Turning, Facing & Threading on the Tormach CNC Lathe! Widget28

I am blown away by the capabilities and ease-of-use with the new Tormach CNC lathe. Absolutely amazed. I had a customer job come in for a bushing with two different thread pitches and a few different OD's. I thought I'd make them on the manual machine but keep one as an example to 'aspire to' when I finally learned enough to make a part like this on the Tormach CNC lathe. On 4140 too!
Well, I had a few hours on Sunday and was BLOWN away at how easy this part was to make. Bottom line: I never made them on the manual machine but rather spent a few minutes (!) and had them programmed and turned on the Tormach CNC lathe! It is incredible how easy the conversational programming is to use!
I'm going to LOVE this machine!
Tormach is hosting an open house at their Wisconsin HQ on Saturday May 2nd - click for details and to RSVP: bit.ly/1wdNH0X
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[@danielfoley2994]

My 15L will be showing up tomorrow, I’m very excited to run a cnc lathe. I am new to cnc and after running my new 1100 and using pathpilot, I’m not overwhelmed learning cnc as I thought I would be. Thanks for sharing, I’m always checking out your videos to help me through my journey! Feeds and speeds helped me a lot on the mill!

[@markkrick8602]

I've been doing amateur turning and milling for years on 40 year old worn out machines and these small machining centers are blowing my mind. I love your enthusiasm, I fully appreciate the sentiment. I enjoy the fiddley nature of chasing threads, but it can be so nerve wracking, especially internal threads... I think you've sold me on this technology, phenomenal! Thanks for making this series of videos

[@jimsanker989]

I grew up on an old W&S turret lathe. So I really appreciate what these lathes can do.

[@GregsGarage]

That machine is awesome. I can see why you get jazzed up about trying new things... It just works!

[@4DModding]

Turning when you have a really good machine is sweet nd very rewarding! I had a crappy lathe for ages but with the machine now it makes life so much easier. Nice job on that conversational job, looking forward to seeing some CAM parts.

[@Bernkoche]

so cool, you can make one dream doing the turning Mr. I am manual, but the cool thing about this is having the thoughts quick and going. you pulled me in.

[@YCM30cnc]

Nice work, looking forward to seeing it up close during your open house. Keep em coming, .....

[@ProtoSimTechnologies]

Get as excited as you want, man! This stuff is awesome! We live in such a fantastic time. Keep up the enthusiasm! It's inspiring ;-)

[@CSSIandAssociate]

John, nice vid. I can only imagine the interesting projects anyone could do with this tool!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi John, Like you say it's amazing to see how easy it is to make complex parts on a CNC lathe, angles, rounded, threading, (internal and external) with exceptional finishes. I've learned the hard manual G code entry and always amazed by the results... Never learned the Cams or any of the Cad programs though... If my little one man shop, being a little younger, have much more floor space and most of it all, having 600 volts 3 phases electrical supply, I'd let your enthusiasm get to me and start shopping for CNC's..... Dreams... If you ever get to the bigger leagues machines, you'll be even more amazed by what it can do. Keep on the great work, Pierre

[@tom7]

That threading is awesome indeed!

[@razorworks9942]

Hey John, First off, want to thank you again for your sticker package you sent me. Secondly, Your new lathe is pretty cool! In the majority of your previous vids, you lose me when you start talking about the programming language, but I watch anyway mostly because of the automation. As I watched this video, I began grasping the procedure and the way you walk through the steps. Very cool man! I don't think I will ever get into automation, but if I get a customer that wants 1000 parts, I know just where to send them!! Take care, Razor!

[@thevs25]

Thank you for these lot of sample video i got a little knowledge about your shared cnc machining milling, turning, cnc lathe...

[@richardmogel2186]

NYC CNC it's nice to see that someone has figured out to make machines easy to use. 90% of younger people getting into this trade don't want to because they don't understand. Everything has always been difficult. Teaching a 17 year old in votech g & m code programming. Takes all the hands on out of machining and turns it into a lot of theory. Great job Tormach Inc.

[@Squat5000]

21 here, and makes sense to me! Plus, I realize the dedication it takes. Sure, I can make a part, fabricate a tool, and fix just about anything (starving college student= no money for new), but I realize how much there is to actually learn. To stop learning is to stop living. :-) And by the way, I would say OVER 90%. Machining is something that people should love if they are going to start, because it is a skill that one will keep on learning (based on family and what I have seen here) if they want to keep up the great work.

