Troubleshooting An RV Refrigerator That Works On LP But Not On Electric

[@larryreno8293]

This is the best rv systems diagnostic channel on KZbin! No guessing, no parts swapping in hopes it's fixed. Clear and simple diagnostics that lead to the failed component. Great job, keep'em coming!

[@MyRVWorks]

Thanks for watching, I'll keep making them. Been kind of busy with customers lately but it should slow down a bit where I can put more quality in my videos.

[@yappinyorkies]

Please help .I got a new board and heating element. Checked all fuses and breaker is good .3 service calls later my check light is flashing and it won't work unless I run it on propane .what am I missing.

[@larryreno8293]

@@yappinyorkies did you check for 120V at the board?

[@yappinyorkies]

@@larryreno8293 yes

[@yappinyorkies]

Everything is weird, so it won't work on ac ,but clicks over to propane. I need a picture of wires hooked up to control board to make sure all of them are right, but I can't find one.the only thing I know is new element and maybe front panel inside r.v

[@davidparker6577]

Finally. In depth analysis for my refrigerator. Awesome work. Thanks for making the effort Darren. It is appreciated more than you know.

[@MyRVWorks]

If you liked that one make sure you get the more in-depth one where I draw a picture on the airflow on the back! Here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4XCZnt9mpmkY80 Happy Camping! Cheers, Darren

[@bigdogrobbiet]

Does 120 need to be coming from both j7 and j8 or just one side

[@riverbottomband]

I had a RARE problem but thanks for the video in help figuring it out. My refrigerator would work on power sometimes then it would stop only to minutes later switch back. Mine was the receptacle with the slice termination blades. Where you lay the wire between to pinch blades. I would get power until a jolt of some kind would knock something lose in the receptacle. I wouldn't have power so I'd unplug the cord and check the receptacle and then have power. I guess everytime I touched it it would trigger the fault off or on. I scratched my head and tested for 2 days until I figured it out. I changed the cheap receptacle to a standard one now everything is fine. I have never seen a receptacle like it really. I wonder what village in China they found it in !! Thanks a bunch for the video though. You are very kind to show people for free on here so I liked and subscribed. Least I could do.

[@joelnolte80]

hey Darren, thanks for the time and effort you put into your video's. I live in my RV full time (many many hundreds of miles away from your mobile service, I might add) - having a pro walk me thru these troubleshooting processes is just amazing. I've learned so much!

[@lanenewton6031]

M😢😢⁰😅jl🎉😢😢🎉🎉 6:23 😢😮7t🎉I 😅8🎉k

[@robertmontijo1314]

Thanks for the info,I had my fridge rebuilt and it only worked on lp,I called the company back bit no answer after paying 2700. This was 1 year ago, so today I started thinking it's gotta be something easy so I found your video and it walked me step by step and I found a blown fuse. Thank you very much for helping me out and saving me a butt load of money.hopefully this fuse fixes my problem

[@ts4634]

A great instructional video! I used to think when I was going to use my University Physics I & II while I was in college. Well, here I am beginning to remember all those classes by watching the video. This is so much better than calling useless RV repair guys who charge you so much for not accomplishing much and show up totally unprepared. I really like the outline, the breakdown of potential issues and a great summary in the end.

[@makchik2000]

This was a wonderful tutorial. My husband and I do not know much about propane appliances except of course for our bbq. Last week our dometic propane fridge in the rv stopped working on propane. We left it on electric power for the week and thought we would have to get the rv company to travel to our campground to service it. After watching your video, we tapped the silver cylinder then used our air compressor to clear out the debris, now it is working fine. Thank you sooooo much!

[@ninjaryder1st]

Curious to know what you tapped.. My heating system is all black piping rather than silver. Can you describe which part you tapped? Thinking I may have a blockage of some sort in the system if cooling does not occur with gas or 120 V power. Still troubleshooting reason for now cooling.

[@badiamond2]

Thank you very much for your video. We have an Atwood frig. We had a power outage a couple of days ago. We noticed frozen food starting to thaw. The control box you show and mine are similar. I did all the tests and was very frustrated as we live in our rv and I couldn’t figure out what to do. I opened the control box and low and behold I found the 3 amp fuse had blown. I work away from home and luckily I decided to come home for Father’s Day and noticed a problem. My lovely wife did not suspect anything wrong and definitely would not have figured out what to do. I would have had to call a technician for how many hundreds to find out it was just a fuse. Thank you again for your video.

