Triumph TR6 TRGB Fuel Pump Conversion

John has been running with an original set up on his TR6 since his owned the car, and the Lucas fuel pump set up has given him doubt with reliability. Therefore John has purchased a new Bosch style Sytec fuel pump conversion kit, developed by TRGB. It's a very neat conversion, and comes with a good set of instructions on how to fit it. Although I've changed the positioning of the relay to my own style to be in the boot, to fit behind the the boot panel. And therefore to utilizing the original loom as the trigger wire for the relay.
TRGB are a great company for supplying Triumph TR car parts, and are only a phone call away for any help or assistance, please do check out there website link below:
www.trgb.co.uk/
Please note, I am not being paid in anyway to advertise TRGB, my recommendations for TRGB come purely from my own experiences of dealing with several different Triumph specialized over the years. TRGB have always been very helpful, and will only sell good quality parts, and give good advise
Also this video is mean't as a vlog of how I fitted the TRGB fuel pump conversion. If you are fitting this kit, please do follow the TRGB fitting instruction
#TriumphTR6 #TRGB #FuelPump
Music by: Unicorn Heads - A Trip Around the Moon

[@mariano4003]

Great work Steve !

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers Mariano, glade you enjoyed watching 👍

[@jonziggy]

Great video, an excellent conversion for the TR6.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers John, glade you can enjoy driving your TR6 without thinking is the fuel pump going to let you down 👍

[@HamishRacing]

Well done Steve. Another job well explained 👍

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍

[@cheftush]

Gotta watch these now Steve 😉

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Fantastic stuff, fuel pressure at 106 psi, dirty balanced throttle butterflies and she'll run sweet as 👍

[@rossilake218]

Steve, I placed a facet pump in the same place over 20 years ago. Here in the states we only need 5-7 psi for my dual SU’s. I made a alum dust cover, right angle in the front with an extra tab for vibration. Runs cooler and only dusty. It’s my Summer car. Would love a PI system. CHEERS!

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Oh great stuff! Facet fuel pumps are excellent, and I've found them to be a fine replacement to the mechanical pumps on any British carburetor car. They just do the job and work well 👍

[@chrispapadakis3575]

Good video and good mechanic. Looking forward to see more from you. Having my self a TR6 PI , I would suggest checking out the electric wires feeding the fuel pump for excess heating after working for awhile .

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers mate, this is the main reason for the relay and using the old wiring as the switch wires on the relay 👍

[@johndavey72]

Morning Steve . As usual , you make this look deceptively straightforward . I guess in real time this took 4 or more hours ? I can understand why the kit fits outside the boot to prevent over heating but l'm slightly surprised there isn't some type of dust cover to prevent dirt /mud / etc. Did that hole cutter come with the kit ? And did l notice you have a shiny new de walt drill ? or was that John's ? Great stuff as always . Thanks Steve . Take care and stay safe.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Hi John, the argument TRGB say and I agree with, it you drive a classic car in general in good weather on the road so there isn't really much need for a dust cover. But there would be nothing stopping you making one. As for the drill and drill bit, that was Johns 👍

[@T101cyberdynesystems]

That looks like a neat installation. Great video Steve, no music which I enjoyed too, just pure mechanics! Liking the fuel pressure gauge to check the prv, are these expensive with the correct fittings? I had some stumbling the other day on my '6 and some fuel smell and wet near the tell tale hole on the pedestal, before going to change the lip seals, I thought I'd take off the return line and blow it through. There did seem to be some resistance at first and then it was easy to pump. It was then bone dry after while running. So I'm hoping there was a pressure build up which was causing a slight leak and making it go very rich causing the stumbling at idle.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers mate, I try and mix up the videos hear and there with the music, so to make them easy to watch You can buy the test gauge from TRGB for under £100, they are a good bit of kit to have in the tool box as you can keep an eye on things. However don't run the car for too long with it connected, it is after all a testing gauge, not a permanent fixed to the car gauge. With your return line it might be worth checking it for ethanol erosion. The good old ethanol in the fuel has a habit of collapsing fuel lines. I recently had to replace my fuel tank filler neck because of this 👍

[@T101cyberdynesystems]

@@SteveDentonClassics thanks Steve, maybe someone in my local TR Register group already has one or we could do a group buy and share it. I had the pipe from the return line over the rear axle go, probably helped by the ethanol! I'll keep an eye out for sure.

