VW TDI: No-Start after Engine REBUILD? (Part 1)

[@WatchWesWork]

Man what a punch in the gut to rebuild the engine and transmission and then have it not start at all!

[@markstevens1729]

Wouldn’t the last mile of getting it to run be just a part of the rebuild? Working out the kinks.

[@turki_2104]

had it been you working on it, there would be discontinued parts to make the rebuild extra spicy XD I know your luck mr. Wes

[@Nabeelco]

It's a VW, if it doesn't punch you in the gut, you start thinking it doesn't love you. It is an abusive relationship after all. Trust me, I know, I have three.

[@markstevens1729]

@@Nabeelco yes, I had one years ago, and after enough gut blows to make it hard to eat (poverty..) I all but gave it away. Hello Toyota!

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Nothing like second guessing everything you did...

[@nijloveanugelu]

Hy! I am from Romania.We have lots of passats around here 1.9 tdi. Usualy when you change the fuel filter you must fill it with diesel because it wont start after you change it if you dont fill it.In your case you filled the fuel sistem,so check the timing belt, something is wrong based on that code.Allso check the camshaft lash for the injectors.

[@jensole2617]

P3008… Disconnect the camshaft position sensor and cranck the engine… if it starts now it`s probably the timing sprocket that`s not correct adjusted when the engine was assembled. The camshaft sprocket is dividend in two parts and can be adjusted and normally the outer sprocket bolts must be in the “middle” position in the slots!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great info, thank you Jens!

[@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic]

I guess if I were working on it I would check to see if the injectors are energizing. I’m not familiar with the fuel system in this engine so I don’t know if it’s mechanical injector or electrically energized injectors. I assume it is electrically energized. I would also check the bleed procedure to see if there are any more steps to bleeding the system. The pumps make high pressure but if there is air in the fuel system it won’t build due to the air acting as a cushion. Especially critical in mechanical injector systems.

[@juergenscholl2843]

This looks like the 1.9 PD TDI, an excellent, reliable engine. Low side fuel pressure at cranking should be enough at 2 bar, from there the pump/injector units should take over. If they don't get pulsed -which I "suppose" - then you may want to revise the cam sensor. Thank you for the video. And yes, that's a hell of a starter battery if it wasn't charged in between!

[@Cowboy_Ash]

It’s a 2.0 engine which is very different from the earlier more reliable 1.9

[@awd42]

@@Cowboy_Ash Still pretty similar to the other PD engines. Passat got the 130HP 2.0L BHW; Jetta/Golf got the 100HP 1.9L BEW (A4) and BRM (A5). All are pretty solid, but there are a few known trouble spots. The TDIClub forums are a great resource!

[@ferrumignis]

@@awd42 The 2.0L PD engine suffers from the dreaded oil pump drive failure, I wonder if that's what lead to the rebuild of this one.

[@robevans8625]

@@Cowboy_Ash The Bkd variant of the 2.0 is a very close relative to the 1.9

[@robevans8625]

@@ferrumignis Not the BKD it runs its oil pump in the same way the 1.9 does. The golf didn't have the balance shaft module of the a4 and the more expensive cars to create a smoother engine.

[@31terikennedy]

You really can't get mad at the owner. He's a kid who wants to learn. Ivan, with his supreme patience, is the just the guy to teach him. Well done Ivan.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

He was the most polite kid I ever met and was eager to learn! Much respect!

[@nijloveanugelu]

And remember that the cranshaft/camshaft corelation set the firing order and timing of the injectors.On this particular engine it doesnt have high pressure fuel pump,each injector have its own hp integrated in it,driven by the camshaft lobe.So,if the timing is incorect and the electrical impulse doesnt occur during the hp injector stroke the diesel injection in the cilinder doesnt occur.

[@alward9901]

Hi Ivan. I would go to the injectors check for fuel . Pump timing out . Lots of cranking trying to clear air from feed lines . These are old school ideas . Take off fuel line to pump and manually gravity feed pump . But it all sounds like air in the system. Remember I’m ignoring all the electronic side of this problem. I may de completely wrong . I have 2 old school VW ‘s. A 1980 & 1992 still on the road . Love ❤️ you’re show 👍🇨🇦🇺🇸

[@alvydasurbonas8913]

its 7.5 bar for engine idle and sometimes you need to run it on easy start for a while to prime the injectors

[@Cowboy_Ash]

I owned 2004 Passat TDI station wagon for 11 years. I salute you for even accepting to work on this car. Great car when it works otherwise it’s so unnecessarily complicated in every way! Sold it at 89k miles because I wanted to stay sane.

