TOUR ISSUE IRON BUILD

[@williamnicholson7211]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Great patient teaching method. A LOT easier to watch and note your methods than taking a week or so attending a club making school!

[@tonystoker4918]

Thank you for this video…I ran into this identical problem with the shaft not fitting tightly into the hosel. I wish I would have been aware of the tape. I epoxied the shaft and head best I could and it seems to be holding but I may have to re-do. You are a good and articulate instructor. I will be watching more epsodes.

[@maasim73]

Thanks AJ, I just learned another tip from you. I will start using those fiberglass tape when needed, i had some of those issues before when the hosel were slightly big. I’m using the same irons btw and i love them, its my first cavity back and i dont think I’ll ever go back to blades anymore 😊

[@gatgolf]

couple a points: would a collared ferrule solve the issue? Also how come you didn't check the swingweight before glueing? Or do you adjust SW with lead or tungsten powder down the shaft after the epoxy cures?

[@scotthucks7966]

Wow! Wish I had seen this video before asking a question to you earlier. This is exactly the problem I was having with a ping 9 iron. Since I already have epoxied the club, I will have to do this on the next one or redo this one if the head comes loose. You are the best! You should have a lot more subscribers as there is no other person on KZbin doing as good a job as you are!

[@EFGMC]

I appreciate the support. That head should stay put. Issue would only be if the shaft dried crooked. Usually would see it as too upright because the shaft was leaning against a wall when drying.

[@scotthucks7966]

@@EFGMC You are welcome, and as an update, the golf club that I reattached the head onto was used by the owner today and he made a hole-in-one with that club!

[@EFGMC]

@@scotthucks7966 Sounds like the club works just fine!

[@KleyDeJong]

Nice tip on the fiberglass tape!

[@EFGMC]

Cheap and easy. My favorite kind of tips.

[@lantigup]

Enjoyed it, I always pick up new knowledge from your videos, thank you!

[@joeflorence938]

Thank you for all the tips.

[@EFGMC]

Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!

[@tonycrews2758]

Many thanks Aj I have had that very problem many times , now I know how to combat that 👌👌

[@EFGMC]

Works great. I would also recommend mixing up a larger amount of epoxy as going back and forth with the adhesive on the tape seemed to slowly transfer some of the adhesive to the epoxy mix. Epoxy seemed to set a bit slower because of it. Or it may have just been stickier feeling because of it. Either way, I think a larger amount of epoxy would negate that effect.

[@Scrunchychingo]

That drywall joint tape is just a modern technique of the old school monofilament trick. I like it!

[@ianshepherd6476]

Love my apex pro 19’s they are such good irons and the 4 and 5 irons look smaller than some blades they really are beautiful irons.

[@EFGMC]

They for sure have a powerful compact look. Can't wait to get them on the course!

[@luke3milan]

Great tip! I have this exact problem with a Callaway 3 wood I am trying to build. I am currently waiting for delivery of some shims that I ordered online. Sounds like a quick trip to Home Depot can solve the problem! Thanks AJ!

[@EFGMC]

The Callaway fairway woods are even looser so they can take the shim without issue. But yes, you can use the tape instead. Probably requires two wraps around instead of just one like I showed.

[@luke3milan]

@@EFGMC okay good to know. Maybe I’ll wait for the shims to get here and see if they will work. If not I’ll go with your tape method. Thanks!

[@redhed9776]

ream out the hosel with the proper size bit..then use brass shim... metal is better than paper for filling gaps, imho... That's how I did it on my Callaway wedges.

[@ScottDreyfus]

Glass beads and a collared ferrule? I use the wire brush and a drill inside my ferrules and I hammer them on with epoxy and have never had issues seating them. It causes more mess but it's stuck in. Those heads are really light too. It'll be hard to get much swing weight without tip weights unless they are over length.

[@EFGMC]

These were standard weight heads, not b heads. I built them at 38.5 inch 5 iron and they were very heavy SW. Ended up pulling and getting rid of them as they just were too heavy to swing consistently.

[@paulwags662]

good tip

[@travisg.1310]

Awesome video!

[@EFGMC]

Thanks for watching!

[@billmalec]

Good stuff as always. Thanks.

