Why I Remove The Cab To Repair 3.5L Eco Boost Turbo Charger Coolant Leaks (F150 & Expedition)

Reasons, in detail, that I remove the cab to repair coolant leaks from the Turbo Chargers on a 3.5L Eco Boost. The most common leak on a 3.5L eco boost is the coolant fittings for the Turbo Chargers. Since this is such a common problem I decided to make this video about how I perform the repair process and the tips/tricks I’ve learned about this job over the years. Hope this video helped!
Thanks for watching!
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[@dustin9035]

Replace battery: CAB OFF Oil change: CAB OFF Wiper blade replacement: CAB OFF Vacuum carpet: CAB OFF Multi point inspection: CAB OFF Road test: REMOVE CAB FIRST! Love it!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Easiest way to do it haha

[@The2Time4792]

Its the only way to do it

[@MrGP-qk8rc]

Mobile Mechanic here. I had a client who had this same issue. Once I saw your video on how to do it, I told the client that I was declining to do that job. Way too much work. But I see how removing the cab makes a world of difference. Great video and keep em coming! Subscribed and like your videos!

[@michaelchan8915]

I couldn't agree more. After doing HUNDREDS of cam phasers on F-150s, Expeditions and Navigators, yeah I'm pulling the cab/body to gain unlimited access to said components. Pulling cabs is something I've been used to, since changing head gaskets on the early 5.4s of 1997 to 2003 model year F-150s, to head gaskets, EGR and oil coolers on 6.0s on the Super Duty trucks as well as engine replacements on just about every truck from those model years to present. As for coolant leaks being common on these 3.5 turbos, I couldn't agree more. When I get into one of these, BOTH turbos get ALL coolant lines and fittings as well as oil supply and return. There's no other way about it, the turbos are coming out in order to do the repair correctly, so they get all new hardware and gaskets along with all the lines and fittings. A job like this is NOT one I feel inspired about having to go back in a second time shortly after. GOOD JOB!!!

[@epf6539]

What's the procedure for recharging the AC.... I hope vacuum are pulled ...just had mine done cam phasers...didn't look like dryer was changed....

[@nathansmith5282]

the fact this channel only has 8k is criminal. Phenomenal work, incredibly inspiring thank you!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you!!!

[@stevenmestas8238]

Gotta say, I love the delivery man. Didn't even edit yourself, mowed right thru it lol super helpful for us newbies

[@sofistk8ddd1]

I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8 mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections. I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx. Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking, closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.

[@ericmartinez4053]

Liked and subscribed. My 2017 3.5L F150 is with my mechanic right now because of a coolant leak. I was pretty sure it was going to be the turbo fittings, but I guess I dodged a bullet (for now). Whatever the case, it's remarkable that you are able to get the cab off in such short time. I'm shocked (and impressed)! But if you're able to get that off in 45 minutes, it makes great sense that it's a better idea than spending hours trying to reach those fittings and clips. And it makes sense that with the cab off, you can really analyze everything up close. Nicely done!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you!!

[@michaelgood1791]

Congrats on teaching the level of Senior Master Ford Tech. I am an Asset Grad. Thag is a huge achievement to become a senior master.

[@michaeleccher4068]

Thanks dude. This is all really helpful coming from a pro. I'm working on a flex, but all of this still applies. I'm super grateful. I know this quick video will save me a bunch down the line!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you, Glad to hear!

[@StumpyVanLife]

Excellent video! I have been a tech on and off for over 30 years and I have learned a few things from your videos. It's always good to see how other tech's are doing things. You got a new subscriber!

[@Bradmopar]

If it’s a design flaw it’s because they wanted to be cheaper and or lighter weight. When I worked on class 8 trucks a engine manufacture had some plastic coolant pipes that leaked or broke a lot. They eventually went back to metal so they didn’t have to spend so much on warranty replacing them. Great videos thanks for your work!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you!!