[@paulsz6194]

I had a friend who had the same car, (Petrol engine)and had to have the whole dash removed to repair his A/C System , I can’t quite remember what the fault was ( refrigerant leak, perhaps?) , but even the Auto Eletrician who reapaired it even told my friend not to call him again if anything with the A/C goes wrong again, so it must have been a complex job!

[@rmx2rmx]

8:30 I think: 1. Bad timing. Disconnect camshaft sensor. It may start. 2. Actuation test are one afer one. If you do one you get button next. Similar in Launch. 15:30 Connect all pipes because that system watch MAF sensor even on starting. If you disconnect pipes you have no flow of air in MAF sensor !!! NEXT. Check timing - there are special timing tools to do it.

[@jensole2617]

The fuel coming in from the lift pump to the fuel filter is 8-10 psi. From there, the tandem pump raises the pressure more. At Idle, it's about 25 psi. At 2500 rpm, it's more like 100 psi, but it needs to be read with a dampened gauge, as it is very erratic pressure. The test point for the tandem pump on the arm that goes to the fuel return line. There is a plug with a copper washer on it.

[@SroUnique]

I had this exact problem on my passat b5.5 2001 1.9 tdi AVF, the fuel pump in the tank wasnt working and it turned out to be the relay thats under the steering wheel. Try spraying some kind of starting fluid into the intake and see if the car starts at all. so you're sure its fuel related problem

[@jessicav2031]

I'm not convinced the low pressure has sufficient flow. Perhaps there is a blockage? Clogged filter? Clog at the tank? It seems like it was a 'junk' vehicle that the guy bought cheap, perhaps it was sitting for a long time and developed growth in the fuel?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great guess, Jessica!

[@NoWr2Run]

INSPECTION STICKER WAS 2019.

[@markhb3346]

I agree , high pressure injection pumps need sufficient volume on the low pressure side or they’ll just cavitate . All the diesel systems I woke on won’t even fire the injectors unless it sees a threshold pressure of about 5000psi on the rail while cranking.

[@TractorWrangler01]

You're on the right track. There is air in the pump and in the lines leading to the injectors. With high compression on a diesel it's not going to feed fuel through the injectors even when they are wide open if there is an air pocket in there. It acts like a pneumatic spring in the fuel line. If the Pump isn't creating enough pressure to push it through it will just keep cycling. You may have to losen the connections to the injectors and let the air out untill the pump is fully primed and you stop seeing bubbles.

[@bbogdanmircea]

There is no pump and no rail, this is a PD.

[@d.d4184]

Get your oil sucker on the return fuel line after the filter. When you see fuel going into the sucker you know you have air out of the system. Usually with system's that have an in tank pump bleed out easy. The flow coming from the pump didn't look brilliant. What are the glow plugs like. Test light battery + if it lights when you touch the top of each glow plug they are in tacked. Have a look at the fuel rail pressure sensor.What's the fuel filter like.

[@Silent-Lucidity]

Thanks for giving me insight into this kids background. You are correct, I made an assumption based on only seeing this one video. I wish him all the best.

[@Beni_777]

I have a common rail, direct injected diesel with no lift pump at all. The high pressure pump does all the work sucking the fuel from the tank.

[@aldrinalmario1513]

Another interesting diagnosis video Ivan! That battery is tough as nails to still be cranking that much after numerous attempts. It kinda seems like theres still air in the system and that the injection pump timing is a bit off.. Anxiously waiting for the next part to see how it goes. Cheers!

[@reneneron2971]

Hmm…I also happened to change the timing belt and the crank position sensor is out of range. Don’t think the HP fuel pump magically failed while the engine was being rebuilt. Diesel injection timing controls everything on a diesel…entire combustion process depends on when and how much fuel is injected.

[@ErikTheVikingMechanic]

Simply the best engine out there. 1.9 TDI PD My 2004 Passat now with 117k is still going strong and pulls like a train. Amazing fuel economy nearly 800miles on 55-60L of diesel, simple and reliable.

