WATER PROOF SHOWER MY WAY

[@Jerry-zz2eu]

Bob, thanks again for another awesome video. Your no nonsense, common sense approach has pushed me to really think about what I'm putting in and why. Keep up the good work. Also, I never thanked you for your reply on the pre-slope video, so thanks for that as well. Cheers.

[@StarrTile]

Absolutely, it's the reason I produce these videos, giving people options

[@holdernewtshesrearin5471]

Nice work, my man. I appreciate the redundancy of the plastic liner on subfloor combined with Redgard on slope bed. That is a 200% waterproof system! I appreciate it and I have done it that way myself and will always have that system in my toolbox should a particular project require it but I prefer to use just the one liquid waterproof membrane system such as Redgard etc on slope bed only for 95% of my showers. I have full confidence in the system and it has never failed me. But like you have mentioned, we use the skills and systems and combinations thereof as required. If I ever do a shower in a 5 million dollar mansion that has an art room full of original Renoir paintings beneath that shower, you can bet I'll be doing a combo like you've done here! Cheers bro. Enjoy your vacation!

[@T.E.P..]

another stellar vid like usual ... what a gift you have given with your awesome channel and a ton of experience. your clients must be absolutely delighted to have you work on their homes.

[@cyclopathic998]

Thank you Bob for wonderful explanation!

[@AJourneyOfYourSoul]

This seems like a great way for a diyer. Redundancy with the liner, the liner/mortar bed/liquid membrane is very forgiving, and it is done in smaller steps. A diyer won’t be nearly as good when it comes to level/straight/plumb, but this way will handle it much better than trying to lay a fleece membrane on an out of wack surface. I know everyone likes to get up in arms and criticize, but a shower built like this will last many, many decades, a lifetime even.

[@StarrTile]

Indeed 💪✌👍

[@monicashubert]

Recently stumbled on your channel, so helpful! Love seeing your preferred method for waterproofing.

[@mchlarevalo]

Thanks Bob for putting out these videos, I was able to convert my bathtub to full tile shower with your channel. If I was a rich man I would send you a million dollars!

[@frankcatrini4816]

hey bob, fellow tiler here in fla. been doing tile full time since 81 and doing basically the same in my showers. in the past year i only use foam boards, my fav is the sentinel boards from floor and decor . i use them mainly because im just getting too old to be lifting durock and i dont have to redguard main walls. the only difference i see is that i use mesh netting in all my corners and use it to connect the wall boards to dry pack, also around curb, etc, then i use thinset to cover mesh tape. i then waterproof over all that thin setted mesh tape and waterproof the netting on wall seams, then waterproof dry pack. so when im done the wall boards and dry pack is connected and waterproofed with thin setted tape first... so why do you leave that gap between dry pack and wall boards?

[@StarrTile]

The reason for raising the wallboard is to keep it from wicking up water or moisture, of course with foam board like you use there would be no issue

[@fctazz]

@@StarrTile makes sense...you know a couple years ago I said I would never buy the new, expensive products but have succumbed. I always liked the 4x8 sheets of durock but cannot lift them as I work alone (been done with the helper thing for a few years and love it) but now with the foam I can lift a 4x8 easily and less tape joints..I also now use the light weight thinset too. Laticrete makes 2 light versions and they are actually terrific. I can spread a bit more across my rows and it stays tacky, so I don't feel like I'm pressed for time and one bag is like 30lbs....yes they are really expensive but I simply add them into my price and if it cost me a job, so be it , but the funny thing is I'm busier than ever....one thing though is I'm going to stick with traditional liners and 3 piece drains , no schluter systems and the main reason is I just don't like that thin setting the kerdi, especially all the banding, that just doesn't look good imo, to many potential faults...take care

[@gatoborracho4572]

Another great video...like always 👍

[@StarrTile]

Thank you sir

[@gatoborracho4572]

@@StarrTile Keep the great work 👍 Mr... One of the best channels on what you do...

[@babyjanepad2596]

Amazing and informative video. Taking everything to heart!

[@smileycamel5635]

Which brand blade do you recommend for porcelain tile?...Thank you, I have learned so much from your videos!

[@ParrotEyesVideo]

Thanks for your videos and the knowledge you share. If I may make a suggestion, please avoid sped up video unless the camera is on a fixed tripod. The head mounted camera video is difficult to watch and eventually causes slight nausea. Otherwise, good job and carry on.

[@milkaziyaaa3393]

You always contribute a lot to us,, we very much appreciated that truly, the content is top notch, the editing is golden and the thumbnail is great of course just like any other

[@philadelsylver2567]

thank you came from a family post, I'm here to support and grow ur channel biggg 🥳🥳, i want to get the prize too

[@billb.4901]

I have a question though. I just recently watched a video by stud pack on KZbin, where they are tearing out a shower that’s at least 50 or 60 years old, built with roofing felt in the bottom and when they tore it out there had been very few leaks, so I am very leery of the new systems.

