Wireless Throttle and Gearbox Steering Stops for Trolling Motor

[@piesquared1025]

How are we going to lift it. ?? I love how this set-up works. Thanks.

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks! You could do a small tilt. Honestly, there have been very few times I have ever needed to lift the motor once I have set the collar.

[@maxxpatrolrc2901]

Hi there, with this setup are you able to tilt the motor?

[@Aksmaniyak]

You could but not much.

[@fishesfromtupperware]

I'm still hacking away. I see you've used those 880 ESC on a few projects for a while. How's it holding up long term and under load? Have you had a chance to run it hard for a long time in any of your other projects? I'm really amped about it and looking forward to wringing it out. Just looks a little physically small for the job. I'm really hoping you'll tell me its fine. BTW: I found a "new" building material for brackets, boxes etc. PVC sheet created by splitting and flattening PVC pipe with a heat gun. Easy to work and strong enuf. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rX29h4Bqp5ahb8Usi=7EY9hcXdbQvm8wWR

[@Aksmaniyak]

Hi Wali. The 880 holds up well with trolling motors under 50lbs thrust. Anything larger can cause the wiring to fry. That is why I tried the 100A PWM in my MK 45lb project. For all of the cost and labor involved with the PVC sheet project, I would go with the superior poly cutting board methods.

[@fishesfromtupperware]

Great! I’m running a motorguide 30 so that should be fine. I’m planning to mount everything inside the trolling motor head. Definitely running the cooling fans and I think I’ll cut some vent slots. I spray everything with corrosionX. Although it works magic for waterproofing, I’m pretty sure it hinders cooling. I like cutting boards as materials. Although they beat the flattened PVC in terms of initial labor, it’s hard to beat in cost (free scrap and leftovers). PVC also forms easily with heat. Made some flush mount trailer light brackets with it and I’m pretty tickled. Gonna give it a shot as the first section of a tiller extension on my 6 hp outboard. I going to try molding it around the tiller and pvc extension to give me some place to mount the shifter, kill switch and cord. See any holes/improvements for that idea? Thanks! Wali

[@Aksmaniyak]

Sounds great Wali. This is a similar project I did. It may help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqLUi4WIfZhogac

[@fishesfromtupperware]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4vCn3umg9udpsUsi=Uc9aisNRS6FqQki7 Stumbled into this vid today: it details how to adjust the amount of travel on the transmitter. No need for stops!

[@Aksmaniyak]

Thanks Wali. I had ordered another ESC to try that out since I know CH2 can be adjusted as well. I didn't know about the video though.

[@fishesfromtupperware]

@@Aksmaniyak I gotta take it back. That doesn’t do a thing in terms of stopping rotation. The gearbox would have to be a servo for that to work. What it does do is slow it down and smooth it out a lot. Similar to changing the esc programming but just using the transmitter. The reduced “stroke” makes for very smooth steering.

[@Aksmaniyak]

I tried using the channel 1 with the servo motor and the wireless controller and didn't notice any difference.

[@fishesfromtupperware]

@@Aksmaniyak interesting. 🤔 wonder if the manufacturers idea of “stroke” is different than ours. Things often get lost in translation. I’m going to give it a shot with a regular servo and see if I can puzzle it out.

[@Aksmaniyak]

@@fishesfromtupperware It wouldn't be the first time that poor translations occurs with overseas products. Let me know how it goes.