Workshop Wednesday - A Tale of Two Guardsmen

[@queenman5794]

1:28 "I'm all about cutting corners." well yeah, Jingles, you worked in the navy, they cut so many corners the ships come out circular!

[@andreassjoberg3145]

That was the Imperial Russian Navy, specifically : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_monitor_Novgorod

[@Rocky1987TheRock]

Kamtchatka: Did someone mention Japanese Torpedoboats?

[@Firebolt193]

Russian Baltic Fleet: *Flashbacks intensify*

[@glenmcgillivray4707]

Those boats had not much depth. They would probably laugh at Japanese torpedo boats, even if they hit they would only damage the surface Layers not the deep machine spaces...... And they would be outrun by every fleet in the world.

[@theleva7]

@@Rocky1987TheRock Admiral Rozhestvensky: Throws another pair of binoculars overboard.

[@ollikoskinen1]

"They shall be my finest warriors. They shall know no fear, and they shall be called Adeptus Daveus."

[@TheLordofFury]

THE PLANET BROKE BEFORE THE GUARD DID i love the imperial guard, my fav 40K faction

[@jameswilkins5512]

Cadia is just out flanking

[@TheLordofFury]

@@jameswilkins5512 CREEEEEEEEEEEEEED

[@adriaanvanwyk662]

Yeah they are great. Imagine fighting evil demigods, genocidal alien machines, galaxy devouring monsters and more with only a bayonet stuck on a flashlight:)

[@godemperortrump6932]

Thank you

[@DerKopfsammler666]

CADIA STANDS!

[@57thorns]

Alliteration Allures Audiences.

[@feanor311]

Warhammer and Jingles: Two of my favorites combined. I want a Guard army, but have so much painting backlog that it will be 9th edition before I can get around to it.

[@mrwigglez3661]

Ive got a backlog from 3rd Edition so don't feel too bad.

[@vermis8344]

And when that comes around, GW will have rijigged the rules so that you have to buy and paint even more minis, and movement trays for Rick Priestly's WWII-in-space squad-skirmish game will become even more necessary...

[@derpimusmaximus8815]

"The paints have moved on quite a bit". FWIW, Cote d'Arms have every old GW shade you remember, because they're made by the same company that used to make GW paints.

[@SneakyZaku]

I think he more meant that in the paints have changed for the better, rather than any longing for the old paints

[@derpimusmaximus8815]

@@SneakyZaku I'll be honest, I really don't think they have changed for the better. The difference between layer and base is viscosity and nothing more. Oh, and the old pots were - like Cote d'Arms - 18ml, not 12ml like GW are doing now. My hobbying gap lasted from the mid 90's to a couple of years ago, and while I'm in much the same boat as Jingles, since I never used to thin paints either, the biggest differences aren't the paints, they're that I've got a better handle on the basics.

[@SneakyZaku]

I do miss the old pots, but thats all I miss, the new paints have been wonderfull to use, and again, it seems more like jingles was complimenting the range and not longing for the older paints

[@vermis8344]

@@SneakyZaku Pretty much every other well-known gaming mini paint range has it's own line of high-opacity paints and premixed washes. Been a few years since I looked, but that includes Coat D'arms, IIRC.

[@MrPolicekarim]

HMG Paints they were called.

[@jetsetuk]

some 25+ years ago... a mate and I used to run a Wargames club in our sleepy country town Scout Hut of a weekday evening... My mate and I built up armies in Warhammer and Warhammer 40K, as well as Genestealers and Bloodbowl... We did other armies too, I built up a Samurai series, my friend did American Civil war and Roman... but... GamesWorkshop changed the rules for the 40K stuff 3 times in the span of us running the club... Citadel Paints were pretty basic, as I assume you'll remember... but... the rule changes to bring in new models, or re-works of their old models, the costs of buying their paints as opposed to say Tamiya or Humbrol Acrylic paints, the exorbitant cost of buying the models in the first place, etc etc made me all to allergic to Games Workshop's base principle and so never touched their wares ever again... and that principle? Bleed our fan base dry, Profit at any cost... yep... I'm glad you're doing this series, it evokes a misty eyed, slightly blurry set of memories from that time... however I deplore that you are promoting that toxic Games Workshop principle of bleeding their fandom dry for every single penny they can wrench from their poor mis-guided and naive hands... >.