[@68Vitesse]

Thanks for a nice clear video 'how to' - it's good to see the job from beginning to end. One thing concerns me, the hose connections to the new PRV and simple Jubilee clips. Is that going to hold the pipes secure enough with over 100psi and considering all the factory connections in the fuel system are screw in type joints?

[@SteveDentonClassics]

The hose from the PRV return to fuel tank is only relieve fuel pressure, and will only run any excessive fuel over the quoted 100 to 105psi back to the tank. As there is no build up of pressure down this fuel line and with no restriction at the end of it, just returning fuel to the tank. The fuel from the PRV only opening at around 5psi or so, above the pressure required and you only get around this 5psi down this hose and only very preferably on say the over run, or every now and then when fuel is not as in higher demand from the pump. Therefore a jubilee clip is sufficient enough to secure this hose. As for the factory screw fit return pipes, that come in from 1973, prior to this they were push fit and it's recommend to fit jubilee clips to the fuel return hoses 👍

[@68Vitesse]

@@SteveDentonClassicsFair point although, I was thinking more of the high pressure input side of the prv, which should be receiving input in excess of 100 psi.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Ah, I see, so the high pressure hose from the fuel pump to the T Piece is crimped together with high pressure crimps. Then the new style diaphragm PRV is screwed into the T Piece in the same way as the old style pencil type PRV would be. Everything on the high pressure side is screw fit with the TRGB fuel pump 👍

[@68Vitesse]

@@SteveDentonClassics Gotcha - that's reassuring :-)

[@henrymehta6377]

Great video - quick question. Looks like the grommet for the fuel pipe is too big and water/muck could get through. Was that just video angle? We could see it when you were doing final but if pump install in the wheel arch

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Unfortunately that is what is supplied in the kit. The grommets are a bit slack around the hoses, therefore after the install John put a load of silicone around the grommets and hoses 👍

[@TheT1lsb]

Hi Steve, Good video just the electrics were a bit quick. What do you need feed from the battery for? and did this go to the relay?

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Hi mate, the extra wire that is fused on the battery runs direct from the battery direct to the relay in the boot and then to the fuel pump. Then the original wires that would normally fed the fuel pump are then used as trigger wires for the relay. Done this way round just means the fuel pump gets a better current draw 👍

[@roverp4p5b]

Excellent video, thank you. My car is running the original Lucas pump, it has never let me down but it is very noisy, especially with the hood up. How would you compare the difference in noise between the two pumps?

[@SteveDentonClassics]

In all honestly, when you have the hood up there not much between them noise wise. Having it running outside the car just keeps the pump cooler, and gives a little more boot space 👍

[@hscomet]

Great Vid thanks Steve, Do you know the difference in the current draw between the standard oem pump and this Bosch style pump? I have run an original Bosch pump for some time but due to dirty fuel I am now fitting a new 'Bosch Style' Thanks - Richard

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Most modern ones are Sytec or a Bosch style type as Bosch no longer make a high pressure pump. The Sytec is a good pump, and is well developed by TRGB 👍

[@sammoj9836]

Hello Mr. Denton. I own a 70 R.H.Drive TR6 pi that has a Bosch fuel pump and filter configuration. In your video I noticed that fuel is first supplied to the the filter and than the pump. My car’s previous owner placed the fuel supply to the pump first and than filter. Which is the most correct method? I should add that I live in California USA and There isn’t anyone around here who knows anything about the pi system. I will appreciate your comments. Cheers.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Ok, so there are some various conversion kits on the market. The Prestige Injection kit has a pre fuel filter, pump and post fuel filter. Depending on what fuel pump you have, I'd say your better off with the filter going before the fuel pump as the pump is rated to over 100 PSI. Most fuel filters are only designed to cope with 20-30 PSI, so before the pump is a better place for it. Also it filters the fuel before it's drawn into the pump, cleaning it before hand. So I'd place the filter before the pump 👍