[@StarrTile]

And conversely I tore out a shower from the 1960s years ago, lead shower pan, old fashioned way... The subfloor below it was 5/8 ply that had rotted through two almost paper thin, you could see inside the garage... I had to replace the whole floor. The moral of that story is operator malfunction in any type of Building Construction is a real thing

[@chadharrigan68]

What's up with the old as mobi was a minnow circular drain.....Also the topical non traditional 3pc set up doesn't due so well with marble or non-vitreous products on shower pan installs... Even if it's been sealed..... Without the traditional draining of the 3pc set up water doesn't & can't migrate dowards to the drain weep holes to dry out the marble or other non-vitreous products & is absorbed until it drys out topically.....Other products like porcelain mosaic mesh & creamics shed the water & not absorb it so doesn't get noticed & works just fine with bonding flange & 3pc pan set ups that have the top layer of the pan 100% covered in elastomeric/liquid WP....Vitreous,semi & non products make a significant difference on what type of shower pan system needs to be built!!!....

[@StarrTile]

It is extremely rare that I'm using marble tile on a shower floor nowadays... but I have gone on many consultations where the tile guy used a marble mosaic that was staining around the drain area and he used the water in water out system.... You do understand even with that system your pan is saturated 100% due to capillary action, excess may drain out but never all of it. As far as the drain, it is one of my favorites by Oatey, durable stainless steel with small grates instead of the cheesy aluminum with large grates. Apparently you don't watch my channel or you know I set my drain tiles a tad higher with taper cuts for positive water flow...can't do that easily with square drains. But in the end it's my customers choice ✔

[@btomas225]

@@StarrTile : You clearly don't understand capillary action. Yes, water gets drawn into crevices in the mortar bed, however, once the bed is saturated (a band of saturation will develop to the right and left of the leak, following the slope of the bed) water eventually, via gravity, migrates back to the lower surface. It doesn't stay in the bed forever. It's physics.

[@StarrTile]

@btomas225 doesn't matter now, we do sealed systems so no water sees the mortar...moot issue

[@BigZaddy2112]

Hello! In your 5 part series, where do I purchase the Quartz shower curb topper? Thanks

[@StarrTile]

Floor & Decor If you don't have one where you live then you could go to the stand-alone tile store

[@BigZaddy2112]

How close is the mortar to the threads of the drain? Or, are you being extremely cautious and keeping mortar away from the threads in addition to away from the weep holes and tops of the bolts? Also, you suggest the mortar be 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" thick at the drain, is that measuring from the top of the drain ( stainless steel thickness ) or below it? Thank YOU!!!

[@StarrTile]

I'm not sure what you're asking, the weep holes and everything under the top of the drain is irrelevant when you waterproof the surface. And yes the measurement is slightly below the top of the drain cap... so that 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 would be the thickness of the mortar and not the top of drain.

[@patrickchen623]

almost 100k subscribers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@StarrTile]

Yes...in July.... and I'll be doing $1,000 giveaway

[@linsgaps9558]

goodluck all, here for the 101k subs list

[@paulness8352]

Polyurethane is a man-made product, just like silicone, thinset, tile, etc. Think you trying to say its not the best oroduct to use in this application. Good info to know, one thing i recommend emphasizing is prior to applying the silicone, the area needs to be really clean and free of dust or debris, otheewise it wont adhere properly. Thanks foe the info.

[@JessicaCargill1]

i soon can do this work by my self by time i am done watching all your videos lol lol

[@StarrTile]

🤣🤣🤣

[@carlosv567]

How much mud have to be in inches tall on the sides? How high should I start.

[@StarrTile]

Usually has to do with how big or small the shower is but generally about an inch to an inch and a half at the drain and then going to the perimeter 1/4 inch per foot

[@Zorlig]

Could you explain why the PVC liner goes down but then there is the second water proofing layer on top? My shower is being done now and their layering was the same but the red guard failed. What is the downside of that?

[@StarrTile]

CYA.... you could probably do without the liner but I'm not willing to let go of that step

[@StarrTile]

Also I don't know what you mean by the Red Guard failed, there's always operator malfunction in play

[@Zorlig]

@@StarrTile thanks for the reply. I think they put it down too thick and it's all cracked so I can see through it in spots. I think they are going to try and convince me that it's fine.

[@OGCJ10]

@@Zorlig so what ended up happening ?

[@Zorlig]

@@OGCJ10 they redid the floor. It's lined up with the walls now too. Got the shower last week!