[@vermis8344]

I hear that!

[@orgun]

I was really confused for a minute when I absentmindedly clicked on this and your familiar voice came on. I watch a lot of Warhammer content on youtube and I've also followed your World of Tanks and gaming content for years. Didn't expect to see an overlap.

[@Frostburnphoenix]

i like this idea for a workshop wednesday

[@carabus0354]

A base paint has a high pigment count and is designed part of a layer system and gives good coverage over a primer, layer has less pigment and are designed to provide the main colour. Wash is a very fluid mix and is darker and designed to provide a shade for folds and creases. Highlight (Edge) is designed to be brighter and be painted on the edges. Dry is designed to be used as a dry brush for metallic etc. Contrast paints are an over pigmented glaze that can blend all the layers together, or undiluted be used as a stain.

[@OnboardG1]

I’ve painted most of a Khorne army in contrasts. The reds cover extremely well to the point it’s very easy to get solid coverage. By the way, contrasts use a medium designed to pull away from edges, they’re really rather different from the other mediums.

[@hvymtal8566]

Contrast paints are GeeDubs saying "alright most people don't seem to actually ever thin their paints. Fine, we'll do it for them, the lazy bastards..."

[@AD-mf5ev]

Dave has two new friends: "Dave" and "Dave"

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

"We'll call you Arthur Wilson 1, and you Arthur Wilson 2."

[@dougjb7848]

@Morio Murase Kilimanjaro is a pretty tricky climb you know, most of it's up until you reach the very very top, and then it tends to slope away rather sharply.

[@JayAdan]

As somebody who paints minis for a living and has used Contrast paints on literally hundreds of minis I can tell you that your take on them is spot-on. Great for some things, terrible for others. They're a good thing to have in your toolbox but unless you're just in a hurry to get things done you shouldn't use them for everything. The thing that makes them nice and an improvement on making your own washes is that you know what you're going to get out of the bottle rather than not knowing if you've mixed your wash the same as you did last time.

[@TheTaffy2499]

Honestly it depends what you want, I’ve seen space marine armies pure contrast and they are incredible. Handy tip for power weapons and quick plasma coils. Leadbelcher or whatever silver you prefer.. chuck Talasar blue contrast paint on the blade or barrel and let it dry. Comes out amazing.

[@arueshalaetablebuildingsociety]

Also, Citadel make a Shade called Reikland Fleshshade that is really good for fleshy areas.

[@mitchellhogg4627]

Concept: every week or fortnight jingles takes emails from us regarding models we want him to paint. To stop him getting overwhelmed he choses 1 or 2 he wants to paint, responds to said chosen emails telling the writer to send the model in and the rest gets filmed for out viewing entertainment

[@brianthird4173]

I love the paint tutorial, its almost therapeutic watching jingles. If I could dare to comment, there is a few mould lines that could be scraped away unless they are left in place intentionally. I use a scalpel edge to scrape the lines away.

[@acedfox541]

Why do I start to imagine Jingles with his long beard AND a Bob Ross arfo? 👁️_👁️

[@mrwigglez3661]

We don't make mistakes just happy little heresies

[@HuMaNise34]

*sees the small blue glue on right side of screen* Nostalgia trip! Assembling plane models (with assistance lol) back in the day was fun, conveniently the models also became a new toy for me when I was a kid :)

[@hakbash7588]

Nice progress Jingles ya zogger.. I was taught old skool when you paint a model paint it as if you were dressing it, so you paint from the deepest layer outwards. So an imp guard you start with the overall base coat then exposed skin, BDUs [uniform], body armor, LBE [equipment], weapon, etc. Works in a similar fashion on vehicles, you paint it inside out.