[@zoidberg444]

Not uncommon to see 1.9 TDI's in Skodas or VW's in Eastern Europe that have gone round the clock in kilometres - 600,000 miles. They would rot out before the engine saw any signs of problems.

[@rkan2]

@@zoidberg444 Just bought an 2004 A6 C5 1.9 with 507k couple months back... According to service logs it has even been run on long life service intervals lol

[@robevans8625]

My bkd does 65mpg at 176kThe DMF has a rattle and the turbo is whining but the engine itself is bulletproof

[@CANlectric]

Try disconnecting cam sensor. It won't give injector pulse with incorrect timing corelliation between crank and cam.

[@htownblue11]

What a relevant case study to the times we live in Ivan. We have a “Fuel Supply Chain” issue to the engine “consumer”. Either the line has air trapped in it at a bend like a pea trap, the pump is toast, or the fuel line has become partially blocked by dirt maybe…..or even return line causing flow issue perhaps.

[@lucianlucian9911]

Hi. My first step would be to take some easy start, or any other flamable gas and pulverizing it into the intake, see if it starts to make sure that is a fuel problem, not a timing one. And yes, that engine has 3 stages of pressurizing fuel if i`m not mistaken: first a low pressure lift pump (2-3 bars), a tandem pump (vac/fuel pump-further pressurising up to 7-10 bars), and the last stage, each cylinder is fitted with an electromechanical injector/pump unit (actuated by the cam lobs and electrically controlled by the ECU)-feeded by the tandem pump-can generate up to 2000-2200 bars at full speed. So yeah, you need those 7-8 bars output from the tandem pump for that car to start. Also you need to check the wires from ECU to the injectors and if the camshaft was correctly installed. Cheers!

[@ecaparts]

Ivan said the customer confirmed that it would start on ether in the beginning of the video. But yes I would recheck that to make sure… I’m not too familiar with this injection system but I would expect the pressure to hold for at least a minute. Seems like some internal leak with the mechanical pump.

[@woodsontr]

I used a harbor freight hand vacuum pump on the return line at the HP pump to pull the air out. I still thought I would burn up my starter but once I got the air out of the lines, it started. 1999 TDI with ALH motor. Has no lift pump in this generation so the HP pump does it all. It ran great after this.

[@roadshowerun1770]

Your 30 psi on the "tandem pump" is probably good. The Bentley manual indicates the pressure at the test port should be 51 psi at 1500 rpm. Obviously if the car was running at fast idle the pressure would increase. I would take out the four glow plugs and test for compression. Cylinder pressure could be low. Getting a bang from a spray of brake cleaner doesn't mean it will combust diesel. A rebuild should have at least 400 psi. 275 is the wear limit minimum. I like the idea someone else had. Check the injector solenoids with an amp clamp. If it were me after checking the cylinders for pressure, I would put the car back together proper (double check the fuses). Has anyone checked the dip stick? The PD engine has a high pressure pump for each cylinder, if they are leaking (diesel) it will go to the oil pan...

[@oledagauflem600]

Check timing and has the injectors been removed? They have to be installed correct and the o-rings on the injectors must not be damaged when installing.And of course check that everything is connected correct.

[@jackb3232]

good low pressure pump fill cup in couple seconds .injector have common supply though brown wire and they are control though ground on each injector. amp clamp and scope on brown wire can show all 4 firing.

[@mag1vl]

Hello Ivan from Australia :) Part 2 Nooooooooo you left us hanging 🤣🤣

[@bbogdanmircea]

Omfg the legendary Passat B5.5! This car is one of the best made by VW here in Europe. Is it a TDI PD or with an injection pump? Sounds like no fuel to the injectors. You need a VCDS to get the real VW codes, OBD will give you only the general ones. It's a diesel so no injector fuel pressure no start. If it's a PD there is no HP Pump, only the tandem pump which lifts the pressure before each injector which is an independent pump. Yup that looks like a tandem pump to me, it is actuated by the cams. Then each injector is also actuated by the cams and produces around 2000 bar. It is one of the best designs for reliability, even if it can't go over EURO4 for emissions. Probably you need to rebuild the tandem or change the seals. Also they have a ball valve that won't hold the fuel if the tank is not full. I wrote as I was watching it. You need to study more about this unique TDI PD.