[@1hhranch]

Thanks for this video. Very clearly done. I had an electrical problem and I followed the steps you show. It lead to the conclusion that the heating element was bad. I replaced the heating element and all is well. I knew nothing about refrigeration before watching your video. Thank you so much.

[@michaelr.kellysr4721]

I watch your converter replacement and the problems with the refrigerator not running on 110. It was the heating element, replaced it after watching your videos. We are up and running and mommy’s happy. Lol thanks for the videos they were great help.

[@timbermudez7292]

Just a quick note to say, "Thank You." Your troubleshooting techniques were spot on. My Norcold had been giving me issues from the moment I purchased the RV. Your expertise narrowed the area I needed to troubleshoot. Turns out I had a bad board. Ordered up a new boards and installed. My fridge is working like a champ on AC now....no problem. Many thanks!!

[@michaelwhitaker3452]

I have a Norcold N811. The cooling coil leaked. Ordered a replacement, swapped it out no big deal. Been a Mechanic/ Electrician for 30+ yrs. No issues with Function before cooling coil problem. Turned the unit off, after the new coil arrived I changed it over, put it all back together, no issues. Works fine except it will not run on Electric now. Checked Heating Element 46.5 ohms. According to info looked up that’s perfect. Ordered replacement boards 4 to be exact. Also New Optical board, purchase power is steady 115.7vac up to 118.4vac. Burner controls light every time, after initial startup, green indicator comes on steady and then the LP controls take over, while yellow gas ind. comes on steady, green ind. flashes three times. That gets it good and cold but it acts like it is not seeing 115 vac at all. All new boards do exactly the same start up. I even marked the connections with a red marker to keep from forgetting the proper wiring locations, even though it’s kind of self explanatory. So I’ve looked and researched for over a month and half now but nobody has anymore helpful tips. I took the limit switch out of play, and installed jumper. Thermistor is the only thing not replaced besides fan which works well. I like your videos BTW.

[@thecentralscrutinizer5105]

WoW!! am I ever so glad I stumbled across this one. You, my man, knows exactly what your doing after watching a couple of your informative vids here and my utmost respect goes out for that alone! I guess I'm an RV owner now, if a 1980 Fleetwood Sunset counts? I bought it on Sunday July 4th. It's been well preserved, 36,000 original, and put away (improperly, somebody shrink-wrapped the entire thing and stuck it out under an out buildings eve.) for a long time. Now after getting it home, the fun begins!! I service consumer electronics and I'm also not a bad mechanic (only on my stuff) Amazingly, the elderly folks who owned this thing kept up everything interior wise, and in the glove is every Owners manual for everthing from the generator, refidge, microwave, 9" color tv w/ VCR, down to the aftermarket cruise control, and even the _Kraco_ AM/FM/Cassette radio w/ locking FF!! lolz (which works fine & wired to 4 factory Fleetwood coaxial spkrs)...The Kraco just got replaced today w/ a 7" touchscreen GPS/Stereo/MP3 system, But now down in the basement...lol, they neglected any of the maintainence other than having the fluids, tires changed. I spent almost 90 minutes in the basement (on the ground) with a steam pressure washer wand knocking out 1/2 inch of grease buildup all over everything down under. I bet that RV lost 100lbs. Mud daubers nests, hornets nests, spider webs, dirt, oil and gawd knows what else Well worth the effort, looks 100% better today, I can even read signs, ID plates, and stickers again. has an "Onan 4.0 BFA" 4kv generator under there (starter relay needs replaced, or it's froze), also a propane tank, water tank, sewage tank and 2 thirty-sum-gallon gasoline tanks ...SO I guess It's really a tank?? somebody bought a lot of options with it I think. I'll say 97% of it all works, I have a couple issues, and my refrigerator is one of them, it's one of those gas or electric one's (No "Auto" on switch, just "gas" or "elec").... when first plugged into 30 amp@ my houses breaker box, could have swore the fridge light worked when I opened at first, I thought that the freezer part was starting to cool, but not the bottom yet...I may be hasty on that thought. But now I have nothing @ the fridge. I'm great with troubleshooting, but I have to see the layout, never messed with RV's so finding locations for things right now is the mission. Letting ya know now my friend, I may be bugging ya with inane questions, SO thanks in advance ;) Already at your Manuals site.... fookin Genius right there now ~PeaasOut PS: Still have know idea what motor is in this, I'm leaning towards a 440, I do know it's all Chrylser under there (theres a Model plate), and I may have to replace the transmissions pan gasket, and still no idea what transmission they put in it either. I'll figure it out....All in due time... Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!