[@csdn4483]

Another useful flock Jingles...baking soda...looks really good, especially if you use superglue instead of PVA glue to put it down Also, another use for contrast paints, put down a base coat of a metallic like the Lead Belcher spray. The contrast lets the metallic shininess come through and works well on space marines for making the armor look metallic.

[@anunknownlifeform]

You can indeed make contrast paints from normal paints, but you should thin them with contrast medium rather than water to get the right properties. Also, you can add contrast medium to contrast paints to soften the effect which is especially useful when you want to tint a pale surface.

[@Silver_Paladin]

Contrast paints are pretty useful for skin and for making metallic colours like metallic blue without needing to use an airbrush also, I can't say how pleased I am that a youtuber I already enjoy content from is doing weekly miniature-based videos like painting, as it's one of my favourite hobbies. I think you would really enjoy A Song of Ice and Fire miniatures, and maybe flames of war minis as it's mainly a tank based miniature line

[@Seldonlair]

One thing contrast paints are good for Jingles: yellows. Regular yellows are...just...soul crushing. The contrast yellows aren't as eye popping like some layers, but they are much, much faster and less grinding.

[@MrGrimsmith]

One suggestion for you Jingles, cheap way of testing finished effects. All the bits of sprue you cut the pieces out of? Keep some of them to test paint combinations on. Not a perfect solution but cheaper than an extra miniature.

[@williamrea5722]

I remember the daze of painting miniatures, a long time ago, and it's entertaining watching your videos as you do it. Gives me the itch to start back up, problem is I'm 80% blind now, so not going to happen. So, I have you to fall back on and watch, enjoy, and fine arts of splashing color on things that look cool when finished. And finally, thank you for naming your guardsman, Bill, it's a good name that deserves a good paint job. Enjoy, my friend and keep up the great work. Peace from the US of A. :D

[@adama.1491]

I feel like it’s pretty clear that most of us who watch jingles is for jingles and not what jingles is doing lol

[@ethanpeel5415]

Yessir. Came for the games and jokes. Stayed for the talk.

[@strt6480]

We need a Jingle's Radio. I'm a little bit shy but I have to admit I'm listening to his videos when I want to chill out.

[@LoneEagle2061]

A few things for you... Contrast paints aren't just thinned, in the way we would have made a wash (without the Citadel Expert Set of Inks). The things they're thinned with include a surficant to maximise the amount surface tension will pull it into the hollows, and a retarder to slow the drying (hence the longer dry time). Layer paints are more like the old Citadel paints, base paints were introduced perhaps fifteen, twenty years ago; they're designed to provide better, more consistent coverage, initially primarily by making them thicker. Shade Paints effectively fill the role Inks (the Expert Set) used to, although they're much less pigment dense than the old inks. Drybrushing is still a viable technique - particularly for areas like the fatigues. I'd suggest grabbing a big pack of large make-up brushes (a pack of around twenty will cost less than a tenner on Amazon) for the purpose - you can get those REALLY dry and still see the effect easily, and the dryer the brush, the smoother the effect. Brush in the direction the light would fall.

[@HowlandGreywolfe]

contrast paints are also good for metallic colours. leadbelcher silver, then whatever colour contrast. looks amazing

[@seriade]

Contrast paints are basically stains and while they are useful to help they need to be used in conjunction with old techniques to make the most effective use of your time and make the most out of the model

[@wolfsblue77]

I have been playing and painting Warhammer 40 K models since 2000 and have been enjoy the game when I can find good people to play with. I’m not the best player of the game but I enjoy it. I have watched a lot of videos on how to paint the miniatures especially tanks. I play Tau and SpaceMarines . But out of all of the videos that I’ve watched in regards to painting miniatures this that you’re doing Jingles is the best by far I have learned so much more from you than I have from watching 40 K painters.