[@oldgreen100]

*Cough cough* Detroit *Cough*

[@PDPDSO]

Great explanation of the problem!! My 2015 Expedition had both turbos leak. First one at 70,000 and the second at 85,000 miles. Luckily both were covered under the extended warranty. Although the Ford dealer initially tried to blame the leak on a cracked coolant reservoir tank (which of course wasn't covered under the warranty.)

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you! Glad to hear it was covered!

[@8gomerpyle22]

Hey, they took a shot!

[@jamesguralski5156]

That why I call them Steelerships!

[@stevestadnik9206]

Up in the rust belt, cab offs can be problematic. One seized bolt in cab can ruin your day!

[@gojudude]

That's exactly what I do, and exactly why I do it. Cab's gravy, don't have to take the vacuum pump off of B1, unless it's leaking then they get one of those too. All lines, all fittings, and every gasket that's involved. Don't forget the stretchy belt ;) I've laid across the top for those back fittings 1 time, pulled the cab ever since. You're correct about the eye opener, no matter who walks in and see's it LOL. Good job young man, even though I don't need to, I'm subscribed.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you!!!!

[@bdjramfan]

You guys do a great job. Thanks for taking the time.

[@SamB-ck5pc]

Great video. I love your honesty! Thanks.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you!

[@ironmike742]

I also work for Ford and do these repairs. I will definitely say that it is not a bad design when 99% of the ones I repair have over 90,000 miles on them. I'd say that it's normal wear and tear. An o-ring on anything is only going to last so long with heat because the o-ring gets flattened out. Most vehicle owners don't do their maintenance like they should. The coolant doesn't get changed and corrosion starts to happen and the metal lines start to rust. The customer needs to get fixed and what I mean by that is the customer needs to do their maintenance even sooner with an EcoBoost engine. Other than that great video. I also replace the same gaskets, fittings and lines as you do.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thanks man! What I mean by bad design is the quick connect fittings. I think if they would have used just a traditional o ring with a bolt instead of the quick connect fittings then they wouldn’t have so many leaks.

[@ToGrimmToWin]

90,000 isn't a lot. Maybe at 200,000 miles but when a truck is 11 years all with 120,000 miles on it and still sells for close to 20,000 usd that's bs

[@ironmike742]

@@ToGrimmToWin the way vehicles are made nowadays 90 to 100,000 is alot. Most of the ones that go out people neglect the vehicle. People don't do their maintenance

[@ToGrimmToWin]

@@ironmike742 no it's not. 200,000 plus is a lot. I can't count how many I've owned or seen with well over 200,000 miles on them. even ones people neglected the crap out of and I was astonished it hadn't blown up.

[@kirkcardoso6137]

@@ToGrimmToWin I've got 3 Ford motors with or close to 300,000 miles. A 93 f250 5.8L 310,000 original everything. A 98 ranger 3.0L almost 300k orginal everything, 04 f150 5.4L 278,000

[@123Vid1]

Great videos, very helpful. I have a 2013 Ford f150 3.5 with 123,000 miles & would love to pull the cab off this winter & replace all the fittings & lines you talk about. The next time you have to pull a cab off I’d love to see a video for that. Keep up the great work. Thanks

[@123Vid1]

I found it, you already made that vid. Thx again.

[@adammiller8415]

Another good reason to remove cabs on some of these more in depth repairs is that your risking less damage to the customers vehicles. No risk of dropping a tool or part on there fenders or other part and damaging it

[@FlyingWrenches13]

You get a Better quality of repair when the cab is off in my opinion. I feel like I can see everything and make sure that everything is right.

[@adammiller8415]

@@FlyingWrenches13 I agree totally. Think cab is much better for a lot of repairs. Wasn’t disagreeing. I do a lot of diesel cab off that other shops do cab on

[@gregkistner1955]

This why labor rates keep going up! Poor designing from the manufacturer in order to save a buck.

[@Juice-iv5jx]

I was working with my shop lead on a Navigator with this issue. The customer wanted us to replace the turbos while it was off. That C clip that you mention at 3:30 is an absolute pain in the ass. I was all up in there with a pick, a mirror, and a flashlight for a good 40min trying to get that clip off.

