Turbo solenoid replacement (Shown on Mitsubishi L200)

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[@nicholasrandall1574]

Hi Nath, I feel for you , Iv owned my L200 since 2003 when I bought it new. At 460,000 km I encountered the same problem you have now , the only difference was that my truck would go into limp mode, I would have to pull over and switch it off for about 30 seconds then everything would be ok for a while . It got so bad that I decided to swap out the turbo for a reconditioned unit , did it solve the problem, NO. Certainly had more power but the limp mode problem carried on .I then changed all the small vacuum tubes, still no luck. I then replaced the two valves you just did, I bought them on ebay, BIG MISTAKE. That just made the problem worse. I then ordered 2 original valves from the UK, Bingo! It solved the problem. I also learnt from the internet how to test those valves with a 9volt battery and a vacuum pump and found that the cheap ones from ebay were faulty. One other thing , when I put the good valves on I still encountered the problem once in a while for a couple of weeks untill it went away . I think these valves stick at times coursing the fault. Thats my experience, I hope something here might help. Greetings from Valencia.

[@DrivenMadShow]

Interesting you say that, it’s been a few days and I can definitely feel a performance increase since changing the solenoid. I’m going to replace all the boost sensors as I have them. I might have to get a Mitsubishi solenoid like you say as they probably are better. I appreciate the comment and I will be posting more on my troubleshooting 👍

[@MarceloInsabralde]

Only Original solenoid solve the problem, but the lifetime him can extended using a better air filter in solenoid. Another solution is Toyota Hilux solenoid, here in Brazil we using because is very difficult find original Mitsubishi solenoid and we when find It, its very expensive. Here L200 K74T is called L200 Sport or L200 Outdoor in versions GL or GLS (121hp) and HPE (141hp)

[@DrivenMadShow]

Great tip, thank you

[@bearnecessiteespolio5359]

Have you ever looked at the two bolts that control the turbo actuator? If not, I'll look out a picture of how far they should be screwed in/set. Im not saying that will fix your overboost, but its 100% worth checking they are correct

[@DrivenMadShow]

Hi there, I will have a look! Thank you for the comment 👍

[@andyfalconer3508]

@DrivenMadShow Don't be tempted to tweak actuator rod length immediately as this is often tricky to get right. Of course this assumes a previous owner/mechanic hasn't already been tinkering.

[@DrivenMadShow]

@@andyfalconer3508 I will try everything before I go near the actuator adjustment. Thanks for the good comments 👍

[@andyfalconer3508]

Often overboost can be symptomatic of stuck or sticking turbo vanes - not sure what system is on the L200. You can test this with a vacuum gauge pump like a mityvac As you mentioned, look at the condition of boost pipes, but also the small vacuum lines.

[@DrivenMadShow]

Interesting, I hadn’t actually thought of the turbo itself being the issue! I will investigate. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@andyfalconer3508]

@DrivenMadShow If it is stuck vanes, often actuating with a pump will free them up, but I've seen these cleaned in-situ with Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner.

[@stefanobio7045]

Hi Nath....... Check all the rubber pipes very carefully for any splits, damage etc, and the induction pipe. If the turbo is over boosting then that would point to the waste gate not opening? Are there any sensors that could be faulty? Check the turbo unit itself, this will require you to remove the turbo from the engine first. Clean both the exhaust turbine and turbo, make sure the vanes all move freely, the problem with turbos is they become heavily contaminated with carbon deposits which prevent the vanes from operating causing the over boost problem. Examine all the turbo parts very carefully for any damage. There should be no play in the bearings, check the seals, clean all the parts thoroughly removing all the carbon. You may be able to purchase a turbo overhaul kit from Mitsubishi? It could also be your DPF is blocked, so i would suggest that is cleaned of all carbon deposits whilst the turbo has been removed from the engine. My apologies but i can only give you general advice as i have not previously worked on this engine. Good luck Take care Best regards, Stefano

[@DrivenMadShow]

Hi stefano, thank you for your in depth comment. I’m currently replacing the 2 boost pressure sensors and methodically replacing all of the vacuum lines with new and studying them all. This will all be next weeks video. If that doesn’t work then I will head towards the turbo. I have already replaced the waste gate and it is moving freely. I will be keeping you updated on how it goes. Yet again thanks for the comment. 👍

[@stefanobio7045]

@@DrivenMadShow Hi Nath...... Work methodically through everything and you will find the problem. Good luck and I look forward to watching the forthcoming videos. Take care and stay safe please. My best regards to you and Jon. Stefano

[@RalphLauren449]

Have you checked the boost pressure sensor? Just a thought. Good luck mate 😀

[@DrivenMadShow]

Funny you ask that as it’s my next job! Will be up next week. Thanks for the comment!