[@ZZGameBoyZZ]

Honestly, I could probably just watch paint dry as long as Jingles its talking over it.

[@islamispagan2137]

GameBoy gay

[@ZZGameBoyZZ]

@@islamispagan2137 As we say in The Netherlands: beetje gay is oke

[@cjl221]

Not gay jingles voice is legendary

[@cjl221]

Im petter griffin and I approve this message

[@traviscosby1016]

I'm enjoying this new series. A friend and I are getting back in to wargaming and this is great timing since we have many models to paint.

[@rossmorton7002]

There's definitely a trick to using contrasts on flatter areas (space marine power armour, for example) make sure it gets into the recesses, but lift the excess paint with your brush where it pools on the panels. Some colours are better than others as well.

[@horkosofdonso7624]

If it has atleast 4 basecoats and 3 washes the model will perform well on the table when you need it to. It might not be fully painted but it's painted enough for the dice gods blessing.

[@kobold_ts]

The major difference between wash and the GW's Contrast paint is the surface tension. Contrast paints don't go into recesses as much as a wash does, it has a different kind of medium.

[@MrValidusLupus]

I love these kind of videos! And I think I have a similar model of the M3 Lee, but it's made completely from metal, with working tracks, movable turrets, the works.

[@lordsjaak]

i do like this concept of you Jingles. so that i also learn your expirence and different technique of painting.

[@nyl0n733]

Jeez, got it in my recommended, it said 8 seconds ago!

[@alexalban8688]

Love this show idea and love to see you diversify your content! Seems like it'll be a relaxing series to sit in on and enjoy.

[@realkekec4028]

Just watching your video and building a military vehicle Fordson W.O.T. 6 truck in 1:35 scale.A time well spent for me.

[@matthewhutchinson6310]

Jingles: Contrast paint are good for something but base paints give better overall results. Me: I don't think anything can help 😜. I'm hopeless painting miniatures 😭

[@SneakyZaku]

Love the attempts on the guardsman, I mostly found the same thing, my own guardsmen use the praetorian guard scheme, blue pants, red shirt, and a drybrushed cream armor and helmet.

[@douglascampbell9809]

Mine are Flecktarn camo pattern with gas mask head swaps. (300+) The armor is close to the WW2 German late war 3 color camouflage. (about 90) Not even sure what the points cost would be now but it was about 16,000 pts in 7th ed. All painted.

[@dasmorbo3508]

A figure painter, the Jingles gnome is! 10.000 smpathy points for you, sir! I used to do 1/35 modelling for the better part of 15 years including fancy figure painting and all the bells and jingles. You do a solid job there, looks good, especially the Space Marine. I am eager to see what you do with the M3. :)

[@jaredw9171]

This week on the Mighty "Bob Ross" Jingles...

[@ivo215]

I tried this, once upon a blue monday. I remember I also had different inks from Citadel. I liked what green ink did for my goblins.

[@Qardo]

Games Workshop: Oh no. Gnome you cannot use our name. No, no no. Does not matter if you paid money to us for the figures. We are taking your money. Oh? You don't use ads? You do now! Maybe something they would or not say.

[@onkeldunkel665]

Personally I prefer layering. I almost never drybrush or highlight, as I find it looks silly. Washing is silly too, or at least on small miniatures, on tanks it's serviceable. The idea is that you apply layers of colors that are brighter than the previous, leaving the crevasses. When painting IG in particular, you want to keep it simple, trust me :D.

[@Preywinder]

Jingles! I wasn't fully concentrating so I need to watch this video again... I did just about finish some of my 'guard a few years ago, must get back around to that. You talk about cutting corners, my painting was literally just a matter of get the colours I want and slap them on :P

[@me-A2B]

Now I have this sudden need to see Jingles play board games.

[@n4rut089animereviewer]

No Jingles, you should paint it Pink like what the freshman girls did in Girls Und Panzer for the Memes.