[@EFGMC]

Thank you sir!

[@amgpuma]

Wonder if you check swing weight and MOI before or after assembly. Cheers

[@EFGMC]

Yes, I weighed everything before assembly. The SW is very heavy, going 1/2 inch over on length and with the Modus 115 being pretty tip heavy, this set is in the upper D range.

[@amgpuma]

@@EFGMC its a matter of preferences some golfers feel more comfortable with that

[@EFGMC]

@@amgpuma We will see how it goes. I usually can play with almost any swing weight as long as all the clubs are in the same ballpark.

[@davidwinstone2085]

The tape is great work around 👍. Could you also ream the heads out slightly to fit the shim ?

[@EFGMC]

You could go that route. You could also ream it to straight .370 size if you want. I think the tape is probably easier, but that's for you to decide.

[@jsgolfmd]

Enjoy watching your videos. Please, please, do a through video on the actual bending of loft and lie. Hopefully a close up. What I would like to see is a simple step by step video...ie; bending lie, does the bending bar align with the shaft, parallel to the leading edge, or perpendicular to the front of the machine. Questions like best place to position bending bar on hosel, high or low. I would really like a simple step by step guide. Thanking you in advance, insidetheleather. Please respond that you have seen my request. Do you have a Gmail or a email address?

[@EFGMC]

Thanks John. I will add it to the list.

[@craigwollmann1948]

AJ, Good video. I get a little precise sometimes. A little wiggle does not always tell me what I want to know. I am just beginning trying to do this work. I am reshafting some Wilson Irons. I see some looseness of the head on the shaft like you described. I measured shaft OD and Hosel ID with a caliper and saw a difference of about 0.010". Should I use Shim or fiberglass dry wall tape. Also the filing you do on the ferrule is to allow epoxy to go up the slot to secure the ferrule to the shaft. Is that correct? Could I put epoxy on ferrule ID, install on shaft and then wipe excess epoxy from shaft and attach dry wall tape with adhesive on tape and epoxy on head? Appreciate your thoughts. Regards, Keep up the good work.

[@EFGMC]

Shims are always easier to deal with. Sometimes I will cut every other leg off a shim if the fit is too tight otherwise. You could just put a dab of epoxy inside the ferrule and then install it. That would work fine.

[@charlesfitzgerald3201]

Awesome attention to detail , Thanks , great tips , I have a question ,, i bought a set of shaft pulls (modus3) and they had a plastic dowel in the tip from mizuno , 1 was missing and i drilled 1 out to see what it was , so it made me wonder is this a must have ?... is it to dampen a harsh feel , and can i do a reshaft with out it ? .. Your thoughts and tips would be very helpful. Thanks again.

[@EFGMC]

You will find those tip plugs in some irons sometimes. Completely useless and unnecessary. Have never gotten a good answer as to why OEMs use them. Often will see them in some irons but not others in the same set?? Just ignore them and focus on head weights, and not using too much epoxy. Thanks for your support!

[@charlesfitzgerald3201]

@@EFGMC Thanks for the reply , This video is very helpful.

[@dogankeskinkilic6070]

But, how come didn't check the swing weight before gluing....

[@EFGMC]

I weighed all the heads before hand (didn't show on camera) to make sure the heads were consistent. I already knew the shafts and grips weights were good b/c I used them in a previous set. So knowing that, swing weight measurement wasn't necessary.

[@billwlezien8859]

Were the shafts Taper Tip or Parallel tip??? Since the Mizuno head fit tight, that tells me the Callaway heads are .370 and the shafts were .355.

[@EFGMC]

Callaway's forged blades, cavities, and Pro series players distance irons are almost always .355.

[@bobpegram8042]

Would glas beads added to the epoxy get rid of the looseness of the heads on the shafts?

[@EFGMC]

These heads were way beyond regular shafting beads. Really are only supposed to use 5% beads per volume of epoxy. I know some people will use way more but I was taught otherwise. Even with higher bead concentration, shaft could still end up not straight. The tape method ensures the fit is centered. You can also use smaller amounts of tape if you have a hosel needing a special collared ferrule by just using the tape in place of that collar.