[@samdaniel5703]

Which thinset do you prefer to use or does it matter which thinset is the best preferred

[@StarrTile]

Normally thinset is just a matter of preference, I have been using what Home Depot sells....Versabond, from day 1 without any issues

[@samdaniel5703]

@@StarrTile thank you

[@timthetoolman9659]

outstanding end result of that shower

[@StarrTile]

Much appreciated

[@ChrisXCXCX]

You got that wallboard pretty high up do you just float the tile?

[@Graingwa]

Bob Doyle is a legend Starr tile!

[@yukonheart]

Seems to me When you perform you perimeter screed on the long axis you have the middle the same height as the end. That actually should be lower than the end. ANy waiter puddling on the long end will then make its way down

[@Tako2e]

Great Explanation Brother!

[@StarrTile]

Thank yiu sir 💪

[@thebulge8961]

If your walls never touch your pan and that gap is that way, what happens to your grout or caulking between each? Wouldn't the excess water constantly being there wash it out? I guess I missed that part? If that gap is filled with mortar wouldn't it just be constantly soaked and holding water eventually destroying the mortar? Also what if you do that wall gap method and have mosaics to put on the entire wall?

[@StarrTile]

The Gap is specifically there so water never wicks up the wall board, to fill that Gap with anything would be counterproductive, especially mortar or thinset... It would be extremely off-chance that water would ever get to that gap, and it would still have air in it and allow any water to dissipate but I don't see that happening with water shedding off of your wall tile down to the floor and into the drain. Tile on floor set close to edge inside the gap, then grouted, the wall tile set overlapping floor then grouted.. Simple

[@Someguysayingstuff]

I am curious what to do to fill that void from the shower pan to where the walls start. Did you run the floor tile underneath that and then the large format tile sit on top of that, thus covering that gap on the bottom all the way around?

[@StarrTile]

Yes

[@wernakiljorr5536]

i like the giveaway series, you should do more please and congratulation on reaching 1000000, now you will received more sponsorship deals

[@valeriehayes422]

what model of oatey drain do you use?

[@StarrTile]

There are only two types that Home Depot sells, one of them is like 12 bucks and the other one is 28 because it has a stainless steel grate oh, that's the one I would prefer

[@ryanhensley146]

Hi Bob. Do you put the quartz curb top on first before you tile the shower?

[@StarrTile]

Generally no...I do nearly all the shower tile and curbtop is pretty much last

[@sprodduturi77]

Hello Bob. Did you do any linear drain videos. What are your thoughts on the linear drain vs point drain?

[@StarrTile]

I like them and I usually use those on curbless showers... I think I only have maybe two videos... Builsing Shower in Condo is one

[@sprodduturi77]

@@StarrTile Thank you Bob I will check it out. Thank you for makin wonderful videos. You inspired many people like me

[@richardhaney7131]

I live in a house that was built 12 years ago. I never got a good look at the plumbing until things started falling apart, looks like the plumbers was drunk that did the work on this house.

[@StarrTile]

Happens more often than you think

[@rezzemae3144]

Thanks for another great video

[@kevinfreyre7736]

Not a tiler, just a guy who likes to learn. Is adding the PVC liner just for extra peace of mind? If everything gets waterproofed with red guard, no water should even touch the liner correct?

[@StarrTile]

Force of habit..true nothing will get through waterproofing, but it's like a warranty that *IF* I messed up that there's a redundancy.. Kind of like that feeling you have when you don't have your seatbelt on, you don't anticipate an accident but you feel weird not prepared for it

[@kevinfreyre7736]

@@StarrTile Okay. Thanks for helping me understand. Just wanted to say I'm a big fan of the way you go about doing things. I am a big proponent of using logical thinking first and foremost in anything.

[@jeremi7214]

Great video!

[@hanskietimothy2418]

Nice

[@quadry99]

How do you float the curb like that?

[@StarrTile]

It's not floated, it's buttered

[@timbrown500]

When did you start doing tile what age?

[@StarrTile]

37-38ish

[@wasntme3651]

I use a wood and a metal float. I haven’t seen many people on the Tube use wood floats. Every company I ever worked for used them. Just sayin 👍🏼

[@StarrTile]

Back in the day I used wood floats...but I beat up tools so I stopped. Plus they tend to pull up mortar if not cleaned constantly.

[@jdmartin2984]

Mag float does pull up less mortar than a wood float but the wood float has more surface. If mortar is sticking during a dry pack it Is to wet most likely.

[@haydndixon7070]

"I've subscribed" goodluck to all here

[@bertoshovlog4923]

Nice result ilove it

[@rechie973]

Your the man nice

[@mram7715]

Sir, I’m curious as to your input on the tile coaches red guard fail video he just posted. Wondering your thoughts as to why it failed. Scared some of us diy’ers as to the reliability of the product. Thanks again for the vid 👍🏽🇺🇸

[@natemartinez4595]

Moral of that video is maintain your drain systems and dont let your shower flood, redgard or ardex or hydroban notwithstanding

[@StarrTile]

My take on it is that Isaac follows directions to the letter and that usually becomes his failure... critical thinking voided is never GOOD, we are responsible for our work, not the manufacture ( fake ) warranty. First of all he didn't let his mortar pan cure properly for at least 3 days, so the moisture content combined with his propensity to slather too much redgard was the failure... You could have the best products in the world but operator malfunction is real.