[@bradjenkins3146]

Excellent video ! I mark the connectors and take a picture of the connectors/board before disconnecting anything in case I forget how it was hooked up, or if I have to delay reassembling it for some reason. I work in electronics too and appreciate the details. Thanks again !

[@richardfowler3254]

Man I learn a lot from every one of your videos. I want to say "THANKS" for taking the time to teach me and others how to diagnose and figure out what could be the problem.

[@keithpierce7942]

Thank you so much for posting this video. I followed everything you said, so I thought. I pulled off the cover and checked the fuse. Fuse is good. I started following wires to see if something was disconnected. There was the culprit- it was not plugged in. Ok so I missed one of the first steps. Thanks again!

[@Protek1]

Great video! One suggestion, use the system neutral, rather than ground, for testing, it's the return for the system, not ground. You can have an open neutral and still read 120 volts to ground.

[@n4vad3983]

Thanks for your videos of instruction. Had that same problem. Ordered the heating element and installed it. Works flawlessly now.. Greatly appreciated. Saved me alot of money...

[@jasonmccutcheon820]

Very helpful video that helped me to fix my cooling problem. Curiously, I only have 106 vAC coming from the outlet and into the panel and only 100 of the stated 420 watts going to the heating elements. The supply outlet in my garage measures 116 volts. I have no idea where the missing volts & watts are hiding.

[@rickyparker2568]

This video along with a few of your others taught me how to troubleshoot my issue. I wanted to thank you for the needed help. My refrigerator was running on LP gas only. Your video showed me how to trace the power and it turned out to be a fuse on the board.

[@carlhartman83]

Darren thanks for all your help, and great guidance that you give us on our RVs. Please keep up with the good work, it is very much appreciated

[@stevenmorris5562]

Thanks. This is just what I needed. I don't know why it took me so long to find this one. I watch one of your other RV fridge videos. My only problem is that I don't know which model fridge I have. The label inside in the food compartment is warn off. I didn't see anything on the back side that has model identifier.

[@goat1941]

Thorough video abs easy to follow. I employed all your tests and found no power output from board. However before replacing the $100+ lower/outside board I bought the upper/inside board and boom; problem resolved for under $30. Just wanted to comment since it wasn’t mentioned in your video and I read online lots of people replace lower board and it doesn’t resolve issue.

[@Buzzxj900]

Can you give any info as to where that board is? I just replaced this one and still have the same issue you had with no power leaving the board.

[@peterborn173]

Hi Darren checked all ur diagnostics as per ur video not working on AC but OK on LPG, great stuff...all my tests gave me ur results but still not working on AC. ps was working fine last week lol....I have it set on auto & have power ect. what am I still miising??

[@damienwilson3862]

Love the video. Thanks for taking the time. Excellent explanation of the diagnostic steps. I will now go and tackle my own malfunctioning fridge.

[@bryanl6300]

Fantastic video. I have been trying to figure out how to fix my RM2611 Dometic unit. Now thanks to you, I have something to look for. BTW, looked on your website and did not find my manual. Bummer, but I will keep looking for one in line. Thanks again!!!!

[@altonbell446]

He is doing well on his description and use of the VOM, I am being picky but the control board has to have 12 v DC to operate either on AC or LP , the board has a 12 v fuse as well and your first thing to check is the 12 V. My experience as an electrician led me to find the 12 v wires were broken just under the wheel well. The owner replaced the lower control and was going to replace the fridge. Quick check of the fuse and turns out the fuse also is hooked to a light where it was burnt off under the light probably from a loose wire nut. Either the light was added or the wiring crew did this original. Good video but to a DIY you could get the feeling the 120v AC is enough to trouble shoot.

