Using Release Fabric with Epoxy Resin

If you're using a traditional epoxy system, like TotalBoat's 5:1 System, you will likely notice a waxy film that remains once the epoxy has cured. If you're laying up fiberglass, the wax,or Amine Blush, will remain on the fiberglass and require scrubbing with soap and water to remove the film. You can avoid this whole hassle by using a release fabric (peel ply) that you wet out on top of your fiberglass layers. It cures with the impregnated fiberglass and allows you to peel the waxy blush off the surface when you remove the release fabric. You're left with a surface that has a consistent, smooth texture that's easy to fill and fair flat. No worries about the blush - it's gone with the fabric!
You can buy TotalBoat Epoxy systems, fiberglass, release fabric and everything you need for your next boat or building or craft project right at www.totalboat.com

[@BuildingMVDauntless]

Darn!! Wish we saw this before doing all the panels! 😂

[@dancook6174]

Does the “ textured surface” that is left behind require sanding or any other preparation before you do fairing or finishing as needed? Or can you fair or I.e. paint on this cured surface?

[@TotalBoat]

it's got a bit of a weave from the fabric so if you wanted it completely smooth you would likely want to fair the surface for a glasslike finish.

[@dancook6174]

TotalBoat ok so after you remove your fabric if you wish to fair or finish in any way you MUST sand the surface flat before you do anything with cured surface.

[@BrindiSea]

@@dancook6174 one of the greatest benefits of peel ply is that it eliminates the need to do that sanding in order to prep for something else. Surprised that's not used here as a selling point.

[@dancook6174]

cbrindisi yes I understand peel ply, can even be accused of using parchment paper more than once, but this video doesn’t explain the benefits or uses for this material, kind of have more questions but no answers after watching it. And their answer above to my initial question, it seems evasive like an old used car salesman.

[@BrindiSea]

@@dancook6174 ok. I thought I was answering your question about having to sand the surface or not before moving on to the next step.

[@JimmyOnions1]

Still no idea how it benefits. Why would you use after you layer up your panel? What benefit? For example, let's say that panel in the demo was a hatch you had made. After laying it up why would you put the peel ply on it? Why wouldn't you just fair it a bit and get it ready for finish? Not tying to be difficult, honestly curious how this would benefit in case it's something that I am missing out on

[@TotalBoat]

You would add the peel ply to give yourself a smoother surface for fairing once the resin has dried. Mostly tho you use it to remove any amine blush that your epoxy might leave that you could NOT just fair without removing. Finishes will fail, bonds will release - blush is ruinous. Don't risk it - remove it - then fair a surface that is much smoother and easier to fill and fair. Hope that helps

[@JimmyOnions1]

TotalBoat ahhhhh! I get it! Thank you for explaining it to me. That sounds like a valuable tool

[@RechargeableLithium]

@jimmy onions - to get better info, look for info on Burt Rutan's Moldless Composite Construction for aircraft. We use peel ply not because it can get rid of the amine blush surface (it will) but mostly because the 'tearing' sound you hear when peel ply is removed is the areas of epoxy that go through the fabric. If you leave the peel ply on until you're ready to fair, bond, or perform the next step, then you can peel the layer off and go - no wiping, no sanding, no other prep - the surface is ready for structural bonding, tabbing, or surface finishing. Another thing it does is to smooth edges. If you use fiberglass tapes, for example, to tab a bulkhead to a hull, and don't use peel ply, the edges of the cloth will be jagged because some of the glass fibers will 'float' up to the surface of the epoxy. Using peel ply over the glass tape keeps the glass strands submerged in the epoxy, but also creates a 'ramp' that tapers the epoxy from the higher level of the glass down to the surface of the hull and bulkhead. No more sanding required to smooth the glass, and possibly no need for filler before a layer of paint to protect the epoxy from UV.

[@JimmyOnions1]

@@RechargeableLithium thank you! I'm repairing my boat and that explanation sheds a lot of light

[@RechargeableLithium]

@@JimmyOnions1 I'm glad it helped! I came from the Rutan experimental aircraft side of composites. I now own a 1979 Cape Dory and some new cans of West Systems epoxy - it's really cool to see that the aircraft info is becoming useful in our boat world! 😀 BTW - the original Rutan/Melville tutorial is on KZbin! Look for: "Building the Rutan Composites - by Ferde Grofe, presented by Burt Rutan and Mike Melvill - full DVD" Happy Glassing, Skipper!