[@carsonwashburn1]

I’ll be tackling my manifolds on my 3.5 EcoBoost in the next couple weeks and you make a great argument for pulling the cab… but I have nowhere with a lift. Maybe I’ll tackle it with the cab on, and if my coolant fittings leak I will take it somewhere and rent a lift simply to change out my coolant lines and fittings.

[@rn2cro03]

Great info...taking the cab off sounds much easier to me.

[@pseudosmith9945]

Also.. do a quick vid on how you (as someone with a lot of experience at doing so) removes various cabs quickly and safely.. again.. great vids.. looking forward to watching much more of your content.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

I’ll try to record the next one I pull and do a video on it. Just didn’t think very many people would want to know considering most people don’t have a lift at home.

[@pseudosmith9945]

@@FlyingWrenches13 i can see what you're saying.. still think it would be a great vid though.. i know how it is coming up with content and just thought it'd be something to scratch off the list of things you can upload.. i do know a lot of guys getting a basic lift at their home these days.. I've had my Rotary for many years now.. I'm an A.S.E Master/ Diagnostician with well over 35 years professional experience.. i take younger guys under my wing as much as i can and i can tell you that a lot of them watch KZbin vids on vehicle repair (and I'm going to turn them on to your channel) and seeing an intelligent, articulate and skilled young man such as yourself showing them tricks that you've learned gives them the confidence they need to attack repairs (like what you and I've done) at their job.... i learned a few things watching a couple of your vids already myself.. i always tell people that like the saying goes.. a mind is like a parachute in that it works best when it's open.. meaning you can learn things from anybody.. keep up the great work young man.. i hope things take off for you.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thanks man. Means a lot. I’ll keep your video suggestion in mind.

[@brendanroney]

Can you do a video on how to remove the cab? Great videos, keep up the work!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you! Got one in the works.

[@amdjmmdjm3624]

great job👍🏻

[@themaclakuss2026]

Keep it consistent, the subscribers will come as you grow your video quantity and humor in your videos.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thanks man. I try to just be natural straight forward and honest. Staying consistent on the videos is the hardest part when you have a full time job and do all the editing yourself.

[@themaclakuss2026]

@@FlyingWrenches13 I hear ya, you need a camera man to follow you around and a lapel mic on. Lol, that would solve it. My 2019 F-150 5.0 threw p0012 a couple months ago, I watched your video with the front of the engine apart and my stomach dropped.... I am going to replace both VCT Solenoids on bank 1 and cross my fingers. Do you have any suggestions or words of wisdom from a master technician. 🙏

[@FlyingWrenches13]

You can try changing your oil before you buy solenoids for it. That sometimes will help. If that doesn’t then throw the solenoids in it. It’s not too bad. Even someone who has never done one could probably have it done in an hour or so. I just got a lapel mic so I’m gonna try to start using it.

[@themaclakuss2026]

@@FlyingWrenches13 YES, THANK YOU!!!! I am planning on a oil change tomorrow, we already did one oil change 4,000 miles ago My dad and I are going to take your advice on changing it every 5k vs 10k like we were going to do before watching your Phaser video. I have another question and I really appreciate your time, Does not changing your oil every 5k "break" the Phasers? Or just make them mucked up and not function properly where the only thing you can do is tear it open and replace them/clean them? Once again we really appreciate your time.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

No problem man. Not changing your oil really more than anything just ends up blocking the already tiny oil passages that go through the cam/head. So when that happens your phaser gets starved of oil and in return stops working and all kind of crazy stuff starts happening.

[@mikimiki195]

Great video 👍🏻

[@johnnyhoward7337]

Love the content

[@4ReelFishing]

Thank you

[@TxGuitarPlayer]

I appreciate you brother

[@FlatlineLancer]

Love your videos, thank you. Could you do one on the cab removal of a 2018+ expedition?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Have one coming out today on the F-150’s. Real similar to the expeditions.

[@goodvibes7104]

Brought my 2015 Transit 3.5 eco to the mechanic for a slow coolant leak somewhere. He told me one of my rear turbo lines has condensation on it and is prob causing the slow coolant leak. He told me unfortunately it was going to be roughly 8 hrs labor to get to and would cost around 1300 to replace all the lines. I do have 304k miles on the van.