[@ronnieling133]

You saved hunting camp. Bad heating element played hell finding the right one got one on order thanks for your help

[@johnfinley4786]

Great video. Mine will blow the fuse even with the heating element disconnected. Do you have a video for checking the board?

[@G_RAThbun]

Your video was very helpful. I have no 120 coming out towards my igniter I think that's what you called it on the electricity side of the board. So I'm assuming I need a new motherboard or whatever you call that thing. Refuses are good I followed all the instructions you gave I've got 120 each side of the fuse on the board. Like I said nothing going to the electrode that boils the juices to get my refrigerator flowing. What's my next step what do I go you said you had some more videos on that how to change the motherboard

[@G_RAThbun]

Will I swap the motherboard out And it's still not working.

[@wayback1000]

Thank you so much for putting this video up. Now I know what to check and more importantly how to check. Invaluable information!!

[@kukbrikio12345]

You are the man. Mahalo for your very informative trouble shooting steps to take. Very customer friendly KZbin Video. My RV is rather OLD 1993 and I try to tackle troubles DIY.

[@loujearls5497]

Loved the step-by-step process ... not too technical ... good job.

[@waynewemken596]

Great video!! My Norcold 1200 LRIM in my 2004 Monoco Holiday Rambler Neptune is only cooling on LP, and gives me the no ac fault code. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll get time to buzz the two heaters and see if that’s where my problem lies. At first glance, the heaters appear to enter the boiler to high for me to change them from outside like I saw you do on a dometic on another video. Do you run into instances like that where you might have to pull the frig, and change the heaters from inside? Please tell me no. 😳😲😂 Thank you!!

[@BruceBarnes-k9n]

Thanks for the lessons. Almost brand new Dometic refrigerator had the lower board out per your diagnostic instruction. Replaced it and it works great!! Thank you😊

[@allennolden8735]

I have a Dometic that runs great on the heat element with shore power. However, recently when I switched to the inverter, it was acting like its shorting. It will pop the GFCI in line. When you turn the refer back to gas it stops. I didn't find any shorts when I tested the power cable with a meter. It has ran just fine off this inverter for 4 years. Then, everything else running off the inverter has no issues. I'm all open for testing suggestions.

[@ninjaryder1st]

This is a great video as I have exactly this problem. After several hours of shore power, no cooling. CHanged to propane with cooling in a few hours. Other vids were not this detailed, or stopped short of explaining the heating element, checking its resistance for 80 ohms +/- 10%, and the board that should be 120 V at the prongs where the heating element plugs on. I appear to have to issues: 1) my board does not supply 120 V to the pins that feed the heating element wires and 2) my heating element wires have 8 ohms of resistance rather than 72-88 as indicated in the manual. Looks like I might be in for a new board and heating element. Do you have any videos for replacing each?

[@petehoward8494]

Darren, great video and troubleshooting. Any chance you have done a video on the other failure mode? (works on electric but not propane)? I have checked all the basics, have 12 VDC, have a nice blue flame front with no startup issues, blown out rust from the flue and burner tube, but still have weak cooling on propane. You do great work on KZbin, please keep it up!

[@GMurfmania]

These videos have been extremely helpful to me. I have learned quite a bit about my RV fridge as a result. I think I have successfully diagnosed my fridge issue (heating element) but I won't know for sure until the part arrives...

[@GMurfmania]

Replacing the heating element fixed the refrigerator. It took about 30 minutes from start to finish. It was very straight forward...of course that was after watching Darren's video.

[@MyRVWorks]

Hi Guys, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team

[@jaybickford512]

Great video! Thanks! I'll be digging into my RV refrigerator this evening, and I'm sure this tutorial on what to look for will be very helpful.

[@MrRican82]

Great in depth video!!! Thank you!!! I thought it was the mother board because I'm not getting 120v from the other side of the mother board.. Thank you I'll let you know in 2 weeks if that was the issue 😉

[@daniastry8088]

Agian thank you so much for your videos you explain everything in detail and it helps so much I'm a first time rv owner and we live full time in our coachman and we are blue collar so it helps so much to know how to try and fix what we can. Thank you.