[@martinnikolov9999]

You can tell it is a PD by the look of the plastic valve cover. Secondary sign would be the fact there is no visible VE pump mounted to the side of the engine. Vcds, while preferable for vw cars, will also not connect while cranking. IMHO for this passat the older VE engines are far more reliable than the PD ones and have less design flaws, but of course a PD engine has greater efficiency than a VE one. In the end, if the technology was that great, they were gonna shoot for an update instead of adopting the common CR technology. Back to the topic: I’m wondering whether the engine has bad timing in the end with this position sensor code? One thing for sure, will wait for the development of the story. :)

[@ErikTheVikingMechanic]

I am so happy with my 2004 TDI PD Passat. It's the most reliable and economical car I've ever own, also very comfortable and great workhorse with a lot of power. Nearly 800 miles on a tank of Diesel.

[@plastbestikk]

The pumpedüze injectors ran through quite a few revisions, where the later ones was proven reliable. The worst design flaw with the VAG pd engines is the oil pump/balance shaft hex drive key. They fail on all engines!. Changed two ballance-shaft assemblies myself. This engine is way more responsive than newer commonrail version. Some tracktors even use PD injectors. If the HP-fuelpump on commonrail fails and throws its parts down the line, you know youre up for a nice cleaning job.

[@ianriggs]

@@ErikTheVikingMechanic that is awesome 😎. Most ppl say they have had problems with these cars

[@jasonmcnamara2079]

I knew very little about how these diesels worked and didn't really know what to do next so I cheated and read the other comments 😁; now I know much more 😉, what a great knowledge base to draw on.

[@lovetolearn5253]

My next step would try to find cranking fuel pressure spec on high side. then go after injector control/power. If all that checks out maybe timing and compression. It did sound good but doesn't mean its good. My guess would be fuel, injector power or control. I guess You could have a air restriction but unlikely. I always have a hard time guessing. I'm more hands on and have to be there. To me it sounds like a fuel problem but again I'm not there

[@marion1600]

These systems actually work without lift pump as well. Just takes a little longer to start. Also tandem pump should produce 7.5bar @2500rpm. Cranking pressure is 3.5bar if I remember correctly

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Uhhgg ...VW!! Hate working on those. Always frustrating for me! I know you'll have better luck than I would, lol! Looking forward top part 2! Just had a plate and screws installed on the busted bone in my hand. Typing is a real chore now. They tell me it'll heal fast, though. 8 more days before this cast comes off.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hope it feels like new once the cast comes off!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks buddy! Me too LOL.

[@pharezknights5467]

If the timing is on,It might be the gasket between the diesel pump and head or the person that adjusted the valves did them too tight and leaking through the injector possible, because I don't think the pump needs timing because the computer controls it, also check the cam shaft, I think it has 3 bolts that can be adjusted for the cam timing

[@cullenmiller8170]

I would be checking the tank and the fuel. Is there a strainer or anything in the tank? Also if they ran biofuel before there could be deposits plugging the system to cause fuel flow issues. You seem to have some pressure, but flow looks low. The fuel looked clean, but is there any evidence of algae or asphaltine in the tank? Also how is the compression since that starter and battery don't show any sign of slowing down?

[@sambirtwistle]

compression did seem low sounding. I had a piece of carbon build up lodge in an exhaust valve once and it sounded similar.

[@billziegmond4943]

Better man than I my friend. I agree with Eric O . No VW for me.

[@AD-T]

I think it’s air trapped , usually with diesels I would crack the lines going into the injectors after an event such as someone running it out of fuel and the high pressure pump is just sucking air while they crank and crank with no fuel in the tank . Your situation seems similar because he has no low pressure fuel causing the high pressure pump just pumping air instead of fuel .

[@iklp1983]

low side fuel pressure is too low.. it needs atleast 30psi

[@31terikennedy]

You're a trusting soul. You know the car has been tampered with. You're first move is visual. Remember the Jeep owner who forgot to reconnect the ckp?

[@Markb8608]

I have an mk5 5spd jetta tdi pumpe duse. With 375k original miles. I still get 42-45 mpg. Beautiful engine. That looks like the tandem pump.i will be curious as to what the spec and actual are at that fitting.

