Volvo S60/S80/V70/XC70/XC60/V60 (P3 Platform) Wheel Bearing Replacement

[@mlsvetin1]

I did this job today on my 2007 S80 awd V8. Your video was perfect and I followed it exactly with identical tools and Hub puller. Thanks so much for what you do! There are many of us over here in the US that appreciate you👍

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@mlsvetin1 Wow,man. Thank you! I really appreciate your feedback and also I am glad that I could help ;) The same Volvo is back for front crankshaft seal replacement,timing belt replacement and drive belt replacement, so stay tuned if you are interested. BTW, I didn't know that Volvo has a V8 engine. LOL

[@yl7277]

Where did you find the tool? Do you mind sharing? I found some on eBay but I cannot determine if they are the right fit for P3 Volvos. Thank you! @MrNiceGuy94 and @mlsvetin1

[@SyntheticVisionsAutomotive]

Not too many people are doing this the right way, except you sir! I remember my first bearing on my car, pressed right in using the regular method to only start making noise again the next day! Ordered the tool to do it the right way to find out the install plate didn't fit. Had a local machine shop turn it down to fit and been using it ever since! Thank you very much for your videos! I get a lot of bearing jobs from other garages just pressing them in by the hub.

[@TeamAtterz]

That G clamp trick is literally next level. Love it!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Thank you. Use something flat like a prybar than a jack handle and it will be even easier as it won't roll 😉 But yeah,it's a big help.

[@nottahoughman5051]

This video has great advice and is easy to follow. I purchased the same puller kit, blue case and all, but I was unable to get my bearing out (I broke 2 ratchets). In any case, the press method should work fine, so thank you for including the alternatives. Thank you for making this video.

[@donbavol9672]

This is the same bearing setup as a Ford Edge, Escape, Focus, etc and Land Rover Freelander 2/LR2. This video helped me do this same job using the exact same tool (from Amazon) on my 2010 Land Rover LR2.

[@dobrien757]

I have owned my 2010 S80 D5 since new now has 240000miles and I swear they eat wheel bearings😂 now needs its 9th new bearing lol Thanks man! Great vid

[@wilbobagins]

When did they start to go? I'm on 120k miles with 2010 XC70 and still on original bearings

[@gotrips3211]

It was a wonderful video regarding wheel bearing replacement!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Thank you 😉 I hope it helped you.

[@reinimechanic]

I was able to do this job without the special tools! I used a puller made by SIR Tools that I happened to have in the shop to take the hub out but it could be cut out with a torch or use a BFH to the rear of the bearing. Getting it out isn't the problem because you can cut, bash on and destroy the old bearing. The problem is getting the new bearing in without ruining it so here is the tip. Clean out the hole good with a "drill wire wheel" or flap wheel. Put the new bearing in your freezer. I left mine there until it was 35F. Wrap the ball joint, tierod end, ABS speed sensor with soaking wet rags. I used an oxy/acetylene torch with a rosebud tip but propane will do the trick. Heat the steering knuckle working mostly from the bottom with the torch. Using a temp gun to monitor I heated until this knuckle was about 350F on bottom about 280F on top trying not to fry the ABS sensor rusted into the hole. With some motor oil on the frozen bearing I slid the new bearing hub assembly into the knuckle in one quick well aligned movement. No hammering just straight from the freezer, line it up perfect and slip it in quickly. As soon as it bottoms in the hole the temperatures will balance between the parts and the bearing will be solid. Worked good, didn't have to buy the tool but the risk is that it's a one shot deal if you mess this up you'll be pressing your new bearing out to try again and it may damage your new bearing pressing it out. Thanks for this video, the clamp and jack handle on the control arm is clever, I love that.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@reinimechanic Wow. I can imagine how difficult that was. I think the tool well worth the price (I paid around £70 for it). What I wish I had done was to put the bearing to the fridge prior installing it back. I think that would have made a huge difference, but I didn't think of it. Believe it or not, I posted that clip of the C clamp and the jack handle on Facebook to help people having the same or similar job to do. And majority of the comments were negative, that it is such a waste of time. Sure we all do things differently and my point was to make things easier with basic tools you might have at home. Of course you can push the control arm down with your hands and monkey out the ball joint from the knuckle with your third arm :D but that's exhausting. Anyways I am so glad you liked the video, I highly appreciate it!!! This is why it is worth to make this kind of videos. I wish you have a nice day!