[@OldPortsmouth]

Can I get one of those drivemad tops - does it come with a guarantee I will look as buff 🎉

[@vvitecki]

I had the same problem - I replaced it with an original one - the manufacturer gives about 150,000 kilometers of warranty, so in K74 it's not a question of whether they will break, but when - I see a new intercooler - is it a custom order or maybe a replacement?

[@bearnecessiteespolio5359]

You replaced the turbo? Where did you buy it? Does it come with a new turbo actuator? Was your overboost causing limp mode?

[@DrivenMadShow]

It’s a new aluminium intercooler, I changed it as I thought it looked better, but most importantly cools better. Got it on eBay. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@vvitecki]

I had a problem with the turbo - there was a flap inside that was already worn out, so I rebuilt it and it's fine@@bearnecessiteespolio5359

[@raqueljcosta]

😍👍

[@mindthegap1198]

Do you still have your photos Had some repairs and got some vacuum issues think the pipes are incorrect positioned

[@DrivenMadShow]

We re did it - kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6azpGCgZtiniKM - this one shows you much better (I hope) if not, let me know

[@alfcsm101]

Hiya I've got a mitsubishi L200 k74 06 plate with an AC problem, there is no power to the ac pump have you a video or any advice on what to check to find the problem many thanks Alf

[@DrivenMadShow]

Sorry, experts we are not - on a forum I found this (Facebook L200 owners is a good place to ask) Check the AC Fuse and Relay: Locate the fuse box, which is usually found in the engine compartment or under the dashboard. Identify the AC fuse and relay by referring to the fuse box diagram. Check if the AC fuse is blown and replace it if necessary. Test the AC relay by swapping it with a similar relay in the fuse box to see if the AC pump gets power. Inspect the AC Pump Clutch: Ensure the AC pump clutch is engaging when the AC is turned on. If the clutch doesn't engage, it could be due to a faulty clutch coil or insufficient power reaching the clutch. Check for Refrigerant Levels: Low refrigerant levels can prevent the AC system from turning on to protect the pump. Use a gauge to check refrigerant levels and refill if necessary. Test the AC Pressure Switch: The AC pressure switch can prevent the pump from receiving power if it detects incorrect pressure levels. Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the switch and replace it if it's faulty. Examine Wiring and Connections: Inspect the wiring harness and connections leading to the AC pump for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Repair or replace any damaged wiring.

[@alfcsm101]

@@DrivenMadShow cheers for the info certainly gives me a heads up on what to look for, I've managed to fix turbo, lack of power after watching your video cheers fellas keep up the good work 👍

[@LavatudoPortugal]

Hi all , I have a 2002 l200 with code 52 12 and now 43, watched your vids and changes 52 and 12 sensors but 43 now showing along with 52 and 12 so I’m really confused looking for suggestions for the 43 code

[@DrivenMadShow]

Sorry, ours is to old for codes

[@arranali765]

Hello, Has anyone got the part number for this part?

[@DrivenMadShow]

MR577099 is the OEM number :)

[@Igbon5]

Hey guys, I was thinking of you recently when I decided I might change the injectors on my ML 270. I know it's off topic now but did you change any and was it difficult and are there any computer coding issues? Whatever happened to yours?

[@DrivenMadShow]

Hi there! Yes we did change all 5 in our merc. Luckily for us they weren’t seized or stuck but the best tip I have is every morning/evening for a few days or week, spray around them with penetrating fluid and continue to use the car. As it heats up and cools down hopefully some of the penetrating fluid can work its magic. Then it’s wiggle and tap to remove them, I’ve seen cases of the 5th injector being stubborn so be careful and patient with it. Also disconnect the battery before you start unplugging bits then you shouldn’t have any electrical issues. That’s all I can recommend. Best of luck from us 👍

[@Igbon5]

@@DrivenMadShow Thanks, that seems like a very good tip. Did it make a difference?

[@DrivenMadShow]

Not really :) to be honest

[@Igbon5]

@@DrivenMadShow Hmm, mine's stalling at the drop of a hat under load and I am running out of things to change. It had the injectors changed once before to allegedly fix that problem. I don't really see how,. It runs pretty good otherwise. I still might try if I can get a set cheap enough. Thanks.

[@DrivenMadShow]

Sounds more like fuel starvation - but expert I am not ! - the obvious and cheap area is the fuel filter ? thats been done and replaced ? possibly try a fuel additive to clean the system - then it might be worth checking the pump - should not be the low pressure one ( as it deals with starting) so could be the high pressure one, your symptoms point at that - they are easily available and an OK job .. when I did mine, all the fuel lines were hardened and every clip broke :( so new fuel lines will almost be inevitable, unless you have a better touch than me ! ( can be cable tied, but Dad would not consider it :) best of luck

[@mathias9931]

hi i have a K74 1998 and my "Weel lock" lamp in my dash wount go out, normaly when you start it up and put it in 4wd it comes on and stays on untill you turn the car off. Its not the rear dif im talking about, ist on a buttom for it self. any advice? :)