[@mram7715]

@@StarrTile thanks. I as many appreciate the feedback.

[@k.d.8924]

Redguard will crack in the drying process if applied too thick. I always lean to the side of thinner applications and more of them. Coat a scrap piece of wallboard same time as your substrate, and when you think you're done, peel off the scrap and measure with calipers.

[@thebulge8961]

How does it feel knowing you spent 3 days on building and waterproofing with only a laborers warranty before being able to tile anything? 1 day of a 5+ year warranty shower system build, and less work and I'm already tiling the walls on day 3. Prehistoric stuff here. But you're doing what you love so gotta respect the passion!

[@holdernewtshesrearin5471]

Jaime B - you're referring to one of the sheet membrane water RESISTANT systems? Or one of the liquid water PROOF membrane systems? I ONLY use LWM systems, apply 6 to 9 coats on the shower floor/pan and perform an overnight leak down test and begin laying tile on the morning of or by noon atleast of the 2nd day from the point of applying the 1st coat. Sheet membrane systems are 1 day faster but they will never be a ONE PIECE WATER PROOF SYSTEM nor will they ever be water PROOF. The peace of mind the LWMS gives me is well worth an extra day to day and a half on a job. Been using it for 15 years or more, have done perhaps 100 showers and have NEVER had a failure of any kind.

[@thebulge8961]

I was refering to Wedi/Hydro-Blok/HydroBan Board. The board systems are solid and haven't had a problem in our bathroom since, and I have access behind t hardware wall in a separate closet. A lot quicker and still get that 10 year warranty.

[@deeniehwalie2844]

You guys are the best

[@5012409898]

So on the drain part there is no need to make the drain flush with the floor cutting at a 45 and all that you can just cut a hole and screw it down to the subfloor where it's up about an 8th of an in that's ok? I'm not sure what you mean about the whole weep hole thing is going away? Love your videos bro just not following the end about the drain...?

[@StarrTile]

No...you need the girth of mortar around drain.... If I'm understanding your question correctly

[@5012409898]

Yes that's kinda what I was asking but more about placing the drain on the subfloor if it still needs to be flush?

[@kevinkolinen6181]

What keeps water from going under your mortar bed around the perimeter?

[@kevinkolinen6181]

That your Achilles heel right there. Big failure!

[@kevinkolinen6181]

Especially in a fully sealed system like you are trying to achieve, why not band that corner perimeter, then redguard? Seams your mish mashing two completely different systems here.

[@StarrTile]

@@kevinkolinen6181 the perimeter has the waterproofer up against it, did you not see the 24 hour flood test ? And yes, I mix materials all the time, depending on application.... Obviously you are new to my channel

[@kevinkolinen6181]

@@StarrTile what do you mean it’s up against it?

[@StarrTile]

@@kevinkolinen6181 watch my videos, specifically the whole last four weeks where I showed a complete shower build in five different stages.. My waterproofer is brushed on at the transition of the mortar bed and pan liner including the bottom of the wall board...bulletproof... As I already mentioned before the 24-hour flood test on that video shows that it works, not to me, for other people...I already KNOW it works

[@JaySean777]

Did you add a pre slope underneath the liner? I know there is a debate there for you. I do a pre slope underneath my liner. Just curious

[@StarrTile]

There is no need for pre slope with a sealed system. No water should ever get to the mortar bed.

[@danielwaldrip]

Someone didn't watch the end of the video.

[@JaySean777]

@@StarrTile thanks for the response

[@fernandoalvarez4496]

Why do you have to add regard on pan mortar if there's a leak doesn't it absorb on mortar bed and out weep holes

[@StarrTile]

@@fernandoalvarez4496 assuming that the slope on the pan and the weep holes actually kick in which there is no evidence of, then ok.... But we are doing things different now or at least I am. Look up sealed system which basically makes the whole idea of a preslope and weep holes obsolete

[@daltonlopez4623]

Hey man how much water per bag of sand mix do you use? The directions come out way too loose like a slurry.

[@StarrTile]

Approx 4 full sponge full... One day I'll do a PROPER measurement, but 4 per bag is all I can tell you.

[@steadyyalwaysreadyy4672]

hello, thank you and i hope i can join this giveaway 1000

[@bigdogg9644]

I’m glad Australian standards don’t require those “pan liners”. Most useless things I’ve ever seen😂

[@StarrTile]

Agreed... with the kind of building construction we have here in the US it's a lot different than 80% of the world