[@richardmogel2186]

Cody Smallwood absolutely right you have to love all things metal to get into the trade. Not just the machining but the fabricating and so on.

[@richardmogel2186]

NYC CNC anytime man

[@iiinsaiii]

Wow! That's really nice. Cant make it more easy. Great job

[@TAWPTool]

Great video! Ok, note to self: Not only do I need to buy a Tormach 1100, but NYCCNC has now convinced me to add a Tormach lathe to my order!

[@Cheezzyizill]

I run a Haas CNC lathe at work. I love CNC turning, I get to write my own programs and do everything myself it's just awesome. It's cool to see you enjoy your lathe, It should make you some easy money.

[@Cheezzyizill]

NYC CNC TL2. I work for a tool and die shop so there's always stuff that needs turned.

[@Cheezzyizill]

It's actually a newer one that's enclosed with the QCTP and still has knobs and handles. I like the machine it's very accurate. I can hold a +/-.0002 tolerance on hardened tool steel. I just wish my work would of have gotten a bigger lathe for some of the stuff we do at my shop.

[@Cheezzyizill]

Yes actually. I'll set Z offsets using the handles unless i'm trying to hold a tight depth. I also use the handles for throwing quick 45's on corners and just making chamfers in general with the chamfer mode on the control (It utilizes the handles). I also will use the handles for parting off stuff as well. I know some shops take the handles off to increase rapid speeds but i personally like the handles since I've ran a decent amount of manual lathes.

[@andrewdask]

awesome machine! congrats man!

[@goptools]

Hi John, That machine/software combo is pretty amazing! And I thought threading was going to be difficult. No more watching the threading dial for half-nut engagement! Thanks, -mike

[@SuburbanToolInc]

Thanks for sharing John.

[@knicelydone6384]

Dang it John, you are making me want to spend a lot of money! These videos can't be good for my tool addiction. Oh well we all need a vice. Thank you for sharing. Keep up the good work. See you in March.

[@markparkinson5760]

Hi John Way to go what a machine. Don't under sell yourself. Great work dies what it says on the tin. Tormach goes from strength to strength. They just need a UK distributor now. Thanks for sharing as ever john a pleasure. Regards Mark Over the pond in the UK

[@DavidHotrum52114]

This is incredible. I am 63 Y.O. I started machining in College. None of this was available.

[@redramage]

The little nipple left by the parting tool is a-ok. If that nub was left by a turning tool doing a facing cut, then the tool is off-center and needs to be trammed or shimmed onto centerline. What happens with the parting tool is the tiny nub of material remaining isn't strong enough to hold the part. The part starts to deflect, and just like a bent bar whipping around the rotational motion makes the deflection worse and it quickly breaks off. Usually I'm facing the other side anyway in a 2nd operation, but if not I just file the nub off. Love the video, can't wait for the open house.

[@redramage]

NYC CNC you sure can. I usually am pressing my parting tool into service as an OD groove tool as well so I just roll with a straight one.

[@willywgb]

Hi John Great Video. Your Tormach Lathe is amazing and looks to be very easy to use. I have a PCNC1100 and found the Mach Control Software awkward to use. Specially the Tool Offsets. If the new Mill Path Pilot Software is as easy to use as the Lathe, looks like there is going to be an upgrade coming up. I also better start saving for a 15L. Thanks for taking the time to produce these Videos. Cheers Bill

[@yagransagoth6937]

You. Should put a chamfer with tool 1 before threading and you'll always be left with the pip after part off

[@j.r.3330]

That is so cool!

[@andrewwilson8317]

Got an EMCO CNC lathe, very similar to yours. What amazes me is the speed and accuracy it can maintain. Working repeatedly to 0.001 mm is no problem for it. You could match it on a manual lathe but after a batch of 300 of the same item? Not for me thanks,done that ,and that's why have the EMCO!. I bloody love it!

[@leestyron8475]

One thing about work coming off a lathe. It is usually finished parts. I don't have another machine that actually produces completely finished parts. The mill comes close sometimes, but usually at least a little hand work or tumbling is needed. Great videos BTW.

