Why Use Polyester Primer like Feather Fill?

[@Mikefngarage]

that stuff you can Fatty it up get runs and push it on so heavy it is almost like a complete run and it will sand down smooth. Then put another coat on there and paint it. Great for final body filling then paint. But you must put on the correct amount of hardener. some guys use too much and it crystalizes and cracks easier. I prefer DTM HIgh build Urethane. It is more flexible. But also really hard to find a true DTM urethane. most urethanes are either DTM or high build not both. The high builds usually have more adhesion problems. That is whey they recommend using Epoxy coat underneath. Which is the same recommendation of feather fill now.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the info Mike. Not sure why FF recommends using epoxy first. Never ever had an issue putting FF over bare metal. Same with body filler. Have a great weekend my friend :)

[@autobodytrainingsolutions838]

I haven’t use that in years but it works great in areas where you just can’t get enough primer on. Have a great weekend Jerry

[@LakesideAutobody]

You too Greg - thanks for checking it out my friend :)

[@shanewashington5591]

That's great since I'm going through the trials and errors learning all of this. Thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

It will certainly help you become a better body man - you will use less and less with the more dents you do :)

[@RustyGlovebox]

Thanks for sharing all these valuable tips

[@LakesideAutobody]

My pleasure 😊 - glad you appreciate them RG - have a great weekend my friend :)

[@petar443]

The best thing on this channel is that you show to do it in a backyard garage. People claim that this products need large nozzles and giant compressors. But show the people it can be done with a small compressor and nozzle.

[@LakesideAutobody]

A lot of the products sold today is just that... companies trying to sell bigger and better stuff. A while back there were a few beer brands - now.... there's millions of choices.

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

I use a 4 stage turbine.

[@russdavis1960]

I've never used Feather Fill... but back a few decades ago i used a production by Clausen called 'Sandy'. Pretty much sprayable body filler. I'd let it set for a couple of days and sand it smooth. It was high built enough to fill in 36 git scratched. Lately I've been using a high build industrial epoxy primer which seems to work pretty well.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Wonder if that was the first type of polyester primer - I'll have to look it up. Thanks for your input Russ.

[@waynesimpson3138]

Yep . Good stuff. Used lots of it over the years.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for your input :)

[@marcellemay7721]

It's really good for those creases and body line areas, where a lot of shaping has to take place. Primer just does not build up enough to keep some material on the ridges. I also like it on large flat areas that need perfecting to get them dead straight. It doesn't sand the greatest unless you let it set up for 24 hrs IMO, it tends to gum up the paper.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Honestly... start with 80 or 120 grit then go to finer paper. It's faster and less issues with clogging paper. You'll like next weeks video ✌️

[@rongamble9884]

I use Sherwin Williams products now there SU 522 is a DTM primer and can be used as a sealer it can be sprayed with a 1.3 - 1.5 tip 4 coats are all you need and fills very nice

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the information RG - appreciate it - have a good weekend ✌️😊

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Great video and advice Jerry ! Have a great weekend !!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 👍- you too Stephan :)

[@gm-lb9oe]

Thx for the video jerry, have a great weekend!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for watching GM - enjoy your weekend too :)

[@45AMT]

Going to have to give that stuff a try sometime. I've heard it works good.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Great for giant messed up areas - doesn't shrink either :)

[@Pat-Van-Canada]

Thanks yet again Jerry!. Do you think it is better to use finishing putty or the Feather Fill?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Myself, I would do better with feather fill because it will really tell you the truth - you'll see the low areas you need to address. You can use the putty too - it's all what works for you in any given situation. Generally big messed up areas that you are not really sure about - feather fill is the answer 😊

[@Pat-Van-Canada]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

This is why you’re the professional, Jerry. So many products that can do so many things, if you know what to use. Thanks for sharing.

[@ocean374]

Wow looks really good 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Ocean - thanks for watching too :)

[@BruceLyeg]

I love that stuff

[@LakesideAutobody]

👍✌️😊

[@kathy0443576]

This stuff works great. I used it on a million hail damaged cars where you usually have mud end to end on hoods, roofs and deck lids. Get your mud work straight and hose on two to three coats right over it. Block it out with guidecoat with 80, then urethane primer. Watersand with 400 with guide coat. Comes out mint,straight as an arrow, great for older Camaros etc. where you need the stylines straight. Won more than a few car shows. Awesome stuff but nasty to spray and make sure you use dust masks sanding it out. Joe the mudman signing off...

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for you're input Joe - I appreciate the support. This stuff does work for sure - can absolutely block with 80 - no issues if done the way you state. Thanks again 😊

[@hickeyskustomresto]

I use this product on the rear quarters on a 63 coupe deville that was seriously traumatized, it's the straightest car I've ever done.

[@LakesideAutobody]

It does work great, doesn't shrink, etc. Thanks for your input HKR :)

[@yeayeasautoadventures]

you are doing one hell of job on that car Jerry, drink 3forme sir

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks YY - enjoy the weekend my friend - thanks for always checking out the latest video ✌️

[@PeteR-or5kj]

It's not so easy to sand. Especially in those tight body lines in the pillar.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'll probably be using a DA for a lot of that 😊