TOP 9 TIPS for how to rest on a sport climb 🧗‍♀️ with pro climber Svana Bjarnason

[@telofy]

Thank you! Those are great! One tip that was very important for me was to rest even before I feel any pump, because once the pump sets in, it’s kind of too late. It’s some sort of feedback effect that is easier to delay than to reverse.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Yes!! When I’m onsighting I definitely take every rest I possibly can because who knows when it’ll be the last rest!!

[@valgoesoutdoors1505]

Exactly! I often do that, otherwise I’m not able to reach the top. I’m not Janja, I need every rest possible 😅

[@telofy]

@@AnnaHazelnutt Oh yes, that too! But I was specifically referring to the case where you know the route and know that there’s the start; rests 1, 2, and 3; and the top: But if you skip rests 1 & 2, you *can* make it to rest 3, but then can’t recover anymore (except maybe if you can hang hands-free for half an hour or so), but if you take rests 1 & 2 even though you hardly feel any pump at that point, the pump is less at rest 3 and you can still recover within a minute. It was very useful when I discovered it! And that was just a traverse in a bouldering gym. Suddenly I could complete it without excessive pain! xD The micro-shakes also made a big difference though!

[@darkartsclimbing]

I appreciate that you filmed these all while actually resting on a sport climb. Great tips!

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

😂 it was harder than anticipated haha

[@privit7009]

Love these, Anna! I like steep, pumpy climbing but I also sh*t my pants at the thought of big whips so the resulting over-gripping has me constantly scouring the wall for rests. Got this video saved now!

[@iskuhiboyadjian3495]

Great tips!!!! Now, if only I can remember them when I'm climbing.

[@roxanaelenabucur8222]

This is so much fun on such a great route!!! Great tips too!

[@ehgeese]

Nice! A big part of resting for me is also coming out of the rest in the best way possible, with a good beta for the sequence ahead. Sometimes you may need to go just a tiny bit "off route" to get to a nice rest, and getting back into the route can be a bit tricky. Also, don't be afraid to use the same rest twice - if you made a mistake starting back on the route: retreat, shake out, analyse!

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Totally!! As long as going back doesn’t get in your head and let’s you recover more, I’m all about the down climb recovery haha

[@alixvolte]

Thank you for the tips! This flamingo rest looks gorgeous, definitely want to try it out as soon as I find the opportunity! Also, love the collab with Svana; looking forward for the following video :D

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Yes try it out!! It was so fun filming with Svana, I’m excited for the next vid too 😆😆

[@damienleoskyangel9350]

Thank you! The video while at the top to show how it's done is so helpful!

[@galatruc5480]

This makes me miss sport climbing hehehe... but an amazing collab! (And amazing jackets!!) Super excited for the coming one!!

[@mathiaskreuter4506]

These tips help a lot. Some of them I knew and used quite successfully (no-hands, hand-jam,...) before. Some of them are very interesting to try... thanks a lot to both of you a for sharing with us 🙌😊

[@ReaperUnreal]

These were really solid, hope I'll remember these next time I'm out climbing.

[@leoingson]

Great unique stuff! For me it's important to actively flip the switch in my head to REST, breathing helps further.

[@Bobbzorzen]

Thanks for the tips, i've just started lead climbing lately and the pump when akwardly trying to clip is insane, gonna try all of these!

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Yesss!

[@ArinaThomsen]

Flamingo rest and the high heel hook are really something!

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Righ?! Svana is a PRO

[@svanabjarnason6717]

@@AnnaHazelnutt hahaha i have to say I'm pretty proud of the flamingo pose :D

[@Yaimdan]

Lots of great tips!

[@benja_mint]

subcategory of relaxing while resting: my tip for resting calves is to try and find a position where you can get your weight off your toes and onto your heels. if i ever get to a ledge or a good foothold i make a conscious effort to not only stand on my tip-toe, but also relax down so that my heel is supported.

[@valgoesoutdoors1505]

Some resting positions can be quite bad. So know when it’s time to move on. You don’t have to rest for half a minute then. Take a couple of deep breaths, shake out what’s possible on that position and climb on. Micro rests are the bomb! Just shaking out the arm going from one hand hold to the next can make a difference.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Yes!! Knowing exactly how much to squeeze out of a rest can be crucial to sending or not!

[@soniagm3789]

Super tips!!!👍 Me encantó el vídeo!! Voy a intentar aplicarlooooo... 😅😘😘

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Siiii!!! Jaja la próxima vez q escalamos podemos practicar estos descansos jaja

[@antonkvart7524]

Mono campusing it`s my favorite way to rest)

[@Balard40k]

These were fantastic!