[@Keith_Ward]

Awesome John, many of us share your same excitement on these sorts of things. As usual I'm weeks behind on seeing this though. Nice front-end on their software for this. Not sure if it was "from scratch" or just a new UI for Mach. Either way, it looks well designed and intuitive. Lathe of course does too.

[@EZ_shop]

Amazing! I want one!

[@karldoppelburger1382]

truely mind blowing, tomahack machine.!!!

[@Liberty4Ever]

Welcome to MY world. No fancy 3D CAD and CAM. Just creating chunks of G code for each operation and appending them to create the entire program. However... that conversational programming environment looks SWEET! It still freaks me out though to see you jumping from the conversational wizard screens back to the familiar LinuxCNC back plot tool path. Ctrl-C to copy and Ctrl-V to paste from Windows also works in Linux, but there is also a mouse buffer as well as the keyboard buffer. Simply highlight the text to copy and that puts it into the mouse buffer. Then middle click where you want it to paste. On a scroll mouse, the middle button is a press on the scroll wheel. On a two button mouse, press both buttons at once for a middle click. If you liked the Ctrl-C/Ctrl-V keyboard buffer in Windows, you're going to LOVE the mouse buffer in Linux. When I'm forced to use Windows, I'm very frustrated not to have this fast cut and paste method. It feels like typing with one hand tied behind my back. Even if I was only making five of those parts, I'd spend the first part creating two programs (1st op, 2nd op) and I'd edit out the phantom tool changes, insert the thread reliefs, etc. And I'd save them with very identifiable names. Then I'd just run them for parts 2 to 5. :-) Not sure about the Tormach version, but LinuxCNC keeps all of the files in the LinuxCNC directory. The machine configuration is in the config folder, and my G code is in another directory. It's the easiest thing in the world to drag the entire directory to a thumb drive to backup the entire machine configuration and all of my G code files. That Tormach lathe is screaming for an automated collet closer and a bar puller. That should be on Tormach's front burner as an accessory.

[@Liberty4Ever]

NYC CNC Not sure you'll still be thanking me for the mouse buffer trick in Linux when you're forced to use Windows and there's blood squirting out the corners of your eyes from frustration over the lack of this very useful feature. :-) Fortunately, I don't use Windows often enough to be frustrated very often. :-)

[@donjones7232]

John, Great video as usual. As others have stated, use the groove/part off to create your thread reliefs. Much easier than going back after it manually. Have you considered interfacing an Arduino and an air actuator to cycle the collet closer so you can run full auto for production runs? Also a bar puller can be your best friend and you could build one easily.

[@theparkerflyguy]

Dude I think you're so hard on yourself. With all your videos you always say about you're not a trained machinist and your still learning etc. I believe your attention detail is far superior to most and your current abilities far surpass most machinists because its easy to see you really love what you do. Your videos are brilliant I don't have a Tormach but would love one! Difficult in the UK though. I've just got my own shop which is a start, and hopefully I'll do some similar videos in metric! Great Work!

[@sharpx777]

yeah, that's awesome

[@deckel515]

Hi , you really should make a spindle nose protector. If you have a crash or little bump against your spindle nose in this situation you can just throw it away.. On the interweb you can find the specs, just make a little alu ring , thats it ! Keep the videos coming !

[@deckel515]

Yes it is , if you want to mount a normal 3 jaw chuck, you want a nice clean undameged surface. If you have nics and dings in that surface you will get runout.. Also when you use it a lot without protector the many many chips that will pass it marking up the surface.. Mount it with a little grease to protect it from surface rust by the coolant. Good luck !

[@eformance]

On a CNC, to get really clean threads, it's a good idea to do 1 spring pass at the end of the threading pass, use the turning tool to top the crests going left and right, to bend the burr back and forth, then chase it one more time. That will get you burr free threads. a) turn thread b) chase thread (spring pass) c) turn thread major from tip to shoulder d) turn thread major from shoulder to tip e) chase thread

[@886014]

John I haven't watched this video as yet, but in an earlier video on the CNC lathe you mentioned mounting a camera inside the cabinet and the difficulties of keeping the screen clear. For both the cabinet window and the camera, I'd check out a DIY version of a clear view screen. They've been used on ships for years. I just had a brainwave to build a smaller version to suit machine cabinets, only to see somebody has beaten me to my thoughts! Bugger! Anyway, Google should reveal all, just a quick spinning glass disk powered by an electric or pneumatic motor

[@ExMachinaEngineering]

Here's a little tip, but it's not exactly best practice. So use at your own discretion. You can set a secondary offset for one of your tools, or put a machined block in one of the toolposts. As the last command of your program, send the tool to a location such that when you unclamp and pull the part out, up until the tool, you're set for op 2. You can also do that for when you flip the part over. I have done, it does work, lots and lots of potential for disaster!!! It could save time, but Be advised! Great vid, btw. And I feel you about the excitement. I guess I'm just as easily pleased. Or it's just freaking awesome :).