[@atvtinker01]

I had bought a new 2011 F250 SuperDuty had asked to have the bigger alternator added and was shocked when I found out they had to pull the cab to do it. But when I talked to the head mechanic and he said it took only 30 to 45 minutes to do it, I told them I wanted to see it done. It was a lot easier than I thought and could see why they do it so much now.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

So the cabs are very easy to pull off on all these ford trucks. That said, I want to be very clear that you do not and should not pull the cab to put an alternator on a F250. I’m not real sure why they would have done it that way.

[@atvtinker01]

@@FlyingWrenches13 I agree that it might not have been necessary, but it really took them no time and looked way easier than laying over the grill to do it.

[@dadboddamien]

Mine is doing this currently. Pretty sure it's the turbo coolant lines. Unfortunately I have had bad experiences with the service departments at both dealers near me so I'm shopping around for one that won't sit on my vehicle for a week before they even get started because I can't be without my vehicle that long

[@brianparker6294]

Gonna try this in my back yard

[@MobileFordTechJosh]

Those are Jiffy Tight fittings there’s a special disconnect tool for those lines.

[@pseudosmith9945]

Might want to center brace that hutch brother.. looks like it's bowing in the middle some.. unless it's just camera weirdness.. great video young man.. you really know your stuff.. just subscribed, liked and sharing your vids around... 👍

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thanks man I really appreciate it! Never noticed that before but I’ll look at it when I get back to work.

[@pseudosmith9945]

@@FlyingWrenches13 again.. it could be just camera voodoo.. but just in case.. 👍

[@dougfzrr]

It is possible to get the rear coolant fittings out without remove the cab...or intake (depending on mitt size). Not all of us have a hoist...just did my manifolds and found that rather than picking the clip out on the back fittings I just spun the fitting out with the pipe in the fitting. Lube up new fitting and snap it on the pipe. Stubby wrench did the trick. Wish I had a hoist...

[@WurledPeas]

I guess I got lucky when I bought my mom her 06 Navigator. It’s got 130k+ on it now and hasn’t given me a lick of trouble. I don’t have a lift to take the body off and doing that shit on your back in the gravel is a bummer. Seeing these twin turbo sixes make me appreciate how easy everything on my 96 Super Duty diesel is.

[@steveprs]

I wonder if the new Tundra twin turbo will have the same issue

[@live_your_best_life_8]

Hi Mason, do you have a video on coolant flush for either an F150 / Expedition, 3.5 Turbo?

[@user-my6mn3hy7j]

Do they make aftermarket fittings?For this problem that are not quick release so what will last longer

[@brianburkett7243]

Do you ever get the opportunity to do major repairs on Transit Van with ecoboost? Id love to see a video on that.

[@jason91205]

Mayson, I am in north ga. I need both sides broken Exhaust studs and I think I have this same leak in this video. Didn’t they come out with an ssm that adds additional studs now? Where are you located and would you do this work on the side? Thanks in advance

[@schszbrgr4782]

What are the torque specs for the coolant lines fittings on the turbo and the engine? Is there a torque spec on the oil screen fitting?

[@xtremeautoservice8655]

that coolant fitting at the block is it supposed to be able to slide right out and in without removing the jiffy clip?

[@ericbjorling5193]

Hi Mayson! Great content and keep on doing what you do! I recently had the cab removed from my 2021 F150 for a warranty engine replacement. Upon receiving my truck back after a few months without it, I noticed a creaking sound that "barks" from a dead start as the weight shifts from front to back or the front end lifts from a stop. The truck only has 8k miles on it and was buttery smooth and quiet before the service. It's super annoying to listen to in a basically brand new chassis. My dealership is aware of the issue, as I brought it back the same day to point it out. We all agreed that I'd put some miles on it to see if it goes away. Unfortunately after almost 2k miles, it is still there. I'm in the process of getting it back to them. Seems that you have done a LOT of these "cab-off" repairs. Just wondering if you have any ideas what might be causing this, or have dealt with it, before I get it back to them? Thanks much in advance for your time!

