Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 4 The XY Frame

[@ItsDaPlumber]

You sir, Mr Corn are the king of Voron tutorial videos! Nobody is better......... No one! Why haven't they hired you yet? I thank and appriciate you for all the effort you put into these videos. They have helped me greatly, more than any guide or forum. Again, thank you!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you and you are welcome!

[@GrumpyDave1]

This is the first video where it deviates quite considerable from the 2.4R2. These videos are just so useful with handy hints and there are still many direct comparisons that it is actually still worth watching the videos with the later build. Kudos

[@scottcorn]

Thank you.

[@MichaelCarreras]

Hey Scott, thanks for the vids and attention to detail. You asked for some feedback so here it goes. I would recommend for those who didn't already figure it out, leaving the xy frame a little loose and make sure the gantry seats squarely and the frame is square before snugging it up. Also noticed that you made changes to the tensioners, but did not explain this change in this version of the vid, that threw me for a loop for a sec. I corrected them fairly easily once I got my head around it!! I am following both the manual and you and Thanks again for your time and patience putting this together. Side note, there are some instances where applying the lock-tite first is beneficial and saves some headache as it really doesn't dry that fast. Happy New Year!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I'm getting ready to install the gantry this week. You are correct that the final squaring of everything should be done there. I ended the last video without installing everything because I was out of time. Never enough time. lol I built the tensioners upside down in the video. I fixed it in the next video. KZbin doesn't allow you to append or update videos unfortunately so it had to be the next video. I wish they allowed the community tab I would have put it out there also. You have to have 1000 subscribers for the tab now. Thanks again for watching. Maybe I'll hit 1000 subscribers one of these days.

[@MichaelCarreras]

@@scottcorn No doubt, time, the true immortal enemy of mortal men. I'm out for another week myself. Thanks again, and looking forward to the updates.

[@alexarregoces]

Yes, he made changes to the tensioners in this video and didn't explain it; I spent about half an hour being confused. Thanks for these videos, great job and very helpful

[@sythasfaroth]

These videos have been really great. Building my 2.4 along with you!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I'm working on the 5th video now.

[@TheArtIbarra]

Thanks for taking us on this journey. Enjoying it very much 🤟🏼

[@scottcorn]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@jeffmoberley550]

These videos have been very helpful. Just the right amount of detail. I start my 2.4 adventure in a couple of weeks. Can't wait:).

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. These printers are fun to build. There is so much research that has been put into them. It seems like no matter how much effort I put into other printers they were always less than great.

[@kylestromberg4768]

Great job Scott!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you.

[@ZeonsZone]

Thanks again for making the videos. Great detail. Btw for people following along: This is the 2.4 rev1 but 2.4R2 is out so keep that in mind since they do not perfectly match up and have some different parts(which I just found out). Had me scratching my head until I downloaded both to compare Opinion for later on. If there is a mix up on the build, Edit/add it to the description with the start time of that section to prepare people since you cant go back into the video to do it there. Keep up the great work!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. They changed the instructions before I could get done. I have to use the instructions yet for the panels and skirt. I'll call out what I'm using.

[@ZeonsZone]

@Scott Corn I didn't notice a difference during the build until seeing the X carriage only having 1 rail in Rev2 vs the 2 rail build on Rev1. Also, I didn't know there was a change in revision when ordering my printed parts to start the build, so I have a rev1 kit with rev 2 printed parts 😅. At least just getting the different x carriages rail will get me going again. I had a day of freaking out trying to hunt down what changed between R1 and R2 until finally seeing that was the only big hardware change. There is a spreadsheet out there somewhere that compares which printed parts are the same and what needs to be re-printed for R2. Sadly, it's not on the main Voron page.

[@scottcorn]

It's always confusing when stuff is changed. :-)

[@RobYale54]

I have to mention that your choice of music for this series is fantastic!

[@scottcorn]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@TheGalifrey]

When doing the rails, use the centring guide on the front rail and leave the underside rail loose to be tightened once you have the toolhead carriage attached. That way your X-Axis is straight and the underside extra rail (which many leave out) is tightened to match.

[@scottcorn]

Thanks, that's good advise. I'll finish the 2.4, but I think the 2.5 change to a single rail was a good change. I'll have a upgrade video a few months down the road I think.

[@TheGalifrey]

@@scottcorn There is a new version coming with a single MGN12H rail, that should make things a lot easier.