[@TheUnknownFactor]

One that I would like to add is... Sometimes there's a good rest at a point where you're not quite at the crux, and not quite exhausted yet. If there aren't any more good rests before the crux left, still take that rest (even if you're not completely pumped)

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Totally! Yes yes

[@RealWorldClimbing]

This was great! Reminded me of some rest techniques and even a few new ones to try out! I think half the battle is identifying potential rests in the first place.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Haha totally! Like if that inverted foot cam would be a winner 😂

[@ryanrhoades5574]

Incredibly insightful

[@briannerecker7591]

Gotta try the flamingo! I love resting in frog pose (you get your feet high, and you squat down with your knees open and your hips close to the wall).

[@svanabjarnason6717]

do try it it's the best :D but yes, the frog one is also is good one

[@Tokahfang]

Thanks!

[@geoffswyka1143]

Thank you!!

[@SonnyKnutson]

@Anna Hazelnutt I often find myself sitting on my heel. Instead of using my toes I plant down my heel and sit over it with my hip. That makes you get super close to the wall. You can hang down with the other leg and press against the wall to help offload your arms even more. Because you push your upperbody closer to the wall by doing that. It's the best resting position (except a no hand rest) that I know :P

[@benja_mint]

i've tried this a few times, sitting down with my butt on my heel and... it just never felt as restful as i expected. my hips always remain at least a few cm away from the wall due to flexibility ... could that be the problem? edit: does it still work on vertical or is it strictly only useful for slightly positive walls?

[@Jmach72]

Great tips!

[@Gecko2601]

I did start to count on my rest, too, but not to know how long I can hold before changing hands. I started because after a "long rest" (and then not enough power to complete the route) my partner said "why did you only rest for a few seconds" 😒 Next go I counted to 60 and climbed to the top 👍

[@courtclimbs]

One thing I'm trying to focus on lately is the amount of time I rest for. I feel like I don't rest for nearly long enough, so I've been trying to count to make sure I rest longer.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Yes! The counting is a great tip because you can actually gauge how tired you’re getting with a number

[@zoltanzoltan8317]

Where is this? 👍🏼

[@Lolafontinis]

Molt interessant el vídeo; el repòs del flamenco no el coneixia😂😂. Per cert això es la paret del Grau a Coll de Nargo, no?

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

😂😂 no el coneixia tampoc! Aquesta via es a Samarkanda en coll- crec que la paret del grau es a prop!

[@fly3513]

I take the last one as a joke:), you are awesome it really helped thanks ❤

[@itsevelynxx1275]

Literally am going sport climbing for three days this weekend at Snowdonia x, honestly thank you for this advice. Hope you're doing okay and I honestly love your channel x. Evelyn/Arden [They/She]

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Awww yesss have fun! I’m so glad you like this vid/ my vids!!

[@Candesce]

I'm not that great a climber but I thought I was above a video tutorial above resting. Turns out I'm not haha, there were lots of great tips in here that I'd never thought about before.

[@gunnaruppstad3574]

Great tips. Personally, I love a resting bat-position.

[@goartist]

"how you can rest on this wall" "thx, my couch works too" :P XD

[@dave_h_8742]

Drinking vodka before a send 😉 Stalk, fist jam (thought of cellar of doom) finger lock and bum sit were cool rests. For the al gorithem really

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Hahah bless 😂🙏🏽

[@SeraphinoII]

Has someone already said that resting is aid?

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

LOL

[@stitch3163]

A crack rest… Tom and Pete would be so proud, Anna.

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

😍🤭🙏🏽 hahah yesss

[@rimmelewood2637]

Not the mono finger jam rest!

[@zacharylaschober]

Stances. Not everywhere is worth a microshake or chalking or breathing, and when you have a stance for only a quick shake then do not try to rest or recover there. Simply because you can pause does not mean you should. Figure out how to use these before being tired, and be alright with changing the pacing by skipping a shake or pausing longer at a core intensive breathing stance. Most routes do not have a full recovery stance, many do not even have a proper rest, and some are devoid of anything but a few one handed shakes and a brief pause for breathing. Do not rest yourself off of a climb.

[@Adam12131]

Resting tips: try plan your rests in advance. Sometimes its worth down climbing to a rest

[@gibbonovic]

One more thing you can do is to press your fingers down on your leg so that it stretches your forearm.

[@Marrkse]

Watched the video in high hopes until you mentioned number 9 …

[@2002mitchell]

At LEAST half of climbing is resting!