[@train4905]

Exellent job sir,,i really liked the G CLAMP IDEA,AWSOME😊😊

[@protrader178]

Superb video, nicely filmed and clearly explained. Thank you

[@millennialmindset3624]

I have changed three front wheel bearings on my V60 using this video and a press tool. Thanks mate for the clear instructions! Are you not supposed to have a gasket on the inside where the ABS-sensor is placed because my bearing got worn out after six months. I changed the bearing in August 23, in January 24 it was starting to have damages. It can be four options for that now after some thought: 1) A bad bearing from the manufacturer, 2) wrong front wheel alignment since the tie rod has been broken this whole time, 3) to harsh treatment of the bearing whem it was changed in 23 since it was a struggle to get that on and now just before reviewing this video 4) looking at the old strut on the other side it has a gasket there.

[@markusgranberg8004]

Thanks!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@Markus Granberg Thank you buddy,really appreciate it.

[@kurtgood2914]

Very helpful video and thanks for sharing this my friend

[@cofty]

Excellent description of the task thanks

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Thanks for the comment. ;) I am glad it helped you.

[@johndaw7764]

Yeah, I need to tackle this soon. Great video, the best I've seen on this job. Any recommendations on where to get the bearing puller tool?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Thanks 😉 I think there is the link in the comments for the exact same tool I used in the video. Let me know if you have found it.

[@soedesh1234]

My 2010 XC60 ball joint is different from the one shown. It doesn't have an axial bolt to hold it to the knuckle, it has a bolt transversely through the knuckle. The ball joint tool shown won't work because there is nothing to press down on from the top. Any other tricks to separate that style of ball joint?

[@jodavies8952]

My D5 loves front wheel bearings🫣,next time im buying the carrier with bearing from Volvo,i don't think these replacement bearings,even FAG, are long lasting. Maybe there is to much weight on front axle of car?

[@volvodude101]

This video saved my ass. Thanks mate!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

I am glad it did :D Although,could you explain how exactly it did save your ass? :P

[@I2ich1e]

Great video thanks. I need to replace hub bearing assembly on my Volvo v50 looks very similar. You could always remove the strut lower knuckle and drop link then the whole assembly will drop then just remove hub using tool? This should also work? Thanks

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@richard robinson I am so glad you liked the video. I think removing the knuckle and using this tool is not a good idea and it won't work. Reason is, because the tool is designed to remove the wheel bearing in situ, which means the knuckle remains attached to the strut. If you remove the knuckle and want to use the tool, you would have someone holding the knuckle while you are removing the wheel bearing. So technically you can use the tool with the knuckle removed, but there is no point and also it would be a lot more difficult because you need a quite great force to make the wheel bearing pop then remove it, so the other person must be extremely strong to hold against you. :D Other thing is, if you have the knuckle removed I would definitely use a hydraulic press to press out the bearing but would use the tool to press it in with the knuckle installed back first. One correction to my video: If I am about to do it again I would reconnect the tie rod end ball joint in order to prevent the knuckle from moving, that way the removal and install is hell of a lot easier. Hope this all makes sense, however if you need any further help or just simply have more questions about it then don't hesitate to ask them ;)

[@I2ich1e]

@@MrNiceGuy94 thanks for your reply, what you said makes complete sense. I’m just wondering how easy it is to remove the lower control arm joint without a special tool?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@@I2ich1e It would be difficult, first I tried it with a hammer, no luck. The tool costs around £20. Here is the link for it: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000SDRGYC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_api_glt_fabc_66MYFFDZPQ1XDBE0V1GK?