[@scottcorn]

Yes, I figure I will upgrade early next year. I want to finish the current version and build the new parts on it. I do think the single rail is a step up. The new cooling and extruder also look good. Hopefully they will have the kinks worked out by the time I'm ready.

[@jpguppy08]

Would the use of two rails like originally intended help prevent some of the x axis deflection seen when in a heated chamber? (from the differences in the two materials). I would assume using the single 12 profile you'll absolutely need the backers to help prevent this.

[@TheGalifrey]

@@jpguppy08 A calibrate bed mesh is all you need to account for the deflection. It allows the Firmware to compensate for any deflection as long as you heatsoak you machine for an hour before running the mesh.

[@lukiong]

Well done on the video, can't wait for your next episode to follow the build!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you! I'm probably putting the 5th one out later today.

[@lukiong]

@@scottcorn just in time! I am about to finish off my build based on your part 4. Thank you!

[@scottcorn]

You are welcome. I released the fifth one today. Glad they are useful.

[@perfectscotty]

Great videos Scott, Thank you so much.

[@scottcorn]

Thanks for watching!

[@superhub123]

Got to compliment you on your attention to detail and use of instructions. Mid build myself been waiting for final parts for mods etc. Your video helped double check my build before giving it the go ahead. Definitely had belt alignment issues on one motor I forgot to double check due to distractions and bad lighting. Definitely among the best videos so far to fully avoid mistakes. P.S. I'd skip the double mgn9 rails on X and use them as spare. Go for the single mgn12 rail mod on X it will spare you allot of time redoing stuff later. Voron will eventually add the mgn12 to the 2.4 officially once they have time and with Stealthburner coming might as well do it now for an easy upgrade.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you I'm trying to do a box stock v2.4 for the many that already had the parts. (myself included) I figure I'll do the upgrades as separate videos. I know I'll do the Stealthburner and I've been planning a clicky probe for a while. (got the parts in from China) I also think once RCF gets the Clockwork 2 out I'll probably do it with the heavier rails then.

[@superhub123]

@@scottcorn Fair enough. Klicky is something I'll do once the china probe dies and I have the voron 2.4 done with enclosure so I can print it in nylon PA. Any chance you're doing the jump to Octo pro and 5160 drivers for X and Y? Anyway got a sub from me interested in following the progress.

[@jpguppy08]

Working through my 2.4 build now. My tip: when putting on the second linear rail on the x axis extrusion, loosely attach the rail at both ends, then cut off half of the 'leg' of one of the centering jigs to allow it to be used to center the rail.

[@scottcorn]

Cool, mine turned out ok, but I did need to adjust the one rail a little to make it smooth.

[@jelse2525]

What are your abs settings for parts? They are turning out beautiful!

[@scottcorn]

These are the recommended settings from Voron. Layer height: 0.2mm Extrusion width: 0.4mm, forced Infill percentage: 40% Infill type: grid, gyroid, honeycomb, triangle, or cubic Wall count: 4 Solid top/bottom layers: 5 Supports: NONE I'll have to extract my Cura settings if you want them. They would be specific to a heavily modified TwoTrees Sapphire with a V6 hotend though. Disclaimer: (Sure you know) You have to put your printer in some sort of box to get the heat saturation for ABS. It may/probably will kill your non Voron printer. I just killed my old one trying to get a ABS print done. (It was a fragile printer to start with) If you do box it in try to only box in the print area. I covered the whole printer and just hoped the electronics would survive. I did change to this later on, but it seems it was too late. Mine was all metal, but I've heard the printed parts on a Prusa won't survive well at ABS saturation temperatures. I don't have one so I don't know this for sure. So I don't take credit where it's not due. The parts in the later videos (extruder, hotend, fans) where done by Brewweasel who does PIF printing. The early videos (feet, motor mounts, etc) where mine. I was impatient and the cue was long. lol

[@whatyoudo9773]

holy crud, I cant believe how many steps your showing that you fully showed many times...Im now just skimming the bottom for interesting parts....its like a build guide for that guy from Momento.

[@scottcorn]

I do less of this in later videos. I think I'm getting better at it.

[@whatyoudo9773]

@@scottcorn you have the right attitude at least, I just let it play in the backround cause the music is pretty cool.

[@joell439]

👍😎👍

[@scottcorn]

Thank you

[@Slydog43UTube]

Thanks, looking forward to step 5 :)

[@scottcorn]

Thanks, it should be out Saturday. I'm about 2/3 done now.

[@Slydog43UTube]

@@scottcorn thanks man for the update.

