U S S Enterprise - 1:1000 - Full Build - Polar Lights

This video is a stand-alone quick kit review for the Polar Lights 1 : 1000 scale U.S.S Enterprise model. This video is a compilation and retrospective of the entire build process. It includes never before seen workbench and paint booth footage, suggestions and things to watch out for as well as an epic bridge mulligan. In addition to some new footage, this stand-alone video includes content from the 6 part detailed series found here:
Part 1 - • U.S.S. Enterprise - 1:... - Initial Assembly
Part 2 - • U.S.S. Enterprise - 1:... - Final Assembly
Part 3 - • U.S.S. Enterprise - 1:... - Grid Lines
Part 4 - • U.S.S. Enterprise - 1:... - Tan Arc and Weathering
Part 5 - • U.S.S. Enterprise - 1:... - Decal and Done
Part 6 - • S. S. Botany Bay - Ful... - BONUS - Complete S. S. Botany Bay
Chapters for your convenience:
0:00 Intro
1:37 Initial “Soot” weathering coverage
2:19 Deflector grid ring approach and techniques
3:53 Radial grid line demonstration
5:03 Circular grid line demonstration
6:15 “Green algae” and brown “space rust” weathering discussion and application
10:57 Tan arc application with Tamiya flexible tape
13:20 Lower primary hull rust rings approach
14:42 Lower primary hull “landing gear” panel detailing
16:03 Nacelle discussion and challenges
18:21 Bussard collector and cap paint and finish
28:20 Production bridge error and remediation
34:56 Primary hull front light paint
37:38 Running light painting
38:42 Deflector dish housing ring base painting
41:53 Homing beacon and navigational array painting and detail
45:13 Additional build highlight footage
46:46 Final build photo stream

[@ArcticModeler]

Thanks to SBrundle who left an excellent tip on Part 5 of the detailed build series that might be helpful to anyone planning on building this edition: "Note for those watching this video: Those little half-moon shapes on the sides of the secondary hull are not accurate, and should be sanded off. They did not appear on previous issues of the kit, and only popped up on the “Space Seed” re-release. Very strange." Great catch! They definitely don't exist on the 11 foot original, as can be seen here: media.npr.org/assets/img/2016/06/27/dsc_0015_enl-eb59531e6973199b88ec40c7e28320e9e118a0ac-s1200.webp

[@grantmiller6570]

TOS Enterprise is the best design IMO. Just such a nice, clean, deep space exploration looking design.

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Grant, I share your feelings for the TOS Enterprise! And a lovely ship to look at as well =D Thanks for sharing your opinion and for the sub!! All the best.

[@C.Brown5150]

She is a beautiful ship..

[@brianmontgomery1619]

Excellent job! Looks beautiful! Very well done model and video.

[@edwardvalle4030]

Such a nice build. I'm so not worthy. Yet!

[@ArcticModeler]

Thank you for this Edward! All the best on your model work journey.

[@capnjackgallows3204]

Should be classed as asmr this video is very relaxing plus its trek !! (Additional edit) dude youre work on this model is stunning and the attention to detail is wonderful only a trek fan would go to such lengths i salute you sir

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Captain Jack! Thank you so much for the extra kind words! It really was a labour of love and it means a lot to me when another fan appreciates the attention to detail like that!! Take care.

[@chrish5018]

Thought the same thing.

[@bryanjohnson9884]

I really enjoyed this series. Your model is absolutely stunning. Very well done, indeed.

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Bryan, Thank you very much for letting me know that you enjoyed the series! I'm glad you liked it and appreciate your kind words. Take care.

[@JeffreyStrader]

Excellent model kit except for the incorrectly redesigned Bussard Collectors.

[@edjones5046]

Looks very professional! I bought the (last?) pre-decorated version and the nacelles would not snap on, so I used Tamiya super thin and Bob Smith 2 part epoxy, which I learned about from your channel. Thanks!