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Thank you! I would say from what your describing it sounds like a mount related problem. I’d probably start by torquing those cab bolts down a second time to ensure everything is snug. Other than that, possibly a engine or trans mount could cause this considering they had the engine out of the truck when the cab was off. I know that’s a bit generic, it’s just hard for me to give any useful input without hearing and seeing myself. Hope that helps!

[@ericbjorling5193]

I was thinking cab mount related and do appreciate the insight. I was a little unsettled when I met the tech after the service and he said it was the first one he’s done. 😳 We’ll get it figured out. Thank you for the reply and have a great Sunday!

[@thomasvanderhoff768]

I’ll tell you why the o rings go bad they flatten out get dried out vibration temp change.they should do a flared connection.

[@JKZ103]

QUESTION! I have a 2018 gen 2 3.5 ecoboost f150 that has a coolant leak on driver side turbo that im about to tackle and might as well do both sides.... I can't find anything on working on the gen 2 trucks... any advice and I know the fittings are different. Also is it a bitch to connect and disconnect the coolant line for turbo on these engines? Are they quick connects or what? Thanks alot your videos are great

[@bradbeam7254]

So, I’ve been doing oil changes at my expeditions oil life gauge; roughly every 7500 miles and I want to do 5000 miles. Should I get the turbo filters changed? Any idea what else I should have done and a round about cost/mx time it would be?

[@Lightsoutpredatorremoval]

I pull the cab for everything😂 Makes life so much easier.

[@cobravids]

I have a question. I am chasing down an oil leak at the back of my 2013 f150 EB. I had the valve cover, the vacuum pump leaking and now they are fixed. At idle this thing doesn't leak at all or at least very much. From sliding a camera to the back of the engine the only location I see that looks loke oil is leaking is from that quick connect at the back of the passenger side. This is the lone that goes into the top of the turbo, single line, not the one with the return. My question is, from this video it almost sounded lole he said that was a coolant line. But it looks lole oils leaking. What line is this? And if I had an oil leak in that area where should I look?

[@lisah8007]

Does 2011 EcoBoost 3.5l f150 have oil return line filter. No videos found anywhere

[@michoacanom4320]

Bet EcoBoost owners love that repair and condensation in intercooler thank god i bought my coyotes 2011 with 413k when sold 2018 now with 210k just regular maintenance done to it

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Dang you put some miles on them. How often you change the oil?

[@michoacanom4320]

@@FlyingWrenches13 yes i do i change oil every 5k motorcraft synthetic blend n oil filter as well i change it my self to be 100% sure whats inside the engine i dont trust no one else might put some cheap or wrong oil type or weight i do 5w20

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Well whatever your doing keep it up lol most people don’t get near that many miles out of them.

[@michoacanom4320]

@@FlyingWrenches13 the key its maintenance and dont tow with it heavy or have acceleration from dig i dont trust shops so i do all the maintenance my self and buy motorcraft brand only so i know exactly what goes in insane my oil life says 50% left but i still replace it ive heard ppl go 10k miles on oil no way absolutely not good for your engine i do haul stuff in the bed but no trailer towing

[@ToGrimmToWin]

They're not really any better than the eco. I'd rather have the 5.0 but got an eco do to availability.

[@gilbertomoran7420]

Good stuff bro . Do.you still beat the flag time , by pulling the cab ? Roughly how many hrs does that pay ? Just want to have an idea that way I know was up when one of these pull up yo the shop. Thanks

[@scottmagyar2775]

Sir great videos , question. I am new to fords F150 . 2005 4.2L engine with 47,000 miles does all F150 cabs come offf, and is the 4.2 L engine s good motor, thks

[@Rottingboards]

I wish F-150 trucks would have all the front end hinge forward like semi trucks.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

That would be nice for working on them!

[@NickWeissMusic]

This wouldn’t cause sudden low boost would it? Mine just went out, I haven’t had a chance to look at it, haven’t noticed any coolant leaks on the driveway or anything. Really hoping it’s just an air connection.