[@jagathcc4776]

so much effort yet so few views ☹️ makes me sad you deserve a lot more views..

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. Maybe I'll get there one day.

[@lcdconsultant5252]

Nice work, I been waiting all week :-) Curious why you didn’t you use the hartk board in your machine? Seems like a much simpler wire bundle. I see you sell lots of Voron parts including the Hartk PCB on EBay. I had a hard time finding your EBay link again. I may need some other spare parts. Can you include it somewhere.

[@scottcorn]

I want to do the build stock to begin with. I’ll mod it once it’s up and going. I had to stop selling parts. The tax laws changed this year and all money you receive from PayPal is considered income when you aren’t a business not just the profits. It was always this way, but now they report the money at $600 and up. It was $20,000. I have a lot of parts yet. Contact me on Discord scorn#0711 if you like and maybe we can figure something out.

[@nigozeroichi2501]

I've been going back and forth watching your build and running test parts on my QQ-S PRO getting it dialed in for running ABS, yep printing my own, I have a bad habit of, crank on it till you snap it off then back it off a quarter turn, if I damage anything I'll just print another, after a few choice words🤬🤬🤬🤬 of course😁👍

[@scottcorn]

Yes, I get to edit out my choice words.😀

[@Giovanni2862]

Thanks

[@scottcorn]

No problem

[@customsolutionsinc]

Why is your x rail diff than manual.... 2 9h rails instead of a single 12h?

[@scottcorn]

They just recently went to that in the last couple of months. When I bought the parts and started the build it was Voron 2.4 now it's Voron 2.4R2.

[@customsolutionsinc]

@@scottcorn well just sorted thru my parts to realize i have r1 parts and the mgn12h for r2.... bummer one step backwords

[@scottcorn]

@@customsolutionsinc It's always confusing when they make changes. Price of progress I guess. The MGN12 will probably server you better anyway.

[@customsolutionsinc]

@@scottcorn yeah, i believe i just to reprint cariage halves and xy joints upper and lowers.

[@jamesbonds3232]

I think you missing something in the video. There are 1 m3 an one m5 not and screw in each side of each y axis rails that not mentioned in the video. This will weaken the joints and may cause malfunction later please fix it.

[@scottcorn]

Can you point me to the Voron manual page where these screws are called out? I'm not understanding what screws you are saying. The picture in the manual will help me.

[@jamesbonds3232]

@@scottcorn sorry I missed step on this. Your are doing it correctly. The leftover m3 and m5 screws are meant to put the z belts block on them on later steps. I am sorry !

[@scottcorn]

@@jamesbonds3232 No problem at all. :)

[@phazedude]

Great videos about assembling the Voron ! The only comment i have - please shorten the "required parts" before each step to 1/4 time of it. for example if now it's 20 seconds you can make it 5 seconds. Those are really long and annoying parts of the video

[@scottcorn]

Yes, I agree. I've been pressed for time on them and haven't done a last pass for timing. I need to just take the time even if I feel the video needs to go out. It's strange but KZbin runs about 20% faster then I see directly in the editor. So if I make it what seems like a good speed in the editor it ends up being too fast on KZbin. I'm new at it and still need to figure out things like that.

[@scottcorn]

Oh, and thank you

[@hosr888]

Don't start your videos with just pictures, make a little sample video at start. Your videos are super informative and nicely shot but you almost lost me at the start because I thought its a slideshow.

[@scottcorn]

I'll see what I can do. I see your point. I shut down videos that are slide shows also. I do need to make a small change again on the next video up front. Many suggested I turn the dragon hotend around (backwards) so it's less likely to melt the probe. I'm going to take their advice.

[@dontmakemegothere7904]

Video is only 39 minutes long, but I'm sure I've got close to 2 hours of watch time. Lol

[@scottcorn]

I don't know how many hours I have in it. lol Thank You

[@armankhan-qq1pe]

Sir big fan 👍👍🤝🤝 Amazing Video sir

[@scottcorn]

Thank you

[@armankhan-qq1pe]

Sir I want to buy XY frame 3d printer sir don’t mind I really like this product.😊😊😊

[@armankhan-qq1pe]

Tell me sir plzz

[@scottcorn]

@@armankhan-qq1pe Misunderstood you. You can't buy this printer. You can only build it. The information to buy the parts and manuals are at www.vorondesign.com/

[@armankhan-qq1pe]

@@scottcorn sir I’m not professional building this 3d printer. But sir can do it because You are my teacher. 👍