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Ed, Is that the 1:350 version that was released last year or was there a 1:1000 release that I missed? The 350 was very beautiful in the promotional photos I saw. How does she look in real life? That is really cool that you were able to make the fix with super thin and Bob's every-reliable 2 part. I hope it went smoothly and looks amazing! And as an added bonus, those nacelles will now be firmly attached for the next 10 billion years or so. =D Thanks for your comment and for sharing your experience!

[@edjones5046]

@@ArcticModeler Hi; 1:1000. Sorry I failed to mention! Apparently the pre decorated 1:1000s are very difficult to find now; I found none on eBay and only one on Amazon which I bought. Appreciate your taking the time to respond to comments.

[@brookestephen]

Really nice work! I guess at that scale you get a lot less nacelle droop! The strength of the smaller plastic parts must easily overcome the smaller weight of the nacelles. The lighting for the star ships was modeled on naval ships, and they threw out the rules and the utility of light placement. Even airplanes must have the red/green/strobe lights arranged just so. They're basically to visually assess the direction of travel of a ship at distance and in the dark, for when you can't see the ship structure. You would think that in space you would need red/green on upper and undersides of a star ship, at their fwd and aft extremities... What do you think?

[@ArcticModeler]

Thank you for your kind and thoughtful comments. You are exactly right that the smaller scale of the model really does lend itself to supporting the nacelles without any stress or strain. I would sure think you are right about space ships and navigational lighting since other spacecraft can be travelling in any direction relative to your 3d vector--which could mean that your underside to them is your left side, or any other side. Of course at faster than light warp speeds any kind of light will not be very helpful, but still valuable at space stations or other space docking facilities! All the best.

[@dominiksilberhorn7058]

Wow, such a nice work, your Enterprise looks awesome 🙂 can you say me, which clear coat do you use at finish? the finish on your model looks perfect😃

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Dominik! Thank you very much for your appreciation and for leaving such a kind comment! The dull coat formula I used was: - MMA-004 Mission Models Flat Clear Coat - 10% MMA-001 Polyurethane Mix Additive - 10% MMA-002 Mission Models Thinner You can see the products on screen at 17 : 14 of the 5th detail video as well. Here is the quick link to that spot if you are interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6jbXoF3qrOel7c All the best =)

[@dominiksilberhorn7058]

@@ArcticModeler great, thank you very much for the info 🙂

[@Spottedfeather]

what did you use for the green and tan weathering ? It sounded like you said chalk.

[@ArcticModeler]

Hello, I used a custom mix of soft chalk pastels found here: www.amazon.ca/Mungyo-Square-Pastel-Assorted-B441R078-7003A/dp/B01HFJJLNU Take care.

[@davidcole4029]

Wonderful build! Very inspiring. I have one question though. How did you make the masks for the bridge dome?

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi David, thank you very much for commenting and for your kind support! The mask for the pilot/mirror universe Enterprise was actually a perfect match for some 6 mm (1/4 inch) organizing sticker dots I had on hand. However, the production bridge dome required a 7mm diameter circle so I purchased a set of circle templates that included that size and then carefully cut it out from some high tack painters tape. Thankfully this ended up working really well. When you say it is inspiring, does that mean you are inspired to build one / finish one as well? If so, I wish you every success and lots of enjoyment doing it!

[@davidcole4029]

@@ArcticModeler Thank you for the information. It’s very helpful. I have a circle cutter, but with that small of a size, it was cutting very jagged edges. Yes, I am compiling as many photos and background information on all 3 versions. I’m in the fill and sand stage for them.

[@seanmccarthy7591]

She looks great - sorry if I missed it but can you tell me... what colours did you use on the ship?