[@angelrivera2661]

Kool men

[@JohnnyRebKy]

What I learned from this is that I’m glad I bought the 5.0 v8 😂

[@traylorkarttech4432]

I’d pull the cab but I don’t have the 2 post lift. So I’ll be pulling turbos and the vac pump to replace the vac pump and the exhaust manifolds. Hopefully that will give me the space.

[@2hhardpk]

Have you made a video on removing the cab from the frame ?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

I haven’t. Even through it’s pretty easy to do it would take a very long video to show everything that needs to be removed to get it off.

[@philip600rr]

Ford used radiator fittings for tranny cooler lines from European cars on their Turbos. Smart.

[@EverettBenjamin]

What's the book time on this job?

[@eliseolozano4785]

What about the ford expedition?

[@phillipjohnson8241]

Where is this shop ? I want to bring my 2017 F-150 here and have it serviced?

[@livenfree]

Wow whish u could do ours here in Michigan? What do you charge for all. This!?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

What vehicle?

[@kellyconstenius676]

Quick fitting is not the only bad design at those turbos. They also have a real dumb design for the Manifold bolts at the turbo connection. ONE. With the heat that is getting spun up by those turbos are you kidding me? I have a 3.5 on my 13 F150. 225,000 miles. Purrs like a kitten. But thats after the complete Timing replacement including the phasers, Two new turbos. ( done by previous owner) I just did the left exhaust manifold. So I am still in the black on the truck. But when I get a new one. 5.0 Baby! The 3.5 is a fun engine. But they are running it at the razors edge to do what it does. The 5.0 was designed to run in the Mustang at a much higher compression and faster RPM. Then they de tune it for the truck and a lower compression head. And retain the beefing for the mustang. I think that should be a great motor for the F150 sort of like the 4.9 strait 6.

[@phillipjohnson8241]

Where is your shop please??

[@21divel]

Weren't the turbo coolant lines updated for 2018+ ecoboost engines?

[@mauricecooper176]

Do you gotta bleed the brakes after you do that

[@jordanadamowicz8513]

Hey I got a question man. So iv recently replaced both cylinder heads on my 98 dodge ram 1500. Do you think I could do this job myself? I ask this because I feel like a head job requires many more steps and I just wanted a second opinion. I feel like I could do this with some headache... but if it saves me 7000 dollars I would gladly do it myself. This what the dealer quoted to do both turbos.

[@chrismichie7769]

WTF???

[@awsomeman62]

So do you have to split and recharge the ac system every time you pull a cab?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Yes sir! Machine recovers and re uses same Freon so no waste.

[@417annice78]

👍

[@ScottBennettMusic]

Just buy an inspection camera and make a shallow socket. I swapped coolant fittings at the head and block and both lines as well while replacing my turbo without even using a lift much less removing the cab. No leaks, new turbo, on my way.

[@AlexMartinez_26]

Can you make a in depth video on removing cab on expeditions?

[@AlexMartinez_26]

I’m also a ford tech but I’ve never seen anyone do that on a expedition, it would be a better way of doing phasers on those as well

[@FlyingWrenches13]

I will do my best. I’m in the process of making a f-150 cab removal video now so maybe after that, I’ll add in the extra steps on the expedition.

[@flashg1331]

Hello All, I have a 2014 F150 FX4 with the 3.5 Ecoboost. I have this burning oil smell from the right/passenger side turbo but only on first startup after sitting overnight or after a couple days. There is no visible external leak except where the turbo connects to the exhaust pipe i can see signs of oil at the connection and the smoke as the oil is being burned off. This smoke gets in the cabin as well when the fan is on and it comes out the from of the hood as well. Anyone has this problem before?

[@amauryrodriguez5161]

Same here

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Your vacuum pump may be leaking. That’s a real common issue on that engine. It’s on the back of the passenger side head.

[@noahgullion2]

Do you know the part #s for the coolant lines?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

I don’t know what they are right off. I will check later.