[@SirRootes]

+Kostas Froudarakis Yeah, I do this operation at work. We just call it the "bar stop". We machine hydraulic tube and rod with this operation. We just input the G-code manually, it's only about six lines of code. Very easy.

[@TheEgoblitz]

If you want to put that undercut in for the thread, just use the "groove/part" and set the final X to whatever diameter you want. Put a small edge break chamfer (.020 -.030) on the Z positive side of the cut or you will get an ugly finish where the thread ends. The Z start on the first side is -.625 plus the thickness of the parting tool. Second side is -.750 plus the thickness of parting tool. Also, I would do the chamfering before the threading, sometimes on a high pitch count the chamfer will gaff the threads. That little tit that it is leaving on the cutoff is because your using a neutral insert. If you want to eliminate the tit, you need a right angle insert.

[@r3vo830]

He could've also added 3 lines of code to get that undercut.

[@r3vo830]

g0 z(left edge of the undercut), x(diameter workpiece +2) g1 x(inner diameter of the undercut) g1 x(diameter workpiece +2) g0 z(right edge of undercut) g1 x(workpiece diameter) g1 x(inner diameter of undercut), A(45°) assuming that A stands for angle in the programming language g0 x(workpiece diameter +2) g0 x,y,z (tool change position) That should actually work, I hope its understandable, it also adds a little 45° angle, which normally a thread undercut has.

[@TheEgoblitz]

***** Yes, If the control is set to radius: G0 X.905Z-.625; G1 X.435; G0 X.497; G0 Z-.596; G1 X.435Z-.625; G4 P0200; G0 X.905; Will work also.

[@r3vo830]

TheEgoblitz What does G4 stand for? It was some sort of "sleep/hold for x seconds" command at my machine.

[@TheEgoblitz]

***** Yes, G4 calls a dwell. The P word is milliseconds. Probably don't need it too much here but I work in tenths most of the time, so I just do it. Sometimes if your running a fast feed and a machine with fast rapids, if you don't delay, it leaves an egg shaped cut (concentricity = AFU).

[@johnnym1320]

WOW! this is awesome John, you need to make something that can catch the part when you part off.

[@johnnym1320]

? I am calm

[@johnnym1320]

Lol I just meant add a tray below the parting tool

[@thomasyuhas]

"Friggin' awesome" Can't wait for the puppy Vizsla, Rory, to become a women so I can breed her and buy a Tormach lathe from the litter profits! The treading was amazing to watch. I appreciate your dedication to the channel.

[@eformance]

Recommendation on your ops so to prevent wasted motion: Order your ops from shoulder to face. If you started with the last turning op first the G-code would have stepped down to the end of the part instead of turning the end first, then going back to the shoulder. The face first approach is good for long slender parts (greater than 3xD), so in that case you'd do the roughing of the threaded portion first, cut the threads, then stair step up from that, so you have the largest diameter available for supporting the part, that helps improve the precision of the part because the part deflects less.

[@grandjunctionguy]

Awesome thank you! Have you done ID threading with the turret? I just got a id threading tool, and I'm going to cut it in half, because I'm not sure the best way to fit it on there haha. Was wondering if you had any insight

[@gangadhardas3318]

Super fainstatic.... I am From India 🇮🇳.....👍🏽👍🏽❤️

[@ajtrevino3663]

whn you part off dont go down all the way leave about .02 on x then just hit the face with a mallet. this protects your thread from being dinged on the floor when part off throws part. nice machine. you can also make a thread releif with a vnmg with a 32 degree radius.

[@gossalex]

super exciting dude, I think Tormach is on the right track with the new controller for their line and appreciate you sharing the inner workings. have you found a way to switch to a finish tool for your final pass within the same operation?