[@bobpegram8042]

@@EFGMC - I guess the only ones I have had problems with weren't as extreme. I also wasn't aware of any limit for the fiberglas beads, although it is never a huge percentage. My guess is the maximum I have ever used is about 15 to 20 percent, probably less. In some cases it was on my own clubs and I have not had any problems even with a swing speed over 100 mph. I put the ferrule on with the epoxy before I add the beads. I rarely use taper tip heads or shafts. I usually drill out any taper tip forged head to parallel by hand by clamping the drill sideways in a vise grip and turning it by hand. The drill takes the path of least resistance by taking out a minimum of metal on all sides of the hosel. Assuming the original hosel bore was straight, the parallel bore will also be straight. Have had a couple of hybrids and fairways that were a little wobbly before epoxy. The beads always seem to get rid of the problem. I check as soon as I slide the head on the shaft. I will keep the fiberglas drywall tape in mind. If the shafts are taper and the heads are taper, but wobbly you could tip trim the shafts slightly to get rid of the wobble. That would make them a little shorter so the shafts would have to be slightly too long (or more) to start.

[@EFGMC]

@@bobpegram8042 My 5% on beads number comes from the packaging on the Golfsmith shafting beads from 20 something years ago when I started doing all this. That is where I got the proportions I use. Is it right, I assumed back then it was but who knows. Skinning cats etc.

[@mikestrauss6904]

do you also use glass bead for centering along with the fiberglass tape?

[@EFGMC]

You can. Won't hurt. I put some beads in the epoxy I used but that was mainly for the non Callaway club I epoxied at the same time.

[@Stewwwwww]

Would u do if the swingweight is wrong?

[@EFGMC]

Adding tip weights to get everything in line. It's extremely difficult to get heads lighter so I usually base the result off the heaviest head in the set, then add weight to the lighter ones.

[@Oldbumlife]

What ruler do you use? Is that an attachment at the end of your ruler that can be purchased somewhere?

[@EFGMC]

This is just a standard 48 inch aluminum ruler with a gate strap hinge epoxied to the end of it.

[@arthurford829]

I think tour issue really just means the item has been weighed, measured, and sorted so that the tolerances are tighter.

[@paulwags662]

Youre correct. With Callaway they also have several variation in bounce and weight that may only be issued to tour players.

[@lazy_dad]

thanks! where do you source your iron heads from? especially the 'tour issue' ones. i was wanting to build a set but am having trouble finding any heads locally. i live in ontario, canada and would love to get a bargain on an older titleist or wilson blade set to try and apply all i have learned from you!!

[@EFGMC]

I am all over the internet when looking for new stuff. Some eBay with certain sellers. Also a few different golf forums that have marketplaces. That is where you can often find some really unique stuff in great condition.

[@billchuplis9460]

Any thoughts on the clone iron heads the suppliers offer? I love the prices on some but no way to know if the grooves are tour legal.

[@EFGMC]

@@billchuplis9460 Probably case by case. Suppose you could try and ask if they are USGA/RA conforming??

[@luke3milan]

Would Quick Center Glass Shafting Beads correct this issue? I was thinking about trying those but perhaps your method is more reliable.

[@EFGMC]

Beads aren't designed to do this job. Only supposed to use around 5% beads to epoxy volume which won't do. I know some people use beads or even sand mixed with epoxy but not my recommendation. Also the beads won't guarantee the fit is centered, the shaft could still lean.

[@luke3milan]

@@EFGMC okay thanks for the info. On a side note, is there any chance you could do a video on repairing rock chips in irons? I got a nasty rock chip in my 8 iron when hitting out of a fairway bunker. I want to try to repair it but don’t want to make it look worse!

[@EFGMC]

@@luke3milan Usually the best method for this is cold forging. Hitting the metal with a hammer to try and move the material around and smooth out the damage. That being said, I've never actually tried to do it. Might try to do a video unless I am too bad at it to show in public.

[@luke3milan]

@@EFGMC oh really? Interesting. I was expecting you to suggest grinding and polishing methods. I would be very interested to see how you do that. Seems like it would be an art form that may take some trial and error to figure out.

[@EFGMC]

@@luke3milan If you grind it, you will end up with rust since you take the finish off it even if you polish it. This method is supposed to be better and also doesn't loose weight like grinding does.