[@timur2633]

Watching your videos I really want to get into the hobby. A few days ago I visited the local shop with miniatures, just as you said "the prices are eye watering". Still, I think I'll get few just to satisfy my curiosity.

[@billradloff1919]

Looking good, Jingles. Although your guardsmen look like they had one hell of a long trip through the Warp and seriously need some sun now :D

[@christianhuwernurrenbrock6282]

i get a real nice Bob Ross feel watching the MIGHTY jingles.. keep up the good work!

[@bobsmith8067]

Do yourself a favor and throw those Citadel paints in a box and invest in some Vallejo paints. You won't regret it. You've already got a good grasp on the techniques and better paints will give you better results. Keep up the great videos.

[@shogunnate7724]

They look good! I've really been enjoying these videos. Watching you reacquaint yourself with the noble art of going blind over small pieces of plastic has been great. It's almost inadvertently guilt-tripped (err...inspired...yes...inspired🧐) me into working on the minis for my upcoming D&D campaign. I plan on dedicating all of the TPKs to you, oh mighty gnomish lord! Aye...I'm just blaming you for their deaths, but at least it will be colorful! 🤣 Flesh was always a pain for me when I started. When I'm looking for a quick job, I usually just pick a ruddy flesh tone and wash it with Agrax Earthshade. Stuff works well for just about everything. Flesh, reds, browns, tans...Agrax Earthshade 🤣. Seraphim Sepia is also a good one for more muted tones. It seems to have gotten quite expensive, though 🤣. Have you thought of trying out other color ranges? Vallejo, Reaper, and Army Painter all make a decent product and are cheaper options for acrylics.

[@azrallye]

I have been really enjoying these videos, Jingles. Keep up the great work! P.s. a T’au Riptide would looks pretty cool on your shelve, just say’n lol

[@jmc7034]

After watching your vid (a few hours later and lots of tea) I would like to offer a couple of suggestions for you. Brush soap. Amazing stuff that will prolong the life of your brushes (wish I’d used it sooner). Basing. Your bases on Colin and Bill are ok but could look amazing with a tiny bit of work. 1: try using GW texture paint instead of glue and sand. Takes less time and after a dry brush looks far better. 2: tufts, slate, ferns and anything else from a bits box (left overs from model kits). Glued and painted can set a story as to where your mini’s are fighting (ie jungle, ruined city). It’s all worth a try. I’m really going to look forward to Wednesdays to see what work you come out with. Please keep going ❤️

[@The_MightyJingles]

Brush soap was actually one of the first things I ordered. Naturally it hasn't arrived yet.

[@jmc7034]

The Mighty Jingles ah the great British postal system 😂😂😂

[@lordmalvada8212]

Came for the tanks & stay for the painting. No eggs in one basket for you Jingles.

[@Juansolous]

I think I'm going to enjoy Workshop Wednesday.

[@Swindondruid2]

A shout out to Wargames Foundry paints. Each one comes with three shades - shade, main, highlight - which makes highlighting really easy.

[@genericdave8420]

Well this series has made me get out some 30 year old models I was given from the Judge Dredd board game. Dredd, Anderson and the four dark judges all in 50mm metal. Damn you Jingles ;-)

[@TomRowlandIsSnowblind]

Your a space wolf player! 🤘🤘 Loved my rune caller in a bike with thunderhammer. My favourite model. Op as hell. Once took down 5 guard tanks in combat 😂 got banned for being "beardy" for 6 weeks lol

[@dougjb7848]

Problem with faces is that, if the details like brow furrows and cheekbones are molded to-scale on a miniature, they’d be so small as to be invisible even with all these fancy paints and techniques. If you scaled Colin or Dave up to life-size, the various furrows and creases on their faces would be 1/2” deep

[@justanotherviewer52]

Thanks Jingles. And, of course, a special thank you to Dave, Colin and Bill. You troopers stay safe out there!

[@johnny_turk9983]

When you say "Cutting Corners", just say "Good enough for government work". It's the same thing lol

[@TheTaffy2499]

Jingles.. PAINTING!!! GOOD GOD SIR IT IS GLORIOUS!!