[@darioandrijasevic2804]

WARNING to all DIY: Do not ever measure the output pressure of a common rail pump without special equipment and safety precautions. (or any tipe of diesel direct injection pump for that matter). Ivan didn't measure pressure at the high pressure pump because this vehicle doesn't have one. Also, before working on a system, the no.1 step a person should take to ensure safety and quality should be thoroughly researching and understanding the system, something which seems to have been skipped in this case

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great points! I did some homework, but information was rather scarce on AllData. The car does have two pumps, a "lift" pump (

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics glad you still see this as fun! That'll take you a long way! Awaiting for part 2.

[@sambirtwistle]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics those high pressure fuel injectors when activated when out as making an "ear piercing" noise, combined with the ability to pierce skin. I think vw is goiing after good atomization!

[@DieselBricks]

Great first part, firstly who makes that battery, it's a champ for sure. Secondly something doesn't sound quite right to me about the way it cranks, sounds too fast. Might be the recording of course or just me being more used to the sound of the five cylinder. Time for coffee and part 2.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Ivan nice case study. Is there a cranking spec. For the high pressure pump or is it all relative to Cam rotation speed. I have heard of cam lobe wear because of where it’s located on the cam. Anyway looking forward to part 2 😊

[@craiggoodwin9704]

Well I don't know what I'd do. I can't wait to see what Ivan does. It's always a thrill to hear an engine fire up for the first time. Thanks for Sharing!

[@tomscott4723]

Give it a shot of carb cleaner and get it to start and see if it will clear out the air in the injectors?

[@spgoo1]

No start after rebuild, exactly what would happen if I tried!!! 😂

[@tipptop9]

It seems a timing issue to me, cam timing is adjustable by loosening the 3 bolts on the cam pulley. This is called 'torsion value' on VCDS. If you've no access to vcds then I would just adjust the cam timing little bit at a time until it starts. That would be my first port of call without knowing anything about what the guy 'rebuilt', only that he did a timing belt. If timing seems ok then I'd be looking at bleeding fuel system properly next.

[@alexmagnusson6177]

Does TDI PD not start at zero 'perfect factory timing'? Aligned with two lock pins, 3 cam bolts at the center? Too fiddly to know perfect cam angle after a rebuild

[@awd42]

Wow, finally a car I might possibly know more about than Ivan! ;) I'm just a "home-gamer" but I did a timing belt in my 2004 Jetta TDI (1.9 BEW, very similar to the BHW in this Passat) right after I bought it and have since done a suspension refresh and put a clutch in it. I learned a bunch from the TDIClub & MyTurboDiesel forums -- the factory service manual (Bentley) is a good resource but sometimes it's a bit terse, or occasionally even wrong! And unfortunately a lot of mechanics and even some VW dealers don't know how to work on these cars... Ivan may not have before now, but being inquisitive and willing to learn go a long way, so I'm confident he'll figure it out! This car is probably long since fixed before the video went up, but here's how I would diagnose it: - You've already checked fuel pressures; it should be more like 10 psi but that isn't the main problem here. 30 psi at the tandem pump while cranking seems fine. You _can_ activate the lift pump but it's via "Basic Settings": kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIu8e52Dg8uEY6s - I would scope cam & crank sensors, maybe at the ECM? (Note: VCDS will restart data after a couple seconds while cranking, so maybe that or a better scan tool would help too?) I'm not 100% sure but I believe the engine will run with default values with no cam signal, but will NOT run with no crank signal. I had a failing crank sensor that would feel like a random misfire while driving, and straight up kill the engine at idle. - Check for injector pulse at the connector on the head. If it's good there, it could still be a bad harness under the valve cover. - Verify timing *with the locking pins in the cam and crank pulleys*. You cannot "mark and pray" with these engines! - The cam pulley can be adjusted slightly, relative to the cam itself. There's a "torsion value" data PID which is usually recommended to set around -1 degrees (or whatever the pencil mark on your timing cover says, if you can still read it). If you aren't sure, the middle of the slot is a good starting point. Note that it will read 0 if it's too far out of range! - Is compression good? While you're at it, check on that #1 glow plug... (which isn't the problem here, but would be convenient then) - Others have mentioned possible improper injector installation, if they were removed during the rebuild. That's beyond my expertise but would be something to consider if the previous things didn't fix it. Good luck!

