Triumph TR6 Clutch TIMELAPSE Video

Mike's clutch problems will hopefully be something of the past
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#TriumphTR6 #ClassicCarRepairs #SteveDenton
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[@jimbobxcityguy5338]

Man o Man. I changed my TR 6 clutch one night after work. Took me all thru the night. By myself. That was 50 yrs ago. God how I wish I had that engery now.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

It's like anything, when your older you have the time to do what you wanted to do when you were younger, but your body cannot do it like you could when you where young. Time can be a cruel mistress 👍

[@49dodgeguy]

Oh hell guys,,,,now I have to take my 75 tr6 out for a drive,,,, I was enjoying a Sunday afternoon on the couch,,,but after seeing you gentlemen touring the countryside ,,,,I'll go freeze ,,,it's only 2 or 3 C here in Canada today,,, Thanks for sharing another great video,,,nice work,,,

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Good man, Aprils hear and the classic car season has started. Get the motor out and enjoy it :)

[@kevinwillis9126]

Yet another cracking video Steve. Thanks for sharing..

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Your welcome Kevin

[@cheftush]

Tell Mike he has the best colour TR6 😎 Good job guys, that's the way things should be done...and afternoon in the driveway with a few mates and some tea (beer) followed by a fun drive to check out your work.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers Tush, thought ya'd like it being in white lol, I'll pass the message on

[@xMarkie]

My dad has a red one just like that on the left. We love it so much, I’ve grown up with it

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Oh awesome!! Great cars aren't they 👍

[@xMarkie]

Steve Denton yes, I love them! Triumphs are my favorite British cars. I’m learning stick on my dads ‘72 TR6.

[@crazybonez3588]

thank you for this video. very helpful for my first time doing one of these

[@SteveDentonClassics]

You're welcome, glade it's help you 👍

[@HamishRacing]

Another great video. Love the timelaps ideal for this type of job.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers mate, hopefully there's many more to come

[@jean-claudegruner3460]

Thanks Steve. Regards Jean-Claude

[@SteveDentonClassics]

No probs mate, anytime :)

[@tomcollier2444]

Interesting video dudes. I'm thinking of buying a 6 having owned one a few years back. Back then i made the mistake of fitting a Q&H clutch which sheered the fork pin, twice?. So, replaced it with a Laycock. Personally I found it easier to yank out the entire drive train. After removing the bonnet, obviously! Did it single-handedly the three times actually. Much easier all round!

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Yeah I can see how it would be. I have done it that way, but being young and agile I'm able to get under the 6 easily enough to do them the way we done it. I'm surprised with a QH clutch, they don't tend to be too bad, you can modify the folk pin by drilling an extra nut and bolt throu it, there loads of info on this on the Buckeye Triumph Website. But overall I've always believed that if the manufacturer made them a certain way with millions of pounds of research, that unless your racing them, leave them the way they we're built. Of course there are certain items that are better in today's era, but with the clutches if you can get hold of a good Laycock, then they run rings around others. Main thing is do buy another 6, come back into the game and enjoy it!!

[@tomcollier2444]

I agree about the initial R&D, maybe we should have faith in that but as Laycock are no longer available, needs must. Having said that I'd be none too keen on modifying the fork and shaft by drilling. But! It seems common practice to do the mod so hopefully all good. As for buying one! Quite a few out there but pricey. I'm after a derivable sound car needing work as I'm competent on mechanicals and welding etc, not bothered about a showboat full of trophies and rosettes, I want to drive it not polish it all day!!

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Good on ya mate, best way to be, they we're built to be driven not polished. Don't get me wrong I appreciate pristine examples of cars, but I like to drive a car not clean it

[@stevenoutland9547]

hope it is all good. I learned the a lesson to check the throw out bearing cross shaft fork pin. I seen too many bent and just not letting the clutch release like it should. but still a great video and I appreciate the view from here. cheers

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Cheers Steven, yeah I know what you mean, I’ve seen that happen too. Glade you enjoyed the video

[@stevenoutland9547]

I have to tell you I owned my 73 TR6 in 1976 till 1982 and is still the funniest car I ever have owned. White with shadow blue interior, ammco trunk rack, bumper override bars, factory hard top and overdrive. assembled all the extras little at a time. I worked on it to afford it and still today could name every bolt and nut because I had to and do not regret one second of it. I miss having it and wish it was still being made. Your video made me feel like I was right there doing the clutch job with you all and wish I was. keep the videos coming please. Steve from the USA

[@SteveDentonClassics]

A very touching story with your 6, and that's exactly the spirit of my video. There a lot of chaps out there doing full restoration videos, and there great, there also many doing 'how to' video, and there also great. But I just want to do things my own way, and that's me, you can watch me doing a job, maybe you may learn something, maybe I may learn something, or maybe it may bring back a memory. But I never want to lecture people, just show the toys I enjoy working on in my own way

[@stephencooper684]

Clutch pressure plate + Torque wrench = peace of mind.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

True and I completely agree if unsure how tight something should be, however this is not just a hobby for me, it’s my daily job and in 15 years of doing it I’ve never had a clutch pressure plate come loose or fail from not torquing up the bolts

[@stephencooper684]

Owned a 5 for 27-years. Replaced the clutch at least twice perhaps thrice. Dislocated shoulder and skinned knuckles meant nothing to me.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Good man, that’s what I like to hear, someone who enjoys working on there car, and doesn’t mind the hard work that goes with it. TR5, now I’m a little jealous of you of you with that one, awesome looking car 👍🏻

[@andyblood8497]

Great vid Steve, you think one person can change a Clutch? I will have to remove my gearbox soon to fix a leaky g/b oil seal, clutch will get done at the same time but I'm questioning whether I can do it solo.