[@I2ich1e]

@@MrNiceGuy94 thanks for your help I’ve found a tool for £15. Will this do the job? Ball Joint Puller Separator Splitter Removal Tool amzn.eu/d/6VUPvS2

[@kylerandolph79]

Get a long bar Put downward pressure on control arm at the ball joints With balljoint nut still on but loosened and putting pressure smack the control arm by the ball balljoint with your hammer if it doesn't pop with the first hit hit it harder

[@rafalbroncel5792]

Hi, thanks for the video! Can you tell where is ABS sensor ring? Is it always part of bearing?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Hello,You are welcome. In this case you don't have ABS sensor ring, it is integrated in the wheel bearing. But it is not always like that. Sometimes you have a separate ABS ring or reluctor ring. If you have any further questions feel free to ask them.

[@edbrandt8972]

Is it best to keep the knuckle attached to the strut? Or can you do the job with the knuckle completely removed? Thanks

[@MrNiceGuy94]

You can do the job with the knuckle removed if you have a press machine. But if you will do the job with the tool used in the video I would say that it's easier if you don't remove it.

[@BigBrother217]

The s60 t6 its the same?

[@AlphaGamingCa]

I can't find this type of hub ouller/presser. Is there a specific bame for it?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

www.amazon.co.uk/Wheel-Bearing-Removal-Carbon-Steel/dp/B093GQCRRB/ref=sr_1_5?crid=35MJ37IK4LJGU&keywords=gen+2+wheel+bearing+tool+82mm&qid=1690998888&sprefix=gen+2+wheel+bearing+tool+82mm%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-5 This is the one I used I think. The important thing is that it has to be 82mm in diameter.

[@bosozoku_volvo]

So there's no retainer for the bearing assembly? Just want to check before I get it on the press.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Hi, you are right, there is no retainer in this bearing so you can use the press to press it out. However I recommend to use the tool made for this job when putting back the new bearing, in order to avoid damaging it.

[@bosozoku_volvo]

@@MrNiceGuy94 thank you very much! I agree with using the tool, but the press at my shop is the best I have at the moment. I'll see how it goes, yknow?

[@davidclarke427]

My 2012 p3 xc70 has pinch bolt ball joint

[@dobocsillag7007]

Szia! Egy olyan kérdésem lenne hogy 2007es v50 hez is ugyan ez a 82mm es csapágy lehúzó való? A másik kérdésem pedig az, hogy találtam több megoldást is a csapágy cserére, én is szerelő vagyok de főként mezőgazdasági gépekkel és kamionokkal foglalkozom, így személyautóknál nincs nagy tapasztalatom, (ez a saját autóm amin cserélni kellene a csapágyat) láttam hogy ezt a cserét meg lehet oldani hidraulikus csapágylehúzóval és műhely préssel is. Van is hozzáférésem 2tonnás 2/3karos hidraulikus csapágylehúzóhoz és 20tonnás préshez is, a csapágy szempontjából ezek mennyire biztonságosak ebben az esetben, valamint van e annyival könnyebb megoldani a videóban látható lehúzóval hogy megérje e azt megvennem ezért az egy munkáért ? Köszi előre is a tanácsot és a segítséget!

[@dobocsillag7007]

Megnéztem a v50nél 78mm a kerékcsapágy külső mérete, erre még jó a 82es lehúzó? Az egyel kisebb amit találtam az már túl kicsi, csak 72mm.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

hello, pontos meretut kell venned hozza, mert kulonben nem fog mukodni, vagy univerzalisat amin allithato a meret. Vissza semmi keppen se preselheted ezt a fajta csapagyat mert 1honap mulva cserelheted ujbol. A videoban elmagyarazom miert. Ha esetleg kerdesed lenne irj ram facebook, ugyan az a nev es profilkep mint itt. ;)

[@dobocsillag7007]