[@Vnx]

Dill weed from the spice aisle of a grocery story also works well as grass for model bases.

[@katfezza4570]

I just slap Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil over everything no matter what I'm working on.

[@ModellingforAdvantage]

Not bad mate, for a man who hasn't fondled a paint brush in 30 years.

[@patraic5241]

Two of the washes I have tried is with Ink instead of paint. A wash made with india ink and a good white ink can get really good results with shadowing and shading.

[@calhungus]

I agree,a very good name for the episodes Jingles.

[@alexkarhandras]

Its like im listen to an GW Advertising, there are many more amazing stuff to paint stretch your range and you might find stuff you like. GW is a good for starting its easy to understand and to obtain but because it easy you might miss out on the good stuff. AK interaktive for Base, Vallejo colors, Airbrush, chipping, glaze, oil all the fun, taste it don't get stuck because of its easy.

[@Finwolven]

*Jingles, three minis in*: Here, I've pretty much gotten to where I was when I stopped painting... There's lots of new stuff in this here Citadel paints line. *Everyone else*: Stop using Citadel paints! Start doing wonderful things with Vallejo glazes and Airbrushing! Do complex mixed paint sets from four different companies to get Absolutely Best Results right NOW!

[@GrasshopperKelly]

Jingles.... From the children, to the adults, the store's birthday painting competition try hards, to the lads who just put three strokes of paint on a primed model, to pass tournament standards.... The Staff themselves in GW Dublin will tell you, Contrast is pretty much for the lads who want an okay army, haven't got 2hrs a day free time, and need 10hrs, and aren't overly fussed about the peek quality they may possible be able to achieve. You're doing a diorama, so yes, Contrast isn't for you ;)

[@Finwolven]

Contrast paints are a tool. If it helps you achieve the look you want, they definitely are _for_ you. Just... Y'know, don't use only a hammer, when you've also got chisels and saws and screwdrivers and all.

[@GrasshopperKelly]

@@Finwolven yes, but they won't be the tool for his diorama(s) :P I've seen some epic looking Skaven done by a Golden daemon winner here in Dublin using Contrast. That looked far better than the average standard that gets put on the tables. But he did it as an experiment, and the other half he did using purely bases, layers, shades, washes and other paints from his wardrobe full of Citadel and Valejo; still looked even better, but he admitted took about twice as long. As an armour fanatic, they're also quite limited for myself. Almost everything is either an Iron hands tank, or a converted Afrika Korps guardsman vehicle (50% GW, 50% Tamiya (and a few other minor exceptions)). One thing I see they're most popular with in store is painting pox walkers, and anything with fur...

[@jetsetuk]

Whilst I realise the answer to the question, that bit is rhetorical, but what's wrong with teaching people how to use the tools at their disposal, such as Acrylic Paints can be thinned with water... leaving a pot lid of paint for a few minutes or so before painting makes it go a bit thicker as the water evaporates... or buying a different manufacturer's paints as they ARE different in viscosity... how to blend tints to get the one you're after... all tools of any model maker's arsenal... rather than pumping out a "new line" of paints or tools or whatever, just for the sake of raising the company profit margin?

[@GrasshopperKelly]