[@pelipapa]

Great video, thank you for posting it. I took the cover off of the panel. The blue wire is not connected to anything, I assume that is the reason my fridge only runs on gas currently. Where does the blue wire connect to ? Mine just have some black plastic on it, it appears it could have been accidentally pulled off of wherever it was on. Tyia

[@MyRVWorks]

The blue wire is not used in the field. It was used when the board was programmed at the factory. The black heat shrink is to cap it off.

[@pelipapa]

@MyRVWorks thank you for the swift response. I guess when I get back to the mountain I will test as u described 👍

[@JimToler]

Outstanding video…and have a follow-up question on my results…Got a RM 7742 dometic refrigerator . ..like the video…The fridge works great with gas, but not Plugged in. followed your trouble shooting steps and all was good (fuses, ground, 120v output from board to heating element) except the ohms on the two heating elements are at 35 (couldn’t test them independently), and the book says they should read 69 each. I’m not sure if i can make the next step of doubling my ohms reading to 70, since I have two elements…and it test as good (69ohms each) is logical … or am I missing the obvious. Any ohms expertise would be appreciated…

[@earltenpenny4339]

I am not a the leave a comment kind at all up to this point. this will be the first. Ever! Your video is a life saver, you put out great information. thank you

[@toivotorvinen]

Thanks much, this project is on my list this spring. It would be great if we were in closer proximity, I'd just drop it off,

[@kyle6100]

Hay Darren I have a quick question. On the top right side of the control panel where the yellow, white and blue wires. Where does the blue wire go to? Mines just coming out of the that top right and I can’t figure out where the blue wire goes too. Thanks for any feedback.

[@MyRVWorks]

That blue wire is only used for testing at the factory when the board is programmed. After that it serves no purpose.

[@timcarlisle9598]

Used your trouble shooting on my fridge.got a new board.works fine now.thanks from Indiana

[@troy9616]

First off, like the videos. Having issues with Dometic 2351, where the freezer is performing well, but the fridge is not cooling..

[@rangerrhett8341]

eallygreat video.. I have similar model...... older than dirt and you have already giving a good path to start on. thank you

[@peterravensbergen8031]

great video, can you send me a link to the video on how to see If it's the upper or lower control board as of right now I have no power to my heating element pins

[@chrismagliano7946]

Hey, did you ever make the video on the upper control board?

[@ryandementmorford2322]

Thank you for doing these videos! I am new to this. My 5th wheel is still under warranty but I'm out of town and needed a quick fix.

[@joewynn2445]

Thank you for this video. My fridge will run on propane but when I try putting it on ac shore power and it blows the glass fuse. I have 130 at the fuse then when it kicks on it jumps up to 140 and blows the glass fuse everytime. So your saying its a bad relay? Or the whole circuit board is bad? I know you made this video a long time but if you could answer this I'd greatly appreciate it. Or if someone could answer this id greatly appreciate it.

[@kaywhyjelIy]

Thanks for the video. For the fridge I fixed, the fuse connections were corroded and when I unseated it and reseated it started to work again.

[@pwammann1]

very good technical diagnostics

[@davidsauerwrx7460]

Thank you Darrel, I'm just starting to learn how to fix my Norcold frig and this was a great help! Keep up the good work! Dave WRVX

[@camerondye9420]

Could you please send me a link to change the heating element this vidio was a ton of help thank you

[@bradvickery1076]

I like your presentations, Thank you! I may have an intermittent issue because it works on AC then it doesn't. I have a new element but haven't put it in because all the sudden it stopped working. I disconnected all AC & DC and let it sit for an hour for a factory reset. I reconnected and low and behold its on. Propane or AC it hits 34 degrees. I recently did install an extra fan in the chimney and one on the interior box that attaches to the fins with alligator clips. Are the alligator clips causing any interference???