[@HamishRacing]

Great work Steve. Andy hope this link works to the TR gearbox crane John invented. Makes diy gearbox replacement so much easier www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/59031-gearbox-inout-easily/

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Yeah, its straight forward enough job to do by yourself, I've done it by myself a couple of times on my own TR6. The hardest bits are getting the clutch pivot shaft over the chassis on reinstalling, and getting the gearbox to marry up to the engine. They are very weighty gearbox to man handle especially with the overdrive on the back so a good breakfast is the order of the day with them, but still very do able. The only other thing you need is a way of pinning the flywheel still while you undo and do up the clutch bolts, something like this will do the job www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-SEALEY-VSE2394-Flywheel-Locking-Tool/361517264039?epid=23017013628&hash=item542c1baca7:g:ZCkAAOSwPAxaEE7c Cheers Steve

[@markrobinson8539]

I always did it with 2 people. The second person was under the car and dealt with the gearbox which was supported and wheeled back on a trolley jack. I was on the top and lifted the gearbox out of the car.

[@craigstearns7587]

Hi Steve! I was wondering if you would do this same procedure if you were to try to replace the rear main seal… or just pull the engine?

[@SteveDentonClassics]

In all honesty I’d pull the gearbox out rather than then engine. It’s just easier overall 👍

[@ralphcap2476]

You should have put the trans tunnel on first before the ebrake unless you have the split tunnel the ebrake handle is one PITA when the spring pops out nice vid in real time how long did it take

[@SteveDentonClassics]

The transmission tunnel was left off just to test to make sure everything worked ok. Mikes replacing his carpets so the seats were put back in as a temp measure so the car could be taken out for a test run. In real time this took us all day. Glade you enjoyed the video

[@ronpilchowski9898]

just got finished changing my spitfire to overdrive + clutch+, slave+ master+ solenoid, + switches+ relay, all by myself. I really need to make some friends LOL

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Nice one, well done chap 👍

[@grahamclark4477]

should'nt take that much effort to get the clutch disk line up tool out of the disk/clutch after assembly [7:43] which made trany install a nut cracker [8:30]. Should'a wiggled the tool around a little to center the disk before the clutch bolts were snugged up.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Hi Graham, we was in a bit of a hurry to get the whole job done in a day for the video. Hence not fitting the transmission tunnel on road test. And what was not seen was I had to drive a 20 mile round trip to work to change the thrust bearing over in the press. As you noted when you do things in a hurry you can make a few mistakes. Hopefully someone will read your comment and it'll help them when fitting there clutch. Cheers Steve

[@49dodgeguy]

Got the old girl out of the garage ,,about 2 weeks ago,,,,I installed a new master clutch cylinder,,,,needed to test drive of course,,,hahahaha,,,

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Nice one mate 👍

[@simonedwards5070]

Got exactly the same problem Steve so it’s definitely fit laycock clutch???

[@SteveDentonClassics]

If you can get a laycock clutch fit one. Borg and beck are just cheap mass produced rubbish. AH clutches are also ok to fit. Do also check everything is running good as well. The bushes on the release pivot are in good condition and the folk isn’t bent. They also suffer from the bolt sheering on the pivot and this can cause a similar affect. Hope all this info helps. Cheers Steve

[@markwilliams572]

Hi Steve just picked up this video . I am just replacing a customers clutch , to find the tapered pin has sheared in the release fork/shaft, the bit that is left in is not accesable and prevents the shaft sliding out . I think I may have to cut the shaft and replace the whole mechanism , unless you have any tips that is.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

Unfortunately its a weak spot on the TR4-6 and Saloon clutch, and the only option is to cut the shaft and buy a new one. When it comes to fitting the new one, its a good idea to replace the bushes the shaft runs in, and also you can drill the shaft though the clutch fork with a second nut a bolt, (am 8mm should be fine for this). This generally stops the tapered pin for sheering again. Theres some good information on Buckeye Triumph on this www.buckeyetriumphs.org/clutch Cheers Steve

[@markwilliams572]

@@SteveDentonClassics Cheers Steve as I suspected. I havn't done one of these for 40 years so I am having to dig deep into my memory banks. It is one of my customers summer cars, only came in for a service and check over.

[@SteveDentonClassics]

No probs, just happy to help

[@markwilliams572]

Hi again Steve , clutch all back together now and actully clears but not enough . I was thinking of putting in an adjustable pushrod . Any other ideas?

[@SteveDentonClassics]

It is worth checking the clutch pedal on the clevis pin to the master cylinder. They do wear and cause clearance issues. You can fix this by welding up the hole and redrilling it to the correct size for the clevis pin, it's also worth looking at the clutch pedal pushes while your in the area. If everything else is in good order then an adjustable push rod is the way to go, I've fitted them to many TR's, they iron out many issues in the clutch system.