[@Stephen1455]

Your site is great! I get pretty creative on the manual lathe with multiple 5C collets, emergency collets, and collet stops. Can really cut down the time on manual and cnc?

[@guytech7310]

Small project idea: Make a few Tormach Tool holders for your mill on the Lathe. I presume you can never have too many TTS holders.

[@daque1960]

I bet theY could eventually make the append operation to the file check if the tool is the same as the last one in use and get optionally get rid of the phantom tool changes. And add thing a thread relief will probably end up being just a check box away someday. I hope to see more and of the pathfinder in action including on the mill. It wouldn't surprise. Me if one day Tormach had a mill that did rigid tapping with the new controller.

[@timspychalla]

Hey John, I've been watching a lot of your videos and had a question: do you ever do any manual coding? Keep up the great work!

[@TheHelicommand]

Just a little tip to save time on tool changing, chamfer before threading. Also chamfering after threading can leave a burr if the tips warn, thread releasing at the back can also be done with a finishing tool. IE rough out the part with a knife tool, finish turn, thread, part off.

[@timmarks7252]

You are saying use the threading tool to chamfer the part (which is what I do on a manual lathe with a HSS bit)? That way you can do the two operations (chamfer and thread) with the same tool. Of course, if you are using indexable threading tool, not every threading tool will work for you like that.

[@eformance]

John, it looks like your coolant balls are configured for a RSU (right side up) tool instead of USD, that coolant stream should be configured to spray at the insert. Usually there are galley plugs in the tool block that you can remove with a hex wrench, to place the coolant ball in a different port.

[@BigMjolnir]

John, that is really cool how simple and quick the conversational programming makes some jobs. Probably more jobs than you think. I noticed on the threading screen that there were separate numbers for TPI and thread pitch...does that mean it will do multi-start threads? I didn't see anything about that....no reason it couldn't of course...it has servo control of the spindle to do threading at all. Does it figure out how many starts from comparing pitch to TPI? Might be easier if it just let you put in a "starts" figure with the TPI and calculate the pitch for you. Maybe in version 2? ;-) -- Mike

[@phillipyannone3195]

Very exciting. How small a part will that machine make?

[@chenegabfree7617]

Hey there Great stuff! Question: I just installed the collet closer on our lathe and was wondering, do you get any vibration on the closer handle when spindle is turning? I was able to get runout down to .0005 but still have some wobble / vibration on the closer outside lathe enclosure ( though minimal).

[@chenegabfree7617]

Thanks for the reply. I would agree with you. I spent more time checking runout and all is well with less - little vibration in handle. If you're ever in Connecticut, stop by and see what our students are machining with Tormach at little Hale-Ray HS. Maybe the students could do a short video on what they do..? I'll try to pull it off and send to you. Give kids the resources and whatch what they do. It's amazing..!

[@RJGMWR]

Watching the way the coolant is directed at the tools it looks as if the tools are meant to be turned with the cutting edge up and the lathe spinning in reverse. Just an observation. Nice videos. Makes me want a tormach. Ryan.

[@CncObsession]

He mentions in the beginning that he is waiting for an aiming tool or adapter of some sort. An Arduino controlled nozzle, tool offset focused is in the works behind the scenes ;-)

[@RJGMWR]

NYC CNC I am in the process of moving shop. but I am going to seriously look into it when I am in the new shop. I want a Tormach mill and lathe and cnc plasma.

[@endamurphy5272]

The Tormach Lathe looks great John... I can't wait to see it in action at your Open House. On the coolant... are you planning to switch to flood coolant on the mill now that you have "taken the plunge"?

[@dazmaz4356]

great feeling when you can produce something tangible.

[@RyanWeishalla]

Before too long you'll be machining an american right hand thread on one end and a metric left hand thread on the other. Nice to see somebody getting really excited.

[@carbidelabs6522]

Oh my god... Comments are great John ;)

[@bertr5650]

If you hate it too much i'll T-up Fed EX to deliver to oz ;-) Nice work and damn I'm jealous. I've just spent over an hour on the manual lathe knocking out a batch of simple parts and I have approx 80 to go... Question: Any idea on how it works with ID threads too small for an internal threading tool? Can you kind of 'power' tap with Tormach? Thanks for your time on the Vids. PS. the video editing is looking sharp too.

