Wideboyz vs Lattice: The System Board Challenge!

[@WideBoyz]

Great video guys. thanks for having me on the channel :D look forward to the next board off (I've been working my double clutches...), and seeing you all soon

[@TheXeeman]

jen is craazy strong.. can you do magnus vs jen next?

[@LatticeTraining]

Ooh good call. We actually keep talking about a Lattice trip to Norway and Sweden... and then Covid killed it :-(

[@anuragandanujclimbing7219]

I second this

[@Bobbzorzen]

That would be dope af!

[@mgs8]

​@@LatticeTraining is it possible now?

[@jacktrussler20]

I love how supportive everyone is of one another dispite competing - very wholesome. Now we should do this again with magnus and tom included lol

[@juanjohnsonfoncea5956]

Big fan of Jen, love to see her on the board! Those boulder problems Jen set are going to give me nightmares tonight haha I loved to see Pete struggling on them. Also love Pete's creativity. Massive fan of both!!

[@PaulBakker]

“In this video, we feed a poor pony shuffler to the comp sharks. Some pony shufflers may have been hurt during the recording of this video.” Nice one Jen!

[@LatticeTraining]

Hahhahahahahaha!

[@soupisreallygoodfood]

Nice to see Pete on the wall after that video with Magnus!

[@Bobbzorzen]

You know what they say about people with big hands... They wear big gloves. Lovely video!

[@VetEye]

One of the most fun climbing videos I’ve watched!

[@LatticeTraining]

Thanks!!

[@vendrad]

Paddle paddle flipperoo cray lob

[@LatticeTraining]

OMG. It never stops.... :-D

[@petewhittington9399]

Pete: I'm representing crack climbers Also Pete: puts up least crack-like mono-problem possible. Jen: I've not put a harness on for a year Also Jen later... Still hasn't put a harness on (properly) for a year.

[@SamAshworth91]

What's a mono but a really small crack?

[@Govanification]

Pete is one of like 10 people who sent cobra crack which has a super powerful mono finger lock on it! He trained mono strength specifically for that route.

[@jmac316]

Pete's knee cracking every time he moves through the moves just goes right through me! Reminds me of the video when he blew his knee!

[@slapthesloper]

Jen and Pete are both endlessly entertaining haha

[@theDomCorporation]

This was so good! More content like this would be amazing

[@richardbradley1532]

Is Tom batting for both sides?

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

these are the most heinous problems! I love it!

[@SuperKneehow]

Jen what a beast! So clever on her second boulder too. If he can’t fit in between the holds he can’t even get up lol 😂

[@epicsheep123]

The Lattice spray wall looks so so good

[@GavynPendleton]

Pete has spent too much time in offwidths. His sets were painful but hilarious!

[@LatticeTraining]

Good to see you on the Wideboyz live yesterday. Incredible knowledge from you... a true CrackHead 🙌😎

[@dominickappeler5150]

So much fun to watch

[@aaronng9513]

Do a video on training for beginner climbers!

[@tomlees7671]

Spot on Michael Owen impression!

[@cinerati0n]

Watching Pete's hand go purple trying to grab on to those foot holds XD

[@c0c0cake]

Great vid!! Anyone know what shoes Pete is wearing they are fuegooooo!

[@andrewgilbertson5356]

Nice one!

[@duncanwright8392]

Problem 3 looked horrendous

[@alexaverbuch1]

what is that hangboard on the shop(?) wall, on the far left? the one with monos & two-finger pockets on the bottom

[@LatticeTraining]

Give DarkVentures a shout - they'll let you know!

[@alexaverbuch1]

cryptic...

[@LatticeTraining]

@@alexaverbuch1 google will solve all :-)

[@johnt2902]

Those ring finger mono's made me uncomfortable .

[@LatticeTraining]

They make everyone uncomfortable when they pull on 😅😅

[@maximiliamarinel-loamat2216]

Minute 12:55 of the video. Is that a safety exit trapped behind the system board 😂

[@Papershields001]

Even tho Pete’s harness tactics are silly as hell, all climbers look cooler with gear.