[@codelocust3297]

hi, does your car still have Lucas injectors or Bosch ones (that's the case of my 2500 Pi Mk2 saloon)? Thanks

[@sammoj9836]

I am so sorry, I wasn't aware that I had received a text from you, I received no notifications. I have push type Lucas injectors. @@codelocust3297

[@sammoj9836]

Mr. Denton, I can't believe that it has been two year since I last communicated with you. Couple days back, my car started fine, idled well, and ran well for a few miles, all of a sudden sputtered and died. I do have a fuel pressure gauge installed on my dash and it indicates to about 85/90/95/100 psi each time I cycle the ignition key on and off, I do also hear the fuel pump running. I am planning to change the regulator, pump and filter. I am currently using; -Original fuel regulator -Bosch fuel pump, PT No. 0 580 254 921 -Bosch fuel filter, PT No. 0 450 905 401 I believe both of these items are discontinued. May I please ask you for an equivalent items, or the part number of the parts you had installed in you friend's TR6. I also would appreciate any comments, or suggestion that you may have to remedy my situation. Much thanks, Sincerely, Sam @@SteveDentonClassics

[@fenland203]

Steve, can you confirm the pre also was sourced from TRGB ?

[@fenland203]

Pressure relief valve I was referring to. Spell checker !!!!

[@SteveDentonClassics]

It comes as a kit, so everything to convert the pump from Lucas to Sytec to there. The PRV is separate, and needs to be brought as a separate item 👍

[@sammoj9836]

Mr. Denton, I can't believe that it has been two year since I last communicated with you. Couple days back, my car started fine, idled well, and ran well for a few miles, all of a sudden sputtered and died. I do have a fuel pressure gauge installed on my dash and it indicates to about 85/90/95/100 psi each time I cycle the ignition key on and off, I do also hear the fuel pump running. I am planning to change the regulator, pump and filter. I am currently using; -Original fuel regulator -Bosch fuel pump, PT No. 0 580 254 921 -Bosch fuel filter, PT No. 0 450 905 401 I believe both of these items are discontinued. May I please ask you for an equivalent items, or the part number of the parts you had installed in you friend's TR6. I also would appreciate any comments, or suggestion that you may have to remedy my situation. Much thanks, Sincerely, Sam

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Hi Sam, best bet it to chat to the chaps at TRGB, that’s where I buy most of my products Cheers Steve 👍

[@ronnie8752]

Can it not be fitted on the inside?

[@SteveDentonClassics]

In a word yes, their is nothing stopping you fitting the fuel pump inside the boot of the car. The one on my TR6 for example is a Prestige Injection 'Bosch' style fuel pump and that was designed to be fitted to the inside of the boot, and I've had no issues with mine in the 10 years it's been in there. However the TRGB fuel pump was designed to fit on on the outside for two good reasons. Firstly, having the pump inside can lead to the pump overheating and failing. Therefore having it externally mounted eliminates this problem. Then secondly, having it mounted to the outside of the car makes it more silent to the driver and passenger, rather than having it spinning away in the boot. The other solution I have seen people do is mount them inside the boot, but drill cooling holes for the pump. I think it's really a question of weather you want to follow the fitting guidelines or not. And from what I understand it seems to be more an issue in hot weather country rather than the UK. As I said, mines been in the boot for 10 years with no cooling holes without any issues, but mines a Prestige Injection pump 👍

[@ronnie8752]

@@SteveDentonClassics Thanks Steve I understand you have fitted it as TRGB intended but in this possition its open to the elements plus I noticed where the pipes go into the boot through the grommet there is a gap so could possibly leak in water. Fitted in way for most of us would not be a problem as we only bring them out on fair weather days but I do intend fitting one shortly but probably inside though. Thanks for another geat vid. Take care

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Yes, that's TRGB's argument, that I agree with, most will only use them in fair weather. As for the grommet gap, I'd agree with you, it is a little excessive, but it's what comes with the kit. John later did put a load of silicone around it, just to keep the element out. I do think that there is another option for all weather driving, and that would be to make a box section for it outside the car to case it in with. So long as it's vented to keep it cool then I can't see why it wouldn't work. At the same time you have nothing to loose trying it in the boot first, if it does overheat, then it's easy enough remount it elsewhere 👍