[@barneymatthews5917]

Woo Buddy!

[@mikekeystonefl]

question: normally I would chamfer the end of the part before threading. Does it make a difference with the CNC lather before or after?

[@DavidRodriguez-ci6dm]

are You guys a dealer? Can this lathe be capable for woodturning projects as well? Thanks

[@davecox900]

John is it possible to drill a 8.5 hole in round stock and rigid tap it 10mm go in 1" does the machine have the power for that,

[@sparksflyingpyro]

The reason for the 3/8 thread wobble is because of the difference in thread pitch. When threading the pitch of the thread is what matters in the offsets if the machine has them. If your # of tpi is moving higher like from 13 to 16 you need to add to the positive and move the insert away from the part by .002 or .003 and if you pitch is moving down move -.002 or -.003

[@danieltweit3702]

awesome

[@Hardcor3crash]

You said something about your tip when you parted off your workpiece. Its not the problem with your tool height. you need a different insert. There are positive negative and neutral inserts. you using a neutral one now. you have to get some with a tip on the left side.. sorry for my bad english greets from germany :)

[@narayanchowdary9079]

what software are u using to programme.. where can we find it and how much does it cost???

[@above7833]

Can I turn 4" diameter steel on this tormach lathe ?Thank you...

[@fataxe1]

will the conversational do pipe threads?

[@adisharr]

I'm with you, I love using my lathe. Much more satisfying than my mill. We're talking all manual mini models - nothing CNC driven ;)

[@johnnycan1990]

Can you do a video of setting up a boring bar?

[@gocoastgaurd721]

How did you get the lathe to rotate the tool with the door open? On ours (at school) we have to close the door before the tool will rotate. Thanks!

[@gocoastgaurd721]

Ok!

[@eformance]

OBTW, it's clear that the conversational portion needs some work. There is no continuity between operations and so each operation causes the spindle to stop and start. I assume you'd have to manually massage the g-code with gedit to get rid of that. Centroid has a different approach where a program is made up of a bunch of steps and the g-code isn't generated until the file is saved. The steps are then saved in an intermediate file that is much more compact than g-code.

[@sparksflyingpyro]

If you put the thread chamfer on before threading it is easier on the threading insert. Will improve insert life.

[@ryebis]

I guess it looks magical for someone new to CNC, Tormach do make decent affordable machines but IMO Haas is better bang for buck.

[@MichaelChismToday]

How much was your lathe delivered with turret? Thanks!

[@MichaelChismToday]

Thanks :)

[@akaicustom]

So did Jules like the parts?

[@TRSERased]

and do a thread relief with the parting tool before you do the thread

[@thomasblackwell6860]

Will this machine handle 3" diameter stock?

[@stanrogers5613]

Yes, but obviously not with 5C collets. It has a D1-4 spindle nose so you can mount an appropriate chuck for your stock and application and a 15" swing (380mm diameter). When using a chuck, though, you need to be careful about setting a max RPM to override the machine's constant surface speed at small diameters. (Solid steel chucks aren't a normal choice for lathes in this price range, and cast-body chucks can't be run at extreme revs. You do not want a sudden unplanned disassembly of a chuck at speed.)

[@devilishs4689]

I would just recommend grooving before you thread, the end of the threads will usually turn out better. I am curious how rigid the lathe is, I am looking at buying one or a Haas TL1. I know the Haas is a better machine but I don't know if I need that much of a machine. Thanks

[@devilishs4689]

NYC CNC Yeah it is double the price quote, just wondering if it is twice the machine. I really think the Tormach will work just fine for me. I have a PNC1100 already and I do like it a lot.

[@timmarks7252]

Devin sinner It is probably 4x the machine.... but the question you gotta ask yourself: do you NEED 4x the machine, and how long will the extra $17k purchase price delay your purchase? Bird in the hand and all that.