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Helping a friend with his Norcold 6162 single door auto control gas/electric. Turned out it was the 15amp fuse. Looking at it looked ok but with the continuity check it failed. I think its cooling now but I told him to put some water in an ice tray to see if it freezes up tonight and the box for food gets down to around 40. He got a new board but didn't install it yet

[@mariocavazos5169]

Great video. I was trying to find the video on how to diagnose between the lower and upper control board. Did you ever make the video. I could not find it in your videos. If so could you send me a link please. Thank you.

[@daves1715]

Hey Darren Thank you for your technical knowledge my RV refrigerator now works on both electric and propane as well. Quick note my wiring diagram on the recall panel and on another label mentions 12volt too. Does this mean it will work on my house battery’s.

[@daniastry8088]

Will u still get the reading of 120 off the pins of where the element wires plug if the fuse is blown?

[@AmericanMade1987]

Thanks for this! Was a little confusing at first, but I learned that I was only get 4v to the element wires. Obviously had to be 120v. Got a new Dinosaur Electronics board in & electric works on the fridge again! Thank you 👍🏻

[@GaryTitus-g1y]

Great video! My dometic Dm2652 fridge blows the 5 amp fuse as soon as it calls for power. It does cool on propane. The heating element has 43.5 ohms of resistance. In your opinion could it be a faulty circuit board? Appreciate any insights!

[@josenajera6151]

Very helpful video, thank you! I recently bought a RV which needs a little bit of tlc, this videos will come in handy!

[@mikecollins1631]

Great video on diagnostics. I'm looking to see if you did one on a Norcold but I got the basics from this which I'm guessing applies to all or most RV fridges. Our's worked fine on both AC & LP until we put it in storage for 3 weeks. After that the AC mode didn't work. Luckily the LP mode is.

[@MyRVWorks]

Enough similarities between the theory of operation. More on my refrigerator play list here: kzbin.info/aero/PLk44vSl27TRBtE1CmMkPb02ayS5H1sKbB If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks

[@larryturner8722]

Darren, I have watched some of your videos on you tube and I am impressed with your ability to get your message across in an understandable way. I will be looking into your website. Thank you for your presentations. I do have one question for you. Why would the control board have a 5 amp 32 volt fuse as opposed to 5 amp 250 volt fuse when it has 120 volts going into the fuse? Mine has a 5 amp 32 volt that has been working but the electric side has stopped, and I have a blown fuse. Since this is an old Norcold 1200, I'm not sure if the right fuse was being used. Thank in advance for your response.

[@scottmackeil5852]

hello darren Ive been looking at your videos but im stumped i hve a 2020 dometic DM2872LBFX im going camping tomm and turned on refrig today to get cold on ac power freezer comes on and works fine on auto frig not cooling though went to gas and looks like dropping maybe alittle i have lights on inside frig but fins are barely cool

[@KevinCoop1]

Darren, Thanks for this video. I quickly determined that the electric heating element is the issue with OL ohms on the element. This frig. Is a Dometic DM2652 and utilizes a 325 watt heater. The element is inside a split sheet metal tube with a sheet metal cover around the heater and inside the tube. In order to get the element out, the split tube needs to be opened below and above the hole. Can this be done from the outside or does the refrigerator need to be pulled out?

[@robertoleksy1191]

Great video. I have this issue. I have AC power to the board, but it only runs and cools on LP. I don't know what the ohms is suppose to be, but it's in the 40s when I check it. I swapped out the control board, still no AC cooling. Its a norcold 611V. It only has an on/off switch and says "Automatic" on the front of the fridge. Any help??

[@chuckwiggy3391]

I greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and tips with us. You save us a fortune.

[@globetrotter6219]

I have a Dometic 2662 and followed your diagnostic tips, and seems like the heating element is not getting 120v delivered through the control board and no lights are illuminated on the fridge so I suspect a bad CB. Does this mean it will not work on propane also ? Thx for the great video

[@MyRVWorks]

The lower control board is fed by 12 volts dc. There is a fuse inside of that control board. So verify 12 volts is making it into the board and through that fuse.

[@globetrotter6219]

@@MyRVWorks I forgot to mention earlier that both fuses are good and I verified that 120v is making it to both fuses

[@rondunlap510]

Thanks for producing a concise explanation of how to diagnose my rv refrigerator problem. One question, does it make any difference in the diagnostic process when the power source is a generator/ inverter rather than "shore power"? I suspect a failed controller board however I am unsure if the generator delivering 60v on neutral and ground and 60v on load and ground changes any of the diagnostics.