[@ArcticModeler]

Thank you for appreciating her Sean! The base colour is Tamiya J.N. Grey XF-12 lightened with 10% Tamiya Flat White XF-2. This was easily achieved by adding 1 mL (20 drops) XF-2 to a fresh 10mL bottle of XF-12. The colour on the front of the neck is Tamiya Light Blue XF-23 and the dark grey accent colour is Tamiya Film Grey XF-22. In case you are interested in all the other colours used on the build, I discuss them in part 1 of the more detailed build video series here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYSVc4SAerdgprs.

[@seanmccarthy7591]

@@ArcticModeler Brilliant. Thank you... that is much appreciated. Cheers!

[@Ispintechno2]

Fantastic video. I just ordered this kit it's on the way. Just finishing up the 1/1000 refit. I was honestly looking at the tenacontrols lighting kit and you got this model looking so good without that. Weathering is really the star of the show with this model Watching this video you may have saved me 100 bucks and given me great painting details! Thanks a million

[@ArcticModeler]

Thank you for leaving a comment and for your supportive words. I made the choice not to light it because I really wanted to let the weathering and details be the focus of attention. I must admit, I also like to hold it and admire it by turning it around in my hands sometimes, which is facilitated by not having any power tether. My 350 scale Enterprise is being fully lit though =) I hope you enjoy working on yours and that you find a few helpful tidbits from my build to help along the way. I'm sure you will love the results! All the best.

[@danbarker95]

Hey Arctic Modeler, me again. Wondering if you have an eta on the paints/materials list? Itching to get going on trying to replicate something to your standards. Ready to build 😂

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Daniel, I’m just putting the finishing touches on the refreshed video summary, but here is the paint list from the new description which I finished compiling this weekend: Paint List ======== (all paints are Tamiya Acrylic except where otherwise noted) Base - J.N. Grey XF-12 lightened with Flat White XF-2 (10:1) Blue dorsal - Light Blue XF-23 Turbolift - NATO Green XF-67 Primary dark grey accents (including nacelle tips, tabs, background and ends) - Film Grey XF-22. Light grey nacelle reactor loop and base of deflector dish housing - Light Grey XF-66 Deflector dish housing walls - Titan Gold X-31 Deflector dish - Dark Copper XF-28 Deflector dish needle - Titanium Silver X-32 Deflector grid lines - 4H pencil and erased with Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser Nacelle intercoolers - Sky Grey XF-19 lightened with Flat White XF-2 (2:3) Nacelle front underside - XF-12, Nato Green XF-67 and Dark Sea Grey XF-54 (6:1:1). Nacelle warp field grills - Titanium Silver X-32 Bussard cap - Tamiya Smoke X-19 (1-2 light dustings) Bussard collector base - Vallejo Metallic Red 62.044 Bussard pin stripes - Orange US Art Supply USA-AB1008 White USAS USA-AB1002 (approx 1:2) Homing beacon and navigational array - Chartruesse USAS USA-AB1015 White USAS USA-AB1002 (approx 1:4) with Bright Red (AB1016), Bright Yellow(AB1003) and Orange(AB1008) for stalks Inner white for bridge dome and planetary sensor domes - Gloss White X-2 Hope this helps and that you have a lot of fun building it! All the best.

[@danbarker95]

@@ArcticModeler Ah amazing, this is perfect. The list is more helpful than you know. Time to spend a nice some of money 😂 I'll keep an eye out for your video summary and keep up the good work. You produce some impressive pieces!

[@ArcticModeler]

Hi Daniel, I wanted to let you know that I made an error in the list I originally provided. Please note that the deflector dish needle ended up being X-32 Titanium Silver and the deflector dish housing walls were X-31 Titan Gold. I didn't end up using XF-34 at all so I will be editing that out from my original reply. Sorry about that. Hope your build is going well.

[@danbarker95]

@@ArcticModeler Thank you for your update. Haven't got to that part yet so perfect timing. Its coming along nicely. Very much looking forward to the final touches. Can't wait to see your summary video too. Hopefully you didn't film it before realising the slight mistake 😅