[@rostam24]

Question: at 4 minute 2 seconds Jens head whips back as she goes for the next hold. Why is that? Could it do any harm? I'm asking because it happens to me quite often and I don't like it :p Awesome video by the way!

[@Dougal866]

that is to spread out the force which will try to pop her off the hold by spreading out her deceleration over a longer period in time. not dissimilar to the way you bend your knees when jumping off something to absorb the impact (landing with straight legs = grim) . It reduces the peak force she has to generate to stick the hold. she fell into it dynamically so she had velocity she needed to decelerate. If she held her body rigidly when she caught it there would be a higher peak force and more chance of popping off even though she has the strength to hold that position statically. when she gets there she has to generate enough force to overcome her weight + decelerating momentum. throwing her head back in the opposite direction to her velocity at the point in time she is decelerating the quickest (when she has just grabbed the hold and is trying to stop) helps reduce the force that stopping her momentum is contributing to pulling her off the hold. you will notice people often throw a leg back in dynamic moves, catching with a bent arm and sagging into it ect.. for similar reasons. using your body like a monkeys tail to give you better control over exactly when you decelerate. you will also notice people do not do this when moving to a hold statically because they have no velocity to decelerate, unless they are doing it out of habit. As for injury, I've never heard of anyone straining their neck this way. I think it is safe as long as you don't really lock up and jerk violently. In principle it is to soften movements! so that shouldn't be a problem. If you want to do it less then there are a few things to think about (hard to give advice without seeing you climb): go statically when you can (move in a manner you could stop at any point in the movement). this sometimes requires more strength and body tension, is also often less efficient but gives you the best chance of sticking the hold once you get there!. when being dynamic, think about trying to generate only enough momentum to just get you there and no more, look into deadpointing. pay attention to the smoothness of your movement. going between holds is a transition with shifting body tension ect... how well you perform it is as important as where you started and where you are stopping in determining success. Avoid focusing on just the position you want to land in on the next hold. If possible think ahead, try to have a foot somewhere in the direction of the hold you are throwing to so you have something to push against and help stop you once you are there. realise there are other parts of your body you can use like Jen like a free leg, or sagging into your shoulders when you catch to try and absorb the impact. there is nothing wrong with doing it, it is just another tool in your toolbox. if you are over reliant compared to others then perhaps it is a sign you are overly diynamic, overshooting ect.. Unless I have miss diagnosed, if you aren't doing it in an attempt to stick a hold you moved to dynamically, then its because you are releasing you body tension on reaching your target (in most situations it is best to avoid doing that!) Oh my, what a ramble.. sorry! I just kept thinking of more stuff xD

[@rostam24]

@@Dougal866 thank you, Bob! I'll try to do some analysis the next time it happens to see if it's useful (deceleration) or a symptom of losing tension. I appreciate the elaborate reply, really good!! Thanks

[@olliewelsh123]

love ollie casually sitting on an aston martin at the start. climber bum / total baller

[@AEClimbingTV]

So fun to watch! haha!

[@Crooklyn7]

I’m happy he uses his ring finger like me now I feel normal😂

[@keff_cb]

I used to use it until I broke a2 and a3 because of using that damn finger, it's anatomically weaker I think, though some people seem to have a stronger one

[@aidanloeser4890]

got your jangly hexes

[@cdd1craig]

Sitting on that KZbin money for the intro ehh

[@chaozzah]

Was wondering about that, I hope it's theirs, great free content and great coaching content too.

[@sirlockoff]

pete going too soft with his own problem backfired

[@TuvofLuv]

Yeah the ring finger thing was making me feel a little 🤮

[@calebainsworth7247]

Tbf,not an actual OG system board to be seen. ;)

[@libertine5606]

Stop on the monos! Monos + unfamiliar+ feet cutting away + competition = end of climbing injury! I could see she was rubbing her fingers I hope she got away with it. Blowing a tendon will never be as strong.

[@Snowbound2643]

Pete looking super weak.

[@boursitocard]

hes so toxic