@@jetsetuk well yea... Remmember It's a company, and for the most part, their main goal is profit. Proof GW is willing to extra lengths for said profit? the kind of pay the staff get, is only appetising to fans of the hobby. The guys in Nottingham who spend all day painting do it, because they get their staff discount, and access to loads of spare parts in the recycling bins from the dioramas and displays. They'll open a box of "X" Take out all the cloaks, then dump the rest of the sprues in a bin, and when someone hears they opened "X" They go diving in after for all the weapons etc. Some one else will be looking for heads, and rummage through and probably find them too etc. There's a line in their staff contract, forbidding joining a union, and I know that means GW haven't checked their legalities across hoarders, because in Ireland, it's part of our constitution that workers be permitted to join a union. A long time ago, a friend of mine worked in another British retail store, during the Celtic Tiger, many companies increased pay, as it was around the 5-7 year mark when everything in Ireland goes up by a couple of % for inflation etc. They didn't increase the pay, except to management staff. Few complained, 4 years on, the crash happened, and they actually started reducing staff pay or laying them off, as they renued their contracts. Sometimes replacing them with new staff for just above the minimum wage. So many either left, for a better job, or joined a union. My friend included. Said British company then started trying to fire staff, for joining unions, against their contract. They, and another British company then discovered, that they couldn't lay these staff off, because they hadn't done anything to breach their contracts, except join a union, which if they continued to do, would amount to increasing larger fines, and 6 month maintenance fees to their layer off staff. I love GW's products as much as the next guy, but bar a handful of their top management, they're British British Businessmen in their 40's+ looking to grow their profit, and the same for the shareholders. At least half the businessmen in Ireland over 40 are the same. Infact we probably have worse misers here. That's just what that generation is like in Ireland (40-60 years ish). Look at Duncan Rhodes. I'm not saying Contrast was what made him quite, no. He'd had his eyes on other opertunities, and well, to develope his career. Contrast was what what catalysed his decision and action time. Not because it's aimed at easier and more time efficient army painting (in particular young, and newer customers to the hobby), but because GW isn't willing to go any further than they have about educating in the hobby. They've now gone back to rehashing what they've already done on the WH TV channel, just with the new Citadel colour logo slapped on it. You'll also see the they've done very basic airbrush videos, because a lot of the staff pushed for it, and Duncan was another to suggest it, but they only listened when he'd talked about handing in his resignation... Sorry for the massive rant, basically a long way to say "They're a company, and their particular interest IS money" (that doesn't mean Contrast is bad, nore that GW as a whole doesn't care about the hobby).

[@SneakyZaku]

Contrast can help with things in area's, but using multiple techniques brings out the best in them for sure! I find using them in conjunction with washes, drybrushing and layering can make a great model, and even in some circumstances make for great effects, though mostly on the brighter colours

[@cmdrzdenek-joerg5628]

Watching this video and hearing the name Wash so many times... Constant reminder of the feeling of being a leaf on the wind... ;)

[@The_MightyJingles]

Curse your sudden but inevitable betrayal!

[@jameswilkins5512]

Your not the only one when it comes to contrast paints. I've been painting and playing 40k for a few years and I can reasonabley say contrast paints is rng when it comes to using it. If you every have any questions jingles me and few of my buddies would be more than willing to help you out

[@Treasure_State]

Ooh.... painting miniatures! Can't wait to see jingles paint some Shimakaze models next! Check out KaoticNightNetwork on twitch to watch them paint some warhammer miniatures. They're a small channel but fun to watch!

[@AonghasMcTavish]

I like this. I think it's great to name all the models to XD. Perfectly Jingles.

[@daisywalker119]

Well done my son. These videos are interesting and a nice break from people complaining about tanks and ships. It's also obvious that you are enjoying yourself. Keep them coming and for pity's sake...don't SCREW UP Rita's M3!!

[@jwenting]

Rita should name that M3 "Dave's Revenge" and have it torment Jingles for the longest time.

[@ODST122]

I love these videos I recently got into drawing and it’s nice to have someone else finding their niche in there hobby too

[@agemmemnon100]

For flesh I found that a mix of brown and white made a great flesh tone.