@@MrNiceGuy94 köszi a választ, azóta találtam még egy magyar boltot ahol van 78milis, azt meg fogom rendelni. Így a videóból nagyjából megvan hogy kell kicserélni meg néztem azóta más videót is, jövő hónapban lesz egy hét szabim akkor neki is tudok állni, ha esetleg elakadok valamiben akkor írok majd, köszi mégegyszer. Itt a közelben sajnos nem nagyon van volvo/ford specialista, csak általános szervízek akiknek nem hiszem hogy lenne ehhez célszerszámjuk, meg hamár a kamionokkal boldogulok akkor szerintem ez is menni fog ha megveszem hozzá a megfelelő szerszámot :D

[@dobocsillag7007]

​@@MrNiceGuy94 megvagyok a cserével, most hogy újra megnéztem a videót, eszembe jutott hogy ennél a típusnál nem kell ennyit bontani a féltengelyhez, elég ha kiveszed a lengőkar első csavarját, a hátsó szilent önmagában már fog annyit engedni hogy elmozdítsad annyira a kerékagyat hogy kihúzd a féltengelyt és így egyik gömbfejet sem kell lekötnöd.

[@stevehudson4151]

Please post a link to the tool you used in your comments section of the video. Thank you

[@MrNiceGuy94]

It's there already I think, just read the comments.

[@Light-fp9dh]

Do you have the torch settings for all these bolts?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

for the drive shaft bolt the torque settings are in the video. For the rest I have just tightened them down with a ratchet.

[@davidclarke427]

my p3 xc70 has pinch bolt not stud for lower ball joint

[@nntstudios]

link to kit?

[@rjfvolvohonda249]

Thank you. Do you have a part# for the bearing removal/install tool ?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@RJFVOLVOHONDA Sure ;) Here is a link for if You are UK based: 🇬🇧amzn.to/3p0cWbk - this one is for the 82mm bearing.🇬🇧 amzn.to/3s17TcI - this is a universal kit and includes adapters for 62,66,72,85mm bearing. And here is a link if You are US based: 🇺🇸amzn.to/3IblIew Unfortunately this is the only kit I found which was the same as I used in the video. Hope I could help.

[@rjfvolvohonda249]

@@MrNiceGuy94 I am in the US but the link will probably help. Thanks for taking the time to make the video

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@RJFVOLVOHONDA I am glad I could help ;)

[@OldMotorcycleAdventures]

I need some help here. Apparently the AWD have a different knuckle, but whatever. I have the LCA ball joint broken loose, but even with all my weight, a pry bar, a jack handle, a fork, none of them will get the lower control arm all the way out. I am out of ideas, and very frustrated. I have been at this for 4 hours now just trying to get the control arm off the knuckle

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Hello try the method in the link kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJK0lauemdiJZsU Let me know if it helped...I takes a quite big effort to get it out from the knuckle so be patient.

[@OldMotorcycleAdventures]

@@MrNiceGuy94 it did finally end up working out. I ended up having to use a pry bar under my knee(hoping I didn't smack my goods), and tweak the knuckle while doing it. It took all my weight to do it. I have the new one pressed in now, but it is dark so I didn't get the ball joints put back together yet. I am sure I ruined the grease boots, any advice for that? I bought some universal ones from the auto parts place, not sure if they will work. I appreciate the quick response!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Well, if you want to replace the ball joint I would go either with Moog or Febi Bilstein, here are the links Moog UK amzn.to/3MnTDTF Febi UK amzn.to/3vXFNSj Unfortunately the OEM are riveted, so I would remove the whole control arm, use either a chisel or a dremel tool to remove the rivets and then the ball joint. If you have replaced it, don't forget that you have to torque down the control arm bolt under load, but only the one which has a bushing in it is necessary. I hope I could help, feel free to ask if something is not clear or you need help. ;)

[@OldMotorcycleAdventures]

@@MrNiceGuy94 no way to just change out the rubber boots or just get by the way they are? I feel like changing the whole joint out will be a disaster as well

[@MrNiceGuy94]

I wouldn't bother myself with that, rather change the whole unit. It shouldn't be that difficult there are bolts holding the control arm to the frame,one with a bushing around it and two regular ones I believe. And there are three rivets holding the ball joint to the control arm. You don't neccesarily have to remove the control arm, you can do the job while it is in place, just cover the rubber cv joint with something to protect it from the spark when you will be cutting. I would cut the head off of the rivet with a dremel tool then you are good to go,just have to replace the ball joint.