[@scope3autos756]

Hi Ivan, Even though the battery sounds good you may need to do a relative compression. (Reason for this coming up in a sec) But first I would check to see see if the connector on the side of the head to the injectors is correctly attached and locked in place. Get the scope out and check to see if you got injector pulse and current flow to injector 1. Or any injector they all share the same ground. If you haven no injector pulse make sure the connectors is 100% in correct on the a visual for wiring to them. Then check the cranking amps speed on the relative compression test and check to see if the it is cracking over faster than 250ms ( just measure one revolution) if it isn’t, the VW range are know for cutting the injectors and having a hissy fit if target spec is not met. That would be my go to next before anything else. Good luck!

[@scope3autos756]

Also be sure to check and double check that injector connector on the side of the head. I’ve had two of these come in with this problem and customers have had a go them selves and even the the connector looks and feels locked in place they haven’t been. I was quite stern with the last one and it popped into place and the car started right up. Customer and I was convinced it was locked in place.

[@roberthouston594]

The engine is a 1.9 TDI PD very reliable and simple engine capable of high mileage. The pump on the engine is only a lift pump and a vacuum pump for the brakes and usually will bleed very easily once the filter is bled. The engine sounds like it has low compression. I would check the timing first, this has to be spot on or it will not allow it to fire to protect the engine if the timing jumps. Also have the injector cam adjustment been set up with a dial test gauge after the engine rebuild and new injector o rings fitted? The diesel could be leaking past the o rings into the sump. The exhaust gas temperature sensor could be a problem on some cars if the EGT is too high it will not allow it to restart after it is switched off until it cools. European cars of this age didn't have exhaust gas temperature sensors, I assume this car has a DPF.

[@josephwash109]

I'm suspecting an issue with fuel injection timing. Since the engine was disassembled, it's likely that the high pressure pump was removed. That means the possibility exists that it was not reinstalled properly. I'm thinking along the lines that something may be installed 180 degrees out of time or something similar.

[@rkan2]

As Ivan himself commented, there are sort of 3 fuel pumps with this engine - lift, tandem and the injector/cam itself which creates the "high" pressure. Only the cam and lifters/runners that run the injectors matters. The tandem pump is just keyed to the cam.

[@aleksandrzinkevics1253]

potentially physical check if engine enable to run on alternative/easy start fuel,to rule out mechanical/timing issue.

[@michaelgleason4791]

I would've chased the P3008. Checked timing, unplugged the cam if that's a thing on these engines. Often the VW systems can go off of just the crank signal and have a 50/50 chance at starting.

[@crackpotfox]

I’m betting this is a fuel prime issue. My wife ran her Jetta tdi out of fuel and we had to bleed the injection pump and lines before it would start. Either that or he messed up the cam/pump/crank timing. These engines are supposedly very sensitive to timing.

[@wyattoneable]

I'm headed over to part two!

[@psdaengr911]

That's a 16 year old high mileage vehicle. I thought I saw old hoses that had been greased up with "dressing". I always suspect old rubber, especially hoses carrying petroleum products under pressure and even more so around heat. If a brake hose delaminates internally, it can interfere with fluid flow in both directions and often the fluid doesn't return (drop pressure back to ambient) when released. Could that be happening here?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Brake hose internal delamination is strictly a Chrysler phenomenon in my experience lol

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics interesting.. I'm going to try to keep track of this... I thought it was all makes an old brake hose could cause trouble internally.

[@kc360awareness]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I’ve had two Ford Escapes have internal brake hose failures. For what it’s worth. I think diesel guys see internal hose failure as a possibility. Again for what it’s worth.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@kc360awareness yeah Ford had a run of bad brake hoses as well... Usually external cracks

[@stupa55]

try to start it with starter fluid and see how it will behave. I would rather say it's missing a signal somewhere. for Vags VCDS all the way only.