[@lancealot3867]

Makes no difference. Your refrigerator doesn’t know where the power comes from. It either has power or it doesn’t.

[@tonyr3576]

Love your videos! Your detailed explanations are extremely helpful. My 4 year old Dometic RM1350SL was working perfectly staying between 34-40 degrees F (depending on outside temps) for the first 2 wks of our summer trip. Suddenly the other day, the fridge started warming up even though the operation seemed normal (heat source on, 4 fans working, cycling on-off as usual, etc.). By the end of the day, it was up to 60 degrees in fridge and 45 in freezer. I reset it several times. Changed it to LP. Checked power to all components. RV is level. No smell or yellow leaks. Everything seems to be as it should, but it is actively warming up the freezer and fridge instead of cooling them. Called Dometic and they said I probably need a new cooling unit. Question: How could a 4 year old fridge go from working exceptionally well to needing a cooling unit in 1 day? Is there something else I could try first before spending $2500 on a new colling unit? We are currently in MA where the weather only gets up to 80 degrees and the fridge is in the shade all day. Any advice would be appreciated.

[@zcarfanatic]

Wow! Outstanding video... clear, logical and articulate. Subscribing. Oh and I have meter envy.. Haven't picked up a current sensing meter.... yet.

[@bubbablue1100]

With the exception of that reset switch, all of that looked exactly like mine. Could the reset switch be elsewhere? I can't find one. It's also a royal.

[@mikeshriver5315]

Absolutely the best videos on U-Tube...

[@fordracer1415]

Thanks for a great video. I now know what to look for. PS I live in graham and go to sequim about once a month so I know where I’ll be going if I have problems over my head. Thanks

[@alexanderkalesnikoff8566]

Hi! Darren, greast videos. I have a RM7832 fridge with 210 W heating elements (2) How do I check the ohms on each one of those elements? Please reply.

[@pearsonulrich941]

Did you make a video on how to diagnose between the lower and upper control board?

[@sjoseph1255]

Really great video and channel. Must have for active RV’ers. When will the upper control video be posted? I’m struggling with my debug.

[@MyRVWorks]

I'm planning on more refrigerator videos since the ones I have uploaded have been so popular. I do plan on making one on a full LP operation, walkthrough and breakdown. Also the eyebrow board diagnosis. Keep watching.

[@barbararobertson1454]

I’ve run all the tests and everything checks out. How hot (degrees) should the boiler read while operating on 120v? I’m stuck! Propane works perfectly and does a much better of keeping the fridge cool. But on AC it struggles. Ideas?

[@joshuabrooks1123]

Video is awesome. Followed the steps and my board isn't sending out power to the heating element. My fridge in rv has the number 3313596.000 for desc item. Model is cu626e. What control board would replace that. Thanks for your videos.

[@jamieforrend5018]

Do I need the inline therm fuse? The refrigerator run on gas just fine but when plugged into 110 Shore power it trips the breaker on the supply. So if I unplug the Dometic refrigerator I still have TV and everything else works properly . I do see I don't have a inline fuse located on one of the two red wires. Newbie Rver J.

[@bigbigby4657]

I've checked DC and it's good at 13.6 volts at all DC power points. I've got 66 volts running in at black hot and 55 volts running in at neutral white. At glass fuse that had blown so I replaced, it is at 66 on both sides of fuse now and 66 at both heater element tabs.... Does this likely mean a bad control board? All power running through it but not at 120 only at 66 volts. It's like control board has burnt somewhere on the 55 volts white neutral input.?.? It's going in at input tab but not going through the fuse and on to element. Thanks in advance if you'd answer.🙂

[@chuckcurtice7752]

Sounds like a short. Check your wires and their connection points. Make sure they are not touching anywhere they shouldn't be. Make sure they are still in good shape. If you have moved wires around already trying to fix things, make sure that they are all correctly connected. Positive to positive and neg to neg. This happened to me once, and I had mixed up my connections on my fans.i kept blowing the 5 amp fuse. Hope that helps

[@kailonfreeman2143]

Hey darin what would you suggest causes the fuse to blow ? My suspect would be the heating element but that would show up in the ohms test maybe ? There is a backstory lol

[@DustinHowell1976]

Great video. Do you have one that covers a fridge situation where the freezer is cold but the fridge isn't?

