is pretty loud, the T248 sounds at least that loud. The other noises it makes is probably just due to the system used, and also not really nice, but I feel they could have designed the shifters to be less loud. The hollow plastic housing of both this wheel and the McLaren GT3 probably acts as an amplifier too.

[@brulaapgaapmeester8052]

@@____________________ok Thanks, it's gonna be a wait until mid december though. :-)

[@Bobbarker23455]

@@brulaapgaapmeester8052 worth the wait man csl dd is excellent, congrats!

[@JoeGaffey]

I reckon the shifter click could be fixed with a mod. A piece of card behind the paddle held a lot so I expect a more permanent solution should be easy enough to figure out.

[@brulaapgaapmeester8052]

@@JoeGaffey I have seen a video to adress the problem, it involved opening the wheel and putting some felt somewhere. But I didn't want to open a brand new wheel to modify it, possibly voiding the warranty. Maybe one day I'll buy a dedicated formula wheel, but the WRC will be fine, it is basically no different from the Ferrari wheel I have on the T300. If that wheel would fit on the Fanatec, I wouldn't have ordered a new one at all. :-)

[@goranmajnaric556]

pedals should be batter then on t300 rs gt

[@djdevontay]

Hmm

[@SimRacingCorner]

Indeed

[@michaellattanzio]

This or G29 with shifter ?

[@THESHADOW97139]

G29 : 2.1 nm G25 : 2.5 nm

[@eefm99]

This. Logitech's shifter isn't great anyway.

[@THESHADOW97139]

TX/T300

[@landroide7975]

T248 have much problems. No good for long races

[@andyr3802]

Terribly noisy shifter paddles - yikes.

[@Gorealaracer38]

I read this alot,are u people not suppose to playin? Does it hurt ur ears? Who tf cares?!? Seriously? What smart person cares?!? Its not a REAL WHEEL,THIS IS SIMULATION 😂!!! BUILD 1 A MAKE IT 'QUIET' THEN AND SEE IF U CAN SELL MORE = END OF THE WINE'N FROM ALOTA U 'NEW KIDS' THESE DAYS SMH.....WOW!!!

[@Werkvuur]

It seems worse in the video than it is. When you're actually playing the game with the sound on it's not bothersome.

[@Cooe.]

IMO, the ideal FFB settings for this wheel are a 100% maxed out force setting w/ the separate "FFB preset" setting set to "FFB3" (aka, the strongest/most detailed). With that configuration in a good game like say Assetto Corsa, it can push out a SHOCKING amount and fidelity of force for what is a mere ≈$260-$300 complete package these days! 😳 And that's not even considering the punching way, WAAAAAY above their weight class "T3PM" pedal box!!! 🤯