[@noahgullion2]

@@FlyingWrenches13 Thank you!

[@DavidClutch]

How much does this job cost?

[@xschm1dx]

How much do you charge for this? My 2012 is having the same issues. My dad is retired mechanic and doesn’t want to deal with this mess. He’s a die hard ford guy.

[@ehcatsfaneric2211]

Where is your shop? I would like you to repair mine.Eric in upper east Tennessee

[@Mrdubomb]

I think the root cause is the quality of the rubber seals. I am seeing a noticeable difference in rubber in the last ten/fifteen years.

[@SuperBeetle1600]

Any plans on making a video for the cab removal?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Yes sir. I have one in the works!

[@josebecerra1230]

Is it out yet? Lol

[@FleetTech97]

@@josebecerra1230 it’s out now!

[@lilTryhard]

I just watched a 2011 F150 cab being removed and he needed to evac the AC system. Do you need to do that on a 2015 model?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

You have to evac the ac on almost anything to remove cab.

[@jimmyaber5920]

The amount of time it takes to work around things is often so much more before you even consider abuse on your body. If you ask a back doctor what people do that will cripple them via back problems they will tell you heavy lifting with misaligned back. Those last 5 words describe cylinder head removal on any brand full size diesel pickup.

[@kylepeterson7323]

I would take down the front drive shaft to get back fitting

[@damonruiz5405]

Took me 30 seconds to get the snap ring off the fitting without taking cab off

[@13cardenk]

How much is this service???

[@ToGrimmToWin]

To charge more in labor?

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Pretty much

[@emeryhersh8702]

I spent forever getting to that driver side coolant fitting on the rear and finally just took a 19mm wrench and loosened by feel and removed it as an assembly. No more messing around with that stupid C-clip 😂

[@dannmann17]

I wouldn’t have one of these Fords but if I did I would not put that quick disconnect back on I would rig something different and permanent

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Would be the best thing! I’m honestly surprised aftermarket world hasn’t came up with anything to replace them.

[@jpcarling2019]

How much should this repair cost? I have a 2014 f-150 with this same leak.

[@bradschmitt317]

I'm having same issue. How much did you end up paying to repair? Ford dealership quoted me crazy high number. Appreciate any feedback you have - thanks!

[@jpcarling2019]

@@bradschmitt317 I did get a quote from a small local shop for only $600, much less than I expected so I'm concerned about their work.

[@mathewrehklau6889]

Im having this freaking issue right now where it leaks when it is cold but doesnt leak when its hot?

[@earlraines6152]

What the cost on this job (repair cost out the door )

[@ansonadams1510]

I like to hire you to fix my turbo leak and oil leak. The ford house where i live sucks.

[@dedwin8930]

Show how to remove the cab!! Would be useful and interesting..

[@FlyingWrenches13]

Will be coming soon! I’ve been doing 6.7 upper pans everyday and haven’t pulled a f150 cab lately to get any video on.

[@brianmeek5236]

Everything is made for speed to snap together on the assembly line,

[@shanke83]

How about a video about gettin' them cabs off in 45 minutes. 🤘

[@FlyingWrenches13]

In the works

[@shanke83]

@@FlyingWrenches13 your videos are awesome bro, thank you for "lightin' the fire" to get this shit done.🤘👊

[@B0LT53]

Just did this today. Didn’t remove cab. Fought in the tight space in between the block and turbo. Got it all done I’m about 4 hours.

[@FlyingWrenches13]

You the man. Good time!

[@randalln.587]

I dont know why there wasn't a recall on these. Im a Ford guy by blood. I've got a 15 150. Took apart today. Northern truck. Of course. Them top coolant lines are crusty. Can you remove fittings on back of motor without taking cab out? I've got a chit ton of all kinds of freakin tools. Haven't came across this one yet. People are real cheap right now. Wish I can post pic of lines. Bottoms came out fine. You got a GREAT VIDEO MAN. KEEP IT UP..

[@guerramundial9868]

Good job.. I took down a engine to replace a spark plugs, too. To charge hight😂😂😂😂😂