[@luismzsant]

BHW 2.0. Might be timing. Or the injectors wiring feed, check the twist plug wire connection next to tandem pump and sensors might be installed incorectlly. Ask me how i know😁😁

[@mrjsv4935]

Neighbour Skoda Octavia diesel refused to start because of faulty ignition key, I guess the immobilizer didn't accept it. But I guess you would've noticed that immediatly, so perhaps not the case.

[@kevin9c1]

You don't need to bleed air out to get an accurate pressure reading. Pressure is pressure!

[@rmc5278]

i will place bet on pump timing is out .im not a mechanic just taking a punt 😆 good luck hope it gets started 👌. i had 1.9 pd engine in my passat and sold it to buy recovery truck still miss it , mpg actually used to go up the longer i drove it 😮 . Cost me £200 for whole car only needing a turbo 😆

[@devdhamija7585]

I think 8 psi on low pressure pump is low. I would fix that first and then go to high pressure diagnostics.

[@elipsonj]

Besides the rear pump, maybe it has a low pressure front pump that's not working..

[@somerandomguy3868]

I think I might have gone at it differently, not saying it's the right way, amp clamp on the battery, stick the cam and an injector wires, scope for good correlation and take it from there

[@arthurbolton8477]

connect a priming bulb to the port and suck it full of fuel before you screw the starter,

[@MrGaryjames1]

Silly question but are these injectors coded and if they are are they in the right holes? Ps I would still stick an extra few gallons in the tank for good measure.

[@IgorD33]

Fuel pump needs diesel for lubrication. Maybe it got damaged if it was not primed?

[@colejensen5812]

1. Who makes that battery because I am getting one. 2. What is the lift pump spec? The systems I am familiar with have a 50-60 psi lift pressure. Are these electro mechanical injectors or 100% mechanically actuated? Amp clamp around an injector just to check for actuation may not hurt.(if accessible) Cranking sounds normal(heard plenty of it) I don't think I would go down the camshaft timing road.

[@ronwade2206]

Yes, I pulled a wire out of the thing at the back, will that be a problem? Yaaeah, it can be...

[@justsumguy2u]

My next diagnostic step would be to trade it in on a Toyota

[@wcs1637]

Love your vids Ivan. Long time subscriber here from AZ who is literally about to drive to PA to have you diagnose a mystery P2097 code that no one here can figure out lol. Keep up the good work!!!

[@larrystephens7437]

Has the fuel filter been changed in the past 200K miles?

[@nomadforjustnow5236]

Easy start in intake would make draw the fuel through ......quick and dirty but effective lol

[@watfordbadshahscricketclub9730]

Definitely a PD engine. If the engine has been rebuilt. The Injectors have to go in a slight angle. If not this engine will not start. And the offset has to be pretty accurate. Just google PD Injector alignment, and you will get all the info. The next step, if the Fuel pressure is correct which i doubt, is check the injector loom. Cam lobes suffer alot on these engines due to bad maintenance. Also if the timing is off it will not start. Ivan i am pretty sure you will get to the bottom of this

[@donb1661]

Crank no start and the fuse to the fuel pump is not installed??? I'd be suspect of all work performed.

[@jeffsmith-ze6wb]

Just curious with only 200,000 miles why was there a need to rebuild the engine?? Just stumbled upon your channel and subscribed THANKS

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Tip of a glow plug snapped off and tore up a cylinder...it was gnarly lol

[@chrisc1623]

Do VW have a EVAP valve? maybe test that? almost sounds like it's open

[@HowToSaveMoneyOnCarRepairs]

An interesting Story and Very Telling...! My Engines Always Start, First Time after a Rebuild...! If, i was that Guys Customer..! I would be Very Unhappy...!🤔👿😇🤑

[@bobbydelamar606]

My son has a 2002 Golf diesel. Great engines. He is getting fuel in his oil, not exactly sure how yet..? It's smoking just a little.

[@2nickles647]

Leaking fuel injector.

[@bobbydelamar606]

@@2nickles647 That's what I keep telling him. Is there any other way? Pump o-ring or I've heard of a air line to the pump? Thank you

[@psdaengr911]

If it's a diesel, it's getting lighter oil in the oil and if it s a VW a little smoke is probably too little.