[@larryfontenot9018]

You mentioned drybrushing after washing. I always did the opposite. My steps were: Prime, apply base color, drybrush, wash and glaze, highlight. It's a little more complicated than that, though, because you paint in the order that a person gets dressed. In other words, paint skin first, then clothing, then accessories, then insignia. Drybrush or blend each layer as you go. The reason for doing it that way is so that each layer covers the splash from the preceding layer. In other words, when you paint the skin and drybrush it, the pigments are going to get on the clothes. So painting the clothes after painting the skin covers the mistakes from that step. Then painting the belt, straps and other accessories covers the paint you put on for the clothing. You didn't mention glazing, which is something you did. Glazing is covering a base color with a translucent layer of pigment, and it's generally something you do simultaneously with washing. The difference is that you can wash without glazing if the effect you want to achieve calls for it. You just apply the wash to recesses and not to the raised areas. I glaze after drybrushing because the glaze helps tie the lighter and darker areas together in a more natural looking way. That also allowed me to achieve effects by layering different colors on the same surface. For example, when painting an orc, I might use a medium green base and then drybrush it with a yellow color. Then I apply a dark green glaze and wash over the whole surface to make the yellow tie in with the base. With experimentation, you can get some cool contrasts that nonetheless look natural.

[@jacpig1049]

I never ever, thought I would see jingles modelling

[@phantomJK]

Hmm, I kinda liked a mix of both, Bill's Armour with Collins Fatigues.

[@Ximm84]

I'll be honest.. these are soldiers in the 41st millennium.. They would be absolutely covered in mud and blood. If the models look a little worse for wear then it makes them more believable. If they had pristine uniforms they would look utterly out of place on the battlefield. I'm absolutely loving these videos and cant wait to see more from you as you progress. Would love to see you do a land raider phobos/crusader or perhaps a Whirlwind. In any case keep up the amazing work you magnificent bastard!

[@Finwolven]

You'd want to paint the model first to appropriate colors, _then_ apply mud, blood, shite and piss.

[@bonegaming6760]

And they say old dogs cant learn new tricks Things are looking sweet

[@nikond90ful1]

I am willing to be experimented on in furthering the knowledge of our beloved Overlord.

[@YourRealBestFriend]

jezus man, ive been doing this for three years, and glancing at your setup I can tell you've outspend me at least twicefold.

[@alexgcampbell2000]

I don’t claim to be a great painter (I’m really not) but contrasts paints make it actually possible for me to do some non crap painting. It’s also great for orks, it’s like it was designed for waaagh, cause ork models are leather and skin, (and leadbelcher for the choppa and the Dakka producer) it’s just a dream for me cause it’s also quicker, to do my 30 strong mobs of boys and grots

[@mightymouse3951]

Love this Jingles, definitely relaxing to watch.

[@davidrobinson4553]

They look good to a Philistine like me old chap and the first one was called Dave so that's me happy. The paints have come a long way since I abused my Airfix kits 😎

[@mike_aglione1132]

Pleaaaaaasse make this a regular series!

[@Panzermeister36]

Well you're rapidly learning that a lot of products in this hobby are kind of pointless as they can be simply made by thinning down other products... Contrast paint? ...just an acrylic wash...so just thin some acrylics, or buy a wash. Filter? ...just a wash...but that has been thinned down even more (90+% thinner) Streaking grime? ...that's just an enamel/oil paint that's been thinned down somewhat. Now, it can be said that for many people it is a little more convenient to be able to just open a bottle and start working, rather than mixing up a new wash every time you sit on the bench. But after a certain point, the "rebranding" can start to get a little ridiculous. Like how a contrast paint is just a wash, which they already sell. It's essentially the same product with a new label.

[@alexanderstraker69]

Poor Colin, written off again. Just can't catch a break 😂 Loving this by the way, please make more!

[@TheWuerstchenwasser]

Yay tank model is next. Are you also going to paint and/or also build aircraft and ship models by any chance? I would love me some good Spitfire or Yamato video. I really enjoy watching you paint models, it is for some reason even more calming and interesting to watch than most of your other videos except for Subnautica.

[@jefferyhill9808]

Kitty litter makes good stones and rocks for bases.

[@Shbyaa26]

Hey Jingles, in celebration of the year of the Rat, you should paint a Skaven!

[@boogerred9218]

FINALLY!!! A vid where I can watch paint dry....