[@thomasbriansavingmoney]

fantastic explanation !! ty well said

[@BruceDowds]

Hi Darren. This was a great video. I did all the tricks in the video. My FW Dometic RM1350 fridge is only a year old. Everything works on LP, but when I switch to A/C it will work for only 10 min and then shuts off and then it will come on at some point, and shuts off again before reaching the set temperaturer. Hence on a cool down, have to use LP and once cool down I switch to AC which operates intermently (like 10 min at a time). It is almost like it turns on on AC and by 10 min it overheats? and trips something. But the all fuses, heating element are good (checked the ohms) . I did not check for 120v at the heating cable connection on the board. Any idea? Is an indication of a bad control board?

[@RoamingRazorbacks]

I have an RM1350 and have this exact same problem. Works on LP for days and days with no issue. Any resolution on this? I even replaced the heating element and have the same behavior. Ohms are fine and pulls the proper amps when it activates..

[@stefan3832ify]

Great and awesome video. I have the same refrigerator 3862 and same problem. Followed step by step instructions My heating element is good, So I wondering about the video to determine from the lower or upper circuit board ? Again Thanks for the videos

[@MyRVWorks]

I have two additional resources for you: First is this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4XCZnt9mpmkY80 You can jump to 35:45 where I discuss control board troubleshooting. Second resource is on my Website Resources page: myrvworks.com/manuals/ Filter for refrigerator/Dometic and search for this file: "Dometic Refrigerator Training" That was a PowerPoint I saved as a PDF. On page/slide 62 & 67 there is more info on troubleshooting the wire harness and upper lower boards.

[@arturgrabczewski3816]

I have an issue with my 3 way Dometic fridge (from 2013). We had a gas person today (who specializes in this type of equipment) but he could not find the source of the problem. Basically we can smell gas in our motorhome but only when the fridge is ON. When the gas hob or oven are in operation (while the fridge is turned off) we don't have the smell of gas. The flame from the gas hob is good and the technician said he was pretty sure there is no leak in any pipes. Some help would be greatly appreciated. We have run out of ideas and solutions.

[@dashers11]

We were able to replace the heating element thanks to you, but that wasnt it. Need the video that explains weather it is the upper or lower circuit board link. THANK YOU!!!!!

[@deanmarscella4472]

😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢

[@soulreed]

You got a good thing going. Keep it up and will pay off!

[@2cqql1]

He's doing pretty good, thank you!

[@karenk469]

My issue is that it runs on electric but will randomly quit. I can turn it off and on and it will work again but I never know when it will go out again. I checked the fuse in the back, it was good but I put in a new one anyway. I also cleaned out the back really well. Inside the lights both glow the yellow so I don't always catch it right away. Last 5th wheel had a red light if it went out (nice). I've been just making sure I also have the gas on and value open to keep it going but since I like to keep the frig on all summer even when we're not using it it is very using too much lp gas to do this.

[@pattyshobbyworld2851]

Great demontration...question....do I need to have house battery on while I'm plugged into surpower? And which is best gas or electric ...thank you

[@ellenegnor7890]

Want to know if battery has to be connected to use electric on fridge

[@LamVienLV]

Great video for trouble shooting electrical of the RV refrigerator. Thumb up! Thanks Darren.

[@DDadJokes]

I am looking for the video for the upper control board troubleshooting. Can't find it. My frig (dometic rm2611) works on lp. I have checked heating element, has 120v, 295w, and runs at 2.4 amps for 28 seconds and the trips the GFCI breaker. This is very repeatable. I already replaced the main control board. I have 120v on both sides of glass fuse. Any other helpful information? I have enjoyed your vids and tell others with rvs about you. thank you.

[@JJ-se5cn]

Thanks for a very good video. Helped me with making sure I was testing the correct leads, etc.

[@jffgoulet]

AWSOME! BIG THANKS FROM ARIZONA