[@robpeabo509]

I was nearly shouting 30 psi is probably fine! the 100psi was at 4000RPM per the manual!!! there is fuel, presumably compression and with as many cranks as you applied, enough heat to account for the glow plugs even if they were not working, especially as it did not look like a cold day. I am swaying to one of the following: Injector timing is way out or the crank issue per the crank sensor DTC the ECU reported. Did you do a full system scan or an ECU/PCM scan only? Maybe a full scan will reveal more info? To quote Eric, "Modules tell on each other" or something similar.

[@robpeabo509]

I meant Cam, not Crank DTC. My bad.

[@Eurospec73]

This was really painful to watch! I would definitely Consider looking at the RPM gauge next time to see if that moves, which would indicate a faulty CPS sensor. Other than that I wish you the best on this start!

[@krama2940]

Spray ether in the throttle body to check if engine fires!!

[@chillybrit2334]

My next step would be a quick check of the physical timing, cam to crank - it's a "rebuilt" engine that has never run. Assume nothing is correct. Quick check (15 mins max) of the basics could save many hours at this point. After that, chase down injector pulse, power and ground to the injectors et. blah. Also, I'd suggest not making a habit out of bleeding dribs and drabs of diesel onto your gravel driveway, the stench never ever goes away. Waking up to the vague scent of horse manure in the morning... perfectly fine in a country setting. Living with the pervasive stench of an HGV wreckers yard outside the window.... divorce material. Happy wife, happy life. Say hi to the horses for me :D

[@mrautoservices7354]

Always enjoy watching!Great video.

[@jdtractorman7445]

The dinging is driving me insane. We took a Passat in on trade once at the dealership I worked at, what a turd.

[@Malcarper]

Another great video Ivan....... Please mute the door open dinger, in part 2 !

[@Cheepchipsable]

Is the cup holder in the upright position? 🤔 You might need to invert it since it's a European car...

[@simonedwards5401]

We’re the injectors touched as they have o rings these can draw in air if worn and is timing ok

[@nitrous07me]

That stater put in work that day 😅

[@ThatEEguy2818]

With all those rubber hoses, what are the chances the hp pump is connected backwards? Haha. I know nothing about diesels but those pressures would be way too low for GDI. Also, that pressure seems like it takes way too long to build. Would this indicate air is still in the system?

[@mechtechtools838]

Customer should have bought a 1994 Toyota Celica. Love, Scotty

[@mykofreder1682]

Guess, you will have to double check the work, timing, wrong cam, backwards cam, miswired, whatever can go wrong with a rebuild.

[@nhzxboi]

Computer needs to know engine temperature to know how much fuel to add? I sorta doubt that. I think engine temperature is more related to how much to 'not' pump in. Fuel is the 'idle' governing factor on diesel. There is no such thing as rich or lean as in a gas engine. Put the fuel in, it burns if things inside are hot enough. No specific need to know temperature of coolant.

[@aranhaydar9195]

I would inspect the injectors next :) and timing after that.

[@robertoruiz7069]

IF you shoot carb spray into the are inlet for ten seconds and it starts and runs that would eliminate valves timing compression elect.maybe? but most importantly it would make the guy feel better that he at least did most of the job right.JUST give him HOPE at this point.then i'd tell him go down and buy a pump at whatever store ,so that we can at least eliminate the fuel issue.Oh ya does' this thing have a start glow plug? i have no idea, my only experience is with caterpillar bulldozers 40 years ago.I'm just guessing fuel,but i KNOW you'll get to the bottom of this.Just give the guy some Hope.!!

[@pk6336158]

10 seconds might be too much for a diesel, 1 sec for the most, it would start to detonate and damage the rings, remember diesel run really high compression by 3/4 the stroke it would ignition while the piston is still on the compression stroke

[@zx8401ztv]

It all seems a bit limp to me lol. As the engine was taken apart, did the high pressure pump get damaged by a loose nut or semi blocked fuel output fitting? Did the tank pump just decide to go all limp for no reason? Just wait for the next episode of "SOAP" Sorry that was a silly american t,v series lol. But i enjoyed the sillyness :-D

[@eovdubsvw8743]

When you change the timing belt you have to lock the cam and the injection pump with special tools.

[@danielpantazescu7720]

No injection pump on this one, but, yes locking crank/camshaft is a must

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

How did a TDI escape the EPA and the crusher?

[@Pidroe]

My next step would be to call Ivan