[@Foghorn436]

I use a TL-2 at work - 3" bore, heavier machine but rigidity goes down fast once you get away from the chuck. No tool changer all manual changes. (Beep beep beep beep x20 ) The software on it isn't as good as this at least on ours, it does not let you do separate rough and finish numbers or that neat little chamfer on the fly during part off. It does have the manual hand wheels and a manual mode which can be handy for things such as that undercut.. The diagrams and input boxes can be unclear, requiring more brain effort to get what you want. It also isn't as easy to stitch the operations together, the thread data must be entered manually there is no list like here, and there are a lot of unnecessary buttons on the control. Haas is catering to the old school 1 machine 1 control box school of thought... and it isn't great IMO. It's outdated. I like the look of this LinuxCNC based stuff. Easier to adapt and tune to specific needs, not to mention editing code and moving the cursor with PC peripherals is FAR easier (imagine if you will editing g-code using your oven control panel just with different symbols on it obviously). This just makes more sense than a clunky "universal" control panel. And I want to see more! :)

[@daque1960]

I don't see how to reply to a reply using my phone but re: tts holders... That would be a great demo at your upcoming open house. Maybe make em to order while they wait. If your opposed to making money on the free open house let them bring in their own drill rod from Enco etc..

[@daque1960]

NYC CNC Cool. I wish I could make it but its not possible. A holder would be of limited use now that I think about it. If you could use it you could make your own. I'm sure you'll have something nice running at the open house but I would still enjoy a video of you making one on the new lathe. Now for a question. Do you think the lathe could make an ER style TTS holder or would that really require a grinder to get the taper up to snuff? I wonder if they need hardened too. Dang it's too late now to watch your latest video before work now.

[@TRSERased]

with the lathe go .0625 past zero on X to get the tip off

[@fahadnafees9460]

intersting thinking in machin

[@davecox900]

John would it be possible to demo the lathe doing a peck cycle drilling out 8.5mm to 55mm deep and rigid tap out 10mm just 25mm Deep looking at buying the same machine and wanted to make sure it could do it ok, Thanks for your help sorry material just aluminium you pick grade John thanks for your help with this, the is nobody showing the machine rigid tap I have asked this question before but no answer back

[@sparksflyingpyro]

Sorry let me explain more if you thread a 12 thread pitch it could be a 1" thread or a 1 7/8-12 or a 3"-12 all will guage perfect but if you thread a 1"-14 it will wobble likewise is threading a 1-14 if you switch to a 1"-12 the nut will be really tight or tighter to screw onto the thread.

[@Ibedrunkalot]

do your self a fever get a good grooving tool and another threading tool you can do that hole part in one step by grooving the back step to size and revers threading the back thread that way it will be spot on length and concentric . great video after a few mounts that part will be second nature .

[@b3nsb3nz]

If you think external threading is cool, do some internal deep into a part. Still freaks me out when I watch that. I'm a bit surprised how slow your Z is, my converted machine is much faster. Are you running it at full speed?

[@Rosindew]

Most machines do a fictitious tool changes between programs. My machine goes to its max z limit in between programs to avoid hitting my head while tipping (5 axis). Id leave it, Id rather waste 5 seconds compared to crashing lol.

[@Rosindew]

True! If its anything like mine, it would have an M6 T__ code or a G28 Z0.

[@Ibedrunkalot]

one more thing get a right hand parting insert and you wont get the pip on the end where the material breaks

[@Liberty4Ever]

NYC CNC From my limited experience, on some parts, it's difficult to avoid the tit on the part, regardless of the parting tool geometry, spindle speed, etc. You might make a smaller tit on the part. It's much easier to remove the tit from the stock still in the spindle. It's perverse, because the part is where you'd really like to have no tit. If the tit is small enough, the second op can be lightly touching the back of the part to a belt sander.

[@rudyoblimar6278]

please give me a quote on this

[@scotschoor]

Unfortunately, when I go into a shop, there's usually a machine idle. :)

[@rougaddon5103]

An easier way to set tools is to turn on the lathe, and just bearly touch the tool to whatever you’re setting it off of.

[@GlassImpressions]

Another great video! If you want to get rid of that lathe due to so much dislike I can message you my address :p

[@Max_Marz]

Have you ever thought about installing clearpath servo motors on this machine? /watch?v=gz9mZ5fBwUM

[@jarisipilainen3875]

0.1 is too much for facing one side we have 0.05 extra for full part lol. if boss cut material. so cheap

[@TheHelicommand]

No Tim use the same roughing tool to chamfer, with changeable inserts you can't use the threading tool. Just seems pointless doing a tool change to thread then change again to the pre tool that just finishing the dia just to chamfer when the tool was right there.