[@Blueberry-ek1yy]

Where can I buy special tools? Thank you!!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Hi. Which tool do you exactly mean? The one for the wheel bearing? You can buy that off of amazon or ebay, but there different diameters for different sized wheel bearings. Do you have exactly the same car and model?

[@Blueberry-ek1yy]

@@MrNiceGuy94 I own the Volvo s80, P3. OK.. I need a tool the wheel bearing. Where can I buy the tools shown in your video?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@Blue berry Can you please confirm which country are you from? I will send you the appropriate link of the tool.

[@Blueberry-ek1yy]

@@MrNiceGuy94 thanks im a korean

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@Blue berry www.amazon.co.uk/ROMYIX-19pcs-Bearing-Tooling-Bearings/dp/B08TQNYT7P/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=gen+2+wheel+bearing+puller+82mm&qid=1659796046&sprefix=82mm+wheel+bearin%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-13 This is the tool used in the video. I am not sure where you can buy it in Korea, but it is called 82mm wheel bearing removal tool. Type it in wherever you used to buy tools from such as ebay or amazon and look for the same one as I linked. It can be from different manufacturer that doesn't matter. The important thing is it has to be 82mm in diameter and has to look the same as in the picture and has to contain the same parts. If you need any further help let me know, or you can link what you have found and I will confirm whether it is the right tool or not.

[@zayevans3136]

Does this work for my 2010 Volvo xc60?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

If it is on the P3 platform then yes.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

I have checked it, and yes it should be the P3 platform, so yes you have the same type of wheel bearing. However it is worth to doublecheck.

[@zayevans3136]

@@MrNiceGuy94 will do! Thanks boss man have a good day!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@@zayevans3136 you are welcome,buddy. Hope the video will help in the process. 😉✋

[@soedesh1234]

My 2010 XC60 ball joint is different from the one shown. It doesn't have an axial bolt to hold it to the knuckle, it has a bolt transversely through the knuckle. The ball joint tool shown won't work because there is nothing to press down on from the top. Any other tricks to separate that style of ball joint?

[@philoskill15]

no abs sensor cable ?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

There definitely was, I must have disconnected it and just didn't show it on camera.

[@brederasmussen3075]

Good instructive video! Keep ut the good work

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Thank you very much Brede! I am glad you liked it. I hope that all of my videos will be as helpful as this one. Have a great day!

[@brederasmussen3075]

​ @MrNiceGuy One question. Which ball joint separator did you use, and does it need to have exat 21mm jaw opening? Or could it be bigger like 22mm? I'm having a little trouble getting the lower ball joint off, just whacking it with a hammer hasn't helped.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@@brederasmussen3075 Hi Brede, yes you can use the ball joint separator with 22m jaw,but you can't use anything smaller than 21mm as it won't fit around the ball joint. Also you have to take into consideration that you have to get the separator with the biggest spread, because the ball joint is quite tall if it makes any sense. So you have to fit it around and over the ball joint as well. PS.: you won't get anywhere with a hammer, I have been there, it didn't work :D Here is the link for the separator I used: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000SDRGYC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_api_glt_fabc_66MYFFDZPQ1XDBE0V1GK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR067bkWrpFQpNUqw-i1jrhcd8aeIv0lrLK8vsFTIGQOhuiZMQY3-59u02A If any other question feel free to ask.

[@brederasmussen3075]

@@MrNiceGuy94 Awsome. Thanks for the help. Have a nice day!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@@brederasmussen3075 You are welcome! ;)

[@DanielArnolf]

Amazing, thank you so much.

[@chasechevy8933]

Amazing job

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Thank you, mate! 😉

[@attilanagy2856]

Eldobom az agyam!!! :) Pont mondtam páromnak, hogy mennyire intelligens, igényes videó arról, hogyan kellene kivitelezni ami most jött elő hiba az autómon. Erre letekerek a kommentek aljára és leesik az állam ! :) Volvo v60 2010 d5 AWD, Svájcban élek, a törött tükrömet, 750 chf-ért cserélték volna, úgyhogy ezt már meg sem merem kérdezni. Nem tudod véletlenül, mekkora bearing tool kit-re lenne szükségem? Nem vagyok szuper nagy autoszaki, de fogtam már szerszámot a kezemben és ilyen igényes video alapján biztos vagyok benne, hogy meg tudnám csinálni. Köszönöm a válaszod, máris feliratkozom!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Wow,nagyon szepen koszonom a kommentet,nagyon jol esett! ;) A videoban benne kellene lennie, de 82mm-es bearing tool fog kelleni hozza. Egyebkent nem nehez munka, es tuti sokat sporolsz vele,plane ha 750chf-ert cserelik nalatok a tukroket :D :D Ha barhol elakadsz,nyugodtan irj,ha tudok segitek. ;) Eloszor is nezd vegig a videot,benne van az osszes szerszam amire szukseged lesz. Elore szolok,hogy nehez lesz lehuzni a csapagyat :D :D Egyket izom tuti bedurran majd ;P

[@attilacsepe4946]

Hello MrNiceGuy Maga Magyar?

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Hello, nem kell magazni :D Igen, magyar vagyok ;)

[@attilacsepe4946]

@@MrNiceGuy94 jaj de jó! Üdv Wadsworth, ohiobol. Nagyon örülök, hogy megnéztem a videót. Ugyanis, szerelő vagyok, S ma hozott egy ürge egy 2007es Volvo v70-est. Első agycsapagy cserére szorul. Van egy komplett agycsapagy garnitúrám, de nem alkalmas erre a munkára. Meg fogom rendelni az általad ajánlott garnitúrát. Mégegyszer, köszi!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Udv Angliabol ;) Ha rendeled es amazonrol akkor nagyon megkoszonnem ha az alabbi linket hasznalnad, mivel kapok belole par %-ot amzn.to/3pQ1Nuh Arra figyelj hogy olyat rendelj amilyen atmeroju csapagyad van, a videoban szereplo volvon 82mm csapagy volt. Meg annyit hozzatennek hogy mindenkeppen rendelj a szetthez thrust bearing-et (bocsi,nem tudom a magyar nevet) hidd el nagyon megkonnyiti a munkad ;) Ha barmi segitsegre szorulsz, nyudodtan irj a video ala, nagyon szivesen segitek!

[@attilacsepe4946]

@@MrNiceGuy94 Szia! Ha megkapom a munkát akkor alkalmazom a linket. Eloször meg kell egyezni a kuncsafttal. De még egy gond van, marpedig a csapagy atmerö. A szerszam azt irja, (es te is azt mondod), hogy a szerszam 82mm csapaggyal mükodik. Ha ra megyek a Rockauto odalara, es beirom a kocsit (2007 Volvo V70 AWD 2.5 turbo), latom a Durago 29513255 csapagyat. Az irat szerint a kulso atmero (hub pilot diameter) 78mm. Ezek szerint a szerszam nem fog mukodni.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Hali,kuldj egy kepet az autorol es a csapagyrol is hogy milyet mutat neked es az alapjan tudok segiteni, illetve szerszamot is linkelni ;) Esetleg ha pontosabb leirast is tudnal adni a kocsi tipusarol(hanyadik generacios V70,hany lovas pontosan) [e-mail] ide kuldd nygodtan az infot es a kepeket es holnap valaszolok ra ;) vagy lehet meg ma.

[@veryrudeguy]

ok, i'm taking it to mechanic. Thanks

[@bannor216]

i want to give you money for this video

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Wow, if this is for real than it's much appreciated! All you have to do is like the video and subscribe for more. That helps tremendously ;)

[@bannor216]

you sound like londo mollari from babylon 5

[@MrNiceGuy94]

I just checked who he is, you made my day :D :D :D :D And yes, I really sound somewhat like him :D That's my Eastern European accent.

[@bigbenz300d]

Sirrus